What kind of polycarbonate to cover the canopy with? Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopies for a private house: photos of modern canopies. Criteria for optimal canopy selection

Polycarbonate canopies – street structures, universal for economic purposes. The material is light, flexible, translucent in large quantities color scheme, convenient format, are presented in different thicknesses, which allows you to design canopies of simple and complex curved shapes. The buildings look light, elegant, do not overload the landscape, and fit into any stylistic solution of the architectural ensemble on the site.

In the article we will give step-by-step instructions on how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, how to choose the right shape, calculate and design the structure.

What you need to know about polycarbonate canopies - general criteria

The manufacture of polycarbonate canopies has become popular due to the ease of installation, practicality of the material, and aesthetics of buildings. There are:

  • independent, free-standing - canopies over the pool, greenhouses, car parking, gazebos, outbuildings for various purposes;
  • attached to the building: bathhouse, garage - verandas, terraces, canopies over the porch and gate;
  • mobile - easily move around the site, usually over barbecues and small gazebos.

Sheds attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of large curved extensions

These are simple rectangular or complex, curvilinear structures, sometimes two-story, for example, above a garage or summer kitchen. Open and closed type; for this purpose, the side walls are glazed, covered with panels, beautiful lattice, clapboard, blockhouse, or covered with thick curtains.

Indoor polycarbonate canopy

Advice: Soft transparent windows, sliding aluminum systems are the most universal option: they do not block the view, are easy to open, and retain heat well when closed.

Polycarbonate support canopy attached to the house, photo of a curved roof

Canopies consist of supporting vertical posts and a roof. The frame is made of wood, metal, less often of concrete, stone, brick.

Typical drawing of a freestanding polycarbonate canopy

Wooden sheds with polycarbonate roofing

Making canopies and canopies from polycarbonate on a wooden base is the most cost-effective and easiest way to independently create a small architectural form on your site. Work does not require professional equipment, enough household hand tools. To build a wooden polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you use glued and profiled timber 100*100 or 150*150 mm, a rounded log ∅150-200 mm, tree trunks, strapping and a mauerlat made from the same material. For the rafter system of outbuildings, according to SNiP, it is necessary edged board 40*100 mm.

Sketch wooden canopy polycarbonate

The main disadvantages are flammability, poor moisture resistance resulting in rotting, fungal infections, loss of strength and aesthetics. Rodents and small bugs can damage load-bearing elements significant harm. Wooden canopies and polycarbonate canopies must be treated with fire-resistant compounds, an antiseptic, and a durable finish protective layer from oil or varnish.

A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a structure with a sloping roof

Metal awnings

Before making a polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame, you should choose the type of construction:

  • Welded from profiled or round pipe– the most popular polycarbonate canopies. For vertical racks they use pipes ∅50-150 mm, depending on the size of the building; for piping - a profile with an edge of 40-80 mm, for a farm -25-50 mm.
  • Forged ones are beautiful, elegant, but quite expensive from a financial point of view. On the construction market you can buy stamped forged parts and create an exclusive product yourself.
  • Prefabricated aluminum.

Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, hanging in the photo forged visor console type

For polycarbonate canopies up to 5 m, use a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, a cross-section of 40*20 mm, for buildings over 5.5 m, you will need a 3*40*40 or 2*30*60 mm rental.

An example of how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, drawings of an arched structure

An iron canopy will last for decades, although its main enemy is corrosion. It is necessary to clean the parts with a stiff brush from rust, scale, oil stains, go over the entire surface with an abrasive, then rinse with a solvent. Next, cover with primer and paint, preferably with hammer paint; it copes well with chemical, biological and mechanical loads.

Sketch of a suspended polycarbonate canopy over the entrance

Good to know: Metal products heat up from fire, sunlight, and quickly cool down in cold weather, so for comfort in gazebos, porches, and terraces, it is better to provide wooden railings on the parapet.

Brick, stone and concrete

Brick, concrete, stone polycarbonate canopies in the yard look impressive, but light and not bulky, thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate. They do not require maintenance during operation, are fire resistant, and tolerate harmful atmospheric influences and physical and mechanical influences well, although they require significant time and financial costs. While canopies made from other materials can be disassembled and moved, such structures are stationary and cannot be dismantled.

Roof

Canopies made of polycarbonate, photos of interesting ideas are presented in the gallery, there are also quite a lot of pictures and projects on the Internet, there are single- and double-slope, arched, cascade, less common are conical, domed, and wavy.

Typical options for polycarbonate canopies

Making the base is not difficult; it is enough to take into account wind and snow loads in the region, but rafter system requires serious calculations.

Farm classification:

  • According to the characteristic outlines of the contour - polygonal, triangular, broken parallel belts.
  • By type of lattice - rhombic, triangular, semi-diagonal, diagonal.
  • According to the method of support - cantilever, beam, arched, beam-cantilever.

Cascade support-cantilever canopy made of polycarbonate

The simplest option is lean-to canopy made of polycarbonate, optimal angle roof slope 22-30 o. The rafters are made of wood or it is a truss - a horizontal, curved or triangular frame with supporting braces, angled posts inside the main structure.

Scheme for a lean-to building

To create a project you need:

  • Diagram of the canopy with the type of roof; the type of lower and upper belts depends on this.
  • Drawings of polycarbonate canopies must include the dimensions of the structure, since the load changes in direct proportion to the dimensions. It is important to determine the upper as well as the lower point of the slope; the lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof.
  • Take into account the size of the panels; the distance between the rafters depends on this, so that the edge does not fall into the void.
  • Wind and snow load in the region can be found using special tables.

Gable polycarbonate canopy - project with forged elements

Trusses are calculated according to the SNiP regulations in section 2.01.07-85, this is difficult for independent calculations, engineering education is required, also special software. To avoid errors it is recommended to use online calculator or take finished project. Loads and impacts are specified in SNiP standards in part 2.01.07-85, rules for manufacturing metal structures— P-23-81 SNiP.

Arched canopies made of polycarbonate, in the photo there are sketches for small buildings

Good to know: The greater the distance from the bottom to the top point of the roof, the higher its load-bearing capacity.

To avoid getting confused in complex calculations, use the following recommendations:

  • With a slope of 22-30 o in a building 6-12 m wide, the height and length of the triangular truss should have a proportion of 1:5;
  • If the slope is 15-22 o, the dimensions are in the proportion 1:5, but the braces must be low-sloping, an even number of belts must be made, optimally 8.
  • A smaller slope is suitable for larger industrial buildings, engineering calculations are required here; the length and height of the run should be in the proportions of 1:7, 1:9.

Simple diagrams on how to make rafters for a polycarbonate canopy

Calculation of a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe

Let's take a canopy as a basis, size 6000*4000 mm, this is an ergonomic solution: a comfortable gazebo or covered parking for a car.

Standard dimensions of polycarbonate in width and length:

  • cast 2.050*2, 3, 6.12 m;
  • cell phone 2,100*3,6,12 m.

For private buildings, a sheet thickness of 6-12 mm is suitable.

Polycarbonate performance table

Trusses must be placed under each edge and in the middle of the sheets, so the distance between them will be 1 m.

For the racks we will take a pipe ∅80-100 mm, the pitch is 2.0 m along the long side of the canopy. For the roof:

  • essential elements - profile pipe 30*30 mm, length of the lower ones – 3.1 m, remember the Pythagorean theorem: square of the hypotenuse equal to the sum squares of the legs, calculate the length of the upper ones, in our case - 3.9 m;
  • inclined spacers - profile pipe 20*20 mm, location - at an angle of 25 degrees.

We will install perpendicular jumpers every 0.5 m from each other.

