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Insulate the frame house with mineral wool. Insulating a frame house: where to start and what material to choose? Insulating the walls of a frame house with cotton wool

To do this, the surface of the walls of the house, both outside and inside, is covered with a vapor barrier film, and then the resulting cake is supplemented with a layer of plasterboard or lining.

Thus, insulation frame walls DIY process occurs in several stages, as required by the technology. The resulting pie can be saturated from the inside with extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

To prevent the formation of cold bridges when laying frame insulation made with your own hands, followed by overlapping the resulting joining seams and the entire previous layer, which forms the pie on the outside.

After the insulation has been installed outside with your own hands, it is best to cover the outer layer with polystyrene foam or cotton wool, and put a windproof membrane on top, which can be secured with a stapler.

The resulting insulation cake of the frame structure is covered with lathing on the outside; it is needed to hold the insulation as in the case.

It is best to make the lathing yourself from a material such as wood. The sheathing will not only hold the insulation, but will also form a ventilation gap inside the frame facade, which will be located between the membrane and the sheathing located outside.

The insulation of a frame structure can be carried out either with polystyrene foam or with mineral wool. In order to insulate the surface frame house, you can use not only polystyrene foam or cotton wool, but also choose an alternative material for insulation

2 Types of mineral wool for insulating a frame house

Before choosing mineral wool for insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with its main types, their features and characteristics. Now wool for insulation has three varieties, these are:

• Glass wool;
• Slag;
• Stone (basalt) wool.

If you are going to choose glass wool to insulate a frame structure, then keep in mind that the thickness of its fibers is 5-15 microns with a length of 15-50 mm.

Thanks to such fibers, glass wool is quite elastic and durable. When insulating walls using glass wool, you should take care in advance of the availability of funds personal protection– gloves, thick overalls and a respirator. Mineral wool made using fiberglass will differ:

• The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.052 watts per meter per Kelvin as at;
• Permissible heating temperature of +500 degrees Celsius;
• The permissible cooling temperature is -60 degrees Celsius.

Slag wool is made using blast furnace slag. The thickness of its fibers can reach 12 microns, with a length of 16 mm.

Due to the fact that slags have residual acidity, being in a damp room, they can affect metal surfaces with a high degree of aggressiveness.

Slag wool has a tendency to absorb excessive moisture. Because of this, it is not very well suited for providing thermal insulation for the facades of frame buildings.

The material has a high degree of fragility, therefore, if you pick it up in your hands, it will prick. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this substance is 0.48 watts per meter per Kelvin, and the maximum permissible temperature heating is +300 degrees Celsius.

The level of hygroscopicity of slag wool is quite high and this is an example. Stone wool has approximately the same fibers as slag wool.

However, compared to polystyrene foam, it has several undeniable advantages. The fibers of stone (basalt) wool do not prick, so it is quite safe to work with it.

Thermal conductivity index basalt wool equal to up to 0.12 watts, at a maximum heating temperature of +600 degrees Celsius. Basalt wool is made using diabase, but the structure of this insulation also contains substances such as:

• Clay;
• Limestone;
• Dolomite.

Basalt wool also contains formaldehyde resins. As the volume of such substances decreases, the material becomes less resistant to moisture, but at the same time the likelihood of evaporation harmful substances decreases significantly.

Basalt wool is also characterized by the fact that it does not contain additional elements. This insulation is capable of withstanding a temperature increase of +1000 degrees Celsius, with a maximum cooling threshold of up to -190 degrees.

Fiber made from basalt wool is in most cases presented in the form of rolls, and sheet material Convenient for filling mats. The flammability of this substance is minimal; the fibers do not catch fire, but only melt.

2.1 Which cotton wool is most suitable?

Any of the modifications of the presented insulation is highly hygroscopic. Therefore, if moisture gets behind the surface of the frame sheathing, mineral wool immediately loses all its thermal insulation benefits.

In this case, it becomes wet and caking, as during application. A section of the wall turns out to be open and water begins to flow through it. cold air.

To avoid such consequences, modern developers actively use for insulation frame buildings mineral wool, which is in a protective polyethylene sheath.

In order to insulate walls in a frame house, it is best to give preference to tiled materials rather than those packaged in rolls.

It is quite convenient to work with such insulation; it will not slip or caulk. The material, which contains a fair amount of phenol-formaldehyde resins, has a high degree of resistance to constant exposure to moisture.

