Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: forced ventilation, do-it-yourself installation. How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet Exhaust hood in a separate bathroom
Improperly installed ventilation in the bathroom leads to the formation of fungus and mold in the room. As a result, bathroom owners receive damaged Decoration Materials and the aesthetically unattractive appearance of the room. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the correct organization of the ventilation system in the bathroom; we will consider how to make ventilation in the bathroom further.
Ventilation in the bathroom: requirements and functions
The process of installing ventilation in the bathroom, first of all, involves checking the existing ventilation system for operability. Proper air exchange in the room is very important not only for decorating walls and maintaining their attractiveness, but also, above all, for human health. Since a properly organized microclimate helps to improve the general condition and well-being of the people living in it.
The bathroom is an enclosed space that is periodically exposed to moisture, which requires constant removal. To check an existing system for correct work You should light a regular match and bring it to the ventilation duct grille. If the flame goes out, then the system is working properly, otherwise it needs to be adjusted. The same should be done with a small piece of paper. If the paper near the grate sticks to it, then the system is in good working order. If problems are detected in the operation of the ventilation system, first of all you need to clean the existing fans and ventilation ducts.
To properly organize ventilation in the bathroom, you should ensure that you install an exhaust fan of the required power. Before installing an exhaust fan, we recommend taking the following steps to improve the existing ventilation system:
1. Install the fan into the ventilation duct.
2. Install the fan on the surface of the exhaust shaft located on the roof.
3. It is possible to install a ventilation valve in a window.
4. To improve heating in the bathroom and to remove excess moisture, heated towel rails, warm water floor systems or conventional radiators are installed.
Types of ventilation in the bathroom
In relation to air exchange, ventilation in the bathroom is:
- natural;
- forced.
The first option involves removing and circulating air naturally. Doors and open windows are used for this. Air moves from the bathroom to the street due to the difference in pressure. Improved double-glazed windows, which have high tightness, contribute to the disruption of natural ventilation. To solve this problem, it is recommended to purchase windows and doors that have parts for microcirculation.
The second option is artificial ventilation, which is created by installing a fan in the bathroom to promote air circulation. The main function of this system is to discharge the air, that is, to draw it out into the street, and new air enters the bathroom from the adjacent room. With the help of a forced ventilation system it is possible to get rid of not only high humidity in the bathroom, but also from the unpleasant smell in the room.
In relation to the purpose of ventilation, it can be:
- exhaust;
- supply;
- combined.
The first option involves removing air through ventilation ducts. The second type of ventilation is based on ensuring the entry of new air into the room, with the help of which the air is created high pressure, removing old air through ventilation ducts.
The combined option involves the use of the first two types of ventilation in one room.
Depending on the design features, ventilation in the bathroom can be:
- channel;
- ductless.
Using duct-type ventilation, rooms that need intensive air purification from high moisture, steam or foreign odors are cleaned.
The ductless ventilation option involves supplying it through wall openings that have already been installed in the room.
How to check the ventilation system for functionality
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for checking ventilation in the bathroom:
1. Open the window and doors in the bathroom.
2. Take a thin sheet of paper, in the form of a napkin.
3. Install it on an existing vent.
4. If the sheet adheres tightly to its surface, then the system is working properly.
If not, remove the fan and check the vent duct for debris or other objects.
Instead of a napkin, use matches, lighters or candles. They must angle toward the shaft. It is not recommended to check on a very hot day, since the air at this time is quite heavy, and even a working system will not show the correct result.
In order to find out about the need to make micro-ventilation niches in doors or windows, you should repeat the above steps with closed windows and windows.
If there is no air flow, small grilles are installed on the window or doors.
Tip: Even if natural ventilation works flawlessly, it is recommended to install forced ventilation in the bathroom, which will speed up the procedure for removing moisture from the room and help maintain the integrity of the renovation.
DIY bathroom ventilation: choosing a fan
Depending on the installation method, fans are:
- duct - installed in air duct systems;
- radial - mounted on the outlet part air systems, features an aesthetically attractive body.
In relation to design features fans are:
- axial;
- diametrical;
- centrifugal;
- axial-centrifugal.
The first version of the fan involves pumping an axial flow using blades, thus creating a pressure of more than 40 Pa. This type of fan is suitable for installation in a ductless system.
Among the advantages of axial fans it should be noted:
- affordable price;
- ease of installation;
- high efficiency.
Disadvantages include high noise production and low pressure.
