Cherry - planting and care in open ground. Sweet cherries - features of growing in the middle zone How to plant cherries in the middle zone


Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in middle lane- in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different sizes, tastes and colors of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

  • Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
  • Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
  • Late flowering. It allows you to get away from the returning cold.
  • Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all the factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick shortened petioles with three to four flowers white. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Name Ripening time Weight Color Taste Tree height Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia mid-early large, 8 g Yellow-pink dessert average No
Fatezh Early July 4 g Rose red dessert average Yes
Bryansk pink End of July 4-5 g pink speckled sweet average winter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery Chkalov Early July 9 g raspberry excellent dessert medium height winter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
Veda July 4-5 g dark red the pulp is dense, sweet low-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, rounded Yes
Olenka early Up to 10 g red to black dessert stunted increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky June 4-5 g Red to black sweet and sour tall winter-hardy
Revna mid-late 5 g Bordeaux sweet Medium height winter-hardy
Homeland June July 6 g Bordeaux sweetish Medium height very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Gold June July 6 g yellow sweet with honey aftertaste low-growing Yes

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until the onset of warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and cover them from sunburn with plywood, boards, and non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove top part to the south, with its roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

  • During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
  • Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
  • Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

  • remove “soaked” roots;
  • trim very long root ends;
  • cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
  • tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings have been dealt with, you need to determine favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high groundwater levels, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits
are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

  • humus - 3 buckets;
  • ash – 1 l;
  • superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
  • potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during autumn planting to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, tie the plant to a support and, stepping back 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

  • The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
  • In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened - for reflection sun rays and for disease prevention purposes.
  • During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
  • For the first 2-3 years, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
  • Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, the risk of freezing disappears. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:


It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

Cherry - growing and care in central Russia

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the culture.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and Moscow region good harvests They produce the following varieties: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

  • Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
  • The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. The bark of a healthy plant is smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If root system The seedling is very dry - when cut, the light brown core is visible; the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop well and bear fruit on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing spring planting in open ground - late April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. Fertile layer surface soil is tilted in one direction, and deep soil in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvest

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers(superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring they carry out sanitary pruning, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries as preventive measures They use early spring (during the swelling of the buds) spraying with a urea solution. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of iron sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiosis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Young seedlings need shelter. Don't wrap them around artificial materials(lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Bottom line

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Choose the sunniest place for your cherries that is protected from northern winds. Buy seedlings from a nursery or specialty market. Plant early in spring. If you fulfill these three conditions, then successful cultivation cherries are guaranteed.

The best time to plant cherries is early spring(until the buds swell). On the May holidays, when, as a rule, the buds are already blooming, trees cannot be planted. Such new plants get very sick and do not take root well. It is undesirable to plant cherries in the fall due to the danger of freezing of strong annual growths, which are sometimes more than a meter in one- or two-year-old seedlings.

We have already mentioned that all northern cherries are self-sterile, so for pollination, 2-3 trees of different varieties must be planted on the site. Contrary to some recommendations, cherries may not be good pollinators for cherries.

Purchase and acquisition of cherry seedlings

Purchase cherry seedlings better in autumn, since it is at this time that there is a rich selection of varieties. They need to be buried for the winter and planted directly in the mud in early spring (April).

When buying planting material, remember that all winter-hardy cherry varieties were obtained by grafting. It is not difficult to detect on the stem. Do not forget that trees grown from seeds do not retain varietal qualities and may have small, tasteless berries.

Both annual and biennial cherry seedlings are equally suitable for planting. The main thing is that they have a well-developed root system. The height of one-year-olds should be 70-80 cm, two-year-olds - about a meter.

After purchase, the roots should be wrapped in a damp cloth and film on top. In this form, the seedlings can easily withstand transportation. Otherwise, the trees may suffer from dehydration.

However, even before purchasing seedlings, you need to prepare a place for planting cherries. You already know that it should be the warmest and lightest in the garden, protected from the northern winds. Cherry is also demanding on humidity, but does not tolerate stagnation of water even for a short period. Therefore, it cannot be planted in areas with close groundwater.

The soil should be fertile, loose, moisture-permeable, and of a light, medium-loamy or sandy loam type. When planting in spring, it is prepared in the fall. The structure of heavy clay, peaty or sandy soil is improved by adding clay or sand. At the same time, 8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost and 150-200 g of any complex mineral fertilizer per 1 m2 are added to the digging. If the soil is acidic, lime is added in late autumn (approximately 400-500 g/m2).

Planting holes are dug 60-80 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep at a distance of 3-4 m. The walls are made vertical (without narrowing downwards). A planting stake is driven into the bottom and a nutrient mixture from the top fertile layer of soil, 10-15 kg of humus, 50-60 g of potassium sulfate, 100-120 g of superphosphate is added. Nitrogen fertilizers and lime are not applied to avoid root burns. Fill the hole a third with the nutrient mixture, make a mound in the center and sprinkle it with fertile soil without fertilizers.

Before planting, inspect the seedlings. If they dry out a little during transportation, immerse them in water for 6-8 hours. In the hole, the seedling is placed on a mound and the roots are filled halfway, shaking so that there are no voids. Then pour out a bucket of water and fill it completely.

