home > Construction materials > Installation of a drainage system with your own hands. Installation of a system for draining rainwater from the roof What roof gutters can be made from

Installation of a drainage system with your own hands. Installation of a system for draining rainwater from the roof What roof gutters can be made from

Water is the main enemy building structures. Flowing down from the roof during rain or melting snow, it moistens the walls of the building, breaks up blind areas or paths, and erodes the soil under the foundation. This can cause the house to settle unevenly and cause cracks to appear. At low temperatures, the liquid in the pores and capillaries of structures freezes, and the destruction process accelerates. To protect against aggressive moisture, a drainage system is installed. Making a gutter with your own hands is a completely doable task for those who do not want to put up with dampness in the basement, sagging foundations and streams of rain pouring from the roof.

The main function of a roof drain is to collect water from the roof surface and drain it to a remote location. For large areas of slopes, options are provided when the drainpipe directs the flow into a storm sewer or a special tank.

Drainage structures form an organized system, in contrast to an unorganized one, where masses of water flow randomly from the surface of the slopes.

Materials for gutters

Devices for draining water from the roof appeared a long time ago. Man protected his home from rain with the help of gutters of various shapes, made of wood, ceramics and even marble. Later they began to be made from lead and copper. Nowadays, roof drains are made from materials that are not subject to corrosion:

galvanized steel;
plastic;
metal with polymer coating;
cast iron;
copper;
zinc titanium;
aluminum

The strongest and most durable structures are made of metal. They are not afraid of frost, shock, or sunlight. Cast iron systems are used in multi-story construction, galvanization is used in places where there are no requirements for the external attractiveness of the structure.

Drain from assessment

Metal elements with polymer coating are intended for private and public buildings, where the roof with a drainage system should look attractive and form a single, complete composition.

Copper roof drain

The most expensive roof gutters are made of copper. They are classified as premium. In combination with copper or slate tiles, the systems serve as a decoration for the building. Over time, the metal becomes covered with a noble patina, which gives the appearance of the structure even greater sophistication.

Plastic drain

Plastic products are inexpensive, lightweight and quite durable. Inferior to metal ones mechanical strength and resistance to UV radiation. Most often they are used in combination with roofing made of flexible bitumen tiles or ondulin.

Important. The drainage profile can be of any size: round, square or rectangular section. There are no strict rules for selecting systems.

Types of structures

IN multi-storey buildings and structures with flat roofs arrange internal drainage. The liquid is collected in a funnel from the roof surface and enters a riser located in non-residential premises, stairwells or corridors. At the lowest point the system connects to the city storm sewer through a closed outlet running underground. From utility networks water flows into nearby reservoirs.

In private low-rise construction, an external drain is used, where the system is located outside the building. Pipes, gutters and funnels are attached to external walls. Such structures are easy to maintain and repair. From the pipes of external drains, liquid is discharged through open outlets, which are above-ground concrete gutters or grooves along the perimeter of the blind area. They are closed on top with protective grilles. Read more in the article, where we examined all the options in detail.

Materials for making a drain with your own hands

In order to make a drain with your own hands for country house or a canopy, inexpensive improvised materials are sufficient. For the manufacture of drainage systems the following is used:

galvanized steel;
sewer pipes;
plastic bottles;
tree.

It is more convenient to make a tin roof drain with your own hands using a bending machine. Sheet metal is cut taking into account the allowance for roller seams. The edges are folded back to form a connection. The parts are rolled out and the seams are made manually or with a special seaming machine. One edge of the tubes is narrowed and a riser is installed.

Making a drain from tin

Gutters are easier to assemble from polymer pipes. The links are connected in a similar way to a sewer system. For the gutter, the solid element is dissolved into 2 identical parts. Using shaped parts, the riser can be given the desired configuration.

Drain made of plastic pipes

Drainage from plastic bottles is the most budget option. One and a half to two liter containers are connected into a pipe of the required length, having previously cut off the neck and bottom. Glued with sealant. For the gutter, trays are made from bottles, which are sequentially fastened with a stapler or wire through holes made with an awl.

Do-it-yourself draining from a plastic bottle

A wooden drain is assembled from boards, securing them at an angle of 90°. They are connected into a long gutter with an overlap to prevent water from leaking. The bottom is lined with plastic film. Mount the structure on brackets, giving it a slope. The outlet pipe can be made from wood, tin corner, plastic pipes. To receive water, dig a ditch at a distance of 1.5 m from the wall and fill it with crushed stone and broken bricks.

Important. Making a gutter with your own hands is not a difficult task. You just need to carefully seal the joints, give the gutter a slope of at least 2 mm per 1 m, and treat the wood against rotting. This design will serve the owner for many years.

The metal drainage system is made from sheet low-carbon steel with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm. Polymer materials that are resistant to environmental influences and abrasion are used as coatings. Products are manufactured in a wide range color scheme- from white, silver, brick red to gray or black. This allows you to choose an option that fits harmoniously into your stylistic design building.