The second version of the fan is distinguished by the presence of an impeller in the form of a drum. However, such fans do not have high efficiency.
The centrifugal fan features a spiral casing, which helps achieve high performance, but at the same time produces fairly little noise.
Among the advantages we note:
- high cost;
- installation in channels longer than 500 cm;
- high power;
- low noise level.
Centrifugal axial fan types are characterized by their small size, low noise and excellent performance.
Buying a fan is a rather complicated process, during which you first need to pay attention to its power. The optimal power indicator for a standard bathroom is one hundred cubic meters per 60 minutes.
However, this figure is average. When choosing power, you should be guided by the following factors:
- the number of people living in the house;
- room size;
- the number of windows and doors in the bathroom and their size;
- the presence of additional natural ventilation;
- frequency of use of the bathroom.
In addition, an important factor is the noise level that the fan produces. The most comfortable indicator is forty decibels.
There are fans with additional functions in the form of a timer, automatic on and off. If you have additional funds, it is possible to purchase them, since using such a fan brings maximum comfort.
A hydrostat is a device that is responsible for turning the fan on and off when there is a high level of humidity in the room.
Some types of fans are equipped with special protection against moisture, which is designated IP; the moisture resistance of the device depends on the value of the number after the marking.
If you plan to install the fan near a shower or bathtub, it is recommended to choose a device with the highest protection class. The housing of such a fan provides reliable protection of the engine from moisture, thus improving the service life of the fan.
Ventilation diagram in the bathroom, its arrangement
Most often, ventilation ducts are installed on the walls or ceiling. If there are no air ducts, you should first build them in order to install the fan.
- install the hood so that it is located opposite the door, this will increase air circulation in the room, otherwise the air flow will move very slowly;
- further actions should be aimed at cleaning the existing air duct from debris;
- if there is too narrow hole, take care to expand it with a hammer drill; if the hole, on the contrary, is large enough, then for its equipment you should install fan pipe made of plastic, which is fixed in it with cement mortar;
- to close cavities in the pipe, it is enough to use polyurethane foam;
- Please note that the hood is completely recessed into the hole; only the grille behind which it is hidden remains on the wall;
- To install the hood, self-tapping screws, dowels or sealant-based materials are used; the latter option is the most successful, as it is able to dampen vibrations that occur during operation of the device;
- the hood must be connected to the electrical network, so a special cable of the energy supply direction is connected to it;
- It is possible to install an automatic hood that operates only when the lights are turned on.
Ventilation in a bathroom in a private house: working in the space under the ceiling
If the ceiling in the bathroom is suspended or false panels, suspended ceilings and other types of materials were used to decorate it, as a result of which the under-ceiling space increased, then it is recommended to install ventilation during the renovation of the room.
If the ventilation hole is located below the suspended ceiling, a small hole should be arranged in the under-ceiling space with a grille attached to it, with the help of which moisture from this area will be removed into the room.
If there is ventilation in the ceiling space, to organize air circulation between the main ceiling and the suspended or tension material, care should be taken to install several grates that will remove excess moisture.
In addition, it is welcome to create a small gap, directly above the surface of the door, it will help improve natural ventilation and will extend the life of the ceiling.
Tip: Some bathroom owners remove thresholds to improve ventilation. It is strictly not recommended to do this, since it is the threshold that protects other rooms from water if malfunctions occur that lead to a flood.
Please note that any ventilation system needs careful care; the fan and its grille require frequent washing, as a large amount of dust accumulates on their surface. If the fan malfunctions, you should check it for corrosion caused by high humidity.
Ventilation in an apartment in the bathroom and ways to arrange it
To install ventilation in a bathroom in an apartment, it is not necessary to construct air ducts, since they are necessarily present in it.
Installing a fan, in this case, only involves mounting the device itself on the surface of the air duct.
If there is a channel in the toilet, between which and the bathroom there is a wall, one or two holes should be made in it, which will help the air circulate evenly.
Please note that some ventilation systems are characterized by the presence of special passages that provide both natural and forced ventilation. This option is the most appropriate, as it has good performance.
If there is no ventilation duct in the room, care should be taken to connect it to a special box in which the hood will be installed.
Depending on the design features, ventilation ducts are:
- made of plastic - have a round or rectangular cross-section, are characterized by low noise production, transport air well and are easy to install;
- Corrugated boxes come in two types: hard or soft, they are used when there is a small distance between the ventilation duct or the bathroom.
