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How to connect wall panels to each other. Starting profile for PVC panels: beginning of facade work. Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Finishing a bathroom with plastic panels is not the best method of solving the problem, but due to its cheapness and simplicity it is often used.

Today, there are panels for bathrooms that imitate, with various patterns, etc. The cost of these materials is almost the same as tiles, and the savings are achieved due to the low cost of installation.

Plastic panels can be mounted different ways, the specific choice depends on the wishes and capabilities of the customer. In this article we will give step-by-step instructions for all options for finishing walls and ceilings.

Before starting work, you need to purchase materials, and this is where inexperienced builders make mistakes.

We do not touch on design issues; this is the topic of the following articles. Let's talk only about construction aspects.

1. Check mechanical strength. The stronger the panels, the more durable and better quality cladding. Check them before buying, squeeze them with your fingers at the end. You'll be surprised how different the materials are, regardless of price. There are cheap and durable PVC panels, and vice versa, expensive, but similar in strength to cotton wool. The quality of the panels depends on the raw materials used, equipment and production technology. Never buy soft panels; if damaged, it is almost impossible to replace them.
2. Check the patterns to match. They sin very often domestic producers. Complex multi-color patterns on panels require maximum responsibility from manufacturers. Applying patterns is not a simple process; quality control must be carried out at all stages of production. Installation of low-quality panels leads to the fact that individual elements on the lamellas do not match. If this happens to ceramic tiles, then by slightly adjusting the gaps the situation can be corrected; this is impossible to do with panels. We understand that it is difficult to check in a store. Warn the seller that such a check will be done by you at home, be sure to take a receipt. At home, lay out the panels on a flat surface and carefully inspect all the joints, pay attention to how the lines of the pattern or design move from one panel to another.
3. Pay attention to the joints; there should be no gaps. Unfortunately, some manufacturers manage not only to leave gaps, but also to make them uneven in width. The reason is low-quality raw materials, old machines and the human factor. The defect becomes even more noticeable if modern spotlights are installed in the bathroom, cracks cast shadows, and the appearance of the walls and ceilings will upset even very undemanding clients.
4. The thickness of the panels over the entire area must be absolutely the same. Connect the two lamellas and see if the joints lie in the same plane. If there is a slight difference in height, then this is a defect. When the room is illuminated, shadows of varying widths are formed in these places, and the appearance of the wall will be irrevocably damaged.
5. Check the material for ductility. If the panels are made of recycled PVC, it will crack during fixation. This is a significant defect; the strength of the fastening is significantly reduced. Recycled PVC is obtained after processing products from primary PVC. The cost of raw materials is much cheaper, which tempts unscrupulous manufacturers.

   High-quality panels do not crack when bent

Use the information when purchasing materials, do not create additional problems for yourself. Remember that high cost does not always guarantee the same quality.

Equipment and additional elements

We will discuss how to calculate the number of panels and additional elements below, but now we will tell you what is included in the package for finishing walls with PVC panels. Select the appearance and specific dimensions taking into account the parameters of the panels.

Name	Brief description and purpose
	It looks like a plate bent at an angle of 90°. Used for finishing internal and external corners of the room.
	Complex profile, part is installed under the panels, the outer side hides uneven cuts or surfaces.
	Consists of a corner, the inner part is wider than the outer. Hides unevenness of the outer corner.
	Differs from the external one in the width of the sides. The wide one is installed under the slats, the outer narrow one hides the unevenness of the inner corner.
	Allows you to connect lamellas without a lock, used if the length of the lamellas is insufficient for finishing the surface
	Installed first and last, sometimes can be used instead of a universal or special corner.
	Installed at junctions, can be used as a platband.
	The supporting element of the frame can be plastic or made of metal profiles.
	Made of metal, it presses the panel to the mounting plate. Allows you to dismantle panels without losing factory quality.

pvc panels for bathroom

The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer, staples using a stapler, clamps or liquid nails. The choice of method depends on the materials used to manufacture the supporting frame and the quality of the walls and ceilings.

How to process the material

One of the advantages of PVC panels is manufacturability. You can cut the material in one of three simple ways in two directions.

Method 1. With a mounting knife. Use only new inserts, the tip should be as sharp as possible.

Cutting direction	Execution method
Along the panels	Place the panel on a flat place and mark the cut location. When cutting, you need to use a long, level blade. Press it firmly against the surface of the panel and use the end of a knife to cut the lamella on one side along the entire length. Then turn the panel over and bend the cut area. Cut the remaining plane in a bent position.
Across the panels	A more complex case requires certain skills. Mark the location of the cut. Using the tip of a knife, carefully cut the jumpers between the planes one by one. After the entire width has been passed under the ruler, make a continuous cut of one plane. Bend the cut part and cut the second plane from the opposite side.

Method 2. Bulgarian. You need to work with a disk for cutting metals. The disc thickness is minimal. Cutting is very easy and quick; the only requirement is to have minimal experience working with an angle grinder. Be sure to follow all safety rules; injuries from an angle grinder are very dangerous. The burrs on the opposite side of the cut break off easily after cooling.

Method 3. Hacksaw for metal. Undesirable option, work is difficult and long. But in extreme cases you can use it.

With a jigsaw you can make any cut on a plastic panel

The quality of the cut depends on practical skills. But don’t be upset if the cut edge is not very smooth; additional elements allow you to hide problems up to one centimeter in width. The cut can rarely be worse; the panel will be suitable for installation.

How to cut several PVC panels at once

How to calculate the number of panels and additional elements

The bathroom has a small area and many different transitions and corners. It is for this reason that professional builders are not very willing to finish these rooms; it takes a lot of time to take measurements, install sheathing and adjust panels, and the output is small. Builders are paid by the square footage, not by the time, so they choose large premises.

How more angles and transitions, the more unproductive waste there will be. Their number increases if panels with decorative patterns or asymmetrical patterns are selected. Such material does not allow the use of segments in other places. For ordinary panels, the quantity should be increased by 10% of the area of ​​the surfaces to be finished. In bathrooms, the supply should increase to 15%. In addition, if there are complex patterns, the panels will have to be counted individually, taking into account the location of the pattern.

Measure the total length of the internal and external corners, the length of the baseboards on the floor and ceiling. Decide how much starting profile you will need, whether you need a connecting profile, and what elements you will use to finish the corners (simple or complex). If you have the skills to work with PVC panels, you can use simple corners; if not, buy complex ones. They allow you to hide errors during cutting or taking measurements. Take your time, think through everything carefully, and always buy with a reserve. It’s very annoying to go to the store again for a meter or two corner, and time is wasted. Additional elements cost pennies, so don’t skimp on them.

When counting the number of slats or mounting strips, keep in mind that the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm. In addition, they must be mounted at the junction of the floor and the flow as close as possible to all corners, window and door openings. The slats in these places are installed regardless of the location of the last row. Measurements and calculations can take several hours, use them wisely. It will never be possible to accurately count the number of clamps or screws. Buy them in packs; the seller will tell you the approximate number of pieces, taking into account the width of the PVC panels.

General requirements for surfaces

One of the advantages of the technology of wall finishing with plastic lining is low requirements for surfaces. There is no need to specially plaster or level the walls with putty; only large cracks are repaired. The height of the unevenness can be up to 1–1.5 centimeters; anything larger needs to be cut down.

The climatic parameters between the wall and the cladding are the most favorable for the growth of fungi and other microorganisms; it is then impossible to destroy them. You will have to remove the casing, do disinfection and vapor protection. Only after such events can you begin to install plastic panels. No matter how carefully you remove the skin, you cannot do without damaging the materials. If you manage to buy the missing ones with the same characteristics, great. If not, you will have to buy new materials for the entire scope of work.

Installation of panels on walls on wooden lathing

We will give step-by-step instructions for the vertical arrangement of the panels. In the future, we will talk about the technological differences between vertical and horizontal placement.

Step 1. Calculate the surface area of ​​the walls minus windows and doorways.

Make a reserve taking into account the above notes. We will fix the slats with a stapler and staples; this is the fastest and fairly reliable option. Self-tapping screws take a long time, self-tapping clamps take even longer, and liquid glue will not allow you to replace a damaged panel if necessary. The lathing is fixed to the wall with dowels. If you have special plastic mounting strips, then the slats are attached to them only with clamps; they are inserted into special grooves. The advantages of clamps are that the fixation area increases and the lower mounting plate of the panel is not damaged. Due to this, the strength of the fastening increases; it is recommended to use clamps when covering the ceiling with spot lighting. They allow you to withstand the increased weight of the structure.

Step 2. Clean the wall from large uneven areas and seal any cracks.

To check the surface, use a large, flat rod, apply it in different places and check the clearance. At the same time, check the horizontal position; if the deviation is more than a centimeter, you will have to plaster. If the spread is smaller, then the position of the slats is adjusted by various pads.

Step 3. Saturate the surface with an antiseptic, make steam and waterproofing. You can use aluminum foil or plastic wrap. It is possible to impregnate the walls with liquid insulators, just make sure that they are for indoor use. Wood slats also need to be treated with solutions.

Step 4. To speed up the work, mark the position of the slats, using a rope with blue, beat off horizontal lines at the required distance.

Step 5. Fix the first rail at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the ceiling. Check its position carefully with a level. Use wedges if necessary. The rail is secured with dowels. First make a hole on one side and secure the dowel, and then on the other. Next, dowels are installed along the entire length, the distance between them is approximately 20–30 cm. Secure the rail near the floor in the same way.

Step 6 Stretch ropes between them, two at the ends and one in the middle. The ropes serve as beacons; you use them to install all the other slats. Be sure to frame around window and door openings. Check the position of all slats again and make sure that the sheathing around the openings is installed correctly. If the slats are not in the same plane, this will have a negative impact on the panels; the backlight will reveal their incorrect position. To correct the defect, you will have to dismantle the slats and repeat the installation from the beginning.

Step 7 Secure the corner in the corner, start covering from the far corner of the room. Fix the corner with a stapler, staple length 6 mm. During fixation, carefully control its verticality along two edges. Not only the quality of work, but also the speed of installation depends on the correct position of the corner. If the angle is not 90°, then you will have to adjust the size of each panel, which will take a very long time.

Step 8 Measure the width and height of the wall in several places. The parameters must be the same. If the spread is less than a centimeter, then all workpieces can be cut to the same size. Count the number of panels, measure the required length and cut off the excess. This will be a template; use it to make marks on the remaining slats.

Step 9. Insert one edge of the lamella into the corner and secure it to the sheathing on the back side. Don't forget to check the position. The first panel is installed - continue installation in the same way to the opposite corner of the room.

Step 10 The last panel needs to be cut to width depending on the remaining space. Make it about 1 cm narrower, this will make installation easier. First install the last lamella in the corner, and then move it towards the penultimate one until the lock snaps into place.

Use the same algorithm to finish all wall surfaces. A little more work around the openings; in these places you need to measure and cut each element separately.

Installation of a metal frame

The advantage of a metal frame made of profiles is that it allows you to accurately align the position of the slats, regardless of the unevenness of the wall. How is it attached?

Step 1. On the wall, draw lines for the placement of U-shaped hangers. The algorithm of work is the same as for wooden slats.