What does the metal drain in the photo consist of?

The metal drain consists of the following elements:

Gutter is a long tray located along the roof slope for collecting rain or melt water.
A water inlet funnel is a cone-shaped part for receiving liquid from a gutter and discharging it into a drainpipe. Can break a long tray into shorter sections.
Gutter connector - a profile with rubber seals for joining the gutter with corner elements.
Rotary corners - parts for joining the gutter at points of rotation by 90°-165°. Can be rounded or rectangular.
Downpipes are vertical elements for transporting water from the funnel to the outlet. Connectors are used to join adjacent links.
Rotary elbows, tees - profiles assembled from pipe sections that change direction or connect two flows.
Clamps are fasteners for fixing drainpipes to walls.
Brackets are hooks for hanging the gutter along the slopes.
Outlets are horizontal pipes for draining water away from a building and discharging it into a drainage ditch or onto the ground.
Drains are trays or pipes for draining liquid from a drain.
Gutter end caps are components that prevent water from flowing out in the wrong direction and give the gutter additional rigidity.
Grilles are perforated elements for trapping leaves or debris, as well as for the safety of movement of a person or machine.

Important. All details are calculated and selected individually in accordance with the roof parameters and climatic conditions.

Installation features

The drainage system, like any engineering communications, must be pre-designed. Draw up a drawing with a roof plan, which indicates the direction of water flow, the location of the funnels, and the length of the gutters.

Gutter installation diagram

Sections of elements are selected according to the expected amount of precipitation and roof area. Funnels are installed at the rate of one element per 10 linear meters. length or 100 m² of slope. Sometimes they are combined in two pieces per vertical pipe. Flows are redirected using tees.

Installation of brackets

Installation of gutters begins with the installation of brackets. Long, short or universal holders are used to fix gutters. They are secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Long brackets are installed before laying the sheathing and roofing material. They are given a bend corresponding to the slope of the roof. Short hooks are used to fix the gutter to the front board or wall of the building. This option can be used both before and after installation of the roof. Sometimes the brackets are attached to the end of the fillies or rafter legs. In this case, fasteners with a bent leg are used. Universal brackets are collapsible. The upper part is attached before or after installation of the coating. Bottom - after laying the roofing material. The hooks do not stick out and do not interfere during operation.

Mounting options

Depending on the installation sequence, there are different methods for attaching hooks:

before laying the covering, the brackets are attached to the mauerlat, rafters or bottom board of the sheathing;
on the finished roof - the hooks are fixed on the front board without removing the bottom row of covering.

Attach the outer holders and tighten the thread

First, install the outer holders at the highest and lowest points. The installation step of the brackets is 50-60 cm. They are placed no further than 5 cm around the funnel. The hooks are screwed along a stretched cord, maintaining a slope of 2-5 mm per 1 m of gutter length. The edge of the roof should not overlap the gutter by more than 1/3 of the width.

Fastening brackets depending on overhangs

Inclined systems require fasteners that are mounted at an angle. For this purpose, hooks with an adjusting device are used, which allows you to change the position relative to the base.

If the roof overhang is sufficient, the option of installing an entire fastening system is possible. It consists of a guide metal profile and holders that are inserted into it after installation. You can give the structure any angle of inclination.

When the snow melts, the drain fastening does not interfere

Sometimes hooks are hung directly from the roofing material. In this case, it must be rigid and strong to support the weight of the gutter section with water. Clamps with gaskets are used as fasteners. There are other types of brackets - extending or installed inside the drainage tray.

Laying the gutter

Installation of the gutter begins with marking the hole for the funnel. Use scissors or a hacksaw to make a slot with a diameter equal to the cross-section of the drainage part. Adjust and roll its edges with pliers to create droplet-shaped bevels.

Gutter installation

Install the gutter on the brackets. The trays are joined along their length using connectors or latches. Rotating elements are mounted at the intersections and corners of the slopes. The joints are glued with sealant or sealed with rubber. Additionally secured with rivets.

After installation is complete, a special mesh can be placed on the open gutter to protect the system from falling leaves and debris.

Protective mesh for leaf gutter

Funnel fastening

Funnels are installed at the lowest point of the drain no further than 150 mm from the blind end. The holes of the tray and the water collector must match. The part is placed on the gutter from below and the ears are snapped into place.

Installation of funnels on drains

A plug is mounted on the end of the tray and secured with a rivet.

Installation of drainpipes

A rotating elbow and a piece of pipe 100 mm long are connected to the drainage pipe. A second curved element is attached to it to create a convenient configuration for fixing to the wall. The upper clamp is attached to the wall at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the edge of the knee. Installing a section of drain pipe the right size, bringing it into the rotating element.

Installation of a drainpipe

The length of the pipe is secured with clamps in increments of 1.8 meters. The drain seam is turned towards the wall. It is fixed at the bottom with a clamp and the ebb is installed. Its edge should be at a height of 200-250 mm from the blind area.