After installing the box, a fan is installed in it and checked for functionality.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an indispensable condition, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then not only will a persistent smell persist in the bathroom rooms, but it will also quickly create favorable microclimate for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to combat.
Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise upward, and if they do not find a way out, then most of fumes will settle on the surface of the ceiling and the top of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by household members, and this can lead to the appearance of allergic reactions, diseases respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.
Basically, the question of how to carry out an effective one arises before the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is laid out in advance in the building design, and the ventilation ducts are routed to the bathroom and kitchen areas. However, the information can also be useful for apartment owners - the “standard” ventilation system does not always fully cope with its responsibilities, and certain adjustments need to be made to its operation.
Types of ventilation systems
First of all, you should familiarize yourself with existing systems room ventilation.
Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.
- Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special instruments and devices. Exactly similar type ventilation is designed in most apartments multi-storey buildings. The size of ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living spaces with the required volume of air exchange.
- Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, just such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the apartment.
In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:
- Exhaust ventilation. In this system, the air rising to the ceiling is drawn in with the help of a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, this scheme is used in conjunction with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.
For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out through the intake of air from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary premises.
- – in this system the fan works to supply air, and its output is for full cycle ventilation is carried out naturally through ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective release of air to the outside in the required volume.
- The supply and exhaust system involves both the injection of air into the premises and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for large-area houses in which the natural inflow and outflow of air is clearly insufficient.
Fan types
Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural flow of air through “clean” living spaces and forced air exhaust through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their installation locations - axial, channel, roof and radial.
- Axial wall-mounted (overhead) fans.
An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside of which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of an electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.
This type of device is mounted in a ventilation duct window on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to its well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private home and in apartment conditions.
- Duct fans
Duct axial fans have been used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since they self-installation quite complicated. However, sometimes it is impossible to do without them, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².
Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in a bathroom or other rooms of a private house.
This type of fan can be installed in various areas of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped housing, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that free access to the device is provided, since it must be cleaned and lubricated periodically.
There are three types of air ducts into which duct fans are installed: flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.
Flexible channels are quite easy to install, which is why they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. Thrifty owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.
- Radial fans
A radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box with a characteristic spiral shape.
During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which flows from the fan through the outlet of the casing into the air duct.
For installation in residential buildings It is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower indicators of the generated pressure, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a larger operating range and, most importantly, are not so noisy compared to fans with forward-curved blades.
Radial fans tolerate increased loads well and are quite economical to operate.
- Roof fans
As can be understood from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of apartment buildings and private residential buildings.
The design of a roof fan includes such elements as an engine, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration-isolating (damper) pads, and a device for automatic adjustment.
A roof fan can have an axial, multi-blade or radial design. The latter is most in demand, as it is the least demanding and provides high performance at minimum costs for electricity.
Forced ventilation systems can operate both automatically and manual mode, have one pumping level or several speeds.
- Unregulated ventilation has only two mode positions: “on” and “off”.
- A system with several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
- The most economical to operate are fans with adjustable speed, in which the blade wheel is given a rotation speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The speed change occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic monitoring and control units.
Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation
It's time to move on to the issue of choosing what you need and choosing a toilet. But the main question immediately arises about its most important characteristic - productivity, that is, the ability to pump a certain volume of air per unit of time.
It will be difficult to understand this aspect if you first do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for organizing ventilation in a residential building or apartment.
In this matter, it is necessary to rely on the main governing documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89* (“Residential buildings”).
According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in those rooms where it is required by sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or vent, is absent or ordinary ventilation is not enough.
In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, below is generalized information that will be required to calculate ventilation.
| Room type | Ventilation standards | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air flow from outside | Exhaust air outside | ||
| Residential premises | The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times/hour, but the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person. | - | The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living |
| 3 m³ for every 1 m² of residential area | - | The calculation is based on the area of living quarters of the house | |
| Kitchen | |||
| · with electric stove | - | Not less than 60 m³/hour | |
| · with 2-burner gas stove | - | Not less than 60 m³/hour | |
| · with 3-burner gas stove | - | Not less than 75 m³/hour | |
| · with 4-burner gas stove | - | Not less than 90 m³/hour | |
| Bathroom | Inflow from residential premises | Not less than 25 m³/hour | |
| Separate restroom | Inflow from residential premises | Not less than 25 m³/hour | |
| Combined bathroom (bathtub + toilet) individual | Inflow from residential premises | Not less than 50 m³/hour | |
There are, of course, standards in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing rooms, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not particularly interesting to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the above values.
