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Interior wall decoration with MDF panels: lathing, thermal insulation, installation. Application of MDF panels for walls Methods of installing MDF panels on walls

When renovating a house, you always want to kill two birds with one stone and combine high quality low cost materials. At first glance, such an idea seems utopian, but what if we told you that it is quite real?

In this article we will not only talk about how sheathing is done MDF walls panels, but we will also show a short video on how to cover MDF walls.

Something that must not be forgotten

Before moving on to a detailed answer to the question of how to cover walls with MDF panels, let's take a little time useful tips. In order for the repair to be of high quality and last for many years, it must be done in compliance with all rules and regulations.

Often, such rules are neglected, and then, when the finishing begins to deteriorate, they complain about low-quality materials and everything else.

Most often in such situations, the problem lies with the person who did the repairs, so here are some practical tips:

• Before covering the walls with MDF panels, be sure to prepare the base. The walls need additional protection to prevent fungus from forming on their surface. This can be done using a special deep penetration primer or impregnation for concrete or stone surfaces.
• If the sheathing under the panels is made of wooden blocks, treat them all with wood impregnations, which protect the bars from moisture absorption and from bark beetles. There is no need to skimp on impregnation; the better the wooden guides are protected, the longer the finish will last, and it will not have to be edited.

• In fact, walls covered with MDF do not need additional protection, but if you install them, for example, in the kitchen (see Wall decoration in the kitchen: choosing a material), where it is traditionally difficult environment, you might consider varnishing the panels. This will not affect the appearance in any way, but will provide additional protection from moisture and mechanical influences.
• Wall covering with MDF panels can be done in several ways. We will talk about this in more detail below, but for now we will only say that you need to decide on the method even before purchasing the material. The fact is that the panels may differ in the groove configuration, and for example, MDF for fastening with a stapler is not suitable for fixing with clamps.
• Modern manufacturers produce many various panels, differing in quality characteristics. There are laminated and moisture resistant. Of course, the price for them is also different, but in some cases there is no point in overpaying, for example, if you are covering the walls of a bedroom (see Decorating the bedroom: looking for options), then spending on laminated MDF will be simply pointless.

Advice! If you decide to do the repairs yourself, before you start work, be sure to watch how to cover walls with MDF panels video. This will help you understand the essence of the process and glean some subtleties that we cannot mention due to the scope of the article.

So, we have decided on the intricacies of the process, which means we can proceed directly to installation, and it begins not with the panels themselves, but with careful preparation of the surface and the manufacture of the sheathing.

Preparatory work

In fact, covering walls with MDF is not difficult; it is much more difficult to prepare the walls and assemble the sheathing. The subsequent quality of the finish and how long it will last without alteration and restoration will depend on this.

First of all, we prepare all the necessary tools so that we don’t have to look for them throughout the house later. Everything should be at hand, and then the process will go much faster and easier.

So, to finish the panels we will need the following set of tools:

• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Building level.
• Hammer.
• Wood saw.
• A hammer drill and a drill for it, with a diameter corresponding to the selected dowels.
• Brushes or paint roller.
• Construction stapler and staples for it.

Now that everything is at hand, let's move on to the next stage.

Wall marking

Before you cover the wall with MDF and make the sheathing, you need to clearly decide which way your panels will go, horizontally or vertically. It is necessary to decide at this stage, since the installation takes place in a perpendicular order.

If you have decided on this issue, then you can proceed to applying markings. We'll talk about vertical installation panels, since it is considered more common.

First of all, we need to secure the outer bars, and to do this we find the lowest point from the ceiling and from the floor. We retreat approximately five centimeters from these points, and using a building level we draw a line along the entire perimeter of the room.

Now we have the extreme lines, and, starting from them, we divide the entire wall into equal sections, approximately 40-60 centimeters each. This distance is enough so that the panels do not sag and stand level.

Now that all the lines have been drawn, we put marks on each of them approximately 50 centimeters apart. At these points, the guide battens will be fixed to the wall, so you shouldn’t waste time on trifles; the more often the fasteners are in place, the stronger the structure will be.

Construction of sheathing

Instructions on how to properly assemble the sheathing are clearly shown in the video in this article. Be sure to watch it until the end to clearly understand the whole process, and in the meantime we will continue.

In those places where we placed marks on the horizontal lines, using a hammer drill we drill holes of the required depth. Now, using dowels, we nail the metal braces to the wall, which will hold the guides, and bend their ends perpendicular to the wall.

To make the sheathing, you can use three materials, each of which has its own pros and cons:

1. Wooden beam. The cheapest, but at the same time weak material. As you know, wood is susceptible to many negative impacts, and subsequently certain difficulties may arise with it.
2. Metal profile for drywall. Metal is more resistant to various influences, but upon contact with moisture, it begins to become covered with rust, which after a certain time can appear on the surface of the panels.
3. Galvanized profile. The most expensive material of all listed, but at the same time the most stable. The galvanized profile is not afraid of contact with water and easily tolerates temperature changes, so it can be used in rooms with an aggressive environment, such as the kitchen or bathroom.

