Attaching plasterboard to a wooden ceiling: methods for installing a frame made of wood and metal profiles. Wooden frame for drywall - erected quickly and easily! Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard
Wall cladding with plasterboard involves the installation or wooden beams. Metal lathing is predominantly used; it is more durable and more practical.
In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden blocks with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire-retardant compounds, to construct the frame. In places with high humidity, and also where it is required to increase the fire resistance of structures, it is used only metal carcass.
What kind of timber is needed
For the construction of wooden frames, choose timber with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, absence of cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.
What kind of fasteners and connection methods are needed?
The connection of frame parts, their fastening to the wall and ceiling is carried out dowel-nails. IN concrete surfaces The holes are first made using a hammer drill with a drill whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.
TO additional elements fasteners can be attributed metal corners . They are joined vertical racks with horizontal ones. The guide wooden beams are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).
The metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings
Connecting elements wooden frame perform with each other self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. Installation of beams on the wall is done with an indentation from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when starting bars are not needed, and vertical posts are mounted directly on the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled using special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.
Requirements for materials and rules of work
The design and construction code of practice contains the basic requirements that must be met to create a strong frame and subsequently place the sheets. Here are the main ones:
- All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
- In the space between the frame and the rough base, where operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, and fire insulating material;
- Water absorption of waterproof and water-fire-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
- GKLVO sheets (moisture- and fire-resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not exceeding 90% and temperatures not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, and paints are used to treat the surface;
- To fasten gypsum board sheets with a thickness of no more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, with a thickness of up to 24 mm - TN45;
- When placing sheets longitudinally, the step of their fastening is no more than 60 cm, when placing sheets transversely - no more than 1.25 m;
- To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide beams, ceiling and floor;
- The sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (spaced apart) with a distance from the edges of 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm (cut edge);
- The joints of the sheets, if they are located vertically, should fall on the center of the racks; if they are positioned horizontally, they should fall on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
- The pitch of the supporting beams on the ceiling is 50 cm for a transverse gypsum board arrangement, 40 cm for a vertical one;
- The spacing of gypsum board fastening on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.
Step-by-step construction instructions
Installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after completion of the wet processes and before assembling the finished floor, on the ceiling - after completion of finishing and laying engineering communications. All work is carried out in the following order:
- Marking;
- Frame assembly;
- Installation of sheets;
- Finishing work.
1. Marking
On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is marked with a tapping cord, taking into account their thickness. Transfer of marks between the floor and ceiling is carried out laser level or a magnetic plumb line. At the same time, mark the location doorways, places for attaching vertical posts, taking into account the selected pitch.
Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.
2. Frame assembly
Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are secured with dowel nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars adjacent to the walls are installed. Their length should be such that they fit tightly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of the room should be framed around the perimeter.
The insulation is embedded in the frame
Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you need to take this into account at the calculation stage, placing the starting beam at the required distance from the wall.
At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity to the structure, it is reinforced with horizontally located posts between them.
Laying communications
If you plan to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.
3. Installation of sheets
The sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, secured with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in vertical and horizontal plane(alternately). The screw caps are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor and is subsequently sealed with sealant.
Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, positioned at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.
Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are treated using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces finishing surface of the sheets with subsequent placement of the facing material.
Drywall today occupies a place of honor and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often partitions are built to remodel an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: gypsum boards are quite lightweight, construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.
Plasterboard partitions
Pine is often used as a material for making a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?
The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the piping. The beams are attached in the following order: ceiling-floor-walls. If the room has wooden floors, then it is easy to fasten the beams with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then fastening will be a little more difficult. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.
It is recommended to start fastening from the ceiling, having previously marked the location of the future partition. Once the beams are secured to the ceiling, you can apply markings to the floor and continue fastening. It is important to make the markings correctly; you can use a level or laser level.
When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can make more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After floor beam fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.
Once you are sure of the accuracy of the fastenings, you can proceed to attaching the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling to the floor with vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is the vertical posts that will bear the main load, so it is extremely important to secure them well. It is equally important to maintain the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.
Before you start strengthening the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.
If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials ( cellular concrete, drywall and so on), you need dowels yourself big size. The use of both dowel nails and special dowels is permitted. The following fastening option is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can later screw screws or hammer nails.
Another way to attach the harness: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and secure the beams with their help. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.
Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to installing the racks. Usually the distance between the posts is 60 cm, this is very convenient - subsequently gypsum board standard width(120 cm) can be mounted on 2 posts, making it easier to install drywall.
Installation of racks is carried out using wooden blocks, screwed to the rack and frame using screws. You can also attach racks with metal corners.
If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as lintels horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is great. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective pipe or use a tin box.
Partition insulation: nuances
Sometimes a building cannot do without additional insulation, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation insulating materials carried out when one side of the wooden frame is covered with plasterboard. Optimal material isolation is considered mineral wool and foam materials.
Insulation is quite easy, since the dimensions of the distance between the posts and the materials are the same. All that remains is to lay the material and secure it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be done on the inside of the already lined partition. If cavities form during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.
Often, during the process of facing the second side with slabs, a problem arises in the racks in the form of cracks. This happens for a reason large number screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the slabs on the walls are made with opposite sides(for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd - on the right).
It is important to remember that you need to leave a small gap of 1-2 cm between the ceiling and the top of the plasterboard. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable; it can be easily closed with a simple baseboard.
Extended septum
There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double frame made of wood. The advantage of this type of design is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.
The difference between the construction of an expanded partition is that the piping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. The wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the cladding is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.
