Why drill holes for self-tapping screws or how to easily screw in a self-tapping screw. A simple way to screw in long self-tapping screws without drilling. What is the self-tapping screw screwed into?
This article is intended primarily for those who do not have knowledge in the field of construction and repair, but the situation is such that they have to do everything themselves. Now we will talk about how to perform such a construction operation as tightening a self-tapping screw.
Of course, every man knows how to do this, but as mentioned above, some have never encountered this at all, and we are primarily talking about women. We will try to tell you in as much detail as possible about how this is done in relation to various materials and we hope our story will help you in the future.
Self-tapping screws are a fairly common type of fastener. They are used to fasten parts made of various materials: metal, wood, Chipboard etc. In everyday life, various shelves and hanging drawers are attached to self-tapping screws, and of course they are screwed in by the hundreds when making repairs. If we are talking about furniture, then almost any cabinet or sofa has self-tapping screws, or they are often used to repair old furniture.
In our article we will look at the topic of screwing self-tapping screws into walls made of brick, concrete and wall blocks for hanging boxes or shelves, as well as the features of screwing this fastener into various softer materials.
An example of screwing in self-tapping screws for hanging a shelf on the wall
For this work we will need screws, dowels, a pencil, a screwdriver, a hammer, a drill, a drill and a building level, tape measures or a metal meter.
To begin with, we determine the attachment points for the shelf or drawer. Having selected them using building level draw a line along the horizon. If this is not done, the box will hang crookedly and the load will be concentrated on one screw. As a result, it may not hold up and jump out of the attachment point. Using a ruler, measure the distance between the points where the screws will be drilled. Mark the drilling points with a pencil.
If the wall consists of separate blocks and bricks, it is necessary to control, if possible, that the points do not fall on the seams or, even worse, on the junction of brick and mortar. In the first case, the screw with the dowel will not hold so well, and in the second, during drilling, the drill will move to the side and the distance between the screws screwed into the wall will change. The result is that the fasteners on the drawer or shelf will not fit into the places where the drilled screws are.
Next, we begin drilling holes for the screws. Usually, in everyday life, standard wood screws ranging in size from 3.5x40 to 4x60 mm are sufficient. Fits them big number plastic dowels 6 mm thick and various lengths. We choose a dowel of the same length as the self-tapping screw, or a little longer. To drill the walls, we will use a standard 6 mm drill with a Pobedit tip. Set the drill to impact drilling mode and start drilling.
The drill should be positioned so that the drill bit is perpendicular to the surface. We make the depth of the hole approximately 5 mm greater than the length of the dowel. Having finished drilling, hammer a dowel into the resulting hole using a hammer. The end of the dowel after driving should be flush with the wall surface.
After that, use a screwdriver to screw the self-tapping screw inside the dowel. The screwdriver is selected depending on the screw head: Phillips or flat. During the tightening process, it is necessary to press the screwdriver firmly against the head of the screw. It is necessary to tighten with smooth force in a clockwise direction. Having twisted the self-tapping screw 90-180 degrees, the screwdriver is usually removed from the head and returned to its original position and the movement is repeated. Gradually the screw tightens. Everything is easy and simple.
If you have a tool such as a screwdriver, then the process of screwing a self-tapping screw into a wall is generally a matter of a few seconds.
In conclusion, we note that if you are going to hang a shelf or cabinets on screwed screws, then you should not screw them completely into the wall. It is necessary that there is a distance of 4-7 mm between the head of the screw and the wall.
Features of screwing self-tapping screws into various materials
In this part of the article we also want to talk about the features of screwing self-tapping screws, or individual types of them, into such types of materials as plastic, wood, metal, etc. We think this information will not be superfluous, given that we have so far only talked about how self-tapping screws are attached to stone materials.
If we are talking about such a durable material as metal, then it has its own characteristics. Depending on the thickness of the metal of the structure, the choice of the type of self-tapping screw depends primarily. If you have a structure made of corrugated pipes, then the wall thickness can be from 1.5 to 3 mm, and if the self-tapping screw needs to be wrapped in a thin-walled chrome tube, the wall thickness is generally from 0.5 mm.
How to tighten a self-tapping screw with a drill
In relatively thick metal, drill bits are usually selected with a drill bit. Classic example These are roofing screws.
It is impossible to tighten a self-tapping screw with a drill using a screwdriver, or rather, it is possible, but additional drilling will be required and the screwing speed will be one self-tapping screw every 5 - 10 minutes, which most likely will not suit you. If you have a screwdriver with the required attachment, then such self-tapping screws can be tightened very quickly.
In the process of tightening self-tapping screws with a drill, it is necessary to constantly ensure that the screwdriver constantly presses with the required force on the self-tapping screw and the drilling point. If you loosen the force, the screw will fall out of the nozzle and you will waste time. Don't press too hard on the screw. The longer the self-tapping screw, the easier it is to tilt to the side during drilling and tightening.
It is also important in the process of tightening screws with a drill to maintain constant speed rotation. If this is not done, the drill on the self-tapping screw will become dull faster than drilling a hole for the thread.
Screwing the self-tapping screw into a thin metal pipe
A similar operation is required in cases where you need to rigidly connect a metal pipe with other parts.
First of all, you need to drill holes in the pipe for the screws. To do this, having marked the drilling points, we clamp the pipe in a vice and, having marked the drilling point, we make a hole 1.5 - 2 mm in diameter less than the self-tapping screw. The punching is done so that the drill does not slip, because the surface of the pipe is curved and not flat.
