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How the eurolining is attached. Subtleties of fastening eurolining. How to attach plastic lining

Thanks to its high technical specifications and affordability, such material as eurolining is very popular today. The range of eurolining is very wide, since wood is used for its manufacture different breeds. With the help of this cladding element, any room can be given an aesthetic and decorative appearance without much difficulty. This material is used for cladding walls, loggias and balconies, saunas and baths (read also: " "). Of course, you can also install a ceiling made of eurolining. The choice of wood type for eurolining, as well as its shade and texture are selected in accordance with the desired installation result. As you know, high quality material is always treated with special antiseptics that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the wood. harmful insects. More than this, use this facing material available to a very wide range of consumers, since its cost is quite reasonable, and there is no need to perform expensive work on processing ceilings and walls.

One way or another, the method of installing eurolining has its own characteristics, so it is important to understand how it should be installed correctly.

Conditions for installing eurolining

In order for the final result of the work on cladding with eurolining to be positive, you should correctly approach the choice of the material itself. Eurolining must be stored in packaging, and the humidity level must also be controlled. It would be useful to protect new material from direct hits on it sun rays and, if possible, avoid sudden temperature changes.

Before you start thinking about how to attach eurolining to the ceiling and other surfaces, the new material must be left for two days directly in the room where the work will be carried out. installation work. It is very important to think through the entire fastening system, since often these elements directly affect the service life of the eurolining.

The minimum temperature when installing eurolining should be +5 degrees, and the minimum humidity level should be 60%. The boards of material should be laid so that there is a gap of 1 - 3 millimeters between them. This should not be forgotten when installing eurolining on the ceiling and other important parts of the structure, since due to some features of wood as a material, it can change its size throughout its entire service life under the influence of temperature or humidity.

Sheathing device

In some situations, in particular when the wall covering is smooth, eurolining can be attached directly to it. But in most cases, the installation of sheathing is a mandatory and undeniable process. Stuff wooden blocks Lathing on the wall is necessary from both the top and bottom edges, observing a step of 0.5 - 0.8 millimeters. If the surface of the wall is uneven, then special wedges must be placed under the sheathing beams so that the processed surface of the sheathing is solid and uniform.

You can attach the sheathing slats to the wall both horizontally and vertically. It is also allowed diagonal laying and herringbone styling. However, it is important that the sheathing elements are perpendicular to the direction in which the eurolining lies. So, when fixing the cladding horizontally, the battens should be positioned vertically, and vertical installation eurolining requires horizontal laying of the sheathing. Thanks to this installation method, the sheathing and lining will have a tight adhesion, and the structure itself will have sufficient rigidity. The sheathing elements are fastened using dowels, self-tapping screws, plasterboard hangers, etc.

Often experts, answering the question of whether it is possible to visually increase the space narrow room, it is recommended to lay the lining horizontally. Accordingly, an excessively wide room can be visually reduced by vertically laying eurolining. It is more difficult to carry out diagonal cladding, and it also requires a lot of material, since with this installation method it is necessary to use the cladding with some reserve.

When equipping the frame of such a structure as a ceiling made of eurolining with your own hands, it is recommended to use wide boards rather than individual bars, since such a system will be more durable and reliable and will certainly have a positive effect on further exploitation the entire structure.

Also, do not forget that even before you start installing the planks, they need to be prepared. To do this, the room is measured in advance and after that a certain number of boards with the required dimensions are selected.

How to calculate eurolining?

In order to calculate the required volume of material, you should take into account the parameters of the surface being processed, as well as the width of the board used. You also need to remember that when attaching boards to the sheathing or wall, each of the longitudinal tenons is inserted into the groove of the nearest board. With this installation option, the working width of the material will decrease by approximately 10 - 12 millimeters.

How to properly cover a ceiling with clapboard, video instructions:

Equipping walls with insulation

After installing the sheathing, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation between its elements. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that when clapboarding a room from the inside, you need to take care forced ventilation, otherwise, due to the temperature difference, condensation will appear on the walls, which directly affects the formation of mold. It is necessary to lay on a layer of insulation waterproofing film, which will protect the entire structure from moisture. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of the eurolining.

