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Scheme of insulating walls with polystyrene foam from the outside and the optimal thickness of insulation for a brick house for siding. Insulating walls outside with polystyrene foam Finishing polystyrene foam inside the room

Expanded polystyrene is a material that in appearance resembles polystyrene foam. Only it is pressed, not ordinary. They sell it in special sheets, with different sizes and different densities. Speed ​​of installation and convenience are the main advantages for which polystyrene foam is praised by builders themselves. This material can be used for thermal insulation of any part of the house: on the foundation and windows, floor, roof, walls. The most successful and most common insulation with polystyrene foam is used outside. At the same time, they work with this technology both during the reconstruction of old buildings and during conventional construction.

What advantages does the material have?

1. Impact resistance external factors : increased atmospheric humidity, temperature changes, exposure sun rays.
2. Insects, birds and rodents are not able to destroy such structures
3. Expanded polystyrene - fireproof material
4. The service life, subject to all rules, is 55 years.
5. With such wall insulation no vapor barriers needed, since steam simply does not penetrate inside.
6. Environmental friendliness
7. Resistant to mold, deformation and moisture penetration. What is provided by moisture resistance.
8. High compressive strength.

Insulation from the outside: how to do it right?

How is insulation carried out from the inside?

Situations when you need to insulate walls with polystyrene foam from the inside happen quite often. For example, if the decorative elements on facade finishing too much. Concerning interior work, then a material with a thickness of 30 to 40 millimeters, or from 10 to 20 mm, is most suitable here. Usually glue is used to secure the material to inner surface walls. So the sheets may not be recorded at all using other devices.

The walls must be moistened and cleaned of dirt before insulation work is carried out. The same should be done with polystyrene foam. Using a stirrer or powerful electric drill divorced in plastic container glue.

The surface of the polystyrene foam is slightly moistened with water, then a little glue is rubbed into the material with a trowel, causing small spots to form. Distance between them should not exceed 20 centimeters. A certain amount of glue is then applied to the spots themselves. It turns out to be a kind of flat cake. Glue must also be applied to the ends if the sheets are joined along them. But this condition is by no means mandatory.

Finally, a sheet of insulation is attached to the wall. Everything is pressed, you should tap the surface with your palm. Thanks to this movement, the glue will be evenly distributed over the entire surface. You can support the sheets with boards for additional fix the structure. The gaps between some sheets are sealed after all the walls are covered with insulation. It is better to leave small ventilation openings in the sheets above windows and doors so that condensation does not accumulate under the insulation.

What else do you need to know about the material?

The structure of expanded polystyrene can be called truly unique. It is developed using inflating polystyrene granules with air. It is this process that becomes the basis for unique properties the polystyrene foam itself. Polystyrene foam is small granules that are connected to each other.

In general, the material is different high sound insulation, since it itself converts sound energy into heat energy. A slab of 2-3 centimeters is enough to achieve high performance by this parameter.

The properties of insulation do not change even when exposed to too low or too high temperatures. The structure is not deformed, even if the material is exposed to large amounts of water.

About foundation thermal insulation

The basis of any building is the foundation; thermal comfort and durability largely depend on this element. Therefore, one of the first places should be given to the issue related to foundation insulation, especially This is true for regions where the climate is quite harsh. Expanded polystyrene slabs are traditionally used as the middle part of three-layer foundation blocks.

When installing basement-free premises expanded polystyrene has also proven itself quite well. The insulation boards are laid on a special prepared platform. There can be one layer, but you can make several. Then everything is poured with concrete, the structure is erected in the usual way.

In this case, the concrete screed becomes both the base of the floor and the foundation. At the same time, the need to construct a point foundation for load-bearing supports does not disappear anywhere. Expanded polystyrene can be used for thermal insulation and in cases where it is necessary provide additional protection against freezing.

Floors and ceilings: Thermal insulation

Reducing the transmission of impact noise is a task that polystyrene foam does an excellent job of when used for thermal insulation of ceilings and floors. So it can not only protect against possible heat loss. In this case, the slabs must have a thickness minimum 50 mm. Expanded polystyrene is laid on top, on a material with insulating properties. The seams that form during this process must be sealed. Finally, at the last stage, the concrete or sand-cement mixture up to 6 cm thick, or tongue-and-groove chipboard.

About roofs and their thermal insulation

There are several ways to insulate roofs in any premises:

1. The first method uses slabs of this material. up to 70 mm thick. Lays on top of them bitumen layer, completely protected from moisture. Expanded polystyrene slabs are also laid on top of the rafters so that heat loss is minimal and so-called cold bridges do not appear in the structure.
2. In addition, polystyrene foam boards can be laid only on the back side of the roof. Condensation of water vapor is prevented by creating a small ventilated plane. Such thermal insulation is economical, with low costs it helps achieve significant results.

Insulation of facades: additional rules

You need to follow some rules to create reliable design, which really allows you to retain maximum heat.

First of all, it is simply necessary to remove all unnecessary objects from the surface of the facade. Can use the skin to the surface after repair work became even more even.

Typically, leveling walls is a rather complicated and expensive process. You can use a nylon cord to save yourself from unnecessary hassle. It is enough to lower it along the wall to detect the deepest gaps and uneven places.

The outer side of the facade will not be smooth if nothing is done. More glue needs to be used in the void if the holes are deep enough. Thus, in space there will be no vacuum, the material will not fail anywhere. You can use a hammer to knock down regular bumps. After this, you can seal the surface with putty. In this case, it will be easier and faster to trim the insulation to the extent necessary.

The cut sides should be used to join the sheets of the insulation itself. In this case, the gap between them will be minimal, since these are the sides that differ smoother surface. Liquid polystyrene foam can be used to seal the largest cracks. You cannot use polyurethane foam, as it can negatively affect the integrity of the entire structure.

Disc-shaped dowels are equipped with a special cap, similar to an umbrella, thanks to which the polystyrene foam presses more effectively to the surface. Other fasteners can be used, but they are not as effective.

Filipino aborigines can easily do without insulating their homes with polystyrene foam, given the stable heat on the islands all year round, but in our case refuse good insulation Walls in winter are like going out into the cold without a hat - it’s possible, but it’s stupid and unpleasant.

Together with the publication's experts, we figure out how to insulate a house inside and out, what extruded polystyrene foam is and what is better to insulate - polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene?

