How to prepare beds for next season. Autumn garden. Preparing the beds for winter. Useful tips for beginners. Soil preparation in open ground
Autumn is just approaching and the harvest has not yet been fully harvested. There is still a little time left and the beds will remain completely empty. This means it’s time to prepare the site for the upcoming season. This is done in order to prepare the ground, to provide it with necessary elements For better cultivation crops in next year and, accordingly, so that the harvest turns out to be rich and healthy. But we will tell you exactly what procedures and measures need to be carried out in this article.
Preparing beds in the fallEvery year the soil loses its unique properties, allowing you to grow strong vegetation and harvest fruits at the end of the season. That's why she needs our help. Regular application of fertilizers with substances such as potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus helps compensate for the lack of these elements. We do not see this deficiency, but we can understand that it exists only by the condition of the plants.
Autumn is the optimal period to enrich depleted soil with various fertilizing and fertilizers, which will be absorbed and absorbed during the cold period. And when do you start planting and sowing? garden crops V spring period, they will be able to receive adequate nutrition, since during the winter the fertilizers were processed by the soil into the form necessary for vegetation.
It takes some time for organic matter to take the form necessary for vegetation to perceive. That is precisely why, in order not to wait for spring and when everything is processed, it is necessary to introduce the nutrient medium into the ground in autumn. Over a long cold period, the elements will decompose into their components and will be ready to feed crops and seedlings before planting.
But fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly. It is necessary to take into account whole line nuances, namely soil condition, soil quality. And also plan future plantings in advance, because the same complementary food is not suitable for all plants, so take this into account and build on all of the above to choose the right nutrient medium.
Fertilizers should not be applied thoughtlessly Now let's move on directly to considering the proposed topic in more detail, let's look at every nuance.
Why do you need to prepare the ground in advance?
Gardeners often ask this question, because it’s spring and that’s when you can prepare the ground before planting vegetables. But this is not entirely the right way of thinking. Because as we already said, fertilizer needs time to cultivated plants could consume it for their growth. And in the spring there is already a lot of hassle: preparing seeds, growing seedlings, preparing holes for planting and planning the days for planting seedlings in the ground. Agree, this is very labor-intensive process, and you just may not have time to do everything.
Preparing the ground in advance This is why autumn preparatory work is very important. Having spent a little more effort in the outgoing year, you will be able to pay more attention to the planting work itself, because the site will be completely ready to grow a new crop. So don’t be lazy, and you can slowly plan your actions when spring arrives.
How to properly follow the sequence of preparation
Preparation should begin with clearing the area of remnants of tops, weeds and other remnants of vegetation. If they are healthy, then put them in a compost pit to dry out, then you can use this to improve the quality of the soil. If necessary, you can add chalk or slaked lime to such fertilizers to normalize the acidity of the soil. If they show signs of disease, it is better to burn them outside the territory.
Preparation should begin by clearing the area of remnants of tops Pay special attention to weeds. They need to be removed with special care: root systems, creeping stems. The garden should be completely rid of them so as not to waste time on this in the spring, when they will grow faster than vegetables on the fed soil.
Now that you have cleared the entire area of weeds and their remains. It is necessary to begin enriching the soil with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers - they are suitable for all plants. Since nothing will grow in the beds, you can also add urea in the winter; it’s not difficult to calculate: 20-25 g per 1 m2; superphosphate complementary foods in a ratio of 18-20 g per 1 m2; potassium chloride in a proportion of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. Don’t be afraid to add chlorine; by the time spring arrives, it will no longer be in the soil. In addition, it is good to put a layer of manure, already rotted, in the proportion of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2 or deciduous humus at 3-4 kg per 1 m 2. Stove ash, wood ash or soot in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m2 will also be useful.
To lighten heavy or clay soil in the garden, add 1 bucket river sand per square meter, after mixing it with compost. This will make the soil looser and increase its fertility.
And vice versa, if you have sandy soil, in which neither water nor nutrients, you need to mix it with clay, also a bucket per square meter, add compost in the amount of 5-6 kg per 1 m2, leaf humus 3-4 kg per 1 m2, as well as sawdust 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil, so make sure that when laying them, they are saturated with water and slightly ripe.
