How to lay flexible tiles. Do-it-yourself soft roofing: preparation and installation of a soft roof. Prices for metal tiles
Creating a stylish and solid building or giving a noble image to a house - a soft roof copes well with all these functions.
In addition to aesthetic appeal, the material characterized by durability, reliability and wear resistance.
However, to fully experience all the benefits soft roof it must be installed correctly.
ABOUT technical specifications soft roof is possible.
For preparatory and installation work with a soft roof you will need following tools:
- hammer;
- roulette;
- hacksaw;
- pencil;
- chalk rope;
- work gloves to protect hands;
- trowel for working with bitumen mixture.
Sheathing for soft tiles
Building material can serve as the main one with a firm, even and smooth structure. These include moisture resistant plywood, edged or tongue-and-groove boards, OSB boards. Wherein permissible level humidity up to 20%.
During installation, the joints of the boards should be aligned in relation to the supports so as to overlap two or more purlins. At the same time, the gaps between the boards should not be wider than 10 mm. Minimum thickness gap between the seams of the lower skin - 2 mm, and when using edged boards –5 mm. Gaps are needed not only for ventilation, but also for possible expansion of the structure under the influence of temperature changes.
Preparing the sheathing
Ventilation system for soft tiles
To ensure air exchange and prevent condensation, care must be taken about the ventilation system. It will significantly increase the service life of the structure and protect it from rotting, the formation of icicles and ice during the winter season.
To organize natural ventilation of the attic it is recommended make holes for ventilation evenly along the entire length of the ridge under the overhang of the eaves, and the hood is in the upper part of the roof.
The ventilation system includes exits, vents located in the eaves overhangs and a special gap. The latter is the gap between the waterproofing layer and the base. The gap should be 5 cm or more.
Selection and installation of insulating carpet
For reliable adhesion to the substrate before laying tiles 
an insulating carpet is spread - fastened from top to bottom at the ends, eaves overhangs and valleys.
Self-tapping screws for soft roofing, namely roofing nails, are used as fasteners. located in 200 mm increments.
When choosing an insulating carpet, you should start from the angle of the roof. At roofing coal at 18 0 or more, you can stop on the lining in places with a high probability of leaks: skates and valleys, in places chimneys or areas adjacent to a vertical wall, which are reinforced by 250 and 500 mm, respectively.
Moreover, for the first, the width is 400 mm, and for the second, layer equipment is required on both sides.
at 12-18 0 requires laying an insulating carpet over the entire area. It is mounted from bottom to top in a parallel direction from eaves overhang. In the transverse direction the overlap should be at least 100 mm, and in the longitudinal direction - 150 mm and above.
NOTE!
To achieve good tightness of the structure, you can treat overlap areas with bitumen mastic.
Valley carpet
To protect the roofing system from climatic precipitation, an insulating layer is applied to the valley, matched to the color of the tiles and nailed down.
Roofing pie
To protect the house from precipitation, wind, temperature changes and other influences, a roofing pie is installed - multilayer construction various materials . For soft tiles it looks like this:
- Vapor barrier. Protects against the formation of condensation and minimizes the penetration of vapors from rooms in the house.
- Thermal insulation. Retains heat, provides sound insulation, protects from wind and low temperatures.
- Waterproofing. Seals inner part buildings, preventing the ingress of water and moisture formed from rain or snow.
- Decorative layer. Provides a defined look roofing pie and serves as additional protection from the wind.
Installation of a soft roof: technology and diagram
Protection of gables and eaves
To protect the edges of the sheathing from rain moisture and snow, metal strips are used - droppers (eaves) and pediments. Eaves strips are placed on a lining located on the eaves, and pediment strips are placed on a lining layer at the roof ends.
Both varieties are fastened with nails in 100 mm increments and in zigzag patterns.. In places where the planks join, an overlap of 20 mm or more is made. You can read about installation at this link.
Upon completion of this stage, you can proceed to the main work - laying a soft roof.
Installation of soft roof
Before you begin installing a soft roof with your own hands, you should check the colors of all sheets in the packages, as there may be inconsistencies in the tiles. To avoid color deviations, you can mix 5-6 packages. The tiles themselves are suitable for roofs with a slope angle of 12-90 0.