Standard diagram of a small farm

Step-by-step instructions on how to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house yourself

To weld metal canopies for a polycarbonate dacha, a number of conditions must be met:

  • Parts, as well as load-bearing elements, should not be cracked.
  • The roughness of the end of the supporting rib is determined by GOST 2789-73 - Ra £ 12.5 microns.
  • It is unacceptable to use steel with an internal layer and coarse slag inclusions for the lower chord of the truss.
  • According to GOST 14771-76, connections are best performed by mechanical welding, in a carbon dioxide environment or its mixture with argon.
  • According to GOST 2246-70 and 26271-84, it is recommended to use PP-AN-8 welding wire.
  • To fasten rafters to sub-rafter elements and vertical columns, class 5.8 bolts are used according to GOST clause 7798-70.

Drawing of an asymmetric arched canopy

Practical construction

We mark a place for the pillars, dig holes 700 mm deep, make a cushion of 100 mm sandstone, 100 mm crushed stone, and tamp it. We pour 100-200 mm of concrete into the bottom, install a pillar in it, insert it with force, in a circular motion, so that it goes deep. We fill the hole with concrete, check the plumb line, correct it if necessary, and also strengthen it with supporting slopes.

Important: Professionals recommend placing supports along the house, but if this is not possible, then load-bearing wall a beam of 60, 80*80 mm should be placed on the anchors, the trusses should be supported on it, connected by welding, this will allow the load to be distributed over the entire surface.

A way to secure vertical supports

When the solution has completely risen, we tie the pillars together at their heads, check the geometry, the diagonals must be equal.

It is better to cook farms on the ground, according to the chosen scheme; the most common ones are shown in the photo above. The finished parts are lifted and distributed evenly along the harness, in our case, every meter. The fastening points of the longitudinal strips and rafters are made using steel gussets, as well as welding or bolting.

The next stage is the sheathing (perpendicular purlins), from a 20*40 mm pipe, with a pitch of 400-600 mm, and sheets will be attached to it. The finished metal structure is cleaned and then painted.

The purlins will strengthen the frame, this will allow the polycarbonate to be fixed more securely

Watch video tips on how to properly attach a polycarbonate canopy to your house, this will help you avoid major mistakes when building with your own hands.

How to work with polycarbonate correctly

Cutting polycarbonate is better circular saw, equipped with a carbide disk with undetected fine teeth. Holes should be made using a drill with a metal drill, between the stiffening ribs. At the upper ends of the honeycomb panels, strips should be installed and self-adhesive tape for sealing, the lower ones cannot be closed.

There are 2 ways in total:

  • Thermal washers - the holes are made 2 mm larger than the mounting leg; the part should fit tightly until it clicks. The length of the washer is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate; it is necessarily equipped with an elastic band that seals the connection, which prevents precipitation and dust from getting inside. This type of fastening is called a point fastening; the washer tightly holds the polycarbonate and prevents it from deforming when heated.

How to secure polycarbonate to a canopy using a thermal washer

  • A special profile is a strip with grooves on both sides into which polycarbonate is inserted. The method is preferable if the sheets have to be joined. The edges are screwed with thermal washers. Profiles are provided for different connections: corner, docking, permanent, wall, detachable and special for docking if you need to change the roof configuration.

Photo instructions on how to attach polycarbonate to metal frame canopy using a profile

There is also a wet method, the panels are attached with putty, but if you are making a canopy with your own hands, then it is better to limit yourself to the previous 2 tips.

Types of fastening polycarbonate to the sheathing

Very convenient solution to create a recreation area or closed parking for a car in the country - a canopy made of modern, beautiful plastic polycarbonate material. The canopy does not take up much space, it does not need to be registered as real estate, and it is quickly and easily built on your own. The canopy can be placed close to the fence, to the garage, or attached to the wall of the house: then the cost of its construction will be minimal.

The canopy can be built on a metal or wooden frame. Wooden building materials are inexpensive and do not require the use of a welding machine during construction. Wood is a lightweight material, easy to process. The metal frame is more durable, but requires some skill in working with metal. The simplest and convenient option for self-production - this is an attached canopy.

Preparatory work

  • Before starting work, you should definitely spend time creating a schematic drawing that shows all the dimensions of the canopy, the location of the trusses and crossbars.
  • Except general drawing, you need to take care of creating a truss diagram with real dimensions. Trusses and other frame elements can be supported on fence supports.
  • The shape of the canopy roof can be pitched, arched, curved, or gable. In the photos you can see the wing-shaped roof.

To make a canopy you will need a welding machine, a grinder, a screwdriver, and a drill. It is better to enlist the help of someone in the household - it will be difficult to install the trusses alone.

For installation of trusses, optimal solution there will be a profiled pipe of rectangular section 20 by 40 mm. For the main frame, you can take a profiled pipe with a cross section of 80 by 80 mm. Polycarbonate is selected depending on the shape of the roof:

  • for a straight roof - from 10 mm,
  • for a curved roof - from 8 mm.

Polycarbonate should be selected in accordance with the style concept of the color or with the required degree of toning.

All metal parts must be treated several times with an anti-corrosion primer to prevent rusting. When processing, special attention should be paid to those parts of the supports that will be underground or in contact with it.

Installation of supports

  • On the site, the perimeter of the frame is drawn, all corners are checked for level.
  • The distance between supports should be no more than three meters.
  • There are several ways to secure supports.

Frame making

To bend the arcs you will need a pipe bender. Working with a pipe bender is not difficult: the pipe is inserted between the rollers and a certain bending radius is set.


How to work with polycarbonate

Working with polycarbonate is not difficult, but there are some general recommendations that should be followed:


How to install polycarbonate on a frame


The polycarbonate installation is complete. Now the canopy will only require regular inspection, care and cleaning.

Possible errors when working with polycarbonate

The quality of the canopy depends on the quality of the material and compliance with all installation rules. The most common mistakes made when working with plastic:


How to glue polycarbonate

Sometimes, after building a gazebo or large canopy, small pieces of polycarbonate remain that are a pity to throw away. From such pieces you can make a small decorative canopy over a bench, bridge or porch.

For gluing polycarbonates, special single- and two-component adhesives. One-component adhesives are mainly used for gluing polycarbonate to structural parts made of other materials. To glue polycarbonate sheets together, two-component acrylic, ethylene vinyl acetate, and polyurethane adhesives are used. Silicone glue will help glue sheets of any thickness.

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We make canopies from polycarbonate and glass.
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Living in a private house, it is stupid to constantly be within four walls. And for a comfortable stay on the adjacent site, some kind of roof is needed. Preferably close to home. Or in other words – a canopy.

Canopies made of polycarbonate. Durable and practical design.

Types of canopies

A canopy, if you remove all the husks, is primarily a roof. He can be:

  • Without supports or with racks.
  • Stand alone.
  • Attached to the house.

In any case, the presence of walls is not specified. And the shape of the coating varies quite a lot. But the gradation is quite simple. Coverage can be:

1. Direct. It in turn is divided into:

  • Single slope.
  • Gable.

2. Figured. They have more gradations:

  • Concave.
  • Convex, or marquise. And depending on the relationship of the linear dimensions to each other and the method of arrangement of the guides, awnings can be made in the form of:
    • Domes.
    • Elongated dome.
    • Arches.
    • Elongated arch.

Various options for canopies. For every taste.

To make a canopy with your own hands, it is better not to consider shaped options. They require enviable skill and equipment to create bent profiles in strict accordance with the drawings. In this case, the curvature of the guides must be maintained along the entire length of each plank. The slightest deviation will visibly manifest itself during installation.

Direct awnings are much easier to make. It will take no more than one day to create them, and they will delight you for quite a long time.

Criteria for optimal canopy selection

We stopped at a straight awning. It’s easy to make it with your own hands, but you need to figure out the number of slopes and the degree of inclination.

A gable canopy is usually made over front door. It provides protection against rain penetration through open door. And nothing more. Its size is too small to allow you to rest under it. Organization of a gable canopy large sizes, will require an unjustified increase in material costs. This means that what remains is a lean-to canopy.

The angle of inclination is a little more difficult to figure out. To do this, we need to consider a cross-section of a lean-to canopy. He looks like right triangle, which one:

  • The vertical leg is attached to the wall.
  • The horizontal leg is parallel to the ground.
  • The hypotenuse is the canopy.

