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Technology for installing MDF panels on walls. How to glue MDF - features of installation work. Cladding with MDF panels

If your apartment has not been renovated for a long time, and the walls have lost their appearance – best replacement wallpaper or tiles will be MDF panels. They are ideal for interior decoration, as they have an attractive appearance and are made from environmentally friendly materials. pure materials. Besides, high-quality installation panels can be completed by anyone with basic technical and construction skills. Today we will talk about the features of finishing a room with MDF panels and provide step-by-step installation instructions.

What is MDF

MDF is a panel finishing material obtained from woodworking waste through dry hot pressing of fine chips. When heated, wood releases a substance called lignin, which acts as a glue. The structure of MDF resembles felt made from wood fibers. The main advantage of such panels is their high moisture resistance. As a result, they are often used for covering walls, floors and ceilings in rooms with high air humidity, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. However, due to its attractive appearance, such finishing is often found wide application in halls and offices. Surfaces lined with MDF in the corridor and loggia also look great. The cost of the material compared to tiles is low, and the walls will be perfectly smooth.

If you decide to install the panels yourself, then first you should prepare necessary tools and materials for work.

What you will need for installation

For high-quality MDF wall finishing you will need following materials and tools:

• Insulation (mineral wool, penofol, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). We'll look at each type in more detail a little later.
• MDF panels. There are many models that differ in thickness, color and structure, so the choice is yours.
• Slats or galvanized profiles for installing sheathing. Width and thickness – 40 and 20 mm, respectively. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall.
• Self-tapping screws are needed to fasten the panels to the sheathing.
• Kleimers – special elements necessary for fastening the panels to each other and the sheathing. Often available complete with panels.
• A plumb line is a nut or any other small metal object tied to a fishing line or thread.
• Building level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil or marker.
• Plane.
• Metal corner (metal square). Needed for cutting pieces of panels for slopes.
• An electric jigsaw is used to cut MDF. You can also use a hacksaw or circular saw. The latter, due to its compactness, is very convenient to use. It can cut both wood and metal - simply by changing the complete circles.
• Hammer drill with concrete drill.
• A screwdriver, drill or screwdriver with a screw attachment.

Toolkit in the photo

Preparing the walls

Preparing walls before installing sheathing

Before you start facing work, you need to make sure that the room is suitable for installing panels. If strong swelling of wallpaper, drywall, or peeling of plaster is visible on the walls, then you should first clean them of old finishing materials. Also, do not forget about baseboards and decorative corners (if any) used to hide the joints of walls and ceilings.

Helpful advice: It is advisable to remove the old finish completely, that is, up to the main wall. This way you will save on fasteners and reveal hidden surface damage.

When the walls are cleaned, you can proceed directly to installing the sheathing under the MDF panel, but first, let's find out what types of lathing there are.

Types of sheathing

The most popular technologies for installing MDF wall panels today are:

1. Wooden sheathing. This design is easy to make and does not require a large number of fasteners. However, wooden sheathing requires pre-impregnation. special means, in order to prevent the appearance of fungus, rot, and mold. If the room has high humidity, then you should not use wooden sheathing in this case.
2. Sheathing made of galvanized profiles. Often, metal structures are used as sheathing for drywall, although they are quite suitable for covering walls with MDF panels. But galvanized profiles are not suitable for forming a frame on the floor due to their low strength. As for the ceiling, a structure made of light metal rather than timber is just right here.

Installation

The installation of lattice structures made of metal and wood has several differences. For example, when using galvanized profiles, they should be fastened only with powerful and long self-tapping screws. Using dowel nails in this case does not make sense - the tenacity between the profile and the fastener itself will be lost.

Most important point, on which the strength of the fit of the fasteners and the entire structure depends, is the fixation of the body of the self-tapping screw or dowel-nail (with wooden sheathing) at least 35 mm in the wall. For example, if the thickness of the rail or profile is 20 mm, and the MDF panel is 10 mm, then the depth of the groove for the mounting socket and, accordingly, the fasteners should be about 65 mm, or preferably more. The diameter of the fasteners is selected from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the density of the wall. The stronger it is, the smaller the diameter of the screw should be. All fasteners are equipped with a special socket. When drilling a groove, the diameter must be compared with the diameter of the body of the socket, and not its head, otherwise the safety margin will be insufficient.

Installation of a wooden structure

Installation of wooden sheathing

We start with installation vertical racks. We install the slats in each corner in pairs - so that they form a right angle, as well as along the edges of the door and window openings along the entire height of the room. To ensure that the racks take an exactly vertical position, we use a plumb line. Now in order:

1. We apply the strip to the wall and outline it on either side with a pencil or marker.
2. We make holes for fasteners using a hammer drill with a concrete drill. For structural strength, the drilling pitch should be in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 m.
3. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into the holes and make marks of their location on the rack itself.
4. We drill holes in the rail with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting hole.
5. We install the racks in place using self-tapping screws or dowel nails.
6. We install horizontal bars in the same way. The step remains the same. Don't forget to decorate the slopes with slats.
7. At the end, we remove the ledge elements at the joints of the structure using a plane.

