Steel tool for engraving cutter 7 letters. Special engraving tool. Transferring a complex image to metal
Delivery of orders is carried out through courier service and self-pickup. We work in cash and non-cash payments.
Pickup
Our address: Moscow st. Marksistskaya 34 building 4
Delivery by courier in Moscow and outside the Moscow Ring Road
Within 1-2 days the order is formed, then it is transferred to courier service. The delivery of the order itself is carried out within 1-2 days from the moment the order is received by the courier service. Moreover, before delivering the ordered goods, the courier will contact you by phone to agree on the date and time of delivery. Delivery is made daily from 9.00 to 21.00, but if necessary, the time can be selected individually, so call and ask!
- The cost of delivery in Moscow within the Moscow Ring Road is 400 rubles.
- The cost of delivery of an order by courier outside the Moscow Ring Road is 400 rubles. + 35 rub. for every kilometer from the Moscow Ring Road.
List of cities and areas to which delivery is carried out:
- 1st zone: up to 10 km from the Moscow Ring Road: Butovo, Zhulebino, Kosino, Mitino, Nizhneye Podrezkovo, Peredelkino, Solntsevo; Balashikha, Vidnoye, Gorki-6, Dzerzhinsky, Korolev, Mytishchi, Nemchinovka, Odintsovo, Reutov, Khimki.
- 2nd zone: 10 - 30 km from the Moscow Ring Road: Aprelevka, Vnukovo, Golitsino, Dedovsk, Dolgoprudny, Domodedovo, Zhavoronki, Zheleznodorozhny, Zhukovsky, Zelenograd, Ivanteevka, Klimovsk, Klyazma, Krasnogorsk, Kupavna, Lobnya, Lyubertsy, Naro-Fominsk, Nakhabino, Novopodrezkovo, Podolsk, Pushkino, Snegiri, Skhodnya, Tolstopaltsevo, Tomilino, Troitsk, Sheremetyevo, Shchelkovo, Shcherbinka.
- 3rd zone: 30 - 60 km from the Moscow Ring Road: Balabanovo, Barybino, Bronnitsy, Dmitrov, Zvenigorod, Iksha, Istra, Kubinka, Mikhnevo, Noginsk, New Jerusalem, Pavlovsky Posad, Ramenskoye, Sergiev Posad, Solnechnogorsk, Fryazevo, Khotkovo, Chernogolovka , Chekhov, Elektrostal, Yakhroma.
Delivery by transport company
Delivery of heavy and large-sized cargo (for example, machine tools, jigsaws, etc.) weighing more than 9 kg, as well as consignments of goods, is carried out using transport companies that have representative offices in Moscow (Autotrading, Business Lines, etc. .). Moreover, delivery through a transport company is made only with 100% prepayment to our bank account. An invoice or receipt for payment is sent to you by email.
The cost of the order will consist of the cost of the ordered goods + 250 rubles. (courier services for delivering cargo to transport company and sending the order). The services of the transport company are paid by you upon receipt of the order; their cost can be found on the website of the relevant transport company.
If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them and find a suitable solution to any problems!
Steel tool for engraving, cutter
The first letter is "sh"
Second letter "t"
Third letter "i"
The last letter of the letter is "b"
Answer for the question "Steel engraving tool, cutter", 7 letters:
shtikhel
Alternative questions in crossword puzzles for the word shtihel
Carver's tool
Engraver's tool
Engraving tool
Hand cutter for engraving in the form of a thin steel rod
Hand burin, used in engraving
Steel tools, used in engraving and woodcut
Definition of the word shtikhel in dictionaries
Big Soviet Encyclopedia
The meaning of the word in the dictionary Great Soviet Encyclopedia
(German: Stichel), engraving tool: a thin steel rod, cut at an angle at the end and sharpened; the other end is inserted into a wooden handle shaped like a mushroom cut off on the side. For engraving on metal, they usually use a rhombic...
New explanatory dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova.
The meaning of the word in the dictionary New explanatory dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova.
m. Engraving cutter.
Wikipedia
Meaning of the word in the Wikipedia dictionary
Stichel - cutting tool, steel cutter. Used when working with metal, wood, bone, stone, leather. Used for engraving. It is a thin steel rod, 120 mm long, one end of which is cut at an angle and sharpened....
Examples of the use of the word shtihel in literature.
And him shtikhel ran along the smooth, shiny copper surface, leaving behind a light trail.
At that time, it could not have occurred to Kiselev what kind of winding line the engraver would draw shtikhel in Ivan's mighty hand.