Canopy material and dimensions

To organize a canopy you will need:

  • Beam.
  • Two asbestos cement pillars.
  • Polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate for a canopy is ideal for the following reasons.

For a canopy, it is best to use cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 8 mm or more.

  1. The cheapest of transparent materials.
  2. Has the highest strength.
  3. It is safe when destroyed (it does not produce sharp fragments).
  4. Easy to process.
  5. Available in any region.

And what captivates us most is its long service life - 10 years.
The choice of color is the prerogative of the owner, but we would recommend green.

Now let's calculate the dimensions and amount of material.

The length and width of the canopy are selected purely individually. It is impossible to make recommendations without knowing the size of the house and your desires. As a recommendation, we recommend making the length of the canopy a multiple of 2 m. This will avoid unnecessary work on adjusting the polycarbonate.

To calculate the quantity required material, to install a polycarbonate canopy you will need to measure several planes.

To calculate the length of the beam, again consider the canopy with a section, that is, like a triangle. And let’s remember the school geometry course for the 6th grade. And so, we have:

  • The lower part of the canopy, or adjacent leg – A.
  • The vertical part of the canopy adjacent to the wall, or the opposite leg - B.
  • Hypotenuse, or canopy covering - C.
  • Angle between A and C = 30°
  • Tangent is the ratio of the opposite side (B) to the adjacent side (A). For an angle of 30°, the tangent is 0.577.
  • If the length of the lower leg is 4 m, then the vertical leg is 4 x 0.577 = 2.3 m.
  • We calculate the length of the canopy, or hypotenuse, using the cosine. That is, through the ratio of the adjacent leg (A) to the hypotenuse (C). For an angle of 30°, the cosine value is 0.866.
  • Length of the hypotenuse (C) = 4/0.866 = 4.62 m.

You will need timber of various sizes.

In addition, you will need the following material sizes:

  • Beam 200x100x6000 – 1 pc. (mauerlat between pillars)
  • Beam 200x100x6000 – 2 pcs. (bench and skating run)
  • Beam 150x100x4000 – 6 pcs. (contractions)
  • Beam 150x100x4620 – 6 pcs. (rafters)
  • Beam 100Х100х2100 – 2 pcs. (vertical fixation on the wall)
  • Polycarbonate, width 2 m, length 4.7 m – 3 pcs.
  • Asbestos-cement pipes ∅150 mm, 4 m long – 2 pcs.
  • Connecting one-piece profile for polycarbonate – 15 m.
  • End profile for polycarbonate – 16 m.

Consumables: self-tapping screws for timber and polycarbonate, plates and angles for fastening timber, a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG, a kilogram of steel fiber, two pins 1 30 and ∅2 cm long.

Tools:

  • Shovel.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Hacksaw.
  • Plumb.
  • Rule.
  • Level (preferably laser).
  • Square.
  • Roulette.
  • Drill.

Sequence of work

There are many options for installing poles. Which one to choose is up to you.

Marking and installation of poles

Mark on the ground a place for the future canopy so that its long side (6 m) is adjacent to the wall of the house. As a result, two corners of the canopy will be adjacent to the house, and two will be at a distance of 4 m. It is necessary to dig holes in these two corners. The depth of the pit, you must adjust the height of the canopy. That is, given the height asbestos cement pillars(4 m) + beam height (0.2 m), you determine the height of the canopy. Remember, the minimum depth of the hole should be 1 m.

A 10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit and pillars are installed. The distance between the pillars should be 5.85 m. Please note that the distance is measured not between centers, but between the nearest points. Considering that 7.5 cm is half the diameter, then in total the distance between the centers of the pillars will be 5.85 + (0.075 + 0.075) = 6 m.

In the same way, the distance from the wall to the pipe is controlled, but the distance is already 3.93 m.

IMPORTANT: in both cases, the distance must be the same along the entire height of the pillar. This confirms the verticality of the installation, which is controlled by a plumb line.

The lower part of the post should be wrapped with a piece of roofing felt, which inside it must be thickly lubricated with grease. This procedure, coupled with sand cushion, will protect against squeezing out the support in case of possible swelling of the soil during frosts.

Concreting of supports. For dispersed reinforcement, use steel fiber in an amount of 0.7% of the total volume of the mixture.

The pit is filled with large crushed stone, and a small, 20-30 cm layer of concrete is poured on top. At the same time, concrete must be poured into the pipes themselves. This operation will serve as insurance for the stability of the support in case of damage. The volume of one pipe ∅15 cm and height 4 m is approximately equal to 70 liters. Filling two pillars and holes will require about 200 liters of concrete. To mix it, use a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG. IMPORTANT: On top of each pipe, it is necessary to bury a pre-prepared wooden cube with a side of 10 cm flush in the concrete. The timber will be attached to it. For better fixation, you can slightly screw several large screws into the bottom side of the cube.

After pouring, once again check the verticality of the installation and the distance between the control points.
The time it takes for concrete to gain sufficient strength to further work, at an air temperature of 20-25°C, approximately 3 days. During this time, you can complete the second stage.

Installation of a support on the wall of a house

It is necessary to fix 2 horizontal beams on the wall.
The lower beam, the beam, must be fixed at such a height that its upper side is 20 cm higher than the level of the pillar.

Video: Flooring installation

The top beam, the ridge girder, is fixed parallel to the beam. In this case, the distance between them should be 2.1 m. Taking into account the size of the ridge girder, this will give a height of 2.3 m. That is, it will allow maintaining an inclination angle of 30°.
Both beams are attached to the wall using corners that are placed around each element. This approach is less complicated, because screwing self-tapping screws into a wall through a 100 mm thick beam is extremely difficult. The corners should be twisted every 70-80 cm around the entire perimeter of the beam. One element will require 15-17 corners.

Between the ridge girder and the bed, two vertical beams are installed. They can be placed 20-30 cm from the edge of the structure. They should be secured only to horizontal structural elements through plates and corners.

IMPORTANT: During work, constantly monitor with laser level horizontal fit of elements. And before screwing the screws into the timber, be sure to drill a hole ∅1.5-2 mm.

Laying the mauerlat, fastening rafters and contractions

After the concrete has hardened, you can determine the location of the Mauerlat. It is laid on the end, and to fix it it is necessary to drill two through holes (one on each side). The continuation of these holes should be in wooden cubes that are recessed into the pillars. Pins 1 are inserted into these holes. Rigid fastening is not required here. Since the Mauerlat will be pressed down by the total weight of the structure, and the slight vertical mobility will protect the structure from destruction in the event of soil swelling in winter.

Fastenings are made using angles and plates.

Important: When working with the Mauerlat, check its horizontalness using a laser level. Remember that the upper end of the Mauerlat must be in the same plane as the upper end of the bench.

The next step is to record contractions. The first two of them are attached to the edges of the structure and fixed with corners on the sides and top, and with plates at the bottom. Please note that the mauerlat and the bench have a height of 200 mm, and the contractions are 150. Therefore, they must be aligned along the lower end!

After attaching the two extreme contractions, the remaining 4 are installed and fixed in the same way, at an equal distance from each other.

The last step is installation of the rafters. Start working with the outermost elements. But unlike scrums, each rafter must be sawed off at the ends for a tight fit on both sides: to the ridge passage and the corner between the mauerlat and the scrum. Important feature At this stage, it is possible to determine the quality of previous work.

The fact is that all six rafters must be sawed down equally if the accuracy and scrupulousness of the previous work was carried out at a high level. Therefore, first attach one rafter to the place of fixation, mark the sawing points, and after adjustment, try to attach it to the other 5 points. If the discrepancies are not too large, then the reason may be linear defects in the lumber. And if the parameters match at all 6 fixation points, the work can be considered excellent.

Canopy structure installation diagram

But first you need to prepare, lay and fix all the rafters. Remember that on the top of the rafters there should be no protruding screw heads, much less plates.

