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Interior decoration of houses made of timber. House made of timber with finishing Finishing of a house made of timber

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need external and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called laminated veneer lumber. This building material is really very beautiful and convenient. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried and impregnated protective compounds wood.

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set, by the way step-by-step instruction included with such sets. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality home without large cracks and distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. A ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, it only looks good on an advertising stand in a store, as soon as you put it into the coveted eco-friendly housing, it appearance It's unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And this is where it comes to the rescue warm finish facade of a timber house.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the overall shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” various kinds protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with simple flat timber, which at the time of construction has natural humidity. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the beginning finishing works, then many masters advise starting them after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house stand for at least a year and a half, or better yet, 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By and large, the same materials that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure are used to decorate a log house. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How can you get rid of timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases stone finishing wooden buildings from the outside it is limited only by the plinth. Plus a natural stone has a solid mass and needs to be equipped with an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as interior decoration, although in the case of wooden clapboard Such processing can also be carried out externally.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for interior cladding of services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. And here protective treatment in this case it is mandatory, and there is no need to save on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations with comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids By folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnations have dried, wooden wall fastened vapor barrier membrane. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses most often the lathing is made from metal UD and CD profiles, but for wooden walls it is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the slats, it is considered the thicker and stronger finishing, the wider you can take the step, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the sheathing in increments of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is diagonal laying lining, it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although for diagonal installation I don’t advise you to undertake this, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• Mineral wool is usually used as insulation for wooden structures. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Now is the time high quality for basalt cotton slabs;
• Thickness of cotton insulation for middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally than further north region, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding. For lining I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Wood varnishing rules

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the ordinary one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes it is necessary to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I believe that in this particular case there is more regular will do PSB-S25 foam, the effect is the same, but such foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy foam boards 50 mm thick.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the lower cut of the log, cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are packed; they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this, before railway sleepers soaked. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into the lower part of the groove of the board.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the “FK” brand with a thickness of 10–12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using it to create a base on the floor. chipboard sheets, at the slightest moisture they will swell and begin to peel off.

If wooden house erected on a concrete slab, there is less work here. You need to lay overlapping concrete on the walls. plastic film. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technologies described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in interfloor covering you definitely need to install some kind of sound insulator, the cheapest option is to take foam plastic, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it is fashionable to leave the load-bearing beams on the ceiling open. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

There are, of course, more multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard and suspended ceiling. But the installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience, and stretch ceiling This is a rather expensive thing and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only large sizes. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And do not forget that electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be routed into a metal conduit. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes; they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular method of interior finishing of a log house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet areas you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on traditional metal carcass, and on wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the spacing of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now get divorced finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often inside a log house or in the basement area, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously reinforced wooden base layered cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Our company performs interior finishing wooden houses Full construction. We do absolutely everything, and according to low prices. Look at our price list, order an individual calculation and make sure that our finishing prices are optimal. Moreover, all types of work are guaranteed.

Prices

Interior finishing work	m2/l.m.	Price
Installation of a subfloor from a 25x100 mm board		100 rubles
Installation of vapor barrier
Installation of 50 mm insulation
Installation of 100 mm insulation
Installation of floorboards (pine, spruce)		370 rubles
Installation of counter-lattice		100 rubles
Installation of plywood		200 rubles
Installation of underlay under laminate
Laminate installation		200 rubles
Installation of skirting boards
Ceiling lining with imitation timber		350 rubles
Painting the ceiling 1 layer (brush)		150 rubles
Installation of fillets
Installation of imitation timber on walls		300 rubles
Painting walls in 1 layer (brush)
Manufacturing frame partition 100 mm		250 rubles
Making waterproofing in the bathroom		100 rubles
Installation of masonry mesh		100 rubles
Laying tiles by gender		900 rubles
Window
Preparing window openings		550 rubles
Installation of accessories		200 rubles
Installation of PVC window blocks		2,000 rubles
Installation of window sills		400 rubles
Installation of platbands		100 rubles
Installation of ebb tides		100 rubles
Doors
Preparing doorways		550 rubles
Installation of accessories		200 rubles
Door installation		2,000 rubles
Insertion of hinges		300 rubles
Lock mortise		750 rubles
Installation of a metal entrance door		4,000 rubles
Installation of platbands		100 rubles
Ladder
Making stairs		45,000 rubles
Installation of attic stairs		4,000 rudders
Manufacturing of the entrance group		25,000 rubles

