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Installation of a 4 pitched roof on a house. Construction of hipped roofs, calculations, materials, construction technology. Calculation of eaves overhang and drainage system

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private homes. Their hipped variety is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive pediment. Four design pitched roof contains many constituent elements. It can be either relatively simple or more complex due to attic and dormer windows. But in the latter case it looks more interesting and varied.

A hipped roof, in comparison with its gable counterpart, better withstands wind loads, precipitation and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but small house or a gazebo, you can build such a roof yourself. In the photo on the Internet you can see how beautiful and harmonious a 4-pitched roof looks. She decorates like one-story houses, and higher buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

1. Hip design It consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes, called hips. The first two slopes join each other at the ridge. During installation, the technique of arranging layered rafters, as in a gable system, and slanted rafter legs from a 4-slope system is used.
2. Half hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Below them is a pediment in which you can make big windows for lighting the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
3. You can also build hip roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the shape of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
4. The hardest thing to build yourself hipped roof complex configuration with many valleys, gables, junctions and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, carry out its plan, diagram and assemble it on site.

Attention! In addition to the supporting frame of the roof, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, since different roof designs and slopes require the use of different materials.

Components

Since the design of a hipped roof is practically no different from gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional details. The 4-pitch roof includes the following parts:

• Mauerlat. This wooden beam square or rectangular cross-section, which is laid on top of the external load-bearing walls on which the rafters will rest. It absorbs the entire load and distributes it evenly for transmission to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
• Beddings are internal supporting elements that are laid on load-bearing walls inside a house or support. The material and cross-section of the beds are the same as those of the Mauerlat.
• Rafters are divided into sloped and side. The latter of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the oblique ones are needed for hip slopes. A hip roof does not use side rafters. The side rafters are assembled from timber with a cross-section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones - 10x15 cm. The optimal pitch of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it can be less or more depending on the chosen roofing covering and the design features of the roof.
• Racks are needed to support the frame of a hipped structure.
• Ridge run- a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. Pitched design hip roof does not have a skate. It is better to make it from timber with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
• Tie-rods are a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material – board with a section of 5x15 cm.
• Spawners are shortened rafters that are attached to the diagonal leg. They are made from boards measuring 150x50 mm.
• Struts are special struts that increase the strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof.
• The filly is the elements that form the roof overhang and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from timber with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-slope roof, drawing and design diagram may contain others additional elements, for example, cornices, protective strips, additional sheathing, etc. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to make a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all roof components is wood coniferous species not lower than grade 2 with humidity not more than 15%.

Installation sequence

We will study how to make a hipped roof with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip design. The step-by-step process for installing the roof components looks like this:

1. To transfer and evenly distribute the load from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The beams are fixed to the enclosing structures using anchor pins, which are laid at the stage of wall construction. If the house is built from wood, then the role of the Mauerlat is played by the last crown log house The Mauerlat beam must be protected from brick, concrete and stone walls through waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped in two layers of roofing felt.
2. The beds are laid on the supporting interior walls. They are necessary where racks are provided in the rafter system. If the house does not have internal load-bearing walls or they are located in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which act as floors. As a rule, beams have a section of 20x5 cm, so the load-bearing elements are increased to a section of 20x10 cm.
3. After this, they begin to install the racks on the supporting beams or beams. The racks are leveled or plumb and temporarily fixed using supports made of boards. To securely fix the stands, use metal corners or steel plates. For a simple hip system, you will need one row of posts centered just below the ridge. The pitch of the racks is no more than 2 m. When arranging a hip roof, the racks must be installed under the diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
4. Next, purlins are placed on the installed racks. For a conventional hip system, this run is the strong point. For a hip roof, all purlins form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All purlins in this design are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
5. Now you can begin installing the rafter legs. In this case, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:

• A board (150x25 mm) the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the place where the outer post is installed and a template is made. Mark the top cut on it (the place where the rafter leg will rest on the ridge) and cut it out.
• Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the bottom cut is cut out (the one with which the rafter element will rest on the mauerlat beam).
• After this, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the rafters and the need for adjustment for each rafter element is checked.
• Mark the rafters and cut out a recess according to the template.
• Now the rafter legs can be installed and secured to the mauerlat and ridge beam. For fixation, metal corners and screws or staples are used.