Cellular polycarbonate flooring

At the last stage, only three sheets of polycarbonate need to be laid. The first sheet can be fixed without stepping on it, but by securing screws from a ladder or stepladder placed on the side. In this case, the screws must be screwed into each rafter, the step between each fixation element is 50 cm.

Each sheet of cellular polycarbonate is closed at the ends with a profile, and between them it is necessary to secure a connecting one-piece profile. When attaching the second and third sheets, to tighten the screws, you will need to climb onto the surface of the canopy. To protect the polycarbonate from damage and your own safety, use a board 40-50 cm wide. The steps are placed on it. It is still better to perform this stage of work together, using a safety, mounting belt.

You will have to work from a ladder, so be careful and careful.

Don't forget the following points:

  • After fixing the polycarbonate sheet, remove the protective film from it.
  • Cellular polycarbonate is fixed with special screws.
  • Before tightening the self-tapping screw, you need to drill a hole in the polycarbonate, the ∅ of which is slightly larger than the same parameter as the self-tapping screw.
  • All lumber should be treated with drying oil.

Canopy Decoration

By and large, this beautiful canopy it can't be done better. But under it you can do original lighting. Let's say using LED strip.

If necessary, the triangular ends of the canopy can be covered with cellular polycarbonate. Moreover, this requires only two cuts standard width(2 m) and 2.4 m long.

If desired, you can arrange a circular curtain made of tarapulin or tarpaulin. Some owners of such canopies approach this creatively, and such curtains can very quickly be rolled up and fixed on top.

The main thing is that you already have a canopy made of cellular polycarbonate, assembled with your own hands. And decoration and decoration is a matter of time.



Modern canopies, thanks to the use of the latest in their designs building materials, can have a wide variety of configurations. Especially loved by the owners of their own estates and country houses do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopies for a private home: photos of convenient and practical structures convince of their extraordinary versatility. By covering most of the yard with a polycarbonate canopy, you don’t have to worry that sudden rain will overtake you by surprise, forcing you to collect what you left on the street. gardening Tools, shoes, equipment. The structure attached to the house will protect the car from the scorching sun, and if you have dinner planned with friends fresh air, the meeting will not have to be postponed due to bad weather.


Types of structures of canopies attached to the house

Both for canopies installed separately and for structures adjacent to the house, the same rule applies: the structures must be combined with existing architectural forms and fit into the overall landscape design. Awnings attached to a house rest on posts on one side, and are statically attached to the wall of the house, garage or fence on the other. There are several types of frames for such structures:

  • awnings with pitched roof- the most common simple structure. The installation technology is quite simple. When calculating the angle of inclination flat roof the possibility of rapid melting of snow cover in winter is taken into account;

  • gable structures are common roofing forms that have two slopes. The angle of inclination in such structures is 35-45 degrees, which ensures that snow melts under its own weight and there is no stagnation of rainwater. IN Lately gable canopies with concave and curved slopes are gaining popularity;

  • the arched (semicircular) shape of the roof is a current design from the standpoint of functionality and originality. Appearance the latest materials with plastic properties has made it possible to successfully use such structures for canopies, canopies and other structures. The semicircular roof facilitates the timely removal of snow. The bending radius of the arch depends on the minimum allowed by the manufacturer for the material used;

  • wavy and dome structures- used as a protective and decorative element;
  • multi-level canopies - structures with several tiers. In such canopies, both pitched and arched roof shapes can be used.

For self-production and installation of a polycarbonate canopy, especially if the work is being done for the first time, it is recommended to choose a design with pitched roof. It is quite simple to manufacture and can be installed without any special skills.


It will be much more difficult to design, manufacture and install dome or arched polycarbonate canopies for a private house with your own hands (photos on the Internet show the complex designs of such structures). Here it is necessary to take into account the directions of the channels in cellular polycarbonate panels, the permissible bending radius, the thickness of the material and other points that require certain knowledge and skills.


Materials for canopies: which polycarbonate is better

A canopy is a simple structure in the form of a roof mounted on support posts. For supports, you can use wood (logs or beams), metal profile pipes with different sections, as well as brick columns. Metallic profile And wooden beam They are also used for assembling the frame, only the cross-section is selected smaller than for supports.

The material for covering canopies can be varied. It is the roof that gives the structure a certain appearance. This can be plastic slate, asbestos-cement slate, metal tiles, copper sheets, corrugated sheets, polycarbonate.


Due to a number of unique properties, polycarbonate is the most popular covering for canopies. This material is in many ways superior to metal and glass, not inferior to them in environmental friendliness and strength. The high load resistance of cellular polycarbonate in comparison with glass is determined by the presence of longitudinal stiffening ribs of the cellular structure.

Although monolithic polycarbonate is stronger than cellular polycarbonate, each has its own advantages. The choice of one type or another directly depends on the requirements for the structure.


Solid polycarbonate has an incredible light transmittance of up to 90%. Cellular samples have slightly less translucent qualities, but at the same time they perfectly scatter light and create a barrier to ultraviolet radiation. The use of cellular polycarbonate sheets for canopies is due to the following properties:

  • high structural strength - several layers, interconnected by stiffening partitions at different angles, form a cellular structure, providing high strength;

  • stability, ability to withstand strong winds and snow loads;
  • impact resistance - the material not only does not form fragments when broken, but also almost does not deform under mechanical stress;
  • flexibility - it is possible to give the material any desired shape without compromising its characteristics;

  • high percentage of light transmission with UV protection;
  • resistance to temperature fluctuations - can be used at temperatures from -40 to +55? C;
  • light weight - allows installation without using special mechanisms(the material is 15 times lighter than similar-sized glass);

  • ease of cutting - the material is perfectly processed with cutting tools, drilled, and there are no splinters;
  • fireproof - a low-flammable material that self-extinguishes when contact with the fire source is stopped. The hole formed during melting allows smoke to escape, eliminating the risk of suffocation;
  • resistant to chemical and atmospheric influences;

  • durable - retains its properties throughout the entire period of operation, which is 10-11 years;
  • easy to care for - does not require additional processing, can be quickly cleaned.

As for the aesthetic component, manufacturers produce not only colorless transparent sheets, but also samples with a range of colors. This makes it possible to give structures made of cellular polycarbonate an impressive appearance.



What thickness of polycarbonate is best to use for canopies?

The characteristics of polycarbonate are largely determined by the structure of the material: cellular panels are hollow, their specific gravity much less than that of solid sheets. Therefore, their cost is lower.

The parameters for choosing polycarbonate for canopies are: its decorative features, geometric shapes, purpose, economic indicators.



Defining optimal thickness honeycomb panels, take into account the purpose of the canopy and the degree of load on the structure. For sheets with a honeycomb structure, consider the following:

  • polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 mm is used for small canopies with maximum curvature (canopies, greenhouses);

  • sheets with a thickness of 6-8 mm cover large-area structures that can withstand the effects of strong winds and snow loads (canopies for the yard, parking areas, swimming pools);
  • a sheet thickness of 10 mm is used to operate the structure in conditions environment, close to extreme.

Panel thickness monolithic polycarbonate can vary from 4 to 12 mm. This material is twice as strong as its cellular counterpart. The most commonly used thickness of a solid sheet for canopies is 4-6 mm, which can fully guarantee the strength of the structure in any climatic conditions.


DIY drawings of polycarbonate canopies

In order for the manufacture, assembly and installation of the structure to be carried out without any unexpected difficulties, you should develop a drawing of a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands. This will allow you to properly prepare all frame elements and avoid possible waste of materials. Sketches of the future building should take into account the design features of the chosen canopy shape. If possible, the parameters of the adjacent structure are chosen such that when cutting pipes and cutting plastic, as little waste as possible remains.


If selected arched design, the frame of which is made of a profile pipe, requires special equipment for bending pipes. Not everyone has such a tool at hand, but even if you have a pipe bender, it is quite difficult to give the material the correct bend.