Installation of eurolining

Even before the actual installation of the panels, the material should be prepared. A mandatory measurement of the room is carried out, based on which it is determined how much material will be used.

The most common are 5 methods of fastening eurolining. These include the following:

If you want to learn more about how the ceiling should be finished with eurolining, photos and videos of the entire work process can easily be found on the Internet on specialized construction sites and forums.

Eurolining is a modern, attractive material that is used for covering the most various rooms. It has numerous advantages, including not only beautiful appearance, but also environmentally friendly, excellent heat and sound insulation. This lining consists of planks made of natural wood, which are laid on the surface in the most different ways. Let's consider how the eurolining can be fastened.

Eurolining is a modern, attractive material that is used for covering a wide variety of rooms.

To make surface cladding using wooden lining, you must follow these rules:

• Before covering, it is recommended to lay a sheathing of wooden slats on the surface of the walls or ceiling in increments of up to half a meter;
• after this, you need to cut the strips to the required length in order to save time during installation and not be distracted by such work;
• installation is carried out according to the chosen method;
• do not forget to use special external and internal corners, floor plinth, they will help hide the joints and give the surface a more decorative and attractive appearance.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Wood screws are most often used as fasteners for eurolining. As a rule, this method is used when plating is necessary horizontal surfaces, when all the boards must be laid very securely.

In this case, you can start covering not only from the floor, but also from the ceiling; there is no fundamental difference. Before laying the lining, you need to drill holes in the boards for self-tapping screws so that the relatively thin board does not crack when covering it. Such holes should be made near the edge where the tenon is located; the diameter should be equal to the size of the screws used for fastening. The depth of the holes is up to ten millimeters.

The installation itself is carried out in this way: the board is applied to the surface, after which the evenness of its laying is checked. Next, the panel is attached with self-tapping screws to the surface of the base, after which the remaining fasteners are inserted, all of them are carefully tightened. This method is quick and easy to assemble, but for residential premises it is recommended to use hidden cladding methods.

Hidden mounting options

Eurolining has numerous advantages, including not only a beautiful appearance, but also environmental friendliness, excellent heat and sound insulation.

When installing any finishing material I want to get not only a beautiful surface, but also to hide traces of fasteners as much as possible. In the case of wooden lining, there are many ways to make your dreams come true. Concealed fastening, which allows you to hide the fixing elements as much as possible, can be done using nails, dowels and special clamps.

Secret fastening of eurolining is most often carried out using special brackets, since it is this that ensures the most high quality the resulting cladding. To perform installation, it is necessary, in addition to the calculated quantity sheathing material, use an industrial heavy-duty stapler.

Laying the lining should begin only from the ceiling, and not from the floor.

The first board is mounted in this way: having attached it to the wall, you need to drive in the staples at an angle of approximately 45 degrees relative to the plane of the wall. When fastening, all brackets must go completely into the wood so as not to interfere with the installation of the bottom board. In this way, all other elements of the lining are attached.

One of the most simple methods eurolining fasteners, providing hidden fastening, is the use of galvanized thin nails. The method is similar to using staples, only in this case you need to use a special hammer to ensure that the caps are completely embedded in the wood. The nails are driven into the tenon, which is then completely covered by the lock portion of the next board. It is necessary to carefully ensure that all the caps are recessed into the material, otherwise the top board will not be able to lie down normally, and the coating will be uneven and unattractive.

If the eurolining is fastened with the help of hidden clamps - clasps, then such fasteners are not noticeable from outside, it does not interfere with the expansion or shrinkage of the tree, and helps to avoid splitting of the panels.

If the lining is attached to the wall using dowels, then you need to start from the bottom. First wood sheet in its lower part it is screwed with self-tapping screws, which are then covered with dowels. After this, you need to drive staples or screw screws into the lock tenon, which is located on top of the board, but in such a way that their heads are completely closed when laying the next board. By covering the tenon of one board with the bottom of another, we create a strong overlap and hide all traces of fastening. The result is a wooden wall surface that is not damaged by any metal fasteners.

The last top board is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws covered with dowels. After this, the wall cladding is completely finished, the protruding parts can be cut off and carefully sanded.