After that, take a self-tapping screw and screw it on the required part to the pipe. For this purpose, pointed self-tapping screws with frequent threads are used. The more often the thread, the better, because it is due to it that the fastening will hold.
We tighten the self-tapping screw slowly and carefully until the head rests against the surface of the part and you are sure that the part fits snugly to the pipe.
If you twist the screw even half a turn, the hole in the pipe will flare out and the screw will not hold. This can only be corrected by replacing the screw with a thicker one, which is not always possible, or by drilling new holes.
We screw the self-tapping screw into the wood
If you need to tighten the screw more soft material, for example wood, plastic, fiberboard, etc., then pre-drilling with a drill is required. The hole should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw (the diameter is taken along the outer part of the thread), otherwise the screw will not stick to the material.
The self-tapping screw, when twisted into a relatively soft material, partially pushes it apart and if not drilled, the part may simply split or crack. This is especially important for small-sized parts. Additionally, you position the self-tapping screw in this way at the desired point and it will definitely not go to the side.
If the position of the screw is not very important (for example, when finishing works), then you can twist it right away, the main thing is that it is not very long and has sparse threads. A long self-tapping screw can simply create such friction during tightening that it either stops turning until it is fully tightened, or even breaks off (usually it breaks either in the middle, or the head of the screw breaks off).
Unlike nails, which fasten wooden parts by compressing the nail shaft with wood, screws and self-tapping screws have a screw thread. This same thread does not allow the screw or self-tapping screw to freely exit the body of the wood, and in addition, the thread significantly increases the contact area of the screw or self-tapping screw with the wood. Therefore, even if you drill a hole of the same diameter as a self-tapping screw, then load bearing capacity the screw that is screwed in will, of course, decrease slightly, but at the same time, the internal stresses in the wood after tightening the screw will also decrease much more, which means that it will be much easier to tighten the screw and the risk of splitting wood, chipboard or other material will be significantly reduced.
2.
The process of wood deformation under the influence of force when tightening a self-tapping screw is very complex. Wood is a heterogeneous material and the strength of wood very much depends on the point at which the load is applied, the presence of knots, the type of wood, etc. Wood has minimal strength at the junction of the fibers, so usually the tip of the self-tapping screw falls between the fibers of the wood, and it is almost impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw, as well as drill a hole in the wood with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter. Fortunately, there is usually no such need. For household purposes, an error of 0.5-1.5 mm is quite normal.
3.
Any screw or self-tapping screw has a certain volume, and when we screw a screw or screw into wood, we are thereby trying to reduce the volume of wood by the volume of the screw. No miracle happens. The volume of wood is partially reduced due to wood collapse, i.e. due to inelastic deformations. Moreover, the duller the screw or self-tapping screw (and self-tapping screws can also be dull), the greater the proportion of inelastic deformations that occur under the tip of the screw, which means that you need to apply more pressure on the self-tapping screw or self-tapping screw to produce these deformations. Part of the volume is released due to splitting of wood along the fibers, while a gap appears between the fibers, or, scientifically speaking, a crack. The width of the crack opening depends not only on the factors listed in paragraph 2, but also on the geometric dimensions of the product and the point of application of the load. The larger the geometric parameters of the product and the closer the point of screwing in the self-tapping screw to the center of gravity of the section, the smaller the width of the crack opening, and this means, again, more effort must be applied to tighten the self-tapping screw or screw in such a place. And the smaller the width and height of the product and the closer the place where the screw is screwed in is to the edge, the greater the likelihood that the product will not just crack, but also split, and then it will be very easy to tighten the screw or screw, but there will be no benefit from such a self-tapping screw or screw, but only one complete harm. The remaining volume for the screw to be screwed in is released due to elastic deformations. The distribution of internal stresses in the body of wood during elastic deformations leads to the appearance of cracks. A similar situation is observed when screwing self-tapping screws into parts made of chipboard or OSB. small sizes, particle boards or oriented strand boards have less strength than wood.
4.a.
Thus, when we screw a screw or self-tapping screw into wood without preliminary drilling, we must constantly overcome the strength limit of the wood under the tip of the self-tapping screw or screw and at the turns of the thread and the ever-increasing frictional force that arises due to the compression of the self-tapping screw by the wood. The friction force increases due to an increase in the contact area of the self-tapping screw or screw with the wood. As a result, with sufficiently large rod diameters or when screwing into harder types of wood or to greater depths, no normal screwdriver will have enough power to tighten a screw or self-tapping screw to the required depth. And the screwdriver will only chirp loudly, hinting that the strength limit has been exceeded and this is correct, because screwdriver manufacturers do not like to repair products damaged due to the stubbornness of the user for free.
4.b.
However, not all people use a screwdriver that has power adjustment; why buy an extra power tool when you have a drill and a screwdriver attachment for self-tapping screws. A drill, unlike screwdrivers, does not have power adjustment, and therefore when tightening self-tapping screws or large diameter or to greater depths, 4 scenarios are possible:
- You will tear off the slots on the head of a self-tapping screw or screw - a very high probability, especially when tightening at high speeds.
- You will very quickly ruin the screwdriver attachment. However, if the nozzle for self-tapping screws is Chinese, this can also happen with relatively small loads on the nozzle.
- You will break a self-tapping screw that cannot withstand the torque - not often, but it happens. The fact is that self-tapping screws, unlike screws, are pre-hardened and therefore more fragile than screws.
- You will burn the drill when tightening a large number of screws at low speeds.
I don’t think you will like at least one of these options, so it’s better to spend extra time drilling holes than to spend this time repairing the drill, buying new attachments, or unscrewing a broken screw.
4.c.