Important! If you need to cut a galvanized profile, under no circumstances use a grinder for this. From high revs, that's all protective covering it will simply burn out and the profile will remain unprotected.

Panel installation

So, our sheathing is ready, which means we have directly approached the question of how to cover the walls with MDF panels. In fact, the worst is already behind us and the process of installing panels is the easiest stage. You can start installation from any side that is convenient for you, there are no specific rules here, we just take the panel, place it against the corner and, using a stapler, through the ridge, fasten it to the sheathing.

One of the photos shows how the installation begins, and that the next bracket is driven into the ridge. We remind you that we are talking about how to sheathe walls with MDF boards using a stapler, and if you choose clamps, the technology will be slightly different, and you can read more about this in one of the articles on our website.

Next, insert the next panel into the groove, the one we just secured and repeat all the steps. This way, all the walls are sewn up, and there shouldn’t be any difficulties at this stage. The walls are ready, and all that remains is to fix the decorative corners. They are mounted with PVA glue. Everything is simple and clear, so we won’t even focus on this.

And in conclusion

Well, now we have figured out the question of how to sheathe walls with MDF. As you can see, there is nothing complicated or impossible here. The main thing is not to be afraid of difficulties, and to boldly get down to work, and if you still have questions, then you can read other articles on our website, where, we are sure, you will find answers to all your questions.

Decorating walls with MDF panels is a method that has many advantages over other types construction work. The fact is that the technology allows installation in a fairly short time. A significant advantage is that there is no need to carry out additional processing coverings. Cladding is carried out in different ways: glue and frame. It is the latter method that is considered the most labor-intensive.

This material has numerous advantages that make it indispensable for... These include the following indicators:

1. Simplicity of installation work. Even if you use the longest frame method, then the work will be much less than when laying drywall.
2. Large selection of shades and textures. MDF wall panels allow you to choose an option that will appeal to any person and can create a completely unique interior.
3. Possibility to get several results at once. Namely, to build a sheathing that will hide numerous communications and serve as the basis for insulation, as well as create a smooth decorative surface.
4. Durability and reliability. The density of MDF board is superior to some species natural wood, and the decorative surface is made in such a way that it is very difficult to damage it.
5. Easy to care for. Indeed, cleaning is done with a damp cloth. Any stain can be removed with alcohol solutions (except cosmetics).

MDF panels allow you to create a unique interior design, and they are also easy to care for

On a note! The wood-fiber material is covered with a decorative layer by lamination or veneering. And the problem often arises that after removing stains with alcohol mixtures, numerous stains remain on the surface. Get rid of them by reapplying the solution. The main thing is to continue mashing until the liquid has completely evaporated.

Naturally, such positive properties indicate that MDF panels for the wall are an excellent option. But we must not forget about some disadvantages:

• It is simply impossible to get a perfect smooth coating. There will always be a small joint between adjacent elements. If desired, it can serve as an excellent decorative component.
• An improperly constructed frame is a threat to human health. The resulting gap is perfect place for the growth of mold and fungi. The glue method has the same disadvantage.
• A damp room poses a threat to the covering material and frame. The risk of warping is quite high.

Thus, we can conclude that finishing MDF panels is advisable when it is planned to follow the installation technology.

Despite the ease of installation, MDF panels have their drawbacks

Preparation of tools and material

For quick and comfortable work, you need to prepare tools and purchase materials in advance. The event is carried out using the following devices:

1. An electric jigsaw with a set of files that must be selected specifically for wood.
2. Plumb and level. The laser tool has proven itself well.
3. Pencil and tape measure. It is better to have an even strip or profile for accurate marking.
4. Screwdriver. A drill that can switch to low speed is suitable.
5. Stapler. A simple option is used for home work.
6. Hammer.

Installation of MDF panels requires special tools

The frame method of attaching panels to walls requires more materials than the adhesive method, which requires only a special mixture and self-tapping screws (for mounting the first MDF element).

For cladding using the frame method you will need:

• Wooden beam, pre-impregnated with antiseptic. It is better to choose options with a section of 20*40 and 20*50. If possible, then apply metallic profile– select the same one as for laying gypsum board slabs.
• Insulation that is glued directly to the wall. You can use options that fit into cells. They must be secured first.
• Metal hangers.
• Clamps – for fixing panels.
• Dowels. The condition of the base must be taken into account.
• Panels and additional elements, which are used to create beautiful angles and transitions.
• Consumables.

In principle, a limited amount of money will be required to install MDF panels Money. Of course, if you don’t pay attention to products that are covered with veneer valuable species wood.