Fastening the metal base

The procedure for installing a structure made of galvanized profiles is completely similar to the above. First, the racks are placed in the corners of the room and in the places of openings for marking the walls. Afterwards, holes are made for fastening and installation of vertical profiles. UD type profiles are used as racks. In the marked places, horizontal profiles of the CD type are inserted into them in accordance with a step of 0.4–0.5 m. Afterwards, the transverse strips are attached to the racks and the wall. Elements between each other metal structure connected using ordinary self-tapping screws. As was said earlier, such a sheathing needs to be attached to the wall only with powerful fasteners (dowel-nails will not work).

Helpful advice: to cut metal profiles, it is recommended to use a grinder or a hand-held circular saw with an appropriate attachment. The efficiency of a jigsaw even with a metal file is much less.

About thermal insulation

Installation of insulation

The installation of the sheathing is complete, but before moving on to the installation of MDF panels, the walls should be insulated. This will allow you to save a lot on heating the room, and also increase its thermal insulation. In addition, insulation additionally prevents the formation of mold, mildew and moisture in the voids of the sheathing. It is recommended to fill the cells in the sheathing with one of the following insulation materials:

• Penofol is a relatively new multilayer insulation material that consists of polyethylene foam and polished foil with a reflectance coefficient of 97%. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, has good noise insulation and low vapor permeability.
• Mineral wool. The material has gained great popularity due to its high thermal insulation and moisture resistant properties.
• Styrofoam. Air is the best heat insulator, and this material consists of 98% of it. All this is thanks to the polystyrene granules that are formed in the foam during the production process. The material is different high performance moisture and vapor tightness.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. This type of foam is obtained by melting with extrusion. The seal is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. The material has excellent thermal insulation, as well as a high compression ratio. Therefore, it is often used to insulate floors.

Installation of this thermal insulation material very simple:

1. Sheets are cut from a roll of insulation in accordance with the cell sizes (lathing pitch).
2. After this, they are attached to the wall using construction foam or silicone glue.
3. The resulting protrusions of the polyurethane foam are removed using a utility knife.

After insulating the walls, we move on to the most interesting part - the technology of wall cladding with panels.

Installation of MDF panels

Installation of panels

Laying the product should start from the corner. The installation procedure is as follows:

1. We apply the panel to the corner and check whether it fits tightly to the sheathing. Then we evaluate the evenness of the surface using a building level.
2. If all is well, from the corner side along the entire height of the structure we fasten the panel with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
3. Subsequent strips are connected using clamps, which are inserted into the groove of the panel. It is advisable to fix these staples with nails to the sheathing.
4. We slide the ridge of the next one into the groove of the first corner panel. In this case, it is necessary to control the tightness of their fit. If cracks are found, you should slightly trim the ridge of one panel with a knife and try to put it in place again.
5. We attach the MDF plank to the sheathing using self-tapping screws along the entire height of the structure.
6. The installation process is then repeated.
7. The last panel must be pressed all the way to the penultimate one and secured at the free edge with self-tapping screws.

Important: If the last plank does not fit into the remaining space, you can still carefully shorten it in width using a jigsaw.

Slope finishing

This procedure is similar to installing panels. In addition, when finishing slopes, there are two decoration options. The first is to install the panel lengthwise, the second is to install it across. If the slope is small and its width does not exceed 1.8 times the width of the finishing panel, transverse cladding is performed. At wide slopes you can resort to any of the methods.

Helpful information: great view have slopes sheathed across, with alternating dark and light tones.

The finished look is given by fittings, thanks to which you can hide the corner joints between the panels. Folding corners cover the shortcomings well. WITH inside You need to apply glue to them and press the product tightly to the sheathing in the corner. To hide the joints with the floor and ceiling, you can use a plinth.

Video instructions for working with wall panels

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing MDF panels, and this work can be done without help construction foreman. We hope that our article will help you produce high-quality finishing premises that will not only insulate your home, but will also last for many years.

Wall or ceiling cladding different rooms, including loggias, is often performed using MDF panels. This material does not require a large number of components; its installation technology is quite simple. The range is represented by different types of panels, which differ in size, shade and texture.

More details about MDF material

To make a final decision for yourself which wall covering is best for DIY installation under certain conditions, you need to study information about the material: structure, properties, scope of application.

Dimensions, characteristics

MDF is a material made from carefully crushed wood (sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste). Wood dust is exposed to high temperatures and pressed. The binding agent in this case is paraffin and lignin.

Surface cladding is carried out with sheets and panels of different dimensions: length varies from 900 to 3660 mm; width from 150 to 2070 mm; thickness from 1.8 to 60 mm. Most formats are non-standard, which allows you to choose the right option.

The standard length dimensions are 2.6 m. Less common material is 2.4 m long, as well as 2.7 m. The value of the width parameter varies greatly: from 0.15 to 2.07 m.

Main characteristics:

• Environmental friendliness;
• Excellent strength properties;
• Long-term operation;
• High-quality panel surface;
• Soundproofing properties.