It should be planted so that the root collar is not buried. To do this, during planting, raise the seedling by 4-5 cm. Later, when the soil settles, the root collar will be at soil level. They compact the soil around the planted tree with their feet, make a hole with a roller and pour out another bucket of water. Afterwards, the hole is sprinkled with peat or humus. The seedling is tied to the stake with twine in the shape of a figure eight so that it does not sway in the wind.

To get it right plant cherries on his own personal plot and then boast of a rich harvest, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of features. Next, we will look at this in more detail.

How to choose seedlings?

Cherry berries are loved for their juiciness and brightness of taste. That is why many summer residents dream of planting at least one tree on their plot.

How to choose a high-quality seedling and then plant it? Let's try to figure it out:

  • You need to purchase seedlings in specialized garden stores or directly at the nursery itself.
  • A fruit tree must have a passport containing information about the variety, its care and planting method. If such a document is missing, you should not buy a seedling in this place.
  • The age of the seedling should not exceed 3 years.
  • There should be no visible damage, cracks or stains on the tree bark.
  • An important feature when choosing is the presence of kidneys. Their absence indicates that the seedling will not be able to take root.
  • The roots must have at least 3 branches, each 2 mm thick.
  • It is imperative to check for frostbite in the root system. To do this, make a small cut, and if the root structure has a brownish tint, then you should refuse to purchase such a seedling.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry is a very heat-loving tree, so choosing a place for planting must be taken with full responsibility and following a number of rules:

  1. First of all, you need to find on your site the sunniest place;
  2. The area should be slightly elevated, do not have drafts and are not blown by winds from the north side;
  3. If there is no elevated place in the garden, you can make it yourself, using the soil mound method;
  4. Soil for intensive growth of cherries and good fertility must be enriched with all necessary nutrients and microelements. Soil moisture should be moderate;
  5. Airy soil is ideal. Its ability to quickly warm up and transmit oxygen to the roots will have a beneficial effect on all life processes of the fruit tree;
  6. It is necessary to carefully ensure that the composition of the soil does not show any signs of clay and crushed stone., in such an environment the tree will never bear fruit;
  7. Stagnation of water near the root system can lead to its rotting or other cherry diseases, so when choosing a place for planting, you need to check the availability of groundwater;
  8. Cherry blossoms very vigorously and needs proper pollination, For good harvests, planting near another variety of this tree or next to a cherry is ideal.

When and how to plant?

Correctly determining the time of planting cherries will guarantee a large harvest and juicy fruits. In Russia, cherries are planted only in the middle zone, and seedlings must be grafted. Planting is carried out both in autumn and in spring.

If you decide to plant a tree in the fall, then it is necessary to treat the roots. This is done by cutting off areas with a highly branched root system that does not completely fit into the hole. If the seedling has dried out in some places, then after pruning it must be provided with a sufficient amount of moisture and placed in a bucket of water for a day, only after that carry out planting work.

It is better to buy seedlings that are planned to be planted in the spring in mid-autumn. During this period, the choice of planting material is simply enormous. The purchased tree will need to be buried before the arrival of spring.

To do this, make a hole in the soil half a meter, lay the seedling at an angle of 45%, in a southerly direction, and cover it well with soil. It is necessary to water it well so that the soil fits tightly to the roots, which will prevent the possibility of cold penetration.

Step-by-step instruction



Planting cherries is carried out in several stages:

  1. It is necessary to dig holes about a meter wide with a 50-centimeter depth.
  2. If several varieties are planted at the same time, the distance between seedlings should be at least 2 m.
  3. When digging a hole, the soil should be divided. Throw the top layer into one pile, put the bottom one in the other direction.
  4. A special stake is installed in the middle of the hole, which is filled in a circle from a pile with the top layer of soil.
  5. From above, the resulting mound is filled with a solution of universal fertilizer.
  6. Next, make a small mound of fertile soil and plant the seedling evenly.
  7. The seedling is completely backfilled, taking into account the visibility of the root collar by 3 cm.
  8. You need to edge the seedling with an earthen roller, pour 20 liters of water into the middle.
  9. To prevent moisture from evaporating, the soil around the tree is sprinkled with peat.
  10. The seedling is secured to the stake so that the trunk is not overtightened.

Rules of care

For healthy growth of a fruit tree, intensive flowering, proper pollination and good fruit production, proper care will be required. Cherries will require the following conditions:

  1. It is necessary to water the tree as soon as it becomes necessary. But no more than 3 times a year;
  2. Before watering, the soil must be thoroughly loosened, and upon completion of the process, it must be properly covered with mulch;
  3. The next year after planting, the cherries will begin to gain strength, which will require a large amount of fertilizer. Therefore, fertilizing should be done both in spring and autumn;
  4. In the second year of the tree’s life, it will also be necessary to remove weeds and weed the soil within a radius of one meter from the trunk. Every year the radius of land cultivation increases;
  5. It is good to plant any berry bushes in the spaces between the seedlings;
  6. From the second year of life of the cherry tree, it is necessary to begin the formation of the crown. As soon as the tree begins to bear its first fruits, it is necessary to cut off annual branches that are more than 60 centimeters in length;
  7. For an older tree, branches are pruned for the purpose of rejuvenation, with mandatory pest control procedures;
  8. Since the cherry branches are arranged in tiers, it is recommended to periodically thin them, leaving the crown in 3 tiers;
  9. As soon as the tree reaches a height of more than 3 m, the central wire branch is cut off to a branch located outside. This method will help maintain the intensive growth of the tree and significantly increase fruiting.