Despite the victorious march of electricity across to the globe rough action physical strength So far no one has canceled it, and therefore even now it is not uncommon for screws or self-tapping screws to be tightened manually with a screwdriver. But let’s be honest, I myself don’t like having to go down and get a power tool when I’m working at height. When tightening screws or self-tapping screws by hand, the scenarios are almost the same as when working with a drill, only you won’t burn the drill, but instead of the attachment you will ruin the screwdriver and you can still get a couple of good calluses. But there is also positive side- Your muscles will develop, and girls love it, just don’t tell them exactly how you pumped up your muscles.
4.g.
There is another method that is now little used - do not tighten screws or self-tapping screws, but hammer them in. However, this method is more suitable for screws; self-tapping screws, due to their increased fragility, more often break than bend, and only if the self-tapping screw sticks out 0.3-0.5 cm above the surface of the wood, then you can try to finish it off. We are not talking about special screws driven into dowels here.
In Soviet times, there were other recommendations for tightening screws (there was a lot of cheap electricity back then, but for some reason there were few available power tools), for example, it was proposed to first tighten the first screw until the slots were licked, then unscrew and throw away the first screw and screw the second one in its place , and if the slots on the second one stick together, then unscrew the second screw and screw the third one in its place. Another option was more gentle; it was proposed to lubricate the screw with soap before tightening it to reduce the friction force of the screw shaft on the wood. Nowadays, such methods of screwing in a screw seem exotic, however, the choice of method is yours.
Sometimes it is also necessary to drill holes for metal screws if the screws are blunt. This is especially often done when assembling a metal frame for drywall, plastic panels or MDF panels. The fact is that blunt screws do not cut through the tin of the frame, but push through and, accordingly, the contact area of the screw increases even more and you need to press very hard on such a screw. In this case, drilling holes will not only facilitate and speed up the assembly of the frame, but will also help to avoid unnecessary injuries, because it is very easy to damage your hand if a nozzle comes off a screw.
The modern market for construction fasteners offers buyers wide choose self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, reviews of these “little helpers” are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of thread turns).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, it won’t be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to fit well into the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Tools for tightening screws
Fasteners may have caps different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have, as they say, as many attachments for the corresponding tools as possible. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! Best attachments those made of tool steel with strengthening additives. Do not choose the first set you come across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans are to screw one or two screws into a non-solid surface, then you can use a screwdriver. If it’s more, you can’t do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the space reserved for the screw. Place the product “in position”. Using careful but confident movements, rotate the part until it is well deepened and secured in the material. After this, the force can be increased. Towards the end of the “process” the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Concrete
Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete using dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not hold up, let alone a regular one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal ones.
Brick, ceramic tile, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these media in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that for working with tiles it is better to take a regular drill, since it can split due to excessive power of the hammer drill.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the diameter of the fastener shank excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Place the pointed jaws perpendicular to the screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter a millimeter and a half smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole and the job is done. Use parts with universal threads.
Note! Before “making a hole” in the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits into the hole tightly enough, but does not jam. If the screw fails to “break through”, you should work with a thicker drill. Tightening the part too easily symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw may pop out at any moment.
Hard metals
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded rod. Nearby hard metals self-tapping screws will not be able to cope - in particular, screwing these fasteners into cast iron is almost impossible.
Plastic
Not every plastic material is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure before starting work that the material fits exactly is a good idea. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, nothing is simpler. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of the material splitting with a self-tapping screw. For thick boards made of soft wood, you can do without this manipulation.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw (without thread, of course);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Drywall
Mark dots on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product in maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to minimum. When tightening with a regular screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will ensure maximum strength future design. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new one fastener place it at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall should be selected depending on the material used for the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for wooden sheathing - wood products.
How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it was before. It is very important that the screw fits into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” itself “ new way", the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. There is no need to put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and try again. A little force is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of “working hiccups”.
Screw - metal rod with a head, or cap, a screw thread and a section without thread. The shape of the cap is varied: hexagonal, cylindrical, semicircular. The slots on the head (the grooves where the screwdriver is inserted) also have different shape: straight, cruciform, star. There are options for wood, metal, and drywall. In this case, we will not consider drywall. Let's try to figure out how to properly tighten screws for wooden products.
The most important thing is to choose the right type for what material. Because there are specific features when working. And, of course, you should choose your bits carefully - special nozzles onto the screwing tool. This is a steel rod of a certain size for a specific spline. Dimensions depend on type and shape. There are bits for screwdrivers and hand drills, but there are also special kits for hand screwdrivers. Bits can also be equipped with various adapters.
It doesn't matter what tool the job is done with. It is important to follow the rules of twisting:
1. Pre-drill a hole.
2. Use a screwdriver, electric drill or brace.
3. The hole should be at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane.
4. The diameter of the hole should be such that only the tip of the screw fits in without effort.
5. Do not swing the drill while drilling.
6. Clean the surface to be machined and the hole after drilling.
A completely natural question arises: what size should the hole be? It depends on what material to work with and what screws to tighten.
When working with wooden parts, then it should be taken into account that the thinnest part in the connection should be two to three times thinner than the screw. However, it should not pass through the main, thick part. Therefore, a hole is drilled in it with a width of 0.8 times the diameter of the screw and a depth equal to the screw part. To avoid splitting the material, a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw is drilled through the thin part.
When installing the bit, you need to be very careful so that it does not break or break, deform the screw, or injure a person. The bit should fit tightly on the slot and not warp. Its diameter should correspond to the diameter of the screw head.