Where is it used?

MDF is used in construction (cladding walls, ceilings, doors), furniture production, automotive industry. For installation on loggias, a material is required that is resistant to temperature changes, humidity and ultraviolet radiation. MDF satisfies these criteria, especially moisture resistant sheet panels.

Preparing for work

Cladding the surfaces of the walls and ceiling of the loggia is carried out in several stages, the first of which is the preparation of the material. Sheet panels are transferred to the balcony so that they acquire required level humidity. This will avoid deformation of the MDF.

Tool

• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette
• Hacksaw for woodworking, metal scissors;
• Level.

Consumables you will need are wood screws, clamps and galvanized corners. And, polyurethane foam, sealant.

Auxiliary materials

Balcony finishing with MDF panels is carried out using components and materials:

• Any insulation from a number of existing ones (mineral wool, penofol, penoplex, etc.);
• Fasteners (nails, screws, clamps);
• Primer compositions for different materials (concrete, wood);
• Accessories for MDF;
• Wooden beams or special profiles for gypsum boards for lathing.

Room measurements and MDF calculation

Do-it-yourself finishing of walls and flow requires precise measurements premises. First of all, you need to determine the length and height of the walls. The number of panels can be determined by drawing up a diagram of their best location on the wall.

In this case, you need to form a pattern, and there should be as few seams as possible. The number of bars/profiles for the sheathing is determined based on the dimensions of the wall and a sketch that takes into account the distance between the guides (50 cm). The dimensions of the bars are selected taking into account surface unevenness (25x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 30-50 mm).

Step-by-step panel installation technology

Lathing allows you to create more robust construction. The advantage of this solution is that there is no need to specially level the surface of the walls. But the crumbling base (concrete, plaster) must be treated with a special compound that will strengthen it. For wood, other means are used - antiseptics.

Step 1: Selecting the type of frame and its installation

There are two types of lathing: wooden planks and metal profiles for gypsum boards. The first option will be cheaper, but it is susceptible to exposure to a humid environment. For this reason, it is better to install such a frame on a loggia that is well insulated. The metal counterpart is stronger and can withstand any operating conditions.

The distance between the two slats should be 40-50 centimeters. The bottom rail is attached at a distance of approximately 3-5 cm from the floor.

Procedure for installing the sheathing:

1. The highest point of unevenness is determined, this is where the first plank needs to be attached;
2. On the remaining surface of the wall you will have to lay edged material;
3. If the wall is flat, the installation of horizontal guides is carried out from below, after which the top bar is installed, and then the crossbars;
4. The distance from the floor and ceiling is 3-5 cm.

The wooden frame is fastened using dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. For metal, anchors and metal screws are used.

Step 2: Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation is laid between the sheathing strips. Its thickness must correspond to the height of the frame, otherwise the sheet panels will be deformed. For installation between the sheathing guides, almost any insulation is used: mineral wool

, penoplex, foam plastic.

The insulation is simply placed in the cells of the frame. If sheet panels are glued to the surface of the walls, thermal insulation with increased strength is used.

Step 3: Attaching the MDF

Finishing the balcony with MDF panels is carried out using different types of fasteners: self-tapping screws, clamps, installation with glue. If an adhesive is used, it is recommended to use moisture resistant materials, which are also universal and suitable for attaching material to different types surfaces (concrete, plaster).

Detailed step-by-step instruction

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Alignment of loggia walls;
2. Thorough cleaning and degreasing;
3. Primer;
4. Applying glue.

For attaching MDF to wooden frame wood screws are used. They are installed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the edge of the panel. This will allow you to hide the screw heads under the corners and baseboards.

Step 4: Connection and fastening to clamps

On the tenon side, MDF is secured with self-tapping screws. If the panel rests on the corner of the wall, the connecting element must be cut off. The next panel is attached not only by snapping into the groove, but also by using glue. The connecting element is glued. The clamps also securely fix the sheet panels.

A clamp is attached to the side of the MDF panel where the groove is located. Next, it is fixed with self-tapping screws on the rail.

When moving to another wall, the material is cut at 45 degrees (from the groove side), the next panel is cut at 45 degrees from the tenon side. The last panel is rounded at the end.

Slope finishing

MDF can be installed along and across the slope. The preferred option is determined by its width. For a narrow slope, it is better to choose a transverse installation of the material. For the purpose of finishing corner areas and cracks, special corners, profiles, and plinths have been created. With their help you can hide any leaks. The components are cut and installed using adhesive.

So the finishing MDF ceiling panels or other surface (walls, slopes, parapet) is made different ways: with glue, with self-tapping screws, nails and with lathing. The first option is the least reliable and requires maximum effort: leveling the walls of the loggia, cleaning, degreasing, priming

MDF panels have become widespread not only due to their low cost and environmental friendliness. Do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels is not difficult; it requires only basic care and precision. Create a covering from MDF with good decorative qualities Perhaps, without being a carpenter or finisher, the skills of a home craftsman are sufficient.

What is MDF?

MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - English, HDF - German) is made from wood waste. But they should not be confused with fiberboard or chipboard. MDF is made by dry hot pressing of wood, without a binder. The essence of this method is that microscopic tubes and lignin fibers, of which wood is composed, under high pressure and temperature become plastic, as if steamed, interlock and stick together. The structure of MDF is similar to felt, but not from wool, but from wood fibers.

MDF is not special mechanical properties, but, due to the absence of a chemical binder, are absolutely environmentally friendly. For interior finishing of MDF – perfect option. The techniques for working with MDF are the same as for wood. MDF is glued with any wood glue. An adhesive composition called “Liquid Nails” has been developed especially for MDF - a construction adhesive filled with sawdust, allowing you to both glue and putty cracks and seal holes with screw heads.

Note: MDF panels are produced with a decorative outer coating. When purchasing liquid nails, make sure that the tone of the hardened composition matches the tone of the MDF panels used. A sample is a frozen drop on the lid of a jar, or from the seller.

Tool for the job

Besides the usual home tool you will need a plumb line (it’s easy to make it yourself from a nut, fishing line or thread), a tape measure, building level and a drill attachment for driving self-tapping screws. You can do without a special screwdriver. You also need a bench square (metal, with legs of different thicknesses). It will be convenient to cut pieces for slopes using it: the thick leg is used as a stop, and leaning on the thin leg, they make the cut.

To cut MDF you need a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. The saw is good for its compactness, convenience - it is similar in size and shape to a hair clipper - and versatility. By changing complete circles, you can cut wood, metal, stone. But a saw with a cutting depth of more than 12 mm or more costs more expensive than a jigsaw; The thickness of MDF is 16 mm.

Installation technologies

Important: if the room for finishing MDF has been damp at least once, if traces of weeds, swelling or peeling of the plaster are noticeable, if the plaster is lumpy, uneven or its layer is more than 12 mm, then before MDF finishing The plaster must be removed to the main wall. In any case, it is advisable to remove the plaster - this will reduce the cost of fastening and allow you to identify hidden defects in the walls. Of course, the baseboards also need to be removed.

Two technologies for installing MDF wall panels are used:

1. On wooden sheathing;
2. On a frame made of special galvanized profiles.

Wooden sheathing is easier to make; it requires less hardware for fastening, but wooden slats, or even slabs, are more expensive metal frame. In addition, wooden sheathing requires preliminary impregnation against fungus, rot and mold. In damp areas and in brick houses It is definitely not recommended to use wooden sheathing: moisture and fungal spores can penetrate from the outside simply through the pores of the brick, and the cavities between the cladding and the wall are an ideal environment for the development of pests.

For a metal frame you will need UD (guides) and CD profiles. Both of them are U-shaped and differ only in their cross-sectional configuration. Sellers often offer mounting end switches (“ears”) and connectors for the CD profile. Their use makes sense when performing a large volume of work in limited period. If you are decorating one or two rooms yourself, you can do without them. How will be described below.

Read more about lathing and its methods here.

About thermal insulation

In the process of finishing a room with MDF panels, it makes sense to additionally insulate it by filling the cells of the sheathing with polystyrene foam. construction foam or silicone. The foam protrusions are cut off with a mounting knife.

In addition to the insulation itself, this will provide additional protection against the accumulation of condensation in voids and the development of wood pests. MDF is the same wood, and is also susceptible to their effects, although to a lesser extent.

In the summer, when the building warms up, the heat flow into the room will decrease significantly. Just MDF on a frame - a single heat shield with a reflectivity of approximately 0.25. With a layer of foam - double screen. The reflection coefficient of foam is more than 0.7; accordingly, no more than (1 – 0.7) x (1 – 0.25) = 0.225 heat will enter the room through the walls compared to the previous one. The outflow of heat through the walls in winter will be reduced by the same amount.

Considering that heat exchange through the walls is at least 0.15 of the total heat flow, you can count on reducing heating/air conditioning costs by at least 10%, and this is a significant amount in the budget at current tariffs.

If you are planning more serious internal thermal insulation, read more about it at the link.

Lathing

Fasteners for sheathing

The wooden sheathing is attached to the wall either with self-tapping screws or assembly nails(dowel-nails). A dowel-nail is similar to a self-tapping screw with a smooth, asymmetrical thread profile. It is driven into a plastic socket with a hammer. The head of the dowel-nail has a slot for a screwdriver, so it can be unscrewed if necessary. The metal sheathing is secured only with self-tapping screws.

To fasten the sheathing, fasteners with a diameter of 4-6 mm are used. The stronger base wall, the smaller the required diameter. Each self-tapping screw or dowel-nail is supplied with plastic socket. Holes in the wall for fasteners must be drilled to the diameter of the socket body; elastic protrusions are not taken into account. The nest is hammered into the hole with light blows of a hammer.