We use clamps

What is a clamp? This is a metal plate made from thin galvanized steel sheet. Completed fastener in the form of a bracket of a special design. This method allows you to make a hidden fastening, that is, no traces of fixation will be visible on the wall surface. Fastening eurolining in this way begins with the clamps being screwed to the wall surface using self-tapping screws.

The staples should fit onto the back surface of the board tenon. The first board is fastened with self-tapping screws, which are then covered with dowels, then you need to move down towards the floor, strengthening the individual elements of the lining with staples. This option is not only simple, it provides a beautiful, durable surface.

Eurolining is a very attractive finishing material with which you can completely transform any room, giving it comfort and warmth. It is executed from natural wood, is distinguished not only by durability, but also by excellent sound, thermal insulation properties. It is easy to attach such material to the wall surface; there is no need for experience or expensive tools. You can choose any method of laying lining that is suitable for you, which not only makes the work easier, but also makes it very fast, providing a beautiful wooden surface walls

It is difficult to find a more common finishing material than lining, which people love largely because of its versatility and low price. Meanwhile, it has another noticeable advantage that cannot be ignored - it is easy to attach. Almost every person, armed necessary tools and materials, he can independently attach it to the wall. However, in order to be absolutely sure of the result, especially if you are doing it for the first time, it would be useful to learn about the main intricacies of this simple operation. Today's step-by-step instructions are devoted to how to properly attach the lining to the wall.

Characteristics of the material. All the pros and cons

Materials natural origin have always been held in high esteem by people. Even at a time when questions environmental safety Few people cared yet. Basically, modern lining is made from wood species that grow almost everywhere:

• aspen;
• cedar;
• Linden;
• coniferous species.

also in Lately Plastic lining has gained particular popularity. It imitates wood, but is cheaper. Some people look at such a “surrogate” with a fair amount of disdain, but as sales of finishing materials show, they are a small minority.




Let's take a look at its main trump cards:

1. simple processing;
2. long-term preservation of operational properties;
3. camouflage of utility lines;
4. high sound insulation performance;
5. visual appeal.

What can you say about the disadvantages? Every material has them, and lining in this sense cannot be an exception.

1. sensitivity to moisture and temperature changes;
2. the possibility of drying out and cracking under the influence of specific temperature conditions;
3. the potential for fungus to appear (how to get rid of fungus on walls);
4. flammability:
5. Availability harmful substances(for plastic lining)

Don’t be in a hurry to get upset: almost all of these advantages can be easily corrected if you attend to preventive treatment with antiseptics and water repellents in a timely manner. Only after this can you confidently attach the lining to any wall surface, knowing that nothing bad will happen to it over time.


There is another option for using metal lining:

• steel;
• aluminum.

Such material will definitely not rot or deform, and will not release life-threatening substances. However, it tends to get hot, so you should avoid placing it in areas exposed to the sun, or near light sources or water pipes(read about how to hide pipes without installing them in the wall).

A few tips for choosing the right material will certainly not be superfluous. Moreover, there are a lot of options on the market, and it will not be easy for a beginner to figure out which material is best to attach to the wall.

1. try to choose boards with the maximum width - this makes it easier to carry out subsequent installation of the material;
2. in the case of vertical fixation of the lining, ensure that its length coincides with the height of the room;
3. optimal choice tree species for a bath - deciduous for the steam room and coniferous for the shower or dressing room;
4. The main criterion when purchasing is the dryness of the material; if you notice even slight moisture, refrain from purchasing, as installation will be impossible.

Preparatory moment. Marking and counting

It is present in every type of installation work.

• do everything necessary measurements in room;
• calculate required amount finishing material;
• decide how many consumables you need to purchase for the frame structure;
• equip your work area, having gotten rid of everything unnecessary, if there is any large furniture nearby, then it is better to cover it with film to avoid contamination.

Preparation of tools and materials

Here, even a beginner who has never taken on any kind of home installation is difficult to surprise with anything. The same classic set of tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• cord plumb line;
• meter;
• pencil.

And here it is necessary materials:

• bars for sheathing;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• clampers.

And, in fact, the lining itself. Nothing will work without her!