Cutting polycarbonate for a semicircular structure also poses some difficulties. Therefore, for work done independently, it is recommended to opt for a lean-to polycarbonate canopy. For the frame of this design, it is much easier to calculate the amount of profile pipe and cut the required size polycarbonate sheets.



When covering the roof with polycarbonate, you should take into account the installation features of this material:

  • Typical polycarbonate panels are available in lengths of 6 or 12 m and a width of 2.1 m. Based on these parameters, the dimensions of the structure are calculated, which allows you to get as little waste as possible;
  • The panels are connected to each other using end profiles (their length is 6 m), which can be matched to the color of the polycarbonate. They are securely attached and do not require additional fixation;

  • the length of the end profile covering the final cut is 2.1 m;
  • to cover semicircular roofs, the polycarbonate sheet is positioned so that the bend is in the transverse direction of the air channels;
  • the arrangement of cellular polycarbonate sheets must be such as to ensure unhindered removal of condensate from the internal channels. Otherwise, the honeycombs inside the plastic will become moldy, which will affect the light transmission properties;

  • V pitched structures canopies, the upper end of the cellular polycarbonate is covered with a continuous self-adhesive tape to prevent the ingress of moisture, dust, and insects. The bottom end is treated with perforated tape, which allows moisture to escape out. IN arched canopies Micro-perforated tape is used at both ends;

  • mounting holes are created with a slightly larger diameter, which will allow the polycarbonate to freely expand or contract depending on temperature influence. The holes should not be made too large;
  • When installing panels, self-tapping screws with thermal washers are used, which are matched to the color of the polycarbonate.

The project also provides for the thickness of polycarbonate corresponding to the chosen design:

  • canopies of impressive size with an inclined shape - sheets 10 mm thick;
  • arched and semicircular canopies - an 8 mm panel is suitable;

  • for adjacent canopies of a lean-to structure with a gentle slope, polycarbonate with a sheet thickness of 16 mm is chosen, capable of withstanding a possible snow load of winter period.

All these nuances should be taken into account before installing a polycarbonate canopy on a private house with your own hands. Photos of self-made structures will serve as an example for making your own unique structure.


Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopies for a private house: photos of universal structures

Sheds attached to a home typically cover most of the yard. Some people prefer to cover the entire local area. This approach contributes to the versatility of the use of structures:

  • It’s easy to place a car underneath, protecting it from rain, hail, and snow;
  • the canopy will protect paving slabs in the yard from premature destruction and cracking;
  • thanks to the canopy, the porch and steps will always remain dry, which will eliminate the possibility of slipping;

  • design prevents getting wet gardening tools and technology, various items left on the street;
  • thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate, mini-flower beds with flowers can be placed under the canopy;
  • the conclusion is very convenient water pipe to the yard. Thanks to the canopy, you can always summer period in any weather, do household chores without going into the house: wash dishes, vegetables and fruits, canned food, etc.;

  • a functional structure is a shed for a summer residence: those who like to harvest and dry fruits do not have to worry that direct Sun rays or moisture;
  • with the arrival of autumn, a yard protected by a canopy will not have to be constantly cleared of falling leaves and branches, and in winter you will not have to spend a lot of time clearing snow.

Sheds attached to the house are a more acceptable option compared to a free-standing structure, since their construction requires less financial investment, and they are installed much faster.


By using polycarbonate carports, you save it from many negative impacts:

  • polycarbonate coating protects the car’s paint layer from sunlight, keeping it in perfect condition;
  • the canopy roof will prevent precipitation and small objects from getting onto the body. In winter it will protect against snow drifts;
  • a car parked under a canopy is well ventilated, which protects body elements from corrosion;

  • it is much more convenient to unload or load things into the car, especially in inclement weather, under a canopy;
  • the space protected by a canopy can be used for car maintenance and repair, regardless of weather conditions;
  • even if you have a garage in the yard, it is often more convenient to leave the car under a canopy if you need it after some time.

These and many other features allow carports attached to your home to be... a worthy alternative capital garage. Photos of polycarbonate carports, presented in large numbers online, demonstrate various shapes of these designs.


It is very convenient to use the area under a canopy for family breakfasts and dinners in the fresh air, especially if the structure is adjacent to the wall in which the kitchen windows are located. In this case, it will be convenient for the hostess to serve dishes and cooked dishes directly from the kitchen to the street. You can also quickly deal with cleaning up the dishes after a feast.


A canopy that protects the porch and the entrance to the house allows you to leave shoes used in the yard and garden outside the door without fear of getting wet, which helps keep your home safe. perfect cleanliness. And a canopy attached to the house, the covering of which protects the balcony or terrace, will make it possible to place comfortable upholstered furniture there for relaxation.


How to make polycarbonate canopies with your own hands

Before you start self-production polycarbonate canopy adjacent to the house, it is necessary to decide what materials the racks and frame of the structure will be made of.


Material selection

For support posts wooden structure beams of various sections are used for canopies, and boards are used for sheathing. Tree - environmentally friendly material, is easy to process and lasts a long time with proper care, and its construction will cost less than metal. In addition, when working with wood, there is no need for a welding machine or special skills. Disadvantages include ease of ignition and susceptibility to rotting. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the design and process it in a timely manner. wooden surfaces special compounds.


In metal structures, profile pipes of various sections are used. The recommended metal thickness is at least 2 mm. Metal structures are highly durable, resistant to moisture, long term operation. To prevent corrosion metal surface primed and painted. To connect parts, welding or bolting is used. You can give the canopy structure an elegant openwork look by using forged elements. However, forged structures will cost much more.


In some cases, stone or brick pillars. Such support posts are quite expensive, but the appearance justifies the investment, considering that stone structures are not afraid of moisture, sun and temperature fluctuations.


Installation and concreting of wooden supports

Before making a canopy, you should determine the amount of material needed for the structure. All calculations are made in accordance with drawings and sketches. It is recommended to purchase material in quantities 5-10% more than calculated: this will allow you to quickly replace incorrectly prepared or damaged elements.


To make a wooden canopy with a polycarbonate roof you will need the following materials:

  • timber with a section of 150x150 mm - for support posts and for horizontal frame beams. Required amount the material depends on the length and width of the structure;
  • board for rafters, purlins with a section of 100x150 mm. The quantity depends on the distance between the rafters. For polycarbonate coating, a step of 0.5-0.7 m is selected;
  • fasteners, hardware;
  • polycarbonate sheets.

They begin work by marking the territory. The points where the vertical support posts of the canopy will be located are outlined. The height of the supports is taken equal to the height of the canopy, taking into account the depth of the posts by 55-60 cm.


The supports are usually placed at a distance of 1-2 meters from each other. The pitch between the supports is selected depending on the length of the structure and the thickness of the roofing. First, the racks are installed next to the wall of the house, and then a row of racks on the outside of the structure. All supports must be located clearly opposite each other. The height of the racks must take into account the slope provided for by the project.


For concreting the supports, pits are made half a meter wide and deep. A layer of sand and crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pits. Then a support is installed, which has previously been subjected to antiseptic treatment and wrapped in waterproofing material. Check the verticality of the installation and fill it with concrete. The support is left in this form until the concrete mixture has completely set.


Frame making

Device wooden frame start from the inner row from the wall. Mounted to support posts wooden beams. For getting required length the beams are joined together using metal plates. The position of the beams must be strictly horizontal. The beams are fastened to the supports using self-tapping screws. In addition, the beams are additionally attached to the wall of the house using fasteners.



Once the horizontal beams are in place, the fasteners for the cross members are installed. To make the structure more rigid, it is recommended to strengthen the beams with spacers on both sides of the support posts. The spacers are fixed with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees.


Next, proceed to the installation of transverse elements. As a rule, the beams at the edges are installed first, then the middle and then the intermediate ones. cross beams. Once all the beams are in place, the edges are covered with end boards. For the strength of the structure, the outer beams on the left and right are reinforced with rafter legs. This will strengthen the structure in case of possible excess snow load.