But why do we need to know the indicators of forced natural ventilation in residential areas? But the fact is that an apartment or house should be considered as a single balanced “organism”. In order to be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen areas are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of extracted air cannot be less than that of incoming air. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when selecting ventilation units it is necessary to strive for maximum compliance with it.
∑Qin. = ∑Qout.
∑Qin.– the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.
∑Qout– required performance exhaust ventilation.
Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, into living rooms, accumulation of dampness in corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.
Constantly foggy windows are a sign of poor ventilation
Forever wet surface glass on the windows is half the trouble, just an external sign of a fairly serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in the special publication of our portal.
To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.
The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the air exchange rate for the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to standards for each meter of living space. Then all that remains is to compare the results obtained and select the maximum indicator - this will become the required air flow value for high-quality ventilation.
Well, then, based on the obtained value, it will be possible to move on to the distribution of forced exhaust ventilation volumes in order to achieve the desired equality.
For example, calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.
Having problems calculating the area of premises?
It is usually easiest to take the area from an existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, you will have to calculate it yourself. A special publication on the portal discusses various examples– from the simplest rectangular rooms to unusual rooms complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are available for quick and accurate calculations.
To make the calculations easier, you can make a small table:
| House premises | Air flow from outside | Outdoor hood | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Other data and calculation progress | According to sanitary standards for residents | According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of the premises | According to the standards per 1 m² of usable area | Minimum established | Necessary in real conditions |
| Number of residents | 5 people | - | - | - | - |
| Living room | - | 21 m² | 21 m² | - | - |
| Bedroom 1 | - | 16 m² | 16 m² | - | - |
| Bedroom 2 | - | 14 m² | 14 m² | - | - |
| Children's | - | 17 m² | 17 m² | - | - |
| Dining room | - | 15 m² | 15 m² | - | - |
| Kitchen ( gas stove 4 burners) | - | 12 m² | - | 90 m³/hour | 150 m³/hour |
| Hallway | - | 5 m² | - | - | - |
| Hall | - | 9 m² | - | - | |
| Corridor | - | 3 m² | - | - | - |
| Bathroom | - | 6 m² | - | 25 m³/hour | 50 m³/hour |
| Bathroom | - | 2 m² | - | 25 m³/hour | 50 m³/hour |
| Total area | - | 120 m² | 83 m² | - | - |
| Ceiling height | - | 3.1 m | - | - | - |
| Total volume | - | 120 × 3.1 = 372 m³ | - | - | - |
| Established norm | 30 m³/hour | 0.35 times/hour | 3 m³/1 m² | - | - |
| Calculation | 5 × 30 = 150 | 372 × 0.35 = 130.2 | 83 × 3 = 249 | 90 + 25 + 25 = 140 | 150 + 50 + 50 = 250 |
| Need according to standards | 150 m³/hour | 130.2 m³/hour | 140 m³/hour | ||
So, of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum – 249 m³/hour, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³/hour, and bring to this value the total performance of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.
The kitchen should be given more space - it has a larger area and the ventilation standards in this room are stricter. In our case, it can be allocated 150 m³/hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air exhaust to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.
The remaining 100 m³/hour can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and toilet (if you plan to install individual axial fans for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are united by one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan corresponding performance. Obviously, such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with minimum standards, even with a good margin.
So, all conditions are fully met, and the required performance ventilation unit has also already been defined.
Other criteria for choosing a fan for the bathroom and toilet
It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:
- The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and the surfaces of the walls within which they are laid.
Mechanical noise arises from vibration of the wheel with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.
Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the blade wheel, at the inlet and outlet of air, as it moves through air ducts, as well as during pulsations that occur.
Increased vibration and noise of a ventilation unit can negatively affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.
Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the noise pressure created, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product data sheet (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).
If you purchase a fan with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then you should give preference to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required volume of air not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its intended capabilities. This way, the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will be significantly reduced - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.
It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.
One more important point To reduce the noise level is to install a fan with provided straight sections to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is advisable to leave such areas on both sides (for an axial fan, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 times the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).
- Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.
Axial regular fans They can be operated by manual activation, or they can be built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the lights are turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.
The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the living area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.
The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer on which the on time, operating modes and turn off time of the fan are set.
- Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices that are protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, the packaging of which must have a corresponding label.
When choosing a fan, it is worth checking for a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices in specialized stores, preferably models from well-known manufacturers, whose brand itself provides a certain guarantee for the product. Do not hesitate to request that the necessary sales marks be placed in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service.