Step 3. Cut the U-shaped supporting profiles to length and count their number.

Step 4. Start installing the supporting profiles. The vertical position is adjusted using holes in the hangers or by slightly extending the profiles. If they do not allow you to accurately install the sheathing, then straighten the hangers. Such actions do not worsen the load-bearing performance of the elements. The loads from the lamellas act perpendicular to the bending. The elements are fixed together with self-tapping screws.

Important. If significant errors were made during the installation of the sheathing, they can only be corrected after dismantling the PVC panels. It is not only expensive, but also time-consuming. Do not forget to constantly monitor the position of the load-bearing elements. Remember that the most accurate instrument for measuring vertical position is an ordinary plumb line. You can buy it or make it yourself. The level can distort readings by up to 2 mm per meter. And if it fell from a great height, then it is impossible to install a sheathing on it.

What is the difference between vertical and horizontal laying

The only difference is that for horizontal laying of panels, the frame must be vertical and vice versa. For bathrooms, horizontal laying of panels is strictly not recommended. Water easily gets into the locks and then penetrates into the space between the panels and the wall. If there is a lot of it there and it is constantly there, then no amount of steam or moisture protection will help. The appearance of mold and mildew cannot be avoided. To destroy them, you will have to completely dismantle the wall covering, carry out a set of special preventive and construction measures, and re-cover the walls. Such work costs approximately twice as much as proper wall cladding.

Practical advice. Don’t invent a bicycle, don’t create problems for yourself with your own money. In bathrooms, install PVC panels only in a vertical position.

Installation of panels on a rough ceiling

For example, let's take panels that imitate a slatted ceiling. The rough ceiling does not require any preparatory work.

Step 1. Soak the rough ceiling with antiseptic agents, give them time to absorb and dry. It is advisable to make a vapor barrier with aluminum foil or plastic film. Fix the material with a stapler, carefully seal the joints with tape.

Tape the joints

Step 2. Measure the distance between the opposite walls of the room and cut the baseboard, making a 45° connection in the corners.

Practical advice. Do not attach the baseboard to the wall with self-tapping screws. Under the weight of the panels, it will sag a little, and gaps will form between it and the wall finishing. In addition, this method of fixation requires perfectly flat planes. Self-tapping screws press the baseboard against the depressions, it bends, and the appearance deteriorates significantly.

Attach the elements to the wall using liquid glue; remove excess material immediately. Fix only three skirting boards, the fourth is installed after laying the panels. To guarantee, you can additionally fix the back part of the element to the ceiling with a stapler. Wait 2-3 hours for the glue to dry completely.

Step 3. Ceiling panels should be several millimeters thinner than wall panels. Keep in mind that the panel can extend two centimeters into each baseboard. Measure the length of the ceiling from edge to edge of the plinth and add 1.5 cm to this value, the remaining 0.5 cm is left to facilitate installation. It is better to measure and cut each panel separately, this minimizes the likelihood of error.

Step 4. Double-check the dimensions and geometry of the ceiling. If there are minor deviations, they will have to be gradually eliminated by changing the width of the gaps between the lamellas. The magnitude of the changes should not exceed two millimeters, otherwise the adjustment will become noticeable. If allowed architectural features ceiling, then align the panels in invisible places. Open areas will already have smooth joints.

Step 5. Insert the end of the panel into one plinth, bend it slightly and insert the other end into the opposite one. Align the panel and tuck the long edge into the third baseboard.

Practical advice. What to do if the ceiling plane resembles a rhombus? Such cases happen among hack builders, but this can be corrected. Install ceiling panels diagonally. There is nothing complicated, you just need to cut the end of each panel at an angle. We will tell you how this is done below. Negative consequences crooked ceiling - the amount of panel waste increases significantly.

Step 6 Press the panels tightly against each other and secure them with a stapler. The closer the locks come together, the stronger the connection. If the ceiling is not very level, then when attaching the panel at the end, a gap may appear between it and the baseboard. To prevent this from happening, push plastic scraps into these places and only then fix them. Under force, the plastic will compress to the required thickness, and the gap will close. There are difficulties with bending short slats. In such cases, make them another centimeter shorter; the width of the skirting boards allows this. The best option– immediately lay the panels on the wider side of the ceiling. During installation, do not use excessive force, do not damage the baseboard, scratch the walls, or break the panel.

Step 7 Once all the intact panels are installed, measure the width of the remaining uncovered ceiling. To these dimensions, cut the material using one of the possible methods.

Step 8 Using the method described above, insert the panel into two skirting boards, connecting one edge into a lock. The rest will have to be fixed separately. There are two options. The first is to lubricate the reverse side with liquid nails before installation and glue it. The second is to drill a hole in one plane to the diameter of the self-tapping screw and use it to screw the second plane to the ceiling.

Step 9 Cut the base part from the fourth ceiling plinth. Spread the remaining surface with liquid glue and attach it to the wall in the right place.

This completes the installation of the ceiling panels. Of course, during work you need to leave space under electrical wiring, ordinary or spotlights. If after installation there are visible gaps in some places, they can be sealed with sealant of the appropriate color.

Installation of panels to the ceiling on a metal frame

Step 1. Mark a line for installing supporting profiles around the perimeter of the room, making sure that the ceiling is horizontal. At a distance of approximately 50–60 cm, fix the remaining profiles. If the ceiling is very uneven, then use hangers. They are fixed and adjusted in the same way as on the wall. The difference is that the ceiling frame is more difficult to check with a level: it is more difficult to work, your hands are raised up and you get tired quickly.

Frame for PVC panels

Step 2. Glue three skirting boards with liquid nails and file them at 45° at the corners. If the ceiling plane does not have right angles, then each cut will have to be adjusted. Glue the plinth both to the wall and to the metal profile. When gluing, follow the technology. After the plinth is attached, remove it and wait 2-3 minutes, then press the element again. Check its position with a rule or level. The rule is applied to the lower edge of the baseboard. If there are gaps, then use your hand to carefully move the baseboard down until it stops with a straight edge. Give it time to harden. The cracks in the corners are sealed with liquid sealant, but for professionals the fit should be tight right away. The bathroom ceiling is very hot and humid. You can be sure that the sealant will peel off in 4-5 years and will have to be removed and the cracks re-sealed.

Practical advice. Sometimes when the glue hardens, the baseboards in the corners move a little, they end up on various levels. To prevent this from happening, insert trimmings into the corners; they will constantly hold the two elements at the same level.

Step 3. Insert one end of the slats into the baseboard, bend it slightly and push the other end into the opposite baseboard. Align the panel and slide it into the third baseboard. We have already mentioned that you should check the exact dimensions of the ceiling before installation. If one side is longer than the other, then the difference must be gradually leveled by adjusting the gap between the lamellas. The method, of course, is not ideal, but there is no better one. Always install panels along the long side of the ceiling. Due to this, it will be possible to reduce the number of cuts and make it easier to bend the lamellas during installation.

Panel fastening

Constantly check the position of the slats. To prevent a screwdriver that comes off from damaging the end of the panel, place a clean wide metal spatula between them while screwing, it serves reliable protection. It is not necessary to twist the press washers into the tail of the panel, this is difficult and increases the risk of damage, the main thing is that the head presses it against the profile.

Step 5. The last panel needs to be cut to fit the remaining gap. To make installation easier, make a gap of about 1–1.5 cm; it will then hide in the baseboards.

Step 6 Cut off the back plate of the plinth, coat the remaining surfaces with glue and glue it into the wall. Do not forget that gluing must be done in two stages. If the plinth creeps down under its own weight, then hold it for a few minutes or come up with any temporary stop.

At this point the work is completed, installation can begin. lighting fixtures. Before you start finishing, you should know the type of appliances and where they will be installed; cut holes of the appropriate diameters in the panels in advance.

1. Draw a hole on the panel required diameter and at the selected location.
2. Insert the drill bit into the drill and adjust it to high speed.
3. If you have an assistant, great; he will place the panel on its edge and hold it firmly. If you have to work yourself, then hold the panel with one hand and use the drill with the other. This is inconvenient and difficult, the hole will turn out uneven.
4. Drill a hole on the circle line, press the drill against the line and move it around the circle. Friction will melt the plastic, and the drill will “cut” a hole in it.

That's it, remove the burrs and the hole is ready.

What are the features of installing panels on the ceiling under spotlights? No matter how light the lamps are, a large number of them creates additional load on the panels; over time, the ceiling may sag a little. To prevent such consequences, you need to install intermediate jumpers more often; professionals recommend making the distance between them no more than 30 cm. In addition, choose durable lamellas for the ceiling, pay special attention to the characteristics of the locks, they are the ones that hold the weight.

Can dismantled panels be reused? A lot depends on how you shoot them. Cheap materials can cause long longitudinal cracks when the fixation points are torn off. To prevent this phenomenon, use the sharp end of a mounting knife to cut the junction of the lamellas with the frame along the entire perimeter of the hardware. Before re-laying, you will have to move the supporting frame a few centimeters in any direction so that the fixation is done on undamaged areas.

Video - Vertical laying of panels on walls

During renovations, you don’t always want to deal with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration with plastic panels. You can handle it yourself, even without much experience in construction work, and in a day or two you can carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony/loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made from PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is squeezed into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a smooth, but a textured surface. The drawing applied using this technology retains the colors for a long time, but costs similar materials about twice as expensive.

Another technology is to apply the design directly to the plastic, and then cover it with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the drawing are lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those intended for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and those for walls have a thickness of 8 to 10 mm and thicker walls and partitions. You can determine which species is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material is distinguished by the fact that it has a smooth surface and, when joined tightly, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges that are more typical for plastic lining. If you decorate the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

The width of plastic wall panels is most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are the most common. There is quite a wide variation in price - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the design, etc.

Title/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Type of staining	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
Pink violet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub.
Kanamala	250 mm * 2700 mm * 9 mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub.
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950 mm * 480 mm * 3 mm		Russia	128 rub.
Scarlet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 RUR

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we discussed products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for refusing to use them. Therefore, thin plastic wall panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and there are no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950 * 480 mm or so.

Their installation method is different - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But to avoid any difficulties during the installation process, you need to keep track of some points when purchasing:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. You need to take one plank so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, examine it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

The correct technology for installing plastic panels on walls

The good thing about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself and it takes a little time. Well, one more plus - you need the usual tools:

This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on walls. The time required is one to two days, depending on the availability of experience and the area being repaired.

What to make the sheathing from

Installation of PVC panels on walls according to the technology should be done on the lathing. The sheathing is made from:

Of the three listed materials, it is best to use plastic for installing plastic panels in the bathroom. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanization feels good in a humid environment, but it must be good quality Otherwise it will still rust. The most unimportant material is wood, but even with proper treatment they can last for years. And for this to happen, carefully follow the recommendations for applying an antibacterial composition. In some cases, it is enough to brush it a couple of times, in others it is enough to soak it for a while and then dry it.

How to make lathing

Before installing the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and anything that might fall off. If there are large recesses on the surface, it is better to seal them, and strongly protruding parts can be trimmed off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After this, you can begin installing the sheathing.

