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Wood burning stove. DIY brick stoves: secrets of the craft Brick wood stove

Country houses are increasingly equipped small ovens various models. A stove in the interior by its very presence makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn it provides a comfortable temperature in the rooms, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside or a damp, cold wind is blowing.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact stoves for country houses, designed to work on various types fuel:

  • Gas;
  • Electrical;
  • Models burning coal, pellets or wood.

Wood-burning stoves are in particular demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, the breathtaking smell of real wood, and the special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and in reputable country cottages.

This article will focus specifically on wood-burning stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heating device, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves It is customary to subdivide according to the following indicators:

  • Purpose:
    • Heating systems, their only task is to heat the building;
    • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special design elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
    • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit or for preparing hot water. Varieties of such structures are sauna stoves;
    • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruit, a hot water box, an oven, a summer chimney and a samovar connection point.
  • Material of manufacture:
    • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
    • Cast iron;
    • Brick;
  • installation location:
    • classic options, designed for installation near a wall;
    • corner;
    • island. The design of such stoves allows them to be placed in the center of the room;
  • burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
    • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one stack of firewood;
    • long-term (up to 12 hours), which is achieved through a system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the and .

Cast iron stoves

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. Used as a backup heat source that can be used in emergency situations. Unlike thin-walled steel, cast iron stoves Having warmed up quickly, they retain heat for a long time.

Products in this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in system additional feed air, which allows pyrolysis gases to be burned.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip your dacha water heating. Their power is enough to heat one and two-story country houses large area. Provided that the CO is filled with a non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer house is the most durable, reliable and high-status option. But such stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is many times compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the stove models is used as a country stove:

  • Dutch
  • Swede
  • Kuznetsov furnaces.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose quite compact options, stoves similar design are available for self-laying (with strict adherence to the procedures), have an acceptable cost (even when ordering the work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model that:

  • will provide the optimal temperature in the country house with minimal wood consumption;
  • will warm up evenly over the entire height;
  • maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises of the cottage for a long time;
  • have a maximum heating of the outer walls of no more than 95°C;
  • the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
  • its calculated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
  • The presence of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. This is dangerous to human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
  • visually appealing appearance.

What you need for work

If you decide to install a brick stove in your dacha yourself, you should start by choosing its type. Then the desired order is selected (on the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design from an experienced stove maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having the order in hand, you can go shopping for materials (and the missing tools). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick stoves. The only difference is the amount of materials required.

To work you will definitely need:

  • brick, but not just any brick, but the one indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

  • by size:
    • 250*120*65 - normal;
    • 250*120*80 - thickened;
    • 288*138*138 - modular;
  • By strength (from grade 75 to grade 300);
  • By variety:
    • Only 1st and 2nd grade bricks are suitable for masonry. The body of the furnace and the chimney are made from it;
  • Fireproof (another name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.
  • Red clay (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is divided into:
    • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
    • Average (≤ 15%);
    • Skinny (about 30%);
  • Sand (preferably quarry sand);
  • Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay when making mortar for laying the firebox;
  • Water (preferably rain or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
  • Slaked lime. This material will be required during installation, as well as the head of the chimney, which rises above the roof;
  • Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, grade 400 and above will be sufficient.

Additional materials

  • Steel profiles (if they are provided for in the order);
  • Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
  • Annealed steel wire;
  • Asbestos cord;
  • Waterproofing (roofing felt);
  • Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
  • Fireproof mastics (Russian “Garant” or “Monolit”), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial capabilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while simultaneously increasing its quality). Purchase factory-prepared dry masonry mixtures. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to basic and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

  • Fire door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
  • Blower door;
  • Views;
  • Valves;
  • Rotary dampers;
  • Wind vane.

Tool

For ease of use, you will need the following tools:

  • Stovemaker's hammer;
  • Pick;
  • Construction trowel (another name, trowel);
  • Jointing for masonry joints (preferably);
  • Knife-scrape;
  • Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
  • Measuring tool:
    • Roulette;
    • folding meter;
    • plumb line;
    • square;
    • levels: construction, water (if any, laser);
  • falcons;
  • grater and grater;
  • grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
  • extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Carrying out masonry

If earlier the laying of a stove was carried out exclusively according to existing procedures, today the Internet provides the opportunity to lay out a simple stove, guided step by step photos with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since correct reading of orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photos), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the stove has significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg for this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making a foundation.

In the case where the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend that you perform the screed in place of the future one.