Self-installation of ventilation
Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system is multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only enhance the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.
It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all elements of the system during the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work and in an already finished building.
Ventilation system elements
If the type of ventilation system is determined, then you need to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to pre-determined dimensions.
- The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in case of planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then each room can have its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are diverted, then connected to a single air duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
- Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal and have a round or rectangular cross-section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, the rectangular version is more convenient to attach to the ceiling or wall; it can be ideally located above a suspended or suspended ceiling. The round cross-section provides more efficient air removal, since it does not have internal corners, delaying its smooth movement or causing turbulence.
Air ducts rectangular section It’s easier to attach to walls and traffic, but round ones are less “noisy” - Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
- Couplings are used to connect individual sections of the air duct.
- A check valve is installed to avoid reverse air flow when the fan is turned off, or, for example, when there is strong wind outside.
- Elements for securing air ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500÷700 mm, depending on the location.
- Ventilation grilles installed at the inlet and outlet openings of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan installed between two parts of the air duct is selected. One ventilation grille will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing a surface-mounted axial fan.
Ventilation system installation
Installation of the ventilation system is carried out differently, depending on the chosen design, and whether it is being updated or installed anew. Therefore, before proceeding with installation, you should draw up detailed diagram, which will be easier to work with.
- If you decide to update an already installed ventilation system, then it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. If this cannot be done, it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the old air duct of debris and deposits on the stacks.
- Before laying the ventilation duct, you need to determine in advance the installation location of the fan. Optimal place When installing the device, there will be a wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural flow of air in the form of a draft.
- The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand an existing ventilation window to the required size.
- The ventilation duct is led into a hole, then gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the diagram and fixed in the attic of the building, or routed through attic floor and roofing.
- If the channel is led out to the street through outer wall, then it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole on the street side, which is raised vertically by at least 500÷1000 mm. If you install only a protective grille on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly escape through the ventilation in a draft.
- A ventilation pipe exiting through the roof of a building requires reliable waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and secured to the roof.
- Another option for installing the system would be to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which connects to an outlet covered by a protective grille installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with suspended ceiling, and without it, since the box may well pass through the attic.
- In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common air duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the suspended ceiling, and the air duct itself can be led outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed on the street side and covered with a special casing.
- After installing and securing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and secured to the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way for each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account so that the fastening elements do not become loose over time.
- Before finally fixing the overhead axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan to the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed to the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above a suspended structure.
The fan is connected to the power supply through connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent them from being actively exposed to high humidity.
Depending on the design, terminal block It can be located in different ways, but the fan is always accompanied by a connection diagram that will help you navigate this issue.
If you decide to connect the fan to the light switch, then this connection should be made approximately as shown in this diagram:
Connection in this way is carried out in a specially installed distribution box, where the terminals are used to connect the “zero” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting, respectively. The “phase” is interrupted at the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.
By the way, if you think about it carefully, such a scheme is very irrational. Let's simulate a situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture can hardly be completely removed by a fan, and a “pillar of steam” remains in the room. The situation is similar with using the restroom. With such a connection, it would be wiser to provide a time delay of at least 5 ÷ 10 minutes by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.
By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer light and ventilation control devices designed specifically for these purposes.
- When installing duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to be routed through attic space. It will be necessary to lay it through the ceiling electrical cable, and it itself along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be reliably insulated.
- If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct along with the fan can be hidden above the suspended ceiling. In this case, a ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is brought out and fixed, and then this window can be covered with a decorative and functional grille.
Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself
Checking the installed system
After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, you do not need any tools - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grille of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate and the candle flame leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.
If it is necessary to increase draft, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These openings are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.
A barred “window” at the bottom of a bathroom or toilet door Typical reasons for poor performance of the ventilation system
It remains to say a few words about possible cases ineffective operation of the installed ventilation.
There are several reasons that can significantly reduce the draft in the system, and you should pay attention to them first, before rushing to purchase everything necessary elements for carrying out repair and restoration activities:
- Poor initial installation of the ventilation system or incorrect calculation.
- Pollution or blockage of the channel that has arisen during operation - this often happens in a situation where the protective grill on the street side is missing or damaged. A typical reason is that birds can build a nest in such an uncovered pipe or fallen leaves can accumulate.
- Damage to the ventilation system as a result of careless construction work.
If, after checking all of the above possible causes, optimal air exchange is not normalized, only then can you think about replacing the fan itself or even reconstructing the entire system.