The body of the fastening element (nail, self-tapping screw) must sit in main wall no less than 30-40 mm. For example, if the thickness of the plaster layer is 12 mm and a 40 mm thick lath or profile is used for the lathing, the MDF thickness is 16 mm, then the length of the hardware must be at least 12 + 40 + 16 = 68 mm. Those. fasteners need a length of 70-80 mm. The depth of the holes for the nests is equal to the length of the nest + 15-20 mm for dust and crumbs. In this case – 100 mm. If the drill is longer, a stop tube should be placed on it. But don’t drill too deep: the thickness of the walls between rooms can be half a brick, which is less than 200 mm with two layers of plaster.

Wooden sheathing

We begin the wooden sheathing by installing vertical posts. We place the racks in all corners, in pairs, so that they form an angle, and along the edges of window and doorways from floor to ceiling. We check the verticality of the racks with a plumb line.

Having attached the stand, we outline it on one side with a pencil along the wall and drill holes for fasteners with a drill in concrete or stone in increments of 500-700 mm. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into them, and mark their position on the rack with a pencil. Then we drill holes in the rack with a diameter of 2/3 of the diameter of the fasteners and attach them in place. For more experienced craftsmen– the holes in the racks are drilled in advance, and the holes in the wall are marked directly through them.

Next, in a similar way, we install horizontal logs with the same pitch. Each piece of lag is fixed at the same pitch as the stand. We make sure to install logs along the top of the openings and under the window sills, regardless of whether they are “one step” or not. We also decorate the slopes of the openings with slats, along the inner and outer edges, without crossbars. The final stage– remove the ledges at the joints of the slats with a plane.

Note: When lathing the ceiling, keep in mind that the MDF panels are located along the racks and across the joists. That is, if the sheathing panels on the ceiling will be located along its short side, then the ceiling sheathing should be made parallel to its long side, and vice versa.

Metal sheathing

Metal sheathing is made in a similar way: racks in the corners and openings, then crossbars. The pitch of the sheathing is the same as that of wood. The racks are made from UD profiles; CD profiles are inserted into them and pushed into place. Then the CD, after alignment with a level and a tape measure for horizontality and pitch, is attached to the UD, and then to the wall, into holes pre-drilled in it.

The parts of the metal sheathing are connected to each other with short self-tapping screws. The CD is also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Dowel-nails cannot be used: the fasteners will either not be finished or the profile will be bent. The CD profile pieces are pre-connected to each other to the required length.

Note: It is better to carry out work on metal sheathing using a small grinder or a manual one circular saw. With a jigsaw, even with a metal file, the work takes longer and a lot of waste results.

"Ears" and connectors

The “ears” of the CD are made like this: at the ends of the mounting pieces of the stick “P” we cut off the width UD to the crossbar plus 2-3 mm. The cut should be made slightly obliquely, so that from the ends of the “sticks” to the edge of the profile there is also 2-3 mm more than from the crossbar. With a straight or reverse bevel cut, the CD may get stuck during installation. “Ears” will be needed if the sheathing is made only from CD. If the racks are made of UD, then the CDs simply slide into them.

For CD connectors, we pre-measure a piece of it of the required length. One connector requires 100-120 mm of profile. If, for example, you need 10 connectors, they will take 1 - 1.2 m CD. The CD's "P" sticks are not straight, but curved inward. It is this bend that needs to be cut off by the same 2-3 mm. Then we cut the workpiece into required quantity pieces.

The CD is connected like this: the connector piece is pushed halfway into one of the profile pieces being connected, and the other piece is pushed over the rest. The connector, of course, will fit; There may be a small gap between the pieces being joined. This is not scary; this will not slow down the cladding work and will not make it more difficult.

Sometimes it is recommended to additionally secure the connection with self-tapping screws; this is unnecessary. During installation, it is already held quite tightly due to friction. In the future, the connector will not fall out - the wall will not let it - and will not slide to the side, because inserted with spacer.

Note: for communications - pipes, wiring in wooden slats or metal sheathing profiles, grooves are cut in place. Before lathing, it is necessary to measure the height to which the communications protrude above the wall, and choose the thickness of the sheathing elements 5-10 mm more.

MDF paneling

Striker and Claimers

MDF panels are connected to each other by a symmetrical tongue-and-groove lock in the form of a ridge and a corresponding groove. MDF panels can be attached to a wooden sheathing with small nails, driving them diagonally into the corner of the groove. The nails are finished off with a metal striker and a hammer. It is similar to a metal punch, only at its narrow end, instead of a point, there is a shallow depression along the head of the nail. A nail striker can be made from a center punch by removing the point on an emery wheel and carefully drilling it into drilling machine deepening

For fastening to a metal sheathing (and to a wooden one when working according to the standard scheme), gluers are used. Claymer is a small metal bracket to the hole for the fastener and the teeth that press the shelf of the groove of the tongue. The gluer is inserted into the groove of the MDF panel until it stops, and secured with a self-tapping screw. Fastening with gluers is more expensive and requires more labor, but it is more reliable, and if necessary, the cladding can be disassembled without damaging the MDF.