When choosing a log house, the developer is primarily guided by the affordability of the price and short installation time. But the next most important issue is the environmental friendliness of the material. And if we talk about construction country houses, then it is this factor that becomes decisive. IN Lately industry ready-made cottages from wood has emerged into a completely independent direction called “eco-style”. Naturally, the main task of finishing work in a wooden house is to preserve the beauty and purity that nature so generously shares with us. To do this, it is necessary to exclude the use of materials with synthetic and polymer components, which can negate all the beneficial properties of wood. Nothing should disturb the natural air exchange and healthy microclimate, which is created in the house thanks to wood. If you need high-quality interior decoration for a house made of timber, contact our company! We do absolutely everything!

Our services:

• installation of a water supply system;
• installation of a sewerage system;
• finishing of walls, floors, ceilings;
• installation of window and door units;
• production and installation of stairs.

Traditional design solution for interior decoration of houses made of timber, can be called normal application antiseptics, varnishes or primers on the surface of the timber. Recently, impregnations based on natural oils and wax. They not only reliably protect wood from ultraviolet radiation and from the appearance of fungi and mold, but also give the surface characteristic shades.

Also for interior decoration timber houses paints are widely used water based. With their help, surfaces of any color are obtained, preserving the natural texture of wood. Use not recommended vinyl wallpaper, plastic lining, linoleum and everything else that can worsen natural properties timber.

Services	Price
window frame	prices from 4,000 rub.
Door frame	prices from 4,500 rub.
Met. tiles (without insulation)	prices from 1200 rub./m2
Met. tiles (with insulation)	prices from 1300 rub./m2
Natural tiles(with insulation)	prices from 1,600 rub./m2
Painting	90-100 rub./m2 layer
Log skin	prices from 250 rub. /m2
Installation of platbands	from 1,000 rubles side
Lining, imitation timber	350-400 rub./m2
Subfloor - plywood	250-300 rub./m2
Clean floor	300-400 rub./m2
Assembling a log house	2900-3200 RUR/m2
Sanding the exterior walls of a house	from 250 rub./m2
Treating wood with antiseptic primer	70 rub./m2
Removing the pile manually using a sanding block 98x69 (to prevent moisture from entering through the pile)	80 rub./m2
Grinding the end cuts at home with the application of face oil. cuts (calculation after the fact)	from 350 rub./m2

If you think that by building a house, you get your dream ready-made, then this is not so. An important place in a wooden house is occupied by internal processing and the cost of finishing a wooden house. The craftsmen of our company have many years of experience in finishing a wooden house and related work in this area; they can do a lot and know a lot.

What does the home you've always dreamed of look like? Usually our consciousness displays some kind of abstract picture, in which there is definitely no place for the materials from which the façade of a wooden house will be finished, and you most likely have a very poor idea of ​​what your interior rooms in your wooden house will be like. On the market building materials Currently there is a huge variety of products available. In order not to get confused in independent choice the required material, our company offers to do this for you, so as not to get confused in the order of prices, you can see the table above. And then we will execute high-quality finishing at a low price, naturally, taking into account all the wishes of clients. If you want to decorate your house on a professional level, then this work is divided into several parts. How much each work service will cost can be seen in the cost table.

Finish turnkey from the inside. How to create comfort with finishing?

The first thing that needs to be achieved when finishing a wooden house is to give it warmth and comfort. The interior decoration of a wooden house Moscow, buildings (houses, baths) is divided into the following parts:

• Initially ready house subjected to grinding. This is the least expensive part of the work
• Next, the internal partitions of the wooden house are installed, which will form the frame.
• Afterwards, the house is insulated and the necessary waterproofing is carried out.
• Ceiling finishing is usually done using lining.
• The walls of a wooden house are also treated using clapboard or other material is used for this.
• The floor finishes are made with laminate.