Transfer

Cherry trees do not tolerate transplantation very well and recover with difficulty. Therefore, this issue must be approached with great caution and a number of nuances taken into account:

    Trees that are no more than 4 years old can be transplanted.

  • The process is carried out with the onset of the first warming, ideally this is mid-March, before the release of juice begins.
  • To carry out a high-quality transplant, the seedling is dug up in mid-autumn, carefully so as not to damage the root and making sure that some of the soil remains on the surface of the entire root system.
  • The seedling is buried in a horizontal position for the winter to prevent damage to the bark by winter cold.
  • It is necessary to find an area with sufficient snow to provide adequate protection.
  • The root system needs to be processed by removing its damaged parts.
  • The hole for planting must first be fertilized with humus.
  • After replanting, the soil must be thoroughly compacted, pour 4 buckets of water under the trunk and cover with peat.
  • Once the replanting process is completed, it is necessary to shorten the branches a little so that the roots take root faster.
  • Installing a stake, followed by securing the tree, will provide reliable support in the event of strong winds.
  • If you urgently need to transplant enough mature tree, you must remember that the pit must be at least 1 meter deep and the same width.

    It cannot be said that such an undertaking will be crowned with success, but it is worth trying to help the tree take root after transplantation, and provide it with 40 liters of water every 3 days.

Crop protection

In order to increase beneficial features cherry fruits and increase productivity, it is necessary to minimize pest attacks, as well as the possibility of infection with various diseases.

Unfortunately, many gardeners miss these points in the early stages of their development, which invariably leads to a reduction in yield by 40%, and in advanced stages, to complete destruction all fruits. From this we can draw an unambiguous conclusion that the healthy functioning of a fruit tree is impossible without proper protection from pests.

To choose a good and effective pesticide, you need to be at least a little informed about the vulnerability of a particular pest to a particular product.

Diseases and pests

The main enemies of cherries are pests such as cherry aphids, cherry flies, cherry flies, and leaf rollers.

Cherry aphid begins to damage cherries with the appearance of the first buds. From the eggs laid in the fall, larvae begin to appear, whose life continues thanks to feeding on the sap from the leaves. The foliage begins to hurt, turn black and, as a result, completely dries out.

Cherry fly capable of destroying almost the entire cherry crop. As soon as the cherry tree stops blooming, a new generation is reborn from the overwintered and surviving cherry fly pupae. The males are the first to start the destruction process, and after 2 weeks the almost centimeter-long females appear. Their diet includes the juice of unripe berries and flower nectar. Once the fly is properly fed, it lays eggs. To do this, she pierces the fruit in the area of ​​the stalk, where she places the egg. Fruits damaged by this fly are susceptible to premature rotting and shedding.

Tube screwer eats everything related to cherries. Its flowers, foliage, buds, ovaries and, finally, the fruits themselves. These pests lay eggs on the stone, immediately after the ovary period. The born larvae will feed at the expense of the kernel, which will significantly reduce the yield.

leaf roller not so dangerous for the fruit tree. They often damage buds and leaves, and can sometimes damage the bark. The most dangerous stage is when the caterpillar has 8 pairs of legs; such an adult leaf roller severely damages the foliage, eating it, wrapping it in a web and twisting it into a tube.

Cherries are most often sick false tinder And gray rot.

In the first case, the trunk is affected by a foreign wood core with a characteristic gray tint. The affected trunk becomes soft and loose, which leads to brittleness of the tree and subsequent death. To combat the disease, you need to treat the tree every year with a lime solution and increase its resistance to cold.

Gray rot turns all young cherry shoots into burnt brown areas. The fruits rot and their surface becomes covered gray coating, similar to mold. To avoid the spread of the disease, it is necessary to constantly remove rotten fruits. Nitrafenom or solution will also effectively cope with the problem.

Birds



Laziness in protecting cherries from birds is absolutely inappropriate; the main thing is to take action in time. The following methods will help:

  1. A special device that repels birds with ultrasound;
  2. Guns that simulate a real shot;
  3. Various variations of making a scarecrow;
  4. Fishnet;
  5. Spraying the tree with a protective substance.

Popular varieties

For any tree, the moment of choosing conditions for fruitful life is important. Therefore, the following varieties of cherries have become popular in central Russia:



Studying the literature on planting, becoming familiar with varieties and proper care will completely eliminate all questions related to how to plant cherries and will allow you to grow a luxurious fruit tree with high productivity.

Gone are the days when cherries were grown only in the southern regions. Now varieties have been bred that allow residents of the Moscow region and even Leningrad region enjoy berries from your garden.

  • Read about.

Choosing cherry varieties

When solving this important issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the flowering period of the tree and the fact that many varieties are self-sterile. That is, for good fruit setting, it is necessary to plant not one, but at least 2 trees of different varieties that would bloom at the same time. A photo will help you see what this beautiful tree looks like, although who hasn’t seen it in person...