Installation of panels

Installing MDF panels on the sheathing is much simpler than the preparatory work:

• We start from the corner. We cut the required number of MDF panels to size to cover the mounting plane to the nearest rack. We go over the corners of the cuts once (“widen”) with sandpaper.
• On the first panel, we cut off the tongue and groove and secure it in the corner with nails (on a wooden sheathing) or small screws (on a metal one). From the groove side of the lock we secure it with nails or gluers.
• Place the next panel, slide the ridge into the groove, fasten it along the groove, etc., until two remain last panels.
• We cut the last panel to length to size, with an edge of 2-5 mm, depending on what corner or plinth will be used for the final finishing.
• Cut the ridge of the last panel in half and round it.
• We insert the last two panels into place “housewise” and press until they “click”.
• We push the last panel all the way onto the penultimate one; At the free edge we secure it with self-tapping screws.

Note 5:“The last two” is a responsible operation and requires some skills. It is advisable to first practice on MDF samples. If the training “house” jams, you can pry it off at the joint with a screwdriver.

Slope finishing

Finishing slopes with MDF panels is done in the same way, but two options are possible: pieces of MDF panels along and across the slope. If the slope is narrow, less than 1.8 times the width of the MDF panel, then it definitely needs to be sheathed across. With wide slopes, the choice of cladding method is a matter of taste. Slopes sheathed across alternately with pieces of dark and light colors look good. In general, it is at the discretion of the master and his family.

Corners and crevices

There are no difficulties here: there are many corners and skirting boards for MDF on sale different profiles, standard sizes and tones. Installation comes down to cutting to size, rounding corners, sanding the sections with sandpaper and gluing liquid nails or any wood glue.

Video: DIY installation of MDF panels on walls

In contact with

This information is intended for those who want to quickly and cheaply decorate MDF walls on their own, or for those who simply want to broaden their horizons. By studying this article, you will understand that finishing it yourself is not very difficult. After all, the installation is alternately painted and shown in the form of photographs.

MDF material is wood waste (shavings) mixed with a special adhesive solution and put under pressure.

This structure of the material makes it similar to boards, but at the same time is significantly different. For example, heat processing of wood waste in the production of particle boards allows avoiding the addition of various resins and other negative chemical compounds to the gluing mixture.

Despite this, they have excellent technical performance, as a result of which they are widely in demand today.

Let's take a closer look

Interestingly, this material is used for finishing works all surfaces, from ceiling to floor. On the other side, this type materials are much more common in various administrative premises and in public places. Perhaps people do not use it for their home due to the lack of home warmth and comfort of this material.

Advantages of MDF

The advantages of this finishing material include several qualities.

• One of the main advantages is the ease and accessibility of installation.
• As a result, to carry it out it is not necessary to have this process.
• In addition, installation of this material does not require special preparation of the wall surface, since installation is the final point.
• It is also worth noting that during the installation process there is not a lot of dirt and dust.
• Repairs, including dismantling the damaged panel and installing a new one, are quite simple and will not take much time.
• Today, there are also requirements for heat and sound insulation, which for this finishing material is quite good.
• As for caring for them, it is very simple; for example, you just need to wash them with warm water.
• Don’t forget about the long service life combined with the environmental friendliness of the material.
• And finally, it’s worth saying a few words about the texture and color of MDF panels, which is quite wide and imitates different materials from wood to stone.
• At the same time, the cost of this type of material varies widely.

Flaws

Along with the advantages, they also have some disadvantages. For example, this finishing material,

• not very resistant to high humidity, and becomes deformed. At the same time, manufacturers are working on this drawback, and now there are special moisture-resistant particle boards that are intended for finishing rooms such as the kitchen and bathroom. This material is also suitable for finishing a house or cottage.
• It is also worth noting the low strength, which is less than that of other finishing materials, in particular laminate. So, a strong enough blow from the ball may well deform our finishing slab.
• And finally, this finishing material burns well; therefore, experts recommend placing electrical wiring in special protective boxes (fire-resistant).

Installation

The installation process will require equipment such as special wiring boxes, a screwdriver, edge profiles, gluers, screws, and so on. In general, the installation process does not require special skills, but knowing the little tricks will allow you to carry it out as efficiently as possible.

Preparation for installation

• And so, before you start finishing, it’s worth removing wallpaper that is swollen or simply does not hold tightly.
• After that, treat the surface of the walls with a special raster primer. The fact is that this solution prevents the proliferation of fungi, which often appear in voids.
• To increase the thermal insulation of walls, you can use insulation and cover all the walls with it. Some types, for example, are mounted on the wall using adhesive solution, while the thickness of the insulation can be 0.5 cm. As a rule, such insulation materials glued end to end. It is worth noting that the sparkling side of the insulation is glued directly inside.

Installation of MDF wall panels

Let's look at the first example of finishing, in which they are installed in a standard bullfighting room three-room apartment, V multi-storey building. Considering the fact that there are no external walls, additional insulation not required. Installation work must begin from the ceiling.

• To determine the lowest angle in the room, you should use a building level and draw a horizontal line exactly 5 cm below, which will directly determine the position of the upper UD profile.
• To attach it you should use quick installation. Sometimes wooden slats are used as a frame, but this is not always effective. The fact is that if the wood is even slightly damp, then for some time it can become deformed during the drying process.