An example of how to tighten a screw into drywall
Use different kinds, including with a countersunk head. How is that little secret. To ensure the head is flush with the surface, you need to chamfer it. Drill a hole 0.5-1 mm deep. And the diameter is slightly larger than the head itself. After this, tighten the screw and fill it with mastic. The bits used here are also varied. And most often they work with a screwdriver. The main thing is to follow safety precautions. It's easier to work with self-tapping screws. But that is another topic.
There are self-tapping screws for concrete that will securely fasten without drilling or other preparatory operations. cladding materials to the walls. This is convenient: it significantly speeds up and simplifies any finishing task. Although experienced builders advise not to be lazy with preparing the hole.
What do self-tapping screws for aerated concrete look like?
Self-tapping screws mean fasteners that are made in the form of rods with heads. They have a special external thread, with the help of which they are screwed into the surface. That is, self-tapping screws are rod screws that have been threaded using a special variable method. This method helps to ensure fixation and good adhesion to concrete structures. The shape of the screws resembles a long rod with a pointed end on one side and a round cross-shaped head on the other.
Concrete structures require special hardware products. Manufacturers have taken this fact into account, and on store shelves you can always see self-tapping screws for aerated concrete and ordinary concrete. To screw in any other hardware, you first need to drill required diameter holes in concrete structures this can only be done with the help of a hammer drill or impact drill. Then dowels, for example made of plastic, are driven in to the appropriate sizes, and only then can the screws be screwed in. This path must be taken, otherwise the fastener will not adhere firmly to the surface, but there are also other ways!
Self-tapping screws for concrete - dimensions and other parameters
Since these hardware must be firmly held in such a hard material as concrete, they must be made of durable metal. It is important that the material is also moisture resistant. Therefore, they are often made of stainless and carbon steel, or brass. For greater strength, the screws are coated protective layers, so they can be of the following types:
- silver color, galvanized, good for all types of work;
- yellow, galvanized, suitable for interior works, are quite suitable for external fastenings, and serve well as decorative hardware;
- black with oxidized coating, used only for rooms with normal humidity levels.
In order to attach self-tapping screws to on different grounds, they are specially made with specific thread pitches. Typically, for these hardware, medium pitch and variable pitch, with notches, are used. The main characteristics that can describe self-tapping screws for concrete: head dimensions, length, thread pitch. Let us give an approximate classification according to this list of parameters.
- Self-tapping screws with a medium thread pitch and a universal profile; with their help, you can make different types of fastenings. Their diameter will be 3-6 mm, and their length will be from 12 to 220 mm. This type of self-tapping screws is the most popular.
- Self-tapping screws also have a medium thread pitch, but with a different profile - herringbone. They need to be used with dowels; they will have a diameter of 3-8 mm and a length of 12 to 200 mm.
- The third type is self-tapping screws with a variable notch (dowel). Such hardware is used for fastening to concrete walls without dowels; they come with a diameter of 7.5 mm and a length of 70-200 mm.
For last type self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled with special drills for concrete, the diameter of which is about 6 mm, and the depth must be 10-15 mm greater than the selected fastener length.
How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete - preparing the hole
Self-tapping screws for working with concrete must not only withstand heavy loads, but also provide reliable and durable fastening. Therefore, materials and design are chosen taking into account these properties. Before screwing a self-tapping screw into concrete or aerated concrete, you must additionally use dowels. Thanks to these auxiliary elements, a durable and reliable fastening on load-bearing foundations. Auxiliary elements are made of nylon, polyethylene and polypropylene.
These elements consist of two parts: cylindrical and spacer. The purpose of the cylindrical part is to adjust the fixation in the plaster so that the layer is not destroyed. The spacer part helps to firmly secure the entire structure in the holes. The most basic task of these devices is to ensure easy screwing of fasteners, while at the same time they must be securely fastened to the wall. We will tell you right now how to provide additional strength and reliability to the fasteners, so that in the future you can screw in a self-tapping screw into concrete without any problems.
For example, in order to drill holes, you need to use concrete drills whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the dowels. All holes must be made 3 or 5 mm larger than the length of the dowel. And you need to select self-tapping screws of the same length as the length of the dowels, or a little longer. It is important that the dowels fit into the finished holes easily and without additional effort. To install them in concrete or aerated concrete, you only need to lightly level them with light taps with a hammer. The screws are tightened using either a screwdriver or a screwdriver.
If it is important for you to mount without dowels, then such a method exists, but they use experienced craftsmen im very rare. In this case, the screws will need to be screwed directly into the prepared holes. If the surface itself is made of porous materials, then drilling with a hammer drill is impossible. To facilitate the work associated with screwing, you must use any machine oil. You need to drip it or lubricate the holes. Only this method allows you to screw in the screws forever. In the future it will be impossible to unscrew them.
Self-tapping screws for concrete with a herringbone profile can be driven into the surface with a hammer. This method is also considered “eternal”, and it is not possible to unscrew the hardware back. Self-tapping screws must be driven into the prepared holes together with dowels with a hammer. The main advantage of this method is speed. In this case, no additional time is needed to install and secure auxiliary elements.
Choosing self-tapping screws for concrete - what are the criteria?
The main purpose of these hardware is to be in the wall and carry some kind of load. In order for them to last long enough, they must be selected correctly, taking into account the main design features and characteristics. Not only their service life, that is, their ability to withstand a certain load, will depend on their length long time, but also appearance. Today you can purchase self-tapping screws for concrete from different manufacturers. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the thickness, the material from which they are made, and the presence of protective coatings.
It is also possible to select screws that match the color of the room design. Often decorative elements are attached to these hardware, and therefore it is possible to purchase them with colored heads.