High-quality ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an integral element of the comfort and cleanliness of these premises. Unlike other rooms, they are subject to increased demands for convenience and neatness.
The intended purpose of such sanitary facilities implies the need to constantly maintain close to ideal cleanliness. The ventilation system plays one of the leading roles in this process.
Clean and fresh air is an indisputable condition for a comfortable stay in the room. But if in living rooms this condition is quite simple to comply with by means of ventilation through windows, then in the toilet and bathroom there are some difficulties with it. Not every bathroom in a private home can boast of having a sufficient window opening. Features of the location of premises in an apartment rarely imply the presence of a window as such.
Typical multi-apartment buildings, as a rule, “hide” the sanitary area in a “blind” box of a small area with a common air ventilation duct. It is implemented as a small hole under the ceiling, working according to the natural supply and exhaust principle.
Consequences of poor ventilation
Sanitary facilities in apartment buildings equipped with windows are mostly shared bathrooms in non-standard high-rise buildings. However, even if there is window opening ventilation in the bathroom and toilet may not be intense enough, which will certainly cause discomfort for residents and visitors.
In fact, the rooms that most need high-quality cleaning from odors and moisture have the most difficult hood operation mechanism. In addition, the appearance of unpleasant odors is far from the most dangerous problem of poor ventilation of the sanitary area. Accumulated excess moisture is a favorable environment for the development of fungal mold and pathogens.
To avoid violation of hygiene standards, it is recommended to promptly select the appropriate type of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet.
It is also possible to improve existing ventilation - you can do this yourself. This measure is quite relevant for typical high-rise buildings.
Two types of ventilation systems
Determining the optimal way to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet usually comes down to choosing between two main system options - natural and forced. Each of them has its own merits. The comparison of options should be based on the current need and the effectiveness of the established this moment systems.
There are practically no difficulties with how to check the ventilation in sanitary rooms. If stored indoors for a long time bad smell, there is a feeling of stagnant, stale air, the level of humidity noticeably increases - this is a signal to check the condition and effectiveness of the vents. The appearance of fungus on the walls and damp deposits is direct evidence of the need for urgent modernization of the air exchange system.
Hello, Dear friends. Today we will talk about very important, although sometimes not conspicuous, things. When planning the design or renovation of bathrooms, you should always consider the ventilation system. The problem of air exchange is a serious and very important stage of repair. SNIPs and standards regarding ventilation always specify in separate paragraphs the standard of air exchange standards in rooms in which there is an abundant release of water vapor.
It should be remembered that ventilation is not only a matter of comfort and convenience. First of all, it is very important for health. Moreover, in rooms from which water vapor is not removed in proper quantities, fungus or mold always grows.
If harmful flora has already begun to develop under the tiles or on the sides of the shower stall (and it is not so easy to notice the fungus; it develops very secretly for about a year), then the lack of a ventilation system helps it grow and spread in the form of spores through the air.
Construction manuals of all countries and peoples contain a number of standards that must be strictly followed in order to ventilate wet rooms.
Ventilation systems should enrich the bathroom with 25 cubic meters of air every hour. For a combined bathroom (bathtub + toilet), ventilation should bring 50 cubic meters air. Moreover, these standards are minimal.
Experts in ventilated systems advise ventilating the bathroom with an air exchange of 75 cubic meters per hour and 150 cubic meters for combined bathrooms.
There are two types of ventilation for bathrooms: natural and forced. The method of application of each of them depends on the specifics of air exchange. Natural ventilation provides air exchange by sucking it from external environment, which can only take place due to a pressure difference.
Air masses can get inside through a window, door, ventilator, etc. It must be recognized that, in the case of a separate toilet room— natural ventilation is acceptable. However, for combined bathrooms, it often turns out to be ineffective.
Types of ventilation systems
Professionals advise using two types of ventilation systems:
- duct ventilation system;
- ductless ventilation;
The difference between these systems is obvious based on their names - in the first design there is a ventilation duct, in the second - air flow is provided without it.
When working with bathrooms or toilets, it is advisable to eliminate the creation of separate channels. It is customary to create an opening in the wall and exhaust exhaust air into the general ventilation branch of the building. This procedure is not only more convenient and less expensive, but also more rational. Of course, this is applicable in multi-story urban buildings. But, if we are talking about a private house, then it is necessary to design ventilation at the construction stages, during the process of erecting walls.