In the southern regions, warmth sets in early, so flowering trees there are practically not affected by frost. In cooler areas, early ripening varieties may be susceptible to this problem as cherries bloom in the spring. But, if you want to taste the berries as early as possible, then, during frosts, you can cover the cherry trees with non-woven material, make smoke fires near them, etc.

  1. Homestead yellow. Fruitful, winter-hardy cherry. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is self-fertile.
  2. Orlovskaya amber. Winter hardiness is average, the variety has good yield, and is resistant to coccomycosis. The average weight of tasty, large yellow-pink fruits is 5.5 g.
  3. Iput has excellent winter hardiness, is resistant to coccomycosis, and is partially self-fertile. The fruits weigh 6–9 g, dark red, almost black in color. Growing Iput cherries is preferred by many gardeners.
  4. Raditsa. The fruits ripen very early. The variety is winter-hardy, high-yielding. To obtain fruits that are dark red in color, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby, since this variety is self-sterile. The tree is low-growing and has a compact crown.
  5. Chermashnaya has high winter hardiness. Fruits weighing up to four and a half grams are yellow in color. The berries are sweet and juicy. The variety is self-sterile and has good resistance to fungal diseases.
  6. The trees of the Ovstuzhenka cherry variety are low, with a spherical dense crown. The fruits weigh an average of 5 grams and are dark red in color. The variety is winter-hardy and productive.
Mid-season cherry varieties:
  1. Fatezh. Winter-hardy, high productive variety. The tree is medium-sized, self-sterile, with a spherical-spreading, drooping crown. The fruits are pink-red and shiny. The taste is sweet and sour.
  2. Pobeda is a productive variety that is resistant to fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is good. The fruits are large, excellent taste, red in color.
  3. The cherry variety Revna is winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, and has excellent resistance to coccomycosis. The fruits have a sweet taste, dark red, almost black, and do not crack when ripe.
Late ripening cherries, varieties:
  1. Tyutchevka is winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis. The tree is medium-tall with a spherical, semi-spreading crown. The fruits are dark red in color, large, weigh 5.5–6 g, and have excellent taste.
  2. Revna is a partially self-fertile variety, highly resistant to coccomycosis. The tree is pyramid-shaped and medium-sized. The fruits are almost black in color - dark burgundy, and have an excellent taste.
  3. Bryansk pink is one of the most late varieties. Resistant to diseases. In the fifth year it begins to bear fruit. The tree grows to medium size. The fruits are pink on the outside and light yellow on the inside, and do not crack.

Planting cherries

Like many fruit trees, cherries can be planted in autumn and spring. Each term has its advantages and slight disadvantages. In the spring, you need to have time to plant a cherry seedling before the heat sets in. In the middle zone it is the end of April. That is, the period is short. But in the fall it lasts longer. At this time, cherries are planted from the beginning of September to the end of October. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root before the onset of frost, then it will overwinter better.

It is important to choose the most optimal place in the garden. Since the cherry tree is a guest that came to us from the south, it is necessary to plant it where it will be warm. You need to choose a place that is not exposed to cold northern winds. It is better to place the seedling on the south side of other garden trees. Also, on the north side, the tree can be covered by the wall of a building or fence. The place for growing cherries should be well heated by the sun; shadows from other trees should not fall on it.

In the lowlands the tree will feel uncomfortable. Usually there is a high groundwater level, so the roots of the tree will become damp, and the tree itself may die.

Once you have decided on the location, you need to consider the timing of planting cherries. Even winter-hardy varieties cannot be planted if the air temperature is below 0°C. At the same time, when planting in spring, it is necessary to carry out work before the buds swell. Therefore, autumn planting is most optimal. However, if you purchased a young seedling with a closed root system, then it can be planted almost at any time - from the end of April to the end of October, but it is better to do this when there is no extreme heat, then the cherry will take root better.


The hole for the seedling is dug in advance, this will allow the soil to settle. It is made large - with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 70 cm. 2-3 buckets of well-ripened compost, humus, or a combination of these organic fertilizers are poured here. Minerals also need to be added. Pour 200 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of potassium sulfate into the hole. Mix mineral fertilizers with organic ones, shape the humus and compost into a mound. Place the seedling on it, straightening the roots. Drive a peg nearby and tie a tree to it.

Fill the hole with fertile turf soil. Carefully water the cherry seedling with 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Press this area with your foot, placing the sole perpendicular to the seedling - with the toe towards it. Make sure that the root collar is at soil level.

This completes the planting of cherries. Of course, it is better to carry it out in cloudy weather; if the morning after planting it is hot, cover the seedling with non-woven material. If you are planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between them.

Formative pruning of cherries

It is necessary to trim off excess branches and shape the tree annually, since cherries grow rapidly. This is done only in early spring, before the buds have yet opened.

Until the tree begins to bear fruit, its annual shoots are shortened annually by 1/5 of their height. When the cherry tree enters the fruiting stage, shortening pruning is stopped. Only branches that grow incorrectly are cut out - directed towards the crown, half of the shoot is removed if two branches form an angle of less than 50°. It is necessary to cut out diseased, dry branches.

To increase the yield, the following technique is used: the sharply growing branches are bent so that they are at an angle of 90° from the trunk. To do this, weights are hung on the branches of a young tree or the ends of the branches are tied to pegs driven into the ground.