You can learn more about the installation of a hipped roof rafter system from the video below:

1. To make diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced ​​boards of a regular side rafter. The template for diagonal legs is made in the same way. The upper part of these elements rests on the stand, and the lower part rests on the corner part of the mauerlat. That is why cuts need to be made at 45 degrees.
2. Next, frames are installed between the two diagonal rafters. The installation step of these elements is equal to the installation step of the rafters. The upper part of the narozhnik rests on the diagonal leg, and the lower part rests on the mauerlat. The gash on the top of the spigots for half of the elements is done in mirror image. The lower cut is usually performed locally. After installing the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned along the stretched cord and trimmed.
3. The constructed rafter system does not guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs bear the maximum load, it is necessary to install additional racks - spregnels - under them. They must rest on reinforced floor beams.
4. Under the side rafter legs, struts are installed, the lower edge of which rests on the beam or floor beam, and their upper edge should rest against the rafter at an angle of approximately 45°.
5. A do-it-yourself hipped roof can be made with any roofing covering, for example, from ondulin, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, flexible tiles. But it is worth remembering that under a soft coating you need to do continuous sheathing from moisture resistant plywood or OSB. If you are planning to do attic floor, then it is necessary to lay insulation between the rafters, and underneath everything with a vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Under roofing Waterproofing must be installed and a ventilation gap must be created.

Roofs with four slopes have higher reliability and resistance to loads. This design is much more complex than a conventional gable one, and installation takes longer. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task if you prepare properly and study in detail the intricacies of its construction.

The hip roof has many variations. The most simple design It consists of 2 trapezoidal slopes connecting in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes on the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the ribs of the roof converge at a central point. More complex designs suggest the presence of broken lines, a combination of short slopes with pediments, built-in straight and inclined windows, as well as multi-level slopes.

Without appropriate experience, it is impossible to build a rafter system of such a configuration, so it is better to pay attention to a standard hip roof.

The slope of the slopes can have an angle from 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:

Gentle slopes are not suitable for arranging an attic, since they take up too much free space. Therefore, if an attic is planned in the house design, the roof slope should be 45 degrees or higher. You can select the angle of inclination depending on the type of roofing using the table.

Atmospheric loads are also of great importance. Where there is a lot of snow, you cannot make a slope of less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the angle of inclination is more than 60 degrees, the snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. They are usually suspended from the rafters and place additional stress on them. After preliminary calculations, you can begin drawing up a drawing of the rafter system.

Materials for roof installation

Like a gable roof, a hip roof consists of a mauerlat, puffs, rafters, support posts, ridge beams and sheathing. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a hipped roof, it is recommended to use lumber from pine or larch, good quality, without defects, with a maximum humidity of 22%.

The rafters are made from boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take 50x200 mm boards. For the Mauerlat you need a solid beam with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. Additionally, you will need threaded metal studs for fastening the Mauerlat, boards for sheathing and overhead metal plates, which are used to connect wooden elements.

Before assembling the roof, lumber must be impregnated with an antiseptic agent.

During the work you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• building level;
• plumb line and tape measure;
• hammer;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• Circular Saw.

Rafter system installation technology

Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat

In houses made of timber, the functions of the mauerlat are performed by the last crown of the log house, in which special grooves are cut for the rafters. IN brick houses The Mauerlat is laid on the walls around the perimeter of the box, having previously secured metal studs with threads between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for fasteners, the timber is lifted and laid on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After this, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.

