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DIY plasterboard partition: doors in the partition. How to make a plasterboard partition for zoning space with your own hands How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought perfectly smooth walls and didn’t think about it. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Attachment to frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we'll talk about the frame and mainly about the metal. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm — universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select ones that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level (of good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, attach it to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block. suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm, if small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing them inside wooden beam OK.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or at wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. AND wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build a metal frame filled with mineral wool and covered with gypsum board, that is, slabs with a gypsum core covered with durable construction cardboard. This is enough simple system, which you can install yourself. How to make a partition from plasterboard and profiles?

All about installing plasterboard partitions:

Which drywall is suitable?

First of all, you need to choose materials that suit your needs.

Kinds

For finishing city apartments and country houses the following types are used:

• Ordinary. It is intended for rooms where the water vapor content in the air is 30-60%.
• Moisture-resistant, easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
• Fire resistant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less often used in private homes. Meanwhile, impact-resistant material is a good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - children's rooms, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which you plan to hang heavy furniture.

GKL sizes

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

• Width 600 or 1200
• Length from 2000 to 4000
• Thickness 6.5; 8; 9.5; 12.5; 14; 16; 18; 20

The popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move on site. Experts recommend using slabs with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for cladding to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they insulate sound worse, and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers sheet material. The larger, the stronger and stiffer the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to its massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of ​​the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we do the cladding in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If in two layers, then in four. We divide this figure by the area of ​​one gypsum board. For example, for a product measuring 2500x1200 it is 3 m2. Don’t forget about the reserve, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round it to the nearest whole big side and get the required number of slabs.

How to choose profile sizes

Partitions are constructed from horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

• The cross-section of the guides is 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
• Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is selected based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the stand must fit tightly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections with a section of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save apartment space, a wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame made of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply building codes in terms of sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from elements 50x70 or 50x100. You can also take dry, knot-free wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of insulating airborne noise.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For interior wall choose designs of at least 0.6 mm. If you use thinner parts, then when attaching the slabs, the screws may turn, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

Materials

1. Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fiber)
2. Damper (sealing) tape
3. Dowel-nails
4. Anchor wedges
5. Self-tapping screws with press washer
6. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
7. Acrylic primer
8. Gypsum or polymer putty
9. Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

Installation of plasterboard can only be carried out after all “wet” work on site has been completed. If the air in the room is heavily saturated with moisture, the slabs will absorb it and may become deformed.

In addition, it is not recommended to begin installation immediately after delivery of the plasterboard to the site. After all, they were most likely stored in damp unheated room. If they are immediately placed vertically in a heated room and secured to a base, they will begin to dry unevenly, which can lead to their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceeding with the main work.

Marking

The first stage is marking the design location. It is performed using a laser level or ruler in combination with a coloring chop cord. First, mark the place for the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then using laser device or a plumb line, the outline of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installation of guides

• Ensure that the guides fit snugly to the base.
• Prevent the spread of vibration from the house structure by improving sound insulation.

Horizontal beams are fixed to the floor and walls with 6x40 dowel nails. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally about 40 cm), moreover, there must be at least three dowel nails per guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. The nails are driven in with a screwdriver or, if you have experience, with the same hammer drill. It is recommended to fasten them to the ceiling with anchor wedges in advance. drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal scissors (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding screw heads can cause unevenness. Meanwhile, the structure is not designed for plastering, and putty can be used to “remove” small bumps and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the labor intensity of the work.

Construction of racks

Typically, the pitch of vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity this way: make a stand from two profiles, installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened using horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws and press washers. It is not right. The caps will face towards the room, will stick out and interfere during the covering, which will ultimately negatively affect the reliability of the entire system. As an option, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws until the base is assembled. And then, immediately before finishing the gypsum boards, unscrew them step by step. But this will increase installation time.

Optimal solution- cutter. He will connect the parts using the cutting and folding method. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. Let us add that the vertical supports must be level before fastening.

A technical error is considered to be the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls and ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to attach the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, seams filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a Doorway

Most often, it is performed using standard profiles, inside of which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special profile element 2 mm thick, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive. Above the opening, a horizontal jumper is provided from a trimmed frame part. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the posts with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Before installation, holes are cut in the racks for electrical wiring. Cables are pulled into corrugated pipes. The holes in the plasterboard for the socket boxes are made with metal crowns - attachments for a screwdriver.