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Pros of expanded polystyrene

1. high strength with light weight;
2. low vapor permeability and noise absorption;
3. high resistance to chemicals;
4. environmentally friendly;
5. fireproof;
6. moisture resistant;
7. retains its original shape throughout the entire period of operation;
8. low cost.

Cons of expanded polystyrene

1. fragility.

Polystyrene foam insulation technology

Typically, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of premises from the outside, but it is also suitable for internal insulation of residential premises, although with reservations: EPS “steals” space, is not “breathable” and when insulated from the inside it emits a characteristic odor. It is better to pay attention to other material.

To glue EPS to the wall, use a special adhesive (glue or foam for expanded polystyrene). As a rule, this is a dry mixture, which before use is diluted in warm water at room temperature and kneaded to a uniform, lump-free consistency.

IMPORTANT! When working with extruded polystyrene foam, glue or foam is applied in advance, approximately an hour before the EPS is attached, in an even layer on the wall and on the sheet itself.

Special dowels and plastic nails with “umbrella” caps are used. It is advisable to combine both glue and dowels.

Surface preparation and sheet application technology

Work progress:

Step 1 - Clean and prime the surface before insulation, mark it with “beacons” Step 5 - When flat wall use a notched trowel, thanks to which an even and fairly economical layer is obtained Photo 7 - When the glue has set, holes are drilled in the wall through the slabs according to the diameter of the dowels Step 11 - Reinforced layer additionally leveled with a solution, dried again, primed and then subjected to finishing plaster, onto which the wall finishing is applied

IMPORTANT! All work on wall insulation must be carried out on a dry day at a temperature not lower than +5 °C.

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam

Wooden, frame, and brick houses can be insulated using PPS. Owners of private houses are increasingly using expanded polystyrene for external insulation. Insulating a frame house is a relatively new achievement; not all cottage owners trust it.

Warming sequence frame house:

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The above technology is also relevant for self-insulation of walls with polystyrene foam. But which insulation is better to choose, what types are offered? Maybe better liquid material? How to correctly calculate the thickness?

Main stages of external insulation:

1. prepare surfaces: cleaning, filling cracks and cracks;
2. prepare an adhesive mixture or use polyurethane foam glue;
3. apply glue to the polystyrene foam boards: first lay out the edging, dotted in the middle;
4. fix the slabs with dowels with mushroom-shaped plastic caps;
5. coat the slabs with glue, apply reinforcing mesh;
6. putty the seams;
7. plaster, prime the walls, apply decorative plaster or paint.

Ceiling insulation

Few people think about insulating the ceiling from the inside, but if the ceiling is not insulated, then all the heat goes up to the ceiling and to the street. Even a non-professional can insulate the ceiling if desired, the installation technology is so simple:

1. count the quantity required material- multiply the length of the room by the width;
2. clean the ceiling from whitewash or wallpaper;
3. complete all electrical work;
4. eliminate all roughness on the ceiling before starting work, since the surface of the ceiling must be smooth;
5. It is advisable to carry out work in warm time of the year;
6. After cleaning, treat the ceiling surface with a primer solution;
7. prepare sheets, cut them if necessary, adjusting them to fit the dimensions of the ceiling;
8. secure in a checkerboard pattern using dowels;
9. attach a painting mesh to the surface and putty;

To insulate them, a polystyrene foam shell is used. Today, thanks to its reliability and durability, it is the most the best option. Expanded polystyrene shell is offered different diameters, which is very convenient, since you can select insulation for any pipes Ø from 17 mm to 1220 mm.

In the event of an accident, it is possible to quickly gain access to a certain place through special grooves, which will allow you to easily and quickly dismantle the insulation and then return everything to its place.

IMPORTANT! It has been confirmed that such insulation can protect the pipe for up to 50 years at temperatures down to -70°C.

• Window slopes

This method of insulating windows is used in buildings made of wood, lined with brick. Brick is cooler than wood, and temperature differences lead to condensation and freezing of windows, which deforms the window structure.

Stages of work:

1. cut polystyrene foam into strips 5-8 cm thick;
2. cover the external slopes around the window with them, which forms a spacing in relation to the internal slope;
3. after the glue has dried, install the window by mounting the fasteners to the wall and filling polyurethane foam cracks;
4. On the outside, the slopes must be plastered after the glue and foam have dried, which, after settling, will not allow cold air to pass through.

• Armopoyas

The insulation of the armored belt should be carried out with outside building. It is better to insulate directly during construction. A colored polystyrene foam board measuring 60x120cm is suitable for this:

1. cut the slab in half lengthwise and fix it on the wall;
2. Putty the joints with sealant and paint.

• Doors

The main heat loss occurs through the entrance doors. You can insulate the PPS as follows: wooden doors, and metal.

• Insulation of wooden doors:

1. cut a single piece from a sheet of polystyrene foam to the size of the wooden panel;
2. stick it on the door;
3. cover with sheathing material;
4. fill slats along the entire perimeter of the door leaf (the thickness of a sheet of polystyrene foam);
5. lay insulation between the slats with glue;
6. On top of the slats, fill the finish in the form of laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood.

• Insulation of metal doors:

IMPORTANT! Usually in the manufacture of metal doors they use sheet material, welded on the sides with corners, i.e. There are voids inside that should be filled from the inside for additional insulation.

1. take the dimensions (width and length) of the canvas along which the fiberboard panel will be cut to cover the layer of polystyrene foam;
2. transfer the dimensions of the door leaf onto fiberboard plywood, mark the location and dimensions of the handle and eyelet, cut openings for them;
3. to check that all marks are correct, you need to attach the panel directly to the door;
4. cut sheets of polystyrene foam using a sharp knife and glue them to the inside of the door leaf using silicone, which is applied in an even, dense layer over the entire surface;
5. keep in mind that the thickness of polystyrene foam is determined by the size of the corner shelf;
6. cover the insulation with a fiberboard panel, put the bit on a screwdriver and screw the fiberboard to the door leaf with self-tapping screws;

IMPORTANT! Stiffening rib metal door made of a hollow tube, in winter period she becomes frostbitten and a “refrigerator” effect is observed. You should fill it from the inside with polyurethane foam by drilling holes in the pipe with a drill, where the foam is poured.

• Basement

If the basement on the first floors is not properly designed, condensation may occur at low surface temperatures. Consequences: mold, mildew. The foundation needs to be insulated, even if a usable basement is not provided in the house.