• Next comes the stage of attaching the suspensions to the ceiling surface, and they should be approximately 60 - 70 cm apart from each other. To attach them, you can also use quick installation, the parameters of which range from 4 to 6 cm. Of course, before this you should do the necessary holes on top.

• After that, the SD profile is mounted on the suspensions.

Interestingly, such a base allows you to install any type of finishing materials such as plastic, plasterboard or chipboard. As for slabs made of compressed sawdust, it is better to use clamps and screws for their installation.

Remember, first lay out all communications (electrical wiring, etc.), and only then install the panels.

• On one side the material should be attached with self-tapping screws, and the other end is fixed with gluers. Interestingly, the gluers are attached to the frame using bugs. By following this technology, you can quickly and easily cover the entire surface of the ceiling.

• If you want to mount spotlight, then a hammer drill with special crowns will help you with this, which will make the necessary hole in this panel.

• Next comes the turn of lighting fixtures, the installation of which is described in more detail by their manufacturer.

• As for the installation of wall panels, you should not forget about special boxes for electrical wiring.

• The next step is to create the base of the frame. Here again you can use hangers that are fixed on the surface of the walls.
• And the SD profile is already installed on them.
• The top and them are directly separated by the UD profile.

As for the location of the horizontal profile, you should focus on those places that are most often exposed to impact, for example, in the area of ​​the knee, shoulder, and so on. The distance between this profile should be maintained at 60-70 cm.

Wall decoration consists of several stages. Installation of MDF on walls will require preliminary selection necessary materials. Technology MDF installation panels on the walls are quite simple, if you follow the tips and recommendations. Everyone can arrange a room.

Every person wants to have stylish and comfortable housing to emphasize their individuality and create a unique atmosphere.

Description of MDF wall panels

Installation of MDF boards on walls can be done correctly, quickly and cheaply, without putty, primer, painting or wallpapering. Minimum construction waste, stylish and practical.

Wall panels have been known for more than 10 years on the Russian market. During this period, their popularity has not subsided.

The advantages of using MDF panels are:

• wide selection of sizes and textures, glossy and matte;
• low cost;
• excellent quality;
• environmental friendliness of the materials from which the panels are made;
• optimally suitable sizes;
• ease of adaptation for premises of any configuration;
• Possibility of attachment to wooden and metal sheathing;
• indicators of mechanical, thermal and ultraviolet resistance;
• long service life without loss of its original appearance;
• resistance to tobacco smoke;
• ease of cleaning and washing;
• ease of installation if you need to mount MDF panels on the wall. You can repair a room in half a day, without dust, dirt, preliminary work and large number special tools.

This building material Suitable for both dry and wet areas. Even when exposed to moisture, MDF furniture will not become covered with mold or mildew. Mounting it in wood will also be an advantageous way to decorate the surface.

There is a wide variety of MDF panel designs:

• matte;

• glossy;

Large format ceramic slab effect

Some tile panels small size. I alternate tiles, different in texture and color, so you can lay out different patterns of any level of complexity.

Visually this will achieve the effect ceramic tiles large format.

Thanks to the panels with dimensions of 120 by 80 cm, it is possible to cover the panels faster. By studying the recommendations, you can give the modules an excellent appearance.

The difference between wall panels is noted by such indicators as:

• dimensions;
• texture;
• thickness;
• color;
• fastening principles.

At correct execution works can be created perfect interior. Interior decoration walls with natural materials are now in trend. However natural materials quite expensive, and working with them is labor-intensive. Therefore, synthetic materials are widely used.

Thanks to high quality they are difficult to distinguish from natural analogues. MDF panels repeat the texture natural wood, create the appearance of a wooden covering.

At the same time, they are easy to wash and clean. And the installation process is characterized by simplicity and speed of work. It is necessary to cut the panels to the required length and secure them to the frame.

MDF is resistant to moisture. about moisture-resistant MDF for walls. There are special corners to match the color of the panels; they can change shape. With them you can build a platband, internal or outside corners. This kind of material used to give the interior a finished look. You can learn how to install MDF panels on walls from the recommendations.

If the installation is carried out in winter time, you must first hold Wall panels several days indoors for them to regain their size. When choosing panels, keep in mind that the narrower they are, the longer the work will take, but there will be less scrapping.

It is necessary to determine how much smooth walls. If the level shows good data, then there is no need to make a wooden sheathing.

You can simply glue them to the cement using special glue. If the walls are not level, you will need to do lathing.

This situation is more common. What materials will be needed for it? The sheathing is made from soft wood. Preliminarily think about what kind of sheathing will be. In dry rooms it is better to use wood, and in wet rooms - metallic profile. It is necessary to select fasteners based on the same parameters.

Self-tapping screws - if a metal profile is used, fasteners made from wood screws or staples, if you need to work on a wooden sheathing. In the space of walls and sheathings you can lay a layer of heat or sound insulation.

How to attach the MDF panel to the wall:

• with lathing;
• without sheathing.