When installing a metal drain, you need to follow some rules:

cut elements with metal scissors or a hacksaw with fine teeth;
remove before installation protective films;
Place the end caps on the smooth part of the gutter;
use profiles and fasteners recommended by the manufacturer;
set the number of funnels corresponding to the calculation;
maintain the distance between the brackets and clamps;
leave a gap of 50-100 mm between the pipe and the facade;
The junctions of the gutters should be reinforced with brackets; the distance from the joint to the fasteners should not exceed 150 mm on both sides.

Installing gutters yourself will help save the budget allocated for building a house. With proper selection of elements and installation, the system will last at least 10 years.

To properly install roof gutters, you need to take care of this at the building design stage. This will make it possible to choose the best option for the system not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on engineering features individual designs. Mainly the type of fastening of gutters, there are options for fixing these elements of gutters to the sheathing, and there are options for fastening to the eaves board. The work consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of fastening the gutters and their functionality.

It is impossible to install gutters correctly without prior planning. What should I do?

Despite the features of roofing systems and differences in, for all types of structures there are general rules installation.

Complete set of spillways

The configuration and structural characteristics of the systems have a significant impact on the methods of installing gutters on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of gutters?

Item name	Description and installation features
	They are used for fastening gutters; they can be fixed to sheathing boards (hooks) or to the eaves strip (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip and are bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. main feature– the need for installation before starting roofing works, otherwise you will have to dismantle the first row of coatings. Currently considered an obsolete design and rarely used. More often, brackets are used that are fixed to the cornice board or rafter overhangs. Can be made of plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to precisely adjust the position of the gutter after attaching the elements to the board.
	They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted along the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. The shape can be round or square, there are options self-made gutters. Installation is done after completion of the roofing work. To protect elements from falling snow, snow guards can be additionally used; this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to maintain the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the element drainage system. For proper installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof; the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of the slopes. Simultaneously with this data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads; one funnel per 10 m of gutter is recommended.
	Most often they have an angle of 90°, but sometimes they are also found with an angle of 135°. To seal the joints with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the corners of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10–15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower; a more reliable suspension is required.
	They are installed on gutters and direct the water they collect into vertical pipes. Correct fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the slope area and maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. Funnels can be pass-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system; the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.
	They allow you to change the direction of water flow and connect several elements of the system to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket-type connection; during installation, you need to pay attention to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.
	During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the points of fixation of the elements; depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it ranges from 1.2–1.8 m. Type of fixation to façade wall varies depending on the materials used to make it. Clamps can be plastic or metal.
	They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the standard of 3 m. The diameter is selected taking into account the water flow; the quantity, installation location and total length are calculated before the installation of the drainage system begins.

Prices for gutters

Gutters

Basic mistakes in installing roof gutters

Correct installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also durability of the drainage systems. Metal products can become deformed from excessive loads caused by gross violations of installation technology, while plastic products crack and require complete replacement.

What mistakes do inexperienced roofers often make?

Incorrect slope of gutters. To ensure normal water drainage, it is recommended to make the slope within 3–5 mm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas will form. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the lumen of the gutter. As a result, the drainage system stops working and the gutter needs to be cleaned. Doing this is difficult and time-consuming, and correcting a mistake is not always possible. Sometimes you have to undermine installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.
Insufficient number of brackets. All designs are designed for the maximum possible bending load; taking this data into account, manufacturers recommend optimal distance between fixation points. For plastic structures brackets should be no more than 50 cm apart; for metal ones, this parameter increases to 60 cm. You should never skimp on the number of brackets; the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the cost of eliminating negative consequences.
Incorrect coupling connection. Due to technology violations, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, every effort should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.
Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If you continue the roof plane, it should pass above the rear edge of the gutter at a distance of approximately 20-25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously ensure safe rapid removal of snow from the roof and complete intake of all rainwater. Reducing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, and increasing it will cause water to enter the ground rather than into the gutter. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to flow past the drainage system.

Each type of system has its own minor design differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to all.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate a drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should begin only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, fixation locations and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch shows areas for installing funnels and vertical drain pipes with all elbows and couplings. The nomenclature and quantity of materials are known, all elements have been purchased.

Step 1. Reinstall the drainage system funnel; it should be located at the lowest point of the eaves board.

Before fastening, use a bubble level or any level strip to check the correct position of the element. Place a level on the roofing, raise/lower the funnel until its opposite side is positioned at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the bottom plane of the tool. Mark the places where the funnel is fixed.

Remember that the roof edge protrusion should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If errors were made during the installation of the eaves (front) board or roof, they should be corrected. The optimal solution is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the fillets of the rafter system.

Step 2. Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2–3 cm.

Step 3. Install brackets to secure the gutters. In our example, they are plastic and are fixed to the cornice board. There is an option for attaching brackets made of metal strips to the sheathing; they must be installed before covering the roof.