There are also special fittings for masking on the surface of the heads. Self-tapping screws for working with concrete are particularly durable. The head is often cross-shaped for ease of use. It is important to choose the right screwdriver. Also, this type of hardware is additionally treated with an anti-corrosion layer. If, using a method such as driving, the screws remain in the wall forever, it is important that the integrity of the metal is not compromised.
How to tighten screws?
If you are going to attach one structural element to another using a screw, you should make a screw thread in the first one. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the head. The smooth part must enter the body of the attracted fragment.
Otherwise, you will not have a rigid connection between the planes due to the gap formed between them.
Countersinking is done so that the countersunk head does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes craftsmen neglect countersinks, believing that they can screw a screw into soft material so that its head goes deep into the surface and does not protrude.
Of course, sometimes this is possible, and if you wish, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it is worth remembering that the wood fibers will be damaged by such exposure to the caps, since they will have to find a “way out” under pressure, and, consequently, the presentation will be lost.
Screw slots can be:
- straight,
- cruciform.
Some models of screws even have special plugs.
They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented in which there is no slot on the head at all. They have to be tightened using a socket or wrench.
Stages of fastening work
Screw manufacturers do not always handle their products responsibly. There are screws on sale in which the screwdriver cannot be inserted into the heads at all because the slot is shallow or there are burrs in it.
It's better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, follow some rules to tighten them securely and efficiently:
- drill a hole in the first part;
- make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
- insert the screw into the hole without force;
- drill a hole in the second part;
- check that its diameter matches the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must fit in here with force;
- countersink a hole in the first part.
If the craftsman has a special drill that helps combine the two stages (drilling and countersinking), the process is simplified and accelerated.
Keep in mind that any special drill can only fit specific models of screws.
Countersinking
The screw will only screw into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. apply special drills or do your work in stages. It will pass freely through the first part, and its cap will tightly pull one part to the second.
If a small-diameter screw is used, drilling is not required. All you have to do is apply force and make a hole with an awl.
Working with screws involves a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or remove a screw.
For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented.
Self-tapping screws for concrete without pre-drilling holes
For example, if you need to unscrew a screw that desperately “rests”, use an adjustable wrench. This tool clamps the handle if it has edges, as well as top part slot. Press down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the adjustable wrench with the other.
A hammer can also be used successfully.
The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then you need to lightly tap its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws with “character” are removed using a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the head.
This kind of “torture” usually helps.
For no apparent reason, difficulties also occur with tightening/unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process does not proceed. Check whether the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, much like a foot in the wrong size shoe.
There are times when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments.
In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, first equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and head will partially go deeper into the first fragment. The hole can be filled with putty so that it is not visible.
When tightening a screw with a screwdriver, it is better to choose a long model.
The further the hand with the screwdriver is from the head, the less the axis will tilt. If you need to screw a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole and rub it with soap or vegetable oil before screwing it in. To strengthen the fastener, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw in it, and only then screw it in. It enters the tree more easily and then fastens it tightly.
Advantages of fiberboard
Marking
Preparation for installation
Base
The nuances of installing slabs
Completing installation
Fiberboard (more often you can see the abbreviated name, fiberboard) is a frequent visitor to construction and finishing stores.
The scope of its use is quite extensive, but it is often used for rough finishing of the floor or even as an independent flooring. Its main advantage in this regard is the possibility of installation on almost all surfaces, including previously made coating.
So, how to lay fiberboard on the floor?
Fiberboard boasts the ability to hide various surface defects, such as cracks, cavities or height differences. Today, professionals most often use 3 mm thick fiberboard. When the old base is not too even, then choose sheets twice as thick.
For the lower rear floors, oil-impregnated fiberboard should be used, as they are more moisture resistant.
Advantages of fiberboard
Among the main advantages of fiberboard, the following should be especially highlighted:
- environmental friendliness (the material contains only natural wood);
- simple installation;
- smooth surface, helping to get a perfectly flat floor;
- low price;
- increased resistance to mechanical stress;
- due to the peculiarities of production - dense structure;
- In terms of antiseptic properties, it outperforms even solid wood;
- durability;
- strength.
It is worth noting that the last two properties are relevant only in the case correct operation coatings.
This also means the creation of an additional layer of protection, which allows you to isolate the material from moisture. For him optimal choice will become water-repellent varnishes and paints, which at the same time will improve the characteristics appearance coverings.
Another useful quality of fiberboard is its excellent sound and heat insulation, which allows it to be used as insulation.
This is especially true for the lower floors of buildings, where slabs are laid on the floor. Most often, the M-20 and PT-100 brands are used for this.
Almost any other covering can be installed on top of fiberboard.
Marking
Today you can find a huge range of fiberboard boards on the market.
In order not to get lost in their diversity, you should focus on the following markings:
- T - solid slabs, the front surface was not further refined;
- T-P – frontal surface is tinted;
- T-S – the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp;
- T-SP – the front surface is made of tinted wood pulp and painted;
- M-1 – M-3 – soft slabs;
- ST – super-hard slabs, the front surface is not refined;
- ST-S – the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp.
Preparation for installation
Before proceeding with the actual installation of fibreboards, some initial work should be done.
Chief among them is the adaptation of the slabs to the humidity in the room, which should protect them from possible swelling. The work itself is quite simple - you need to moisten the surface of the sheets with a roller with warm water. Then the fiberboards are arranged in pairs with their back sides facing each other. After a day, the fiberboard slab for the floor is ready for installation, and you can begin further work.