Surface preparation steps

Before covering the walls, you need to prepare the surface. It consists of several stages, each of which begins only after the previous one has been completed. The most important rule, the observance of which makes it possible to obtain the desired result, is a completely dry wall.

Work cannot be carried out in the following cases:

1. Even minor damp areas are observed.
2. The surface is covered with frost.
3. There are traces of mold and mildew.
4. The top layer is destroyed.

If there are no such troubles, then you can start preliminary preparation. It is completely identical for all installation methods wall panels MDF.

Complete cleaning

One serious mistake is often made - wallpaper pasted on the walls remains. This absolutely cannot be allowed. They serve as an excellent breeding ground for bacterial growth. And when glue method– will not allow the elements to be securely fastened.

You should completely get rid of old wallpaper and whitewash

The whitewash layer is also removed, although many craftsmen claim that such a procedure is not necessary. In fact, when the need arises to apply a primer, it is old layer will interfere with its absorption. Therefore, it is better to clean the wall completely.

Fighting mold and mildew

Unfortunately, this problem occurs everywhere, especially in new buildings and old ones. wooden houses. It's quite difficult to fight her. There are recommendations that indicate that it is enough to treat the damaged areas with special solutions. Many manufacturers even produce them in spray form.

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove fungus and mold

It’s worth mentioning right away that you can defeat the fungus only by destroying its entire mycelium. Therefore, there is only one way out - removing the plaster to the base, thoroughly impregnating it with special solutions. Of course, the amount of work increases, but there is a possibility of completely eliminating the threat to health.

On a note! Fighting mold (fungus) is a very long undertaking. It is necessary to eliminate sources of constant moisture penetration, and also to treat all contaminated apartments in apartment building. This will allow you to produce high-quality cladding MDF panels.

This procedure is necessary even if you plan to install a frame. The fact is that any cracks can reduce the thermal insulation effect. The work is carried out using the following technology:

1. The putty mixture is prepared. It is better to choose gypsum or acrylic compositions.
2. Seams and cracks must first be widened. They are thoroughly cleaned of the remnants of the old solution.
3. The area is well saturated with primer compounds.
4. Next, when the soil dries, the mixture is applied. All voids must be filled.

Installation of MDF panels requires complete sealing of the wall

Primer coating

This event allows you to increase the adhesion of materials, as well as to carry out the installation yourself more efficiently. For work, compositions are selected that have deep penetration. To further protect the surface, the mixture must contain antiseptics. The primer is applied in two layers, each of which is well dried. The walls are especially carefully impregnated before installing MDF panels with glue.

On a note! Treatment of wooden surfaces should be carried out using similar technology. But the mixture must contain fire retardants, which will give the lumber fire resistance.

Surface priming is a mandatory stage of preparatory work.

Construction of the frame

It is impossible to sheathe walls with MDF panels without a well-built frame. Need to create reliable design which will withstand the load. Installation is carried out in several stages.

Marking

Before you start marking, you need to decide on the layout of the elements. They can be mounted: horizontally, vertically and diagonally. All positions can be combined, but this requires the installation of dividing decorative elements. For horizontal arrangement fragments - the lathing is laid vertically on the wall with your own hands. Accordingly, for vertical cladding it is the other way around.

Marking is carried out according to this principle:

1. To obtain vertical markings, a plumb line is used. According to its location, points are marked between which lines are drawn.
2. If horizontal marking is required, a level is used.

To apply vertical markings you will need a plumb line

Fastening the guides

Covering walls with MDF panels on lathing is done using two methods. The choice of a specific method depends on the condition of the base.

• The guides are laid directly on the wall:
  • This option is suitable for wooden beam, in which holes are drilled in increments of 30-40 cm.
  • The guides are applied to the marking lines and the holes made are marked.
  • Drilling and installation of dowels is carried out.
  • The racks are securely fixed with screws. Next, you can install MDF panels.
• The frame is erected using additional suspensions:
  • The technology is used in cases where the surface has significant unevenness and differences.
  • Suspensions are installed according to the existing markings. The fastening pitch is 40-50 cm.
  • The upper and lower guides are fixed around the perimeter.
  • Racks are installed and secured.

Installation of panels on the frame

Wall cladding with MDF panels begins after complete preparation. The sheathing is once again checked for strength, and the joints are pulled. If necessary, communications are carried out, and the locations of sockets and switches are immediately marked. The cable is laid in cable channels, which are corrugated hollow tubes. They are fixed to the walls with their own hands.

Cladding work begins with cutting the products. But if there is significant curvature of the ceiling and floor covering, which has not been previously corrected, then each element is cut off after careful measurement.

On a note! The facing material has a decorative front side, which can be significantly damaged when cutting off excess. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the location of the teeth on the jigsaw file.