Frame installation

The main thing you have to face at this stage is the choice of location battens.

• horizontally;
• vertically.

To do this, you need to proceed from how you will attach the material to the wall:

• if the lining is located vertically, then the sheathing must be fixed in a horizontal position;
• if the lining is placed horizontally, then, accordingly, the frame must be mounted vertically.

Everything else is according to the scheme:

1. prepare wooden blocks with a thickness of 1 centimeter and drill holes in them with a minimum pitch of 50 centimeters, they should be approximately 1.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws;
2. attach the bars to the wall and mark points through the holes for subsequent drilling;
3. drill holes in the wall according to the marks and insert the prepared dowels;
4. fix the bars to the dowels, controlling the accuracy of fastening using a level; you can also make a plywood spacer under the rail for convenient work or buy leveling wedges in the store and install the sheathing in this way with minimal effort.

Installation of lining

We have already noted above that clapboard boards can be mounted on the wall both horizontally and vertically. Each option has its own nuances, determined by the specifics of use in a particular room.

Vertical arrangement

• visually increases the height of the room;
• expands its upper and lower boundaries;
• recommended for use in bath rooms, as it promotes optimal air circulation.

Fixation method: finishing nails, clamps, decorative screws.



Installation nuances:

1. fixation should begin from the corner;
2. after the board is level, it is nailed, and the head is bitten off with a side cutter; if clamps are used, then they are nailed to the frame, and the other part into the groove of the board;
3. when fixing the lining on the wall, check every 5-10 boards to ensure that the levelness is maintained; a corded plumb line is ideal for this;
4. the last lining is adjusted to the desired size using a hacksaw.

Horizontal arrangement

• increases the width of the room;
• suitable for high rooms;
• emphasizes the visual volume of the room.

Fixation method: finishing nails, clamps, self-tapping screws.




Installation nuances:

1. Fixation should begin from the ceiling and gradually go down;
2. check the evenness of the landing every ten boards;
3. the last board is cut to required sizes using a hacksaw for wood;
4. all fragments are knocked close to each other with a hammer;
5. the joint between the wall and the floor can be covered with a beautiful plinth.

An informative video on the features of installing lining:

Of course, having carefully studied the proposed step by step instructions, you are unlikely to become a pro, but you will definitely prepare for your first “acquaintance” with the material. Here's a couple more to follow up good advice, which will help you avoid common mistakes among beginners when attaching popular materials to the wall:

1. lining purchased in a store should be unpacked and placed face down on any flat surface - it is advisable to let it sit for a couple of days and only then proceed with installation;
2. minimum permissible temperature indoors during direct installation - 5 degrees Celsius, if lower - any operations with the material should be postponed until “better times”;
3. after the lining is already fixed to the sheathing, it is recommended to cover it with varnish - this way you can achieve different types textures on the surface: glossy, matte, with the effect of wet asphalt, stone, etc.;
4. you should not attach clapboard to the wall hardwood wood, when it comes to exterior work - only coniferous species are used for this purpose;
5. if you plan to use the lining in the bathroom, toilet, balcony or kitchen, then it is best to use Alternative option made of plastic or aluminum - will last much longer;
6. but for the bedroom, hall, hallway, classic wooden lining- perfect option;
7. do not use plastic elements in the steam room - heat provokes the release of chemicals that can negatively affect the health of you, your guests and loved ones.

Conclusion

Of course, knowing how to properly attach lining to a wall can come in handy more than once in your life. Especially if you get own home- and you will systematically arrange all these countless square meters for yourself. There is absolutely nothing complicated about this - installing lining on a wall is one of the most simple operations in finishing, and the visible difficulties are nothing more than fleeting moments that easily go away with the accumulation of your experience.
You can improve your skills all your life - and why not start learning new things with the operation we were talking about today? To further expand your installation skills, we advise you to read the article: “How to attach drywall to a wall: 2 methods with photos and videos.”








Photo: vk.com

In the world of metal, plastic and concrete, it is quite difficult to feel comfortable. It’s prestigious to live in a house decorated with technological materials, but you will be haunted by feelings of cold.