The material stuffed with small fibers is distinguished by its high thermal insulation properties. It is recommended to use mineral wool with a thicker layer.

2.2 Stages of insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool should be placed in the spaces between the frame posts. In this case, it is important to take into account the value of the distance so that between the tiled or roll material there was no gap.

The same applies to the space between the supports. During installation work, it is strictly forbidden to press cotton wool, as this will significantly reduce its thermal insulation ability. This is directly related to the reduction in layer thickness.

The main reason lies in the structural features insulation material. Inside it air masses act as a heat accumulator, and as a result of compression of the fibers, the number of cavities in which air can be retained is significantly reduced.

Roll-type insulation is attached to the inside of the sheathing using staples or a construction stapler.

In this case, the intervals should be equal, but the distance between them should be no more than 30 centimeters.

In cases where mineral wool is used, walls and ceilings acquire reliable and high-quality vapor barrier.

In addition, in order to improve its characteristics, it would be rational to use breathable membranes. The use of polyethylene is not recommended, since due to a sharp temperature change, condensation will begin to form on its surface.

The walls of a frame house should be insulated from the inside. Cotton wool is laid on the ceilings using boards. Plates of material should not be placed end to end to prevent deformation. internal structure material.

When using insulation boards enclosed in a polyethylene shell, care must be taken to ensure that its tightness and integrity are not compromised.

2.3 Insulating the walls of a frame house using mineral wool (video)

Frame houses differ from others in the design of their external walls. There is no basic building material like brick or wooden houses, and thermal insulation does not apply as a second layer using the hinged or wet facade. And insulating a frame house with mineral wool can be considered as an on-site assembly of a sandwich panel with insulation in the middle and thin-sheet sheathing.

Features of insulation of a frame house

The insulation of any building must be comprehensive - from the foundation to the roof. Frame houses are no exception.

Only A complex approach to insulation will give a real effect

These are lightweight houses that do not require a strong foundation, and if the project does not include a basement or ground floor, then in most cases they install pile foundation. And in order to reduce heat loss through it, an insulated enclosure (basement) is installed.

Typically, the insulation of the floor of a frame house takes place according to the traditional scheme, in which the load-bearing elements are wooden beams ceilings and logs, and mineral wool is installed between them. To prevent the insulation from “falling out”, it is held from below by a sheet of boards (as an alternative, a mesh is used). A subfloor is laid on top as a base for the finishing coating.

Insulation of frame walls with mineral wool occurs according to the following scheme: it is placed between racks and spacers, which are sheathed with sheet materials or boards. The cross-section of the timber for the racks determines the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but this condition is not the main one when choosing the size of the load-bearing elements. To strengthen the walls of a frame house, especially a one-story one, a rack with a cross section of 50x150 mm is sufficient. For southern regions with “mild” winters, this thickness of mineral wool is quite enough. But for other regions it is not enough.

Scheme of a frame wall with timber 150 mm high

The use of timber with a height of 200 mm is often excessive in terms of the load-bearing properties of the frame, and in such cases it is more economical to perform additional external insulation.

Important! What thickness of layers of mineral wool is needed to insulate a house can only be shown by a calculation carried out on the basis of the current standard, taking into account the characteristics of the region and the properties of all enclosing surfaces

Roof insulation depends on the nature of use attic space. Non-residential, or “cold”, attics are insulated only along the ceiling. For attics and used attics in which they install engineering equipment(for example, hydraulic accumulators, ventilation and cooling systems), the roof itself is insulated.

From the point of view of thermal engineering, the walls of a frame house are single-layer. In order for them to become three-layer (structural material/insulation/structural material), the thickness of the outer layers of the enclosing surface must be more than 50 mm with a ratio of at least 1/1.25 to the thickness of the insulation (clause 8.11 SP 23-101-2004) . But in reality, the structure of the walls of a frame house contains 5 main layers, not counting the finishing of the facade and interior. Place between the sheathing and thermal insulation vapor barrier film(from the room side) and a waterproofing membrane (from the street side). And this arrangement is dictated by the properties of mineral wool.

Thanks to this property, it is even used in fireproof structures - doors and partitions.