Installation of MDF panels on walls has the following technology:

1. A ridge is cut from the first fragment, which is used for installation in the groove.
2. The element is installed in a corner and screwed with self-tapping screws along the edge, which is located directly in the corner.
3. Further, installation of MDF is quick and easy. Clamps are installed in the groove of the first part, which are fixed to the sheathing using a stapler or self-tapping screws (nails).
4. The next fragment is installed exactly in the groove. If required, the location of the clamp is trimmed (on one or both sides), this is necessary so that the fixation is reliable.
5. The last element is trimmed with a small gap to the wall. If you do not do this, it will be difficult to insert it. It is secured with self-tapping screws.
6. Decorative elements are glued to cover the corners and screw locations.
7. Cladding walls with MDF elements requires preparing holes for sockets and switches. This drilling is carried out before installing each part. Drill bits are used for this.

From the above we can conclude that laying MDF material is not a labor-intensive procedure, but requires compliance with certain rules.

Choice facing materials for walls can cause a headache due to the huge range that offers modern market. Now consumers prefer safe materials, but not everyone can afford them. MDF panels are environmentally friendly clean material and at the same time relatively inexpensive, so they are chosen quite often. How walls are decorated with MDF panels and what the features of the material are, we will look at in the article.

The planks are suitable for cladding any room: kitchen, bedroom, corridor, living room. The panels are used for cladding in the presence of curved walls, since the design hides imperfections and does not require careful preparation, which allows you to save on the purchase of additional materials.
Planks are made by pressing under the influence of high temperature. This is how small particles stick to each other. If you install the planks on the frame, you can lay an additional layer of thermal insulation for the room. This is especially true for apartments with poor heating and private houses.

Another saving point is ease of installation. For installation it is not necessary to call specialists; the work can be done on your own. After installation, the panels do not need to be processed additionally - they are completely ready. Where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages. MDF panels are no exception. Their surface can be scratched if handled carelessly. They also cannot withstand strong blows.
In the event of a fire, the slats will support the combustion. Therefore, the wiring must be insulated very well. To prevent them from burning, they are treated with special compounds, but these are additional costs and work.
But despite this, the panels will last for many years.

The main thing is not to use brushes or detergents with abrasive components. Finishing the cooking area in the kitchen with slats is also not permissible.

Types of panels

Like any material, MDF panels are classified into groups according to certain criteria: texture, size, shape, manufacturing technology.

There are several ways to make planks:

• Wholesale;
• Laminated;
• Moisture resistant.

Whole-pressed ones, as the name implies, are made by pressing fine particles tree. These planks will last a long time, they are durable and smooth. Decorative properties Such panels immediately catch the eye.
Laminated panels are also made by pressing, but after production the plank is covered with a special film. That is why this type has a wide selection of colors. Only the best wood fibers are used to make waterproof planks. They can be installed in rooms with high humidity: kitchen or bathroom.

According to their form they are distinguished into:

• Rack and pinion;
• Tiled;
• Leafy.

Slat strips are very easy to install, which is why they are most often purchased. For installation, you need a frame, which is simply filled with panels. The length and width of the planks can be different, you can choose required size for a room of any size.
Tile planks are similar to regular tiles, only more larger area. The tiles are installed in the same way as the slats - on the frame. It's kind of cassette ceiling. Leafy can reach large sizes. More often they are decorated with drawings.

According to their texture, the planks are divided into:

• Veneered;
• Glossy;
• Painted;
• 3D panels.

Veneered planks imitate natural wooden surface. The MDF sheet is covered with veneer, which is made from different varieties tree. This type is highly expensive.

Glossy panels are covered with film to achieve the desired effect. As you know, glossy smooth surfaces much easier to clean up. However, any damage on such a surface will be visible to the naked eye.

Painted planks are not used so often for cladding, although paint adds variety; more often, furniture is made from painted planks.

The surface of the planks can be glossy or matte. Drawings are applied to 3D panels that imitate various materials. Three-dimensional drawings or photographs are also applied. Such panels can be made to order, it all depends on your imagination.

How to choose panels

Before work, you need to calculate the amount of material. However, you should not buy the material end-to-end; buy several panels in reserve in case they are damaged during work or during transportation.

Calculating the amount of material is simple. Measure the total area of ​​the walls and divide by the size of the panels. This is how you get the right number. The cost of the planks depends on the design and characteristics. Waterproof glossy panels with a 3D pattern will cost the most. Do not buy thin panels; their thickness should be at least 1 cm.

Preparing walls for paneling

Careful preparation for the frame structure is not required. The main thing is to treat the wall with an antifungal compound. Everything else depends on your personal desire. But still, if you still spend renovation work, then it’s better to put the wall in order. Moreover, over time it will be much more difficult to do this. This is especially true for stains; the longer they remain on the surface, the more difficult it is to remove them.