It should be noted that, unlike the stroke carried out with a graver, the etched line has the same thickness everywhere and does not have an edge.
Delicate dots on the face and naked body are applied directly to the board in a crooked dotted line. with a graver or a needle.
We talked about this and that, I played with some hint with a graver, looked around at the exposed stones, which were already ground, polished and were just waiting for the inscription to be knocked out on them.
Application to various items drawing by the method of removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.
With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone. New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for home handyman most suitable option is to master the manual method of drawing.
Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.
For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:
- Stichel.
- Metal blank.
- A vice or similar device for holding a workpiece stationary.
The blank for applying the pattern can be used from any metal, but for beginning craftsmen it is better to use aluminum or copper.
The graver is a rod up to 120 mm long. One end of this tool is cut at an angle and sharpened, the other is installed in a handle made of wood or plastic.
The graver can be of different shapes and also vary in width work surface. With absence of this instrument you can make it yourself if you have suitable materials for this purpose.
Making your own gravel
To make a gravel, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. To make a cutting surface, you can use old files and needle files, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.
The ideal material for making an engraving pen is P18 steel. From old circles for circular saws You can make a large number of blanks for the production of gravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle that will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.
The handle of the gravel is made of hardwood, and should be of such a width that the master can comfortably hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length of this part of the gravel is usually 50 mm.
A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several various options, and already in the process of work choose the most suitable option.
Preparation of the workpiece
First of all, you should select a blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:
- Sandpaper P400.
- GOI paste No. 1 or No. 2
First, the workpiece is polished using sandpaper. Then final polishing is carried out using GOI paste.
To avoid damage to the surface, when carrying out polishing works GOI paste, it is recommended to use this product only No. 1 or No. 2.
You should also do the following before finishing polishing with this product:
- Prepare a flannel cloth and moisten it with white spirit
- Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
- Wipe the unwanted area of metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that could scratch the surface.
After such preparation, the workpiece is polished using uniform circular movements. After completing polishing activities, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.
The process of engraving on metal
If you are engraving a metal surface for the first time, then before you start applying the main design, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.
The ideal option for such training is to use a copper plate. The piece of copper should be securely fastened to wooden board using screws with wide heads. When the workpiece is secured, the board is laid on the table, additional lighting is turned on if necessary, the cutting tool is clamped in the right hand, and an even notch is made on the metal surface.
To prevent your hand from slipping when making a straight line, on the surface of the metal plate thumbs left and right hand must be connected and touch the plate where the design is made. Forefinger the right hand, at this time, rests on the cutter of the tool, and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended to first make several straight parallel stripes on the workpiece. When the smooth areas look good, you can move on to making semicircular lines.
When your hand is already a little full, you can begin to engrave the design on the workpiece. To carry out this work, the metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device similar to the self-tapping locking mechanism described above should be made.
For engraving simple figures, initials and other simple images, you can start immediately after securing the metal object. If you need to make a complex drawing, it is recommended to first transfer the image to the workpiece.
Transferring a complex image to metal
The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:
- Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
- Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
- The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
- When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.
After correct execution Following the described actions, a drawing will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.
Other engraving methods
Except manual method engraving at home, you can carry out the following methods of changing the metal surface in relief:
- Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even if you have a regular table salt and a phone charger.
- Using a drill - this method is great for home use. The principle of removing metal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a burr, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin blade is used.
- - is the most advanced way of applying a pattern to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing pictures on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.
Conclusion
How to make engraving on metal and which method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for themselves. To begin with, it is recommended to purchase professional tool For self made. After working for a while with hand tools You can move on to mastering equipment that will significantly speed up the engraving process.
Engraving works [Techniques, techniques, products] Podolsky Yuri Fedorovich
Special engraving tool
When processing surfaces in an engraved part that has large area, the most labor-intensive operation is the removal of excess metal between drawings, letters or numbers. Defense work requires especially a lot of effort when metal has to be removed to great depths. To facilitate this work, special chisel different shapes and sizes. In Fig. 5, A such a chisel is depicted. Its profile must correspond to the sample form. For example, when selecting a flat area, a chisel type is used, when selecting a semicircular groove, a chisel type is used, etc. Sharpening and straightening chisels are no different from sharpening and straightening chisels. In Fig. 5, b a diagram of how such a tool works when removing metal from a workpiece to be engraved is shown: the chisel is guided with the left hand, and short blows with a hammer are applied to the back of the chisel with the right hand. The thickness of the cut chips is adjusted by tilting the chisel relative to the surface of the engraved product.