For wooden structures this quality is important, therefore mineral wool is the main type of thermal insulation for floors on joists, pitched roofs and walls frame houses. Although mineral wool “loses” in terms of thermal insulation properties to foam plastic (expanded polystyrene) and penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its ability to absorb water. The fiber itself does not get wet, but the structure of the material contributes to this. And when it gets wet, the thermal insulation properties of the material are lost and conditions for rotting of the wooden structure appear. To compensate for this disadvantage, two additional layers are used:

• to prevent the penetration of water vapor from warm air from inside the heated room - vapor barrier;
• to protect against water ingress from the facade and weathering of excess moisture - waterproofing membranes.

What kind of mineral wool is used to insulate a frame house?

The term "mineral" covers three different materials: glass wool, slag wool and stone wool. For insulation of residential buildings, including frame ones, the latter option is used.

Glass wool is fragile, and during installation it creates a fine “dust” of broken fibers, which poses a danger not only to workers, but also to residents. Slag wool has low environmental qualities.

Mineral wool for a frame house can have different densities depending on the type of insulated surface and the insulation method.

The range of mineral wool is so wide that it can be used to insulate any enclosing surfaces and structures

Important! Stone wool is a special material. Its thermal conductivity does not directly depend on density - the structure and production technology are important. Therefore, rigid boards or mats may have higher thermal insulation properties than soft rolled materials.

According to the type of enclosing surface used the following types materials:

• rigid slabs - concrete floor on the ground, reinforced concrete floor on strip foundation above the basement or ground floor(for styling floor tiles);
• semi-rigid slabs and mats - frame walls, attic or roof of a used attic;
• mats and rolls - wooden floors on joists and ceilings.

Note. When choosing the density of mineral wool for the walls of a frame house, there are certain restrictions. For “internal” insulation, materials with a density of 35-50 kg/m 3 are recommended, for external insulation (using ventilated facade technology) - at least 80-90 kg/m 3 . For wooden floors and there are no such restrictions on ceilings; you can use mineral wool of any density, and the main criterion is how much such insulation costs.

Description of the insulation process

When insulating with mineral wool different types The enclosing surfaces of a frame house use their own insulation scheme. But just like for frame walls, one thing applies general rule- vapor barrier of insulation is carried out from the side of the heated room.

The vapor barrier is laid in a continuous layer without “gaps” between the insulated surfaces

Floor slab above basement

In the case when the frame house project includes a basement, a strip foundation is used as the foundation.

Standard scheme insulation concrete floor first floor with mineral wool for laying floor tiles looks like this:

1. Level the surface of the slab using a screed.
2. Lay a waterproofing layer.
3. Rigid slabs of mineral wool (density from 150 kg/m3) are laid.
4. Cover the insulation with a continuous layer of vapor barrier film.
5. A cement-sand screed is poured as a subfloor.
6. Install the floor covering.

Note. To lay parquet, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are additionally attached over the screed.

Insulated concrete floors on the ground have a similar structure.

Scheme of insulation of a concrete floor on the ground

When installing a wooden subfloor, the insulation scheme looks like this:

1. Overlap.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Lags.
4. Mineral wool between joists.
5. Vapor barrier.
6. Boards or plywood as a base for the finishing coating.

Wooden floor of the first floor

The traditional wooden floor plan looks like this:

1. Load-bearing floor beams resting on the foundation (beam of the bottom frame on the grillage or plinth of the strip base).
2. Additional logs and crossbars, which are installed taking into account the area of ​​the room and the thickness of the subfloor boards.
3. Skull bars fixed at the bottom of beams, joists and cross members.
4. Board sheathing to support the waterproofing of the insulation.
5. Waterproofing membrane.
6. Mineral wool laid between the ceiling elements.
7. Vapor barrier.
8. Rough floor.

If the height of the subfloor allows you to install the lining from below, then you can do without a cranial block

Note. There are other insulation schemes. For example, they use a mesh that allows you to fully use the entire volume of the floor for insulation. Or installing an additional counter-lattice and another layer of floor insulation for frame houses in regions with cold winters.

Insulation of the facade of a frame house

External insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is usually carried out according to the ventilated facade scheme:

1. Install the sheathing for laying the insulation. The height of the cross-section of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool; the layout step is chosen 5 cm less than its width.
2. Mineral wool mats are laid and fixed to the sheathing.
3. A layer of waterproofing windproof membrane is attached.
4. Install the counter-lattice. The height of the bar must be at least 6 cm (SNiP requirements for the size of the ventilated gap).
5. The walls are covered with façade panels.