Covering the frame with polycarbonate sheets

Covering the frame with polycarbonate begins with cutting out the plastic, the surface of which is marked with a marker. The polycarbonate is cut along the marked lines with a circular saw, the blade of which has fine teeth. When cutting sheets, they should be firmly fixed so that there is no vibration. After this, the cellular polycarbonate channels are cleaned of shavings and sawdust. When cutting the material, it is necessary to take into account the location of the channels inside the polycarbonate: they must be located in such a way that moisture can drain freely.



After the material is cut, it is placed on the frame and the places of fastenings are marked. Here you need to take into account that the distance from the edge of the sheet to the first hole should be more than 40 mm, and the fastening pitch should be 35-45 cm. Next, mounting holes with a slightly larger diameter than the self-tapping screw are drilled in the intended locations. When all the holes are made, the polycarbonate sheets are fixed to the frame. When fastening sheets, self-tapping screws and thermal washers are used. After attaching the self-tapping screw, the plug for the hole in the head snaps into place, which ensures complete sealing of the fastening.


Polycarbonate panels are connected to each other plastic profile, which is selected to match the color of the sheet. You should also ensure that the joining line of the panels falls on the transverse elements of the sheathing.

As soon as the polycarbonate panels are fixed to the frame, they begin processing the ends of the coating. The top ones are covered with a special aluminum tape, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside the sheet. And the bottom end is sealed with a special perforated tape, which not only prevents dust from entering, but also ensures the drainage of accumulated condensate. After installation is complete, you can equip the canopy with a gutter for water drainage.


Sheds attached to the house with a polycarbonate coating are simple but widely used structures that can be manufactured and installed independently. Such structures do not require additional reinforcement using trusses. The main thing is to choose the right angle of inclination, which will ensure unhindered and rapid snow removal.

Polycarbonate canopies are outdoor structures, universal for economic purposes. The material is light, flexible, translucent in a wide range of colors, convenient formats, available in different thicknesses, which allows you to design canopies of simple and complex curved shapes. The buildings look light, elegant, do not overload the landscape, and fit into any stylistic solution of the architectural ensemble on the site.

In the article we will give step-by-step instructions on how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, how to choose the right shape, calculate and design the structure.

What you need to know about polycarbonate canopies - general criteria

The manufacture of polycarbonate canopies has become popular due to the ease of installation, practicality of the material, and aesthetics of buildings. There are:

  • independent, free-standing - canopies over the pool, greenhouses, car parking, gazebos, outbuildings for various purposes;
  • attached to the building: bathhouse, garage - verandas, terraces, canopies over the porch and gate;
  • mobile - easily move around the site, usually over barbecues and small gazebos.

Sheds attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of large curved extensions

These are simple rectangular or complex, curvilinear structures, sometimes two-story, for example, above a garage or summer kitchen. Open and closed type; for this purpose, the side walls are glazed, covered with panels, beautiful lattice, clapboard, blockhouse, or covered with thick curtains.

Indoor polycarbonate canopy

Polycarbonate support canopy attached to the house, photo of a curved roof

Canopies consist of supporting vertical posts and a roof. The frame is made of wood, metal, less often of concrete, stone, brick.

Typical drawing of a freestanding polycarbonate canopy

Wooden sheds with polycarbonate roofing

Making canopies and canopies from polycarbonate on a wooden base is the most cost-effective and easiest way to independently create a small architectural form on your site. The work does not require professional equipment; household hand tools are sufficient. To build a wooden polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you use glued and profiled timber 100*100 or 150*150 mm, a rounded log ∅150-200 mm, tree trunks, strapping and a mauerlat made from the same material. For the rafter system of outbuildings, according to SNiP, a 40*100 mm edged board is required.

Sketch of a wooden polycarbonate canopy

The main disadvantages are flammability, poor moisture resistance resulting in rotting, fungal infections, loss of strength and aesthetics. Rodents and small bugs can cause significant damage to load-bearing elements. Wooden canopies and polycarbonate canopies must be treated with fire-resistant compounds, an antiseptic, and a durable finishing protective layer of oil or varnish.

A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a structure with a sloping roof

Metal awnings

Before making a polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame, you should choose the type of construction:

  • Welded from profiled or round pipes are the most popular polycarbonate canopies. For vertical posts, pipes with a diameter of 50-150 mm are used, depending on the size of the building, for piping - a profile with an edge of 40-80 mm, for a farm - 25-50 mm.
  • Forged ones are beautiful, elegant, but quite expensive from a financial point of view. On the construction market you can buy stamped forged parts and create an exclusive product yourself.
  • Prefabricated aluminum.

Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, in the photo there is a hanging forged canopy of a cantilever type

For polycarbonate canopies up to 5 m, use a profile with a wall thickness of 2 mm, a cross-section of 40*20 mm, for buildings over 5.5 m, you will need a 3*40*40 or 2*30*60 mm rental.

An example of how to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, drawings of an arched structure

An iron canopy will last for decades, although its main enemy is corrosion. It is necessary to clean the parts with a stiff brush from rust, scale, oil stains, go over the entire surface with an abrasive, then rinse with a solvent. Next, cover with primer and paint, preferably with hammer paint; it copes well with chemical, biological and mechanical loads.

Sketch of a suspended polycarbonate canopy over the entrance

Brick, stone and concrete

Brick, concrete, stone polycarbonate canopies in the yard look impressive, but light and not bulky, thanks to the translucency of polycarbonate. They do not require maintenance during operation, are fire resistant, and tolerate harmful atmospheric influences and physical and mechanical influences well, although they require significant time and financial costs. While canopies made from other materials can be disassembled and moved, such structures are stationary and cannot be dismantled.

Canopies made of polycarbonate, photos of interesting ideas are presented in the gallery, there are also quite a lot of pictures and projects on the Internet, there are single- and double-slope, arched, cascade, less common are conical, domed, and wavy.

Typical options for polycarbonate canopies

Making the base is not difficult; it is enough to take into account the wind and snow loads in the region, but the rafter system requires serious calculations.

  • According to the characteristic outlines of the contour - polygonal, triangular, broken parallel belts.
  • By type of lattice - rhombic, triangular, semi-diagonal, diagonal.
  • According to the method of support - cantilever, beam, arched, beam-cantilever.

Cascade support-cantilever canopy made of polycarbonate

The simplest option is a lean-to polycarbonate canopy, the optimal roof angle is 22-30 degrees. The rafters are made of wood or it is a truss - a horizontal, curved or triangular frame with supporting braces, angled posts inside the main structure.

Scheme for a lean-to building

To create a project you need:

  • Diagram of the canopy with the type of roof; the type of lower and upper belts depends on this.
  • Drawings of polycarbonate canopies must include the dimensions of the structure, since the load changes in direct proportion to the dimensions. It is important to determine the upper as well as the lower point of the slope; the lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof.
  • Take into account the size of the panels; the distance between the rafters depends on this, so that the edge does not fall into the void.
  • Wind and snow loads in the region can be found using special tables.

Gable polycarbonate canopy - project with forged elements

Trusses are calculated in accordance with the SNiP regulations in section 2.01.07-85, this is difficult for independent calculations, an engineering education and also special software are required. To avoid mistakes, it is recommended to use an online calculator or take a ready-made project. Loads and impacts are specified in SNiP standards in part 2.01.07-85, rules for the manufacture of metal structures - P-23-81 SNiP.

Arched canopies made of polycarbonate, in the photo there are sketches for small buildings

To avoid getting confused in complex calculations, use the following recommendations:

  • With a slope of 22-30 o in a building 6-12 m wide, the height and length of the triangular truss should have a proportion of 1:5;
  • If the slope is 15-22 o, the dimensions are in the proportion 1:5, but the braces must be low-sloping, an even number of belts must be made, optimally 8.
  • A smaller slope is appropriate for large industrial buildings; engineering calculations are required here; the length and height of the run should be in the proportion of 1:7, 1:9.

Simple diagrams on how to make rafters for a polycarbonate canopy

Calculation of a polycarbonate canopy from a profile pipe

Let's take a canopy as a basis, size 6000*4000 mm, this is an ergonomic solution: a comfortable gazebo or covered parking for a car.