Be careful with sawdust, as it can oxidize the soil. Land with an acidity level below 6 units must be enriched with chalk or slaked lime. If the acid-base balance is less than 4.5, it is necessary to use limestone in an amount of 200-250 g per 1 m2. With indicators in the range of 4.6-5.5, add chalk in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m2.
All the described substances are added in the fall at the time of digging the garden. First, you distribute it over the top layer of turf, then dig up the soil using a full bayonet of a shovel, mixing everything necessary ingredients with the ground.
You need to dig up the beds correctly
There are two main ways to dig vegetable beds: dump-free and dump-type.
You need to dig up the beds correctly Let's first consider the non-dumping method; it consists in preventing the layer of earth from breaking up and turning over. Thus, the beneficial microflora of the soil of the lower and upper layers is completely preserved. The resulting clods of soil should also not be broken up.
The dump method is completely opposite in action: the lumps need to be turned over and crushed. This method is most often used in autumn preparation land. This is the only way we can place fertilizers in the soil while distributing them evenly. But those who decided to spend the winter in the ground harmful insects and dangerous microbes will literally be pulled out. It is not recommended to break up lumps of soil that are on the surface itself, because deep freezing will occur. But if you intend to carry out the preparation completely and clearly delimit the beds, crush all the lumps. Then it is necessary to level the soil over the entire surface; this can be achieved by layering the soil when digging, making them several centimeters higher than the rest of the soil. Thus Sun rays in the spring, such beds will warm up faster than other soil on the territory.
We prepare beds for each vegetable separately
We have reviewed common features how to prepare for planting plants in winter: applying fertilizer, coating, dump digging, layering soil on plots with increasing their level. But that's only general recommendations. But our task is not so much to find out the basic recommendations, it is to competently cultivate the plot for everyone a separate type vegetable crops. And all this is also carried out after the harvest, namely in autumn period.
Beds for planting beets
To sow vegetables, you need to choose a well-lit place with well-drained and light soil. Then you can safely expect a good harvest of root vegetables. Optimally, plots should be prepared on rocks or loam, with a neutral acid-base balance. Other types of soil are not suitable for growing this crop, even with normal nutritional content. It should not be planted in places infused with water. And you should avoid planting in highly acidic soil.
Beds for planting beets It is better to plant a vegetable in the space vacated by cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes early varieties. Also good predecessors are varieties of early sweet peppers, eggplants and tomatoes. And it is strictly forbidden to sow table beets in place of spinach, carrots, rapeseed, cabbage and chard.
Be sure to lay a layer of compost during the autumn preparatory work or leaf humus at the rate of ½ bucket per 1 m 2 of one plot. As a fertilizer with minerals Potassium chloride in a ratio of 12-14 g per 1 m2 and ammonium nitrate with superphosphate in a ratio of 22-25 g per 1 m2 will be good.
Please note that in no case should you introduce fresh manure into the soil during the preparation process, otherwise you risk growing crops with increased content nitrates in the coming year.
Prepares a plot for zucchini and pumpkin
These vegetable crops They are not at all picky and treat well almost all the fertilizers that we apply to the ground. They will also like almost completely rotted manure, at the rate of 3-4 kg per square meter of plot, but no more. It is laid for digging.
Prepares a plot for zucchini and pumpkin The soil must have a neutral acid-base balance. If your kidney has a high acid content, coat it or add limestone.
It is optimal to plant cultivated plants in places under potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops in general and after legumes. But you should not populate the area left by cucumbers, squash and zucchini.
Pay attention to the type of soil; if there is a high clay content, you need to add ½ bucket of humus and 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter and dig everything up well. The same measures are necessary for general training in the autumn for pumpkins and zucchini. Fertilizers with a mineral base are also necessary: superphosphate 10-15 g, ash 250 g and potassium phosphate 15 g - this will be quite enough.
Sandy lands can also be developed for growing zucchini and pumpkins; to do this, add a bucket of clay and ½ bucket of leaf humus per 1 m2 of beds.
Preparing a place for planting herbs
Dill and other greens also cannot be planted just anywhere in order to get a good harvest. They will successfully grow in a place freed from cabbage, tomatoes and onions. But don't plant herbs in a patch of carrots, parsnips and celery.