There are two ways to properly install brackets.

First.

Second.

The control thread can be pulled with emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. A specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the features of the roof of the building.

The slope of the brackets is 2 cm by 10 m

Practical advice. Famous manufacturers offer universal hooks for attaching gutters. They are fixed to the sheathing and have two degrees of adjustment: vertical position and tilt angle. This allows you to insert all position parameters after screwing the element to the rafter system and completing the roof covering. Metal hooks are also installed up to the roof coverings, but the hooks are not adjustable; the correct installation process should be done immediately using one of the described methods.

Step 4. After fixing all the brackets, you can begin assembling and installing the gutter. It is recommended to cut elements with an ordinary hacksaw or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends sharp knife, they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To properly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. Such a simple operation will ensure complete drainage of water from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with numbers printed on them. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to follow this condition. The fact is that plastics have large coefficients of thermal expansion; if the recommendations are not followed, there is a risk of swelling or the ends falling out of the funnel.

Important. It is strictly prohibited to stick or use additional sealants for connecting gutters in a funnel of this type. Individual elements should be able to move slightly in one direction or another depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used; they are glued and snapped into place. You need special glue; it is sold complete with the drainage system. The turning corners of the gutters are also glued to the glue. A minimum of three strips of adhesive, each approximately 5mm thick, is required. The couplings are put on the chute and turned until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is no more than 5 cm. In the places where the turns are attached, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, and eliminate the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6. Install plugs on the gutters; they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable; rubber parts lose their plasticity over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Under the influence of moisture and freezing temperatures, silicone will peel off from the plastic in the second year of operation of the drainage system.

If the installation scheme of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.

At this point, the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system is completed; the installation of vertical pipes can begin.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical bends have several angles for connecting to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on architectural features building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, select two corners and measure the length of the coupling sections. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut with a hacksaw or grinder; the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2. Glue the top elbow to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper elbow is made non-removable for one reason - it is impossible to fasten the clamp in this place, the elbow is only supported by the funnel.

Step 3. Mark the mounting locations for the pipe clamps. There are two ways to do this. The first is to mark a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for clamps on it at the required distance. The second is to use a level to mark the installation points of the elements one by one for each clamp, and maintain the vertical position with the level. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make your decision on the spot based on your qualifications.

Marking the position of pipe clamps

Step 4. Drill a hole for the plastic dowel and secure the base of the clamp. Work carefully; if you use excessive force, the plastic may crack and you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of insulation made of foam plastic or mineral wool, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole in the solid wall with a depth of at least 3 cm.

Step 5. Insert the pipe into the corner and secure its position with a clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole section of pipe; you will get two on each side near each coupling.

There are letter designations on the plastic clamps. The top clamp is screwed so that the arrow points to the letter “A” on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in position “B”, the arrow should point to this letter. The fact is that the clamp holders have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow points to a reinforced one, it is in this direction that the main forces will act.

If, due to the size of the building, it is necessary to connect two pipes, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The gap width is at least two centimeters.

The installation work ends with gluing the elbow to supply water to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a container for collecting rainwater. Then it is used for irrigation or other economic purposes.

Video - Correct installation of the drainage system

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and discharging it into a storm drain, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating sheathing for further roofing. However, there are roof designs that require the installation of drainage systems after roofing work. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is made easier by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided different cases, at which it is necessary to mount general design, they are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced metal structures, having a polymer coating, or made entirely of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and long term service, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, “new generation” gutters quickly became in great demand among buyers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - regular galvanized, metal, polymer-coated, or completely plastic, it’s worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should immediately be noted that everyone from materials from which Gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

A plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes and is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosion processes, is inert to ultraviolet radiation and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit tightly to the wind board and are held securely on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all design details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant disadvantage.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well and look very elegant in appearance, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, what about the damage? polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means the duration of the structure’s functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Greater care is required when assembling and working with fasteners.

Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly damage the howl bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can briefly recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - this could be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly high. If such systems are chosen, then you can also select brackets for them that can be attached to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, supporting brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders match the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to produce by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after covering the roof?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances may force us to install a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, in exactly this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, which is why they plan to attach the drainage gutter to the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
Very common reason when old system drainage system is completely outdated and has exhausted its service life - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Prices for gutters

gutters

If the rafter system was used for, which, according to technology, should go out onto the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this option, there is no possibility of attaching the brackets for laying the gutters to the sheathing and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How drainage systems are installed along eaves overhangs

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

Long hooks are most often used to secure under the roofing before it is laid on. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before installing the open or continuous sheathing.
Short brackets can be used to install a drainage system on a front board or on the wall of a building. This type of hooks is installed both before laying the roofing on the rafter system and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the front board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is attached to the end surface of rafter legs or fillies. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the grain.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for installing drainage systems both before laying the roofing material and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, when laying roofing. This will make it possible to decide which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to secure brackets to elements of the rafter system:

On the rafter legs, both on the end and on their upper or side sides.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (opc) of continuous sheathing.
On the edge of the roof covering.

