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How to make a stove at home. Laying brick stoves: pros and cons of the material, choice of bricks, location of the stove, stages of work and rules for further operation. Choosing a furnace installation location

One of the signs of the convenience of living in a private cottage is its consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the building may be, it can only be truly cozy warm house. One of the best solutions– organization of heating using brick oven for home. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick stoves to harmonize with any environment, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

With proper design and installation, a brick stove can also be used in wooden houses

What types of brick stoves are there for houses?

Brick stoves intended for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating for individual rooms or the entire house;

Cooking. The design is designed in such a way that the main heat flow goes upward - to the hob. Such a stove is heated only during cooking;

Heating and cooking. Essentially, this is a heating stove with hob. Since such a stove has a mixed functional purpose, cooking food on it in the summer is not always comfortable.

Whatever type of stove it is, some general qualities must be present in any case:

the oven should warm up well;

the chimney design must provide good draft;

high level of general fire safety;

the stove should fit harmoniously into the overall environment, creating a feeling of comfort.

Based on the shape of the product, brick kilns are divided into square, round, corner, T-shaped, and rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the thickness of the walls of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made of thick-walled, thin-walled and combined types.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the method of laying them

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

There are several reasons why a brick stove for a home is more preferable than products made from other materials:

The design, thought out to the smallest detail, perfectly serves as a heat storage device. It is this feature that allows you to fire a brick stove much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood in metal stoves need to be laid at intervals of 5-6 hours;

Due to the high accumulation of heat, a brick oven is highly economical and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about its metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer; almost complete decomposition of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and a water base. Excess heat heats the masonry, which in turn warms the rooms;

There is no effect of incandescence on the outer parts, so the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel ones.

The bricks are hot on the outside, but not red-hot, unlike iron parts

This is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when cooled, it is absorbed back. This process is commonly called stove breathing and thanks to it, the humidity level of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating devices require the installation of an additional humidifier; without it, the air dries out.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its disadvantages:

The long cooling of brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this medal also has back side– no less long warm-up. Therefore, when lighting a stove in a cold room large area, the temperature in the house will rise slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to purchase a convector.

Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is erected simultaneously with the house. The furnace must function without interruption, so special knowledge and experience are needed to design and build it. Even despite free access to drawings with orders for brick stoves for the home, you can’t do this without a specialist, and good stove craftsmen are in short supply.

For high-quality laying of stoves, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience

Still, in most cases, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, and many home owners prefer a classic brick stove to other types of heating.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer installation services for fireplaces and stoves. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Which brick to choose for the stove

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature influences. The building material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. The overall service life of the stove depends on the characteristics of the brick from which the stove will be made.

It is customary to mark bricks. One of the main indicators is density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will occur. To build a stove, you need bricks whose markings indicate strength grade M150-250, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. A strength grade that is too high may indicate the presence of substances in the brick that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next marking indicator is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. He plays important role when choosing products used in laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking of bricks for stoves in comparison with other types of material

Frost resistance implies the ability of a product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Hollow facing ones are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, you need solid red brick. Plastic molding is preferred. These products withstand temperature changes and do not crack even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

silicate and pressed bricks;

bricks made using the slip casting method;

unfired raw materials.

The maximum aging of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 °C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or to use them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

The Sh8 brand is suitable for the firebox (such bricks have straw- yellow and darkish inclusions). For the arch of the firebox, it is recommended to use fireclay products (W 22-Sh45). The only exception is sauna stoves, where due to high humidity, such bricks are contraindicated.

Sh8 brand refractory brick has a straw-yellow color

How to determine the optimal location of the furnace

The location in the house for the stove must be determined according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

area of ​​a residential building;

how many rooms should be heated;

what is a stove for and what type?

how gases will be removed during combustion;

the location of the stove must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional furnace or water heating system equipment will be required.

To heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen, a heating and cooking stove is used. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are heated by the heat-dissipating wall.