Features of insulating a basement or cellar with polystyrene foam

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

1. not susceptible to rodent attacks;
2. not very fragile;
3. waterproof;
4. easy to process;
5. light weight, which eliminates additional load on supporting structures.

Disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam

1. will cost more;
2. flammable and toxic.

It is necessary to carry out all work on waterproofing and insulating the foundation or basement during the construction stage. If they are not done, during operation you should:

• create a drainage system;
• waterproof the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;
• insulate the basement inside and out.

Installation with expanded polystyrene

1. seal cracks and voids in the walls with polyurethane foam or sealant;
2. Irregularities that interfere with the fastening of the slabs should be plastered;
3. treat the walls with waterproofing material - liquid rubber, bitumen mastic, roll material;
4. Glue expanded polystyrene slabs onto the surface from bottom to top end-to-end, the next row is mounted on the previous one with the seams staggered;
5. secure additionally with dowels (5 pcs per workpiece);
6. foam the seams;
7. Treat the outside of the slabs with plaster. It is recommended to use fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the process;
8. apply penetrating waterproofing to the cellar ceiling;
9. glue the slabs and secure with dowel nails;
10. glue fiberglass mesh and plaster.

• For a foundation made of reinforced concrete slabs:

1. waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with bitumen mastic between the layers;
2. lay high-density polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam;
3. make a screed.

• For an earthen basement or cellar:

1. remove the turf and level the surface;
2. place waterproofing material;
3. sprinkle gravel-sand cushion, compact;
4. An alternative to a pillow would be expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture
5. lay insulation;
6. make a screed.

The basement is ready for finishing, for this they use paint, plaster, porcelain tiles.

Facade insulation

Work progress:

1. prepare the walls and prime them;
2. waterproofing of the base is carried out after it has dried; compositions based on epoxy resins are ideal for this;
3. glue and fix the plates with plastic dowels (both dry mixtures and glue in cylinders, for example, ST-84, are suitable for fastening polystyrene foam);
4. finish the façade with mesh using a reinforcing compound;
5. Any type of finishing is possible on top of the protective layer: decorative stone, siding, decorative plaster compositions.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the base, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam - it is stiffer.

Insulating the foundation of a house from the outside

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine what thickness of PPS will be sufficient to insulate the foundation.

Technology:

1. apply glue to the slab pointwise (in each corner and in the center from 6-8 points, diameter from 10-15 cm, thickness 1 cm);
2. after application, wait 1 minute, press the polystyrene foam to the base of the foundation;
3. insulation begins from the corner of the foundation from below;
4. the second row is fastened so that the center of the slab is located above the joint of the slabs of the 1st row;
5. fill the trench with sand to the middle of the slab;
6. compact the sand;
7. create an additional layer of thermal insulation at the corners of the foundation;
8. laying polystyrene foam on the base using glue;
9. fill the trench;
10. Make a blind area around the house: fill the area around the perimeter of the building with sand and crushed stone (gravel) and fill it with cement mortar.

Insulation of the blind area

As a rule, the blind area is made of concrete along the entire perimeter of the building. It is adjacent to the foundation and protects it from adverse atmospheric influences.

Advantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. frost resistance;
2. minimal water absorption;
3. resistance to mold and mildew;
4. excellent thermal insulation;
5. resistance to high temperatures;
6. light weight;
7. ease of installation.

Disadvantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. creates a favorable environment for the growth of fungi and mold;
2. fire hazard.

Most often, PPS is used to insulate the blind area:

• laying the material in one layer in sheets 100 mm thick or 50 mm in two layers;
• lay polyethylene over a layer of expanded polystyrene to waterproof the joints of the sheets high density(plantera, isostude).

• Wells

Protection of wells, especially in rural areas, is very important - water supply is necessary at any time of the year. It is imperative to insulate a well cover made of wood and fixed inside the structure itself.

The cover serves as protection against:

• temperature changes;
• snow and rain;
• ingress of dry leaves and other debris.

There are 3 thermal insulation technologies:

• thermal insulation of the upper ring;
• insulation of the structure cover;
• construction of a decorative house.

Work progress:

1. cut two shields in diameter;
2. wrap one in film and lower it into the well below ground level;
3. fix it on hangers;
4. Be sure to insulate the top with foam plastic;
5. the second shield is insulated in the same way and placed in the well 0.8m - 1.2m above the first;

• Floors

In a residential building, floors are divided into:

1. attics;
2. basement;
3. basement;
4. interfloor.

The cheapest PPS is suitable for thermal insulation of the floor slab, and the cracks are filled construction foam. Regarding wooden floors, That insulating material laid between wooden beams.

PPS can really insulate rooms for any purpose, including baths: the properties of the material are ideally preserved at 100% humidity. After insulation, a sheathing is usually installed metal profile or from timber under siding or other facing material, for example, corrugated board or panels.

An excellent option would be to insulate external walls with expanded polystyrene foam. Quite often, foam block walls are insulated with expanded polystyrene; the application technology is standard.

For thermal insulation of baths, “ventilated and “wet” facade technologies are used:

1. preparing walls and calculating the amount of insulation required;
2. installation of expanded polystyrene, when the sheets are glued end-to-end with a polyurethane, cement, or acrylic adhesive mixture;
3. large cracks are foamed with polyurethane foam;
4. installation of sheathing made of metal profiles or timber under siding or other facing material, for example, corrugated board or panels.

Warm plaster, which contains polystyrene foam granules, expanded clay chips, cement, sawdust, plasticizers, is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. In a bathhouse, as a rule, not only the walls outside and inside are insulated, but also the ceiling and floor.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is an eco-friendly material that does not absorb water and is not subject to rotting. They are equally good at insulating walls both outside and inside; the thickness is calculated.

When installing it, there is no need for additional waterproofing:

1. to secure the material to metal gates, a good one is needed assembly adhesive, designed specifically for such work. Quick-hardening liquid nails are quite suitable;
2. prepare sheets according to required sizes, and stick to the surface. It is advisable to seal the joints with foam;
3. create another layer from plastic panels, wooden planks or plywood.

Extruded polystyrene foam for home insulation

Today, extruded polystyrene foam is actively used for insulation of frame and wooden houses, as well as for insulating an apartment from the inside, where the only obstacle may be the thickness of the insulation.

The external method of installing thermal insulation is safer and more effective than insulating from the inside. When installing insulation inside an apartment, the area of ​​the room is reduced due to the thickness of the polystyrene foam. This also applies to the basement. small sizes.