One of the options for a double layer of thermal insulation - internal (between the racks) and external (along the sheathing)

Insulating a cold attic

In this case, it is not the roof that is insulated, but the wooden floor. And the vapor barrier is laid in such a way as to protect not only the mineral wool, but also the wooden beams from getting wet. The classic scheme looks like this:

1. A false ceiling is mounted along the floor beams, to which a vapor barrier is attached underneath in a continuous layer. These can be either anti-condensation or reflective vapor-proof materials.
2. Between the beams, from the attic side, on false ceiling lay mineral wool.
3. A waterproofing membrane is attached to the beams.

Note. According to standards, waterproofing of cold attic insulation is recommended only along the perimeter with a width of at least 1 m.

1. If the thickness of the insulation occupies the entire “internal” volume of the floor, then spacer slats are mounted on top of the beams to create a ventilated gap.
2. The floor is mounted on beams (or spacer slats).

Roof insulation

Thermal insulation of the roof can take place according to two main schemes:

• With one ventilated gap between the waterproofing and the roof. A superdiffusion membrane is used, which is laid directly on top of the insulation.
• With two ventilated gaps. The first is between the insulation and waterproofing film, the second - between the film and the roof. It is applied for metal roofing when waterproofing materials with limited vapor permeability are used.

Standard scheme of an insulated roof with waterproofing membrane and one ventilated gap

The structure of the insulated roof from the attic (attic) side looks like this:

1. Internal lining secured to sheathing.
2. Vapor barrier.
3. Insulation placed between the rafter legs.
4. Waterproofing fixed to the rafters (one ventilated gap) or to the spacer batten (two ventilated gaps).
5. Lathing for roof installation.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order to insulate a frame house. The client took up self-construction this building, but during the process of work I decided to immediately adapt a country house for year-round living. He didn’t know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic country cottage, built according to frame technology.

Choosing a location for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the thermal insulation layer - outside or inside. I prefer external insulation, but in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two mentioned options. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision yourself.

External	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation cake will be placed on the outside of the living space, therefore, during construction work the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	When installing internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishing of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, carry out finishing from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the point of moisture condensation inside the wall, as a result of which the enclosing structure becomes moist, which significantly reduces its service life.
A wooden wall, which is in direct contact with the warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous freeze and thaw cycles, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can only be used when insulating a very old house: installed insulating material from the inside will avoid dismantling exterior finishing, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I have encountered situations where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter cold. And we had to install additional ones - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let’s figure out what is the best way to insulate a frame house from the outside.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Taking into account the specifics wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select insulation taking into account the following requirements:

1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not emit hazardous substances into the air chemical compounds even if it heats up during operation.
2. The material must have fire properties– will not ignite under the influence of fire and will not contribute to further spread of the flame. It is also advisable to select insulation that during a fire does not emit a large amount of smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
3. It is better to select insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. Optimal thickness– no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the timber usually used to construct the frame).
4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame should fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of constructing a frame house, you need to buy insulation that can be easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is price. Considering the total estimated cost of constructing a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select such insulation that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest thing to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation– mats based on fibers made from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The thermal conductivity coefficient λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W/(m*K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal calculations show that for central Russia energy efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Non-flammability	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins that glue the mats together have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture outside.
Light weight	After installation, the insulation places virtually no additional load on the enclosing structures, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats suitable size They are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without requiring additional sheathing, fittings or the use of “wet” construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. For work I use products from TechnoNIKOL or Rockwool.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the outside and inside of a house.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we have decided that it will be basalt fiber), we will need a lot of different materials:

• OSB boards for internal and external cladding of the load-bearing frame of the walls of a home;
• wooden beams 30 by 50 mm for arranging counter-lattice and ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the decorative finish;
• hydro- and windproof membrane– a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
• internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on polyethylene foam (for example, penofol) to increase the operating efficiency of heating devices;
• block house, with the help of which the external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
• eurolining, which I will use to cover the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I won’t dwell on which tools to use. You will understand in the course of further presentation.

Insulation process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate frame house For winter accommodation. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I’ll say right away that in my case the frame of the house has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the home for installation inside heat-insulating material. I do this in the following sequence:

1. I cleanse wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden facing materials, therefore, contamination can negatively affect the integrity of the structure, efficiency and service life of the insulating layer. You can clean the wood using a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

1. I repair damaged frame parts. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I insulated new house under construction. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

1. I install engineering communications. If hidden installation of engineering systems is planned, then it is better to do this before covering the walls with decorative material. There are several features that I want to mention:

• All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable channels, which protect the insulating layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
• During installation water pipes there shouldn't be any inside the wall detachable connections which may weaken and leak over time.