The sheathing strips are positioned perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you attach the panels vertically, the sheathing – horizontally and vice versa. Install the sheathing strips at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Optimal distance— 30 ​​cm (the “walk” panel will be smaller). The strips are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The sheathing under the plastic panels is most often secured with dowels. 6*40 mm are placed in the concrete wall (so that reverse side a piece of the concrete partition did not fall out), in the brick partition - 6*60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be smooth and beautiful, the lathing must be aligned in the same plane. To do this, install under wooden planks where necessary. wooden spacers(you can use pieces of plywood), but they also need to be treated with a composition against fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in one plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden blocks.

If you decide to make a sheathing from plastic mounting profiles, then it is worth considering one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals/horizontals very carefully. One more point: it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as the plastic guides along the perimeter of the walls, doors and windows: we will attach the starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the plastic wall panels themselves, you will need to buy some more accessories in the store - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At floor and ceiling level, you can use either a starter or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product with a characteristic cut.

Decorating walls with PVC panels begins with installing selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top/bottom. They are attached to the installed sheathing strips. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the sheathing. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert the panels into it.

The problem point is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel to the length or height of the wall. Cutting plastic Wall panels saw with a blade for metal. When working with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean on it - push. To ensure that the strip fits into its designated place without any problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

The protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which the cut side is inserted into the corner profile, tucking the edges into the top and bottom. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, push the bar all the way, check the verticality of the level, applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they fix the sheathing to each plank.

Having installed and secured the first strip, cut off the second, join it to the first, secure it, etc. No difficulties. Problems may only arise with the last panel on the wall. You usually have to cut it to width, and then try to tuck it directly into the groove of the previous plank and into the corner or starting profile. It doesn’t always work out neatly—the plastic often gets jammed. This situation can be avoided by not securing the second corner profile. Then a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, the whole thing is joined together with the previous plank and only then the corner profile is secured. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, while the second remains unfastened. But after you’ve been tired of trying to do it right, you don’t pay attention to it anymore. Then everything is repeated - further finishing of the walls with plastic panels occurs in exactly the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If we are accustomed to the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall, then not everyone likes corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife. If you cut a strip of plastic from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. It won’t be visible from the front side, and you can avoid the hassle of dealing with the last panel. And outwardly, many people like this solution better.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel and secure it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is located. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, and try it on. If everything is fine, we use this piece as a template, moving the exact location of the cut. This is also not a technology, but it seems to me that decorating the walls with plastic panels looks better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls?

Although the method described above for decorating walls with plastic panels is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly smooth after plastering with beacons or. It is clear that lathing is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they violate technology - they glue plastic panels onto silicone or polyurethane foam.

In this case, the starting profiles will still have to be installed, but they will need to be secured to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone is applied to the back side of the panel (in islands in increments of 10-15 cm), the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, and fixed in one or two places with appropriate fasteners. They continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is that it is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on smooth (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the finish without destroying the plastic panels.

There are many materials that can be used to decorate ceilings, but the most practical and easy-to-use option is PVC panels. And they become even more attractive for the reason that it is quite simple to install them yourself, so there is no need to involve a team of builders. Our article will tell you how to attach PVC panels to the ceiling and how to choose them correctly.

PVC panels - what is it?

PVC panels are a finishing material made from polyvinyl chloride, a plastic that does not burn well and is chemically resistant. Now let's consider PVC construction panels.

PVC panels for ceiling

They consist of two thin sheets of plastic connected to each other by many stiffening ribs. Along the length of the PVC panels, on one side there is a large mounting shelf, and on the other, a small mounting shelf. The first is used to attach the PVC sheet to the ceiling frame, and the second is used to connect installed sheets together.

So why have PVC panels become so popular? Below is a list of the advantages of this finishing material.

PVC mirror panels

Selection of PVC panels

So, you know what this material is, now you need to select PVC panels and purchase them. First you need to decide on the sizes. On this moment in hardware stores you can see plastic panels either in the form of lining or in the form of rectangular slabs with the dimensions given in the table below.

Table. Standard sizes PVC panels.

How can you tell if you have good material in front of you? How can you unknowingly avoid purchasing low-quality PVC panels that will crack during installation or lose their color after a couple of years of service?

Possible shapes and textures of PVC panels

When going to a hardware store, you should pay attention to the following points. For small rooms, the most suitable are PVC panels of the “lining” type. They should also be given preference if you want to have a ceiling made of plastic, stylized as wooden boards. A for larger premises it is better to take panels or sheets of polyvinyl chloride. As for the thickness, it is mostly the same for all types of PVC sheets and amounts to 10 millimeters.

1. The stiffening ribs of PVC panels should not be visible from the front side. Also count their number - the more ribs, the stronger and more durable the panel design.
2. The surface of the material must be perfectly smooth, without any defects, chips or damage.
3. The mounting and mounting shelves must be flexible enough and not break when trying to bend them.
4. Try pressing lightly on the PVC panel. If a crack or dent appears on the surface, then you have a low-quality copy, which you should avoid purchasing.
5. Take some panels and try to put them together. Good material joins smoothly and without gaps.
6. Pay attention to the appearance of the PVC panels you are purchasing - copies from all packages must be monochromatic and have the same texture. In some situations, PVC sheets from different batches will have slight color differences.

What to look for when buying PVC panels: 1. The number of stiffeners: the fewer there are, the more unstable the product.
2. The edges of the plastic tiles must be intact and straight.
3. The surface of the PVC panel should be evenly painted, smooth and without unevenness.
4. The two panels must be properly connected at the joint groove.

In addition to the PVC sheets themselves, you will need to purchase an installation profile. It consists of two “shelves”, one of which is attached to the frame, and the other is connected to plastic panels. Both the starting and finishing PVC sheets are attached to the installation profile. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the thickness of the plastic and whether the profile has any bends or defects.

Ceilings finished with polyvinyl chloride panels

Don’t forget to also buy a ceiling plinth - it not only serves as a decorative element of the future ceiling, but also closes the gap between the wall and the ceiling made of PVC panels. Typically, such skirting boards are called fillets, are made of plastic and are attached with glue.

As for the appearance of the purchased PVC panels, you must determine it yourself, based on design project decoration of the room and your own taste. You will be presented with many options for panels of the most different colors and textures. Here we can recommend using a color compatibility table so that the appearance of the ceiling matches well with the color of the walls and furniture.

Table of color compatibility in the interior

Required Tools

Now you need to make a list of tools that will be needed to attach PVC panels to the ceiling. You don't need anything complicated or very expensive; everything listed below can be found at any hardware store.

1. Hammer– necessary for installing the frame.
2. Screwdriver. If you wish, you can attach plastic panels to a profile or beam using a hammer drill, but it is very heavy, and it is very inconvenient to use it for such tasks. Therefore, the presence of a screwdriver will significantly facilitate the work and increase the speed of installation of PVC panels. And if you attach them not with self-tapping screws, but with staples, then instead of a screwdriver, take a construction stapler.
3. To control the accuracy of marking and location of plastic panels you will need square, level and painting thread.
4. Pencil or marker for drawing lines and marking PVC panels in the order they are laid.
5. Roulette for measurements.
6. Electric jigsaw or Circular Saw – for cutting frame profiles and plastic panels.
7. Step ladder. Of course, you can always make do with a table or stool, but this is unsafe and inconvenient.
8. Rubber mallet, which can be useful for adjusting PVC panels to each other during installation.

Tools for installing PVC panels

In addition to tools, you need to purchase material for the frame. It could be either metallic profile(grade UD-27 for the main one and CD-60 for the guide), or a wooden beam. Also, do not forget to purchase fasteners (screws, staples or glue), hammer drills, screwdriver attachments, dowels and profile hangers.

Accessories for mounting PVC panels

Preparation

It is worth noting that even before visiting a hardware store, it is worth starting preparatory work. The first thing you need to do is create a plan. For this measure the length and width of the room and draw a diagram of the future frame.

Approximate diagram of a ceiling made of PVC panels

Then calculate how many sheets and what sizes you will need to make a suspended ceiling.

Important At the planning stage, it will not be superfluous to mark the lines along which you will cut the profile of the frame and PVC panels. At the same time, you can make notes on them using a pencil and marker, indicating in what order they should be laid.

Remember that good and careful planning is the key quality work and reliable insurance against various troubles and the need to do everything over again.

Second preparation point - removal of old finishing materials. If the ceiling was previously covered with a thick layer of plaster or paint, then all this must be removed, otherwise heavy pieces of old finishing can damage the frame or the panels themselves.

The last stage of preparatory work is marking the line of the future frame. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the height of all corners of the room. Find the one in which it is the smallest. You should measure 50 millimeters down from it and draw a strictly horizontal line (control it using paint thread and a level). The same line at exactly the same height should be drawn on the opposite wall. The suspended ceiling frame will be installed on them in the future.

Ceiling markings

Frame installation

Along the lines drawn, holes are marked every 50-100 millimeters, drilled with a hammer drill. After this, dowels are inserted into them. Using holes drilled in the wall using self-tapping screws (for example, a 6x40 mm self-tapping screw), the main frame, made from the UD-27 profile, is attached with a lid to the wall. In this case, do not forget to use a level and ensure that the frame elements are positioned strictly horizontally.

Wooden lathing for mounting PVC panels

Then, using hangers and the CD-60 profile, guide rails are created to which the PVC panels will be attached. The optimal distance between them is 500 millimeters. The metal profile CD-60 is installed with the cover facing the floor; the ends of the slats should be inserted into the profile of the main frame.

Advice! It is very difficult to correctly mount the frame and install PVC panels alone, so this work should be done together with a partner. It would also be useful to have the help of a person who will give and receive tools, cut and bring plastic panels.

Having finished installing the frame, check it several times for horizontalness and the absence of a difference in height - the future ceiling made of PVC panels should be perfectly flat, and this largely depends on how well the sheathing is installed.

An alternative to a metal profile can be a frame made of wooden beam. This design will cost less, but is susceptible to moisture. The technology for its installation is in many ways similar to that for a metal profile.

1. We draw two strictly horizontal lines on opposite walls.
2. We drill holes along them at intervals of 5-15 centimeters.
3. Insert dowels into the holes.
4. We fasten the beam of the main frame to the wall using self-tapping screws and the above-mentioned holes.
5. We mount guides made of wooden beams using hangers.
6. We attach the guides to the main frame using corners.
7. We check the entire structure using a level and tape measure.

It is worth noting that for a wooden frame, the most optimal fastener for plastic panels would not be self-tapping screws, which are screwed in with a screwdriver, but staples, which require a construction stapler. Also, metal fasteners can be replaced with “liquid nails” - construction adhesive that can firmly hold the plastic panel and frame together even under relatively heavy loads.

Methods of fastening PVC panels

Important! If there is an additional load, such as a large chandelier or a second level of suspended ceilings, the frame must be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to install more guide rails, reducing the gap between them. This is mandatory not only for a wooden frame, but also for a metal profile structure.

Fastening PVC panels to the ceiling

To begin, mount the installation profile by attaching its large “shelf” to the guide rails using self-tapping screws. It can be installed both around the entire perimeter of the room and in the places where the starting and finishing PVC panels are attached.

Fastening PVC panels to the ceiling

Now you need to cut the PVC panels according to the previously developed plan and markings. Many experts advise making the length of the sheet slightly shorter than the width of the room, since polyvinyl chloride can expand even at low temperatures, which means that installation “back to back” can lead to future deformations of the suspended ceiling.