The first method is to the rafters or sheathing

If the brackets are fixed before installing the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs that if necessary correct location gutters can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Attaching hooks to sheathing boards (sheets)

If the roof covering has already been laid, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced, and the brackets are planned to be fixed in a similar way, then the bottom layer of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of coverage. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in use for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without breaking its integrity or without deformation, especially if it is secured with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is laid on a plywood base, you can try to carefully lift only the lower edge of the roofing material running along the eaves. Then, align the brackets to continuous sheathing and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafters through the plywood covering. Next step bitumen shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists of attaching hooks to the side of the timber. For this purpose, brackets with a bent mounting platform turned horizontally are purchased or manufactured - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is only possible if the rafter legs have sufficient big size in cross section, for example, 120×50 or 150×50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the hooks must be secured so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise an overflow of water may occur during heavy rain.

Therefore, if you choose the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafters, you first need to do a fitting, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the front board

The easiest way to install the brackets is on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The front board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

The following are suitable for installing a drainage system on a frontal board:

Long brackets, if the frontal board has big enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the front board.

Short brackets are designed for fastening them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable; the reliability of the fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will firmly hold the gutters.

In addition to the usual brackets, you can find them on sale adjustable options. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be avoided, for example, when installing a drainage system on an inclined wind board or on the crown of a log house.

Prices for brackets

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the front board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed to the wind board, which is immediately given the required slope. Then brackets are put on the side of the profile and moved along the guide, spaced at the required distance. There is no need to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when installing it, you will not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you will only need to align the profile with the required slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is marked on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then you need to retreat from the end edge of the front board from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation location for the first bracket.

Next, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (systems from some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After making such markings, you can proceed to attaching the brackets to the front board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing.

This method is applicable for installing a drainage system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Fastening of hook holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which secure the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps; to secure some of them, you will need to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, moving back at least 50 mm from its edge. Others have a design that does not require drilling into the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, similar to a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave covering, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to place rubber pads under the metal fastening legs of the clamp on both the top and bottom sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary long metal hooks can be remade yourself by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic ones must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a kit that is lightweight.

The fourth method is with an additional long bracket

In this option, an additional metal L-shaped bracket is used to attach short holders for gutters. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120÷150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafters, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a drainage system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to arrange a drainage system that already has covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly to the wall surface, carefully taking measurements and markings.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is the appropriate width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed to metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, similar to the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen; they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then first a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in it, into which a pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, you must wait until the solution has completely hardened.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins driven into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the drainpipe funnel is ensured.

A pull-up hanging mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes you can’t do without such a design. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder; through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or front board.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the drain both on the front board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the gutter must be covered on top with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the bridges, collecting dust and dirt that flows down with water with roof, and over time a plug forms in the gutter. To prevent water from overflowing due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can note that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of securing the gutter system, before going to the store to buy it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes into which storm drains from the gutter will flow, since if you purchase a pipe it is not enough large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard. So, if the length of the eaves of the slope is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. For longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram by the letter Y, as well as the length of the eaves line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the drainage area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which the drainpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and two gutters from it, sloping towards the corners of the building, where the gutters are installed.

Gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm for each linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what sizes of gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m²	Gutter section, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter sloped in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60÷100	115	87	-
80÷130	125	110	-
120÷200	150	-	87
160÷220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and provides other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, drain pipe 110 mm
The size of the catchment area, m²
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having understood the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to drainpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be necessary in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
A drain or outlet funnel is connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drain pipe.
An elbow is a part designed to create bends in a drainpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the base of the house. If the gutter and drainpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, due to which it is located far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe fits vertically into it, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the drainpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and drainpipe holders will be attached.

Holder brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and select the optimal installation step.
Clamp brackets for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200÷1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. There can be two or one of them installed on each slope.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a reserve, taking into account the fact that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools required for work

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required to install the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the drainage structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not be very neat and will have to be cleaned.
Cutting scissors sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) – for fastening structural parts
A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing clamp brackets for a drainpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be necessary for metal structures.
A rubber hammer (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
Construction level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
A reliable stepladder or scaffolding – for ease of work and ensuring its safety.

Prices for a hacksaw for metal

hacksaw for metal

In this same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a grinder (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When making a cut with a grinder, the metal or plastic becomes very hot. This leads to burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, polymer protective layer, applied to a metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off at a distance of even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the parts drains only with those tools that are indicated above.

We believe that everything necessary for installing a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to consideration of installation work.

Sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing pie is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix short holders on the wind board. Moreover, it should be noted that many roofers consider the short version of hooks to be more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

There is no need to bend the short holders, as they are already ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, you can do the work yourself without calling in the experts.
The cost of short holders is slightly lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended to first draw up a drainage plan. In this case, we will consider a system with one funnel and a drainpipe.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Marking begins by determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After this, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the front board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the drainpipe is planned to be installed. Using a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To make the task easier, you can take tinted paint cord. A cord tied to a nail is stretched along the length of the wind board to a mark made on the opposite side.
	Next, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to mark off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4÷5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28÷35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is drawn. The marking can be done a little differently. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The remaining actions are carried out in the same way as in the first markup option. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets at the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help secure the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact point of attachment for fixing the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. Their number may be greater - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer to secure the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord in the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and once again checked that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the gutter without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a batten on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30÷40 mm. This parameter is important because if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding off the covering will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case it is convenient metal version bracket, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn diagram, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and drainpipe. The hole size must match the diameter of the drain pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation is to attach a funnel to the hole in the gutter and hook it with the folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has “ears” that need to be bent inside the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter into the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and is bent away from it. This way, you will get the most reliable connection between two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed to the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation simpler, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is cutting the seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers; in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals can come complete with the drainage system or they can be purchased separately in the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be placed in the grooves along the edge of the plug that will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration the second side of this gutter will be joined to another segment going around the corner.
	The plug is then installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with a seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, with which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit tightly into place.
	Instead of rubber sealant, you can use roofing sealant, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the cap. Then, another layer must be applied after combining them on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install the seal, and then additionally apply a layer of roofing sealant from the inside of the gutter. While the sealant has not lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in a soap solution. Such a seal will not be visible from the outside and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets attached to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, you need to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. To avoid cutting the gutter with the funnel and cap installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press it so that the outer bend of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snapped into place almost identically.
	At the junction of two sections of gutters when they are installed in brackets, a clamp is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps onto the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is inserted behind the back wall of the joint and placed on top of its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the inside of the gutter joint is coated with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer and then smoothed with your finger, as it should not create obstacles to the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways to join two sections of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided for by the design. The first of them is described above - this is the latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the clamp to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If a riveter is on the list of household tools, it will significantly speed up and simplify any installation work involving thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and is much easier to install, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, on its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be bent a little. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, additionally, between the brackets for holding the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the wind board, hooked only to the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the support brackets, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to installing the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow into the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60÷70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The elbow is placed on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the drainpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two elbows. To the resulting value you need to add 35÷40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Next, the segment is put on top of the elbow installed on the funnel, and the second elbow of the structure is put on its other side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leakage of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must fit inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be attached to its lower end, which will set the direction of the water flow passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to take into account that 80 mm of the resulting size will be used to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard length of the pipe, as well as the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and install brackets for the vertical pipe into the wall or secure it to it. They are installed in increments of 1200÷1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints also need to be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after clamps have been secured to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, the drainage can be immediately fixed in the brackets.
	When assembling the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the upper section of pipe is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly through bends, which can be made using pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can only be performed if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	To complete the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150÷300 mm from the blind area. If under drainage pipe If you plan to install or have already installed a drainage system or storm sewer, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm drain.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will suit the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the craftsman in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

Any building needs high-quality removal of precipitation. The roof itself is airtight, and storm water and snow escape thanks to the slopes. But if flowing moisture gets onto the façade or foundation of the building, they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. This is a protective structure consisting of a system of gutters located around the perimeter of the roof and drain pipes.

Why do you need a drain?

An external drain is a set of open gutters that collect moisture from the roof and direct it into vertical outlet pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with water collection tanks or storm drains.

The gutter protects the house from the destructive effects of moisture

Gutter functions

The drain performs the following functions:

Protective. Consists in abduction Wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
Decorative. A beautiful homemade drain will decorate your home or gazebo.
Cumulative. With such a system storm water you can fill a special tank for irrigation.

Industrial drains are made from special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and elbows, the price will double. Ready-made parts have their advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a construction set. To save money, craftsmen found an alternative and began to make their own drainage systems from improvised materials, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if you already have a house or cottage, but there is no drain there, then you can take the risk of making it yourself.

A homemade drain can last for many years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a homemade drain can be used as the main one.

Types of drains

There are such types of drainage:

External or external. This type is suitable for self-installation.
Internal, which is included in the project. Most often this type is installed on flat roofs, pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble drip systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now the range suitable materials increased significantly:

Gutters made of galvanized steel. They are durable, reliable, resistant to loads and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and susceptibility to corrosion.
Galvanized steel is one of the most popular materials for gutters
PVC drip systems. They are lightweight and low noise, easy to assemble and withstand temperature changes well.
PVC drain - reliable and silent
Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for industrial PVC drains.
Sewer pipes - excellent material for drainage
Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will require special clay and pottery skills.
Ceramic pipes are very durable
Castings from plastic bottles. Quick to install, but suitable as a temporary alternative.
Bottle plastic is the most affordable material for creating drainage
Wooden gutters. They are made by hand and last a long time only with special treatment.
Wooden gutters are very decorative
Copper drains. Suitable for long-term use, but over time they become covered with patina.
Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

To make a standard drainage system yourself, plastic sewer pipes are often used. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

affordable price;
a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as all kinds of fastening mechanisms;
light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
possibility of self-cutting;
durability.