Temperature and climatic conditions at the site require great attention. At temperatures below 5 0 installation of soft tiles is not recommended, since roofing sheets require the sun to seal tightly with the base. If the installation cannot stand waiting, and the temperature does not meet the requirements, it is recommended to keep the sheets until room temperature and use a hot air heating pad.
Do-it-yourself roof made of flexible tiles
Flexible tiles: installation instructions
If both of the above conditions are met, the sheathing and tools are prepared, you can begin laying. So, how to lay a soft roof? The technology for installing a soft roof is quite simple:
- Working with cornice tiles. Mounted on top of the planks on the eaves overhang. For fixation, glue and nails are used, located at a distance of 25 mm from the edge of the coating.. Another installation option is to use a pattern made from ordinary tiles. To do this, cut the petals from the shingles and mount the tiles end-to-end at a distance of 20 mm from the eaves overhang. To calculate the tiles, use ours.
- Working with ordinary tiles. Before installation, horizontal markings are made using chalk. This will allow a row of sheets to be laid evenly, especially if the slope has dormers, pipes and other structural elements. Next, remove the protective film from the shingles and begin installation from the middle of the eaves overhang, moving in both directions. The roof is secured with four nails driven into special holes. For slopes of 45 0 and higher, six nails will be needed.
- The first row of tiles is placed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the lower edge of the eaves tiles, and the petals are placed at its joints. The next rows should be positioned so that the end of the shingle tabs is at or just above the cutouts in the previous layer. When working at the ends, you need to trim the tiles along the edge of the roof and reinforce them with glue with a layer of 10 cm. To avoid damaging the insulating layer when cutting plywood, you can put a piece of plywood or board under it.
Do-it-yourself soft roof installation with step-by-step photos
The nuances of laying soft tiles on valleys and ridges
Important attention when laying soft tiles is necessary pay attention to valleys and skates, to which you should proceed after finishing work with ordinary tiles.
In valleys, the roof is cut to reveal strips of carpet, having a width of 150 mm.
Before laying soft tiles on ridges, you should prepare scaffolding that will help simplify the work. To obtain ridge tiles, it is enough to divide the eaves in three perforation places, and then bend the resulting elements in half.
This type of roofing is attached with the short side along the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm using four nails.
CAREFULLY!
Don't forget about applying glue to the petals at fastening points after dismantling the scaffolding.
Now let's look at how to lay a soft roof around a chimney.
Installation of a roof made of soft tiles: technology of bypassing the chimney
Another important point during installation - organizing the connection of the roof to the chimney. It must be insulated by nailing a strip around the perimeter of the pipes and attaching an insulating carpet to it.
After this, the roof is brought to a vertical surface and glued, closing the slopes by 200 mm and the pipe by 300 mm. The protruding edges are closed with a metal strip and sealed.
Chimney bypass
Common installation mistakes
| Problem causing leakage or damage | Description |
| Poor fastening of the flooring | If the deck flexes or deforms, the fasteners can bend and damage the tile plates, causing leaks. |
| Ignoring vapor barriers | This leads to moisture getting into the insulation and destruction of the roof structure. |
| Incorrect installation of soft roofing in the first row | If there is a coincidence between the joints of the plates in the starting and first rows, this will inevitably cause a leak in the area of the lower part of the ramp |
| Poor plate fixation | If the plates are loosely fastened, a gust of wind will easily lift and tear off the plate. To avoid this, it is necessary to position the nails correctly: they must be mounted through the fastener strip above the adhesive line covered by the petals |
| Bend of the roofing package | If during installation you do not place the package with plates on a flat surface, it will become deformed and the layers of the roof will separate. Packages must be placed on a flat surface |
| The adhesive strip on the plates runs continuously | In such structures, water does not get out, falling under the plate from the side, from which it moves to the side towards the joints between the roof. Usually these are places near chimneys, valleys or internal drains |
| Poor roof design | If the roof is not designed correctly, the following problems may occur: incorrect placement of valleys or gutters, dormer windows, chimneys. It is difficult to solve this problem, since it appears during construction. But leaks need to be detected |
| Poor quality chimney waterproofing | Before starting to correct this problem, it is recommended to check the masonry for the presence of fallen bricks. A common mistake that causes leakage: lack of flanging of aprons during laying |
| Low-quality roofing of valleys | Most films offered on the market have a service life of 5-7 years, which is clearly not the same as a roof that can last 50 years. Therefore, according to the installation rules, it is necessary to use a high-quality waterproof film in combination with a metal apron |
By following the technology for laying soft roofs and having the necessary set of tools, the installation of soft tile roofs will be effective, quick and safe. However, if there are doubts about their own qualifications or lack of time, it is better for owners to entrust the work to professionals who are well acquainted with the procedure for laying the roof. And finally, we recommend reading the article about
How are bitumen shingles attached?