The presence of wood in the interior will bring the missing warmth and create a natural microclimate. And if you decide to sheathe wooden slats walls, the issue of wall decoration and comfort should be resolved at the same time.

The lumber is suitable for both interior and facade finishing. But you shouldn’t make the entire wall the same type, relying on decorative features sheathing, because the fine texture of the boards in small spaces looks uninteresting. It is welcome in the form of panels, and goes well with other textures, such as plaster or wallpaper. The balcony looks decent, where such cladding is especially appropriate.

The natural material is made from well-known tree species that grow everywhere.

Ennobled look "Extra" - from coniferous species and aspen, is considered elite and suitable for interior decoration.

Cladding boards of grade A also belong to the highest class. B and C are in demand for outdoor use. In addition to eurolining, there are also decorative types(block house).

The slats vary in length and are available in 4 sizes: 2 100 mm with a subsequent increase in parameters by 30 mm - 2400 etc

In general, the range allows you to choose a material based on the capabilities and ideas about the practicality of cladding.

In addition to environmentally friendly lining, a polymer analogue is also produced. Selected for a specific room suitable slats a certain type of wood, and the priority depends on the purpose of the room. Thus, a bathhouse is not finished with pine for the reason that it reacts to high degrees by releasing resin.

Plastic panels are relevant for baths and kitchens - beautiful in appearance, but not comparable to the natural energy of wood.

Walls made of natural boards are:

• warm
• good sound insulation
• the smell of the forest
• long service life

Making cladding is not difficult if you have patience and have at least approximate skills in working with tools.

At the preparation stage, the boards are covered protective composition(basic “Pinotex”). For shade, they are treated with stain or glaze (for example, “Belinka”), but this is already at the finishing stage.

After the process, they need to be dried well, and brought into the house a day before the start of work, so that the wood does not dry out later.

Installation with clamps, nails and staples

Installation of the lining takes place on the sheathing. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

The finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the structure frame is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the sheathing slats will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. Insulation is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is placed on it. Both layers not only retain heat, but also make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the sheathing, which Necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The method of choosing a mount is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the tenon into the recess of the board.

The fastening is:

• secret
• external

performed:

• staples
• screws
• nails
• clampers

What are we going to fasten it with?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. When using nails, use a hammer - this will help to completely sink the head into the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

If you have decided on this point, it’s time to move directly to the process. Even before the construction of the sheathing began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now you only need to align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally, create a visual impression wide room. When the planks move vertically, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. The preference is yours.

Horizontal version

The principle of the arrangement of the planks starts from the ceiling and moves towards the floor with a similar direction of the grooves. This will prevent the entry of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

Note on working with block house lining, similar in appearance to rounded log.

• The groove should point upward and the side of the board, according to the idea, should hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps left, and to avoid them, the planks are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of lath.
• The parts are connected to the sheathing with nails with small heads, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

All that remains is to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the slats, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The cladding is ready.

The layout of the lining with an upward direction starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the sheathing. The caps will then be hidden by the inserted corner or you can bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and the smooth canvas forms a flawlessly designed wall.

At the final stage, beautiful slats, baseboards and corners are nailed down.

We install lining on aerated concrete walls

Let's consider the option of cladding directly onto the surface without a wooden structure.

1. From a collection of materials, we select strips with a defect for the guides, pre-treated with a protective compound.
2. Take a drill bit for concrete 6 mm and make holes.
3. We set the first level in both planes.
4. Insert a dowel into the finished hole NAT 6.
5. We screw self-tapping screws into the grooves of the planks and insert them into the nylon dowel.
6. We control the exact location of the guides. For correction, we insert fragments from hard linings.

We will prepare clamps for fastening and fix each one 3 carnations. The way to work with them is this:

• A fastener element is inserted into the groove and nailed into the open holes. In the process we use an extension - an inverted nail with the tip sticking out forward. This technique will prevent deformation of the wooden edges;
• Drowning 2 nail, turn the clamp according to the vector directed towards the sheathing. We track the vertical of the bar;
• All that's left is to score 3rd nail in the center. We nail the finishing part with a thin nail along the edge, and the imperfections of the fasteners will be hidden by the decorative plinth;

In front of you is a solid surface where you need to cut out a place for the socket.