1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. For this it is better to use universal composition(for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on the supporting frame of the home and gives the wood fire-fighting properties. Wood must be treated with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the interior cladding, I will use OSB boards and a vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of polished aluminum foil. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. I cover the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. The vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
   • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces the right size according to pre-made drawings.
   • The parts must be made in such a size that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which the moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
   • The sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent screws should not exceed 20 cm.
   • The cladding seams should be staggered and offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allows them to avoid warping of the surface when changing the size of the base.

1. I am installing vapor barrier material. As I already said, its role will be played by penofol - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
   • The material should be placed on OSB sheets with the reflective layer facing outward, and then secured to the panels using a construction stapler or nails with wide heads.
   • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.
   • To seal the seams, double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulating layer.

1. I'm installing counter rails. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap between the foil and finishing cladding. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally depending on how you will secure it decorative material(in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards using self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

1. I secure the paneling on counter slats. I have already described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard once, so I will not go into detail. I will only say that it is better to install lamellas on clamps, thanks to which changes in the dimensions of the eurolining during operation are compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra slabs are best suited for thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have low coefficient thermal conductivity, therefore, for insulation, two layers of mineral mats of 5 cm each are sufficient.

Another advantage is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between supports of 60 cm. This is exactly the width of the insulation slab. Therefore, there is practically no need for pruning. Thanks to this, expensive material is used with maximum efficiency.

1. I am installing the first layer of insulation. As I already said, the width of the slabs exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame beams, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened out, the mineral mat will firmly occupy the place intended for it. Let me draw your attention to a few nuances:

• The mineral mat cannot be fixed to the internal OSB board. Otherwise, using a self-tapping screw can damage the layer of penofol that is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
• Trimming the slabs, if necessary, is done using a sharp utility knife or a saw with fine teeth.
• After installing all the slabs, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the slabs with polyurethane glue from a can. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats together, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

1. I am installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run apart. The remaining rules are the same as in point 1. Do not forget to fill the seams between the slabs with polyurethane foam. After final hardening, the excess will need to be cut off with a sharp blade.

1. I install insulation into structural elements of complex shape. It is imperative to insulate all sections of the walls. Particularly difficult are usually the bevels, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the thermal insulation process is not yet over. External thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 — Installation of water and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences Usually a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is this:

1. A film is laid over the insulation layer. The material is secured to the frame beams using staples and a construction stapler. You can use carnations with wide heads:
   • Work should begin from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving upward.
   • The film panels must be placed horizontally.
   • Each subsequent sheet should overlap the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.

1. I seal the joints between the individual sheets. To do this, use adhesive tape, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, you should get a completely sealed sheet that protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
2. I'm stuffing on polymer membrane counter batten slats. Here, a ventilation gap is simply required, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and secured to the frame using self-tapping screws.

1. I attach OSB boards to the slats. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about interior lining frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell in detail at this stage.

Step 5 - Finishing

Technology decorative finishing The design of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case it will be a block house, individual parts which must be secured to OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, you can not use OSB boards at all, but attach the slats to a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To frame house It was comfortable to stay in winter; it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the thermal energy losses occur through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly tell you how to thermally insulate this surface:

1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The backing will not experience a large load, so it is enough to secure the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances on the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the backing.
2. Secure penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about the technology of wall insulation.
3. Screw the sheathing bars. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the overall thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
4. Decorate the ceiling surface with clapboard. It is attached with clamps or self-tapping screws.
5. Install insulation from the attic side. Mineral wool is placed in the spaces between the beams attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is insulating the floor with your own hands. The technology is practically no different from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

• the vapor barrier film is placed on the side of the living room, and the waterproofing is below;
• as flooring a tongue and groove board is used, which is placed on the counter-lattice;
• if it is impossible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be laid on the cranial bars, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read separate material, dedicated to thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above talks about the thermal insulation of a wooden home from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

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Frame houses are distinguished not only by practicality, but also by attractive external characteristics. This perfect option for those who want to acquire inexpensive but comfortable housing. Today we will talk about insulating a frame house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

Design Features

There are two main methods of constructing frame buildings:

1. frame-panel (buildings are assembled directly at the factory with ready-made elements);
2. frame-frame (all elements are prepared and assembled at the construction site).