Having removed the timber for drilling, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing felt. It is placed directly on the studs and pressed downwards. Next, lay the Mauerlat, aligning the holes with the studs, align them horizontally and screw the nuts tightly onto the threads. At the corners, the beams are connected with metal plates or brackets. After fastening, the beam should not move even a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on this.

Step 2. Installation of racks

If the house does not have a central bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a cross section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, short bars 50 mm thick are inserted between the boards and nailed down. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m; the beams are not fastened at the ends. Having measured the middle of the attic, lay the support beam so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.

Now take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, and install them on the support beam using a plumb line. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are connected by a block. The racks are temporarily reinforced with beams made from beams. The top of the racks is connected by a ridge beam, for which a 50x200 mm board is used.

Step 3. Attaching the central rafters

They take a rafter board and attach it with one end to the ridge beam and the other to the mauerlat on the front side of the building. Adjust the length immediately eaves overhang, the excess is cut off. Mark the lines of the cuts with a pencil, after which they cut off the upper end of the board and make a groove in the mauerlat 1/3 of the width of the rafter. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and secured with metal plates.

The rest of the rafters are made in the same way and installed in 60 cm increments from the facade of the house. The outer boards should be positioned perpendicular to the ridge beam and attached to its ends. WITH opposite side buildings do everything the same way. On the hips there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on its edge and attached with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and secured with nails.

Step 4. Attaching the corner rafters

To make corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the point of connection of the mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied to it. At the point of connection between the ridge and the central rafter, a nail is also driven in from the hip side, a cord is pulled to it and secured. This is how the line of diagonal, or corner, rafters is designated. Their length must be the same, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge beam and mauerlat. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 50-70 cm.

Step 5. Installation of spigots

To secure the diagonal rafters, they use spigots - shortened rafters, the lower end of which rests on the mauerlat and located at right angles to the ridge beam. They are attached in increments of 60 cm, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As they approach the diagonal, the narozhniki make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with ties and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.

If the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, you need to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the rack should rest on the floor beam. In the case where the beam is located further than the designated place or is completely absent, instead vertical stand they attach the sprengel - a horizontal jumper made of timber, the ends of which are nailed to the frames.

Step 5. Installation of the sheathing

When all the supports are installed, you can fill the sheathing. For a hipped roof, the sheathing is done in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached to each slope separately. The joints are carefully taped, and then thin slats are stuffed over the membrane to provide an air gap. The boards are laid in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.

At this point, the assembly of the rafter system is considered complete. All that remains is to insulate the structure, lay the roofing, mount wind bars and trim the overhangs. To make a hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install inclined or straight windows on the slopes.

Video - DIY hipped roof

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Even though they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” more interesting view. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And even though the rafter system of a hipped roof is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made with your own hands.

Types of hipped roofs

Hip roofs are the most expensive and difficult to install. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofing, have high mechanical strength, and resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than any other.

Even a simple “box” under a 4-pitch roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitch roofs: hip and hip. The hip roof is suitable for square buildings, the hip one - for rectangular ones. IN hip roof all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapezoids that converge at the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that are adjacent to the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the design and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

Hip roofing is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip ones - Danish and Dutch.

Half-hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full second floor, there is less living space, but construction costs are also not so high.

Slope angle and roof height

The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on snow and wind loads in your region. The higher snow loads, the higher you need to raise the ridge so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the ridge is lowered lower to reduce the area of ​​the slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations come in two directions. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable to be in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, you will have to raise the bar.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, take this factor into account. This determines the height to which the rafter system of a hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip type hip roof rafter system

If a hip roof is made, it is most often a hip roof. Let's talk about it first. The central part of the rafter system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters installed “in situ” - on the roof; two people are enough for such work. Layered roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but to lift and install ready-made trusses, you need either equipment (a crane) or a team of four or more people.

The main differences of the rafter system hip roof in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and a hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called rafters. They rely on external or internal corners buildings are longer than ordinary rafter legs. Particular attention should be paid to diagonal rafters, since they carry one and a half loads (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, joining them in width using nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a truss block.