It is possible that you do not know how to fasten bitumen shingles. There are several options for attaching it.
Depending on the roofing base, you can use different methods fastening soft tiles.
There are few methods for fastening, but first things first.
Roofing nails
This is the most common type of fastening.
Roofing nails are used when the base for the roof is moisture-resistant OSB boards, plywood coniferous species or a continuous sheathing made of wooden boards.
The roofing nail is used in those roofs where inside cladding and insulation will be carried out, as well as in uncrowded places (for example, attic roofs) - where the numerous sharp stings of the tips of nails do not pose a constant threat.
Nails are used to fasten row, starting and ridge tiles, underlayment, valley carpets, roof penetrations, etc.
Nail size
Roofing nails for flexible tiles are those with large heads Ø 8-12 mm. Also, for these nails the name “tar paper nails” is applicable. Their length reaches from 25 to 40 mm. The diameter of the nail rods is up to 3.2 mm.
For installation bitumen shingles It is best to use galvanized nails. Unlike ordinary steel nails, galvanized ones have a much longer service life, since they are less susceptible to corrosion processes.
Most accessible installation soft roofing on nails is carried out using a hammer. To protect your fingers from lacerations, it is better to use a hammer with round end shock part.
The nail must be driven so that the head of the nail is adjacent to the surface of the shingles. The nail is driven in perpendicularly (at an angle of 90º) to the plane of the under-roof base.
Nails that are not completely driven in prevent maximum adhesion of soft tiles and can, after some time, “climb out” from the under-roof base.
Nails driven too deeply leave a depression in the shingle, and the nail head punching through it can create a hole around the nail head. This directly affects the reliability of the fastening itself.
Nail consumption
Consumption of nails for bitumen shingles: per 100 sq.m. finished roof- 10 kg of nails. This amount takes into account complete installation along with roofing components.
Fastening flexible tiles with nailer
You can also fasten the tiles using a tool such as a pneumatic nail hammer.
There are rack and drum nailers.
Nails for nailers are made of carbon steel. They are nickel plated. To fasten shingles, nailers must have large heads.
Self-tapping screws with press washer
Fastening with self-tapping screws with a press washer is less common, but in some cases there is no alternative to it.
The most common material for the roof base, where self-tapping screws with a press washer are used, is laminated plywood. It is usually used for gazebos and canopies, open enclosures and in other cases when the under-roof base is also a cladding on the inside of the roof.
Nails in laminated plywood It is difficult to hammer in, and the plywood itself is subject to destruction.
Therefore, in such cases, it is correct to use self-tapping screws with a press washer to fasten flexible tiles. It is important that the length of the screws be less than the thickness of the plywood, so that their tips do not stick out in large numbers from the inside of the roof.
Also, self-tapping screws can be used when thin wooden lining or board, mounted on top of the roof frame or rafters. Hammered nails can cause the lining to prick and crack. Well, in order to prevent the nails from coming out and spoiling the view from below, they can be replaced with self-tapping screws with a short-length press washer. If, for example, the thickness of the lining is 20 mm, you can use screws 16 mm long.
The rules for fastening with self-tapping screws are the same as for nails.
Staples
Fastening bitumen shingles with staples is relevant and applicable for cases similar to fastening with self-tapping screws, with the only exception - the staples are difficult to drive into laminated plywood and bend. But lining, OSB and plywood, when they are used simultaneously as finishing the underside of the roof and the under-roof base, can be used.
Such buildings include gazebos, canopies, canopies, wells, doghouses and enclosures.
Do not attach with staples flexible tiles on the roofs of main buildings(houses, attics, garages, bathhouses, etc.), since this is a very unreliable type of mechanical fastening.
Propane torch
And the last option - fixing asphalt shingles with a propane torch.
It is used when it is necessary to avoid nails.
As a rule, these are “forged visors” with metal frame, to which it is welded a metal sheet or screwed thin plywood or OSB-3 boards.