In cross-section, the wall of a frame house looks like a multi-layer cake (this can be seen in the image above). It is also worth noting that the frames themselves can be of two types:

1. wooden;
2. metal.

For a long time, wood has been the main building material, and no wonder - it is cheap, durable, lightweight, easy to process and has excellent thermal conductivity. Metal structures are erected from perforated steel profiles, mostly galvanized (this prolongs service life up to one hundred years).

Now - directly to the process of insulating a frame house!

Stage one. Choosing a material for insulating a frame house

After it's ready Basic structure, you need to start thermal insulation, and here, of course, there are a lot of questions. And the main one is the choice of suitable material. There are quite a lot of them, but the most popular are polystyrene foam, basalt, eco- and glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam, materials that are sprayed or filled. It would seem that the choice is quite wide, but not all of the described insulation materials are suitable for a frame building.

For example, expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam are not suitable because if they are placed tightly in the inter-frame voids, then the structure itself will increase in volume in the future or shrink due to natural properties wood, which causes cracks to form between the thermal insulator and the frame. It is quite obvious that thermal energy will escape through these cracks, and the insulating material itself will no longer be effective. Therefore, a thermal insulator suitable for us must be elastic: even if the shape of the frame changes, there will still be no gaps, since the freed-up space will be filled with this material.

Now let's move on to specifics. Let's look at all the remaining materials, and you can decide for yourself which one is more suitable (in terms of price, quality, etc.).

Option #1. Basalt wool for insulating a frame house

Perhaps one of the most popular insulating materials. Has excellent noise and thermal insulation properties, is produced by melting rock basalt. For this reason, the material is sometimes called stone wool.

Note! The temperature it can withstand is +1000 C, so it is a real fireproof insulation.

The disadvantage of the material is that it absorbs moisture, which is why its main properties deteriorate over time. Therefore, when insulating a frame house, you should protect the basalt wool using vapor and waterproofing materials. We also note that for thermal insulation of walls it is necessary to use the material that is produced in slabs. It is advisable that there is a special marking on it indicating that it is for walls, otherwise after a couple of years the wool will shrink and cracks will form in the wall (namely in its upper part), through which cold air will penetrate.

Option #2. Ecowool

Modern material made from cellulose. It differs from the previous version not only in appearance, but also in installation technology. To insulate ecowool, you need a special machine to mix the material with water droplets; then this entire mixture is driven into the interframe space.

Droplets of water are here for a reason - they glue pieces of ecowool together, forming a monolithic thermal insulator along the entire perimeter of the building. Consequently, there cannot be any cold bridges in such walls. Although it is possible to install ecowool without using special equipment, that is, dry. In this case, it is simply poured between the layers of walls and carefully compacted.

Ecowool is immune to high humidity emanating from the room, so no vapor barrier is needed in this case. The only drawback of the material is the high cost (not only of it, but also of installation work).

Option #3. Glass wool

Another very popular material that can be used in a frame house. It differs from basalt wool in that it is made from molten glass. It is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, fire safety and the fact that no toxic substances are released when exposed to fire.

Note! Glass wool is often produced in rolls. You should pay attention to the fact that it must have markings for the walls (this is necessary for a frame-type house).

Option number 4. Bulk insulation

These include sawdust, expanded clay, slag, and the like. At one time, this technology was a great success, since it was quite difficult to get good insulating material. But today bulk materials are practically not used. Everything is explained quite simply: their common drawback is that over time they shrink, and their thermal insulation properties are very questionable.

Option #5. Glassine

Glassine is thick paper, treated with bitumen. The material is often used in construction to protect against wind and moisture, although in reality this is not necessary - the material does not allow moisture to pass through, which comes from the room, and it accumulates in the frame itself.

Note! We do not consider spraying polyurethane foam, although it is very effective and can be applied to almost any surface. Firstly, it is afraid of direct sunlight, which reduces its service life by half. Secondly, its application requires special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure. We are talking about insulating a frame house, which in itself implies minimizing costs.