After that:

  • We waterproof the masonry site by laying a sheet of waterproofing material (roofing felt);
  • we form on top of it sand cushion thickness of at least 10 mm;
  • under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (item 1 of the order given above);
  • In the second and third rows we have an air vent door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using wire;
  • put the 2nd and 3rd row;
  • 4th is made with fireclay bricks;
  • A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm must be provided;
  • The fifth row is laid on edge. We form a stand inside the chimney for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight extension beyond the plane of the back wall of the furnace, a “blowout brick” is placed “dry” (without using masonry mortar);
  • There will be a firebox door in rows 6-8. We also wrap it with asbestos cord around the installation perimeter and connect the fastening wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
  • We place the 6th row “in the spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. Grouting internal walls chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess solution);
  • To ensure bandaging of masonry seams, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a ¾ brick (blanks of the required length are made with a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
  • In the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked from above. A “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed above the firebox to center the fire under the burner.
  • The 10th row, in order to hold the door open, is placed with the brick offset towards the rear wall. Before starting masonry, you should lay a wet asbestos cord, which will act as a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and the brick;
  • Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). To ensure that this does not lead to a displacement of the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a mounted (metal) pipe or made attached;
  • 12 row. This is the place where the valve is installed, which is pre-sealed with an asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
  • Then a ¼ chimney pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
  • The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris that has accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  • The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the baseboard is nailed.
  • The stove is whitewashed, after which outside surface covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove). The joints between the brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is advisable to paint all stove appliances with fire-resistant black paint.
  • A test fire is carried out (small wood chips, paper). After this, the structure is aged for 14-15 days to complete natural drying.

Below we present another selection of photographs, which shows that a brick oven can not only be laid “from scratch”, but also be completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, the pipe and foundation).

The stove, which had been standing at the dacha for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair or complete replacement of the stove, after checking its actual condition, a decision was made to replace it, preserving (in order to save money and time for masonry) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out this work, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

  • Kiln bricks of the “Vitebsk” brand – 450 pcs;
  • Fireclay bricks for the firebox – 40 pieces;
  • Sheet asbestos – 1 sheet;
  • Cement M400 – 1 bag;
  • Fireclay clay – 3 bags;
  • Fireproof black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600°C – 1 can;
  • Fireproof varnish (colorless) – 2 bottles;
  • Door with glass for the firebox – 1 piece;
  • Blower door (with matching pattern to match the main one) – 1 piece;
  • Medium size grate – 1 piece;

Views and valves were used from an old furnace.

Now let's look.

  1. This is what the stove looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, cracks around it and brick crumbling in the firebox were the basis for alteration.
  2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no stove underneath was resolved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut into its walls, into which a corner was inserted. To prevent the latter from diverging, it was fixed with wire. And two boards were placed under it (this is the second floor of the country house).
  3. Then they began to dismantle the oven. At the same time, they tried to preserve the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were retained on the pipe. This eliminated the need to go through the floor and ceiling covering again.
  4. Dismantling continues. It reached the oven. Since it is not needed for the new oven, we remove it.
  5. We reached the lower chimneys
  6. Everything has been removed down to the foundation
  7. And this is a “look through the pipe”. The sky is visible. This means traction is guaranteed.
  8. The stove maker turned out to be a professional. Therefore, instead of opening the seams, I suggested chamfering them. It turned out great.

  9. Laying the first brick of a new furnace
  10. The bottom row is ready. Used bricks are laid inside.
  11. This is what masonry done by a professional looks like
  12. A lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom-level heating of the air in the room.
  13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. On the right, bottom view.
  14. The turn came to the firebox door.
  15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
  16. Installing a hob on 1 burner (trying on).
  17. The craftsman formed a protruding brick canopy over the firebox. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the stove, but will be held in place by this element.
  18. The cooking surface is placed on mastic. There is a functional utensil rack nearby, which is very convenient.
  19. And this is the “belly of the stove,” one of the elbows of the internal chimney.
  20. And these are all 3 knees in the “group portrait”
  21. Firebox
  22. Almost full height. The visor and the valve are clearly visible (from the side).
  23. A dryer will be placed above the hob.
  24. And here you can see how the access issue was resolved warm air. Everything ingenious is simple (bottom view)
  25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
  26. The stove reached its ceiling, which was also equipped with a visor for beauty.
  27. We begin laying the pipe in the free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
  28. This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will definitely not fit. And it is necessary.
  29. This did not stop the professional. The stove maker simply used two jacks and lifted the remaining part of the pipe to the desired height.