Landing place herbs Good illumination of the sowing area is also important; it will also be well heated. In the fall, cover the area planned for greenery with coniferous branches so that the snow lies there longer, so the land will be more fertile. Check the PH balance of the area. After all, vitamin bushes grow poorly in high acidity. Add lime or chalk to normalize the acidity level.
These plants do not require special preparation. Dig the bed no deeper than 23 cm, be sure to add 2-3 kg of rotted manure per 1 m2, 25-20 g ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g potassium sulfate, 10-12 g superphosphate per 1 m2. With the arrival of spring, you just need to loosen the soil well and arrange holes for sowing. It is also necessary to thoroughly water the plots at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2 and compact the soil a little so that the seeds do not “drown”. The sowing holes should be 2 cm deep.
Preparing the land for tomatoes
Tomatoes should be planted in the ground instead of beets, cucumbers, onions, leguminous plants, carrots, lettuce, greens, corn and zucchini. Late-ripening cabbage, potatoes, eggplants and sweet peppers are considered bad predecessors.
Preparing the land for tomatoes After selecting the location, you should begin selecting the soil type. The soil must be fertile. Excessively acidic soil should be fed with lime in a proportion of 150-200 g per 1 m2, but this will not work with any acidity. If the soil consists of sandstone or loam, then you will need to add 250 g of limestone per 1 m2 for digging; for medium or heavy loam, you will need to add 350 g, also under a shovel.
Take your time when applying fertilizer to the site. Prepare superphosphates, tomatoes love it, and simply distribute it over the entire garden bed without digging up the top layer.
Since tomato bushes have high growth, you should not make a bed for them with an increase in level. Limit yourself to dimensions of 23 cm wide and 100 cm long; you don’t need to do more in volume.
Plots for planting cucumbers
And of course, we allocate a plot for this vegetable crop. There are few places where you can find a garden where cucumbers do not grow. It is better to plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, legumes, spinach, onions, early varieties of cabbage, as well as cauliflower, carrots and herbs. And you should beware of the place after cucumbers, melons, watermelons, pumpkins and squash.
Plots for planting cucumbers Try to prepare the soil in the fall and make it light. Loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable for cucumber seedlings. Clay and heavy soils require the addition of sand: 1 bucket per 1 m2 under a shovel. The soil may be slightly acidic, cucumbers feel calm there, so if only such a piece of land remains, don’t worry.
And please note that it is also necessary to add 5-6 kg of rotted manure, and then dig up with a full shovel.
We lay down complementary food for warm beds
Autumn is also very suitable for building insulated beds. To do this, you will need boards to mount a box or box, as a rule, they are made 1 m * 2 m. In the bottom layer we put large branches, bark, thick plant stems, for example, corn, it can also be sawn logs and pieces of hemp or boards. Next, add a layer of sand, sawdust, chains, vegetable peelings and plant remains, even a layer of fallen leaves, humus and distribute the ash. When laying these layers, take into account the fact that there must still be soil on top, mixed with compost, up to 30 cm high, into which the plants will be planted.
Complementary foods for warm beds Is mulching necessary?
If you have a question about the need to mulch the beds that you have so carefully prepared, then yes, of course this activity needs to be carried out. Created on the basis of pure organic substances, it can in no way harm or affect the active life of all beneficial bacteria in the plots you created. At the beginning of spring, you just need to remove the spent mulch from the surface. The area is now ready to accept new plants, and the fertile soil will help them grow.
This article discusses beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to make for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn how to combine vegetable crops in one bed and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical recommendations for beginner gardeners.
Design proper beds in the garden will solve many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner summer cottage:
- protection against erosion of soil in the garden when there is a large amount of precipitation or watering of plants. The edges of the bed will remain in place nutritious soil, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles or streaks;
- the possibility of forming a basis for creating temporary greenhouse for the spring period. By installing high sides as fences, a multi-layer bed can be organized inside the structure, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result will be a neat greenhouse house;
- improvement appearance vegetable gardens due to orderly and even plantings with beautiful framing;
- creating boundaries to prevent the spread of weeds.