When building a house made of stone, you can immediately think about the placement of chimneys in the walls, which will increase the usable area of ​​the house and ensure optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of rooms, you need to think about the place where it can be most successfully placed so that the surfaces transferring heat from the stove allow for uniform and maximum heat distribution.

Typically, the place to place the firebox is a hallway or kitchen. If the stove is designed well, it is almost invisible in the house. It does not clutter up the living space and is in perfect harmony with all interior elements. For example, a combination option is often used. In one room there is one side of the building - the stove, and in adjacent room, its second part is the fireplace. The chimney system is common.

A brick stove for a home cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. Also, do not forget that the oven needs regular maintenance, which means we need to carefully consider convenient approaches.

Furnace foundation

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

Furnace foundations are divided into the following types:

reinforced concrete;

• pile-screw;

  columnar;

  made of blocks.

It is important! Whatever type of foundation the foundation belongs to, it must be created separately from the foundation of the house (except monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

The gravel-sandy soil type requires the preparation of a shallow foundation;

For clayey or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone cushion;

Differences between arranging the foundation for a brick and iron stove

In the permafrost zone, a pile-screw foundation is used;

Dry rocky soils make it possible to get by or minimum thickness reasons or not to use it at all;

The stove cannot be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick kiln:

Taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a pit is prepared.

The bottom is compacted with horizontal alignment. Crushed stone, broken brick and rubble stone are poured in an even layer. Tamping again.

A solution is prepared (proportion 1:3). The embankment is filled with mortar;

use a combination of crushed stone and cement;

apply a frame made of reinforcement and then fill it with concrete;

a reinforced concrete slab is poured, on which the foundation is made from bricks and concrete and rubble pouring.

Move on to the next steps after all the used solution has dried.

Laying three-layer waterproofing.

Bricks that have been stored under storage should not be used in construction. open air. Due to repeated freezing and getting wet, they become brittle, which will reduce service life ovens.

To see some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a furnace, watch the video:

To fill the space between the stove foundation and the foundation of the house, use ordinary river sand.

The order of laying the furnace

How to properly build a stove in a house depends on the materials used and the chosen design, but the main stages of work are always the same:

The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its flood part;

Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;

Laying the fire part;

As soon as several rows are laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;

The combustion door is installed. The combustion chamber is formed;

Place on top of the combustion chamber hob;

Continuation of masonry with the gradual design of a gas convector system;

When the body of the stove is formed, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic doors are installed.

When choosing a door material for the stove, take into account the following points:

cast iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if the house likes to admire the play of flames;

Through the glass you can clearly see the fire burning in the oven.

All cast iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. Doors made of steel or glass are suitable for a wood-burning stove;

to avoid burns and protect children or pets from dangerous environments, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required;

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of laying brick stoves, according to the given scheme.

Rules for operating a brick stove

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you must follow certain operating rules:

The consistency of the stove's characteristics is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during fuel combustion.

The stove should be heated correctly. Heat loss when the blower is open reaches 15-20%. If the firebox door is open during combustion, all 40% will escape into the open air.

For the firebox, be sure to use dry firewood, prepared in advance. When using raw materials, less heat is released and due to the formation of caustic condensation, the brick walls are destroyed.

Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately identical logs - from 8 to 10 cm thick.

To see the errors in the installation and operation of brick stoves, watch the video:

Laying firewood should be done leaving an empty space of 10 mm between them. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with intersections. The optimal option for filling the firebox is 2/3. The gap between the firewood stack and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.

To ignite fuel, use ordinary paper, a torch, etc. Do not use flammable substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone.

As soon as the stove is lit, the view is covered a little, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.

The reference point when adjusting the draft during kindling is the color of the fire. A yellow flame color is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes straight into the chimney. Red flame - there is not enough air, the fuel burns partially, releasing harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as renovation work, it is best to organize in summer period, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically evaluate the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad firewood or other reasons, contamination occurs much faster and additional cleaning will be required. When soot accumulates, in the best case, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is reduced, and in the worst case, all the smoke and carbon monoxide can go indoors.