Advice! Also, you should not install PVC panels in a room with low temperatures, especially since under such conditions this material becomes brittle.

If you are planning to make built-in lighting for a suspended ceiling, it’s time to make cutouts for lamps in PVC sheets.

Installation of spotlights in a ceiling made of PVC panels

Once the material is completely prepared, you can begin attaching the first (or starting) panel. To do this, you and an assistant need to insert the launch panel into the installation profile from the side of the mounting shelf, and then secure it with self-tapping screws on the rails. At the same time, make sure that they do not go too deep into the PVC, otherwise there will be a risk that the screws will damage the sheet.

Next, carefully “join” the next panel using the mounting shelf with the starting one, and secure it with the fasteners. Thus, the PVC panels are fastened to each other one by one. They should be connected to each other with great care to prevent damage. Also, no gaps or cracks should be left; PVC panels must fit tightly to each other. If necessary, you can make an “adjustment” using gentle blows with a rubber mallet.

Installation of panels with self-tapping screws

Before installing the last PVC panel, measure the remaining uncovered ceiling space with a tape measure.– often the plastic panel does not fit there completely, so it needs to be cut. At the same time, make sure that the cut is as smooth as possible, and there should be no gaps between the finishing PVC panel and the installation profile.

Scheme for gluing ceiling plinths

The final stage - glue installation of ceiling plinths. After this, the suspended ceiling made of PVC panels can be considered complete. Then you can install lamps, decorate walls and remove construction waste.

Video - Making a ceiling from PVC panels

As you can see, attaching PVC panels to the ceiling is a fairly simple task that does not require much knowledge and experience in construction from you. Because for self-finishing rooms and, in particular, ceiling plastic panels are the best possible option.

potolok-exp.ru

How to dock and how to fasten plastic panels? How to insert the last plastic panel and how to disassemble the panels?

Plastic panels are the most common material when necessary minimum costs get a decent effect not only by creating an exclusive finishing design, but also by obtaining a practical coating that is easy to care for.

How to attach plastic panels?

Fastening of plastic panels must be carried out on a specially mounted sheathing, for which can be used:

• Wooden beam– in rooms with normal humidity levels;
• Metallic profile– in rooms with normal humidity and outdoors;
• Plastic profile– for bathrooms, baths, saunas and other rooms with high humidity levels;

The frame is made over the entire area of ​​the wall or ceiling to be paved; its ribs should be located at the same pitch, which is determined by the thickness and length of the plastic panel; after installation, in the intercostal space it should not bend when pressed, or "play".

After installing the sheathing panels are being installed with the installation of a starting U-shaped profile, and the finishing point can be the same if the installation is carried out exclusively for the wall, or an F-shaped profile used to secure the end of the panel at the outer corner.

Sharp end panel installed first in the profile, and then its blunt locking side is fixed relative to the sheathing.

Fastening in progress using self-tapping screws, if a wooden beam is used, then a stapler and staples are used, you can also use special fasteners.

All these connections will be covered by the next panel, so only the smooth and aesthetic surface.

How to insert the last plastic panel?

Covering a wall with plastic panels seems difficult only at first glance, but you just have to try and make sure that the task is not only simple, but also interesting.

Essentially, editing is set of already cut according to the size of the panels into a frame from a profile of the required shape and fastening them relative to the edges of the frame fixed to the wall.

The frame itself can be made from wooden beams or metal profiles, a special plastic profile is used for bathrooms and bathrooms, which will avoid the destruction of the sheathing.

The whole process comes down to installing each subsequent panel into the groove of the previous one and securing them with fasteners, however, when finishing the cladding, many who decided to do this for the first time experience difficulties installing the last panel.

It very rarely happens that the last panel corresponds in size to the remaining surface area, so it needs to be trimmed, with its sharp edge it is first inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel, and with the cut side into the finishing profile.

At the same time, her additional fastening not required.

How to disassemble plastic panels?

One of the advantages of cladding with plastic panels is the ability to always, if necessary, disassemble the structure. This can happen if, for example, the owners decided to update the furnishings, or if the water pipes hidden behind the panel, which happens quite often, began to leak.

In any case, the dismantled materials don't throw it away, even if you don’t plan to install them back, since the practical and stain-resistant surface can be useful everywhere.

If the cladding is restored, the external fastening profiles must remain intact, therefore disassembly starts from the last panel, which is not fixed relative to the sheathing.

All other segments following it removed in reverse order of installation, accordingly freeing itself from its fasteners.

Difficulties can only arise if the panels attached to the sheathing with glue, but this can also be solved; in this case, a mounting knife will help; you need to extend the blade to its maximum length and carefully, so as not to break it, trim the joints.

Also see:

If the panels were attached using a stapler, then you will have to remove the staples with a screwdriver, however, this is still faster than unscrewing the screws.

Also watch the video tutorial with practical tips on how to join plastic panels

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how to mount, choice of lamps, step-by-step installation instructions, photo video

Home » Ceiling » Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: step-by-step instructions

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made of a single color. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight tint, such as “baked milk”, ecru, ivory, etc.

A small part of the range of plastic panels

Depending on the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny inserts. But since the ceiling is made of plastic panels almost always in technical rooms- in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - the small size, as a rule, forces you to choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to the reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when matte ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even package goods in it; many of our products in the kitchen and bathroom are also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What’s nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and the conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are truly hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitation station allows them to be used in medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really do burn. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of +360°C. For comparison: chipboard and fibreboard, OSB begin to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke they emit, plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to install a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with toilet. To prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, install a couple of ventilation grilles in the ceiling. opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still not airtight and with sufficient air exchange no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They are distinguished by their rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is not important on the ceiling, so the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can crush them even with two fingers. Is it possible to install wall panels on the ceiling? It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame (if there is one) will be slightly increased and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles clapboard: the same stripes, only made of plastic. A ceiling made from such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

Rack and pinion plastic ceilings

An almost flat, crack-free surface with hardly visible joints is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a tongue and groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the skin is assembled.

Ceiling made of seamless plastic panels

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with and is rarely used: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are finished, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

There are PVC sheet ceiling panels

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of care: almost any dirt is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When purchasing PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which you decorate the ends and joints. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a suspended ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Types of profiles for installing plastic panels

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without having to drill walls. On the other hand, it “eats” some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is the case if the lamps are installed with ordinary ones, and not built-in ones. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main ceiling by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then there should be enough illumination.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

Assembling the frame

When installing a suspended ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used for working with drywall. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom or kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden blocks of 30*30 mm or larger cross-section.

First nail the planks or profiles around the perimeter, placing them all level. Then, intermediate guides are attached to standard hangers (there are two types) or wooden blocks in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as the previously installed ones (it’s easier to do if you stretch the threads between the already installed ones and align them).

Ready-made frame for a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mm, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the frame looks something like this.

In order not to lower the ceiling, the gap can be kept minimal

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels. It starts with setting up a starting profile. In the case of a ceiling, ceiling molding is also used.

First, one of these profiles is attached

It is attached close to a profile or strip fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are filed at an angle of exactly 45°. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn’t matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a slight spacer of 1 mm.

The cut strip can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue ceiling molding (with liquid nails). This way the joint turns out perfect: when gluing you press the bar tightly, when screwing it onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it is twisted forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, apply a thin strip of glue in a zigzag. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can use 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and torn off. There should be glue left on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the plank is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even block and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has completely set, the bar is adjusted.

Installation of starting profile for plastic panels

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved from place. After 8-12 hours the glue will harden and installation can continue.

If during gluing “Liquid Nails” are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it out. Wait until completely dry, then pry sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already installed skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. There is no need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not appear in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces at a time, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding on three sides. It is placed with the spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the finishing profile is made of soft plastic, the upper part (mounting shelf) bends, which creates difficulties during installation. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be secured with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the plank, otherwise you will have to correct it with a spatula, putting the panel in place. It should fit into the plinth or starting profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is secured to each guide with a self-tapping screw. To attach to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

Installing the first strip of plastic panels on the ceiling

The installation of subsequent stripes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the baseboard by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled by lifting the middle with your hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping the edge with your palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make sure it fits tightly. From below you will see that there is no gap at the joint, which means the strip is normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports installed panel so that it does not fall out while you are securing it with screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by gluing small pieces of double-sided tape to the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. This is how you assemble all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for installing lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring attachment, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you know the tool well and can do it round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with a regular drill with a thin drill bit... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more good tips there.

Having installed the strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, problems may arise later: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. What if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. That’s why we install and check its functionality right away.

Installing the last panel

The most difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated about this. But then there are two options:

• Simply insert the trimmed strip into a pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. If the panel width is sufficient, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip. Otherwise you won't insert it. And so you have to carefully adjust it with something thin (a steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After several attempts, it still works out... But besides the installation difficulties, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the previously measured distance on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form onto “liquid nails”. Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. Both the one along the wall and the one perpendicular to the installation (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in reserve - just in case.

The installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. It is first trimmed mounting plate: leave only the baseboard. Afterwards, you also cut it at the corners at 45°, try it on, and cut it exactly. After trying it on again “dry” and making sure that the size is correct, apply glue to the plinth, only on both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will stick to the wall.

Installation of the last plank

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is finished. But sometimes another operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not necessary if you bought high-quality panels that have ideal geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly there is no need for correction: there are no saggings that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction of the plastic baseboard with the ceiling. Often there are so many cracks that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the cracks in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all excess and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, and this is a matter of seconds. That's why they smeared the piece and corrected it. If everything is fine, continue to apply. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having covered the piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty is cut off evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rubbed with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you won’t be able to wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

Fresh acrylic wipes off well

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the cracks that appear, rub it in, remove the excess and wash off the smeared stuff. This second time is usually the finishing time. After this layer dries, streaks remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth until shiny. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the lamps, the repair can be considered complete.

How to attach to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already level and does not need level correction, plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The procedure is the same: first the starting profile, then strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least every 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. You can hit wood with nails or staples from a stapler. It’s more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws won’t work, and you’ll have a hard time drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum distance from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Frame with minimal indentation

Another option is to glue it on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-removable and will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Ceiling lamps made of plastic panels

We are not talking about design or quantity - here everyone decides for themselves, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install ordinary lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate circuit breaker with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of 220 V lamps

If you install 220 V lamps, and install even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the housing. As the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. The heated body causes the plastic to darken and warp over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

One of the options for a 220 V ceiling lamp

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. In the bathroom, it is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp body is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. Second point: most of them are quite bulky, since the body is usually ceramic. Simply hanging it on plastic will not work: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in the places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. The lamps also work normally at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

Four halogen light bulbs on a plastic ceiling are powered by one transformer

If you decide to place the transformer outside the bathroom to improve safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is quite large. Then it will have to be moved to the bathroom and hidden behind a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes each lamp has its own transformer. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

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Today there are many known methods for finishing ceilings in residential and public buildings. This includes classic whitewashing, wallpapering a given surface, and tension and hanging structures, including multi-level ones. Suspended ceilings can be slatted (metal and PVC), plasterboard, plastic panels, tiles (Armstrong type), or cassette.