Cherry care

It is imperative to weed the ground under the crown, since cherries do not like weeds. Gradually increase the diameter of the trunk circle. In the second year it should be 1 meter, after another 3 years 150 cm. This entire area should be cleared of weeds.

Cherries are watered and then fed three times a season. This should be done this way: first loosen the soil around the tree trunk, while simultaneously choosing weeds. Then, in several steps, water the tree with water heated in the sun, then water it with a nutrient solution.

During the initial period of bud break, 5–8 g of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the tree is watered with this fertilizer. You can notice this organic fertilizer by diluting 800 g of manure in 10 liters. water. Make sure that the fertilizer does not get on the root collar, otherwise it may rot.

The next step is to apply 2 mineral fertilizers to the cherries - the first - during the budding period, the second - at the beginning of fruit set. For this fertilizer, dilute 1 glass of ash and 30 g of double superphosphate in 10 liters. water.

For better pollination, you can spray the flowers with a sweet solution, placing 1 tbsp. l. liquid honey in 1 liter. water. Bees will flock to the smell, and the harvest will be plentiful.

In this article we will tell you how to properly plant cherries in the spring. Selecting a planting site and seedling, preparing the soil and planting cherries in the garden.

Cherry is a wonderful fruit tree. Cherries are loved by both adults and children. But few people know how to properly plant cherries in the spring, and a properly planted tree is the key to a rich harvest.

Choosing a landing site

First of all, you need to determine the place where you can plant cherries. This fruit tree is very heat-loving. Therefore, you need to choose a warm and sunny place, and protect the tree from the north wind.

These conditions will ensure high taste qualities berries Experienced gardeners It is advised to plant cherries before the buds on the trees begin to bloom, but you need to choose the moment when it is no longer cold outside. If you miss the moment of planting, you can destroy the seedling.

Particular attention should be paid to the depth of groundwater: at least one meter is recommended, otherwise the root system will rot, which will lead to disease and reduced yield.

Buying a seedling

It is necessary to choose the right seedling. Good seedling The cherry tree must be one to two years old and have a developed root system. It is advisable to buy planting material in specialized stores or nurseries, this guarantees its quality and compliance with the declared variety. Be sure to ask how the seedling was grown.

The budding method is preferable because cherry seedlings grown from seeds do not produce good berries. After a cherry seedling has been purchased, it needs to be prepared for transportation. It is best to wrap the roots of the seedling with a damp, soft cloth so that they do not dry out.

Soil preparation

Before planting a cherry seedling, you need to prepare the soil. To do this, you need to loosen and fertilize it in advance. Experienced gardeners advise thinking about this in the fall. That's when the soil will absorb required amount fertilizers and will be quite fertile.

Will play a big role in the spring melt water, which are absorbed into the ground after the snow melts, saturating it with moisture. Before planting, it is necessary to loosen the soil again and allow it to soak in oxygen.

Planting a seedling

Soil preparation is complete. You can proceed directly to planting the tree. To do this, it is advisable to follow the following sequence:

In order for the seedling to take root, it is necessary to dig a shallow hole with steep edges without narrowing towards the bottom.

Apply ready-made fertilizers, for example, potassium sulfide and superphosphate. Experts advise not to add other chemical additives, so as not to burn the roots of the young tree.

Pay attention to the condition of the seedling. If the tree has dried out during transportation, it is advisable to put it in water for several hours. During this time, the seedling will absorb the required amount of water.

Now it is important to remember the method of planting cherries. First you need to fill in half of the cherry root system, then you need to pour out a bucket of water and continue filling the hole with fertilized soil.

It is necessary to remember that cherries love moisture very much, but do not tolerate stagnation of water. If all requirements are met and properly cared for, the tree will grow well and delight you with tasty and juicy berries.

Fruit trees (cherry, apricot, peach and others) are particularly demanding of climatic conditions and soil.

Despite this, there are many varieties of stone fruits that do well not only in southern regions, but also in cooler climates. In central Russia, growing cherries is not at all difficult if you provide the tree with proper care.

Compliance with certain rules will help not only to get a healthy, strong tree, but also to increase its productivity. Thanks to large selection varieties of cherries, you can choose the most suitable for any climate zone.

Following the advice of care experts, growing this fruit tree won't cause much trouble. A few simple secrets will help you grow a magnificent cherry orchard and get an excellent harvest in just a few years.

When choosing seedlings for growing in a garden or country house, it is very important to pay attention to the zoning of variety and species. Southern varieties may not tolerate frost and die, so it is best to pay attention to breeding varieties.

Bred specifically for the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow, Tula, Ivanovo and other regions), cherry varieties have all the necessary qualities to obtain a good harvest.

Factors to pay attention to when purchasing a seedling:

  • Frost resistance level. The higher this indicator, the better.
  • Tallness. U low growing plants lower chance of freezing. These varieties are also characterized by high productivity.
  • Timing of flowering and fruit set. It is recommended to choose seedlings of not too early varieties. This reduces the risk of freezing during spring frosts.
  • The need for pollination. It is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties. Even when planting one plant, there is no need for cross-pollination, so you can get a good, abundant harvest.

Taking into account all the factors, as well as the characteristics of the soil and the size of the plot, you can decide on the most suitable varieties of cherries for growing in the garden.