An important point: this procedure is not performed in continuously heated rooms. Instead, the sheets are simply left alone for 48 hours.
One of the areas fiberboard applications is to level the surface.
In case of small differences, the sheets are laid directly on the base. For large ones, it will be necessary to install flooring from logs. A level is used to check evenness.
Base
Often the base of the floor is a wooden floor, as can be seen in numerous photos.
Self-tapping screws for concrete: selection options
In this case, slabs with a thickness of about 6 mm are used for laying. There is no need for a fiberboard underlay on a wooden floor.
You can also get an almost perfectly flat surface using a screed made of sand and cement, the production of which is carried out with a drawn line. The principle of operation here is quite simple: first we clean the coating very thoroughly, and then dry it. Next, pour a layer of sand up to 50 mm thick, on top of which the solution is distributed. After it hardens, bitumen or primer dissolved in gasoline is applied on top.
The hardening time of such a mixture is about 8 hours, after which the gluing of fiberboard sheets begins.
To do this, the screed is covered with a layer of mastic or glue over the entire surface.
The fiberboard slab for the floor is processed in the same way. It is worth noting that the mastic dries very quickly, so the process is carried out with one sheet at a time, and the composition should be applied immediately before installation.
Level the mastic using a rubber comb, after which the slab is attached to the floor. It is advisable to press down the laid slab with some kind of weight.
The floor will be completely ready in a few days.
Separately, it is worth highlighting the option of laying on logs. It is important to measure the size of the sheets before installation. Next, based on the data obtained, markings are made of where exactly the logs and fiberboard sheets will be laid. The logs themselves are boards or beams, dried and treated with an antiseptic, which are attached directly to the floor surface at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other.
Very important: you cannot use undried wood, as this is fraught with rapid rotting of the base of the floor and subsequent squeaking.
With this approach, the coating will have to be changed every couple of years.
Chipboard spacers may be required to install the joists evenly. If they were previously installed, their condition should be carefully inspected and, if necessary, repaired or replaced. Before you start laying fiberboard, it’s a good idea to measure the room again. It is very important that the width of the slabs does not exceed the width of the joists, as otherwise the floor may turn out uneven.
The nuances of installing slabs
Before you begin laying fiberboard slabs, you should carefully inspect the floor surface for signs of mold. If any are found, the affected areas should be treated with an antiseptic. Fibreboard is laid directly on the old covering only if it has a completely flat surface.
Otherwise, you will need to clean it first.
A gap of 5-10 mm should be left between the outer sheets and the wall, which will become expansion joint. In order to hide it, a plinth is then used. Fiberboard slabs should be joined to each other as much as possible to avoid any distortions.
Laying fiberboard begins from the corner opposite to the exit. They are laid out along adjacent walls. The lower side (rougher) of the slab should be at the top - this will allow for a stronger connection with the mastic.
If you plan to attach the fiberboard with glue, it is first leveled over the entire surface of the sheet, after which it is allowed to dry a little.
For additional strength of the connection, it would be useful to prime the floor. After securing to the surface of the coating, a load is placed on top. It is very important to check the position of the board (both horizontal and vertical) after each gluing and pressing.
If there is a pipeline in the room, care should be taken in advance to ensure that a certain gap remains around the circumference of the pipes, which is filled with cement mortar.
If fiberboard is laid on logs, then the sheets should be leveled and laid in such a way that the edges and joints fall exactly in the middle of the bars - such measures are necessary to create the most reliable and durable floor.
Another advantage of this approach is that in the event of a breakdown, you do not have to replace the entire floor at once - it will be enough to make do with damaged sheets. Each subsequent slab is aligned with a slight offset relative to the previous one to ensure structural stability.
Also, it is extremely contraindicated to place joints in places that bear a large load. An example is the refrigerator, kitchen stove and similar places where people often go.
So, how to attach fiberboard to wooden floor: the slabs are fastened using nails, screws or self-tapping screws.
If the thickness of the slab is 19 mm or more, then exclusively 50 mm nails are used, which are driven in in increments of 10 cm at an angle of 30 degrees. Nail heads should be recessed into the surface - they should not stick out from above. Traces from fasteners are additionally sealed with putty - its color should be matched to the color of the future floor covering.
There are also special nails for fastening the boards that are designed to work with this material.
Method laying fiberboard on logs allows you to get a warmer floor. Additional insulation is laid in the network cells. In addition, the places where the slabs are attached to the joists are completely invisible. In order for them to lie as evenly as possible, you may need to additionally trim them with a knife or jigsaw.
In case of particularly complex cutting, you can prepare a template from cardboard. Fiberboard flooring on a wooden floor is carried out without a primer.
Completion of installation
The final stage of work includes finishing floor. It consists mainly in the most careful control of the seams. If glue is found, it should be removed with a rag, and the found gaps 2-3 mm wide should be treated with putty. The joints are additionally glued with reinforcing tape - this will further increase the strength of the connection.
Many people prefer to prime or sand the subfloor.
This stage of work is not at all necessary, especially if you plan to lay laminate, parquet, carpet, etc. on top. If you plan to paint the VDP floor with your own hands, preference should be given to a painting composition with water-repellent properties and alkyd enamels.