Standard dimensions of polycarbonate in width and length:

For private buildings, a sheet thickness of 6-12 mm is suitable.

Polycarbonate performance table

Trusses must be placed under each edge and in the middle of the sheets, so the distance between them will be 1 m.

For the racks we will take a pipe ∅80-100 mm, the pitch is 2.0 m along the long side of the canopy. For the roof:

  • the main elements are a profile pipe 30*30 mm, the length of the lower ones is 3.1 m, we recall the Pythagorean theorem: the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs, we calculate the length of the upper ones, in our case - 3.9 m;
  • inclined spacers - profile pipe 20*20 mm, location - at an angle of 25 degrees.

We will install perpendicular jumpers every 0.5 m from each other.

Standard diagram of a small farm

Step-by-step instructions on how to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house yourself

To weld metal canopies for a polycarbonate dacha, a number of conditions must be met:

  • Parts, as well as load-bearing elements, should not be cracked.
  • The roughness of the end of the supporting rib is determined by 2789-73 GOST - Ra £ 12.5 microns.
  • It is unacceptable to use steel with an internal layer and coarse slag inclusions for the lower chord of the truss.
  • According to GOST 14771-76, connections are best performed by mechanical welding, in a carbon dioxide environment or its mixture with argon.
  • According to GOST 2246-70 and 26271-84, it is recommended to use PP-AN-8 welding wire.
  • To fasten rafters to sub-rafter elements and vertical columns, class 5.8 bolts are used according to GOST clause 7798-70.

Drawing of an asymmetric arched canopy

Practical construction

We mark a place for the pillars, dig holes 700 mm deep, make a cushion of 100 mm sandstone, 100 mm crushed stone, and tamp it. We pour 100-200 mm of concrete into the bottom, install a pillar in it, insert it with force, in a circular motion, so that it goes deep. We fill the hole with concrete, check the plumb line, correct it if necessary, and also strengthen it with supporting slopes.

Important: Professionals also recommend placing supports along the house, but if this is not possible, then a 60, 80*80 mm beam should be placed on the load-bearing wall with anchors, the trusses should be supported on it, connected by welding, this will distribute the load over the entire surface.

A way to secure vertical supports

When the solution has completely risen, we tie the pillars together at their heads, check the geometry, the diagonals must be equal.

It is better to cook farms on the ground, according to the chosen scheme; the most common ones are shown in the photo above. The finished parts are lifted and distributed evenly along the harness, in our case, every meter. The fastening points of the longitudinal strips and rafters are made using steel gussets, as well as welding or bolting.

The next stage is the sheathing (perpendicular purlins), from a 20*40 mm pipe, with a pitch of 400-600 mm, and sheets will be attached to it. The finished metal structure is cleaned and then painted.

The purlins will strengthen the frame, this will allow the polycarbonate to be fixed more securely

Watch video tips on how to properly attach a polycarbonate canopy to your house, this will help you avoid major mistakes when building with your own hands.

How to work with polycarbonate correctly

It is better to cut polycarbonate with a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade with undetected fine teeth. Holes should be made using a drill with a metal drill, between the stiffening ribs. At the upper ends of the honeycomb panels, strips and self-adhesive tape should be installed for sealing; the lower ends should not be covered.

There are 2 ways in total:

  • Thermal washers - the holes are made 2 mm larger than the mounting leg; the part should fit tightly until it clicks. The length of the washer is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate; it is necessarily equipped with an elastic band that seals the connection, which prevents precipitation and dust from getting inside. This type of fastening is called a point fastening; the washer tightly holds the polycarbonate and prevents it from deforming when heated.

How to secure polycarbonate to a canopy using a thermal washer

  • A special profile is a strip with grooves on both sides into which polycarbonate is inserted. The method is preferable if the sheets have to be joined. The edges are screwed with thermal washers. Profiles are provided for different connections: corner, docking, permanent, wall, detachable and special for docking if you need to change the roof configuration.

Photo instructions on how to attach polycarbonate to a metal canopy frame using a profile

There is also a wet method, the panels are attached with putty, but if you are making a canopy with your own hands, then it is better to limit yourself to the previous 2 tips.

Types of fastening polycarbonate to the sheathing

Arched polycarbonate canopies and other structures, 30 PHOTOS, as well as diagrams and types of trusses, making and installing a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands


Arched and gable canopies attached to a polycarbonate house, photos of structures. Choosing trusses, making and installing a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopies for a private house

Living in a private house, it is stupid to constantly be within four walls. And for a comfortable stay on the adjacent site, some kind of roof is needed. Preferably close to home. Or in other words – a canopy.

Canopies made of polycarbonate. Durable and practical design.

Types of canopies

A canopy, if you remove all the husks, is primarily a roof. He can be:

  • Without supports or with racks.
  • Stand alone.
  • Attached to the house.

In any case, the presence of walls is not specified. And the shape of the coating varies quite a lot. But the gradation is quite simple. Coverage can be:

1. Direct. It in turn is divided into:

2. Figured. They have more gradations:

  • Concave.
  • Convex, or marquise. And depending on the relationship of the linear dimensions to each other and the method of arrangement of the guides, awnings can be made in the form of:
    • Domes.
    • Elongated dome.
    • Arches.
    • Elongated arch.

Various options for canopies. For every taste.

To make a canopy with your own hands, it is better not to consider shaped options. They require enviable skill and equipment to create bent profiles in strict accordance with the drawings. In this case, the curvature of the guides must be maintained along the entire length of each plank. The slightest deviation will visibly manifest itself during installation.

Direct awnings are much easier to make. It will take no more than one day to create them, and they will delight you for quite a long time.

Criteria for optimal canopy selection

We stopped at a straight awning. It’s easy to make it with your own hands, but you need to figure out the number of slopes and the degree of inclination.

A gable canopy is usually installed above the front door. It provides protection against rain entering through an open door. And nothing more. Its size is too small to allow you to rest under it. Organizing a large gable canopy will require an unjustified increase in material costs. This means that what remains is a lean-to canopy.

The angle of inclination is a little more difficult to figure out. To do this, we need to consider a cross-section of a lean-to canopy. It looks like a right triangle with:

  • The vertical leg is attached to the wall.
  • The horizontal leg is parallel to the ground.
  • The hypotenuse is the canopy.

Canopy material and dimensions

To organize a canopy you will need:

Polycarbonate for a canopy is ideal for the following reasons.

For a canopy, it is best to use cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 8 mm or more.

  1. The cheapest of transparent materials.
  2. Has the highest strength.
  3. It is safe when destroyed (it does not produce sharp fragments).
  4. Easy to process.
  5. Available in any region.

And what captivates us most is its long service life - 10 years.

The choice of color is the prerogative of the owner, but we would recommend green.

Now let's calculate the dimensions and amount of material.

The length and width of the canopy are selected purely individually. It is impossible to make recommendations without knowing the size of the house and your desires. As a recommendation, we recommend making the length of the canopy a multiple of 2 m. This will avoid unnecessary work on adjusting the polycarbonate.

To calculate the amount of material required for constructing a polycarbonate canopy, you will need to measure several planes.

To calculate the length of the beam, again consider the canopy with a section, that is, like a triangle. And let’s remember the school geometry course for the 6th grade. And so, we have:

  • The lower part of the canopy, or adjacent leg – A.
  • The vertical part of the canopy adjacent to the wall, or the opposite leg - B.
  • Hypotenuse, or canopy covering - C.
  • Angle between A and C = 30°
  • Tangent is the ratio of the opposite side (B) to the adjacent side (A). For an angle of 30°, the tangent is 0.577.
  • If the length of the lower leg is 4 m, then the vertical leg is 4 x 0.577 = 2.3 m.
  • We calculate the length of the canopy, or hypotenuse, using the cosine. That is, through the ratio of the adjacent leg (A) to the hypotenuse (C). For an angle of 30°, the cosine value is 0.866.
  • Length of the hypotenuse (C) = 4/0.866 = 4.62 m.