Chops(Fig. 5, V) are special hammer pickers that are used for the same work as gravers. The difference is that they cut with quills using only hand force, while the chopper is used by hitting the back of the head with a hammer, which also significantly speeds up the process of removing large volumes of metal. With the help of sections, not only engraving work is performed, but also sampling complex figures in molds and dies, and also produce notches of special needle files. Hammer engraving sections are made from bar tool steel U8 with a diameter of 8–10 mm and a length of 120–130 mm. On the workpiece, at a distance of 20–40 mm from the end, the sides of the cutting part are processed, and on lathe knurling is done on the tail section. Then the sections are heat-treated to a hardness of HRC 52–54, after which they are lightly sharpened to create the required shape. The length of the cutting edges of the sections should not exceed 8–10 millimeters.
Punches and matics used at the final stage of engraving work.
Using punches, the simplest elements of a pattern in the form of petals, Christmas trees and all kinds of curls are knocked out in the metal. The relief image on the working part of the punch is cut out by the engraver himself using metallographic cutters. Before engraving, the metal of the punch is tempered, and upon completion it is hardened again.
After engraving of all kinds of seals and stamps is completed, the margins between the lines, letters and other symbols usually turn out uneven from blows with a pen. Beautiful appearance Products are given primer embossing or matics. Matics are mints with a corrugated notch on the working part, intended for textured processing of a metal surface, for example a background (Fig. 5, d). The material for their manufacture is square five-millimeter U8 steel rods. The back of these tools is made flat (under the blow of a hammer), and the working part on all four sides is filed slightly into a cone. At the end of this cone, intersecting recessed lines are engraved. The relief texture on the working end of the mat can be obtained in another way. The end part of the rod is placed on the notch of the file and a relief impression is obtained by hitting the striking part with a hammer. After machining matiki are hardened.
When making digital or letter punches and stamps, engravers use another type of tool - prisoners. Zeki various shapes used for internal removal of metal in letters and numbers. The convict is made from U8 grade square steel bar with a cross-section from 5 to 8 mm and a length of 60–70 mm. Using engraving, the working part of the cone is given the shape of the internal contour of the recess (for example, the letter O), and the side edges at the working end are filed down (Fig. 5, G). The striking part of the cone is trimmed, and the edges are filed down. After machining, the working end of the cone is subjected to heat treatment.
Rice. 5. Special engraving tool: A– chisel (collector); b– work as a collector; V- chops; G– zek for the letter O; d– matiki; e– spatial grinding square for finishing punches.
Except various kinds cutters, a variety of tools can be used in engraving stamps. A stamp is a tool for processing materials by pressure during plastic deformation (stamping) of a workpiece. The main elements of the stamp are the punch and the matrix. Punch - a stamp with a relief image of letters, signs, etc. for extruding an image in the manufacture of matrices for typesetting machines and other products.
In order to big number numbers, letters and other signs measuring from 1.5 to 10 mm should not be engraved by hand; on stamps, tables or nameplates they are filled with various punches, sets of which engravers usually make themselves. Larger numbers and letters are stamped on the press with special stamps. The sharpening angle of the punch must be exactly 90° relative to its axis, therefore, when making punches, to control the perpendicularity of the working surface to the punch axis, you should use a spatial square (Fig. 5, e). The blank of the future punch is pressed tightly by hand to inner corner square, place it on a finishing block and, pressing it to the surface, make straight-line movements until a uniform shine appears on the working surface of the punch over the entire area.
Finishing of complex concave surfaces is carried out grooved, which are files and needle files with different bending radii, profiles and notches of different frequencies. Before giving the needle file the intended shape, it is heated red-hot over a fire, then allowed to cool slowly and its working part is wrapped in insulation. This is necessary so as not to damage the notch when bending. The file shank is clamped in a vice and the working part is bent with round pliers. You can use any other bending method, for example in a block. But in all cases you need to act carefully. Finished serrations are hardened in the same way as serger blades.
Scraper applicable for finishing metal surfaces, and to remove accidental cuts and scratches on the engraved surface. The most popular are triangular and tetrahedral scrapers. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made scraper, then it can be made from a triangular or tetrahedral file, grinding off the notch from it.
Polisher, also known as a smoothing pad or polishing pad, is intended for polishing individual areas of metal, especially after processing them with a scraper. The working part of this tool is used to carefully grind the surface, smoothing out traces of the cutter. The working part of the polisher must be thoroughly polished. Convenient, reliable spherical polishers can be made from balls from rolling bearings. The ball is welded to a steel shank rod, which is then placed on a wooden handle.