Since it was provided in advance, you took care of running the cable and only covered it with cardboard while you were working.

At the time of cladding, its location was marked on the boards in the neighborhood. Therefore, it will not be much effort to bring the system outside. Now we cut out the opening using a wood cutter. We install a tree box into the gaping space, and now all that's left is the electrical work.

Decorative aspects of tinting are left to the last stage. A translucent glaze that creates a protective barrier with a translucent structural surface is relevant.

Everything is learned in practice, and the experience gained and confidence in your abilities will push you to other achievements in home improvement. Go ahead and let your design be unique!

Can be used for surface finishing different materials. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the common options for surface cladding is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

In this article we will take a closer look at installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Ways to fasten the lining

Try to lay the bars evenly

Installation of lining on walls is best done using lathing - a wooden frame. To do this, all the sheathing bars, both horizontal and vertical plane, should be set exactly.

Even minor mistakes can, over time, lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the sheathing is completed, the lining is fastened. Below you can see a diagram of the lathing for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if the lining is used to cover surfaces in a bathhouse, the material must be pre-treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the fastening method. The work will be the same for walls and ceilings. There are two ways to place boards:

1. Vertical. With this method of placement, work begins from one of the nodes. The first board is fastened with the groove facing outwards. The next plank is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fastening the board, use a level to check the evenness of its placement.
2. Horizontal. With this placement, the tenon of the board is directed upward, this allows water to roll down the finish. This installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not attach the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, insert into the groove of the finishing panel small area boards, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent the appearance of cracks or holes.

When installing lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, the boards may swell after a certain time. After finishing is completed, the cracks are covered with plinth.

Regardless of the chosen fastening method, the first and last planks are attached using nails with a small head.

The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:

• using screws, self-tapping screws or nails;
• clasps. This is the name for clamps that have a design with a special holder that holds the tenon of the board;
• construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the sheathing and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the rest of the sheathing bars.

Fastening with nails

A standard size board will require 6 - 7 nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not capable of ensuring a long service life of the structure. When driven in, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a punch or pre-make holes in the right area panels.

For one board standard sizes You will need approximately 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving in. But in some situations, this fastening method is the only possible solution.

For this work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered in with a hammer. The caps are driven inside using a hammer, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Choose quality fasteners

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls is not particularly important. You can often find the use of this method for building baths.

But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can lead to drying out of fasteners, which will further worsen the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to treat the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are fairly high-quality fasteners, so if a long service life of the finish is required, their use can be considered the optimal solution.

To implement such fasteners, you will need to pre-drill holes in the boards. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board using a screwdriver. They must enter to the maximum possible depth. To hide the fastening site, you can use a wooden pin or sand the surface.

Fastening with a stapler

How to properly attach lining to a wall using a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and will not take much of your time and effort. But at the same time, you will need to know how to use such a tool. For more information on how to fasten lining with a stapler, watch this video:

Staples must be inserted at an angle of 45°. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar installation procedure will proceed without complications.

Fastening with clamps

It is convenient to use clamps for hidden fasteners

Clamps allow for hidden fastening of almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Installing lining using such devices will achieve the following advantages:

1. At making the right choice size of the fastener, you can install it discreetly and guarantee its strength.
2. The clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature long time. This allows the use of this method of fastening in bathhouses.

To install eurolining of a standard profile, clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased, and for fastening a block house - 6 mm. To finish 1 m2 of surface you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixation, the plate is placed on the tenon of the first panel and secured to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to install the lining on one nail, as it can be torn out.

It is better to screw in screws using a screwdriver. This will significantly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal installation of lining

When placing the boards horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you can clearly see how best to attach the trim. In the ceiling section, the final board is cut to width, which will significantly deteriorate the decorative component. In addition, with this installation method there will be holes between the boards, which will negatively affect high rates moisture in a bath or sauna. For more information on how to clap a house horizontally, watch this video:

Therefore, mainly when placed horizontally, the boards begin to be fastened from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first ridge into the groove of the previous one.

All boards are installed according to this scheme. The final strip is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden using a plinth.

As you can see, fastening the lining can be done different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help is most likely not required.