Each of the listed types of ceiling structures undoubtedly has its own advantages. If you want to choose the most budget-friendly option, but at the same time practical and with certain aesthetic advantages, you can choose a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels. Such designs are especially popular in bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, loggias, and garages. How to make ceilings from plastic panels, and we'll talk in the article.

Features of PVC panels

Decorative PVC panels are a hollow structure, arranged like a honeycomb, with a large number of stiffeners and, accordingly, air cells inside. The plates are equipped with locks along the edges, which are a ridge on one side and a groove on the other. Thanks to this device, you can easily and efficiently connect them together.

The main advantage of this material is moisture resistance. In addition, plastic panels are hygienic because they do not contain pores on the surface, and therefore mold or mildew cannot grow on them. Housewives really appreciate how easy and simple it is to care for this material: just wipe them occasionally with a cloth moistened with soapy water. That is why making the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels is a very attractive option.

Manufacturers guarantee the service life of plastic panels for at least 10 years. In fact, if everything is done correctly, the ceilings will last much longer without loss of quality. Plastic is frost-resistant, can withstand significant temperature changes, is not subject to rotting, and is not afraid of pests.

Advantages of PVC ceiling

If the time has come to renovate your apartment, but you want to get by with little money and effort, and not create a lot of dirt, you should think about how to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels, because the installation process is quite simple and does not require any special tricks. During operation, if such a need arises, it will be possible to easily replace one or more panels with new ones.

Another advantage is a wide selection of panel colors. They can be matte or glossy, with a pattern or plain, imitate natural materials: metal, stone, wood and even mirror. There are plastic panels for both ceiling and wall finishing. There is no need to confuse them: the latter are more rigid and weighty, so it is not recommended to pile them on the ceiling.

Plastic panels are a finishing material that has a very affordable cost. Plus, you can save on a team of repairmen: the material is light both in processing and in weight, and the idea of ​​​​how to make a ceiling yourself from plastic panels is very realistic in execution. If you make the structure hinged, then the resulting gap can be used to hide communications, arrange additional noise and heat insulation, and spotlights. In addition, in apartment buildings there are such significant defects in the ceilings - cracks, crevices, level differences - that rather than try to level out this disgrace, it is better to seriously think about how to make ceilings from plastic panels.

Environmental safety of the material

Plastic, of course, is not a natural material, but it is considered absolutely safe for humans. Indeed, PVC has found very wide application in everyday life, industry, medicine. However, making the ceiling in a room with plastic panels is not the best idea, especially if it is a bedroom. The advantages of this material will be more appropriate in other rooms. For example, you can make the ceiling in the toilet with plastic panels. If you choose glossy light models for this, this can visually expand the dimensions of the bathroom.

Disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Before you seriously think about how to make ceilings from plastic panels in an apartment, you need to have an idea not only of the advantages, but also of certain disadvantages of this material.

Plastic does not support combustion and goes out, but it smokes and releases toxic substances. It is not without reason that in public and administrative buildings and premises it is prohibited to use it to decorate escape routes in case of fire. Plastic panels are a fairly fragile material and are easily damaged by impact loads. In principle, such an impact does not threaten the ceiling, but this should be kept in mind during transportation and installation.

Another disadvantage of finishing ceilings with decorative plastic panels is that you cannot build an original structure from this material, and it looks quite rustic. However, if you carefully think through the design and combine it during the renovation process various materials, you definitely won’t be ashamed of the result.

The joints between the panels will always be visible, even with the most careful installation. But sometimes this is even welcome: for example, if a material that imitates wood is used. Economical models of plastic panels tend to fade over time, so it is better to choose a higher quality material.

How to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels: preparatory work

In fact, no special preparatory work is required. It is enough to brush away dust and cobwebs from the ceiling and clean the places where the plaster is peeling off. The deepest cracks can be filled with putty. But there is no need to be particularly zealous: the new ceiling will cover all the defects.

What is really important is to make sure that there is no mold and mildew, and to prime the surface with special antiseptic compounds that prevent their occurrence. For convenience, it is worth emptying the room as much as possible of furniture, removing curtain rods and curtains, and removing carpets. However, there won't be much dust.

Purchase of ceiling panels

Before you find out all the nuances of how to properly make a ceiling from plastic panels and put this knowledge into practice, you need to make a calculation of the amount of materials for the future ceiling. Knowing the area of ​​the room and one plastic panel (this value is indicated on the packaging), it is not difficult to calculate the number of plates by dividing the first number by the second and rounding the resulting value up. It is unwise to purchase materials without a reserve: after all, the panels will have to be cut, or there will be defects, or something may not work out the first time - so it is better to provide for such moments. As a rule, standard plastic panels are 24 cm wide and 3 m long, but other options are possible.

When choosing PVC ceiling panels, you need to pay attention to their quality. The edges must be smooth, without chips or burrs, and the pattern must be applied evenly. High quality panel can withstand repeated bending in the same place without cracking. The stiffening ribs should not be visible on the front side of the panel. It is definitely worth checking how easily the two plastic strips fit together and whether there is a gap between them.

Frame materials

In addition to the PVC panels themselves, metal profiles or wooden beams will be needed to arrange the ceiling. From these materials it will be necessary to construct a sheathing to which the ceiling panels will be attached. Profiles or beams are attached both along the perimeter of the room and parallel to one of the walls in increments of 50-60 cm. If you decide to place the panels perpendicular to the window opening so that the joints are not visible, then, therefore, the ceiling strips must be attached along the wall with the window .

The number of guide profiles is easy to calculate: this value will be equal to the perimeter of the room. It's more difficult with ceiling slats. You will have to draw a diagram of the room to scale, on which to draw the required number of parallel lines indicating the frame for the ceiling tiles, and make careful calculations.

You will also need a decorative PVC baguette (collapsible or monolithic): with its help you can close the joints of surfaces. In addition, the ends of the ceiling panels are tucked into the groove of this plinth.

Fasteners and tools

To fasten the frame and plastic ceiling tiles, you will need dowels and screws, the number of which is calculated taking into account the fact that for every half meter of profile or panel one is needed fastener. Ceiling strips are attached using straight hangers located on average 70 cm from each other, and for this you will also need dowels.

Now about the tool. You must have: drill, hammer drill, screwdriver, hacksaw, building level, tape measure, ruler, pencil and, of course, stepladder.

Installation of supporting frame

It should be noted that the entire installation process can be divided into two stages: constructing the frame and actually assembling the ceiling. First you need to decide on the size of the gap between the base and suspended ceilings. It depends on what exactly you plan to put in this gap. Perhaps these will be spotlights, and then you will need at least 10 cm. To lay the wiring, 3-5 cm will be enough.

Having determined the lowest corner of the ceiling using a level, a report should be made from this point, eventually drawing a line along the perimeter of the room. This marking will be a guide for attaching the guide profile, which must be drilled very tightly to the wall, without cracks or voids. Bearing in mind that the ceiling frame strips (they use a less rigid profile than the one fixed around the perimeter) will be located perpendicular to the plastic panels, they are installed in increments of 50-60 cm, inserting the ends into the guide profile and fixing them on hangers every 70 see. You can navigate during installation using a fishing line stretched across the room.

In principle, you can build a load-bearing frame from a wooden beam, which is attached directly to the base ceiling, but only if we are not talking about rooms with high humidity. In any case, the wooden elements of the frame should be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Considering that the ceilings in modern apartments are most often uneven, it will not be so easy to align each wooden slat strictly horizontally.

At the stage of mounting the frame, you should think about the electrics and do not forget to install the wiring in the right places. The frame must be strengthened at the location of the lighting fixtures. Next, along the perimeter of the room, a decorative PVC baguette for ceiling panels is attached to the guide profiles: entirely, if the model is monolithic, or its removable strip if the baseboard is dismountable. In this case, its decorative part is installed after the ceiling is assembled.

Installation of PVC panels

When the frame is ready, they begin assembling the ceiling from the wall. First remove the protective film from the ceiling panels. The first plate is inserted into the grooves of the baseboards - both longitudinal and transverse, after which it is secured to the frame using self-tapping screws. The next one is installed in the same way, except that instead of longitudinal groove The baseboard is fastened to the adjacent panel. Each subsequent panel is easily snapped into the groove of the previous one, after which it is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. Plastic panels are pre-cut so that their length is 5 mm less than the corresponding size of the room. Holes for lamps in the plates must be made in advance. If the fastening is done on a wooden sheathing, you can use staples instead of screws, but this is not a very reliable option.

When installing the panels, you should be careful and do not bend them in an arc too much to prevent bending. The last panel will most likely have to be pre-cut to the desired width. There is no need to fasten it with self-tapping screws - it will be enough to fix it into the grooves of the previous panel and PVC skirting board. With sufficient skill, this work can be done quickly.

There is another way to make ceilings from plastic panels - frameless. In this case, the panels sit on liquid nails directly to the ceiling. But this option requires a perfectly flat base surface, and therefore it is not always acceptable.

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DIY installation video instructions, photos

Starting a renovation always involves a thorough plan and preparation for this important task. You don’t want to go to all the trouble and then have to deal with the consequences of prolonged repairs for more than one year?

A long journey is not our method, so we need to make repairs quickly and efficiently.

Ceiling made of PVC panels

Often, the surfaces of walls and ceilings in rooms with high humidity are exposed to the harmful effects of aggressive environments, temperature fluctuations, and vapor permeability contributes to the development of mold, mildew and other unpleasant consequences.

According to the repair rules, we need to start repairs from the top down, that is, from the ceiling, and eliminate any deficiencies. Which coating should I choose for the operational purpose of a room with high humidity? PVC ceiling! From the article you will learn how to quickly make ceilings from PVC panels and get acquainted with the detailed technology.

Materials and tools

We stock up on the necessary tools

Let's first decide on a set of tools and materials for finishing work.

Before installing PVC panels on the ceiling with your own hands, you will definitely need:

• PVC panels;
• Moldings, depending on the installation of a specific type of panel;
• Square for precise marking;
• Mounting level;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Cord for marking straight lines;
• Screwdriver and drill;
• Dowels;
• Claymers and hammer drill;
• Sharp knife, hacksaw and scissors for small jobs;
• Ladder.

It is advisable to immediately buy material for ceilings with a reserve, so that you don’t have to run to the store again. However, this also applies to the rest of the tools on the list.

Select panels according to the layout of the room. If it is small, narrow panels (25 - 50 cm) will suit you; for large ones, panels up to 3 m will be suitable.

PVC panels - a universal finishing material

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that installing ceiling panels is not too easy to do alone, so you should get an assistant - this will make things go much faster!

How to choose PVC panels?

Not everyone knows that the strength and durability of plastic panels can be determined by yourself. How?

It's not difficult to do this:

1. First of all, before purchasing, inspect the surface of the PVC panel and pay attention to its geometry.
   The uniformity of the pattern, the correctness of the shapes and the ideal external surface are the key to quality and support of the shape;
2. Secondly, study the stiffeners. They are located in the inner cavity of the plastic panel. The ribs should not stick out outside or be visible from the front;
3. Determine the density of PVC panel. To do this, squeeze the panel tightly and examine the results of the experiment. If the panel is made with high quality and all technologies are followed correctly, it will not crack or deform;
4. Check the flexibility of the form. Each panel has a joining corner - try bending it. Perform the manipulation several times, the plastic should remain intact. This is a true indicator of the durability of the PVC panel.