The process of internal insulation is carried out strictly according to the technology of installing a thermal insulation system. The dew point shifts and condensation is possible on the walls, which forms mold; the thermal insulation layer and the supporting structures themselves are also destroyed.

If we consider the installation of insulation inside an apartment, then there is a reduction in area due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This problem also applies to the basement; if it is small, you are unlikely to like it if it becomes even smaller.

Insulation of walls from the inside with polystyrene foam

Self-insulation of a house or apartment is possible. Typically, internal insulation is carried out due to the impossibility of doing it outside, for example, if the room is of historical value.

Floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is also used for floor insulation without screed, directly onto foam boards:

1. lay a vapor barrier layer on the floors,
2. on top - polystyrene foam boards;
3. There is no need to install waterproofing; you can immediately install the floor covering.

In a garage or basement, in order to save money, a concrete floor is laid on top of the ground. And here it is important to insulate the lower part of the building efficiently, since high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation in winter will allow you to maintain a comfortable temperature.

Insulation of a wooden floor

When laying thermal insulation wooden floors preference is given natural materials. The flooring is mounted directly on concrete screed, then the wooden floor is insulated with polystyrene foam.

All work is carried out during the construction process: first, sand or gravel is poured, then logs are installed, and polystyrene foam slabs are placed between them (in the gaps). A screed is poured on top and a wooden floor is laid.

Insulation of concrete floor

The installation technology is in many ways similar to insulating a floor under a screed, only more labor-intensive. Do not forget that when insulating a concrete floor with polystyrene foam, as a rule, the height of the room is “eaten up”.

Sometimes such deviations are allowed:

• the thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm. The same value is left for the thickness of polystyrene foam;
• with a flat floor surface, you can install only insulation boards and gain a few desired centimeters.

Balcony insulation

Expanded polystyrene can really insulate a balcony or loggia. Both extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam will be equally good for this.

Installation of insulation:

1. Cut the PPS according to the size of the balcony walls and floors on which it will be laid;
2. treat the walls spotwise with an adhesive solution, retreating 5-7 mm from the edges;
3. press polystyrene foam insulation boards against the wall of the loggia;
4. apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the surface of the insulation;
5. additionally strengthen the material with plastic dowels - “mushrooms” (6-7 pieces per 1 m²);
6. apply a reinforcing mesh with a cell frequency of 5 mm on top, without recessing it into glue solution;
7. let the glue dry.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be done in several ways:

• flooring;
• gluing;
• investing in the sheathing;
• mechanical fastening.

IMPORTANT! Fastening methods can be combined.

Attic insulation

Owners of private houses are converting attic spaces under the attic, buildings with gable roof. Naturally, cold attic should be thermally insulated, for this purpose polystyrene foam boards are used.

Master Class:

Insulation of external walls with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene turned out to be an excellent insulation material for plastering the walls of houses, both outside and inside. But is it possible to insulate the outside of aerated concrete walls with it? And will such insulation be effective?

Features of aerated concrete walls

In the production of blocks containing sand, cement, limestone, special technology, which gives them good rigidity and thermal insulation qualities.

But why insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm? Worth it if you live in a cold northern area. Insulation of the outside of walls made of PPS aerated concrete is carried out as a temporary option or “economy” due to the poor permeability of the materials. These warnings also apply to the insulation of the foundation, bathhouse and basement.

• Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

How is the insulation of wooden and concrete floors carried out, on the ground, under a screed and without a screed? We discussed how floor insulation is carried out, for example, in a garage?

Watch the video:

Regarding laminate, this type of coating is becoming more and more popular every day due to its ease of installation. It is better to insulate the floor under the laminate, otherwise you will only be able to walk on it in slippers.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bathhouse is carried out after the construction of the building. Expanded clay, polystyrene foam and even glass bottles are often used as an insulating layer.

Installation sequence:

Half of the first floor always needs insulation, and a whole range of works aimed at insulating the floor is required. Moreover, it is advisable to carry out insulation of the floor above a cold attic from above, and thermal protection above the basement - from below.

First floor floor insulation scheme:

1. dismantling old floor coverings;
2. laying a vapor barrier layer;
3. PPS insulation;
4. laying a layer of polyethylene film;
5. reinforcing screed with cement mortar;
6. new topcoat.

The thickness of the insulation layer on the first floor should be at least 80-100 mm.

Some insulation features:

• Roofs

Of course, insulating the attic roof with PPS increases the service life of the roof. In terms of its characteristics, PPS is similar to polystyrene foam, but the technology for its use for roof insulation is different.

Insulating the attic with extruded polystyrene foam involves laying rafters on top to eliminate even the slightest gaps. Expanded polystyrene boards are made specifically with step-shaped joints or tongue-and-groove type joints.

• Roofs

The technology for insulating floors is similar to insulating a roof. The bottom layer in this case should be vapor barrier film, endowed with anti-condensation properties, and the top - waterproofing film. In case of water leakage, it is the film that will protect the insulation from waterlogging.

Expanded polystyrene boards are laid in the space between ceiling beams, while foaming the cracks.

• Base

The technology for insulating the basement of a house is quite simple, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

• Foundation

Complete thermal insulation of the foundation should consist of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The vertical section is PPS slabs mounted on the outer walls of the foundation strip, while the horizontal section should form a continuous belt along the perimeter of the building being constructed, as the technology provides.

The required insulation thickness is calculated using the formula. The technology also provides for insulation of the soil around the foundation, which is isolated from subzero temperatures insulated blind area, no more than a meter wide.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene from the inside

If you plan to use the loggia or balcony area exclusively for storing things, then one layer is enough to insulate the wall.

For external thermal insulation, sheets with a thickness of at least 50 mm are used.

• What is better for insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam?

The difference lies in the production technology. Polystyrene foam is produced by treating polystyrene granules with dry steam; during thermal expansion, they “adhere” to each other, which forms micropores.

Expanded polystyrene is made by the “extrusion” method: polystyrene granules melt, which promotes the formation of bonds at the molecular level, thus creating a single structure.

According to physical and technical specifications there are also differences.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene:

• strength;
• good permeability;
• high density.

If necessary inexpensive material, then it is more profitable to use foam plastic.

How to work with expanded polystyrene when insulating the wall of a building from the inside, its main advantages and disadvantages, how to prepare a wall for thermal insulation, stages of work.