Since such pipes come in different colors, you need to figure out which ones are recommended to be used for arranging a drainage system:

How to make a drain with your own hands

Before purchasing pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their quantity:

The cross-section of the pipes is selected based on the area of the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
more than 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The remaining elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before purchasing materials and installing a drain, it is necessary to draw a detailed diagram, which should indicate:

roof perimeter;
length and number of gutters;
mounting points for brackets, joints and funnels;
location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the pipe footage for future gutters is determined. Since it is sawn in half and two pieces are made from one piece, the required length of the pipes will be equal to half the perimeter of the roof. Next, the number of drainage risers is calculated. To do this, a plan is drawn on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of gutters, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the eaves overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the drainage riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the required pipe length is obtained. Next in the project are the tees connecting the gutters and risers. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. A special universal joint sealant is also required.

Tools for work

To work you need:

wood screws;
screwdriver;
grinder, jigsaw;
hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
construction cord;
level and tape measure;

You will also need scaffolding.

Construction of a drainage system

After acquiring the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Creating gutters

To make a gutter from the pipe, it should be sawed in half. This can be done with a grinder, choosing a diamond-coated disk with segments. Then the plastic will not melt when cut. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to construct something like a guide and secure it to the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can also be done with a simple hacksaw. The guide can be a ruler attached to the workpiece with tape, or a thread stretched over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe at both ends. The sections of pipe entering the tee are not sawn. This guarantees reliable connections.

From one plastic pipe it turns out two drainage gutters

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make them yourself from strips of sheet metal, bending them to fit the gutter. The bracket is the basic component of an exterior drain that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, the configuration of the water intake circuit is formed.
The brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can purchase ready-made strips for electrical installation work. Their cross-section is initially suitable; all that remains is to cut the workpieces to length.
Workpiece size:

To ensure that all brackets are the same, you can use a device for bending steel strips or steel pipe the desired size as a template. It is also recommended to hammer nails on a thick board in the required sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After giving the shape, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with anti-rust paint - it is more durable. The brackets are attached in several ways:

The brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

The two outer brackets are attached first, between which the required slope is maintained.
The two outer brackets are attached first
A cord is stretched between the fixed brackets, and places for attaching all other elements are marked along this straight line.
The brackets are screwed to the base in increments of 550–600 mm.
A distance of 5–6 cm is maintained between the brackets
The next thing to install are plastic adapters or funnels for the future drain. One funnel is capable of collecting water from 120 m of roofing.
The hole for installing the funnel is cut using a hacksaw
Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to connect the joints correctly. They are attached with glue or joined using special aluminum clips. In case of joining, it is necessary to use a sealant. The mounting height of the brackets depends on the region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it wherever it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that snow falling from the roof does not take the gutter with it.
Gutters are joined with clips or placed with glue
When the gutters are assembled and lie on the brackets, adapter pipes from solid pieces of pipe are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before this, they are treated with sealant. A plug must be installed at the upper end of the drain system.
The plug is installed on the rubber seal

Video: installing curtain rod brackets

Installation of external drainage risers

Assembling downspouts looks the same as joining gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed between the sections on the sealant. The process requires compliance with a number of rules:

the drainpipe should extend 10 cm from the wall;
for fastening to walls you need to use clamps;
the pipe should be installed from top to bottom;
Insert the upper section into the funnel and secure with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to an adapter for storm drainage. It is recommended to replace it with an elbow, under which a container is placed for draining water.

The installation of the drainpipe must be carried out in accordance with the rules

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished drain from litter by installing a rolled-up product in the gutters. construction mesh. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutters are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clamps.

The drain can be protected with a mesh made of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade gutter made of galvanized steel

Creating a drainage system made of galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Typically, roofing sheet steel 0.5–0.7 mm is used. It should not be less than 270 g per square meter. m.

Tools

You need to prepare:

metal scissors;
felt-tip pen for marking;
hammer and mallet;
pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of the drainage system and are very easy to make at home. Galvanized steel sheets or thin tin are suitable for work. The manufacturing method of these materials is the same.

It is easy to make a steel pipe yourself

Step-by-step instruction

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Calculation of the quantity of materials and their purchase.
The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per square meter. m
A sheet of metal laid on a flat surface is cut to the size of the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the pipe blank should have a margin of one and a half centimeters for connecting the edges. A rebate line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.
To make your drainpipe last longer, you can paint it.
Using pliers, the pattern is bent on the smaller side at an angle, and on the larger side - like the letter G.
The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should fit into the larger one.
The workpiece can be shaped into a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape manually using a template. A sheet of metal is placed on a pipe or log of the required diameter and tapped with a mallet.
You can shape the drainage pipe yourself

Installation of a steel drain

The principles of installing a drainage system made of galvanized metal are similar to installing a drainage system made of plastic pipes.