Torch fastening is applicable only for tile types with self-adhesive backing. These are the so-called single-layer types.
Fastening, and in part, fusing bitumen shingles with a burner is the most difficult and labor-intensive method fastening, requiring professional skills to work not only with the burner, but also with soft tiles.
That is, a truly beautiful and reliable roof from TECHNONICOL SHINGLAS flexible tiles can be made with your own hands using a classic set of tools: a hammer, a roofing knife, nails, a pencil, a tape measure, metal scissors, a spatula and a level gauge.
Where to begin?
Of course, from the ground up. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be durable, dry, level and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture-resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). In any case, gaps 3-5 mm thick must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations.
It is worth paying attention to the shade of the tiles- it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles (rectangular sheets of flexible tiles) from 4-7 packs are mixed together.
Installation is best done in dry weather with a minimum ambient temperature of up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then it is recommended to keep the shingles in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of attaching shingles, it is best to serve packs from a warm room, about 5-6 packs each, and during the process of attaching shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer construction hairdryer.
Step 1 - how to strengthen the eaves overhang
The cornice is strengthened using painted metal cornice strips. They are attached to the plank flooring with special roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 12–15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30–50 mm.
Step 2 - why install underlay carpet
Made from special roll material. It makes the roof more airtight, and it will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The carpet is rolled out horizontally, from the eaves overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to take into account that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indentation depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself. Entrances to the cornice and gable, as well as overlapping areas, are coated with bitumen mastic using a spatula. The thickness of the mastic is no more than 1 mm.
The carpet is made of two types of material. Self-adhesive underlay ANDEREP ULTRA carpet with a very durable polyester rot-resistant base and a fine-grained sand top layer is used in valleys and cornices.
On the rest of the area can be used in the work ANDEREP PROF (light lining material with a base made of rot-resistant polyester and a non-slip polypropylene coating) or ANDEREP GL (material with a fiberglass base and double-sided sprinkling) with mechanical fixation and an adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps. By the way, ANDEREP GL has thermoactive longitudinal strips, thanks to which the use of bitumen mastic is not required when installing longitudinal overlaps.
At the end of installation roll material It is carefully fixed along the edges with wide-headed roofing nails. Step – 20−25 cm.
Step 3 - how to strengthen the gable overhang
The gable part of the roof also needs special protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, mechanical influences. To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs and on top of the underlayment, which are coated with bitumen mastic during the installation of the tiles themselves.
To the supporting roof structure the strips are fastened with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 4 - what is special about the valley device?
The endow is known to have a concave angle, which collects the most moisture, therefore correct installation the roofing pie in this particular place will largely ensure reliable operation of the building. Let's consider the so-called “open” method of installing a valley.
On top of underlay carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - TECHNONICOL valley carpet. Along the perimeter of the back side, it is coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER bitumen mastic to a width of 10-12 cm. On the front side, the carpet is nailed with roofing nails with a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. Fastening step: 20-25 cm.
Step 5 - how to lay flexible tiles
For comfort and maintaining the required geometry, horizontal and vertical markings are made on the lining carpet. In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet of tiles, the horizontal lines should correspond to about 80 cm, this is approximately five rows of flexible tiles. Please note that the markings are simply a guide and not a mounting diagram.
Laying begins horizontally along the cornice. The first strip is made using universal ridge-eaves tiles. You can also use ordinary tiles from the selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tile “petals” from the shingles. The tiles are glued from the bend of the eaves to 1-2 cm and additionally nailed.
If ordinary cut tiles are used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingles must be coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic, that is, where there is no adhesive layer. The second row is mounted from the center of the slope - offset to the left or right by half the “petal”. Next, the installation proceeds diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid.
The tile elements are laid with an overlap at least 15 cm using a special adhesive layer. It is located on the back of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.
From the side of the gable overhang For flexible tiles, it is necessary to cut off the upper corner of the shingle to drain rainwater. The shingle itself should be moved back 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for free flow of water. Also, to protect against slanting rain, the tiles must be coated in the gable area with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic to a depth of 10 cm.
Step 6 – tiled valley, continued
When the laying process reached the valley, then at this node the shingles of flexible tiles are laid in a chaotic order on top of the valley carpet, after which they are trimmed so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see figure below). When cutting, a board should be placed under the shingles to avoid damaging the underlying insulating materials. After that, the back areas of the sheets of flexible tiles, which do not have an adhesive layer at the junction with the valley, are coated with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.