"Adeline"

The medium-ripening variety is perfect for growing in small garden plots. The tree grows up to 3 meters in height, has a comfortable pyramidal crown and does not thicken. The productivity of "Adeline" is above average - a healthy adult tree produces up to 60 kg of juicy berries.

The advantage of this variety is its good winter hardiness and disease resistance. At good care Cherries very rarely get sick with coccomycosis and moniliosis. In dry summers it may be vulnerable to pests.

The first fruits appear in the 4th year of the seedling’s life. The yield will increase as the cherries mature to 45-60 kg. The heart-shaped berries have an average size weighing 5-6 g. The pulp is juicy red and easily separates from the seed.

The cherry variety "Adeline" takes root well in the Middle Zone and in the climate of the Central Black Earth Region. For planting, it is recommended to choose 2-3 year old seedlings - this will ensure their better survival rate and reduce the risk of contracting diseases from other fruit crops.

"Gronkavaya"

The medium-sized variety is characterized by high yield and increased resistance to disease. Excellent for growing in large gardens. The “Gronkavaya” cherry was bred by Belarusian breeders from the “Severnaya” variety.

The large, dark red fruits are quite shelf-stable and easily transported. Suitable for universal use.

Due to the fact that the variety calmly tolerates even very low temperatures, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone and other regions with cold climates.

Varietal characteristics and features:

  • High yield (up to 70 kg per mature tree);
  • Winter hardiness index - above average;
  • Early ripening, self-fertility, high disease resistance.

Care requirements:

  • Since the tree is tall with a spreading crown, it is recommended to grow on large areas. To obtain maximum yield, it is advisable to ensure good lighting and regular soil moisture.

"I put"

Growing "Iput" cherries in the middle zone and across Central region started in the early 90s. The variety was obtained by crossing the hybrid forms “Leningradskaya Chernaya”, “Pobeda” and “Zhabule No. 15”.

Thanks to excellent varietal characteristics and simple care, has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Medium-sized trees have high productivity and are capable of producing more than 90 kg of juicy berries.

Sweet cherries have large, juicy, dark red fruits. The stalk is short, thick, the stone is separated with part of the pulp. The average weight of berries is 6-7 g, can reach 9 g. The pulp is juicy, sweet, of medium density.

Caring for and growing cherries of this variety does not require special skills or conditions. Due to its high winter hardiness and resistance to coccomycosis, it is excellent for growing in the Middle Zone.

Planting seedlings

The place for planting cherry seedlings should be prepared in advance. A well-lit place, protected from drafts, is selected on the site. In the autumn, even before the onset of frost, a hole is dug 70 by 70 cm or more, depending on the growth of the selected variety.

It is advisable to plant several seedlings at once different varieties, but at the same flowering time, so that they are natural pollinators of each other.

The soil should be fertile, light, well permeable to moisture. The most suitable areas are with loamy or sandy soil. It is not advisable to plant any variety of cherries on clay or peaty soil!

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole prepared for planting to avoid stagnation of the inputs. A third of the hole is filled with a soil mixture of fertile soil and humus. In this form, the planting hole remains until spring - the most optimal time for planting cherries in the Middle Zone.

In early spring, when there is no longer any danger of frost, fertilizers are added to the hole and mixed well with fertile soil. 2-3 year old seedlings are planted so that the root neck protrudes several centimeters above ground level.

After planting the tree, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. For better survival of cherries, the top of the soil is covered with mulch.

Caring for young and mature trees

Young seedlings should be pruned immediately after planting (at approximately 100 cm height). From dormant buds to next season Side shoots will develop to form a crop.

In the 2nd year after planting, the tree is pruned by about 1/3, leaving only well-developed skeletal branches at a level of 90-110 cm. In the next season, the crown is formed depending on the plant variety.

Most an important condition The key to caring for cherries is proper watering. It is very important to provide the tree with moderate moisture so that it develops properly and to avoid the development of diseases.

Stagnation of moisture can be detrimental to the plant, so when groundwater is high, it is recommended to choose varieties with a small root system. Most optimal solution There will be columnar and ornamental trees.

Conclusion

  • Proper planting and caring for cherries may require additional effort. Cherry belongs to heat-loving plants, therefore, if necessary, the root system should be covered for the winter. To prevent the tree from dying, preference should be given to varieties that are not too early, frost-resistant.
  • Experienced gardeners know how cherries grow in different conditions and are able to provide the tree with proper care. For beginning gardeners, the first years of a plant’s life in a garden or garden plot will require some effort. To grow cherries in the conditions of the Middle Zone, give preference to self-fertile varieties with high stability to diseases.
  • Adult plants, just like young seedlings, require good and proper care. If you do not prune on time, do not apply fertilizers, or skip covering for the winter, the yield may be significantly reduced and the cherry may become diseased.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

  • Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
  • The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. The bark of a healthy plant is smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry—a light brown core is visible when cut—the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Cherries bear fruit well in a sunny area on the south side

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. The optimal time for spring planting in open ground is the end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, which can cause burns to the roots.

Preparing a planting hole for cherries

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Cherry trees are pruned in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventive measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of iron sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. You should not wrap them with artificial materials (lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Cherry is considered a fairly demanding plant in terms of light and heat. It is afraid of cold air and favors sunny places at higher elevations. The site must be protected from northeastern and northern winds. The best place For growing cherries there will be a south and southwest side of the buildings. She will also feel comfortable among mature trees.