Air flow into the bathroom and toilet is realized, as a rule, through one channel - in the bathroom, after which an additional intermediate opening is created in the wall between the bathroom and toilet for the passage of exhaust air.
An exhaust fan designed to provide ventilation in the bathtub through the toilet can come in a wide variety of designs and sizes. But the most important thing is the fan power. It must match the current in the wiring.
The fans have the following design differences:
- the axial model moves air parallel to the axis of the device. This is accomplished thanks to special blades. These systems are developed exclusively for ductless designs;
- diametrical models, which have rather low productivity, have special drum-type wheels in their design;
- a centrifugal-type device with a spiral casing guarantees extremely high performance, but during operation the system creates quite a lot of noise;
- The combined centrifugal-axial device is quieter and operates with the same efficiency as a simple centrifugal system.
Norms and requirements
Let's study SNIPs and other regulatory documents in order to understand how much new air should come into the bathroom or toilet during ventilation.
According to regulatory documentation, bathrooms measuring about 10 square meters or more must receive new inflows of air masses once every hour.
More than 30 cubic meters should leave the bathroom and toilet every hour. If the bathroom is large, then the calculation is based on the area of a small living room and multiplied by 1.5 (due to high humidity). These are the ventilation standards, these numbers are the minimum requirements.
Criterias of choice
It should be understood that in cases where natural ventilation in toilets through bathrooms cannot be realized (it is not possible to guarantee an influx of even 20 cubic meters fresh air per hour) means it is necessary to install forced ventilation systems.
There are three types of ventilation:
- exhaust system;
- supply system;
- mixed.
As for exhaust systems, we have already discussed them - air comes from outside, and waste materials are discharged into ventilation ducts.
The principle of supply ventilation is different - air masses are pumped outside the bathroom or toilet, and then forced into the channels. This is the most optimal and rational system for apartments.
When ventilating a bathroom in a private house, it is best to use mixed systems. They combine exhaust and supply systems. Thanks to mixed technologies, air is removed and renewed with the greatest efficiency.
In order to hide the structures, decorative grilles are used. They can not only remove the technical details of ventilation from view, but also make the bathroom interior more stylish.
Household ventilation systems are:
- channel;
- radial.
Both types are intended for installation at the outlets of ventilation ducts. A duct fan usually has a rather mediocre design, since it is hidden in the duct itself. However, radial fans are usually equipped with an attractive housing; these systems not only provide effective air exchange, but also fit perfectly into the design of your interior.
Diagnostics of the current system, if available
Before you start upgrading your ventilation system or cleaning its filters, it is necessary to carry out routine diagnostics. The condition of the ventilation device installed according to the “to the bathtub through the toilet” principle must be studied thoroughly. There is no need to be lazy in removing the grilles and cleaning the inlets and outlets of the channels from dust.
To begin with, you need and. To do this, place a sheet of paper in front of the ventilation hole. If the paper sheet is strongly attracted to the ventilation niches, it means there is draft. If the sheet is motionless, there is a clear lack of ventilation draft in the system.
It must be remembered that the design of the system is such that the pressure difference is due to the temperature difference, therefore on a hot summer day the draft is several times weaker than in winter or autumn.
However, even if the craving is present and the exchange air masses happens perfectly, you need to understand that this does not guarantee 100% complete operation of the ventilation systems.
It is imperative to check the channel status as much as possible as the situation allows. Channels can get cluttered different objects, cobwebs, dust or fragments of concrete and brick after global repairs. Once the system is clean, there are no longer any obstacles in the air’s path, and the ventilation devices clean, you can begin to modernize and improve the system itself.
The test with a sheet of paper must be carried out twice: the first time with closed doors, the second time - with open ones.
Check if available open door It is advisable to carry out this twice too - with open sources of air (open a window or front door) and when completely closed.
If after sealing the draft drops to almost zero, then you need to think about additional fans or compact ventilation devices.
Special grilles are installed in the doors of bathrooms and toilets - through them air flows inside even when the doors are completely closed.
DIY installation
When there is no ventilation system in the bathroom or toilet, then it’s time to start designing and installing it yourself. Such work is performed quite simply.
In apartment buildings, systems are designed so that ventilation ducts are located with reverse side baths and toilets. The whole procedure will consist of carefully creating a hole and leading it into the ventilation channel. High-rise buildings should already have niches leading to ventilation ducts.
It is customary to equip the niches themselves with radial and axial fans; the devices are connected to power sources, one of the wires is connected either to a separate switch or to the same one that opens the light circuit in the bathroom. This is quite convenient, since the fan will be guaranteed to work when the light comes on in the bathroom.