Video - How to insulate a house

Stage two. Preparatory activities

First we need to understand a number of important points, without which the thermal insulation of a frame building can easily turn into a waste of money. First, we note that you need to think not only about the walls, since both the ceiling and the floor can also let in cold air! In addition, the insulating material should be properly protected from moisture using internal/external waterproofing. Finally, when performing installation work, you need to leave small ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation itself.

Before you start installation work, thoroughly clean all working surfaces from dirt and dust. If protruding screws or nails are found, remove them. And if there are gaps between the frame elements of the building, then fill them with polyurethane foam. Dry any damp areas (if any) with construction hair dryer.

Note! If before that outside surface The walls were thermally insulated using waterproofing material, then its re-installation inside the building is no longer required, otherwise excess moisture will accumulate in the structure and, as a result, it will quickly collapse. Below are instructions for internal insulation only.

Stage three. Waterproofing layer

Let’s immediately make a reservation that the installation technology for all materials is approximately the same. First, measure all the walls of the frame, then, in accordance with the calculations, cut strips of the material that was chosen for waterproofing. Attach the material to the posts using a stapler so that the frame is completely covered.

Stage four. Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Even if moisture-resistant materials are used for insulation, vapor barrier must still be performed. At first glance, these are unnecessary expenses that can be completely avoided. But the fact is that inside the frame there will be not only insulation, but also other elements (for example, wood), which still need protection from steam penetrating into the walls from the room.

Scheme for laying a vapor barrier layer when insulating a frame house

Both a special film and foamed polyethylene can be used as a vapor barrier. Attach the selected material to the frame racks close to the thermal insulator using a mounting stapler. Sometimes insulation blocks are simply wrapped in this material, but in reality this is not necessary - as we just noted, protection must be provided for all frame elements without exception.

The material is laid with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters, and all joints are carefully sealed with high-quality double-sided tape. Also don't forget the fact that the thickness vapor barrier material does not in any way affect the similar indicator of the insulating material.

Stage five. Installation of insulation

If mineral wool is used for thermal insulation, before starting work, be sure to wear personal protective equipment - a respirator, gloves, safety glasses, and special clothing. If you use polystyrene foam (and this material, as we said, is not very suitable), then such safety measures are not needed. When insulating a frame house, lay the material between frame racks evenly, not forgetting the ventilation gaps required between the thermal insulator and the sheathing. To cut mineral wool you can use scissors or an ordinary knife, but for polystyrene foam you will need electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with small teeth.

Note! Experts say that it is more effective to lay insulation in two layers. So, first there should be a first layer 10 centimeters thick, then a wooden sheathing is laid in a horizontal position, on top of which the second layer is laid (its thickness should already be 5 centimeters). This little “trick” will help avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Place on top of the insulation protective film(if it is necessary, that is, if the outside of the house was not properly insulated). This will ensure that the material will always be in a dry state, and moisture will not get in from the outside.

Note! For the ventilation gap, which has been mentioned more than once, fill wooden sheathing 3 centimeters thick.

After this, you can begin installing OSB boards and decorative trim.

Stage six. We sew up the walls in a frame house

The procedure for insulating a frame house is almost complete; all that remains is to sew up all the walls from the inside. OSB boards are often used for this, although you can also use sheets of plasterboard. Although we note that drywall is advisable only in the case of a fairly even frame, otherwise it will take on all forms of irregularities. On the contrary, OSB is much tougher, so it can be used to eliminate minor flaws. Start finishing on top of one of them.

Fastening OSB boards to the harness if there is a second floor

Two options for joining plates

About additional insulation

If what is described above is not enough, then you can additionally take care of external insulation (if, of course, it is not already present). If mineral wool was used inside, then lay a vapor barrier on the outside, which will protect the material from condensed moisture. By the way, this can be not only film, but also aluminium foil, although, to be honest, this material is not the best.

You can use the same OSB or plywood as wind protection. The finishing coating can be eurolining, siding or other suitable materials. That's all, good luck with your work and have a warm winter!

Video - Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

Frame houses are becoming increasingly popular, however, this European trend in the Russian climate requires significant thermal insulation, as well as protection from wind and moisture. Experts recommend insulating the walls of a frame house not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

Selecting materials for thermal insulation

Several decades ago, to preserve heat in the house, a mixture of clay with straw, sawdust or shavings was poured into the walls of frame houses. Sawdust concrete was also popular at one time, but these materials have not been in use for a long time, although they do not lose their attractiveness due to their low cost. In modern houses based on a frame, mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool) and polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool has a number of advantages - they are fireproof, which is especially important for houses made of wooden frames, have low thermal conductivity, are easy to install, are produced in a form convenient for builders (mats, rolls) and are quite lightweight. The disadvantage of this insulation is that it cannot be called environmentally friendly, since it contains formaldehyde in small doses. In addition, moisture is contraindicated for him. Most often, mineral wool is used for external insulation, since using this material for interior work is not always convenient and safe.