The preparation process consists of several stages:

Necessary tool for the job

During the installation process, you will need plumb lines, which can be made from rope and weights. For marking you need a level and a tape measure. For installation, a screwdriver and an electric drill. If it is necessary to cut panels, use a jigsaw. It is also suitable for cutting metal parts.

Installation methods

The planks can be installed on a metal or wooden frame, or using glue. The choice of frame material depends on the room. So in a room with high humidity it is better to use metal, and in a private house wooden.

Installation on glue implies a flat surface, so preliminary work on preparing the wall must be completed completely and with care.

Glue

Installation with glue does not take much time. But later, if an individual strip is damaged, you will not be able to remove one panel without damaging the others.
The glue is applied to the panel in thin lines in three or four rows and glued to the wall. There is no need to press with force, a little pressure is enough. This fills the entire wall. Excess glue must be removed immediately before it dries.

Frame

First decide on the installation method of the panels: horizontal or vertical installation. The frame profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

For horizontal positioning of the frame, marking lines are drawn using a level, and for vertical positioning using plumb lines. The frame guide strips are installed at a distance of 50 cm.

Wooden frame

The bars are installed on the wall using dowels. A hole is drilled in the plank, a dowel is inserted into it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. The fasteners are placed in increments of 40 cm.

Metal carcass

The metal profile is also attached with self-tapping screws. First, it is pressed against the wall and the location of the screws is marked, then holes are punched and then the profile is screwed on. After its installation, hangers are attached to it.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall. The evenness of installation of subsequent ones depends on the location of the starting bar, so check it with a level. Using a tenon, secure the panel in the corner to the guide profile. Additionally, secure it with self-tapping screws. Next, the tenon is installed in the groove of the previous panel. Thus, the wall is completely filled. The last strip usually has to be cut off. It is secured with self-tapping screws and subsequently covered with decorative corners.

How to mount MDF panels to the wall, and on what basis, the decision must be made taking into account the characteristics of the wall geometry, the size of the room, the presence of communications and constant heating. Despite their enormous popularity, MDF wall boards are quite picky about operating conditions, so you should not fasten them with the first method that comes to hand, so as not to re-lay the finish a second time.

Dimensions of MDF panels

Often, consultants of trading companies present MDF boards as a lightweight version of particleboard panels, especially if you decipher English abbreviation. Accordingly, it is recommended to fasten them in the same way as in the case of using chipboard. In fact, MDF panels differ significantly in structure and production method from particle board, which allows you to fasten the material at lower costs and at higher speeds.

There are only three main differences:

• Thin MDF boards are made from recycled cellulose fiber, which contains virtually no polysugars - a staple food for bacteria, fungus and rodents. Chipboard uses ordinary chips filled with phenol-formaldehyde resin, so they are secured with special tongues;
• The boards are made by pressing wood fiber mass with the addition of hydrogen peroxide. At a temperature of 250 o C, lignin and part of the cellulose are welded by the remains of caramelized polysaccharides into a dense fiber mass. In thick slabs, the MDF core is additionally impregnated polymer resin, which makes it possible to fasten without the risk of material delamination;
• The bending strength of the panel is only slightly inferior to plywood with greater ductility and resistance to moisture. Most brands of MDF can be mounted on walls even in rooms with low levels of ventilation.

The difference, at first glance, is insignificant, but it is the strength and elasticity of the cellulose fiber base of the MDF panel that makes it possible to fasten the cladding slabs using end locks.

Even with a strong temperature difference, the MDF panel shows a level of expansion that is significantly lower than that of plastic or conventional wooden lining, so the material can be fixed with smaller gaps, which is especially important for boards of medium and large thickness.

What sizes are most popular?

Three size groups are used for wall cladding:

• Thin slabs, size group 5-9 mm thick, width 153, 198, 200,325 and 2070 mm;
• Medium MDF panels, thickness 10-18 mm, width 2070 mm;
• Oversized slabs, thickness 19-38 mm, width 2070 mm.

There are no restrictions on external dimensions, and the maximum thickness of the slabs is limited by the pressing capabilities of up to 40 mm. Double-layer MDF panels with a maximum thickness of up to 60 mm are also produced, used for the manufacture of reusable formwork and roofing lining. But the quality outer surface The number of such slabs is quite low, so they are not used for wall decoration.

Installation of MDF panels

Pressed cellulose fibers retain heat and absorb noise much better than plastic or wood. In addition, the MDF panel has a certain anisotropy of properties; it can be cut and processed in almost any order. Attaching the panels is easy and even a novice tiler can do it.

For home purposes, panels can be mounted in three ways:

• Lay the slabs on the glue;
• Mount the cladding on a wooden or metal frame;
• Installation of MDF panels using the hanging method.

The latter case is used as an exceptional way of cladding walls in a house made of timber or rounded logs. It is necessary to mount MDF boards on a ceiling suspension profile with a small gap between the floor and the lower edge of the board. The cladding ends up suspended on the profile, and as the walls shrink, the MDF sags along with the timber material.