  30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay it on top of it masonry mortar.
  31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
  32. We coat the surface of the stove with varnish, and metal elements. black paint. The work is completed.
  33. Control firebox.

Do-it-yourself stove, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick stove is made.

Let's look at the order of the oven, which we will make with our own hands:
First

Second

We install the blower door measuring 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate measuring 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in the bricks so that there is a gap of one centimeter around the perimeter of the grate.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke damper, which, when open, ensures the summer operation of the stove.
We will install a combustion door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind down the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Let's cut grooves in the bricks to install a kitchen stove measuring 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Grind down the edges of the brick into an oval shape.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, the order is the same as the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch the video for a complete understanding of the masonry process

This is how you can assemble an inexpensive stove with your own hands.

Design and diagrams of stoves for the home

1.Laying diagram of a two-tier heating stove
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with preferential bottom heating
4. Furnace laying designed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Conventionally, heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of used long time Based on imperfect heating units, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and country houses, heating brick stoves are still widely used, and the designs of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove makers who can repair or remodel them.

Currently, classic wood stoves for homes, with their characteristic advantages, are not used to heat rooms, but to give the interior uniqueness and originality.

Layout diagram of a two-tier heating stove

The design of the two-tier heating stoves shown in the photo is a structure of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat output of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper part is 2600 kcal/hour.

Furnaces for private households are provided with a brick lining with voids in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of two-tier ovens have exactly the same structure.

Such heating units use a ductless smoke circulation system. According to the furnace laying diagram, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases fall down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, escape through the undercut into the mounted smoke exhaust pipe.
At the bottom stove, the chimney runs through the top half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The top of the structure has a separate chimney.

The construction of a two-tier heating furnace is characterized by the simplicity of bricklaying, and the gas movement pattern is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (for more details: “Heating stoves for the home - do-it-yourself masonry”).

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke valves.

Typically, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural mass.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task(read: “How to repair a brick oven with your own hands”).

The chimney for the lower part of the two-tier heating structure should be laid out carefully.
If there are leaks in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes at the top will allow heat to pass through even if the two smoke valves are closed.

If desired, you can combine different types of stoves, rectangular or square in shape and operating on different types of fuel, into a single array.

Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

Laying a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is different in combination or mixed system smoke circulation. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat output is 4200 kcal/hour.

The design of square-shaped heating stoves with bottom heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

Side openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower ports and rise upward along them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the mounted smoke exhaust pipe and evaporate into the atmosphere. Read also: “Heating stoves under development.”

Consequently, the diagrams of stoves for a square-shaped house with bottom heating include 3 hoods - an upper hood and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on hard coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with primary bottom heating

If the heating structure has a predominant bottom heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal/hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a stove heating scheme for a private house is created using such a design, it is understood that the flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise along the riser to the roof (read also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go into the last of the risers, which turns into a chimney.

The above-described design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulation of gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The operating principle of the design allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood without cooling down.

The laying of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will open into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The ductless heating furnace masonry scheme shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating design. It has a round shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and light, hot gases rise to the top.

This home stove device consists of two parts - the firebox is located at the bottom.

In its roof there is a small khailo (mouth) that provides passage flue gases in the upper part, which represents a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called ductless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the roof, and when cooled, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut is located along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling towards the vault, there are buttresses designed to increase the internal heat absorption surface and to better absorb heat from the exhaust gases into the brick mass.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to make masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quite quickly. Read also: “Which brick oven is better for the home - types, advantages and disadvantages.”

Creating this oven is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the case when the smoke valve on the pipe is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the cracks in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the heat is not subject to cooling.

As for the disadvantages of stoves for a home of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To neutralize this disadvantage a little, it is necessary to make holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove operates perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the cracks between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the spaces of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made in rectangular or square shapes.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker to half a brick. Read also: “Brick shield for a metal furnace.”

Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Schemes of home stoves, developed at the Thermotechnical Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have dimensions of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a shaft-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the roof, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move through the collection channel into the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement lies in the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are made of half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of engineer Kovalevsky's furnace is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will reach the bottom of the oven completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: “Gas stove for the home - convenient heating”).

Smoke circulation systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this makes it easier to maintain the combustion chamber by draining slag into the ash pan or steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into a mounted pipeline.

Today, these brick kilns are preferred by owners of country houses and country houses.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices that you can also pay attention to.

An interesting diagram of a home stove is shown in the video:

Furnace laying

We first lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we place them on the mortar, using a level to check the horizontality. With light blows of a mallet we knock down the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks on mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the stove in plan and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock down the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After this, we lay the middle of the first row with bricks on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer 80-100mm long nails into the corners in the seam between the first and second rows.