Step 7 - how to simply close the ribs and slopes
The edges of the slopes are formed by shingles special ridge-eaves tiles. Laying is carried out from the bottom up, the tiles are attached to the base with four nails - two on each side. These places are subsequently covered with overlaps 3-5 cm long from the upper shingles. The back part of the ridge tiles in places where there is no self-adhesive layer is coated with TECHNONICOL FIXER mastic.
Step 8 - why is it important to install a ridge aerator?
The horse is playing important role in the deviceroof ventilation , which helps air movement and removes condensation from the under-roof space. Let's consider the option of installing a continuous aerator installed on the roof ridge along its entire length. The shingles that form the roof joint are trimmed along the axis. Then a cut is made in the underlayment and the roof structure itself for air passage - at a certain interval and indentation from the edge of the roof. A solid plastic aerator is placed on top, along the axis. After which it is covered with ridge-eaves tiles using a technology similar to the construction of a roof slope.
Step 9 - how to make connections
Adjacencies mainly include joints roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular strip is nailed onto which the abutment element is placed. If the wall is brick, it must be plastered and coated with a bitumen primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm and about 20 cm over the tiles.
The entire rear area is covered with mastic"TECHNONICOL FIXER". The sealing of chimney and ventilation pipes is made from a pattern of the valley carpet. The upper part of the carpet is inserted into the groove and covered with a metal apron, followed by sealing.
There is one nuance here– installation of the pattern must take into account the cascading nature of the water. Therefore, first they mount front part pattern, it extends 20 cm onto the ordinary tiles. The left, right and rear parts “go” under the tiles. The back pattern is mounted last. The distance between the tiles and the pipe on the side and rear is approximately 8 cm.
Choice roofing Baths are a question that is both simple and complex. Even the large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.
The most prestigious and difficult are considered piece coverings made of tiles, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although even among these types of coating the price difference between brands can differ significantly. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Options for covering with metal and flexible tiles are found most often in bathhouse coverings, and we will focus on them for now.
To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little brief characteristics coverings.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
Advantages
Low cost, quick installation, wide choose colors and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.
Flaws
It makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.
Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roof carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.
We will describe the most complex method of installing metal tiles - with warm roof. Depending on specific use attic spaces you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable types roofs, checking their dimensions does not take much time.
How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.
Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase its performance. fire safety. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.
Step 3. Laying waterproofing.
It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures may cause their premature deterioration. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.
Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.
The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.
This device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.
Step 4.
Nail wind boards along the eaves, and wrap the waterproofing over the boards.
For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.
Lathing for metal tiles - photo
Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - beat it off with a rope with blue parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. Slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element roofing covering.
The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.
Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.
All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.
Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, mark this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line needs to be bent at an angle, equal to the angle the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.
Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney
Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. Finished in the same way side walls pipes, the top part is sealed last.
In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done all around the perimeter. brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.
The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which one can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.
Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.
The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks you can install and cornice strips.
Important. The bottom of the eaves strip should fall slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.
The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.
Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.
Step 6 A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.
Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.
Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time, you can use wooden joists, installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.
If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.
The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.
If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.
Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.
Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.
Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.
At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.
You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes; your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.
Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.
Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.
They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.
Step 10 Installation of end strips.
Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.
If the bathhouse is used for a chimney metal sandwich pipe, then to reach the roof you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.
How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe
| Step, No. | Description | illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | On the roof, mark the location of the chimney outlet, metal scissors cut a hole |
|
| Step 2 | Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant on the waterproofing seal, glue it and metal strips fix to slats or sheathing boards |
|
| Step 3 | Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size |
|
| Step 4 | Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe |
|
If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering device ventilation cap.
The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.
Prices for snow guards
snow guards
Video - Installation of metal tiles
Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles
Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; this coating universal use, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.
In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, the price range among various brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but in terms of average cost it is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of color solutions, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.
But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.
We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.
The base for the tiles is solid; most often, sheets of plywood or OSB are used; sometimes there is a more expensive option made from thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.
| Material thickness, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Distance between sheathing rafters, mm | OSB | Sheet plywood | Natural edged board |
| 300 | 9 | 9 | - |
| 600 | 12 | 12 | 20 |
| 900 | 18 | 18 | 23 |
| 1200 | 21 | 21 | 30 |
| 1500 | 27 | 27 | 37 |
The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between rafter legs. The most profitable is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step lathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.
Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Flexible roofing structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. Angles are checked by measuring diagonals, linearity of rafters using taut rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.
Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.
The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing
Baths, as a rule, have small sizes And simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.
You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are wrinkled at the edges without any problems. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.
Step 3. Secure the hooks of the drainage system.
How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the “Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles." And the general installation algorithm drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.
Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.
Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not adhere well, use special liquid bitumen mastic.
Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the underlay carpet with nails with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25÷30 cm.
Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skating ridge, a barrier must be installed in all cases.
One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.
Step 6 To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.
Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it difficult areas roofs, fix wrong sizes stingray
Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.
Step 9 Setting up the starting line.
This is a very important stage, please pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.
Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.
The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle has reverse side The protective film is removed, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.
Important. When driving nails into the bottom of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.
There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.
Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of a brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.
Pass-through element - fixation
Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.
Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.
If the horse has sharp corner or the work on laying tiles is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be heated with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.
At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.
Prices for flexible tiles
flexible tiles
Video - Installation of flexible tiles
Until recently, only galvanized steel, tiles and slate were used as roofing materials. Several people were involved in the installation work, who spent a lot of time and effort on the work. But today the range of materials has expanded and now, after the roof is built, it can cope with roofing work is possible for one person, a lot of new things have appeared - for example, soft roofing.
In terms of its technical and operational characteristics, soft roofing is in many ways superior to other materials. Its advantages include:
- ease of installation (can be done alone);
- strength;
- durability;
- flexibility;
- resistance to moisture and corrosion;
- tightness;
- attractive appearance.
Types of soft roofing
Often used as roofing the following types roofs:
Attention! If upper layer the roof will not be removed, then when purchasing a soft roof you should check whether it is compatible with the material from which the structure is made.
Preliminary work
Installation begins with preparation.
Stage 1. Preparing everything you need
As already noted, one person can do the laying of a soft roof. To work, he will need a completely standard list of materials:
Stage 2. Preparatory work
The base must be as strong as possible; its sagging is unacceptable. There are several materials that can be used for strengthening:
- plywood;
- OSB boards;
- tongue and groove boards 10 cm wide.
It is typical that in winter small gaps (about 3 mm) should be left between the seams of the sheathing. If the structure is sheathed with boards, then 5 mm.
Attention! It is advisable to treat the rafter system to protect it from rot and insects, as well as with fire retardants to increase its fire-resistant properties.
Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)
OSB (oriented strand board)
Stage 3. Ventilation gap
Allows you to solve the problem high humidity and reduces the amount of ice that forms in winter. Moreover, in summer, thanks to ventilation, the temperature inside the roofing sandwich decreases.
Ventilation consists of three main elements:
- ventilation outlet;
- inlet valves fresh air(installed from below);
- an air gap 50 mm wide between the base and the waterproofing layer.
Attention! If the slope of the slope exceeds 25ᵒ, then the area vent should be 8 cm². If the slope is less than 25ᵒ, then 16 cm².
Stage 4. Spacer layer
In this case, the gasket means a special one laid along the entire perimeter of the roof. Installation is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the eaves. An overlap of 10 cm is maintained. The material is fixed with nails every 20 cm.
If the roof slope is less than 18ᵒ, the lining can not be laid over the entire area, but only in certain areas, such as:
- skate;
- eaves overhangs;
- junction with a vertical wall;
- location of the chimney pipe.
Attention! If the slope is less than 12ᵒ, then using a soft roof is not recommended.
Stage 5. Installation of planks
Step 1. To protect the material from precipitation, curtain rods are installed on the eaves, or directly on top of the cushioning material. The planks (another name is drip edges) are arranged with an overlap of 2 cm and are fastened with roofing nails (in a zigzag pattern along the entire length of the plank).
Step 2. Pediment strips are installed at the ends of the structure. This must be done with the same 2-centimeter overlap. Nails are driven in increments of 10 cm.
Step 3. Mark the exit location (if the house has a heating stove).
Step 4. Upon completion of installation of the planks, the valley carpet is laid, which will significantly increase the moisture resistance. The color of the carpet must match the color of the roof, the edges are fixed with nails in 10 cm increments.