PVC panel

We also recommend that you count the number of ribs inside different types of panels that have the same width before installing the ceiling. This insignificant point may later turn out to be a problem. The more stiffening ribs, the more reliable the ceiling structure will be.

Pay attention to the thickness of the stiffening ribs and the thickness of the walls - thick and strong ones hold their shape well and, accordingly, your choice should fall on such a PVC panel.

Finally, you can try to join the two panels and check them for gaps in the joints. Panels made with high quality are light in weight and do not leave traces of assembly. Also, the panel should not crack or break.

If you see chips on the plastic, the manufacturer has “overdone” the chalk content, which weakens its performance properties, and PVC installation installation of ceiling panels may result in the breakdown of one or more pieces.

Fastening plastic panels

To begin with, you should know that the assembly of a ceiling made of PVC panels involves a structure that includes the main elements: a frame (sheathing) and finishing profiles. In our case, these are PVC panels.

Preparatory stage

Have you already made a frame for PVC panels? If not, then it is made of wooden or metal slats. The frame is attached at a distance of approximately 50 cm from each other, which allows you to compensate for the unevenness of the ceiling in the kitchen.

Metal frame

To ensure that the frame is evenly fixed on the ceiling and hides irregularities and flaws, we will make the markings correctly:

• Let's determine the smallest height;
• From the lowest point, draw two lines along the walls using a cord rubbed with chalk;
• Let's check the horizontality with a level and adjust.

After you have finished working with the markings, you can proceed to the installation of the frame structure itself. Pay attention to the formation of right angles.

The frame must be mounted strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels.

For this:

Can be used to attach the bracket

By marking the profile fastening lines around the perimeter, we will achieve an ideal plane;

1. We fix the profile tightly on the wall, eliminating the formation of voids and gaps;
2. We fix the transverse profiles;
3. We mount the base for fastening the PVC panels to them.
4. We attach a mounting plastic profile to the profiles and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Pay attention to the location of wiring, communications, lamps and other electrical equipment before installing the panels.

Installation process

For those who have already rolled up their sleeves and intend to install PVC panels on the ceiling, the video will be the best assistant:

Ceiling finishing with PVC panels:

Joining panels

We cut plastic panels to the length of the ceiling. It’s good if you have provided the exact length of the panels in advance.
For this we use a hacksaw or a regular hacksaw. It is advisable to cut the panel 1 cm less than the distance at which the profiles are located.

It is very important to secure the panels end-to-end without gaps

Installation of the PVC panel is carried out by placing it in the profile and fastening it with self-tapping screws.
Let's start from the edge. It is very important to start correctly and secure the first panel to the sheathing.
Make sure that they are perpendicular to the walls, because if you start fastening them crookedly, the next panels will not snap into each other’s grooves.

1. The following panels are inserted into each other and secured to the mounting profile. The joint should be as tight as possible and not show any gaps.
2. We insert the edges of the PVC panels into the slats, and adjust the last panel to the distance to the wall and carefully insert it. Each panel should fit tightly together and not form any gaps.

Quite often, instead of a metal profile, they buy wooden slats and planks, and replace screws with staples. The answer here is simple - these materials are much cheaper, and the installation of wooden slats on the ceiling is easy to install.

However, do not think that “cheap” is a synonym for “reliable”. Finishing ceilings with PVC panels in rooms with large accumulations of moisture subsequently develops problems. A wooden floor that is constantly exposed to moisture will eventually begin to collapse and spoil the plastic panels, deforming their structure.

In addition

Even before installing the ceilings, it is advisable to decide in advance where the various interior elements and lighting will be located. You can reinforce the sheathing with additional slats and place them more often.

Final moment

Firstly, this will make it easier to fasten the parts in the room, and secondly, preferably immediately after the installation of the ceiling panel is completed:

• Drill holes for lamps and fixtures,
• Bring the wires out.

You can reliably hide communications and wiring in the inter-ceiling space, as well as experiment with the colors of plastic panels or install a PVC ceiling plinth; for that finishing touch:

• We cut the plinth at an angle of 45 0 with a special miter box or a hacksaw;
• We glue the baseboard carefully, trying to avoid getting glue on the walls and wallpaper, since removing it from there later will be problematic;
• We will use acrylic sealant to seal the gaps between the baseboard and the ceiling, joints, etc.

We have described the main points of how the ceiling is finished with PVC panels. For greater clarity, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with another small but very informative video. We hope he will become your assistant.

Video tutorial on installing a ceiling from PVC panels:

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DIY ceiling made of plastic panels

Hello, friends! It’s been a while since I published materials about ceilings, it’s a mess, I need to catch up. We already know everything about plasterboard, so now I propose to figure out how ceilings are made from plastic panels. After all, this is a very popular solution for kitchens, bathrooms, loggias and balconies.

In this lesson we will learn why plastic ceilings are so popular, what their main advantages and disadvantages are, and here I will also tell you how they are installed in general. But let's start, as always, from afar...

Probably not everyone knows what kind of plastic panels they are? Will explain. They are long (usually 270 – 300 cm), flat plastic “sheets”, on average 25 – 30 cm wide. Their short ends are simply cut off, and the long ends have locks, similar topics what we see in laminate flooring.

They are mounted on a wooden (collective farm style detected) or metal (another matter) frame, the same as for gypsum boards.

Here's what a regular piece of such a PVC panel looks like:

As you can see, the panels are hollow inside, but with numerous stiffening ribs. Therefore, they have very little weight and good strength. To cover the ceiling or walls with them, we will also need special profiles, also PVC. Let's look at them.

Types of PVC profiles

So, let's get acquainted with the most common types of plastic profiles:

What are they used for:

1. Starter, most common. It serves to cover the ends of the panels, for example, it is attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the room.
2. The F-profile is intended, again, to cover the ends of external corners when moving to other planes. That is, for example, one wall is sheathed, but the one around the corner is not.
3. H-profile is also called connecting profile. As you might guess, it is used to increase the length of the panels.
4. External plastic corner(the internal one looks about the same). Covers the ends at external (and, accordingly, internal) corners.
5. Plastic ceiling plinth. In essence, this is the same starting profile, but slightly refined.
6. Universal plastic corner. It sticks to any corners, but it looks unpromising.

And now, as I promised, let’s look at the advantages of using plastic for the ceiling.

Advantages

PVC ceilings have the most advantages suspended ceilings. Namely:

• Possibility of leveling surfaces of any curvature without the need to dismantle the old coating
• The ability to easily hide various communications under plastic
• Ease of installation of various lamps
• Lightweight construction (much lighter than plasterboard)
• Possibility of using noise and heat insulation
• Complete absence of “wet” processes (not only during installation)

In addition, panel ceilings significantly outperform, for example, plasterboard ceilings in terms of final price and ease of installation - assembled everything, no puttying, sanding, painting, etc. required. And finally, their first main advantage (in relation to HA and plaster) is maximum moisture resistance.

By definition, such a ceiling cannot become moldy; it will not change its properties over the years. Did the upstairs neighbors flood? Again, no problem, the plastic doesn't care. The second mega-advantage is the possibility of dismantling and re-installing such a ceiling. No comments here.

However, the hero of our lesson also has disadvantages (oh, damn, why can’t we do without them?). Firstly, there is a limitation of forms: for example, multi-level ceilings cannot be assembled from plastic. Secondly, most of the ceilings made of plastic panels look completely cheap. In addition, the joint between the panels is always visible.

Of course, the more expensive they are, the better they look, but still... Therefore, their scope of application is, as a rule, limited to bathrooms and loggias, and sometimes kitchens. There is one more subtlety. There are frankly terrible ceilings that are visible through spotlights, this is really an ambush. Don’t take something that’s obviously cheap, you may regret it bitterly later.

We will consider the most technically difficult installation case - a ceiling made of PVC panels in a bathroom where tiles have already been laid on the walls. Yes, by the way, we will need the same tool as in the lesson “Do it yourself plasterboard ceiling” with a few exceptions.

Preparation and installation of the frame

We have a regular bathroom, the tiles are already laid and before draft ceiling(on purpose) does not reach 10-20 cm.

Here we have two options: either we will install the frame above the tiles, or directly on it.

Both methods have disadvantages. If we attach the guide profile to the wall directly above the tile, then we will have problems with attaching the starting profile to it, because the thickness of the guide (already not wide) will decrease by the thickness of the tile with glue, and this is at least a centimeter. The second method is potentially dangerous due to damage to the finished cladding, so it is immediately eliminated.

I suggest the following. Take, for example, Rotband and apply a narrow strip, 5 centimeters wide, over the tile, resting on the finished surface of the tile. Thus, the plane of fastening of the profile will coincide with the plane of the cladding. Just don’t “pull” with the rule - leave metallized traces that are difficult to wipe off. It's better to use a plastic iron. And don’t forget to glue the top row of tiles with masking tape so as not to leave any seams.

The guides can be attached as soon as the plaster has set, that is, within a few hours. To fasten them we use dowel nails. Yes, by the way, for the bathroom, take high-quality galvanized profiles, and not any domestic bullshit! Humidity, after all.

Next comes the turn of suspensions. In my example, the length of standard straight lines is enough, but if in your case the ceiling needs to be lowered, then use hangers with clips:

I install them in increments of no more than 60 cm, and I make the pitch of the profiles for the ceiling equal to 50 cm, so nothing will sag: neither profiles nor panels.

By the way, we don’t need transverse ones. Do not forget to take into account the location of future lamps when marking profiles. The finished frame should look something like this:

Next, we attach the starting profile to the guide profile using self-tapping screws with a press washer. Between them we choose a distance of no more than 50 cm. Of course, we sew the starting profile with the wide side up. This must be done very carefully so as not to scratch or pierce its front side. You can immediately cut it off on a miter box at 45 degrees (in the corners), but it would be safer to thread them into each other at the corner, secure it, and then cut diagonally with a sharp knife.

Panel installation

We begin installation, of course, across the profiles. We cut the first panel, making it slightly shorter than the width of the room, by 3-5 mm. We cut with a small hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder, and clean the edges with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh. We try not to wrinkle the panels.

And most importantly, do not forget to remove the film from them before installation, if any!

This is a very common problem! Then there may be no time for laughter.

First, we insert one of the narrow ends into the starting profile, slightly bend the panel and insert the second one. Then we push it into the profile with a wide end. If necessary, use a narrow spatula, but carefully. That's it, all that remains is to attach it to the profiles with self-tapping screws and a press washer. This must be done extremely carefully. If the bit comes off the screw, it can pierce the panel and you will have to throw it away. You can first drill a hole in the profiles, and then calmly drive a self-tapping screw into it, it will be safer.

We insert the second profile in the same way. We connect the locks, sew:

Don’t worry, the heads of the screws will not stick out, everything is provided for in the design of the panels. Let's move on, don't rush anywhere:

All, all whole panels are fixed:

Remains finishing touch– install the last panel. But how to do that? I’ll show you a non-standard move, know-how, so to speak. Of course, you need to cut it lengthwise first, it’s stupid to argue with that. Now we cut it to length, and take a distance that is literally a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the beginning of the starting profile on the opposite one. We insert the panel until it stops with one side into the profiles, right into the corner. In this case, the second end will dangle freely, and it can also be inserted without problems by slightly extending it from the first corner.