Making beds with your own hands from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the planting area, thanks to which weeds and harmful plants do not have the opportunity to spread widely. If the garden fence is dug to a greater depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds, which are unable to overcome this barrier, can no longer penetrate into the garden bed.
Note! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and creeping wheatgrass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering large distances underground if left unconstrained.
Photos of interesting bed designs, recommendations for their creation. Tips for Designing the Unusual landscape design Location on.
The most best place is an area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where there is shade in the morning or during the day. If the proposed construction area is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a vegetable garden.
How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design
The design of the beds is selected at an early stage of planning, when a place for the vegetable garden has already been selected.
Each type of beds has certain advantages:
- raised or - the most effective designs that are best suited for growing vegetable crops. Construction Materials they are not expensive to create, and the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determines how much effort and time will be required to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of boards. On the Internet you can find photos of raised beds with your own hands; such structures do not have fencing. They also fall into the category of elevated structures;
- Container beds - will be beneficial in cases where site space is limited. Small, large and medium-sized pots are suitable for organizing such beds. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and herbs feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which can be moved to any location if desired;
- open ground beds are the oldest method of growing crops that are planted directly into the ground. In such conditions it is more difficult to get a good harvest, so technology is often used joint landing vegetables in the garden.
Helpful advice! If you plan to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.
How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips
Raised beds are most often made from wood. This material, in comparison with others, is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Such designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds made from boards have other advantages:
- a simple maintenance system involving easy weeding, harvesting and watering of plants;
- the ability to grow vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. A frame is made on the basis of the boards, which is subsequently filled with fertile soil purchased in the store, so there is no connection to the quality of the soil and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with rocky surfaces;
- Box structures allow you to hold soil inside the bed. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of installing arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to secure these elements to the fence than to dig them into the soil;
- Even without knowing how to properly make garden beds, any summer resident can cope with the manufacture of wooden box structures. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require expensive tools;
- there is no chance that plants planted close to the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.
Note! The environmental friendliness of the material allows you not to worry about getting into the ground. harmful substances. Wood is much safer than asbestos cement sheets(slate). The exception is boards treated with chemicals designed to double the life of the material.
Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material
Summer residents most often create wooden structures based on materials found on the farm. To make beds, timber, round timber, slab, and lining can be used.
When it comes to purchasing boards in a store, you should pay special attention to the type of wood from which they are made:
- a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;
- pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to rotting while in the ground, so its service life is short. By using impregnations and antiseptics, the life of pine can be extended by a couple of years;
- boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch is naturally impregnated with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its newness for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;
- Boards made from acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so its processing will be more difficult. To work with acacia you will need a powerful electric tool.
Helpful advice! It is not recommended to skimp on the quality of the material. Boards made from poor wood are susceptible to rapid rotting. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the garden beds, through which fertile soil will be washed away during rains and watering of plants.
Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures
Box beds have rectangular shape and are made from boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident can handle its manufacture. The main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.
- height– many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not intended to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where a fence height of up to 0.7 m is acceptable. Manufacturing technology similar designs requires laying multi-layer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required; it is enough to limit it to 0.15-0.2 m. Excessive height of the sides is also unprofitable in economic terms, because their construction will require a lot of boards. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time high fences will swell and lose their attractive shape;
- width– experienced summer residents recommend choosing a width equal to half the height of the person who will care for the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because during work a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side fence;
- length– this parameter is practically unlimited. Although excessively long structures reduce the level of rigidity of the side rails, it is therefore recommended to choose a length within 4-6 m.
Helpful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds It should be taken into account that between them it is necessary to organize passages with a width of 0.4-0.6 m. Only after this the layout of structures on the site is considered.
Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes
The method of combining crops is very effective in practice if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, plot owners use a special table to calculate the proximity of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors and provide them with protection from pests.
The correct proximity of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table
Many summer residents note that thanks to the proximity of beans as a seal for the beds where potatoes are grown, the amount of Colorado potato beetle. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from the white butterfly. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all, an excessive amount of marigolds in the garden can stifle the growth of cabbage.