It is clear that for a wooden house it would be more preferable to use narrow slabs, 190-200 mm wide, while MDF is better fasten in a vertical direction. If it is not known exactly about the planned amount of wall shrinkage, then it is best to attach the decorative trim with a gap increased by 2-3 cm. Firstly, this ensures that if excessive shrinkage occurs, the floor will not tear the slabs off the walls, and secondly, the gaps will ensure a normal level of ventilation and ventilation of the space between the panels and the wall.

Installation on a metal frame

Installation of panels on a supporting frame made of galvanized profile is recognized by experts as the most rational and reliable way of fastening any cellulose-fiber materials. Even heavy slabs with a density of up to 1.5-1.8 g/cm 3 can be attached to a metal frame without any problems. The metal will not suffer from condensation or soaking of the walls as a result of burst pipes, water leaks in the apartment on the floor above or a break in the roof.

Frame assembly begins with installation starting profile and side strips. MDF panels are light in weight, so it is enough to install a number of vertical profiles No. 50 in increments of 40-50 cm. Using a galvanized U-profile makes it possible to attach MDF to the walls of a room approximately two to three times faster than any other method.

Two or three drops of silicone applied to the profile will even out the load on the wall and will prevent the cladding from flapping in a strong wind if there is a ventilation gap behind the decorative MDF lamellas.

Installation on a wooden frame

The easiest way to mount MDF panels is on wooden frame. There are two options for wall cladding using cellulose fiber panels. It all depends on the size of the room and the condition of the walls.

If a slight reduction in space due to the sheathing is not critical, a frame made of wooden slats sewn onto walls using metal hanger holders. For small and small rooms, most often it is necessary to partially cut off and knock down a layer of plaster in order to level the surface along a vertical plumb line and make it as smooth as possible.

In any case, the starting strip is initially laid on the floor and under the ceiling. Using a long building level, the installation points of the hangers are marked on the wall and the minimum required overhang of the side lobes of the fasteners is determined.

If you plan to install horizontal MDF slats, the supporting strips are mounted vertically. To install full-size panels with a width of more than 200 mm, the walls are sewn in both directions. Each wooden plank of the sheathing is aligned along the starting guides and fixed with the suspension petals using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

For relatively level and dry brick, concrete or block walls, the sheathing can be attached directly to the wall using dowels. In this case, more work is added, since each plank before fastening has to be adjusted for a long time using shim washers in order to maintain a single vertical plane. But you can save 3-4 cm internal space, which can be very useful, for example, when decorating the walls of a small bathroom or corridor.

Glue installation

Using lathing or a load-bearing frame always eats up an additional 3-7 cm of space on each wall. Usage frame system counts a good decision, but it is not at all necessary to fence a frame jungle if the walls of the room are for the future MDF cladding the panels turn out to be smooth, without serious defects or deviations from the vertical.

In this case, it is enough to clean the walls, prime them with acrylic primer and apply a thin layer of insulating putty. The lime sublayer will help to further level the walls and improve the adherence of MDF boards to the supporting surface.

Laying panels on walls using glue is carried out in two options:

• Each MDF is glued to the wall with one lamella, from ceiling to floor, with fixation along the end edge using self-tapping screws and plastic plugs;
• The material is laid on the wall horizontal stripes from corner to corner after assembling and gluing in corner and edge parts.

If the slats are glued directly to the wall, then the end joints are not glued or treated with sealing materials. Most often, fairly large panels, 40-60 cm wide, are laid on walls using glue. This method is more advantageous from a technological point of view, since the load from the considerable weight of the MDF panel is distributed not over several clamps or staples, but over the entire surface of the slab and walls. What does this give? Greater reliability, if the top row of MDF lamellas breaks, the middle and bottom rows will hold the entire structure.

Before attaching the MDF panels to the wall, the back side is covered with small portions of glue. These can be dots, spirals, short stripes. The main thing is that the adhesive material is evenly distributed over the wall surface.

As glue, it is best to use automotive sealant, polyurethane adhesives and homemade adhesives based on a mixture of acetone and polystyrene foam. Acrylic and polyvinyl acetate adhesives hold MDF panels rather weakly.

For your information! The MDF sticker on the sealant makes it possible to trim and remove the panel from the wall if necessary without damaging the surface. Stiffer alkyd, polystyrene and acrylic adhesives can tear off part of the back surface.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall

The process of installing cellulose fiber panels is relatively simple and easy to understand, even for a beginner. If used horizontal method laying, then the bottom panel or lamella is installed first, directly resting on the starting strip of the frame. It needs to be laid on glue, aligned construction level and secure with a stapler or self-tapping screw.

Before laying the next panel on the wall, it is necessary to install the corner or edge cladding elements, fix them on the wall, and only then proceed with laying the next parts of MDF.