Another rafter system for a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- element roofing system building. It is a beam or log laid on top along the perimeter outer wall. Serves as the extreme lower support for the rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of a hip roof usually exceeds standard length lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced ​​and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we obtain a beam of the required length and increase its load-bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than a solid beam of the same section. And one more point: spliced ​​beams for slanted rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.

If spliced ​​beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and/or trusses (racks).

• If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is sufficient, which rests on top part beams.
• For lengths from 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional stand or truss is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafters.
• If the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, a third one is needed, intermediate support- a stand that supports the middle of the run.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam resting on two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are installed if necessary).

A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150*100 mm, for the racks - 100*100 mm, for the slopes - 50*100 mm. This can be a beam of a suitable cross-section or spliced ​​beams.

Supporting the rafter leg

The upper end of the diagonal rafter legs rests on the ridge beam. The exact execution of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one purlin, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such an outlet is too large, it is then trimmed. But it’s not worth making it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The slanted diagonal legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the desired angle and joined on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be strengthened using metal overlay plates.

If there are two ridge spans (done if residential premises are planned mansard type), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

• If spliced ​​boards are used, a truss is required, which rests on the outriggers of the ridge girders. Diagonal rafters are trimmed and supported on a truss post.
• If timber is used, a crimp is installed at the point of support - a piece of board at least 50 mm thick. The board is attached with nails to two purlins, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

The lower part of the slanted rafter legs is trimmed horizontally and attached to the mauerlat or trim board. For greater reliability of the unit, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix it to it corner beam(in the picture below).

Fastening - with nails on both sides; if necessary, it can be additionally secured with wire twists or clamps.

How to attach sprigs and half-legs

Shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached to the installed diagonal rafter legs on one side, and on the other side - rafters that form a hip. They must be placed in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the external rafters (preferably in the direction of decreasing the pitch).

Typically, shortened rafters are trimmed and secured with 2-3 nails on both sides. This type of fastening is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, under each rafter you need to make a “notch” - a notch no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are trimmed, installed in the desired position, and the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A recess is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is secured with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do. But load bearing capacity such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The optimal way to attach the spigots and half-legs to the mowing beam can be considered as fastening them to nails with additional installation cranial bars (see picture above). For this, a beam with a cross section of 50*50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity and increases its load-bearing capacity.

How to fasten the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, and what kind of scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which thrust loads are contraindicated - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the embedded board, the second - on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

With this device, when the load changes, the roof “plays back” - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads; the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically downwards to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise with a complex roof structure (with junctions in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat/tying board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually done with nails; it can be reinforced with metal plates and corners.

The connection with the cutout is made if the roof has a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are extended by adding boards that are nailed right through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make the overhangs as long as you want without overspending on materials.

Danish half hip roof

The rafter system of a Danish-type hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference is in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, it is stuffed support board at least 5 cm thick. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is your choice. But the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will be. At large area half hip, you will have to calculate the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

But the low-slung support board allows you to install a horizontal window of sufficient area. This is beneficial if there is a living space under a hipped hip roof.

To prevent the crimp (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) from bending from downward loads, a short piece is installed - a piece of the same board that is nailed to the post supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the grooves, securing the short ones well with nails (installation step is staggered every 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the outer pair of rafter legs. Two methods of amplification are used:

• The outer rafters are made double.
• Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests on the bench or stand. They are fastened with nails, and the joints are reinforced by installing cuttings of boards.

If the house has rectangular shape and the hip is not too wide, you can either install struts or make the outer rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the rafter system of a half-hip Danish type hip roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.

Construction of a 4 pitched hipped roof using the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5 * 4.5 meters, we made a hip roof covered with soft tiles. The slope angle chosen was “floor material”, taking into account snow and wind loads - 30°. Since the structure is small, it was decided to do simple system(in the picture below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. For rafter lengths up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A 90*140 mm beam was used for the strapping.