Table of vegetable neighbors in the garden that create a successful tandem:
| Name of vegetable crop | Plants for successful combination |
| strawberries | beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce |
| kohlrabi | cucumber, lettuce, onion, beets |
| peas | carrots, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant |
| onion | tomato, celery, beets, savory, carrots |
| beans | potatoes, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant |
| cucumber | radishes, peppers, peas, cabbage, beans |
| carrot | lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas |
| salad | strawberries, cucumber, carrots, radishes |
| pepper | salad, cucumber, beans |
| tomato | calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley |
The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:
- cabbage and strawberries;
- onions and beans;
- carrots and celery, dill, parsley;
- cucumbers and potatoes.
Helpful advice! In addition to the main crops, it is recommended to spot-plant spicy and ornamental grasses. Thus, the garden will not only be beautiful, but also useful.
Examples of mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: popular schemes
A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions can produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of bed. Carrots on the same area yield approximately 6 kg of yield. When growing these crops together, 1 m² can produce 9 kg of vegetables. These plants create protective barriers against pests for each other, so the efficiency of the used area increases.
Of course, when planning to grow crops together in a garden bed, you need to group the plants based on their height so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different heights, but also grow with at different speeds. It is desirable that the compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of multi-tiered juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds makes it possible to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also promotes rational use solar energy.
High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage are planted. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of 0.8x0.8 m, not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (grind first).
To get excellent results when planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. Along the row with bush beans, it is installed so that each plant is located at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden bed. As a result, the bean and tomato bushes should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Helpful advice! It is better to trim tomato stems for the winter, and as low as possible. On the contrary, it is recommended to leave beans untouched.
Table of crop rotation of vegetables in beds by crop groups
Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same bed is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good harvests.
Advantages of proper crop rotation:
- the likelihood of soil fatigue on the site is eliminated, since the same vegetable absorbs the same set of nutrients from the soil every year and does it from the same depth;
- the spread of diseases and pests that affect plants of the same family is prevented;
- it becomes possible to rationally use fertilizers.
The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in a garden bed involves planting plants from different families in the same area every year. The easiest way is to divide cultures into four groups:
- Leaf crops - these include different kinds cabbage, green onions, leaf salads, as well as spinach.
- Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, pumpkin.
- Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.
- Root vegetables - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.
Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:
| Sequence of landing by year | Recommended crops for planting | |||
| 1st bed | 2nd bed | 3rd bed | 4th bed | |
| 1 year | fruit | roots | legumes | leafy |
| 2 year | roots | legumes | leafy | fruit |
| 3 year | legumes | leafy | fruit | roots |
Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in open ground: photos and recommendations
To grow cucumbers in open ground, beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the rains and temperatures drop. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has a good level of air and water permeability. If the soil on the site is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the soil to facilitate loosening.
Helpful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite flour.
The process of preparing a bed for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. To do this, the site of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution must be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be increased by adding chicken manure or manure. This procedure is carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly into the trench or hole. After this, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.
How to make a bed for cucumbers: agrotechnical secrets
To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:
- There should be no irrigation canals, streams or flowing reservoirs near the beds.
- If the planting area is not protected, it is better to place the garden in a quiet place where there are no drafts.
- Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil must be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out greatly.
- Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than those grown in closed beds.
- During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the plant's vines or turn them over.
- Weeding of plants in open beds needs to be done more often than in closed ground.
- It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with black film.
Cucumbers need a rich biological composition of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, and food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only does the fertility of the soil increase, but also heat is released, warming the soil. So that the high temperature does not damage root system cucumbers, experienced summer residents advise abundant watering.
Interesting fact! Sometimes decomposition organic fertilizers occurs so actively that the soil in the garden bed warms up to 80° C. Under the influence of such high temperature Many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the soil die. As a result, natural sterilization of the soil occurs.
There are several ways to grow cucumbers in open ground. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.
How to make cucumber beds in the garden with a bookmark
To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured in. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. Can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The layer is filled with warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and soil.
A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, you will not need to add compost to the top layer, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.
Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:
- convenient watering system;
- stagnation of water is eliminated;
- In the spring there is no need to dig up the soil, just loosen the soil.
Plants can be planted on such a nutrient basis much earlier than is customary in conventional beds. It is not recommended to use beds with filling in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.