The content of the article:

Insulating walls from the inside with polystyrene foam is one of the simplest and at the same time reliable ways to preserve heat in residential and non-residential premises. Every year, the price of thermal insulation services increases, but for many categories of our fellow citizens it is still in demand. Among the huge variety insulation materials Expanded polystyrene foam does not lose its relevance on the market, because each of us is familiar with it. Let's look at what other advantages it has, and also consider the features of its use in internal insulation walls

Features of thermal insulation of walls from the inside with polystyrene foam

The main problem in carrying out interior work can be called the phenomenon of increasing freezing of the insulated wall. This occurs due to the fact that the dew point, which acts as the center of condensation accumulation, moves to the inner edge of the structure, and sometimes even comes to the surface. The spread of condensation leads to the destruction of not only the finishing layer, but also the wall itself. The result is large heat losses and high humidity in the room.

Traditional polystyrene foam is produced by manufacturers in the form of even, smooth and dense sheets, the dimensions of which can be either 100 by 100 or 100 by 50 cm.

The installation of this material requires the utmost attention. But you still can’t get rid of the problem of joints. The main solution should be a tight fit as possible, and the ends of adjacent sheets are coated with sealant for a better connection to each other.

The master applies a solution to fix this material in a special way. Traditional cakes, which are suitable for external work, are not suitable for internal thermal insulation. They will lead to the appearance of gaps in which condensation will subsequently accumulate. Therefore, when it is necessary to insulate walls from the inside with polystyrene foam, apply glue mixture over the entire sheet and achieve its uniform distribution. This will ensure reliable adhesion to the wall surface.

In order to economically and correctly distribute the adhesive solution, we will use a special paint roller needle type. It seems to pierce the surface of the material, which gives more reliable connection. It is for this method of fastening that it is important to ideally prepare the working wall plane. Ordinary cement mortar is not very suitable for these purposes.

It is advisable to acquire mixtures that form a moisture-proof layer. The same applies to anchor fastenings - instead, you should prefer T-shaped profiles, which will be fixed not only to the floor, but also to the ceiling. This is necessary, especially in cases where mesh reinforcement will be used on top of the insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with polystyrene foam

Among the many advantages that insulating walls from the inside with polystyrene foam has, we will focus on the following:

• The cheapness of the material, which makes it accessible to a wide range of users.
• Its characteristics are not inferior to expensive and fashionable insulation materials.
• Polystyrene foam has excellent thermal insulation properties.
• Very simple and accessible in terms of installation.
• The material is lightweight.
• It is easy to join when insulating, simply removing the excess with a knife.
• Characterized by durability.
• Stably maintains a comfortable temperature.

And that is not all. Customers may wonder whether classic foam plastic is suitable for arranging a thermal insulation layer. Of course yes, but extruded polystyrene foam for insulating walls from the inside is superior to traditional polystyrene foam in its qualities: it has higher strength, is easy to install because it does not crumble and can be cut with ordinary sharp knife, is characterized by lower water absorption, which guarantees its long-term and efficient operation.

Among the negative qualities of such insulation, experts note the following:

1. Expanded polystyrene can be called, without exaggeration, a rather fragile material.
2. When insulating, they need to provide additional ventilation in the room.
3. The material should be protected from direct sunlight, the effect of which leads to its disintegration.
4. It is a flammable material and, in addition, releases toxic substances when ignited.

Despite the fact that, according to manufacturers, the operational period of expanded polystyrene can reach 10-20 years, much depends on compliance technological nuances when laying. If it was damaged in any way, the service life will immediately decrease.

One of the dangers is the appearance of fungal mold on the walls of rooms insulated with foam plastic. It serves as a source of allergic manifestations. This happens because the dew point moves to the middle of the wall, and behind it dampness and humidity come into the house.

The combustion of polystyrene foam results in the release of dangerous and toxic gas. Even though the material does not burn, it begins to melt under high temperature. This releases not only choking black smoke into the air, but also a gas called phosphene, which causes paralysis of the respiratory tract.

Technology of internal wall insulation with polystyrene foam

After you have chosen the technology for fastening polystyrene foam and calculated all the costs, you can begin insulation work. It is necessary to observe a number of nuances that may affect the quality of the finished coating. Experts do not recommend saving on materials or skipping individual works from the technological chain.

Preparatory work before insulating walls from inside

First of all, the wall that will be insulated must be leveled. Even an unqualified builder understands that uneven surface You should not expect high-quality fastening of the insulator and all subsequent layers. Ultimately, this will lead to heat loss and inefficient use of funds.

If we are talking about a newly built building, then the wall should first be plastered. After this, it is treated with primer paint and any irregularities are sealed with putty. In other cases, the same actions will be required, only without the obligatory application of plaster mortar.

It's a different matter when it comes to renovating a room. Before insulating the walls from the inside with polystyrene foam with your own hands, be sure to remove old paint or wallpaper. After this, each wall is carefully diagnosed to detect any recesses, cracks or concrete chips on it.

Any defects are eliminated with plaster mortar or store-bought putty. In some cases, you can resort to polyurethane foam. After this, the surface is carefully leveled. As soon as the working wall is completely level, it is again treated with primer paint.

However, before laying the foam sheets, we still need to take care of waterproofing. This is explained simply: in any case, when low temperatures air outside the building, moisture will pass through the wall and fall on the insulation; under its influence, polystyrene foam loses its characteristics, and over time it simply begins to rot. Waterproofing material will just serve as protection against moisture.

After the waterproofing is installed, the installation of insulation begins. If in former times its sheets were necessarily fastened using screws and dowels, then modern industry has simplified this process. There are special adhesive solutions that greatly facilitate installation work.

Thus, the basic requirements that must be met before thermal insulation begins:

• The surface should be as smooth and dry as possible.
• The wall must be separated from the thermal insulation layer by waterproofing and vapor barrier.
• The insulation itself should not have cracks, joints or any gaps.
• It must have the maximum permissible moisture resistance.

The tools you need to prepare include a knife, sandpaper, gloves, a hammer, a hammer drill, a pencil, a straight edge, and a container for diluting glue and other liquids.

Instructions for installing polystyrene foam on walls

You should start with calculations of the required material. The height of the walls is taken and multiplied by the width. From the resulting value, you need to subtract window and door openings, but add a small allowance in connection with the slopes. As for the type of insulator, it is not at all necessary to chase the thickest foam plastic. It will be enough to choose the 10-centimeter PSB-S-25.