The space between the racks is filled with sound-absorbing mats or rolls of mineral wool. They are selected based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg/m3 is suitable. Wool of less density cakes and settles over time.

Sheathing

When performing this, the following rules must be observed:

• Use self-tapping screws of the required length. The calculation is as follows: length = sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (the fastener should extend into the metal part by this amount). That is, for single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for double-layer sheathing - 3.5 cm long.
• When screwing, the screws must be recessed into the gypsum board strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, they will become an obstacle during puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. Cheap way set the desired depth - an attachment with a limiter for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals prefer a screwdriver with limited driving depth.
• The installation pitch of the screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the slab from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from its end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal edge.
• Often the height of the structure is greater than the length of the gypsum board. Then, with single-layer cladding, vertically adjacent slabs are joined on an additional lintel. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, the jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart relative to each other.
• To avoid the appearance of cracks, you need to leave a gap between the slabs and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left on top, and a separating tape can be glued where the cladding adjoins the ceiling.
• Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or stationery knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife, it is neat and does not create dust. However, you cannot remove the edges from the sheets at the joints with a knife (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5°. This allows you to make a 45° joint between materials. If it is necessary to level the edge of the cut layer, use a roughing plane.
• The doorway is first completely covered with sheathing, which is then cut along the posts and lintel - this makes it easier to ensure the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements to prevent cracks from occurring.

Plasterboard structures - fashionable and a widely used option for decorating a house or apartment. There are a lot of photographs of interiors created from this material on the Internet, looking at which many immediately have a desire to do something similar at home.

At the same time, hiring specialists is expensive and not always convenient. A completely logical question arises - how to make something else out of drywall with your own hands, at a time convenient for yourself?

This idea is quite feasible, the main thing is to master the techniques metal parts, drywall installation and finishing ready-made structures. There is nothing particularly complicated in these actions, you just need to have an idea of ​​what and how to do. The question is of interest to many, so we should consider it in more detail.

Using drywall: pros and cons

Drywall is a universal material. Its properties provide much more possibilities than it seems at first glance. Advantages

• Possibility to replace expensive furniture.
• Thermal insulation. A layer of drywall effectively retains heat; if necessary, it can be reinforced with a layer of mineral wool or other insulation.
• Light weight. It does not load the walls or create excessive pressure on the floors, although some structures look heavy and massive.
• Fire safety. Only the cardboard layer can burn, which will not ignite on its own and will not cause a fire.
• Smooth smooth surface. Perfectly corrects or masks defects in walls and surfaces.
• Flexibility. Oddly enough, drywall can be bent, giving structures smooth shapes. Of course, to do this you need to know how to do it, you will need certain skills, but they are quite simple.
• Water resistance. There are specially manufactured grades of drywall that are resistant to moisture.
• Environmental friendliness and safety of the material.
• Low price.

Such properties characterize the material from the very positive side, however, there are also flaws:

• Fragility. The sheet can be broken, it cracks under deforming loads. The problem can be solved, but this circumstance must be taken into account during design.
• Poor sound insulation. The seemingly massive structure is hollow, it resonates, all sounds penetrate through it quite easily, which sometimes creates certain inconveniences. To solve the problem, insulators are used - mineral wool or similar materials.
• Weak load-bearing capacity. If you need to hang wall cabinets or a TV on a plasterboard wall, you need to worry about reinforcement in advance with a double layer of material or install a supporting metal structure in the right place on the back side.

The shortcomings of drywall can be compensated for, the main thing is to know about them and take this into account during design work.

Application options

Simplicity, ease of processing, quick installation(or dismantling), unchanged shape and dimensions (unlike fiberboard or MDF, which change dimensions during operation), reliability and strength supporting structures caused for wide use plasterboard in construction or finishing works.