Lining is the most profitable and comfortable material to decorate the cottage. In addition, the lining is environmentally friendly, it has high performance on thermal conductivity and sound insulation. With the help of lining you can decorate both a cottage and a bathhouse. Well, there is no doubt about the pleasant appearance of the lining. You will have a pleasant time in such a bathhouse!

Our company also provides services such as coating wooden log house special protection, and we also provide painting of the building; you can place an order or see prices for these services on our website.

Turnkey finishing of the outside of a wooden house. What appearance will the house have?

Decorating the outside of a house is not only about creating a beautiful and presentable appearance, but also about protecting the building from bad weather, which happens very often.

Exterior finishing wood panels consists of the following steps:

• Installation of a wooden frame. It is necessary in order to prevent distortion of the door and window openings during the shrinkage of the entire house. Typically, this service can be arranged immediately after construction is completed. Prices can be viewed on the website.
• Caulk at home. This is one of the options for its insulation. As many years of practice have shown, it is the most proven option. Caulking is not only reliable, but also quite affordable, which is important for many. If you wish, you can call our company to calculate more detailed prices.
• Painting and sanding houses using antiseptic solutions. Grinding combines several tasks at once. First of all, it makes the house beautiful. And also with such wall decoration, you can subsequently apply paint or varnish in an even layer. To pick up the right paint, it is necessary to take into account that the house must “breathe”. Accordingly, the price of painting a house will directly depend on the price of materials and the amount of work.
• Insulate the house inside by insulating all the walls in the house
• Finishing a wooden house from the outside with siding. Internal processing walls of a wooden house with clapboard or other materials. Finishing baths and saunas is also usually done using lining, which is convenient and practical and at a low cost.

How to determine finishing prices?

Our company trusts only reliable suppliers of materials at affordable prices, who, thanks to long-term cooperation, provide us with a 20% discount on the cost of materials. Therefore, we can afford to significantly reduce the cost of repair work so that you can place an order at affordable prices without losing the quality of the home’s finishing. You can find out the prices in the corresponding section of our portal; there is also the price at which wooden structures and baths are finished. The final cost can be made upon request from our managers. We will create comfort in your home!

Treatment wooden structure- no less important process than building a house as a whole. Therefore, it is recommended to pay no less attention to him. Only in this case the house will end up being priced at a price that suits you. In Moscow, finishing of a wooden house can be external and internal.

Of these two types, the cost of finishing is the external one, which is considered the most important, because... it not only fulfills its direct task - it provides beautiful view, but also carries out protective function. Therefore, it should be thought about at a time when the house exists only as a project.

Features and cost of finishing a wooden house from the outside on a turnkey basis inexpensively

The most popular finishing material is siding. The house can be made of polymer raw materials, as well as steel, copper or aluminum. The cost of finishing with siding is very low and is easy to do. This finish also has a pleasant appearance. In addition, siding has several advantages: This finish has long term operation, it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, as well as dust or bad weather. One more practical material The material used to decorate the house is lining. And in last days Special home finishings that imitate a log look are very popular among consumers. Insulation as finishing for a wooden house includes a layer of insulation, which increases its thermal insulation performance. Prices for this service can be viewed on the website.

It should be borne in mind that the external decoration of a wooden house not only changes the appearance of the house, but also completely protects it from the vagaries of nature and the impact environment. If you want a change, or the finish has become outdated or unsuitable, our finish can easily be replaced with a new one. What is definitely not advisable to use as a finishing material is plaster. In this case, the house simply will not “breathe,” which will lead to the fact that sooner or later the wood will begin to crack.

You may not use any materials at all for exterior finishing. But for this it is necessary to treat the timber with a special solution. And this needs to be done once every five years, at least. Otherwise, your home may be susceptible to infestation by insects, bacteria, or mold.