We assembled the rafter system on the ground, secured it to support posts, then installed a continuous flooring made of, then -.

First, we assembled the harness that will be attached to support pillars. Next, we installed rafters that rest on the middle of the frame. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we place a stand, on top of which the rafter legs will be joined. In this version, this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for big houses- this stand can remain.

We take a board of the required section and lean it against the stand in the place where they will connect (depending on the desired angle of inclination). We mark how it should be cut (at the top, at the joint and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything unnecessary, try it on again, and adjust if necessary. Next, using this blank, we make three more of the same kind.

Now you can begin to assemble the rafter system of the hipped hipped roof. The most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The optimal way - reliable and not too complicated - is to take a piece of timber of a suitable cross-section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the edges is according to the cross-section of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the rafter system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies using the template we made, and mount it.

Using the same principle, we make half-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the rafter system of the hipped roof will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We install the assembled system on the gazebo posts, fasten it with nails, corners, and secure it with slopes. After this, you can install the sheathing (in this case, solid) and lay roofing material.

When the potential owner begins construction personal home, he doesn’t even suspect what awaits him ahead. Especially if this is a person who does not have much experience in construction matters. He has a lot of questions. And each one must be solved correctly, so that future generations can admire the created masterpiece for many years to come!

Then it will be family property that can be passed on to generations. Construction of a personal home implies this. And here, more than anyone else, we need a professional team. It is there that there are specialists with experience and necessary knowledge. They are the ones who know how to make a hip roof. But, in this case, the customer should not stand on the sidelines, but follow the course of events and help the team. This is the only way to build your own home!

In this article

Elements of a 4-slope roof

The roof consists of four planes that intersect, slopes. Of these, two with triangular shape. It is for them that the name is end elements. They seem to replace pediments. The two elements that remain have the shape of trapezoids. They are called façade. The angle of inclination for the slopes ranges from 15 degrees to 60. In this case, any covering material can be used. Its type depends on the preferences of the owner of the building. The four-slope structure consists of the following elements:

• insulation;
• hip roof;
• a ridge located at the intersection of the planes of the slopes;
• stingrays These are four roof surfaces located at angles to its very base;
• Overhangs are parts of the roof that protrude beyond the perimeter of its base. They are needed to protect the walls of the building from possible ingress of water. They are formed by increasing the legs of the rafters. Sometimes fillies are used for the purpose;
• stop systems. It is not visible from the outside at all, but plays the role of a frame. This is the support of a hipped roof. Form its configuration;
• drainage system, which can ensure the removal of excess liquid from the roof. This could be an external drain. It consists of a gutter, a funnel for receiving water, pipes located in the vertical direction;
• snow retainers, small sides, tripled along the edges of the slopes. They prevent snow from falling.

This is the classic type of hip design. Its advantages are strength, beautiful view. Flaw is a relative type of difficulty. And also a significant cost. For many potential customers this is a decisive argument. Not many people know how to equip it correctly. Before you start calculating the area of ​​the structure and the need for materials, you need to know a lot. To make a hip roof with your own hands. For example, you need to know the design features of the roof, the composition of its elements to be calculated.

Its main elements:

Calculation

This design is considered complex. The completed house will be the pride of the owner. For this reason, even before work on installing the roof, it is necessary to develop a project. In order not to get into trouble, not to make a mistake with the calculations, it is necessary to involve good specialists. Preferably engineers from a design organization.

Practice has long proven that you cannot save on attracting great specialists. Otherwise, finishing the calculations and design work is fraught with negative consequences. There will be big losses later. Namely, when construction is almost completed. Only the simplest drawings or elements can be calculated by the potential owner independently. But no more! Self-confident people especially suffer in these cases.