You will need timber of various sizes.

In addition, you will need the following material sizes:

  • Beam 200x100x6000 – 1 pc. (mauerlat between pillars)
  • Beam 200x100x6000 – 2 pcs. (bench and skating run)
  • Beam 150x100x4000 – 6 pcs. (contractions)
  • Beam 150x100x4620 – 6 pcs. (rafters)
  • Beam 100Х100х2100 – 2 pcs. (vertical fixation on the wall)
  • Polycarbonate, width 2 m, length 4.7 m – 3 pcs.
  • Asbestos-cement pipes ∅150 mm, 4 m long – 2 pcs.
  • Connecting one-piece profile for polycarbonate – 15 m.
  • End profile for polycarbonate – 16 m.

Consumables: self-tapping screws for timber and polycarbonate, plates and angles for fastening timber, a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG, a kilogram of steel fiber, two pins 1 30 and ∅2 cm long.

Sequence of work

There are many options for installing poles. Which one to choose is up to you.

Marking and installation of poles

Mark on the ground a place for the future canopy so that its long side (6 m) is adjacent to the wall of the house. As a result, two corners of the canopy will be adjacent to the house, and two will be at a distance of 4 m. It is necessary to dig holes in these two corners. The depth of the pit, you must adjust the height of the canopy. That is, taking into account the height of the asbestos-cement pillars (4 m) + the height of the timber (0.2 m), you determine the height of the canopy. Remember, the minimum depth of the hole should be 1 m.

A 10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit and pillars are installed. The distance between the pillars should be 5.85 m. Please note that the distance is measured not between centers, but between the nearest points. Considering that 7.5 cm is half the diameter, then in total the distance between the centers of the pillars will be 5.85 + (0.075 + 0.075) = 6 m.

In the same way, the distance from the wall to the pipe is controlled, but the distance is already 3.93 m.

IMPORTANT: in both cases, the distance must be the same along the entire height of the pillar. This confirms the verticality of the installation, which is controlled by a plumb line.

The lower part of the post should be wrapped with a piece of roofing felt, which should be thickly lubricated on the inside with grease. This procedure, coupled with a sand cushion, will protect against squeezing out the support in case of possible heaving of the soil during frosts.

Concreting of supports. For dispersed reinforcement, use steel fiber in an amount of 0.7% of the total volume of the mixture.

The pit is filled with large crushed stone, and a small, 20-30 cm layer of concrete is poured on top. At the same time, concrete must be poured into the pipes themselves. This operation will serve as insurance for the stability of the support in case of damage. The volume of one pipe ∅15 cm and height 4 m is approximately equal to 70 liters. Filling two pillars and holes will require about 200 liters of concrete. To mix it, use a bag of cement and 3 bags of ASG. IMPORTANT: On top of each pipe, it is necessary to bury a pre-prepared wooden cube with a side of 10 cm flush in the concrete. The timber will be attached to it. For better fixation, you can slightly screw several large screws into the bottom side of the cube.

After pouring, once again check the verticality of the installation and the distance between the control points.

The time it takes for concrete to gain sufficient strength for further work, at an air temperature of 20-25°C, is approximately 3 days. During this time, you can complete the second stage.

Installation of a support on the wall of a house

It is necessary to fix 2 horizontal beams on the wall.

The lower beam, the beam, must be fixed at such a height that its upper side is 20 cm higher than the level of the pillar.

The top beam, the ridge girder, is fixed parallel to the beam. In this case, the distance between them should be 2.1 m. Taking into account the size of the ridge girder, this will give a height of 2.3 m. That is, it will allow maintaining an inclination angle of 30°.

Both beams are attached to the wall using corners that are placed around each element. This approach is less complicated, because screwing self-tapping screws into a wall through a 100 mm thick beam is extremely difficult. The corners should be twisted every 70-80 cm around the entire perimeter of the beam. One element will require 15-17 corners.

Between the ridge girder and the bed, two vertical beams are installed. They can be placed 20-30 cm from the edge of the structure. They should be secured only to horizontal structural elements through plates and corners.

IMPORTANT: During work, constantly check the horizontal fit of the elements using a laser level. And before screwing the screws into the timber, be sure to drill a hole ∅1.5-2 mm.

Laying the mauerlat, fastening rafters and contractions

After the concrete has hardened, you can determine the location of the Mauerlat. It is laid on the end, and to fix it it is necessary to drill two through holes (one on each side). The continuation of these holes should be in wooden cubes that are recessed into the pillars. Pins 1 are inserted into these holes. Rigid fastening is not required here. Since the Mauerlat will be pressed down by the total weight of the structure, and the slight vertical mobility will protect the structure from destruction in the event of soil swelling in winter.

Fastenings are made using angles and plates.

Important: When working with the Mauerlat, check its horizontalness using a laser level. Remember that the upper end of the Mauerlat must be in the same plane as the upper end of the bench.

The next step is to record contractions. The first two of them are attached to the edges of the structure and fixed with corners on the sides and top, and with plates at the bottom. Please note that the mauerlat and the bench have a height of 200 mm, and the contractions are 150. Therefore, they must be aligned along the lower end!

After attaching the two extreme contractions, the remaining 4 are installed and fixed in the same way, at an equal distance from each other.

The last step is installation of the rafters. Start working with the outermost elements. But unlike scrums, each rafter must be sawed off at the ends for a tight fit on both sides: to the ridge passage and the corner between the mauerlat and the scrum. An important feature of this stage is the ability to determine the quality of previous work.

The fact is that all six rafters must be sawed down equally if the accuracy and scrupulousness of the previous work was carried out at a high level. Therefore, first attach one rafter to the place of fixation, mark the sawing points, and after adjustment, try to attach it to the other 5 points. If the discrepancies are not too large, then the reason may be linear defects in the lumber. And if the parameters match at all 6 fixation points, the work can be considered excellent.

Canopy structure installation diagram

But first you need to prepare, lay and fix all the rafters. Remember that on the top of the rafters there should be no protruding screw heads, much less plates.

Cellular polycarbonate flooring

At the last stage, only three sheets of polycarbonate need to be laid. The first sheet can be fixed without stepping on it, but by securing screws from a ladder or stepladder placed on the side. In this case, the screws must be screwed into each rafter, the step between each fixation element is 50 cm.

Each sheet of cellular polycarbonate is closed at the ends with a profile, and between them it is necessary to secure a connecting one-piece profile. When attaching the second and third sheets, to tighten the screws, you will need to climb onto the surface of the canopy. To protect the polycarbonate from damage and your own safety, use a board 40-50 cm wide. The steps are placed on it. It is still better to perform this stage of work together, using a safety, mounting belt.

You will have to work from a ladder, so be careful and careful.

Don't forget the following points:

  • After fixing the polycarbonate sheet, remove the protective film from it.
  • Cellular polycarbonate is fixed with special screws.
  • Before tightening the self-tapping screw, you need to drill a hole in the polycarbonate, the ∅ of which is slightly larger than the same parameter as the self-tapping screw.
  • All lumber should be treated with drying oil.

Canopy Decoration

By and large, such a beautiful canopy cannot be made better. But you can create original lighting underneath it. Let's say using LED strip.

If necessary, the triangular ends of the canopy can be covered with cellular polycarbonate. Moreover, this will require only two cuts of a standard width (2 m) and a length of 2.4 m.

If desired, you can arrange a circular curtain made of tarapulin or tarpaulin. Some owners of such canopies approach this creatively, and such curtains can very quickly be rolled up and fixed on top.

The main thing is that you already have a canopy made of cellular polycarbonate, assembled with your own hands. And decoration and decoration is a matter of time.

DIY polycarbonate house canopies, photos, instructions, drawings, video


How to build a polycarbonate canopy for your house with your own hands - step-by-step instruction, selection and calculation of the amount of material for construction, installation to the wall of the house, polycarbonate coating.

 
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