How to fasten MDF panels to a bar or profile is selected individually in each specific case, based on the fastening conditions and the size of the material. Relatively thin, 6-9 mm lamellas are snapped into place with tongue-and-groove locks, after which the free end is sewn to the beam with staples and self-tapping screws. If it is assumed that it is possible to periodically remove the MDF cladding from the wall to inspect communications or wiring laid behind the decorative trim, then the panels are installed with clamps.

Thick slabs are mounted directly on the walls using glue and dowels, sealing the joints with acrylic putty and then gluing wallpaper or PVC film.

A difficult option on how to install MDF on walls with insulation

MDF boards are much simpler and easier to handle than heavy drywall, plywood or plastic, while the strength of the panels is enough to build two or even three-layer cladding options from a fiber composite with insulation as an intermediate layer.

For example, cold external walls made of profiles, siding or concrete blocks are hemmed from the inside with HDF class MDF boards, with a density of 800-1800 kg/m3. The thickness of the slabs is 25-40 mm. The laid panels are stitched at the joints with oblique screws and staples, and the seam itself is rubbed with polymer mastic.

The material is treated with impregnation, which ensures good vapor transmission with high resistance to surface condensate. The slabs are fastened to the external walls “cold” - using steel dowels and carpentry screws. WITH inside The slab cladding is sewn on with wooden slats or strips cut from slabs.

A steam membrane is stretched over the laid thermal insulation and hammered in with horizontal slats with a cross-section of 20x20 mm. The last step is to sew the lungs onto the slatted sheathing. decorative panels MDF class LDF with wood texture, natural stone or veneered.

Due to the low density of LDF, 200-600 kg/m 3, MDF panels perfectly transmit steam, which is removed through the ventilation gap and the ceiling ventilation seam. In this way the walls are sheathed in summer kitchens, balconies, verandas, any premises with frame-type walls.

Features of finishing with MDF panels

Most professional finishers prefer to work with MDF, since there is no dust and dirt, as is the case with drywall, installation is faster, and there are much fewer problems.

Assembly and installation of MDF on walls is in many ways similar to laying laminate floors, the only difference being that there are more options for choosing patterns decorative design premises and a much more complex arrangement of corner and slope sectors of the walls.

Slopes

Scheme of arrangement of door or window slopes no different from plasterboard options. If the slats were laid vertically on the walls, then to design a window or doorway it is enough to cut a panel of the required height and width and stick it to the slope plane with mounting foam or sealant.

If the walls in the room are protected by horizontal panels, then the slopes will have to be assembled from sections with self-tapping screws and plastic plugs.

Corners and crevices

Between the laid additional elements and the main part of the cladding, cracks and gaps always form. They have to be eliminated with the help of special decorative corner trims and decorative skirting boards.

All auxiliary decor is glued to “Titanium” or “Mounting Moment for MDF”, a small amount of glue is applied to the edge along the gap, after which a corner strip is installed at the joint. To prevent the decor from coming off, the corner is temporarily fixed with tape.

Sockets and switches

Every room has at least a couple of outlets and one switch. In order not to dismantle them during the installation of MDF, proceed as follows: measure the coordinates of the location of the socket on the wall, after which a hole of the appropriate shape and size is cut out with a ring drill or jigsaw. When installing an MDF panel, the size and position of the hole is specified and trimmed with a sharp knife.

All that remains is to install the panel, secure it to the wall, and close the remaining gap with a decorative frame.

Conclusion

The details of the process, how to attach MDF panels to the wall, must be thought out and planned in advance, before work begins. decorative finishing premises. The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in any room there are many problem areas where you almost have to invent the fastening method on your own. In this case, it is better to draw the details and method of fixation on the diagram, so that you do not have to rack your brains and waste time during the work process.

MDF panels for wall decoration are not only easy to install, but also very practical to use. MDF panels for dry wall cladding are still as popular as they were two decades ago. We have prepared instructions for you on proper finishing DIY walls with MDF panels.

Which installation do you prefer?

IN general case It is recommended to fasten the wall sheathing to a system of galvanized or wooden profiles. This allows you to avoid preliminary leveling of the wall surface and makes it possible to lay up to 50-70 mm internal insulation or soundproofing. The choice between a wooden and metal frame is determined by the specifics and conditions of the room, as for finishing gypsum boards. In a modern variation of this installation, profiles and slats can be replaced or supplemented with plastic mounting strips, which provide for quick and easy installation with snap-on brackets.

A special case of a frame system is the construction of a solid base as a rough preparation for walls. The method is relevant in the case of using thin (5-6 mm) panels in rooms with high operational load. If there is a sufficiently rigid substrate (OSB 6 mm, gypsum plasterboard), the panels will not be pressed through, and their warping due to changes in humidity is guaranteed to be excluded - a typical disease of cheap products. The wall receives additional insulation and remains ventilated.