Thus, we still have a small gap between the last and penultimate panels, and we will need to somehow dock them. Sometimes this can be done manually, but most often not. Then it comes to the rescue masking tape. We glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it towards the previous one. It is done.

Holes for lamps can be cut either directly on site or “on the ground”. For this, crowns of the appropriate diameter, drills, and even a knife are suitable - the ceiling material is cut very easily. And here's what the end result looks like:

That, in principle, is all that concerns the installation of ceilings made of plastic panels. Our lesson is over here. If you liked it, I suggest you subscribe to updates using this link. Good luck and see you on the site!

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How to properly cover a ceiling with PVC panels

Home / Types of ceilings / From plastic panels / We cover the ceiling with PVC panels - how to do everything right?

Sheathing the ceiling with PVC planks is not too difficult. However, everything needs to be done as it should be and you also need to know how to properly attach PVC panels to the ceiling. There are some nuances here, knowledge of which will help you achieve the best result and, as a result, a well-designed ceiling.

What you need to know

PVC panels are plastic strips with a length from two and a half to six meters and a width from ten to eighty centimeters. Sometimes you can find wider details, but they are not too common.

The thickness can vary from five to ten millimeters. How thick the plank is depends on its strength and type. By type, they are divided into ceiling and wall. However, the difference in type is only formal - ceiling varieties lighter and thinner, and the wall parts will be thicker and heavier.

Fastening of PVC panels to the ceiling or wall is carried out on a pre-prepared frame made of aluminum profiles or wooden blocks. Sometimes, in narrow and long rooms, fragments of the coating are placed crosswise and no parts of the base are used, except for a plastic plinth with special grooves for attaching the ends. This approach is wrong - after a while, even the strongest planks will begin to sag, since they are not secured in the center by anything.

Be sure to take into account that wooden frame bases cannot be used when assembling such ceilings in bathrooms or other places where humidity is high. Also, wooden bases should be avoided when installing such coverings outdoors. Temperature changes also have a bad effect on wooden parts.

A construction stapler is often used as one of the tools that allows you to quickly and easily attach PVC panels to the ceiling. It significantly speeds up the installation process and makes work easier. However, it can only be used as the main fastening tool with light types of coatings. It is not recommended to fasten heavy planks with staples, as the connection will not be reliable enough.

The most important installation nuances will be shown in the video, which shows how to make a ceiling from PVC panels and is presented a little below.

Frame

The best material for assembling the base of a suspended structure will always be a metal profile. It is very easy to process, easily cut into pieces of the required length and does not cause complications during installation. However, there is a subtlety here too. If installation is carried out in the bathroom, kitchen or open areas, you must use only galvanized profile.

Steel blanks are not suitable, as they will begin to rust over time. If the frame parts are made of aluminum, then the problem disappears - this material is not subject to corrosion and can be used in any conditions.

Fixing panels

To hem the ceiling with PVC panels the way it should be done, you only need to use self-tapping screws to fix them. No staples, staplers or anything else. For any type of planks - be it heavy or light. A self-tapping screw with a press washer will ensure maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Installation process

If you take into account all the above nuances, the installation of the structure will take place without problems. In order to better understand the main stages of all operations, you can watch the video below, which shows in sufficient detail how to cover a ceiling with PVC panels, as well as how such installation is carried out on the walls.

If there are still some unclear points, you can simply follow all the points of the specially compiled instructions.

This requires precision when setting all marks at the same level. How accurately everything is done will determine how the coating will look after assembly.

The first mark is applied in the lowest corner of the room. The distance from the ceiling to the point is determined based on the size of the ceiling part of the lamps and the presence of utilities under the ceiling that need to be hidden.

The applied first point is duplicated in all other corners. The easiest way to do this is to use a water level. When all the corners are marked, the points are connected with horizontal lines. Here a marking cord and an assistant who will hold the opposite edge of the cord will come in handy.

• Perimeter installation

Next comes the installation of the frame parts, which are attached to the walls along the perimeter of the room. It is imperative to control the horizontalness of all installed parts of the base. For installation of PVC panels the best option fastening the end part there will be a special plastic profile, which is attached from below to the installed metal parts of the base.

• Installation of cross parts

The transverse elements of the frame are attached at their ends to parts mounted around the perimeter. If necessary, they are additionally fixed with ceiling hangers. During installation, you should again check the horizontal level of installation of all parts.

The final stage of work is the installation of parts decorative covering, consisting of individual plastic strips. Everything is simple here - the first fragment is installed so that the groove remains on the free side of the part. Each subsequent part of the coating is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This continues until one piece remains. It should be cut to the size of the remaining free space and inserted into place, along with one of the plastic baseboards.

How to attach the last and generally all PVC panels to the ceiling could be seen in the video inserted above. One of the options for installing the last part of the coating is also discussed there.

• Final operations

Depending on the chosen method of installing the decorative plinth, you can fix it in different ways. The most common option is in which all the strips are mounted into already installed plastic corners.

However, sometimes the baguette is attached after the entire canvas has been assembled. In this case, the final stage will be the installation of the baguette and the installation of lighting fixtures. If everything is done as described in these instructions, all that remains is to insert all the lamps into their places and tidy up.

The popularity of PVC panels in construction is due to very good reasons. Attractive are their decorative capabilities, which consist in a variety of shades, patterns and textures, low cost, simple installation, which the owner of a house or apartment can do with his own hands. Installation of PVC wall panels will allow you to forget about the need for a long time cosmetic repairs- compliance with the operating rules will allow them to maintain an attractive appearance for a long period.

Where are PVC panels used?

Considering the modern approach to finishing materials, it is somewhat difficult to imagine that plastic wall panels will be used to decorate a bedroom or living room, but in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom or veranda they sometimes turn out to be simply irreplaceable. They are also often used for finishing public and office premises.

The variety of external styles of their PVC panels allows them to be used in the design of rooms in any style, and their moisture-resistant properties make them an ideal, hygienist-approved finish for bathrooms and toilet rooms. An equally valuable property of the panels is their ability to withstand the loads created when an apartment is flooded by residents living on higher floors. Even in the event of a serious accident, the panels do not have to be replaced with new ones - they can be easily cleaned of dirt and will acquire their original appearance after drying.

When using wall panels for the kitchen, where grease and soot may settle, it will be enough to periodically wipe the PVC material with warm water and ordinary detergents.

Mold, fungi and bacteria cannot reproduce on the surface of the material.

Dimensions of PVC wall panels

Firstly, all produced panels can be divided by thickness into 5 mm and 8-10 mm. Sheets with a width of 100 mm usually have a length of 3 m, if the width of the sheet is from 200 to 370 mm, then its length can be 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 3.0 m.

According to the design, a 100 mm wide lining may differ in the width of the lock - for a “European” it is narrower, for a “Polish” it is wider. The 12.5 cm wide lining has a double profile and is quite rare on sale.

Panel material differs from lining in the absence of connecting seams; the width of the panel can vary between 15 - 50 cm.

Preparing for work

As already mentioned, particularly careful preparation of the walls before installation work is not required. But you should measure the surfaces that will be sheathed with maximum accuracy and correctly calculate the amount of material for their sheathing.

In addition, you will need to decide how the installation will be carried out - if the walls and ceiling in the room turn out to be perfectly smooth, then they can simply be covered with panels. But if the task is to give the room ideal parameters, then you should take care of installing the frame; the main advantage of this option is the ability to give the room an aesthetic appearance by hiding all utility lines under the surface of the panel cladding.

When performing work you will need to use the following tools:

• comfortable step ladder,
• drill or hammer drill,
• hacksaw for metal,
• tape measure and level,
• painting knife,
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws.

It is recommended to stock them in advance, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble them accurately and efficiently. Having collected everything you need, you can start marking. For the ceiling, PVC panels with a width of 100 mm are usually used, the so-called. clapboard Marking lines for installing the profile should be done every 0.4 m. First, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined, and marks are made from it corresponding to the width of the panel. Then, using a level around the perimeter of the room, marks are made at the points where anchors or dowels will be attached, with the help of which the frame will be attached to the walls or ceiling.

The profiles of the supporting frame must be attached perpendicular to the PVC plates attached to them. To simplify the marking process, experts recommend using a thin cord in addition to placing marks and levels. Rub it with colored chalk, press the ends against the marked wall - a colored mark will remain along its entire length.

How to assemble the frame correctly

The quality of the finish will depend on the correct assembly of the frame, which is a connection of profiles. Different materials can be used as a profile:

• wood,
• plastic sheathing,
• metal.

Naturally, each of them has its own advantages, which determine the rationality of using the material in certain conditions. A wood frame, for example, is recommended for use in rooms with normal air humidity; if this option is acceptable in a kitchen, then using it in a bathroom or on a balcony is unlikely to be advisable. In any case, using natural and environmentally friendly wood material, you will need to treat it with high-quality impregnation that protects against moisture penetration and fungal development.

When installing a wooden frame, the beams are fastened every 0.6 m, using dowels or impact screws. If you need to give the boards required level- use a lining. Wooden frame its characteristics are somewhat inferior to plastic or metal structures.

The use of U-shaped plastic profiles allows you to take advantage of the following advantages:

• low cost,
• light weight,
• simplicity of fastening work,
• ability to withstand moisture, steam, and temperature changes.

The profile is installed every 0.3 m, according to pre-drawn lines. The fastening dowels or self-tapping screws used during installation are installed every 1 m. The profile is joined at an angle; it is necessary to control that the joints are smooth, with well-fitting surfaces of the profiles.

As an advantage, we can note the possibility of using profile grooves for laying electrical cables.

PVC wall panels are lightweight and do not require a particularly powerful frame. If you nevertheless decide to install a metal sheathing, then the cable will have to be laid in special corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes - this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the power cable braid by the sharp edges of the frame profile.

Basic rules for installing plastic profiles and panels

When installing a PVC profile, you should adhere to the following rules:

• Installation should begin after the material will pass adaptation to room temperature, especially if it was stored in a room with a temperature below +10 C,
• The lamellas should be positioned perpendicular to the direction of the frame slats,
• if there is high humidity in the room, then ventilation cuts are made in the frame,
• we should not forget about the need for 5 mm compensation gaps, taking into account the possibility of changing material parameters with increasing temperature,
• installation of panels without a pattern is carried out arbitrarily; if there is a pattern on the surface, work starts from the left corner and moves to the right,
• It is not possible to plan the installation of PVC structures and use them as finishing in rooms with temperatures above +40 C, such as bathhouses or steam rooms.

The procedure for performing installation work

ceiling

You can begin directly installing the panels after completing the construction of the frame. Installation begins from the outermost strip, it is attached in the very corner, to the transverse profile using self-tapping screws. Each subsequent panel will be inserted into the groove of the previous one. The procedure will be repeated until the finish reaches the opposite wall. If necessary, the last panel is cut to width. But you can do it another way: unfold the panel so that the fastening lock is on the other side, then trim the groove from the side.