Then we lower the plumb line one by one to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and tighten it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, a contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We lay the subsequent rows by controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We place the subsequent rows similarly to the first two, checking each row with the order.

As the laying proceeds, we clean the internal and external surfaces of excess squeezed out mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the stove masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

In thick joints, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should tightly fill the seam, squeezing out of it. During laying, we follow the rule of tying bricks. Each vertical seam must be overlapped by the brick of the next top row.

Typically, such a seam runs through the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, cannot always be achieved. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the furnace firebox from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging the seams of fireclay and fireclay masonry kiln brick not desirable due to different linear expansion coefficients.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on an edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and the fireclay brick.

Installation of cleanout and blower doors

Before installing the door, we check for a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame, free rotation of the door leaf in the hinges, absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

Detected defects are eliminated before installation or the door is replaced.

We insert a 50-60 cm long knitting wire into the door holes, fold it in half and twist it.

Apply mortar to the brickwork where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the masonry seams.

Grate installation

When installing stove appliances, you must remember that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the area high temperatures. If they are tightly walled into the stove masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, fire door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installation of the furnace door

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the furnace is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a cross-section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick into a castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installation of the stove

First lay out the row on which the slab will be installed without mortar.

Place the slab on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We lay the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with mortar, place an asbestos cord in it around the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and push it down with a mallet, making sure it is level and horizontal.

Oven installation

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is lined with bricks on edge, and the top is coated with a 25-30 mm layer of mortar to prevent burnout of the oven walls.

Laying arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to block various combustion openings, fireboxes and various chambers, using jumpers of simple and complex shapes. The ceiling in the wall is called an arch, and the ceiling arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault should be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with laying the heels, which are made according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault varies, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photographs show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself stoves”, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick stove in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying a stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the stove with a pipe installed without a base should not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay down a slab base, you should check the ability of the chimney to switch between the load-bearing beams in the attic and the tiles.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the stove structure should not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can allow them to sit in areas of cutting and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal distribution of the house.
The wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar should be drinking water or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
Mortar sand should be used from a quarry (not a river) because river sand particles have a rounded surface, which makes the mortar brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side kicks load-bearing structures home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to Look for When Making Masonry Bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid foundation, a horizontal wall and verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Reinstall the gasket and press the hammer into the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each row, check its flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, to ensure the verticality of the stove box, you need to pull out 1-3mm thick strings in the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Higher up, the water line drops so that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the stove. On the floor on the ceiling from which the groove is lowered, the nail is tilted and a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope; we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical rope is exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the seam, spread the mortar, place the brick and press it into place with a blow of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained using a Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, since the brick is more susceptible to destruction.
The cigarette parts are located side by side in the seams.
In an area that changes the direction of the flow of the smoky bottom, the door is always identified as a cleaning hole, or better yet, a "brick push" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall is easier to understand than the necessary chimney cleaning.
The laying must be planned in such a way that the brick does not rely solely on door frame or into the oven, and was closed over them or was made with a wedge-shaped castle or vaulted vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles), as well as others steel parts less should be used as the metal takes longer to heat up than the clay and can no longer be destroyed by this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a 5mm layer where you come into contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened, and placed along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clear the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent lighting.
Doors and corners must be fixed into the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with two-strand wires.

At the other ends, twist past the nail and pull the wire, keeping it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will originate in the chimney.
Chimney walls must be smooth and level.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not reach the inside of the stove, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make a canopy out of the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the oven ceiling to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
Area ratio cross section a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​the entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, a chimney height of 10 m should be about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a chimney, a cap on a chimney) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, bricks have been used to build ovens. Thanks to modern technologies It became possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, and brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for their home on their own, as this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. Installing such a stove will not be difficult, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For such work you need a small number of tools, namely:

  • Container for preparing the solution.
  • Emery tool.
  • Construction pencil.
  • Pliers.

Types of brick stoves

Currently there are individual species brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy homemade food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of brick. This type of stove is also called “Swedish”, and in some areas they are called “Dutch”.

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, opinions different people are separated. Some believe that the fireplace should stand alone, while others are quite happy with it built into the stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. Supplies. This stove warms up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick oven-grill is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to a regular barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick kilns belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for furnaces

Most sites that are dedicated to this topic set themselves the task of selling already finished project ovens. But what should people do who have decided to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create designs for heating stoves made of bricks?