Turnkey interior finishing of a wooden house

Before you start internal work related to finishing, it is necessary to process the wood from the inside. After the log house is finished, it is thoroughly cleaned and then sanded inside. After this, the wood is coated with protective solutions, in several layers. To give maximum smoothness to the walls, they can be coated with the appropriate composition. To make a house seem made of wooden walls and inside, it is necessary to achieve this effect using a special coating that gives the appearance of pure wood. You can also apply artificial cracks and scratches for even greater aesthetics, as happens on real wood.

And after that, you can use a flight of fancy on the topic of what my house will look like inside.

If you want to achieve absolute smoothness of the walls and tint them, then you need to take into account the fact that the toner will look different depending on the type of wood. To achieve the desired shade, apply the paint with one brush, twice and in one direction. First apply a lighter tone, and then move on to a darker one. At the same time, you should not completely smooth over the natural color of the wood. You just need to emphasize it effectively. But which color to choose - smooth glossy or matte - is at your discretion.

During the finishing of the house, it is advisable to keep general style and home trend. The natural shade of wood can be combined with other decorative materials that have different prices. It could be stone, ceramics, the same wood, but of a different species, etc. The flooring is usually covered with cedar or larch materials, which are the most practical in combination with a beautiful appearance.

At the same time, the floor finishing should be in harmony with the walls, otherwise a single composition will definitely not work. The floor can be tinted; this service also has its own cost. In this case, the color used is usually darker than the one used for the walls. All together this will not greatly affect prices.

It should be noted that when carrying out work, no matter internal or external, we do not recommend saving on materials, or limiting ourselves to just one stage. This approach can not only disrupt the appearance, but also affect the durability of the entire house for the worse. Quality work can be purchased at construction company"Century House", the price will pleasantly surprise you. Before placing an order for affordable prices with us, familiarize yourself with the price list of the cost of finishing, our consultants will tell you how our prices are formed, and you can easily make sure that with our finishing wooden houses can be done very cheaply.

Qualitative timber house with finishingFull construction Busy people who don’t have time to do repairs on their own prefer to purchase. In this case, for a relatively small additional payment, the client will receive a cottage with fully finished interior decoration. You will need to bring furniture, arrange it to your liking and you can start living in this wonderful house.

The company SK Domostroy offers its clients the construction of turnkey houses according to the most favorable prices. You can see photos of the interior decoration of the house on the website.

How is the interior finishing of houses made of timber carried out at SK Domostroy?

Interior decoration of a house made of profiled timber at SK Domostroy, construction begins only after the house has completely settled. Only then can you begin installing doors and windows and other types of finishing work.

For example, only environmentally friendly materials are used for repairs. clean materials, which will not harm the health and life of customers. All work carried out is agreed upon with the client, and he can independently monitor the progress of all operations performed.

We bring to your attention a catalog of houses made of timber. Various configurations and parameters of buildings will allow you to choose the project you like best and complete it turnkey in a short time.

Houses made of timber are different:

Reliability

High strength and resistance of wood to external influences make timber construction one of the most popular options. To ensure effective thermal insulation and structural rigidity, during construction, a profiled beam is used, which has two longitudinal protrusions on the upper mounting plane and two symmetrical grooves on the lower one, and the use of inter-crown insulation made of flax jute eliminates the formation of cracks.

Security

Environmentally friendly materials used in the construction of residential cottages make a log house safe for health. For an additional fee, wood can be treated by impregnation with special anti-flammable and antibacterial compounds.

Speed ​​of construction

The average construction time for a house is 3 weeks (may vary depending on the complexity of the project). Thanks to modern technologies construction, in such a short time it is possible to install a full-fledged foundation and a two-story building with a finished roof.

No company can offer better quality and fast construction residential buildings. The price of a house made of timber is determined by the thickness of the walls; we offer 3 options for the thickness of planed timber: 100mm, 150mm and 200mm. both in the form of a standard rectangular profile and with a semicircular outer surface, while the cost of a house made from this material does not change. Careful design of timber construction projects allows you to quickly adapt to the features of the landscape.