Determining the location of rafters and ridge beams

To determine the location for structures, you need to:

• mark a line for the axis located in the center, starting from the ends of the building; work should be done at the level of the top of the cornice. This is how the location of the ridge is determined;
• using a graduated ruler, which is located at one end on the marked line of the ridge beam, and the other rests on the side wall, determine the location for installing the rafters;
• after which the length for the overhang is determined with a ruler. At this point, the ruler should extend beyond the outside of the wall;
• exactly the same procedure is performed along the entire length of a certain wall, which is on this moment are considering.

The procedure is repeated for the remaining walls. This is how they get places for installing ridge beams and rafters. Calculations can be made somewhat simpler. To do this, you can use tables for coefficients. They indicate the ratios of certain indicators. For example: roof pitch/length for intermediate rafters/length for corner rafters.

Area calculation

Once the parameters for the rafter system are determined, their specific location is determined. You can begin to calculate the area to cover the hip roof. Now we need to divide it into fragments. These will be stingrays. And for each you need to calculate the area, taking into account the overhangs.

You can use formulas that you studied in school for calculations. After the calculations, their results must be added into a total. The result of the addition is the total area of ​​the hip roof. But that is not all. We must not forget that from this amount the area of ​​the chimney pipes and also the windows should be subtracted. After all, they are also located on the structure.

Calculation of inclination angles

This calculation takes into account the amount of possible precipitation, the degree of load from winds and snow. Purpose of the attic, roof covering material, etc. Only because of the complexity of the calculations can specialized programs be used. In order to avoid making irreparable mistakes, it is necessary at this moment to involve people whose specialty is private sector design. After all, this is your home!

There are also half-hip roofs, hip roofs, and broken roofs in construction. All are used by preference. The semi-hip roof differs from the classic one in that its hips have a truncated shape. This type of structure is characterized by good characteristics operation. Attractive appearance. But this solution is complex and expensive. Requires a lot of knowledge!

A hipped hip roof is considered a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide to self-construction, first go through the preparatory path - study theoretical materials, including those presented in this publication. Then assemble a model of the rafter system without large sizes to understand the components, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, we suggest you take the first step and consider...

Design features

This type of roofing structure, shown in the photo, is a common ridge roof, but without vertical pediments. Instead, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips, which have a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, you get another type of roof - a hip roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, there is no ridge as such.

The hip roof rafter system consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

• Mauerlat, lying - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
• roof slopes are formed by inclined beams installed at calculated intervals - rafter legs;
• together with stiffening elements - tie rods, racks and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
• ridge girder - a beam connecting the upper points of the trusses;
• in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened due to an additional part - a filly.

Along the line of convergence of the planes, they are installed hip rafters, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called sprigs, form steeper or flatter slopes on the sides of the house.

When constructing 4-slope roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower chord (tightening) rests only on the external fences of a private house, so installing them on spans that are too long is irrational due to the increased consumption of materials for the stiffeners. See the drawing for the construction of a hanging truss:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to rest on a solid interior partition and overlap large spans without increasing material consumption. Beginners in the roofing business should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to build a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope of the main slopes increases, and the truss receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. These parts are usually placed on beams or floor beams wooden house. Ceilings attic room are formed thanks to horizontal ties connecting the rafters at the top, as done in the diagram:

Installation of a hip roof step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is erected with your own hands in several stages:

1. Creation of a project with calculation of load-bearing structures.
2. Harvesting timber and other roofing materials.
3. Installation of the rafter system.
4. Laying covering with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the construction, it is strongly recommended to entrust the execution design work engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the installation pitch of the rafters, their cross-section, the number of struts and ties in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

The drawing shown above is an example. hipped roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m each. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41°. This design can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated on the drawing (9 meters). Please note important point: the more the hips are inclined, the greater the load experienced by the hips and the central ridge knot where they rest. In this example, it is better to place the hips at an angle of 45-50°.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is correct installation joints of corner rafters with the Mauerlat and the upper chord of the trusses in different designs. This is another reason to consult with designers who develop junction units individually. So that you understand what we are talking about, we present drawings of the upper support unit, where the hip rafter leg is adjacent to the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge girder between the trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to the tie and additional struts, as prescribed in the drawing:

The lower support leg assembly on the mauerlat and splicing the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at different angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual overview of more complex system where the hip is combined with the bay window, we suggest watching a training video:

Selection of lumber

Before making a rafter system for a hip roof, you should choose high-quality and dried timber. In terms of price-quality ratio, the most suitable option– coniferous tree – spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knots, rot and traces of insect pests are unacceptable.