Cherries prefers warm sandy loam fertile soils and grows very poorly on peat bog, heavy loamy, gley soils. It is worth noting that for growing cherries Acidic soils are completely unsuitable. Neutral, slightly alkaline (pH 7-7.3) and slightly acidic are much more suitable for her. Cherry does not tolerate stagnation of water, but at the same time it loves a large amount of moisture. Does not survive well in the presence of close groundwater.

1. Cherry varieties most suitable for central Russia

Breeders have created a fairly large number of cherry varieties that grow well and bear fruit in the middle zone. It includes the Moscow, Bryansk, Kaluga, Ryazan, Smolensk, Tula, Vladimir and Ivanovo regions.

1.1 Early ripening varieties of cherries:

Iput is a self-sterile variety whose pollinators are Revna, Raditsa, Bryanskaya rozovaya and Tyutchivka. It has high winter hardiness of flower buds. The fruits are very sweet and juicy and almost black in color. Their weight reaches almost 10 grams.

Raditsa. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.8 grams.

Sadko. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and rarely crack, reaching a weight of up to 8 grams. It has a dark red color.

1.2 Mid-early and mid-ripening varieties of cherries:

Revna. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7.8 grams.

Tyutchivka. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa, Revna and Ovstuzhenka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.4 grams. In the years since high humidity fruits may crack.

Astakhov's favorite. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. It is also considered partially self-fertile. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing more than 5 grams.

1.3 Late-ripening varieties of cherries:

Lena. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and obtusely heart-shaped, dark red in color, weighing up to 8 grams.

Bryanochka. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7 grams.

Bryansk pink. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, pink in color, weighing up to 5 grams.

All varieties begin to bear fruit 3-5 years after planting. They are also winter-hardy and resistant to coccomycosis and some other fungal diseases. For full fruiting, it is necessary to have at least 3 varieties of cherries in one area.

Fig.1 Cherry blossoms

2. Planting cherries

The best time for planting cherries It is early spring, until the buds open. Thanks to this, the seedling will have time to take root well and gain vitality to survive the first winter.

The planting hole should be dug 10-12 days before planting in the spring or prepared in the fall. The optimal depth is 60-75 cm, and the width is 70-80 cm. The dug-out fertile soil layer is mixed with humus and superphosphate (200 g) and potassium sulfate (100 g) are added to it. The hole is then filled with this mixture.

It is very important to remember that cherries do not tolerate deepening of the root collar. Therefore, when planting, it is worth raising it by 3-4 centimeters, because in the near future the soil will settle and the root collar will deepen a little.

After planting, you need to form a moat around the cherry seedling and water it generously with a bucket of water. It is advisable to re-water after a week.

Fig. 2 How to properly deepen the root collar of cherries

3. Cherry feeding

The first years after planting cherries there is no need to apply fertilizer, since everything necessary was placed in the hole along with the soil. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing begins in the 3rd year after planting. Superphosphate (40-60 g/m2) and potassium chloride (20-30 grams) are added once every 3 years when digging the trunk circle no later than mid-September.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied every spring, starting from the 3rd year after planting cherries. These include ammonium nitrate(20 g/m2) or urea (15 g/m2). You can learn more about mineral fertilizers here.

Organic matter should be added once every 2 years, 3-4 kg per m2. This is best done in the spring when loosening the tree trunk circle. If you apply these fertilizers later, the growth of new shoots may stop, and they will not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

Also, after fruiting, you can sow green manure plants around the tree trunk, which, together with the soil, will be dug up in the spring and, thus, all the necessary substances will begin to nourish the tree much earlier, especially considering the fact that they will begin to overheat under the snow. You can find out more interesting information about green manure plants from this article.

4. Pruning cherries and crown formation

Carry out crown formation cherries It is advisable in early spring, before the buds swell. At the same time, one should not forget about treating all cuts with garden varnish. This must be done in order to prevent gum formation, which can lead to infection. various kinds diseases and even death of the tree. Also, don’t forget about whitewashing the tree trunk in spring, and you can find out how to do it correctly here.

The cherry tree has a natural crown shape - from pyramidal to round, but when pruned it is most often made into a sparsely tiered crown with a trunk height of 60 to 80 centimeters. The first pruning of shoots should be carried out a year after planting cherries.

During this period, a crown of 5-6 skeletal branches (first order) is formed. In the first tier, 3 branches are left, 2 of which can be placed adjacent, and the third is 20-25 centimeters higher than the first two.

In the third year, it is advisable to lay the second tier of skeletal branches at a distance of at least 60 cm from the upper branch of the first tier. In the same year, 2 second-order branches should be formed on each first-order shoot. To form second-order branches, it is necessary to shorten the first-order branches by approximately 20 centimeters after their length reaches 70 centimeters. Second-order branches are located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from the trunk and from each other.

The third tier is usually formed from a single shoot at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the second tier. In this case, it is recommended to cut the central conductor above the branch of the third tier no earlier than a year after its formation.

Cherry is still not widespread in central Russia. To successfully cultivate cherries, one cannot neglect agrotechnical rules, which, unfortunately, not everyone knows about. We will talk about the intricacies of growing this southern woman.