Warm surface beds for cucumbers in open ground
This type of warm beds for growing cucumbers is built on the surface of prepared soil. This technology will the best option for areas that are located in lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with film. As a result, a greenhouse effect is formed, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their productivity.
Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is filled with sand, then with wood waste. Next comes the layer organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is filled with a mixture consisting of soil.
Helpful advice! Vegetable and fruit skins, fallen leaves, eggshell(ground into powder).
Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the box bed, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, the structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you will need to install plastic arcs and pull them on plastic film. Thus, heating increases and it becomes possible to get an early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.
Raised beds for cucumbers in open ground
Warm beds with a raised structure are used in cases where the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, the soil is fully warmed up, allowing for early harvesting. If they get too close to the garden groundwater, the bed is raised high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil that is oversaturated with moisture. Stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater, are planted in a similar way.
Various materials are used as borders for these structures. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of bed can even be installed in the middle of the lawn. If you frame it in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised vegetable garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.
As an alternative solution, you can build a mound on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed; the optimal width is 1 m. You should not raise the ornamental garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and promotes rapid heating of the soil.
To speed up the decomposition process of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria is in the spring. After treating the beds, you should wait at least a week before planting plants. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the soil has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen and the drug itself is evenly distributed.
How to make beds in the garden: video review of technology
We fight weeds
Twice tillage and continuous loosening of the soil summer period do not in any way contribute to its improvement. Autumn tillage for vegetable crops should be done before the onset of persistent cold weather and the rainy season. The best time For such a task, the second half of September - the first ten days of October is considered.
It is advisable to begin soil preparation by lightly loosening the top layer of soil and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, the easiest way is to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting using
harrowing. Professionals recommend using a Fokin flat cutter, which simultaneously kills weeds and loosens the soil. Even if young weeds appear in the beds later, they will be destroyed when the soil is loosened in spring. Regular implementation of this work leads to the destruction of weeds such as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.
Working with a cultivator and walk-behind tractor
Most landowners prefer mechanical tillage, which significantly increases the yield, and on soils overgrown with perennial grasses and uncultivated soils it simply serves as an indispensable agrotechnical technique.
When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the milling cutter creates a fine-lumpy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm; this is considered the most suitable for this work.
Among other things, the motor cultivator allows for loosening row spacing, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, you should immediately take into account that the cultivator can only work on previously plowed soil. That is, if the area is turfed, then a walk-behind tractor will come in handy. In this case, the entire green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.
Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft, which allows the use of a variety of attachments. When using a tiller on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of vegetable seeds and favorable for growing young seedlings. This soil treatment is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. In open ground, the number of factors influencing the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and “fluffy” soil is simply unacceptable for it.
As a rule, cultivated plants need abundant nutrition. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This also contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues and the formation of humus. Tillage stimulates root growth
plant system and allows it to penetrate deeper with less effort.
Deep tillage may be required every five years. Walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a kit are suitable for this. mounted implements. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. This kind of work is especially beneficial when growing table root vegetables.
Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.
About the benefits of fertilizers
In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. During the loosening process, they are evenly mixed with fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for good quality the resulting products.
During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to areas where cucumber and cabbage seedlings are planned to be planted next year (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except for nitrogen, can be applied to all crops. The digging depth should be at least 20 cm.
If you want to deepen the arable horizon, then keep in mind that in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On acidic soil Liming will be a prerequisite. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), the tops and plant debris (except stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. In such ridges you can not only sow ahead of schedule, but also the soil warms up better.
How to treat an area where nothing has grown for a long time
How to treat an area where nothing has grown for a long time
In the first spring, the sod area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In the fall, the area is dug up again, but to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the turf is at a depth and no longer germinates. All that remains is to apply fertilizer and level the surface with a rake.
In the fall, the area treated in the spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.
The following autumn, after harvesting, the plot is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the turf will decompose and the weeds will die. Subsequently, the soil is treated as developed.
Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t really want to dig up the site, when all the work can be done within easy processing rake the soil!
Autumn is a crucial time of year for a beginning gardener. The foundation of the future harvest is being laid right now.
In the fall, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The blocks will freeze, and with them the overwintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug layer, and moisture can freely seep deeper.