But there are also differences:
Once the starting point is determined, the gutter brackets are installed.
Metal gutters are laid with an overlap of 7–10 cm in length. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. The holes for the funnels are cut with metal scissors.
The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
The pipes are fixed with clamps.
The ebb is attached to the bottom of the pipe.

An anti-icing system is installed.

Video: constructing a metal drain

Drainage from plastic bottles The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from plastic containers. Accumulate required quantity similar material

It will be simple, but for the design you will need 1.5-liter straight bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

A drain made of bottle plastic is assembled very quickly and is cheap

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:
furniture stapler and staples 10–12 mm;
construction knife;
drill or screwdriver;
thin drill;
wire;
awl;

plastic container.

Step-by-step instructions for making castings from plastic bottles
The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
Bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels. Then the bottom and neck of the plastic container are cut off at the point where it narrows top part
. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.
A plastic bottle needs to be prepared to make a drainage system out of it.
The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and secured with two or three staples. The bottoms are used as plugs for rotary structures.
You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler
Drainage can also be easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one, and from the rest we make the already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut off neck will serve as an adapter - you will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.
The finished structure made from plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished design will last at least a year, but then you will have to take care of creating a more advanced system.

Video: gutter made of plastic bottles

Obviously, creating a drainage system yourself is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. About the features and installation procedure and we'll talk further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. Let them not be as attractive as more modern options, but reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about others metal systems, then two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, you can’t fault them in appearance, and in durability – it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet light, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Attached to funnels drainpipes. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the drain with your own hands, the most The best decision- have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, they will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate required amount elements.

Installation features

The most questions arise about the fastening of brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or special tool— hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are sold). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If it is not possible to lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, hand hacksaw a hole is cut out. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They come in different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

Articles By topic:

How and how long to bake beef Baking meat in the oven is popular among housewives. If all the rules are followed, the finished dish is served hot and cold, and slices are made for sandwiches. Beef in the oven will become a dish of the day if you pay attention to preparing the meat for baking. If you don't take into account	Why do the testicles itch and what can you do to get rid of the discomfort? Many men are interested in why their balls begin to itch and how to eliminate this cause. Some believe that this is due to uncomfortable underwear, while others think that it is due to irregular hygiene. One way or another, this problem needs to be solved.
Why do eggs itch? Minced meat for beef and pork cutlets: recipe with photos	Until recently, I prepared cutlets only from homemade minced meat. But just the other day I tried to cook them from a piece of beef tenderloin, and to be honest, I really liked them and my whole family liked them. In order to get cutlets Schemes for launching spacecraft Orbits of artificial Earth satellites

1 2 3 Ptuf 53 · 10-09-2014 The union is certainly good. but the cost of removing 1 kg of cargo is still prohibitive. Previously, we discussed methods of delivering people into orbit, but I would like to discuss alternative methods of delivering cargo to rockets (agree with

2024-04-21 02:23:23	Popular
2024-04-14 02:26:43	Popular
2024-04-13 02:40:32	Yu. Andreev - Live Journal! Andreev Yu.A. Yuri Andreev: biography
2024-04-12 02:26:50	Master class for teachers on the topic “Creating electronic tests”; methodological development on technology on the topic
2024-04-10 02:23:37	Master class for teachers on the topic “Creating electronic tests”; methodological development on technology on the topic
2024-04-08 02:21:43	The benefits and harms of protein for the body
2024-04-05 02:30:06	Miller's dream book: distinctive features and characteristic features See dream book interpretation of Miller's dreams
2024-04-05 02:30:06	Recipes for lavash rolls with different fillings (photo)
2024-04-01 02:23:38	Recipes for lavash rolls with different fillings (photo)
2024-03-31 02:28:43	Organs of flowering plants Plant organs and their functions presentation

The structure of the molecule of ice and water vapor drawing

2024-03-29 02:26:33	New
2024-03-29 02:26:33	Ivan Krylov the best fables for children Various fables are interesting and easy to read
2024-03-28 06:32:57	Organs of flowering plants Plant organs and their functions presentation
2024-03-28 06:32:57	The Life of Saint Veronica in Orthodoxy
2024-03-26 02:24:23	The Life of Saint Veronica in Orthodoxy
2024-03-24 02:29:32	An interesting story about yourself (All about myself)
2024-05-31 02:21:07	How and how much to bake beef
2024-05-23 02:16:29	Why do the testicles itch and what can you do to get rid of the discomfort?
2024-05-10 02:22:08	Minced meat for beef and pork cutlets: recipe with photo
2024-05-02 02:14:23	Schemes for launching spacecraft Orbits of artificial Earth satellites
2024-04-21 02:23:23	Popular
2024-04-14 02:26:43	Popular