Sheathing without a frame is carried out by gluing panels to the walls after they have been pre-aligned. It could be plaster, cement plaster or a rough base from the method described above. The method is recommended for installing panels with a width of over 160 mm; fastening along the entire plane gives an advantage to the durability of the coating, but eliminates fragmentary repairs and disassembly of the sheathing.

Frame system structure

The principle of constructing a frame for finishing with panels is the same as for gypsum plasterboard, but the profile installation scheme is completely different. Depending on the method of mounting the panels, the configuration may vary.

In the most typical version, the panels are attached directly to the profile; accordingly, the direction of the rack elements will be horizontal, this is the main difference from the gypsum board system. External cladding allows you to give the room the correct geometry, but for this you must follow the correct assembly sequence.

Start with long walls: attach vertical sections of UD 28 mm guide profile in the corners. The two planes of the frame must be strictly parallel, so that the wall sheathed first is taken as the base one. In the future, the distance for installing profiles on the opposite wall will be set aside from it.

Insert sections of 60 mm CD rack profile between the guides. When laying horizontally, you will most likely encounter a lack of length of the molding. In these cases, the crossbars can be spliced ​​by inserting inside two sections of the guide profile and additionally strengthening them with LM screws. Since the linearity of the frame is not critical, it is also not forbidden to fold the profiles with an overlap of 30 cm and fasten their adjacent shelves with self-tapping screws.

The CD profile installation step is 35-40 cm, the outer ones are installed 10 cm from the floor and ceiling. To support the frame, straight hangers are installed in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 60-80 cm in one row, depending on the thickness of the panels, and therefore the total mass of the cladding.

Installation of the frame on short walls is carried out in exactly the same way, except that the guides are attached not to the pillar, but to the frame profiles of long walls. For this reason, the first “pawns” should be installed no further than 10 cm from the corners to thoroughly strengthen them.

If you intend to use mounting strips from PVC or to carry out rough preparation of the walls, the frame is made exactly as for gypsum board sheathing. The distance between CD racks can vary from 60 to 80 cm, direct hangers are installed every 80 cm. Such a frame can be reused during the next renovation by replacing the finishing material with pure gypsum board, while fastening heavy sheet materials horizontal crossbars are not allowed.

The installation of the panels to the frame itself is extremely simple; special plate brackets are used for this. They are inserted into the groove of the hidden fastening and fixed to the frame with a self-tapping screw with a countersunk head. With the use of PVC mounting strips, the situation is even simpler: just snap the clips into the mounting groove and press the panel next. Rigid fastening of panels with self-tapping screws is performed only for the first and outer strips.

Frameless installation - covering walls with panels

There is an alternative installation method that involves the use of “liquid nails” glue. The panels can be glued either to the frame or directly to the walls, if the unevenness on them does not exceed 2 mm/m. Often this is the method chosen for cladding unfinished brick or block masonry; it is only important to choose the correct adhesive composition.

It is recommended to use quality products. The glue must remain flexible after drying; give preference to compounds based on rubber or polyurethane. For occasionally heated dachas, you should choose frost-resistant glue; other features are determined by the surface material for gluing.

Don't forget about proper preparation walls Masonry and plaster must be thoroughly impregnated with primer mixtures to increase adhesion.

Corners and connections - we use a full range of fittings

The main advantage of working with MDF panels is that the fittings for cashing out the corner joints are mounted superficially, that is, after the installation of the sheathing is completed. Use plastic fittings with grooves for PVC panels is highly not recommended. Trimming the panels must be done fairly accurately, the gaps within internal corners should not exceed 1.5-2 mm/linear. m, which is quite enough to compensate for temperature expansion.

The main element of the fittings is universal corner profile. It consists of two thin MDF strips, bonded with laminated film, and can be used to decorate both internal and external corners. To ensure correct and beautiful alignment of the overlays at the corners, their edges are cut in a miter box at 45° with a general bevel outward. When finishing corners on slopes, the angle will not be correct, so local trimming is recommended. Installation is carried out using glue for wooden products based on polyvinyl concentrate.

Another element of the fittings is the joining strip. It is used for splicing sections of cladding when the length of the molding is insufficient or for combining panels different colors in one plane. A mounting strip should be provided at the installation site of the connecting element.

Installation of skirting boards

Skirting boards for MDF panels deserve special mention. For the most part, they are used to cover the corners between the wall and the ceiling, or to decorate the upper end of wall panels. The plinth is installed in the same way as other fillets; the installation is carried out using transparent silicate glue.

The issue of fixing the floor plinth remained unresolved. There will be no special problems if the lower guide of the frame is lowered to 10-15 mm from the floor. If there is a rough base or the walls are covered with panels, fastening can also be carried out using standard means. The practice of chemically attaching skirting boards using liquid nails is common: the front surface of the panels has excellent adhesion.