How to attach and install - installation

We mount the sheathing to the surface of the batten

You need to start work from the corner. Laying must be done tightly. The thin part faces towards the corner. The fastening is performed on the surface of the rail.

You can successfully install MDF panels on the wall with your own hands if you prepare slats with a cross-section of 20 by 40 mm. They will need to be secured using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

The location of the slats must be perpendicular to the direction of the panels that will be mounted. In order to mount the sheathing elements, we adhere to an interval of 40 - 50 cm.

Using the mounting level, we constantly check the evenness of the installed slats. If the wall surface turns out to be uneven, it is necessary to level the sheathing using such building materials, How:

• plywood;
• beam;
• assembly adhesive.

Used to secure the surface long screws or dowel - nails. This will depend on what materials the walls are made of. Also constantly monitor this process by measuring the evenness of the surface using a level.

The bottom of the slatted sheathing should be located taking into account a distance of 3 - 5 cm from the floor. This will allow you to successfully secure the floor plinth in the future.

At the top, the sheathing is mounted at ceiling level.

• the sheathing is attached in different positions:
• in the corners;
• along the window opening.

If work is carried out where there is a high level of humidity, it is advisable to install elements plastic sheathing or made of metal. You can watch a video on how to install MDF panels on a wall surface. If you use the “groove-to-groove” fastening method, over time you can easily disassemble the structure.

Installation and installation technology of the first panel

For execution installation work To install MDF panels on walls, you need to start from the corner:

• attach the first panel;
• We check the level;
• We fix the panel with self-tapping screws to the slats along the entire height.

A thematic video from the Internet will tell you how to attach MDF to the wall.

How to attach to the sheathing

In order to fasten MDF panels to the wall sheathing, clamps are used - special type staples.

The clamps are pushed into the cavity of the panel groove and secured using a construction stapler.

It is best to use nails. Constant care must be taken not to damage the edges of the panel.

To avoid this, use pliers. We install the remaining panels. The crest of the panel that will be next in the row is inserted into the grooves of the panel that is already installed.

A video about installing MDF panels on a wall can be viewed before starting work. Next you need to attach it to the sheathing and carry out the same work in the required quantity.

The last panel next to the wall may not be the right size. If necessary, you can cut MDF panels with a jigsaw or wood saw.

Cutting it out will not be difficult, the main thing is to correctly measure the part that will be cut. This way they will be the right length. By following the instructions in the instructions on how to attach MDF to the wall, you can do such work yourself. We install the fittings.

In order for the MDF wall mount interior to look like a finished product, it is necessary to install MDF fittings. You can close the joints using a folding corner.

Apply glue to the surface of the inside and press firmly to corner panels. After completing the finishing work using MDF panels, the appearance of the walls will change significantly.

How to secure without wooden guides

You can attach mdfc panels to the wall without lathing. In this case, the lower part of the panel must be clamped between the wall and the plywood. Top part must be inserted into starting profile. It is screwed to the top panel.

To be able to further secure the structure, you need to make another hole in the middle to secure the panel. MDF fastening panels to the wall without slats is done using wooden choppers and self-tapping screws with caps.

The panel will fit perfectly tightly to the wall, and you will be able to save at least 4 cm of space if you install the MDF panel on walls without lathing.

For additional fixation of the panel to the wall, professional mounting foam is used. The foam will not be destroyed under the panel, since it does not get there. sun rays. Spray the top and bottom of the surfaces with foam. The fastening of MDF boards to the wall must be reliable.

The panel is glued, and one additional screw is added in the middle. about how to glue MDF to the wall. This will be quite enough. The strength and durability of the entire structure depends on how you can attach the MDF to the wall.

For more information about installing MDF panels on walls, watch the video:

How to attach a plinth - installation methods

MDF plinth can be attached to the wall in several ways:

• on self-tapping screws;

• mark the place of cutting;
• make a cut;
• apply glue;
• press against the wall with force;
• install the corner element.

Most often, the baseboard in an apartment matches the platband, this gives the structure an unesthetic appearance. To sharp corners do not spoil the appearance of the baseboard, you need to file the corners, turning them inward.

Do-it-yourself MDF mounting on walls in the kitchen

Can be installed attractively with wall mount. Panels with photo printing are perfect.

Compared to aprons made from other materials, it can be installed directly in the kitchen, adjusting all technological dimensions during the installation process.

The panel needs to be marked and, if necessary, holes cut for electrical outlets. On a flat surface panel MDF is glued using liquid nails.

Gives the room beautiful view. Installation of apron and additional elements carried out quickly and with minimal construction waste.

conclusions

Practical and environmentally friendly MDF panels are widely in demand in modern construction. They are made by pressing wood dust in a vacuum. In this case, the color of natural wood of various shades is achieved.

If you learn in detail how to mount MDF panels on a wall, You can radically change the appearance of any room in the house. Installation of MDF panels on walls, the price of which will depend on the quality of the selected materials and volumes necessary work, more profitable than working with natural materials.

You can learn how to install MDF panels on the wall from the video. This material is so easy to use that work can be done quickly and efficiently.