As for glue, you should give preference to a special one that is designed for such materials. Although it is more expensive, it will be able to provide the necessary result, namely a heat insulator securely fixed to the wall. To carry out work on polystyrene foam reinforcement you will need separate variety glue, so you will also have to worry about this in advance.

From other materials and devices, we will need special umbrella dowels, which provide additional fastening to the wall. In terms of quantity, you need to take about 5 pieces for each attached sheet. The length of the fastener should be 2 times thicker than the thickness of the sheet itself. To reinforce glued polystyrene foam, you need to stock up on a mesh with 5 by 5 cm cells. Corners and slopes will be covered with special painting corners.

If such a cycle of work will be carried out for the first time, it is better to take care of a small excess of materials. This will protect you from the need for repeated trips to the store.

Do-it-yourself insulation of internal walls with polystyrene foam is carried out in the following order:

1. Taken new leaf material onto which a layer of glue approximately 10 mm thick is spread. The composition must be distributed evenly over the entire area.
2. It is necessary to glue the products to the wall in a checkerboard pattern, like laying bricks. The size of the gaps should be minimal.
3. After gluing, we will fasten the sheets with umbrella dowels. They are driven into each corner of the slab, and one is attached in the very center. This can be done for each glued product at once or for all of them. In this way, it is possible to achieve tight fixation of the heat insulator.
4. Now you can move on to the reinforcement stage. There is another rule here: in order for the mesh to hold well, it must be filled with a thick layer of glue. Before gluing, you can lightly moisten the wall by spraying it. For reinforcement, you should buy a mesh with a certain density, not less than 140 g/m2.
5. After you fix the mesh to the foam, it is smoothed over its entire area. Protective corners are attached to all corners of the product using the same glue.

Conduct all types insulation works necessary at a temperature of at least +5°C. Be sure to ensure that the wall is completely dry, as well as an acceptable level of humidity. At each stage, the surface must be dried, for which you can use heaters or heat guns, construction hair dryers.

Final finishing of a wall insulated with polystyrene foam

Making final appearance insulated wall - the last stage of the work. This process can be considered the most time-consuming and labor-intensive in the entire algorithm. Since one single layer of plastering is not enough, the work may be postponed to the next day. Last layer must be done as neatly and evenly as possible, since with its help we create the basis for high-quality finishing walls.

After the leveling layer has dried, it is sanded with sandpaper in order to eliminate all unevenness. The wall is coated with primer paint, which can ensure ideal adhesion between the heat insulator and the finishing coat.

Start off plastering work on an insulated wall, you should select a mixture that is designed to cover polystyrene foam materials. The most famous products include Ceresit, Worth, Ecomix. They are a universal mass that forms a protective layer on the insulation. The mixture is used not only for leveling the wall, but also for gluing the mesh. The material consumption will be approximately as follows: 4 kg per 1 m 2 for the mesh and 6 kg for the final protective layer.

The use of a mesh is necessary so that the leveling mass can adhere to the polystyrene foam surface. The denser the product, the stronger the entire structure will be, but it will be more difficult to paste over the corners. To glue the corners, we cut a strip of mesh as long as equal to length slope, and 30 cm wide. The universal mass is spread with a spatula on the corner, after which a piece of mesh is applied and carefully ironed.

To install the mesh, it is cut into pieces of approximately 1 meter. The mass is applied to work surface, the product is applied to it and smoothed from top to bottom, as well as in the direction from the center of the wall. During the smoothing process, you need to take a little mixture onto the spatula to completely cover the structure. Each vertical strip is glued in this way, and the joints are made according to the “overlapping” principle, so that each one partially overlaps the adjacent one.

After the mesh has dried, it is grouted. To do this, you will need a plastic grater with a piece of emery cloth attached to it. It is necessary to rub counterclockwise, using careful circular movements.

It remains to fix the leveling layer, for which we will use the same universal mixture. The mass is thrown onto the wall using a spatula, and its thickness should be approximately 3 mm. The dried finishing layer must be grouted, in the same way as in the case of the mesh.

Its grouting should be done no earlier than 24 hours, but no later than four days after application. It is at this stage that the surface becomes as smooth and even as possible. Now it can be painted with colored primer paint, based on the customer’s preferences.

How to insulate walls from the inside with polystyrene foam - watch the video:

To ensure heat in the house, not only the roof, but also the walls should be insulated.

There is a whole range of materials for wall insulation on the market.

Walls can be insulated both outside and inside.

When insulating the walls from the outside, the living space area is preserved, and insulation technology makes it possible to provide the building with warm and modern walls.

Before you start insulating the walls, you need to decide on the insulation method. Lay or - individual preference. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. The features of each insulation method must be studied at the time of building design.

Insulation from the inside

Internal wall insulation is characterized by the following features:

• the cost of insulation from the inside is less than that of external insulation;
• season and weather do not affect the choice of time for work;
• there is no need to build additional scaffolding for insulation work.

Negative factors for internal insulation are:

• significant reduction in living space;
• the outer wall is insulated from heating from the room;
• the likelihood of fungus forming inside the wall increases, since the dew point is formed precisely in the inner part of the structure;
• when the heating is turned off, the walls quickly cool down due to the low inertia of the insulation;
• the junction of the ceiling with the external wall cannot be equipped with insulation, which leads to the formation of cold bridges.

The method of insulating walls from the outside is more popular despite the fact that the cost of labor and materials for performing the work is significantly higher than the method of internal insulation.

Dew point

Insulation from outside

The advantage of insulating walls from the outside is:

• in winter and in cold weather, heat is retained in the wall for a long time;
• the design area of ​​the room is preserved;
• external thermal insulation protects interior walls from dampness.

Besides, external walls are additionally protected from weather conditions, which significantly increases the service life of the structure.

The main disadvantages of external thermal insulation of a structure are:

• restriction of work in accordance with weather conditions;
• increase in costs for materials used.

Which side of the wall to insulate with polystyrene foam?

It is advisable to insulate walls with expanded polystyrene from the outside, since the material does not allow air to pass through, which can lead to the formation of condensation inside the wall during internal insulation, and also inside the room the material can emit a specific odor.

Advantages and disadvantages of expanded polystyrene

The polystyrene foam material is porous and air-containing raw materials, is used in most cases as a heat-insulating material.