After this, you can begin laying the roofing material.
Below is the technology for laying bitumen shingles, since this is the most common type of soft roofing.
Stage 1. Cornice tiles
Eaves tiles are laid on slats fixed to the eaves. Galvanized nails are used for fixation - they are driven in two rows 2.5 cm from the top and bottom edges of the material.
Instead of cornice tiles, you can use ordinary tiles, which will save a little. To do this, the tiles are cut out - shingles are taken and the petals are cut off from them. In this case, installation is carried out “end-to-end” at a distance of 2 cm from the eaves overhang.
Stage 2. Ordinary tiles
Attention! Don't forget about color deviations. Even if all the shingles are from the same batch, the tone in different packages may vary. For this reason, it is recommended to mix six to seven packages in advance.
Step 1. Installation begins from the center of the roof overhang and is carried out in both directions.
Attention! Protective film it is removed from the shingles immediately before installation, since without it the material cannot be stacked.
Nails are used for fastening. Usually four pieces per shingle are enough, but if the roof slope exceeds 45ᵒ, then it is better to use six.
Step 2. The first row is laid in such a way that its edges deviate from the edges of the eaves overhang by 1-1.5 cm. In this case, the petals cover the joints between the eaves tiles.
Step 3. The second row is laid in the same way, but the petals should overlap the cutouts of the previous one.
Step 4. At the edges, the material is cut along the edge and glued. There should be a layer 10 cm wide.
The same is done in end roof tiles - the tiles are cut to obtain a 15-centimeter strip, after which the edges are coated with approximately 7-8 cm of glue.
Attention! When cutting tiles, it is advisable to underlay a piece of plywood so as not to damage the layer below.
Stage 3. Ridge tiles
Step 1. First, the scaffolding is prepared. They will greatly simplify the work with the roof ridge, but after completing the work, do not forget to glue the shingle tabs at the fastening points.
Step 2. The tiles are laid overlapping (about 5 cm), each shingle is fixed with four nails.
Attention! The ridge tiles are laid only after the laying of the row tiles has been completed.
Step 3. To obtain ridge tiles, the cornice tiles are cut at the perforation points. Next, each element is bent and laid with a short part along the roof ridge.
Stage 4. Passages and junctions in the roof
There are several ways to organize passages through the roof. So, if the passage diameter is small, then it is better to use special rubber seals. This applies to inputs for antennas and other communications, but the pipes are finished somewhat differently - here it is necessary to take into account possible heating and, as a result, expansion, which is why the technology used is different.
Step 1. First, a triangular-shaped strip (in most cases 5x5 cm) is nailed along the perimeter of the junction of the pipe and the roof.
Step 3. The pipe is glued insulating material in such a way that 25 cm of the slope and 35 cm of the pipe itself are covered.
On this installation work almost finished, all that remains is to secure the adjacent strip along the entire perimeter of the pipe. Next, the iron apron is fixed, and the seams are carefully sealed with silicone-based sealant.
Adjacent to vertical walls carried out in the same way. The only difference can be considered that the triangular strip does not form a perimeter, but is fixed along the wall.
Video - Installation of soft roofing
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Roll roofing installation
Roll material, which is also called euroroofing material, is laid mainly on flat roofs, although it can sometimes be found on slopes with a slight slope.
The technology looks like this.
Step 1. After rolling out the roll, all folds are aligned and the material is stretched.
Step 2. One side of the roofing material is heated with a special burner until the special indicator melts.
Step 3. After this, the side is glued to the base. When the material has cooled, the roll is rolled back to the place of fixation.
Step 4. The roofing material is fused and gradually rolled out. In this case, you need to adhere to certain rules.
- The roofing material is fused with an overlap of 5 cm. To do this, a special orientation strip is applied along the entire length.
- The material must not be overheated, otherwise it will deteriorate and lose its ability to adhere.
- High-quality deposited material must be homogeneous - without voids, dark spots etc.
The joints with other surfaces are treated with bitumen mastic, which, after drying, will have the same properties as euroroofing felt.
Video - Installation of euroroofing felt
As a conclusion
The main points of installation discussed above will help even a non-specialist understand the essence of the issue. The main thing to remember is that adherence to installation technology and strict adherence to all instructions will prolong service life soft roof.