The most typical question: Why do cherries grow well but not bear fruit? In this case, there can be two options: either the cherry tree grows well, but does not bloom, or the tree grows and blooms, but does not produce a harvest. In the first case, there can be many reasons: insufficient age of the tree, imbalance of soil nutrition, “fatification” due to excess nitrogen fertilizers, freezing of flower buds (if there were any), etc.

Cherry in the middle zone 2

The most common reason is insufficient lighting due to improper placement in the garden or dense plantings. You need to know that cherries are a fast-growing, large and very light-loving plant. For its normal development there must be free space of no less than 5 x 3 m (in extreme cases 4 x 3 m). Thickened planting can also lead to a decrease in potential winter hardiness, especially flower buds.

A common mistake is the desire to plant cherries closer to the house or outbuilding in the hope that they will protect the tree from the effects of winter cold (1). This also leads to a lack of sunlight and improper formation plants. As a result, it stretches upward, the lower part of the trunk becomes bare due to the dying off of the branches, and fruiting begins only in the upper part of the crown, when it manages to reach the light above the roof. It is difficult to harvest from such a height, and the birds get it.

The lack of harvest during abundant flowering is most likely due to the fact that there were no pollinating varieties nearby or there was bad weather during the fruit set period (rains, spring frosts and etc.). If the weather is favorable and the tree blooms every year but does not bear fruit, then the reason is probably the absence of a pollinator. It is important to know that cherries do not self-fertile varieties, it requires mandatory cross-pollination. In this regard, it is necessary to provide for the presence of at least two, and preferably three or four varieties on the site for mutual cross-pollination. You can get by with one only if other varieties grow nearby. The main thing is that their flowering dates coincide.

If there is no place for a second tree, then it is better to plant only one, but spaciously growing tree, and make several grafts of other varieties into its crown. This is enough for pollination. It is better to plant a fast-growing variety as the main one. Fatezh(2), which is the most reliable for central Russia both in terms of winter hardiness and yield. Not as tall as other varieties, the tree with a strong spreading crown (branches extend from the trunk at right or obtuse angles) in July will delight you with tasty fruits weighing 4–4.5 g. They are good both fresh and for various preparations. Can be grafted into the crown Chermashnaya(with yellow berries of dessert flavor that ripen earlier than others), etc. A set of different varieties will allow you to create a conveyor according to ripening dates from the end of June and almost the whole of July.

By the way, vaccinations can be done by cuttings in the spring and by budding (for stone fruits this method is preferable). It is carried out at the end of July - beginning of August in the branches of young plants as thick as a pencil or a little more.

Gardeners often ask why two trees planted bloom profusely, but do not produce a harvest. In this case, the reason may lie in the selectivity of the pollinator. For example, according to Doctor of Agricultural Sciences M. Kanshina, the author of many varieties of cherries, such selectivity is typical for varieties Raditsa And Bryansk pink. However, most varieties pollinate well with each other while flowering at the same time. Two growing nearby and blossoming tree are left without a harvest, most likely if they were of the same variety, although they could be sold as different. Varietal identity is determined by leaves: one leaf is taken from the middle part of shoots of identical development from each tree and compared. For identical varieties, all the characteristics (for example, jagged edge of the leaf, shape of the base and tip of the leaf blade, etc.) are the same. There are many such signs, but they require professional knowledge. However, I will give my author’s hint: cherry leaves have glands called nectaries. They are located at the base of the leaf blade and on the leaf petiole; they look like small tubercles about 1–3 mm in size. The most important thing is that each variety has its own nectary color, which basically matches the color of the fruit. In yellow fruits ( Chermashnaya) they are light yellow (3), in varieties with pink or yellow fruits with a reddish blush (Fatezh) – pinkish, in red-fruited ones ( Sinyavskaya) – red (4).

Of course, the signal characteristics will be the same in different varieties with the same fruit color. But here we must remember that the leaves of all varieties are necessarily different.

I hope that such a professional tip will help you purchase seedlings of different varieties. True, for this, the plants must have leaves, which are removed (sniffed) before the autumn digging, leaving them only on the tops. However, this is quite enough to conduct a comparative inspection.

Sometimes gardeners follow the wrong recommendations and harm their trees. Once at a lecture, an amateur gardener said that in order to speed up the fruiting of a large cherry tree, he bent back the branches and nailed their ends to the trunk. The result was disastrous: giant shoots grew on the branches, and resin growths formed on the trunks near the nails, and then the bark cracked. However, fruiting never occurred.

The recommendation gleaned by the gardener from one of the books turned out to be wrong in general, and even more so for cherries. With such bending, an arched curvature of the branch occurs. At the highest points of this arc, vertically growing wen shoots always grow, outstripping other branches in terms of growth strength. This reaction to too sharp a bend is characteristic of all tree crops. Bending should be carried out before horizontal level branches.

Cherry - growing and care in central Russia

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

  • Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
  • The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. The bark of a healthy plant is smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry - a light brown core is visible when cut, you can revive the seedling. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. The optimal time for spring planting in open ground is the end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvest

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventive measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of iron sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Young seedlings need shelter. You should not wrap them with artificial materials (lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Bottom line

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.



 
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