We present the most popular sizes of lumber used for phased construction hip roofs:

• main rafter – single board 50 x 200 mm or double board 40 x 150 mm;
• Mauerlat: minimum section – 100 x 150 mm, optimal – 20 x 20 cm;
• narozhniki – board 5 x 15 cm;
• purlins – timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
• struts, crossbars - boards with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
• racks – block 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also come in handy.

Note. If roofing structures Design engineers calculate for you, then they will draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

Traditionally, 25-32 mm thick boards are used for the lathing for laying corrugated sheets or metal tiles, and 5 x 5 cm bars are used for the counter-lattice.

Installation of strapping beams on walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the mauerlat is installed on the side walls, under the hips the strapping is done along the entire perimeter. Exceptions are frame, log and timber houses, where the upper wall crossbar or the last tier of logs acts as a mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On walls made of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam block - a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is installed before laying the framing. Mounting studs are embedded into it, onto which the strapping beam is subsequently placed. The step-by-step work order looks like this:

1. Installation of panel formwork, tying the reinforcement frame with embedded parts and filling the belt with M200 concrete mixture.
2. Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bitumen primer.
3. Installation of timber and its fixation on studs.

The corner connections of the Mauerlat are made by cutting into half a tree. In the same way, the timber is increased in length if the standard size of 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal braces are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in to prevent the beams from moving apart under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to process everything wooden parts antiseptic and fire retardant. One protects the wood from rotting, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the rafter system

It is customary to install large roofing trusses locally, because to lift them from the ground, you will need twice as many workers. IN wooden houses First of all, all the beams are installed ceiling, and temporary flooring is laid over them. To install the high ridge, you will also need scaffolding.

The step-by-step assembly of the hip roof structure is performed in the following order:

1. As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to install the central supports where the ridge girder is attached.
2. The main rafters are installed, which are cut at the top and bottom at the desired angle. At the ridge, the opposing rafter legs are brought out into one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). The beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
3. After installing the main trusses, strengthen them with crossbars and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
4. Install the ribs - the outer hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping beams is carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above.
5. Saw off and nail the flanges to the frame. Each of them is cut under different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
6. If necessary, secure the fillets to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the cornice with boards.

Advice. Since the hip ribs are very long, they need to be extended and additional supports installed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the finishing coating

This final operation is performed by traditional technology, which provides for ventilation of the under-roof space and installation of a waterproofing layer made of a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, while at the same time the film freely allows water vapor to pass out. Difference from regular coverings gable roofs one thing: additional flashings are placed along the fracture lines (on the edges of the hips).

The covering material is laid in the following order:

1. The rafter system is completely covered diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled out horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. The joints must be taped with tape.
2. The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through counter-lattice bars with a cross-section of 5 x 5 cm, which provide ventilation under the metal tiles or other material.
3. Sheathing boards are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs. The installation interval depends on the chosen covering, and for soft tiles the filling is done continuously.
4. Roofing material and all fittings are installed at the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimney pipes.

Note. Counter-lattice bars nailed to the rafters should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed down with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

Insulation of a hip roof is done both during installation of the covering and after it; the main thing is to assemble the correct “pie” shown in the diagram. In the first case, mineral wool is laid on top, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

You need to understand that a hip roof has few advantages over a gable roof. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But the homeowner will have to pay for this with increased consumption of timber and increased complexity of construction, and therefore time costs. Hence the advice: take your time with the decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already taken it, then do the roofing with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with construction engineers.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

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