In industry, the material can also be used as electrical insulating and packaging material.

The material has become widely used due to its quality indicators:

• low level of water absorption;
• low thermal conductivity;
• ease;
• biological stability;
• durability;
• compressive strength;
• not affected by temperatures;
• ease of installation;
• low price of material.

Comparison of insulation materials

Despite the impressive list of positive indicators, Expanded polystyrene has disadvantages that must be taken into account during installation:

• low sound insulation;
• instability to solvents and many chemicals;
• afraid of fire. When burned, it releases harmful toxic substances;
• poor resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• easily susceptible to the influence of rodents and insects, which, by making holes in the material, provoke its destruction;
• low vapor permeability;
• fragility.

However, the production technology of these materials is different: expanded polystyrene is produced by the extrusion method, when the granules melt when combined into a single structure, polystyrene foam - by gluing the granules with dry steam.

Specifications

Types of expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is classified according to the method of production of the material and the inclusion of various additives in it:

• pressed polystyrene foam. Produced by pressing;
• pressless expanded polystyrene. Produced by removing moisture by drying and then foaming high temperatures;
• Not much different from pressless; an extruder is additionally used in production. The best and best option for thermal insulation of walls.

There are other types of polystyrene foam (extruded, autoclaved), but they are not used as insulation materials because they have different characteristics.

In addition to types of expanded polystyrene, there are also various types of insulation, such as:

Wall pie when using insulation - polystyrene foam on the outside

A wall pie refers to layers of materials that are laid in a certain order, each of which performs its own functions to ensure a normal microclimate in the room.

For thermal insulation brick walls polystyrene laid outside, The pie wall looks like this:

• interior plaster;
• outer wall;
• adhesive solution for gluing polystyrene foam;
• insulation (expanded polystyrene);
• adhesive solution for gluing the next layer;
• fiberglass mesh;
• adhesive composition;
• primer;
• finishing plaster.

NOTE!

When arranging a wall using polystyrene foam, It is necessary to lay the layers in strict sequence.

Internal and finishing plaster can be replaced with others finishing materials, which are provided for by design solutions.

Wall cake "wet"

Issues of vapor barrier and waterproofing

An important requirement during the construction and improvement of a house is the correct implementation of all work to ensure ventilation and waterproofing, since it is the incorrect installation of these components that significantly reduces the performance of the structure.

When insulating walls with polystyrene, waterproofing is not needed. It should be taken into account that if there is a high passage of groundwater under the building, it is necessary to waterproof the basement and foundation.

Since polystyrene foam does not allow air and water to pass through, there is no need to lay a vapor barrier layer when insulating walls from the outside.

Wall insulation cake under siding

Sealing cracks and preparing sheathing

Installation of polystyrene foam on the sheathing is the most labor-intensive process among insulation options. Most often, sheathing is done in the case of finishing siding.

Sealing cracks

If you plan to install siding on the wall of a house made of beams, you must first seal the seams properly, clean the surface of dust and debris, and seal the cracks with sealants, polyurethane foam, or a mixture of sawdust and PVA.

If the wall is concrete, brick or foam blocks, then cracks in such houses are cleaned of sand, treated with a primer, then sealed as follows:

• if there is a small gap. Using a prepared mixture of cement and sand with the addition of PVA, seal the gap with a spatula;
• if the gap is medium size. Make holes for dowels at a distance of 20 cm. Using screws and washers, tighten metal mesh in place of the crack and seal it by pressing it into the mesh with plaster. Next apply the finishing layer;
• P ri big crack. Seal the gap with polyurethane foam, cut off any irregularities and seal it with two layers of plaster.

Large cracks can be repaired using anchors:

• knock down the plaster, seal the cracks with polyurethane foam;
• install a channel in the opening and attach a reinforcing mesh to it;
• you can use staples made of reinforcing mesh;
• apply plaster;
• putty.

Sealing cracks

When the wall is prepared for laying insulation, you can install the sheathing.

Preparing the sheathing

The sheathing for siding can be made of metal profiles and wooden beam . In humid climates, it is advisable to install metal slats.

Before you begin installing the sheathing, you should determine the location of the siding:

• with horizontal siding. The beam or metal profile is installed perpendicularly;
• with vertical siding. Frame boards or metal profiles are installed in a horizontal position.

The pitch of the sheathing is determined by the width of the polystyrene foam sheet: in width it should fit tightly between the sheathing slats and not form gaps.

The order of work is determined in steps:

• treat the wall with special mastic;
• frame boards are secured around the entire perimeter of the walls using galvanized screws and plastic dowels;
• if holes form between the timber and the wall, these gaps are sealed with pieces of polystyrene foam by gluing them to the wall.

CAREFULLY!

If the sheathing is made of wood, the boards must be pre-treated with antiseptic agents.

Lathing does not require special skills, but it should be noted that the choice of materials should be made based on climate conditions.

Lathing for siding

Wooden sheathing

Technology of wall insulation with polystyrene from the outside

Before you begin insulating the wall with polystyrene foam, you should dismantle the gutters, decorative elements, clean and prime the wall. Next, insulate the sills and window slopes.

Now let's talk about the thickness of polystyrene foam.

NOTE!

When insulating walls with extruded polystyrene, use sheets whose thickness ranges from 80 to 100 mm and more.

You can also use thinner sheets 30-40 mm thick if laid in two layers.

Let's start installing insulation on the walls with our own hands:

• a profile is installed at the bottom of the wall to hold polystyrene foam;
• the adhesive mixture is applied to the wall over the entire area in spots and onto the insulation sheet (amply on the center and edges of the sheet);
• tightly attach the sheet for gluing to the wall;
• Use dowels to secure the panel so that the dowel penetrates the wall at least 50 mm. The dowels are placed in the center of the panel and at the joints. It is recommended to use plastic nails;
• if gaps form (up to 2 cm), then they are sealed with mounting foam, if the gaps are larger, then they are first sealed with pieces of insulation, and then foamed. Excess foam is cut off;
• The heads of plastic nails are cleaned and puttied.

After installing the insulation, a reinforcing mesh is applied to the facade. You should cut strips of mesh into the corners and slopes and glue them with an adhesive using a spatula. An adhesive composition is applied to the mesh along the wall so that it penetrates 0.1 cm through the mesh onto the polystyrene foam. If an overlap occurs, separate strips of mesh are placed on it and additionally glued.