Very quickly, foam plastic became the most popular material for thermal insulation among building materials. It is made from polymer plastic granules, which are filled with carbon dioxide or natural gas.

Polystyrene foam boards are very light in weight, easy to install, do not conduct heat and normal temperatures environmentally friendly. This kind of insulation is not susceptible to rotting or the appearance of fungus, so when installing it, additional layers of vapor and waterproofing may not be required.

Perhaps the most important advantage of polystyrene foam is its modest cost. Its main disadvantage is the possibility of fire and the release of substances harmful to human health during combustion. True, there is a fire-resistant version of this material - extruded polystyrene foam, which is also more compact. All types of foam, oddly enough, can easily be damaged by rodents, which is another significant disadvantage.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) is a sprayed type of thermal insulation that has the highest degree of heat retention and is very resistant to moisture. Spraying occurs using special equipment in which the active components are mixed and, upon reaching the surface, instantly foam, forming a dense crust. You can spray polyurethane foam on almost any surface, even glass and metal, regardless of its position. The weak point of polyurethane foam is sunlight. When exposed to direct sunlight, its service life is reduced by approximately half. But you can protect polyurethane foam from the sun with regular painting. Another disadvantage is that special equipment is needed to work with this material.

For water and wind insulation, builders often use glassine - thick paper impregnated with bitumen. However, its use as protection from moisture and wind is undesirable, since glassine does not allow moisture emanating from the house to pass through and contributes to its accumulation inside the frame. In modern practice, builders are increasingly using superdiffusion hydro-windproof membranes, which have enormous vapor permeability compared to glassine and will perfectly protect the house from wind and moisture from the outside.

Insulating the walls of a frame house from the inside - preparatory work

First, let's understand some basic principles, without which insulating the walls of such a house may turn out to be a waste of money. Firstly, when wondering how to insulate a frame house from the inside, you need to think not only about the walls. The floor and ceiling can also let in the cold! Secondly, thermal insulation materials must be reliably protected from external moisture and internal waterproofing. Thirdly, when laying insulation, it is important to maintain the gaps between the material and the wall surfaces necessary for ventilation.

Before you begin installing the insulation, clean the walls, floor and ceiling from dust and dirt. If there are protruding nails or screws, they should be removed. The existing gaps between the elements of the house frame are filled with polyurethane foam. If necessary, use a hair dryer to dry the damp areas of the frame.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the heat loss of a building.

How to insulate a frame house from the inside - step-by-step instructions

In the event that the house was nevertheless carried out and external thermal insulation With the use of waterproofing, there is no need to re-install another layer of moisture protection inside the house, otherwise this may lead to the accumulation of excess moisture inside the structure and its rapid destruction. We will consider the option of insulating the house only from the inside.

How to insulate a frame house from the inside - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Installation of the waterproofing layer

We measure the walls of the frame house and cut the one we have chosen into appropriate strips waterproofing material. Using a construction stapler, we attach it to the posts, completely covering the frame. It is best to lay the waterproofing overlapping, leaving about 10 cm under the top layer. Fastening is carried out at the junction every 10 cm.

Step 2: Installation of vapor barrier

Even if materials that are not afraid of moisture are used as insulation, it is still necessary to perform a vapor barrier. The reason for the seemingly unnecessary costs at first glance is that in addition to the insulation itself, the wall frame contains other elements that should be protected from steam penetrating into the walls from inside the building, for example, the same wood.

For vapor barrier, a special film or foamed polyethylene is used. This material is also attached to the frame posts with a construction stapler close to the insulation. Sometimes builders simply wrap thermal insulating blocks in such a film, but this is not entirely correct - as already noted, all frame elements must be protected from steam. The joints of the film, as in the case of waterproofing, should be made with an overlap of at least 10 cm. For greater vapor barrier, all joints and junctions of this layer should be taped with double-sided tape. When installing a vapor barrier, keep in mind that its thickness does not in any way reduce the thickness of the main insulation.