If there is a need to install a battery, then it should be installed not in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the holes for ventilation, then they need to be covered with plastic grilles. You need to remember that if you are installing a battery, you cannot insulate the partition with foam rubber or polystyrene. Mineral wool will do the job perfectly. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.
Installation on an uneven wall
A room may not always have perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks somewhat different. You should start by identifying irregularities: the timber is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the marking for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack beam must be pressed vertically against the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end behind its exit on the floor.
It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical beams will then be attached to it. To level the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.
Installation of drywall can be done with your own hands, having an idea of what should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions; there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Everything you need to do before the process necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on all the materials and tools that will be needed. For example:
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- hacksaw;
- metal scissors;
- drill;
- level.
But perhaps the most important point in the construction plasterboard partition- This is the documentation for the permit. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.
Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. To create a frame base for gypsum boards, you can use wooden or metal profiles.
Most often, a metal frame is used in repair work, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for plasterboard is often used. Wood is environmentally friendly clean material and this is another reason why many prefer it as a basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.
In order for a wooden structure in a house to last a long time, the wood must be properly prepared. This material is very susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from coniferous trees.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. To do this, wooden slats are treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:
- damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence the tree deteriorates very quickly;
- the risk of damage to the tree by wood insects that use wood as food;
- biological decay;
- damage to beams by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country house.
Today the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But sodium fluoride is considered the best. It penetrates very deeply into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.
It is worth noting that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is an excellent advantage for treating wooden beams and slats with this substance at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium fluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood processing.
It is strictly prohibited to use in residential areas the following types oil antiseptics:
- coal;
- creosote;
- anthracene oils;
- shale.
When treating wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!
Before installing wooden planks, the slats should be in the room where they will be attached for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of high-quality lumber, which must meet the requirements fire safety and humidity.
The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a fire retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.
Create a drawing
Before you start installation wooden elements design, a drawing should be drawn.
It is created as follows:
- measure the length of the room;
- measure the height of the room;
- we multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
- Next, we measure the perimeter of windows and doorways in the same way and put them on the drawing.
Drawing
By creating a diagram, you can assess the range of work to be done and decide on the amount of materials. With it you will make the right frame, and you will not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.
Tools for work
You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- construction knife;
- concrete drill with impact drill;
Tools
- wood hacksaw;
- plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
- building level;
- screwdriver, crowbar;
- brackets, dowels and screws.
With this toolkit at hand, making a wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.
Installation work
Installation of a wooden structure under drywall involves the following processes:
- tracing (marking) of the wall. We apply all the elements of the drawing to the wall;
- We measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it by the width of the gypsum board. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. Mark a point on the floor;
- connecting these two points, you get the first line;
- then we repeat the procedure;
Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the gypsum board sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from the given point.
- then we begin to install the frame. We fasten the beams along the lines. Bend wooden beams you shouldn’t, otherwise they can simply be broken. You can fasten it with both self-tapping screws and tenons (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
- We attach solid beams along the walls and ceiling. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer be possible. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
- Along the floor, the beams are allowed to diverge in both directions from the doorway;
- when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
- Next we install the vertical slats. We install the slats strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is a little uneven. But don't overdo it, or it will break.
Finished frame
Note! In order to do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of cladding and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:
- It is necessary to install two risers on the sides of the opening. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm larger than the width of the door itself door frame;
- we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
- at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
- We connect the jumper to the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for attaching drywall sheets in the future;
- Next we attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
- in the case where the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the plasterboard sheet, we make a horizontal jumper to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.
Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the ceiling, you need to attach plasterboard sheet and at the place of its edge, nail the jumper so that it extends to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand, metal corners and overlays should be used at the junction of the beams, which are designed to collect rafter systems. This way you will prevent mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its parts should be checked during installation. building level. The racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers must go horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fits on the wall. As a result, you will not only save time, but also reduce material consumption.
Wooden sheathing for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will succeed in even the most complex elements.
Drywall is great for interior decoration walls With its help you can do absolutely smooth walls, while only a true professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Drywall is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.
There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. In this way, you can hide communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as provide additional heat and sound insulation.
Tools and materials:
- Reiki from soft varieties wood. Optimal cross section 100×50 mm or 75×50 mm, but smaller is possible.
- Drywall screws
- Screwdriver
- Dowels for wall mounting
- Drill
Advice. Under sheets of drywall you can lay sound and thermal insulation material. For greater effect, you can use thermal insulating plasterboard.
Process:
- Using chalk, draw marking lines for attaching slats around the perimeter of the wall and for vertical slats. Calculate the spacing between vertical slats so that the edges of each sheet of drywall fall in the middle of the next slats. Use a saw to cut the slats to the required length.
- We attach the slats to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
- Install spacers between the attached racks of those wooden slats. They must be adjusted to the size of the plasterboard sheets so that the joints between the sheets fall in the middle of the spacer. However, nail the slats onto different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive the nails into their ends.
- In those places where the slats do not fit tightly to the wall, place supports made from scraps of wood or drywall between them and the wall.
- When the base mesh is ready, we begin to attach the drywall. Let us remind you that its edges must pass exactly in the middle of the racks and spacers. It is best to use screws for fastening - they will reduce the risk of splitting the drywall. Mark the fasteners every 15 mm and so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. In areas where the sheet of drywall is too large, trim it to fit right size a hacksaw with fine teeth.
- We seal the joints between the sheets of drywall. Use adhesive reinforcement tape to seal the joints or regular tape and apply it with a small amount of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster and then with tape. Cover the top of the tape with putty so that you get a very sloping, invisible elevation along the seam. After sanding and painting it will not be noticeable.
- The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or do the usual finishing, for example, by gluing wallpaper.