To make your work much easier, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drawing up projects for absolutely all types of brick kilns. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Building a stove with your own hands)

  1. Economical.
  2. Ability to retain heat for a long time.
  3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
  4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
  5. Easy to use.
  6. Ease of maintenance.
  7. Durability.
  8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of a furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it is adjacent to the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect the service life of the home fireplace. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combined stove should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the fireplace stove should be located with a fireplace in the living room.

Preparation of the solution

Next you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. At the same time, it must be pre-sifted, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick stove for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay solution guarantees the durability of the stove.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be mixed thoroughly so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when you press on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to carry out dry laying.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to disastrous results.

To maintain the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal structure, correctness of seams and horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay a stove)

Construction of the furnace

Before you start using the brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay releases.

When laying a brick, you need to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be no less than 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For more reliable fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After this, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will dry completely only after 15 days. The disappearance of all damp traces indicates that the stove is ready for use.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the location, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing material is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for waterproofing. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After this, the sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. The inspection is carried out at the building level.

In order not to make a mistake with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. At this point, the most important row can be considered ready.

After this, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of solution and a blower door is installed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare to form the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is placed on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the rear wall are laid without using mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called ejection wells.

A little later, the combustion door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with asbestos cord and then secured with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And from the next row the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Layout and laying of brick kilns

This will allow for a more durable ligation of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent smoke from passing into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be connected to a metal pipe. If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

Upon completion of work, it is cleared through the expulsion brick inner part stoves from clay and water.

A piece cut from polyethylene material. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. At this point, the brick oven with stove is ready. We must not forget that it can only be used after it is completely dry.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the design of a brick furnace, in cross-section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help lay out brick ovens for the home

  1. Laying red stove bricks.
  2. Laying refractory (fireclay) bricks.
  3. Fire door.
  4. Blower door.
  5. Grate.
  6. Metal tank for hot water.
  7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
  8. Smoke valve.

A drawing of the furnace showing its overall dimensions.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant brick. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15...20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed behind the firebox, at the level of the grate.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which heaped stones are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material Specification:

  • red brick, 65 x 120 x 250 (mm) – 181 (pcs.)
  • refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) – 72 (pcs.)
  • clay – 60 (kg)
  • refractory clay – 35 (kg)
  • sand – 32 (kg)
  • smoke valve – 140 x 270 (mm)
  • fire door – 250 x 205 (mm)
  • blower door – 250 x 135 (mm)
  • cast iron grate – 250 x 252 (mm)
  • water tank – 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
  • stone hopper – 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
  • square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15...20 (mm)

Masonry of a heater stove for a bathhouse designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakina.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is laid at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the ash door, begin laying refractory bricks, and strictly follow the rules for tying the bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. Lay the blower door with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. Place the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5...8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is covered with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bunker for stones.

Drawing of a metal bin for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17th row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18th row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are discussed in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the design of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that it can create simple stove made of brick, even made with your own hands. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick kilns

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling wood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is environmentally friendly pure material

, which means that when operating the heating device you don’t have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

  • Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:
  • a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
  • a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
  • ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
  • a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

  • fast surface heating;
  • possibility of using several types of fuel;
  • low operating costs;
  • eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
  • especially soft, comfortable warmth;
  • the air in the room is not dehydrated;
  • wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

  • heating devices;
  • cooking units;
  • combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

  1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

    The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

  2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

    The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

  3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

    A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

  4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

    Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

  1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then a better option than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
  2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
  3. A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
  4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
  5. Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

  • Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
  • 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
  • From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
  • From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
  • 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the quantity required material It is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

  • selection of tools and necessary materials;
  • determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
  • arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
  • making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

  1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
  2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
  3. Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
  4. Pliers.
  5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
  6. Trowel (trowel).
  7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
  8. Lead scriber.
  9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
  10. Joining.
  11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
  12. Sieve.
  13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

  1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
  2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
  3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
  4. Grate.
  5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
  6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
  7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
  8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

  1. Sand.
  2. Crushed stone.
  3. Reinforcement mesh.
  4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
  5. Cement.
  6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides exterior finishing walls, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

  • from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If non-insulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
  • a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
  • the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. WITH protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
  • a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the stove is being built in a finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle zone It is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement laitance through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. At a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to the classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

  1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
  2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

    Installing a blower door

  3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
  4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

    The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

  5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

    In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

  6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

    Installation of the combustion door

  7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. Vertical walls The fireboxes are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.