Sectional view of the device

Fastening slabs with dowels

Application of assembly adhesive

After the surface has completely dried, it is leveled with fine granulation sandpaper.

Useful video

Detailed video instructions for insulating walls with extruded polystyrene foam:

In contact with

In order to live in a wooden frame house, one could live comfortably not only in summer season, but also year-round, you will need high-quality insulation walls of the house. It is best to insulate the walls with expanded polystyrene (penoplex). It’s worth saying right away that penoplex and polyurethane foam are the same thing, they’re just a type of polystyrene foam. It is interesting that such material can be used for both frame and brick house, and the fastening of the insulation is carried out in the same way both there and there.

Features, pros and cons of the “wet” and “dry” method of insulating a frame house

As you might guess, insulating walls with polystyrene foam using the “dry” method assumes that the insulation will be applied immediately during the construction of the house, and the voids will be filled using the dry method.

This method has one significant drawback: dust particles that fly off from the insulation can subsequently have a harmful effect on human health. Penoplex and polyurethane themselves are safe materials and will not cause harm to humans, but it is still worth being careful.

Scheme for insulating a house made of timber using penoplex

Typically, “dry” polyurethane foam is applied when construction deadlines are running out and the installation of insulation for a frame or brick house needs to be done as quickly as possible.

As for a brick structure specifically, thermal insulation with penoplex is usually carried out “wet”. What is meant by it?

Penoplex is first installed in the grooves of the walls, and then it needs to dry for 2-3 days.

If weather conditions are unfavorable, it may well take longer. Of course, in conditions of extremely tight deadlines for the construction of a brick or frame house, such deadlines are a very big disadvantage.

In general, here you need to choose: either install penoplex in a “dry” way and save time, or vice versa. But in any case, even from a purely technological point of view, “wet” thermal insulation with penoplex is preferable to “dry”. This must be taken into account.

Diagram of dry insulation of a frame house

Preparing walls for insulation with expanded polystyrene Preparing the wall - the most important stage

. It involves the following work:

1. The walls of a frame house must be well prepared before insulation.
2. After plastering, there is no need to rush into laying penoplex: the thermal insulation should adhere to the wall as best as possible. To do this, the surface of the latter should be slightly rough, in this case the material will lie better than if the wall is completely flat. Moreover, it must be taken into account that polyurethane foam cannot simply be inserted into the lathing of the facade of a brick or frame wooden house, as is the case with other types of material: it will be mounted using a special glue. Naturally, gluing insulation to a smooth, glossy wall surface will be more problematic than a non-rough surface;
3. If the outside walls of the building were painted coloring composition, which has zero vapor permeability, the layer of such paint must be completely cleaned (when insulating the surface of a wooden frame or brick house with penoplex, the vapor barrier must be carefully monitored). After the paint layer has been cleaned, the surface must be primed (primer on any construction market literally costs a penny, so you definitely shouldn’t feel sorry for it). By the way, if we are talking about the internal insulation of a frame or brick house, then priming the walls will no longer be necessary. But in any case, you shouldn’t forget about vapor barrier;
4. Checking whether the surface needs additional priming is quite simple: you need to run your palm over the surface. If a chalky mark remains on your hand, then the surface must be primed again. Here, one might say, the following rule applies: there is never too much primer. Especially when it comes to the walls of a brick or frame house. And penoplex insulation itself, as noted above, does not imply fastening: only glue;
5. If at manual contact If the surface crumbles, even if only slightly, then the surface must be cleaned again using a regular brush, and then, again, a layer of primer must be applied. Shedding is a fairly serious problem that can lead to trouble later.

After stripping the surface of paint, it must be primed.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam

Insulation with polystyrene foam may involve fastening the material in the following ways:

First use glue:

After gluing the slabs, it is necessary to pause for at least 3 days so that the tile adhesive sets as securely as possible. By and large, maintaining such a period of time is not a problem: it is unlikely that a person can quickly cover all the outer walls of a building on his own.

After the glue has set, you can begin to additionally fasten the insulation with dowels. The number of dowels is easy to calculate: for each meter square area There should be at least 5 pieces of dowels per wall.

As for the length of the dowels, the rule also applies here: they must enter the wall with their main part (to the cap) at least 5 centimeters. Less is not possible, since the tiles of thermal insulation material can simply slide off.

In this case, it is not recommended to use dowels at all: let the insulation be held on by glue alone. The dowels themselves should be located in the center with a slight indentation.

What else you need to know when insulating a house with polystyrene foam:

Possible errors during insulation

Reinforcing mesh must be laid on foam plastic

The most main mistake that people make when insulating houses is the absence of a reinforcing mesh between installed insulation and decorative part of the walls. Its presence is a guarantee that the thermal insulation material will last for a long time, and will perform all its assigned functions.

The mesh must be selected with a density of 140 to 160 grams per 1 square meter. In this case we are talking about frame houses, and not any others.

It should also be covered with a second layer on top. adhesive composition, and the surface itself should also be almost perfectly flat. Here you can talk about several important nuances:

• The vertical stripes of the mesh may not overlap, but the horizontal ones do, and the overlap should be no more than 10 centimeters;
• The corners of the facade must be strengthened, for which either perforated plastic or a corner is used (if the corner is metal, then it must be galvanized to avoid corrosion in the future).

Another common mistake is that the insulation of the walls of a house is carried out very quickly, in a hurry. This is often expressed in the fact that the glue is simply not allowed to dry completely and properly “grab” both the insulation itself and the walls of the building.

To strengthen the corners of the facade, perforated plastic is usually used.

Insulation of walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene must necessarily require exposure adhesive base a minimum of 3 days is a law, not a rule.

The insulation for walls, polystyrene foam itself, is very good material, but its incorrect use can ruin all the work, especially if we are talking about a wooden house.

Diagram of the principle of operation of insulation in the wall of a house

Concerning finishing, then it can be very different. Today, for example, decorative plaster is often used. Of course, you cannot immediately apply plaster to the insulation: the above-mentioned reinforcing mesh must be available.

You shouldn’t forget about the primer in this case either. In general, any subsequent stage of external insulation of the walls of a house should always involve a primer. If you do not use it, the wall will begin to crumble over time, the insulation will quickly become unusable, and all work will need to be done again.

On the other hand, initially you need to carefully calculate everything: any material for such work, its quantity, must be calculated with a margin of 10-15%.

If then there is not enough material, then all work will have to be stopped.

Video