Plasterboard structures can be divided into several types that have similar purposes:

1. False wall, box. It is used to hide various communications from the observer - pipelines, electrical wiring, to correct unevenness or defects in walls.
2. Partition for zoning space. Designed to separate a certain part of the room, for example, to separate the kitchen and living room.
3. Interior wall. A full-fledged wall separating two (or more) rooms, having sufficient strength and thickness.
4. Division of workspace in the office. The construction of office partitions sometimes helps to solve the problem of the lack of separate premises to accommodate employees’ workplaces, create work areas, offices, etc.

All these options can be quite complex in terms of design and include a lot of elements, details or parts. Partitions can be made solid or translucent, with full or partial cutoff of space, creating a conditional zone boundary.

Important! It is the possibility of creating complex shapes, attractive from an aesthetic point of view, as well as having high functional qualities, is the most valuable property of plasterboard as a building material.

The popularity of the material has led to widespread use, many samples of products or designs have been created, among which there are very attractive samples. There are many photographs on the Internet that provide food for imagination in independent design development.

Which material is better to choose?

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) have several varieties. First of all, you should consider the general classification:

1. GKL. Regular material for finishing rooms with normal conditions. The leaf is gray and has blue markings.
2. GKLO. Fireproof type of material. Has high resistance to open fire, is used in rooms with high fire hazard. Gray (some manufacturers have pink) sheet with red markings.
3. GKLV. Moisture resistant material, contains antifungal additives and silicone granules. Green leaf with blue markings.
4. GKLVO. Moisture- and fire-resistant plasterboard is resistant to both fire and moisture. It is used for finishing high-risk premises according to these parameters. Green leaf with red markings.

In addition, the sheets are divided according to the type of edge:

• PC. Straight edge, cut at 90 degrees, covered with cardboard.
• UK. The thinned edge has a slight bevel from one side of the sheet to the edge. The bevel is needed to compensate for the thickness of the reinforcing tape glued before the putty.
• ZK. Rounded edge.
• PLC. Rounded edge on the front side of the sheet.
• PLUCK. A rounded edge on one side combined with a tapered edge.

Standard thickness of gypsum plasterboard - 6.9 and 12.5 mm.

The thinner the sheet, the more convenient it is for them to finish curved surfaces, but the load-bearing capacity of such a sheet is much lower.

Sheet sizes are 2500 or 3000 mm with a width of 1200 mm. There are sheets of smaller sizes, which are easier to work with, but they are more expensive.

Instructions for the construction of walls and partitions

Before you begin work on creating a structure, you should make a lot of preparatory steps. The most important of them is the creation of the project, the design decision, and also - careful study all necessary operations and actions.

Attention! Before starting all work, you need to familiarize yourself with the methods of connecting metal frame parts. This will help to avoid errors when calculating the frame, as well as the entire project as a whole.

The creation of a plasterboard structure can be divided into: two types:

1. An independent structure, the rigidity of which does not require support.
2. A structure for which a wall serves as a load-bearing base.

The creation of such products has some differences. Let's look at them with examples.

Interior wall

First of all you should draw up a project- sketch, drawing of the future product. It should include all the calculated information - consumption of materials per 1 m2 (both gypsum boards and metal parts, self-tapping screws), the presence and shape of openings, doors, the presence of communications - electrical wiring, lamps, sockets.

One of the most important points is choice of gypsum board thickness. Since you plan to build a wall, you should use the thickest sheet - 12.5 mm. This thickness will help strengthen the wall and avoid accidental destruction of the gypsum board. The minimum thickness is 9 mm, but in this case you should strengthen the frame and install more frequent racks with crossbars.

Calculation required quantity GCR is quite simple. You need to calculate the area of ​​the wall, subtract the area of ​​the opening from it and multiply the resulting value by 2. The result will be the area of ​​the plasterboard required to build the walls.

At the same time, you need to have a small reserve just in case, since no one is immune from mistakes.

Calculating the number of metal parts is somewhat more complicated. Based on the design drawing, you should calculate the required number vertical racks, guides and cross members. It must be remembered that the location of the racks must correspond to the width of the gypsum board sheet.

If such a calculation is difficult, you can contact online calculators, of which there are quite a lot on the network and get the required values. To check the result, it is recommended to duplicate the calculation on another resource (or several), this will help clarify and correct the values.