For information on cleaning a brick oven, watch the following video:

The ash chamber and cleaning of the grates should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a valve, a view and a blower door serve to regulate the draft of the stove and its operating mode. Their functionality and integrity must be constantly monitored. As soon as problems arise or wear out individual parts, the issue needs to be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If there is a stove in the house, it means there is warmth and home comfort. But regardless of the chosen brick stove design, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different sources energy starting from solid fuel, ending with electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types stoves can perform a heating function; on some models you can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be built from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating that are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

The ability of a brick oven to “breathe” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. The home stove provides optimal air humidity, with a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, it may be felt excessive humidity air.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters the temperature should be even higher (since they dry out the air greatly). It turns out that a brick kiln with an efficiency rate of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before you begin construction, you must select the type and model future design. The main criteria for selection will not be her appearance and ease of construction, and heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking food.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room along the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. A conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation is used. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but it is very expensive, regular one will do roofing metal), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. In itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take over all thermal energy ovens. In simple words, “so that the heat does not go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, combined with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. The removal of the metal sheet is at least 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution gets wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz are used quarry sand.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. Thick layer bricks warm up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thereby transfer less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

It will depend on where the stove is installed effective work. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is needed for correct operation and full cleaning capabilities.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tile), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of a regular single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or in sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens such temperatures do not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace from it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way to check is to check for sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in kiln construction. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Medium-fraction quarry sand is used as sand in cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, which will cause the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land by first cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries when exposed to high temperatures, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for masonry chimney. It has the best strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. On clay mortar it will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and it has a bench in its design. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only heats the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private home, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on heating system, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.

Therefore, a search query about how to fold a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your home on our own, then beginners are recommended to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Types of brick kilns

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and others include several functions in their “set of capabilities”. Therefore, in order to decide the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become decorative decoration Houses.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in spring and autumn period for supporting normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On summer cottage V small house It’s better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

Many different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be quite miniature and take up large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the stove?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think through this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally bump into them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

Pechnoe brick building can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.

• To obtain maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near external wall buildings, since it will quickly cool down and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure may have different decorative finishes, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage point
• When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.

Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase everything necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
• A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• A scriber is a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• A construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
• Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
• (trowels) different sizes used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
• Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is made “for jointing”, without further cladding.
• Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• Sieve with metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at height, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made more sides ovens 100÷150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
• Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined plastic film or roofing felt.

• Then, it is laid out on the bottom sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step is to install a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick into the formwork, to its entire height. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
• Next, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.

• To begin laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the stove base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.

After these preparatory work, you can move on to masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen When starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, they first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.

As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, as it may form reverse thrust, and smoke will come out of the room when kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the required order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.

Processing seams for jointing

If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then inside the walls will also have indentations between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on the mortar, to check each of the laid rows building level so that the entire structure does not become distorted.

Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.

These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of fulfilling all the necessary small house functions, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.

Dimensions of this heating structure, excluding height chimney, are 750×630×2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.

To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Sh-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Fire door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single-burner hob	1	410×340
Steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
Steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
Roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.

In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.

This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. A row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut-out is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks.
	After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined.
	When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared area using clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row they combine into common space the first vertical channel and hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney pipe. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row brickwork overlaps the metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then, on the outside of the furnace, it is installed metal corner, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks.
	On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. A row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If you decide to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering diagram, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

Stove heating as a method of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove maker, many country property owners are forced to master the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase building materials for a significant amount.

Types of furnaces

A DIY brick stove for your home can be:

• Russian;
• Swedish;
• Dutch.

Furnaces are also distinguished:

• baths;
• garden;
• heating;
• heating and cooking;
• fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a place to rest, called a couch. Under it there is a cooking chamber - a firebox or crucible, under which there is an ash pan. It must ensure continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick stoves for the home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, a Russian stove is capable of heating a living space with an area exceeding 40 square meters. But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small DIY brick oven is intended for:

• for space heating;
• for cooking food.

A cast iron stove with 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. During the construction of the stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is installed in another room.