Cleaning up the garden is a good reason to organize compost heap. You can throw plant debris into it. But only those not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can be partially preserved in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. You cannot throw weeds with already formed seeds into the compost, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.
Autumn sowing
In order to carry out autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is what is required for winter crops).
Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But not in those places where in the spring the soil does not dry out for a long time or flooding occurs. Cultures with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature is close to 2-3 °C. IN central regions In the non-chernozem zone this occurs in the second half of October - the first ten days of November. If sown too early, the seedlings may die from autumn frosts.
About root vegetables
If the weather is dry and not frosty, then you don’t have to rush to harvest root crops. After all, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further shelf life.
Carrots and other root vegetables intended for storage must be perfect: smooth, without mechanical damage or signs of disease. All “uglies” are used for canning and processing.
OUR TIPS
Onion sets less than 1 cm in diameter room conditions poorly preserved, dries quickly. It is better to plant it before winter.
For winter sowing small seedlings are made into ridges and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between the rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs - 15-20 cm.
Plantings are mulched with peat in a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.
Middle and late varieties of white cabbage are often harvested in one go. Cabbage intended for fresh storage is removed in late dates(but don’t let her freeze). Short-term frosts (4-5 °C) will not harm the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.
Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.
For planting, select the largest cloves, which are located with outside bulbs. It is better not to use those in the center for planting. Planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. Clove from clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Row spacing is wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. And it’s more convenient to care for it.
IMPORTANT!
In small areas, you can sow into frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.
In this case, sprinkle the seeds with dry soil, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.
The seed sowing rate before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.
The planting depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).
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Regardless of what you are going to grow - vegetables, flowers or shrubs and trees, the first thing you need to do is prepare the soil. In well-loosened soil, roots can develop optimally; rainwater and water from irrigation, and exactly where it is needed - directly to the roots, and excess moisture is easily removed. Soil with small clods is the optimal cradle for your...
If you did not do deep loosening in the fall, you can do it in the spring. However, it must be carried out in a timely manner, when the soil is not frozen and no longer too wet. After all, after loosening, the soil must still settle a little and become compacted - only after that can it be planted in it. Try, if possible, not to trample loose soil. For example, work mostly “in reverse” and place a board if you still need to step into the garden bed.
Preparing beds and other areas for planting
Compost delivers nutrients slowly but over time and generally improves soil properties. And the plants begin to grow well after planting. But it is necessary to use mature compost, mixed with soil and sifted, which was “ready” last fall (especially for seedlings). It is best to apply it a couple of weeks before sowing. First, spread the compost with a shovel or bucket over the planting surface in a layer of about 1 cm, and then mix it with the soil, but do not bury it!
Prepare the beds - loosening in the spring: give air, weeds away
If deep loosening of the soil was carried out in the fall, light loosening in the spring is enough to ventilate its top layer:
- To do this, use a grubber, cultivator or ripper.
- In dug up soil, you first need to use a pick to crush large clods of earth.
- At the same time, carefully collect the roots of the weeds - these efforts will be worth it in any case.
It is best to carry out loosening a couple of days before planting so that the soil has time to settle again.
How to get crumbly soil is an important point in preparing beds for sowing and planting seedlings
The rotary cultivator, or star roller, is a practical tool for breaking up lumps and clods and removing weeds. It will be especially useful on soils prone to clumping; in other cases, you can get by with a rake.
Expert tip: Place large clods of soil on top - they will serve you well there.
Level the soil well
Some soils are sometimes very difficult to level. To do this, you have to work with a rake along and across the surface and rake large clods to the side. The fact that the soil is slightly compacted again does not harm the plants at all; on the contrary, it provides the seeds and roots of the plants with better contact with the ground.
Expert tip: Fill holes where water stagnates, as they can harm seeds and seedlings.
Paths and borders between beds
If the rows are not paved with anything, then it is best to trample them thoroughly and then cover them with bark mulch or crushed stone. To keep the edges of your beds clear, use a string stretched between pegs or a piece of hose. A simple and flexible border for garden beds can be made from durable plastic border tapes or vertically buried plates. Wooden palisade It looks, of course, more beautiful, but it outlines too harshly.