Home > Articles > Choosing to use a self-tapping drill
| K | F | G | |
| Designation | Rec. Drilling capacity, mm |
Min. Profile thickness, mm | Effective thread length, mm |
| 4.8 x 29 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 18.00 |
| 4.8 x 38 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 27.00 |
| 4.8 x 50 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 40.00 |
| 4.8 x 60 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 50.00 |
| 4.8 x 70 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 60.00 |
| 4.8 x 80 | 2.30 | 1.30 | 70.00 |
| 5.5 x 19 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 6.00 |
| 5.5 x 25 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 12.00 |
| 5.5 x 32 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 18.00 |
| 5.5 x 38 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 24.00 |
| 5.5 x 51 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 37.00 |
| 5.5 x 64 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 48.00 |
| 5.5 x 76 | 5.30 | 1.30 | 60.00 |
| 6.3 x 19 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 4.00 |
| 6.3 x 25 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 10.00 |
| 6.3 x 32 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 16.00 |
| 6.3 x 38 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 22.00 |
| 6.3 x 50 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 36.00 |
| 6.3 x 60 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 44.00 |
| 6.3 x 80 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 64.00 |
| 6.3 x 100 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 84.00 |
| 6.3 x 130 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 115.00 |
| 6.3 x 150 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 135.00 |
| 6.3 x 175 | 6.50 | 1.30 | 160.00 |
Selecting the appropriate self-tapping drill to use
PULLING FORCE, kN
| Self-tapping diameter, mm | drill | 0.46 | 0.61 | 0.76 | 0.91 | 1,22 | 1,52 | 1,91 | 2,67 | 4,17 | 5,69 | 6,35 |
| 4,2 | №2 | 0.543 | 0.872 | 1.192 | 1.339 | 2.197 | 3.14 | 4.279 | 6.944 | — | — | — |
| 4,2 | №3 | 0.547 | 0.863 | 1.076 | 1.281 | 2.104 | 2.963 | 4.061 | 6.348 | 10.186 | — | — |
| 4,8 | №1 | 0.672 | 1.085 | 1.397 | 1.601 | 2.527 | 3.688 | 4.955 | 8.002 | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №2 | 0.596 | 0.965 | 1.223 | 1.65 | 2.447 | 3.501 | 4.608 | 7.366 | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №3 | 0.565 | 0.939 | 1.197 | 1.343 | 2.233 | 3.163 | 4.315 | 6.57 | 9.252 | 11.632 | — |
| 5,5 | №1 | 0.716 | 1.174 | 1.517 | 1.748 | 2.900 | 4.052 | 5.614 | 8.683 | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №2 | 0.707 | 1.094 | 1.272 | 1.681 | 2.705 | 3.785 | 5.267 | 8.269 | 11.436 | 15.671 | — |
| 5,5 | №3 | 0.645 | 0.952 | 1.299 | 1.530 | 2.464 | 3.381 | 4.742 | 7.268 | 10.778 | 13.349 | — |
| 5,5 | № 4 | — | — | — | — | 2.215 | 3.114 | 4.399 | 6.828 | 10.871 | 15.515 | 17.112 |
| 5,5 | №5 | — | — | — | — | 2.180 | 3.123 | 4.075 | 6.806 | 9.831 | 16.476 | 17.802 |
| 6,3 | №1 | 0.939 | 1.477 | 1.917 | 2.513 | 3.572 | 5.133 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 6,3 | №2 | 0.752 | 1.192 | 1.410 | 1.926 | 2.882 | 4.115 | 5.138 | — | — | 20.889 | — |
| 6,3 | №3 | 0.641 | 1.041 | 1.317 | 1.5 52 | 2.727 | 3.928 | 5.107 | 8.278 | 10.716 | 20.253 | 22.401 |
SHEARING FORCE, kN
K, Thickness of steel base, kN
| Self-tapping diameter, mm | drill | 0.46 | 0.61 | 0.76 | 0.91 | 1.22 | 1.52 | 1.91 | 2.67 | 4.17 | 5.69 | 6.35 |
| 4,2 | №2 | 1,321 | 2,22 | 2,504 | 3,305 | 4,728 | 4,809 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 4,2 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.261 | 4.862 | 5.396 | 5.413 | — | — | — | — |
| 48 | №2 | 1.401 | 2.14 | 2.633 | 3.705 | 5.378 | 5.654 | — | — | — | — | — |
| 4,8 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.252 | 5.645 | 6.864 | 6.917 | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №1 | 1.935 | 3.14 | 3.363 | 4.542 | 6.472 | — | — | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №2 | 1.637 | 2.682 | 2.785 | 4.008 | 6.107 | 7.833 | 9.524 | — | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | №3 | — | — | — | 3.434 | 6.054 | 7.219 | 8.776 | 8.847 | — | — | — |
| 5,5 | № 4 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 9.123 | 9.0430 | — | — |
| 5,5 | №5 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | 12.023 | 12.112 | 12.299 |
| 6,3 | №1 | 2.286 | 3.79 | 3.95 | 5.547 | 7.860 | — | — | — | — | — | — |
| 6,3 | №3 | — | — | — | 4.150 | 6.428 | 9.355 | 11.504 | 11.081 | 12.557 | — | — |
Sometimes you need to attach a dowel to the wall, but it breaks halfway. Or you don't have the plastic part of the dowel and it's hard to find it in right time. In such cases, when you need to attach a screw without a dowel, you can use a complex but effective method, which you will read below.
For screws in brick or concrete wall without a dowel you need tools.
However, there is nothing rare or hard to find that is not needed. It is necessary to pre-install the drill bit, drill bit (more high quality universal or for concrete), much smaller than a screw or screw and even a screwdriver.
First, mark the point where this screw or bolt should be installed.
Then, take the blade, cut it into the background at the point with the cutting lines. Get the resulting back flowers back. This must be done so as not to damage the wallpaper. Later, if you need to pull a screw, you can close the space again.