After this, you can begin assembly work. We begin assembling the wall frame. Markings are made on the floor and the lower guide is installed. You can start work from above, from the ceiling, but from below is more convenient. According to the assembly drawing, the frame is assembled - racks, upper guide, etc.

The assembled one is rigidly fixed to the floor. Using a building level, carefully install the vertical along all the racks and mark the locations of the screws, the pitch of which is minimum 30-40 cm.

Then the frame is moved slightly to the side and holes for dowels are made in the designated places using a puncher. The frame is then put back into place and firmly secured.

Alternatively, you can first set a perimeter in the form of ceiling and floor guides connected by racks mounted on the walls. The accuracy of the plane in this case is determined precisely by the wall studs. After installing the perimeter, all other vertical and transverse elements are installed.

To create a doorway in the lower guides, a gap equal to the width of the opening is required. The side racks are installed with shelves facing the opening. In the presence of door block we need them reinforce with wooden blocks, or, alternatively, install double racks next to each other.

If an arch is planned in the hall, then the bending configuration is made from the same profile in advance. Usually, wedges are cut out in a profile with a certain step along the side part, which makes it possible to bend it and give the desired bend according to the template. Then the profile is mounted on the frame.

All frame elements adjacent to the opening are installed shelf towards the opening, otherwise it will be impossible to attach the end parts from gypsum plasterboard.

After this, the installation of the gypsum board begins. Pieces are cut off the right size and are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The installation of gypsum boards is done on one side, then the electrical wiring is laid, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is installed for sound insulation, and the gypsum boards are installed on the reverse side.

Produced finishing of the structure- putty, painting, etc. Doors (if any), lamps or sockets are installed. The partition is ready!

Attention! When creating a wide (reinforced) partition, the procedure is similar to that indicated, but the frame consists of two profile layers, forming a wall of the required thickness.

How to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands - step-by-step instructions:

Phased construction of a false wall

False walls are used to disguise various communications- water pipes or gas pipes, electrical cables etc. To build a false wall (box), you will first need to create design drawings. Based on the drawings, the quantity of materials is calculated and markings are made on the load-bearing wall.

According to the applied markings, it is installed on the wall metallic profile, serving as a support for the frame of the box. If the masked communications are thick, then a three-dimensional frame structure is created, allowing you to hide all elements of communications.

Inner part of the box insulated using the selected material (if necessary), electrical wires for the lamps are laid according to the plan.

Pieces of gypsum board are cut and installed. The more complex the false wall design, the more gypsum board waste there will be. This is unproductive, but inevitable, especially if you have many elements with round or curved parts.

The installed gypsum board is puttied, processed according to technological standards and covered with finishing.

Features of installing a false wall in a video:

How to assemble a corner wall from plasterboard?

Often, a corner wall is built to separate part of the room into a separate compartment. Unlike the usual angle connecting two adjacent gypsum board planes, the corner wall becomes load-bearing structure, from which connection rigidity is required.

The corner wall has two points of support on the main walls and gusset, having fastening only to the floor and ceiling. The corner in such structures is a critical element that must be made according to certain rules.

First of all, the corner is formed by two racks (don't try to make do with one!), rigidly connected to each other along the side surface and shelf.

The connected racks are a double rack with a cross-section in the form of a rectangular bar. Connecting a corner with the formation of a void at the junction of the planes is unacceptable, since cracks will certainly appear on it.

When making an external corner, a double layer of gypsum plasterboard is used, which ensures the strength and rigidity of the formed corner. Such a measure is in no way a reinsurance, and the existing doorway creates additional load on one of the areas.

Therefore, strengthening the wall is necessary; external corners must be reinforced with metal perforated corners(curvilinear external corners enhance plastic corners) and covered with a layer of special putty. For external corner walls It is best to use thick gypsum board - 12.5 mm, forming a solid plane in total.

Partition design options for zoning

There are a great variety of design options for partitions inside the room. The possibilities of the material provide a wide field of activity for creativity. Simple and complex designs are offered that combine furniture functions with wall elements.

Selecting an option to use in own project may be based on ideas gleaned from the Internet. At the same time, it is necessary realistically assess your capabilities, take into account the degree of complexity of the structure that is planned to be created.

Important! Creating structures from plasterboard can completely change the entire appearance of the room, causing the need complete renovation and furniture replacement.

The most effective solutions are those that completely unite the room into a single ensemble when plasterboard structures do not look like separate parts, but are completely integrated into the interior.

For example, decorating a bedroom in the same style and color scheme with gypsum plasterboard structures will create a unique room that has an original and sophisticated look. Very important element decor - spotlights that illuminate the structure from different points.

The creation and use of gypsum plasterboard structures can pursue both purely decorative and practical purposes - for example, serve as shelves for books, stands for flowers, TV, audio equipment.

Using false walls helps reduce the amount of furniture in the room, freeing up space and giving additional volume.

Zoning of a room can be done either in the form of conventionally designated boundaries or in the form of dense partitions with openings that completely cut off part of the room.

Both solutions have a right to exist, but it should be remembered that a complete partition can significantly reduce the illumination of one of the parts of the room and disrupt natural ventilation.

From these positions, sometimes more good decision it becomes the creation of a transparent partition that looks like a bookcase, permeable to rays of light and air flows. Such a partition is quite divides the room well into zones, but does not provide privacy.

The choice of one type or another is a matter for the owner of the premises, who is guided by his own tastes and preferences.

How to repair a hole in a plasterboard wall?

The formation of unwanted holes in the material is an unpleasant feature of drywall. There are two ways to seal such a hole:

1. Applying a patch.
2. Sealing with a piece of plasterboard, repeating the shape of the hole and installed flush with common plane walls.

If there are no questions for the first option, cut out a piece of gypsum board slightly larger than the hole to be filled, glue it (or install it with screws) and finished in the same style as the rest of the wall. The option is simple, but the patch remains a reminder of the hole.


In order to install the patch flush with the main plane, you need to insert a strip of material into the hole (for example, wooden slats), somewhat narrower, but longer than the hole.

To hold the strip, you can attach a cord to the central part of the strip, which must later be removed. The longer ends of the strip are attracted to the main layer of plasterboard with screws, resulting in a support for the patch, which is inserted into the hole with glue.

After curing, excess glue is removed, the surface is finally sanded with sandpaper or a special grater, then the entire area is finished to match the surrounding area.

How to dismantle plasterboard walls?

One of important features structures made of gypsum plasterboard - the possibility of quick and not too dusty dismantling. This procedure can be done in two ways:

1. With preservation of material.
2. No saving.

Dismantling without saving has the sole purpose of destroy the existing structure. It is produced quite simply - the gypsum board is broken and removed, metal elements are dismantled and all materials are removed from the premises.

• All foreign objects in the room must be protected from dust with plastic wrap.
• First of all, you need to remove the doors, lamps and other decorative elements.
• Remove tape or corners from the seams and corners of the sheets.
• Clean the putty from the screw locations.
• Remove the sheets and disassemble the metal frame.

Attention! When disassembling, be aware of the electrical wiring inside the structure. If possible, it should be unplugged.

Careful disassembly of the structure may not damage the materials at all, providing the opportunity for reuse.

Is installing an interior partition a redevelopment?

It is believed that any change in the apartment plan, regardless of the material or composition of the changes made, is a redevelopment and must be legalized, agree with the competent authorities.

However, if an ordinary box is made to cover communications, then such a change can hardly be called a redevelopment.

According to Article 25 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, redevelopment is a change in the configuration of housing that requires inclusion in the passport.

Since all the permitting documents necessary to complete the redevelopment take a long time and painfully, with the provision of a project, obtaining permits and other adventures, in practice they usually do it simply - they do all the work, and then de facto bring the documentation into compliance (or not at all) .

Most homeowners who have gone through the procedure for legalizing work claim that it would be much easier to pay fine for unauthorized redevelopment (2000-2500 rubles) and formalize what you already have, rather than collecting mountains of papers, sometimes for an unclear purpose.

Any consultation with employees of the BTI or other responsible organizations will have the same result, obliging you to perform a lot of lengthy and not very clear actions. They can be understood, this is their responsibility. But the decision, as always, is made by the homeowner.

Making your own partitions or boxes from gypsum plasterboard is a simple task that requires a minimum number of tools, but brings good results, and sometimes - just great results.

The main thing is to take the time to clarify all unclear points for yourself. Then the resulting result will delight all residents of the house or apartment, and will also surprise guests.

To remodel an apartment, divide space in a private house, or simply implement an original design solution - a plasterboard wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!

What you need to know about profiles and drywall?

The desired room sizes will differ slightly from those planned, because part of the area will be “eaten up” new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).

Characteristics of profiles and their purpose

Before buying materials and starting to mark out rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences of the profiles. So, according to their intended purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mounted (PS).

As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical posts are inserted into it.

• D – rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed for fixing drywall on one side only;
• W – profiles for forming a full wall, sewn on both sides;
• C – rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
• U – guides with an edge height of 40 mm;
• 50, 75, 100 – profile width, which should match the racks and guides.

For example, the marking CW 100 means that this is a rack-mount wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of insulation/sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm it is suitable standard insulation, laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool).

The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in one length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly not recommended to “increase” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before purchasing racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.

Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Wall plasterboard is available in a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum permissible value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. This sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:

• 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
• 18 mm thick – for loads up to 70 kg;
• double sheets - for heavy loads from 70 kg.

The dimensions of the sheets are standard - width 120 cm, and height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Fire-resistant sheets are also becoming increasingly popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a fire source.

Based on these data, you can determine the dimensions of the future room - you need to step back at least 8.75 cm inward from the original markings (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay in the walls water pipes or corrugated cables large diameter, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the selected distance between them.

Installation of plasterboard wall

Often, there are no perfectly straight walls, especially in older houses, so when dividing a room you need to tie it not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.

If all surfaces are covered with plasterboard, before making a new wall, first, using profiles and gypsum plasterboard, the existing ones are leveled as much as possible. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will significantly simplify finishing work in the future.

Installation of profiles

Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires great precision. To level the racks, it is advisable to purchase a laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to a regular plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:

1. The profiles adjacent to the walls, floor and ceiling are covered with sealing tape in advance. It performs shock-absorbing and sound-proofing functions.



2. PNs are attached to the floor and ceiling along a pre-marked line in increments of up to 1 m. K wooden surface- with self-tapping screws 50 cm long, and for concrete - with dowels 75 cm long. In the second case, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a hammer drill.



3. Both load-bearing and rack profiles can be attached to the walls. It is important to remember that it must be continuous, so if the ceiling height is more than 3 m, only longer PS will have to be used.
4. If a doorway is provided, floor profile in this place a gap is left for the width of the opening. It is important to decide in advance on the width of the door - if the standard leaf is 80 cm, then the doorway needs to be made 88 cm (to install the door frame).
5. PSs begin to be installed from the doorway - they will determine its width. First, the profile is fixed to the floor, after which it is leveled and fixed to the ceiling.
6. The installation step of the racks is any convenient. They are often placed to fasten sheets along the edges and in the center - so you need to know the dimensions of the gypsum boards in advance. The joints of the sheets should be in the middle of the PS; this must be taken into account when installing the profiles.



7. The more frequent the spacing of the racks, the higher the strength of the wall, but also the higher the final cost. Also, to give it greater rigidity, a wooden beam or a load-bearing profile is inserted into the profiles delimiting the doorway. For the same purpose, transverse struts made of PS, reinforced with the same timber, are used. They are installed in places of horizontal joints of gypsum boards.





8. A lintel is also installed above the doorway. The height depends on the size of the door. For a standard two-meter canvas, the height should be 205 cm.
9. The jumper is made from PS, which is cut 20-30 cm longer. On each side, retreating 10-15 cm from the edge, respectively, cuts of 45⁰ are made on the side walls so that the bevel is directed outward. The cut sides are folded down, giving the profile a U-shape. (9) The vertical sides are placed on the posts and secured with metal screws. The corners sticking out after cutting on the horizontal part are also screwed to the posts - this ensures maximum reliability of fastening.

Important nuances of installing drywall

The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seam sealing, a chamfer is removed from the top side of all cut edges (this is not necessary for factory edges, it is already there).

The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls to normal condition. Just a few decades ago, practically no one had heard of perfectly smooth walls. They leveled it out based on the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster along the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls using gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets).