    To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

    Laying vertical channels

  8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

    To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

  9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

    The firebox is separated from external walls basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

  10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
  11. Before covering the cooking niche on it side walls lay steel strips that will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
  12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
  13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
  14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
  15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
  16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
  17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
  18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    Installation of furnace valves

  19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
  20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. To do this, use as mineral insulation, and expanded clay. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as much as possible large area surfaces. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use a hob and a water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in warm time of the year. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it of ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find helpful material with cleaning instructions and minor repairs brick kilns: .

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is not only possible experienced craftsmen, but also for green beginners. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe work for many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (thanks to draft and constant renewal of air in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and warm the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very good for health.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all instructions, follow masonry technology, monitor the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the stove is in the center of the house.

  • Heating;
  • For cooking (predecessors of modern stoves);
  • Cooking and heating (combination of the two previous models);
  • Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

It is advisable to carry out construction in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: 220 bricks, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, we must build a foundation. We select the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and level groundwater. We wait for the foundation to completely harden and begin construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended to lay out the stove without mortar as a practice to avoid mistakes in the future. We will number the rows along the course of the laying for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak the bricks in water.

  1. We lay out the first two rows according to the drawing, continuous. To do this you will need 10 bricks for each row.
  2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we attach it to wire and special metal fasteners).
  3. 4: we build this row, checking the order, building up the walls.
  4. 5: building brick floor above the ash door, we lay the grate (don’t forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate to the brickwork, pour sand into the gap).
  5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the combustion door. We build the sixth row, clamping the door fastening with bricks.
  6. The seventh and eighth row - we build up the walls, observing the order, again checking the drawing.
  7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating a ceiling above it. In this row we begin to build a smoke collector and finish it by the eleventh row.
  8. To separate the cooking area and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on edge. We fix the cast iron hob(row number 12).
  9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row we lay out the bricks “on edge”. We cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
  10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
  11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we install a cleaning door and build up the walls of the oven.
  12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
  13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace by tying the previous row).
  14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
  15. After this, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we carry out the masonry according to the drawing. In rows 27 and 28 we leave space between the bricks to clean the oven.
  16. Then we completely cover the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
  17. From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and take the chimney to the street.

How to light a brick stove with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If there are any, cover them with a clay solution. We clean the stove from combustion products. We prepare the firewood. We warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the ash door ajar for air access. To ensure even burning of the firewood, stir it with a poker as it burns. It is optimal to add additional firewood after the formation of the first coals.

Making a wood-burning stove for the home: Instructions for building a brick stove

This stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of ​​30-40 sq.m.

The stove has three smoke channels located vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we purchase:

  • solid ceramic bricks grade M175 - 400 pieces;
  • fireproof bricks – 20 pieces (ШБ8);
  • two-burner cast iron stove 70x40 cm;
  • valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
  • fire door 27x30 cm;
  • 2 blower doors 15x16 cm;
  • masonry tools (trowels, containers for mortars, etc.).

We build a foundation for the furnace and begin laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it determines the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is no more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fireproof cutting.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install the ash door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future we will line the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we fasten the cleaning door and form the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we cover the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we overlap the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see two vertical smoke channels of 12x12 cm being formed.

Let's designate the left channel as number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one as number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the stove in winter). The dimensions of the release channel are 25X12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form the channels and install the combustion door.

Eighth row: we tie row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the oven.

We install the summer valve. If it is opened, the smoke will flow directly into the chimney without overheating the room. If the valve is closed, the flue gases will enter channel number 3 and travel along a long path, heating the entire furnace structure and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking cover of the fire door.

Tenth row: close the combustion door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here the transition of flue gases from the second channel to the first will occur when firing in winter mode.

We cut out slots for the grate from fireclay bricks and place them inside the oven. We insulate the back wall with mineral wool.

Despite the development of modern heating technologies, brick kilns are quite often used for heating a house, and this is understandable - they not only effectively heat the home, But and give a feeling of comfort and home.

Stove heating has a number of advantages, thanks to which wood-burning brick stoves have not lost their popularity for several centuries. The most important advantage- the ability of ceramic bricks, from which stoves are made, accumulate and release heat for a long time.

At the same time, radiant energy useful for the human body is released into the space, giving a feeling of warmth and comfort. With regular heating during the cold season, the house is always warm and dry, and natural ventilation is formed due to the stove draft. In hot weather, the stove, on the contrary, cools the rooms by removing excess heat into the ground and air through the foundation and chimney.