Since the material is fragile, the use of sharp external influences on it can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which cannot be eliminated.

When applying panels during installation, do not apply special force to them. If necessary, a stationery knife can be used as a handy tool; the edges of plastic panels can be directed using its narrow blade.

After completing the installation of the last panel, you can begin installing the baseboard. To fasten it, liquid nails are used; they are applied to inner part. Then the plinth is pressed tightly against the finished ceiling surface and held for 10 seconds. The remaining glue is carefully removed.

Since liquid nails harden very quickly, you should hurry up when removing the sagging.

wall decoration

Using PVC wall panels for a bathroom or toilet, the owners of a house or apartment have the opportunity to quickly equip a practical and sufficient cozy interior in sanitary facilities. The process of finishing the walls has almost the same technology that is used when installing the ceiling.

A frame made of plastic or metal profile is mounted on a wall treated with an antifungal primer. The installation of the first panel is carried out by inserting it together with the corner into the profile, the subsequent ones are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones and fixed on metal guides using clamps. The last panel on the wall is installed in a U-shaped corner and together with it is attached to the frame. Next, work is carried out on installing the corners.

Some difficulties may arise when performing installation work on walls, where the installation of switches and sockets will be required. Before installation finishing slabs in this case, you should install the box and lay the electrical cable. When installing the panels, you will need to cut holes of the appropriate size in the marked areas for installing sockets.

1. When purchasing PVC boards, you should make sure that there are no curved transverse stripes on them, the coloring of the material should be uniform, and there should not be any physical defects on the surface. It is good if the surface of the panels is protected with a special film.
2. The purchased panels must have the same shade or monochromatic pattern, and there should be no areas with a blurry pattern or poor-quality painting.
3. You should make sure that there is a sufficient number of stiffeners inside the panel - a large number of them can ensure the strength of the material and resistance to pressure loads.
4. When trying to connect the panels, no gaps should form; the surface at the junction should look like a monolith.
5. You should not purchase materials that give different openings when joined - at one end of the seam it can be 1 mm, at the other - up to 4 mm.
6. Refrain from purchasing panels that have waves on the surface and visible stiffeners - this is evidence of poor quality.
7. It is not recommended to purchase additional material from another batch even if the article number is the same.

Covering walls with MDF panels is an affordable and simple way to decorate residential premises.

The finishing material has a decent attractive appearance, has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and installing MDF panels with your own hands is not very difficult.

Interior decoration of walls with MDF panels is carried out in two main methods: on the lathing and directly on the wall surface. Preference for one or another finishing option is based on the condition of the walls in the room and its operating conditions.

Frame method

The essence of the method is to attach finishing MDF boards to a pre-constructed sheathing. It is used in several cases:

• the wall surface is uneven and there is no way to eliminate the defect;
• the room needs heat or sound insulation;
• there is a need to hide engineering communications - wiring, for example, located on the walls.

Finishing materials

Using the frame method, it is possible to install MDF panels on a wall of any form factor - slats, wall panels and decorative sheets. The appearance of the slab, the thickness of the panel, and the quality are determined not by the installation method, but by the functionality of the room.

1. Form factor.

The most commonly used material is rack material, since, thanks to the tongue-and-groove joint, its installation is simple and does not take much time.

Cladding with tiles and sheet panels more difficult, since it is associated with the need to comply with a certain pattern.

1. Thickness.

The slabs are produced with a thickness of 6 mm for slats, and from 3 mm for sheet products. For finishing the walls of rooms with severe operating conditions, it is recommended to choose MDF panels of maximum thickness.

1. Moisture resistance.

Moisture-resistant MDF panels are used for finishing bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Tools and Supplies

• MDF boards - slatted, panel, sheet.
• Universal corner made of fiberboard - used when decorating corners.
• – if thermal insulation work is being carried out.
• Hammer, jigsaw, knife.
• Square and usually nylon thread.
• "Liquid nails" or other wood glue.
• Wood screws - from 40 to 80 mm, plastic dowels or plugs - for attaching the sheathing.
• Nails, clamps with a tongue of the required height, glue - depending on the chosen method of installing the panel.

Preparatory stage

1. Since during the installation of MDF panels on a metal frame or wooden sheathing there is no preparation, its preparation comes down to cleaning it from dust and dirt. However, if there are large cracks on the wall, they should be repaired.
2. The wiring is retracted into corrugated pipes.
3. If there is a general high level of humidity in the apartment, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic primer.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of MDF products is low, but moisture resistance is low, so the material should be kept indoors for 2-3 days in order to equalize the humidity of the board and the air.

With a small sheet thickness - 3-6 mm, this stage can be neglected; with a large sheet - 16-20 mm, exposure is necessary.

Manufacturing and installation of sheathing

The frame is made from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 20×40 mm, or a galvanized profile. Both solutions have their advantages

Wooden sheathing is much easier to install, does not require a large amount of hardware, and is characterized by the ability to absorb and release moisture at a level close to MDF boards.

In this case, the material requires additional processing antiseptic agents and does not exclude the possibility of destruction under the influence of moisture.

The metal frame is highly durable and resistant to moisture.

Installation of MDF panels on a metal profile provides rigid fastening, which prevents the panels from elongating. In rooms with noticeable changes in temperature and humidity, for example on a loggia, this leads to warping of the finish.

Since, with the exception of special moisture-resistant ones, they are also not resistant to moisture, you should not build a frame more durable than the sheathing itself.

Installation of lathing for MDF panels: detailed instructions

Slat slats can be positioned horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Square panels can be formed into a pattern. In any case, the installation directions of the sheathing strip and the MDF panel must be perpendicular to each other.

The diagonal method of laying panels is more material-intensive.

Vertical installation of finishing is most often used, as it ensures a minimum of waste.

1. The most convex place on the wall surface is determined - its height is the control point.

The frame rail must pass through the top of the convexity.

1. The recommended pitch is 40–60 cm. If the sheet size is large, the pitch can be increased.

The possibility of increasing is checked as follows: if the panel bends slightly when pressed by hand between the slats, then the change is permissible.

1. The wall is marked with a pencil.

In this case, it is advisable to place the bottom strip as close to the floor as possible: the baseboard is attached to it.

1. The first to install the rail is the most convex place.

The block is placed on the marked line, and a hole is drilled in the wall through the plank using a hammer drill. The depth of the hole is calculated so that the self-tapping screw is at least 30–40 mm deep into the main wall. The fastening pitch is at least 60 cm.

1. First of all, the rail is fixed at the top of the convexity - close to the wall, and then at the opposite end, previously leveled.
2. To check the plane of the block, a thread is pulled from one end to the other end of the wall and fixed on self-tapping screws at a level; a match is placed between the head and the thread.

Correction of the rack fastening is carried out using wedges, the thickness of which is determined by the deviation of the fastening depth compared to the control point.

1. Blanks for wedges are cut from a lath and trimmed with a knife as work progresses.

It is allowed to use pieces of plywood.

1. The second rail, usually lower, is installed in the same way: the ends are fixed level, and the rest of the fastening is adjusted along the thread.
2. The following frame elements are mounted as follows: the rule is applied to the fixed slats, and the next bar is aligned in the plane with the first two.

It is prohibited to attach any objects to the MDF panel. However, it is quite possible to hang a mirror in the hallway if the installation wall MDF panels are carried out on the frame.

Wall cladding with MDF panels

Sheathing begins after constructing the frame.

Mounting methods:

• Glue.

The adhesive composition is applied to the panel in the areas of fixation to the sheathing. Suitable for thin slabs;

• Mechanical fastening with staples, nails or screws.

Provides reliable fixation, but does not compensate for thermal expansion. The method is recommended for rooms with stable temperature and humidity;

• Fastening with clamps.

The clip is placed on the edge of the panel and secured to the sheathing with nails. This is the most recommended option.

Installation sequence

1. Slat slats and universal corners are cut to length using a jigsaw or hacksaw. The edges are sanded.
2. Installation can be started from any corner of the room.

1. The first lamella is fixed in such a way that the edge with the ridge is directed towards the corner, and the gap between the wall and the sheathing board is 2-3 mm.

On the ridge side, the lamella is fixed with self-tapping screws to the slats, and on the groove side, a clamp is put on the edge and secured. When joining, the fastener is hidden by the ridge of the next element.

The next panels are inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and secured with clamps.

1. The last panel usually needs adjustment.

The slab is tried on, the required width is determined, and the excess fragment is cut off. Then the element is inserted and also secured in the corner with self-tapping screws.

1. The corners and top edge are finished with a universal corner.

Design of sockets and switches

When decorating walls with MDF panels in such areas, you must:

• try on the panel and mark the location of the outlet;
• cut a hole of the appropriate diameter;
• fasten two parallel bars to the wall so that the future socket can be installed on them;
• fix the MDF board to the sheathing.

Frameless method: do-it-yourself cladding

The method is implemented when the walls of the room have a flat surface, or if one of the tasks of the repair is their careful alignment. Any MDF products can be used, but more often using this method

Preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of MDF panels with glue, the surface is cleaned and primed. Most often, a primer with an antiseptic effect is used.

The slatted lamellas are cut to the required height, the corner is also cut off, and the edges are processed with sandpaper. Square panels are adjusted after fitting.

Adhesives used

The adhesive composition must satisfy two requirements:

• After drying, maintain some plasticity to absorb the thermal expansion of the material.
• Have a dense structure, which would allow the glue to be applied in both a thin and thick layer. This property makes it possible to properly attach the panel even in cases where the wall surface is curved.

Most often, “Liquid nails” and “Moment installation” are used, but there may be other options - “MitreFix”, “Moment Crystal”.

Installation of cladding: sequence of actions

1. It is recommended to start covering from the corner towards the window opening.
2. Horizontal and vertical markings are made on the wall according to the size of the panels.
3. Glue is applied to the back of the slab in zigzag strips.
4. The panel is easily pressed against the wall and can be removed immediately.

After 2–5 minutes it is fixed tightly. This way a stronger connection is achieved. The first lamella must be checked with a vertical level.

1. The slabs are laid end-to-end or overlapping.
2. In areas where it is planned to install sockets and switches, holes are pre-made in the panel.
3. The corners and upper edge are sealed with a universal corner, the lower edge with a plinth.

Finishing nuances: processing joints and corners

A universal corner is used for finishing corners. It consists of two plates made of chipboard and connected on the front side with a film.

The strips can bend both inward and outward, which allows the element to be used to decorate any corners.

1. The corner is cut to the required length. Docking, if the top edge is being decorated, is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. It is recommended to apply glue to the glue in two stages: light pressing so that the composition is distributed both over the cladding and on the surface of the corner, and then firmly with pressure.
3. Remains of glue, if they do appear, are cut off with a painting knife after complete hardening. They are difficult to remove with cleaning agent or solvent.

Joints are finished in exactly the same way, if such a need arises. However, in this case it is necessary to carefully select the element by color.

Finishing MDF with boards is not a job of a high level of complexity and requires not so much experience as careful execution.

From an aesthetic point of view, it is not recommended to decorate both the ceiling and the walls of the room with slabs at the same time. Styles that involve such a solution are not implemented in city apartments. But for a balcony or loggia this is a completely acceptable option.