A serious drawback of the design is the high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of stove units owes its appearance to Russian stove makers; it was they who invented it. The “Dutch” is intended for heating the premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To fully warm up with its help cold room, it will take 10 hours.

During the off-season, a DIY brick Dutch oven can retain heat for 24 hours. Its structural design ensures high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

“Dutch” is built only using oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and release it gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what you need for this

Having reviewed the stove designs and made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. In addition to the design, the stove structure must comply with fire safety requirements, which is why the preparation stage for its construction is so important, which involves:

1. Development detailed diagram laying a stove with or without a stove.
2. Determining the installation location of the structure.
3. Selection of materials.
4. A selection of tools.
5. Drawing up construction cost estimates.

In addition to the above measures, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how competently the design of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you don’t have to develop diagrams - drawings of the furnace with your own hands, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you need to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also wouldn’t hurt to make sure that there is a phased detailed description carrying out construction.

When choosing a location for a stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of ​​the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of laying a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove makers advise novice craftsmen to build scaled-down models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When are they chosen? complex designs stoves - laying stoves with your own hands can be an overwhelming task for inexperienced craftsmen. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of brick.

There are 4 types of bricks for sale for the construction of furnace units:

• hand molding;
• ceramic;
• refractory;
• silicate.

Ceramic products are used to cover the unit. It is advisable to purchase M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform than cheap products. It is able to withstand repeated heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when you build a brick stove with your own hands for a dacha or private household, you need to take it clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units can be normal, thin or oily. The proportions for preparing the mortar and the technology for laying bricks depend on which type is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.

Preparing tools

To build a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different instruments: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools needed:

• for cutting bricks - a grinder;
• for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell no larger than 2 millimeters;
• shovel;
• to compact the mortar - jointing;
• for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
• a hammer drill plus a mixer attachment for it;
• for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

• tape measure at least 5 meters long;
• to control verticality - a plumb line;
• a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
• to check the evenness of the installation - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
• construction and flexible levels.

Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln

When we install a stove with our own hands, first of all, ensure that the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof ceiling is at least 15 centimeters. Then you can begin marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging the common building foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected to the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage differs due to different degrees of load.

First, the foundation pit is filled with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, it top level should be lower floor surface by 19 centimeters. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor is calculated upper floors. The base must be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Laying a brick stove for a home

First of all, you need to study the drawings of a brick stove with your own hands. Then prepare the solution and lay the first row using a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not “spar” the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. Hold the brick suspended with one hand.
2. Applying light blows, mark the place of the chip.
3. Holding the brick suspended, they cut it sharply and accurately into pieces according to the marked marks.
4. When you build a wood-burning stove with your own hands for a summer house or home, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First they put outer row from bricks, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
5. The initial rows are built from whole material, and the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the solid structure. This point is important when constructing chimney channels and fireboxes. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of building arches and vaults with your own hands

When constructing arches and vaults, they also use do-it-yourself drawings of a brick kiln for a summer house or other building. The bricks are laid using the gradual overlap technology, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, a “lock” layout or masonry using the “lintel” method is used - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be replaced with a wooden frame.

For the construction of pipes they use sand-lime brick, able to withstand temperature changes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no unevenness or chips in the chimney. When the stove structure is ready, a control fire is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small DIY brick stoves are popular in private homes. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.

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Since ancient times, the construction of home stoves has been entrusted to stove makers who have the appropriate skills and a desire to improve their skills. High-quality masonry of a heating structure can be considered a certain type of art, although building a stove with your own hands is also possible.

At the same time, it should be noted that building stoves with your own hands is now quite possible. But to do this, you should carefully study the recommendations of professionals. You will need to select the design of the heating unit and quality materials. A home craftsman who has built a stove with his own hands will have the opportunity to admire his creation for many years.

The construction of a furnace with your own hands begins with the choice of its design solution. Not all brick heating units are the same - they differ in parameters and functionality.

According to the classification, the following types of brick kilns are distinguished:

• heating structures;
• heating and cooking;
• special units.