Next, you need to drill with a thin drill bit that is slightly thinner than the screw. Drill and smooth drill. Do not allow the hole to be larger than the specified size, otherwise the screw will not be installed correctly.
Insert a match into the hole that is best immersed in PVA glue.
Now you can screw the screwdriver on with a screwdriver. Just don't use a screwdriver. Use it nicely at low rpm. The fact is that if the bolt is driven at high speeds, it enters the wall very quickly and can move several times and thereby destroy the walls of the hole. Accordingly, there will be a corresponding fixation in this case.
Now the walls can hang a picture, a piece of furniture on courses and even some courses.
By the way, this method works best if the walls are strong enough, for example, made of high quality brick or reinforced concrete slabs. If the wall is easy to cut, it is better to use another method.
Cut the background blade, bend the flowers.
Turboshurupy - or like a screw into concrete
Drill the hole a little deeper and larger than the diameter of the screw or screw you want to screw into the wall. The cut, depending on the size of the hole formed, should not protrude outward.
Before inserting the chip into the drilled hole, immerse it in PVA. Tighten the hole. This method is ideal for fragile walls that are collapsing for some reason. So you get wood covering in the wall that you can breathe everything into, and then hang the screw or screw that is really needed.
CONFERENCE START-CAPE
questions about repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
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all: screw hole restoration
0th Anatoliy513.03.13 20:20
Sometimes it happens that the screw in the plastic is faulty. Who solves this problem?
first ASSP23.3.13 20:27
Hmm... If you follow the laws of physics, then in this case you need to "add" material to the hole or increase the diameter (or change the thread height) of the screw...
second CAT13.03.13 20:46
...There are many options - everyone chooses the one that suits them best.
From observations;) - Sometimes you bring repair equipment with curved thread in plastic and self-aligning state.
Versions I've seen:
<б>1 placeReproducibility, the part corresponds or toothpicks are screwed into the hole and the screw (in principle, this is logical - the part corresponds to a decrease in the diameter of the hole and the screw does not rotate, holding..), including options - instead it matches any piece of foil or thin plastic chip (usually plastic edge clamps).
<б>2nd place: Insert a bolt with a larger diameter/length into this hole (depending on whether larger screws can be used).
<б>3rd place: Various adhesives or fillers...
…it was even discovered on several occasions that they had put some sort of super glue on the screw. It is curious that the screw still makes concessions with great force (and even the frozen glue thread remains, so the screw is screwed back to normal..), but in one case the screw is squeezed out of the hole, the glue in the gap between the connected parts - the screw answered I did it, but I had to work with a chisel to break the glued surfaces.
Only miraculously plastic when split.
<б>4th place: People just hammered ... ... not in the sense of blowing up a screw with a hammer and inserting the screw into the hole and the result is that it did not have, so that if something is not always screwed into the insert hole - the results are that the screws do not ...
third contrabass13.03.13 20:55
And people came with epoxy glue and plastic that dissolves easily in acetone. But it's not good if you don't have time to get rid of...
fourth mhz8613.03.13 20:57
mainly used
<цитировать><б>CAT(2): 2nd place
FC copiers had severely broken table openings.
Large diameter drilled, machined needles that rise on a very dense plastic axle (mf 6550 hobs), mounted on adhesives and holes in regular screws...
<цитировать><б>contrabass(3): when there is no time to burn. <цитировать><б>CAT(2): People just forget
Edit: 20:57 mhz86
CAT13.03.13 20:57
<цитировать><б>contrabass(3): plastic which can be soluble in acetone.- Well, yes - drop two or three drops of dichloroethane into the hole and insert the screw...
sixth contrabass13.03.13 21:05
(5) And here you are...
Sometimes they bring it. Cartridges with construction screws, not pins. There are also holes that you want to name a hole for.
sevenths ASSP23/03/13 21:51
(6) "When the opening "hole" of the hole begins to exceed the surface of the article, such article is considered invalid."
My school teacher is at “work”...)))
eighths contrabass13.03.13 22:04
(7) a good look at the master, competent, just don't forget..)) For us, these entries often appear, which, it seems, was not their school teacher at work, but in physics and much more for what..
A nail can't hit a fingernail, but a telephone socket can be screwed in..(
tenths Ingmar13.3.13 22:35
when the holes are definitely not broken, but they are removed using plastic foil, I use a mixture of soda and cyanoacrylate. The resulting mass is completely drilled, processed with a file and held tightly with plastic. The only downside is that it froze in less than one second.
11 ASSP13.03.13 22:41
(8) The moderators forgive me again - I’m very lucky to have teachers at all.
The same master I mentioned taught me how to operate lathes and milling machines and how to properly (and use) correctly (and this is much more difficult than any machine), a screwdriver, a hammer, a chisel, etc. Good teachers were in old times.)))
But I was unhappy with the chemistry teacher. Her last name was (whoever wants it, he believes, and whoever wants it, no) Kaplan... Probably everyone will guess that the first question I asked when I “find out.”
)) After that, I did not rise above the “C” in chemistry, and the “honorable diploma” was equally covered by the “copper pool”.)))
How to screw a screw onto concrete on a very strong base?
Andrew03-14-2013 00:48
In particular, for this purpose, a glass of dichloroethane with a plastic stopper is dissolved from slot 5.25 of the computer to the consistency of thick sour cream.
A droplet falls into the hole and inserts a screw. The next time the cartridge goes in, it is extremely twisted and turned.
And in general, this crowd has been restoring a lot of things, but have recently become dependent on adhesive glue (even though it's not good for carving - any more than a plastic screw)
Printers, copiers, multifunction devices, fax machines and other office equipment:
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