The second problem that is most often solved in the process repair work, is a redevelopment. Old partitions are removed and new ones are installed in their place. Decorative and interior partitions also installed using drywall. This article will talk about how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands: photos, videos.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when there is a need to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching plasterboard sheets to walls:

1. On a base made of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate for; first you will have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cramping the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that if they are used insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they may “lead” during drying, and therefore the entire structure will become warped. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since prices for lumber are much lower than for profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to obtain a perfectly flat surface at any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps from which the frame is assembled so that front part the lintels and racks lay in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are located at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of a profile frame is the possibility of installing a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of plasterboard sheets directly on the walls.

In other words, installing gypsum boards with glue. Use “liquid nails” or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with minor differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles if there are differences, and in strips if the walls are smooth), then the sheet is mounted in place, leveled using a level, secured with supports and wedges.

The latest technology, placing drywall on glue, is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. There is not glue under the sheets everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you have previously planned to attach something to the wall, install a mounting beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences; the surface is not perfectly flat (a difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the “pieces” of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos

So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required; we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The screws for fastening to wood are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.

Purpose of plasterboard sheets and their sizes

A few words about how to lay gypsum boards on walls and what sizes they come in. The standard sizes are: height – 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones, a little shorter in length. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm – designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm is a universal material for ceilings and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-grade. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer markets thin sheets, such as those used for finishing uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned indoors.

How to join sheets

If there is a need to join plasterboard sheets in height, try to position the joints so that a long line does not form; they are laid offset or staggered, preferably so that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed with a shift of half the width (60 centimeters).

Rules for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photos, videos

During installation, plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and secured using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 millimeters), in stores they are called “for drywall.” Color – white or black (more often broken), length – 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, similar-sized screws with a flat head are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the required depth: the head should be recessed in the sheet, without tearing the cardboard; it should also be screwed perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus reducing the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls in the middle of the profile.

Having made an indent of 10-12 millimeters from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be shifted or placed above one another. The installation step is 250-300 millimeters. Fastened along the middle profile and along the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height of the installed sheet; it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Do-it-yourself partition for a plasterboard wall: photo, video

Installing a partition is a little more complicated, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Marking.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This straight line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If you don't have a laser level, you'll have to use a plumb line and building level (High Quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting straight line should be located strictly above the line on the floor; this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the intended line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW – load-bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6*60 or 6*40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the supporting profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be placed there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the load-bearing capacity and make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the supporting one; they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides and fastens two parts. During independent repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs attach them to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill into the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). The racks are secured on each side with two self-tapping screws.

An important point: if you are installing a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the joint of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent squeaking. During walking, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles; as a result, the profiles rub and a creaking occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the plasterboard sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If the gap is still more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or the sheet will sag and wobble in this area. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​the outer profile, so the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is secured with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are set and secured, the structure is given rigidity using jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are placed at the height of the junction of two sheets; they must be secured. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, install 80 cm; if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for covering gypsum boards. It is also advisable to reinforce them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying electrical wiring and communications. It is advisable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in a wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses/apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-flammable material(marked “NG”).

1. Sheathing with heat/sound insulation and plasterboard.

After laying communications, they begin to install plasterboard sheets. They are installed exactly as for cladding. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls, conventional insulation is used.

• Expanded polystyrene. One of the types of polystyrene foam. Differs in cells closed form, thanks to which it has best characteristics: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. The downside is the high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg/m3) is applied. It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burned it emits hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This stone wool(basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt ones are considered the most environmentally friendly because they do not contain formaldehyde. They are quite easy to work with, hold up well, are easy to cut, are less susceptible to moisture, and do not require respiratory or skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is their high cost. The most affordable option of these insulation materials is slag wool, glass wool average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

Sheathing the walls plasterboard sheets, You will have to cut the sheets, since they cannot always be installed entirely. To do this, you will need a stationery knife, a long, flat object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you need to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

DIY plasterboard walls: photos, video tutorials

Unfortunately not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of a frame from profiles. Since this is truly one of the most labor-intensive works, and how smooth the partition and wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really rigid. This method must be used if you are building a full-fledged partition between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, in which case reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: corrugated or smooth?

On the market there is various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of metal, it is stiffer. How good he really is, look at the video.