The latest devices include, for example, sauna stoves (see article: ""). You can build a combined heating unit such as a stove-fireplace. To maintain heat for a long time, install brick version brazier In cold weather, they are heated for one hour either in the morning or in the evening.

Selection of heating design

When choosing the type of stove, owners of private houses and summer cottages first of all take into account their own material capabilities. Of course, laying a brick heating structure will cost much more than assembling a metal device. Despite the difference in price, most homeowners nevertheless prefer stoves made of brick.

Building a stove with your own hands: important nuances

First of all, before building a stove in the house, you need to make a foundation for it. For the heating structure, a monolithic foundation is made of brick. Any concrete can be used for it, but its grade cannot be lower than 300. The required laying depth must be observed, which should be below the soil freezing level.

The masonry of the stoves is made of solid bricks using clay mortar. The firebox requires fireclay bricks. The thickness of the seam must be observed. It should not exceed 5 millimeters, but it is better if it is only 3 millimeters. It is not difficult to make masonry mortar yourself. For it, take quartz sand and mix it with clay in a ratio of 4:1. You will also need a sieve with cells up to 5 millimeters. Before preparing the mixture, the sand is sifted.

Laying technology fireclay bricks similar to what is observed when using a regular one. For this you will need fireclay clay. If we build a stove with our own hands, many questions arise regarding the installation of doors, stoves, valves and others. metal elements. When arranging them, you must comply with the parameters of expansion joints - they must be at least 5 millimeters.

All fittings used must be securely fastened. The head above the roof (chimney) is erected using conventional sand-cement mortar.

A variety of stove accessories are sold in specialized shopping centers and construction markets. It can differ in cost several times depending on who produced it. Foreign products are more expensive than domestic products, but they have a more attractive appearance. Nowadays, a door with heat-resistant glass is most often installed.

Features of the furnace device

The traditional design of a classic brick oven provides the fastest heating in the part intended for cooking, while the walls warm up more slowly (read also: ""). Many consumers are not satisfied with this feature. To solve this problem, an afterburning system is provided. As a result, there is no point in fully loading the oven for cooking, but you can only get by with the secondary firebox.

In this situation, the nozzle that supplies air for afterburning the fuel acts as a blower. In this case, combustion products are removed by adjusting the gate. The chimney is equipped using an iron or asbestos-cement pipe.

The chimney pipe is equipped with thermal insulation elements only when it passes indoors. The outside is insulated with basalt wool, and the top is covered with foil to prevent condensation from settling on the internal surfaces. The junction of the chimney brick with the metal exhaust pipe is caulked with asbestos cord.

When the construction of a heating system brick construction happens in country house, it is not always advisable to equip a shield with wells and channels, as should be done when constructing a Dutch oven (in more detail: ""). To ensure good traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 3 meters. In summer, a side firebox will be sufficient to operate the stove. When starting to cook, you need to load about three kilograms of fuel - peat briquettes or small logs. Read also: "".

Tips from master stove makers on how to build a stove correctly

1. A good solution to increase the heat transfer area would be to install steel pipe, to which metal radiators are welded. For this purpose, you can also use any iron products.
2. To build a stove you need to use solid ceramic bricks. Products made from dinas, resistant to high temperatures operation, should be used when assembling the firebox. The fact is that it transfers heat worse compared to red stove bricks - it takes longer to warm up at a higher cost - almost 2 times (read also: " ").
3. Before building a stove in the house, the brick must be placed in water for about 4 hours. When laying, bricks should be placed as accurately as possible, leveling with a mallet. If they are already laid, they cannot be moved from their place. Stove makers usually spread the solution with their hands, without using a trowel. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to trim bricks; you also need to have a grinder.

Materials and tools

To build a furnace, you will need the following materials and tools:

• bricks;
• red clay and quartz sand;
• cement;
• stove fittings;
• corner, plumb, level;
• Bulgarian;
• Master OK;
• workwear.

It would be wise if, before starting construction of the furnace with your own hands, House master consult with professionals to take advantage of their advice.

Some tips for building a stove with your own hands in the video: