Country toilet: overview of types of garden models for country toilets and features of their installation. Choosing a toilet for a summer house: traditional and alternative options Operating a toilet in an unheated room
The toilet is a practical building that is usually the first to be built on suburban area. Agree, without it you can simply forget about a comfortable stay at the dacha. Basic amenities are necessary at the beginning of the construction of a residential building and when using dacha area as a vegetable garden.
The comfort of a toilet is determined by factors: access to water, lack of odor, reliability of the design, appearance built and comfortable country toilet, which should fully replace the home analogue. In this article we will talk about how to put all this into practice yourself.
Here you will learn all about the types of toilets for garden toilets and understand how to choose suitable model. In addition, we will tell you how to install a country toilet. In the article you will find many useful tips, photos and videos from experienced specialists.
The toilet for the garden toilet can be purchased ready-made, choosing from a wide variety of products on the market plumbing equipment. If owners want to save money summer cottage plot can build a budget and no less practical design DIY toilet.
The final choice is made by the owner of the dacha, but before that you should familiarize yourself with the possible options.
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For those who have a lot of beech A in not A strengthens" Conclusion below...The goal is not to be afraid that the toilet will burst in the cold (for weekly winter visits).
I read on the forum about the possibility of protecting the toilet from bursting in the cold by inserting a soft hose into its siphon.
I decided to conduct an experiment on a can - if it doesn’t burst, then the toilet will definitely survive, because... it's stronger. But you still need a guarantee...
I took the shower hose and cut it in half. t=-15оС.
The result is failure - the bank burst.
See photo.
Visually the hoses have shrunk, but obviously not everywhere...
Actually, because When water freezes, it expands by about 10%, then the volume of voids in the hoses must obviously be greater than 10% of the volume of water. And taking into account the fact that the hoses are not compressed everywhere, then - with a large margin. If, of course, you need a guarantee...
Experiment #2:
I inserted a double-folded hose into a beer bottle and, together with a control sample (without a hose), placed it in a cold environment of -12-18°C.
The result is that not a single bottle burst...
Another failure.
Here the people found a more successful experimenter - this is our colleague chicken-A.
Here is information from him on a successful experiment:
“I take a 3/4 [inch] tube, soft, from the inside of some kind washing machine. But you can use any rubber one, the main thing is that its diameter internal cavity was sufficient. The siphon of the plumbing device is parabolic in shape, smooth. Therefore, when water freezes, it expands mainly in the direction of the horns of this parabola, and if the friction force against the walls is small, then the device remains intact even without any devices. The tube simply protects against such an attack. You need to push it in there deeper, so that ideally it goes through the entire bend of the siphon. Watering hose made of plastic, I think not the best option- it is hard and easily flattens over time. If it’s scary, then put not one, but two loops from the tube in there for belay.”
About him:
“It has already frozen 7-10 times, it thaws quite quickly if the air in the house has already warmed up and if you pour a little warm water (not hot) on top.”
A discussion on this topic and a bunch of small but useful ideas are here.
Now a little about the “physics” of water freezing:
I tried to figure out why not the entire tube shrinks in frozen water, but only its lower 70-80% and, it seems, I understood.
When I periodically observed the freezing of water in bottles, I saw that the water froze first as a thin disk on top and bottom of the bottle, and only then everything else.
Those. - when this disk froze, the pressure shifted it upward along the jar (there was room to move along the smooth glass), but not towards the axis of the jar and therefore the tubes in the disk did not shrink.
And when this disk, due to friction (or due to abutting the beginning of the neck of the jar), could no longer move, the pressure of the freezing water compressed the tubes, because “he” had nowhere else to go.
This is probably why the bottles didn’t burst - I didn’t add enough water to them before they narrowed, and when they froze, the icy upper plug-disc didn’t reach the obstacle, and taking into account the greater strength of the bottle, the friction force of the disk on the walls apparently turned out to be less strength of these walls.
And now about the physics of water freezing in the toilet:
Thanks Vovochka!:
"Freezing begins at the top, because the density of water is maximum at T = +4C, and the most cold water“floats up” where it freezes.”
This is true, so it is clear that (see photo of the toilet) the “plug” freezes first at point 1, then at point 3 (they plug the holes), and then everything else.
The pressure of freezing water presses both on these plugs and on the walls of the toilet. Well, whoever gets kicked out first is the one who “wins.”
Completion of theoretical research:
At the construction market I bought a “polyvinyl chloride tube” - soft, like a rubber tube with a diameter of 18 mm, thick. walls - 2mm. Price - 22 rubles/meter. See photo. This is what you need!
Another experiment and another failure:
3 liter jar with six soft hoses burst...
Curious:
1. The water in the jar froze for at least 32 hours (!!!) The jar was found to have burst after 39 hours.
t=-5 - -15оС.
2. The hoses (unlike previous experiments) were not compressed by freezing ice... Apparently, this did not protect the can.
3. During the freezing process, strange “needles” were created in the jar, apparently from air bubbles, but I didn’t understand why they were not round, but long. And they go strictly from the axis of the can to its walls... See photo.
A version of the reason why the hoses did not shrink was born:
The water froze first at the edges of the jar and in it (in the center) an oval (ellipsoid) of unfrozen water remained in it (in the center) before complete freezing.
But for some reason I placed the hoses closer to the walls of the can, and they apparently shouldn’t have shrunk there when they froze, because... when the hoses froze, the water in the center of the jar was not yet frozen and the pressure was not yet high.
And when the pressure became dangerous for the can, the hoses were already frozen into the ice and could no longer compress.
Now it’s clear - the hoses must be placed in the center of the protected container. Moreover, ideally - with the maximum possible total diameter.
Conclusion:
To prevent the toilet from bursting when the water in it freezes, you need to:
Fold a thin-walled hose with a diameter of about 15-25mm several times (the more, the better. For example, 6-8 times), but so that after inserting into the toilet siphon there is no water in the hose, i.e. holes - up. When freezing, the expansion of the ice is compensated by the compression of the hose.
It must be inserted deeper into the siphon, all the way.
To next year The sewage system worked properly, in the fall, before leaving for the city for the winter, it is advisable to perform a few simple steps:
1. Preparing the toilet.
The largest water plug in terms of volume is in the toilet, and this is understandable - the largest traffic is through the toilet. In addition to the fact that this plug is the largest, it is located in the elbow of the ceramic toilet bowl, which has very low deformation properties. Simply put, when the water in the toilet bowl freezes, the bottom of the knee simply breaks off. Sometimes this happens very nicely and neatly, so that the broken part can be glued back in place, but it’s better not to take risks.
When preserving a dacha for the winter:
- flush the water from the toilet tank several times,
- Shut off the water supply to the toilet tank and flush the water from the tank.
- unscrew the lid of the tank and make sure that there is almost no water left in the tank; if you wish, you can remove the remaining water with a rag or sponge (this is not necessary if there is not much water left in the tank).
- Scoop out as much water as possible from the toilet bowl. It is best to use a special scoop for this, made using a wallpaper knife from plastic bottle, shaped like a ladle. However, you can scoop out water using any available means.
- Remove any remaining water from the bowl with an old rag or sponge.
- To prevent odors from the sewer network from entering the house in winter, tightly plug the hole in the bowl with a rag.
- You can also throw some rags on top and even close the lid, although this is not necessary:
2. Preparation of siphons of washbasins, sinks, sinks.
If you have plastic sewer and, accordingly, plastic siphons, then theoretically they can not be prepared much for winter. The water plug in plastic siphons is small in volume, plastic has higher thermal insulation properties than metal or ceramics, in addition, plastic can be slightly deformed, so usually the water that does not have time to evaporate from the siphon before the onset of frost freezes a little slower than in a ceramic toilet bowl or cast iron elbow and turning into ice does not tear the siphons. If you have cast iron siphons, then it is necessary to remove water from them for the winter. This can be done in several ways, for example, using a kvak (plunger) to push water from the siphon further along the pipe. If you don’t have a plunger, you can try to blow it out with a bicycle or car pump or carefully insert a cloth between the drain grate and gradually soak up all the water. After removing the water, plug the drain hole with a stopper or a rag (it is advisable to press the rag on top with something heavy) so that odors from the sewer network do not enter the house.
I have been using these technologies for 15 years now and so far everything is reliable. And yes, do not forget to drain the water from the tank. One of my friends did everything correctly, but did not drain the water from the tank. When the frost came, the seal of the gasket in the tank was broken, the water flowed into the bowl and froze there. As a result, the toilet had to be replaced.
When talking about toilets for a summer residence, they often mean a simple toilet made of boards, assembled in a cubicle installed around cesspool. There are actually quite a few wide choose devices to satisfy almost any requests of summer residents. We'll talk about this in detail later.
Straight
Such toilets are installed in dacha conditions, where it is not always possible to supply a water supply for drainage, so they do not have an elbow with a water seal and cistern. The release is made vertically downwards in storage capacity, septic tank or cesspool.
Straight toilets can be made from standard sanitaryware or from chemically resistant plastics.
Often such products are produced assembled with a stand or even built into a cabinet.
When choosing a toilet of this type, special attention should be paid to the quality of the material, since such a toilet must withstand large changes in temperature and humidity, and in addition plastic toilet must be mechanically strong and resistant to the aggressive effects of ammonia released from waste products of the human body.
Alternative to factory products
If you do not want to spend money and think that it is quite possible to arrange such a toilet yourself, you are right. It is not difficult. Below we will look at the possible options.
Wooden toilet seat
On the floor outdoor toilet, above the hole of the pit, a structure in the form of a cabinet about 40 cm high is assembled.
An oval-shaped hole is cut in the top for the toilet seat you plan to install. The seat must have a cover.
Most often, for this design they use wooden boards. It is advisable to make such a stand over the entire width of the outdoor toilet cabin - it is very convenient.
It is imperative to provide for the possibility of quickly dismantling such a cabinet when pumping out sewage.
Toilet - bucket
This plastic toilet looks like a simple bucket with a seat and a lid. After use, the toilet is removed and emptied into a cesspool or compost pit. This type of device is made both sealed and without a bottom.
If a toilet without a bottom is selected, it is installed above the septic tank and secured to the floor. For this purpose, special holes are provided in its body.
The choice of this device is simple and comes down to choosing the shape and color.
Powder closet
This toilet is similar to the previous one, but is made exclusively with a sealed container.
After using it, the contents of the container are sprinkled organic fertilizer(peat, humus, ash) or regular soil that eliminate odors. Once the tank is filled, it is emptied into the compost bin. This toilet does not have a cesspool, so it is easy to move.
You can arrange such a toilet yourself by making a box with a seat and installing it inside storage tank. The container can be removed, carried out and emptied at any time.
Electric dry closet
The most convenient, but also the most expensive of dry closets. The receiving tank is divided into two parts, in which liquid fractions are separated from solid ones.
To operate the device, 220 V electrical wiring is required, since the system has air compressor, with the help of which solid fractions are dried and accumulated in a special compartment with their subsequent removal.
The system involves a drainage system and mandatory forced ventilation. The price of such devices starts from 8,000 rubles, the average is about 35,000 rubles.
The most popular model on the Russian market is Thetford Porta Potti Excellence Electric, Holland.
- Automatic drainage using an electric pump;
- Storage tank - 21 l;
- Drain container - 15 l;
- Price 12,000 rub.
The device is equipped with an overpressure valve, a fill indicator for the lower tank and a drain tank. Manufacturer's warranty – 36 months.
Peat toilet
Peat or compost is one of the types of dry toilets. Outwardly, it is very similar to a regular toilet, but structurally it is made differently. It contains two containers - one for peat, the second for waste. After using the toilet, the waste is not drained, but is sprinkled with peat from the tank using a dispenser mechanism.
In this case, a natural transformation of feces occurs into a substance similar in composition to fertilizer and absolutely harmless to environment. After filling the container, it is taken out, the contents are poured into a compost pit, in which, in about a year, high-quality compost is formed to fertilize the site. This toilet does not use harmful chemicals.
This system is not without its drawbacks:
- mandatory ventilation device, sometimes forced with a fan;
- such systems cannot be used in the cold;
- larger sizes than other dry toilets;
- predisposition to the appearance of flies and other insects due to poor-quality sealing of the structure.
Choosing peat toilet, it is worth paying attention to the ventilation system - there must be a valve on the pipe to protect against the penetration of insects and rainwater.
In addition, make sure that the toilet lid fits securely and tightly to the seat - cracks and gaps are unacceptable.
Prices for such toilets are 5,000 – 28,000 rubles.
The most typical device of this type is Piteco 505, made in Russia. Price – 5600 rub.
The basic kit includes: couplings, a hose with clamps for drainage, a seat with a lid and, as a bonus, a bag of peat filler.
Chemical toilet
A chemical toilet is made of two tanks connected to each other. The lower one is equipped with a valve with a pipe for cleaning and is designed to accumulate waste, and the upper one is for water. The upper tank is mounted in a housing on which the pump, toilet and its seat with lid are installed.
To break down and process solid waste fractions, it uses potent chemical substances– sanitary liquids, which are quite harmful, so it is not recommended to dump such waste into open ground.
The choice of this type of toilet comes down to selecting the tank capacity and the pump installed in it.
Pumps are used in three types:
- Piston. A simple device that requires some effort to obtain the required pressure, but it allows you to obtain a strictly dosed amount of liquid.
- Pump-action.
- The device is more complex and at the same time easier to use. Electric. Most convenient option
, but it requires timely replacement of batteries, otherwise it will simply stop working.
As for the capacity of the tank, the larger it is, the better, however, it is worth considering that the dimensions of a large tank are quite impressive, as is its weight, so to place such a device you will need a decent amount of space and a reliable, durable floor.
It is also worth inquiring about the presence of a filling indicator and a pressure relief valve. This valve allows sewage to be drained without splashing.
The cost of products in this group starts from 4,000 rubles, and the price of 50,000 or even 85,000 is not the limit.
- A popular model from the Dutch manufacturer is Thetford Porta Potti Qube 335 (see photo).
- Pump type – manual piston pump;
- Storage tank - 10 l;
- Drain tank - 10 l;
Price 10600 rub.
The toilet is equipped with a valve to relieve excess pressure and a fill indicator.
Independent arrangement
You should start by purchasing a waste disposal tank, and only then, based on its size, make a cabinet in which it will be installed.
The cabinet is made from boards or plywood and a hole is cut out at the top for the lid and seat. Such a structure can be installed in a house or a cabin can be built for it on the site.
Any materials are suitable for making a booth - wood, plywood, plastic panels, flat slate or a combination thereof, the main thing is that the structure is durable, and to prevent accumulation unpleasant odors ventilation should be provided in it.
Polyethylene is good for ventilation. sewage pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. One end of it should be placed in a box with peat, the other should be brought outside the cabin and equipped with a rain visor.
Emptying a tank of this design is carried out when it is half filled, and before use you need to sprinkle its bottom with peat.
In our opinion, the toilet is for country toilet It could be any of the designs discussed, but two of them are worth paying closer attention to.
A peat toilet is perhaps the best thing you can come up with for a summer house - it is not only a toilet, but also a device that produces high-quality fertilizer.
But as for the device with chemical decomposition, the situation is ambiguous. Despite all the convenience, its waste is quite toxic and requires certain burial conditions, otherwise soil and plants may be contaminated, so we advise you to be wary of such a toilet.
The owners of dachas and country houses temporary residence there is one serious problem - how to prevent the toilet from freezing in an unheated house in the cold winter? Water frozen in the siphon will expand and may simply burst the toilet. On the Internet you will find a huge amount of advice on how to avoid this, so that when you arrive at your dacha in winter you won’t find this picture:
Most reliable way The solution to the problem is to drain the toilet siphon before preserving the house for the winter. But what should those who plan to visit their dacha on weekends all winter do? Avoid going to the toilet or have fun once a week by emptying the toilet just before you leave. In addition, after draining, you need to plug the drain with something so that odors from there do not spread throughout the house.
Someone suggests adding salt. But salt water freezes even at -5 degrees, and here the temperature outside can drop to -30. During a long absence, even the most insulated house will also have time to freeze well.
They also suggest using alcohol instead of salt. But this is some kind of inappropriate use of a valuable product :) In addition, alcohol evaporates over time.
There are smart people who pour antifreeze into the toilet. They do not evaporate, but after flushing, all this chemical enters your septic tank, killing bacteria, or is absorbed directly into the soil (whose sewage system is made). There is little benefit from this, in any case. In addition, antifreeze is also expensive for frequent winter visits.
Some try clean mechanical methods— insert several loops of rubber hose into the siphon. The hose remains filled with air. Freezing water compresses the hose and does not burst the toilet. Unfortunately, no one can confirm the reliability of this method. And what to do with this hefty ice plug in the toilet when you arrive at the dacha in the cold? If you pour boiling water from a kettle, the toilet will burst simply from the temperature change.
Lucky are those who have heated floors in their bathrooms. You turn it on in winter at a temperature of +5 - +10 degrees and you can sleep peacefully. Even if there is a power outage, the bathroom will remain warm for some time thanks to the heat accumulated in the thickness of the floor and heated walls. We are, of course, talking about electrical system warm floor. To those who gas heating, it is recommended to set automatic heating for the entire house in the winter. The bathroom can also be heated with an electric heated towel rail.
We don’t yet have a heated floor or heated towel rail in our bathroom, and we don’t know when gas will appear in our dacha community. Heating is possible only with wood or electricity. We did not plan to go to the dacha every day to warm up the house by lighting a fireplace. But when I came once a week or two, I wanted to be able to use the toilet normally. Therefore, to solve the problem of the toilet freezing, we simply lowered it into electric thermostat for aquarium.
We took the simplest thermostat, with a power of only 50 W. It won’t consume much electricity over the winter. But the convenience of this method is obvious. When we arrived, we turned off the thermostat and took it out of the toilet. You can use it. Before leaving, we lowered the thermostat into the toilet and plugged it into the outlet.
This method has its drawbacks. It is energy dependent, but we almost never have power outages for several days. Another minus is that our thermostat has a minimum temperature of +16 degrees. House in severe frosts It can freeze down to -15 degrees. Due to the large difference in temperature between water and air, the water will constantly evaporate. Experience shows that you need to drive up at least once every 10-15 days to add water. And due to the constant evaporation of water, a scale crust forms on the surface of the toilet bowl ( water stone). But it seems to us that cleaning the toilet in the spring will not be the biggest problem.
And for paranoid people who are afraid of long power outages, it is recommended to simply turn on the thermostat through uninterruptible source nutrition. Even the simplest UPS will keep a low-power aquarium thermostat running for several days, especially if you wrap the toilet siphon with some kind of insulation to cool down more slowly.