In addition to creating a comfortable microclimate, a brick oven can provide additional functions, the availability of which depends on the design:

  • cooking - boiling, frying, stewing and baking;
  • drying clothes, shoes, food;
  • heating beds for sleeping;
  • the opportunity to admire the open flame.

Furnaces that provide several functions are called combined. These types of stoves include fireplace stoves, as well as several popular basic models, including the Russian stove.

U stove heating there is also flaws, these include inability to effectively heat remote rooms. Therefore, in large houses, they usually install several stoves with separate or combined chimneys or combine stove heating with other types of heating.

In compact houses consisting of one or several rooms, the stove is usually located in the center, so that its walls are located in all rooms. The hob and oven are placed on the kitchen side, the stove bench is in the bedroom or children's room, and the open fireplace insert is in the living room or dining room.

Review of brick kilns

The most popular and time-tested basic designs are widely used by stove makers: they make small adjustments to them, adjusting the size and functionality to the customer’s wishes. However, the principle of their operation remains the same, so all brick stoves can be divided into several groups.

Video: DIY masonry master class

It is distinguished by its massiveness, large dimensions and wide functionality.. It consists of an open firebox, which in some cases is closed with a damper, as well as long smoke channels running along all the walls of the stove and heating them well. Sometimes a Russian stove is equipped with another firebox with a hob.

, in addition to heating, allows:

  • prepare a variety of foods - boil, fry, stew, bake;
  • dry clothes and shoes;
  • warm a bed or bed used for sleeping and resting.

The efficiency of the Russian stove is not too high - up to 60%, in addition, its firebox requires certain skills. Moreover, it is necessary to heat a Russian stove regularly in winter, avoiding interruptions and cooling the body of the stove. With periodic heating, condensation forms in a cooled stove, the brick absorbs it and cracks the next time it cools and freezes.

In the summer, the Russian stove is heated regularly or periodically for cooking, while using the “summer” mode, directing the smoke using a damper directly into the chimney. The body of the stove does not heat up.

Advantages of the Russian stove:

  • multifunctional, solves a whole range of problems;
  • with regular heating in the cold season, it creates an even microclimate in the house without temperature fluctuations;
  • decorates the house and gives it a unique national flavor.

Flaws:

  • large weight and dimensions - the construction of a massive foundation is required;
  • large volume of materials for masonry, high cost of construction;
  • complex maintenance, the need to regularly clean the ducts and chimney with your own hands;
  • not very high efficiency.
It is advisable to build a Russian stove in a house for permanent residence, if there is free space and financial capabilities.

Dutch

The Dutch oven is a fairly popular design of heating stoves, sometimes they are equipped with a hob. This is a channel-type stove - for efficient heating of the walls, it is equipped with smoke channels with a vertical arrangement. Passing through them, the smoke completely burns out and transfers heat to the brick.

The design feature of the Dutch oven is its small footprint, which makes it popular among summer residents and owners small houses. Moreover, the stove can be made to any height, so it can successfully heat two floors. The shape of the stove also varies from square and rectangular to round, but in any case its height is much greater than its width, so the Dutch stove is often compared to a column.

Advantages of the “Dutch”:

  • savings on space and materials - it requires two to three times less bricks than a Russian stove, and the cost of its construction is significantly lower, it can be easily folded with your own hands;
  • The Dutch oven has rather thin walls and warms up quickly;
  • it can be heated after long breaks, immediately bringing it to full power;
  • with modest dimensions, the “Dutch” can heat a house with an area of ​​up to 70 square meters.

However, it also has disadvantages:

  • Its efficiency is low - about 40%;
  • the optimal operating mode is smoldering, which is why the “Dutch oven” is sometimes called a brick oven long burning;
  • to ensure good draft, cleaning the stove from ash and soot should be done regularly;
  • If you don’t close the view after firing, the stove instantly cools down, so it requires close attention and skill in heating.
A Dutch oven is great for heating a cottage or not. big house, including with a second or attic floor, and it can be equipped with a stove, oven or water tank.

Swedish

The Swedish stove has a more versatile design compared to the Dutch stove, and its efficiency is much higher despite its compact size.

A standard Swedish stove is multifunctional; it has a hob, an oven, and two niches for drying shoes and clothes, and some craftsmen complement the Swedish stove with a fireplace or a bed.

This is a duct-type stove, which also implements the principle of a bell-type stove - afterburning of flue gases under the arch of the firebox. The stove effectively heats two adjacent rooms, usually a kitchen and a room; a Swede cannot cope with heating a large house.

  • Advantages of the “Swedish”:
  • fast warm-up;
  • efficient fuel combustion;
  • the special design of the channels allows the lower part of the stove to be heated, making the floors warm;
  • the ability to prepare various dishes;
  • in the niches located on top it is convenient to dry vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as reheat food;
  • You can also dry clothes and shoes in them;

If desired, you can build a heat exchanger into the stove and heat water for household needs.

  • Disadvantages of the "Swedish":
  • for laying highly heated elements, it is necessary to use fireclay bricks, which increases the cost of its construction;
  • to avoid heat loss through the lower part of the stove, you need to make good thermal insulation;
It is not recommended to completely cool the stove in the cold season, since igniting a cold, damp stove leads to gradual destruction of the masonry. The Swede is suitable for small houses with permanent residence or as additional source

Bell-shaped

Photo: bell furnace
One of the most modern developments is . Their difference is the ability to heat up evenly from all sides and retain heat for a long time. Unlike ducted stoves, bell-type or dome stoves do not have winding, narrow channels, so they are no less susceptible to the deposition of solid particles and narrowing of the chimney.

The principle of their operation is as follows: smoke from the firebox rises up, under the hood, where it lingers until it cools, after which it descends down the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of hoods in which the smoke gradually cools, so the efficiency of such stoves is very high.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

  • simple design and small amount of material required for masonry, low price;
  • the stove can be heated from a cold state, and it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
  • if you forget to close the damper, the stove will not cool down like a Dutch oven, thanks to the so-called gas view, which prevents reverse draft;
  • if desired, it can be equipped with a hob and heat exchanger;
  • Even a novice stove maker can build such a stove with his own hands.

This stove has virtually no disadvantages, which is why it is very popular among summer residents and owners of country houses.

Bell-type stoves - great choice for a summer house, a country house, a cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, it can heat several rooms at once, including on two floors.

Long-burning stoves made of bricks - is it possible?

Any homeowner, faced with stove heating, tries to reduce labor costs, including the time spent heating the stove. Therefore, many are interested in the possibility build a brick stove with a long burning mode.

However this impossible for several reasons. The long-burning mode implemented in industrial metal stoves involves slow smoldering of wood, which releases a large amount of smoke containing carbon monoxide. Industrial stoves equipped with a long-burning mode have a sealed firebox, so fumes cannot enter the room.

In addition, to ensure slow smoldering of firewood, it is necessary to limit the flow of air into the firebox. In brick stoves this can be done by covering the vent, but it is inconvenient to regulate the air supply in this way.

Partially, the long-burning mode can be implemented in the “Dutch” and Russian stoves. But you shouldn’t rely on the effectiveness of this method; it’s better to choose a design brick stove, allowing you to retain heat for a long time, or purchase - their price is lower than that of brick models, and the efficiency is almost as good as them.

Basic masonry techniques

Having made a decision, the first thing you need to do is choose a design that meets your needs, find an ordering diagram and a description of the masonry, after which you can start purchasing material and purchased elements. Laying a brick stove requires knowledge of basic work techniques.

  • A brick oven requires a foundation, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the oven floor by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, or made of concrete blocks or rubble stone. The main requirement that must be observed is that the foundation for the stove should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise seasonal shifts in the soil may cause damage to the stove or pipe.
  • To lay a stove with your own hands, two types of bricks are used: red solid brick made of ceramics and fire-resistant fireclay, yellow in color. The most heated surfaces are laid from fireclay bricks - the firebox, smoke ducts, and a fire-resistant masonry mortar based on fireclay clay is used. The price of these materials is higher than that of ordinary bricks, so fireclay is used only where necessary. All other elements of the stove and the chimney are made of ceramic bricks, and a solution based on stove red clay or a purchased composition that includes heat-resistant cement is required.
It is imperative to maintain a gap of about 5 mm between fireclay and ceramic masonry to compensate for the different temperature deformations of these materials.
  • Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are installed in accordance with the diagram. The doors are secured using annealed steel wire at least 30-40 cm long. One end of it is inserted into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is secured between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for the different temperature expansion of brick and cast iron, asbestos fabric or cord is used.
  • The chimney of a brick stove is usually also made of brick, but an industrial ceramic block chimney can also be used. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable draft, and does not clog.
  • To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined with finishing stone, clinker, or tiles. The finishing gives the stove not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from the harmful effects of water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is slightly higher, its service life is significantly increased.

Video: DIY stove laying

Choosing the right stove design and high-quality masonry is the key to its long and safe operation . A wood-burning brick stove, built with your own hands, will decorate any home; moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.



 
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