Range modern systems in the market of ventilation products and services allows you to install many additional attachments - gyroscopes, temperature sensors, humidity and speed controllers, timers. After this, the hole is closed with beautiful decorative grilles.
In cases where the bathroom is not combined, when the bathroom contains a ventilation duct but the toilet does not, the same technology is used, only twice. The first fan is installed in a niche between the bathroom. and a channel, the second - in the second niche, between the toilet and the bathroom.
In the case when it is necessary to install ventilation in a toilet in a private house, you can make with your own hands not only the exit to the ventilation duct, but also the ventilation duct itself. Experts advise either taking into account the channels when constructing walls, or correctly connecting them to the exhaust system of the furnace (if there is one).
Let's move on to practical diagrams and designs of ventilation systems.
System design
To install fans in wall openings, the most correct thing is to use not only decorative grilles, but also filtration systems. If you have to knock out an additional hole between the bathroom and the toilet (to conduct air), then the filter between the two rooms is a very rational part of the ventilation system. After all, polluted air from the toilet will not be able to penetrate into the bathroom.
Let us present in the figure a diagram for connecting the fan to the general wiring:
The ventilation system installation scheme consists of the following strategic steps:
- mounting the air duct (it is important to choose the correct diameter and length);
- design an optimal exhaust system for bathrooms (taking into account the power of the electrical wiring);
- Make a neat, even hole in the toilet with your own hands (you can also use a professional);
- Install ventilation in the toilet or bathroom;
When ventilation systems need to be implemented in toilets and bathrooms of private houses, it is necessary to start by organizing the connection of the ventilation duct to the common chimney; or create a ventilation duct.
When designing a new channel, it is necessary to carefully calculate all the stages of laying ventilation through the bathroom.
We advise you not to use metal ducts to create a ventilation duct for a private house. Not only that metal constructions oxidize and require dismantling and replacement every 5 years. If the ventilation duct for exhaust air is used with direct exit to the chimney, then due to carbon dioxide, metal surface the box will become even more corroded.
The most rational way is to install plastic boxes. No wonder they almost completely replaced metal ones from the market.
Try to avoid corrugated pipes; they are optimal only for short ventilation ducts.
The boxes must be installed during all repair work. Moreover, it is advisable to carry out the installation before the process starts.
However, even after you have personally designed the entire system, made sure that it functions and complies with all standards, ventilation may fail. The problem may be with inaccuracies in calculating the cross-sections of ventilation ducts. Also, the most frequent mistakes is incorrect installation.
If a lot of time has passed after you built the ventilation system, and after this time the system began to noticeably malfunction, it means that a lot of debris has most likely accumulated in the channel, which falls either from the roof or from the air. If one of the neighbors did this major renovation, which affected the box, then the reason may be traffic jams construction waste located across the air passage.
- Experts advise not to put off inspecting the ventilation system until later; it is highly advisable to service the fans a little earlier before they begin to fail.
- As a rule, if inspection is constantly delayed, then flakes of dust, cobwebs or poplar fluff get into the fan axis, block the rotor and stator motor for a long time, after which the fan simply fails.
- Of course, buying a new motor or fan entirely is a simple solution to this issue, but you will still have to clean the ventilation duct. It is much easier to do this work on time.
- Do-it-yourself steps regarding fans include cleaning the blades of the fan propellers, thoroughly cleaning the ventilation grilles and replacing all filters (if any).
- After this, you need to check the air draft using a sheet of paper or the flame of a lighter (we described above how this procedure is performed). If the flame from the lighter (or match) is deflected at an angle of 40-50 degrees, then the operation of the fan is considered normal; if the flame does not deflect, then the ventilation duct is considered clogged and further operation of the fan is a load.
- In such cases, it is best to call a specialist, but you can also handle it yourself. If the ventilation system includes various attachments— external interfaces, sensors, thermometers, remote controls, then you should definitely contact a special organization.
- Experts also pay special attention to the power of household wiring and electrical networks. Fans have two parameters by which they are distinguished - the pressure created and power. These characteristics are related because the greater the motor power, the stronger the pressure. You need to know the condition of your wiring well and try to avoid high-power fans.
To ensure that the bathroom and toilet are always dry and comfortable, it is necessary to properly install ventilation. Properly installed ventilation means the absence of mold in the corners and on the ceiling, the absence of an unpleasant smell of dampness in the room and the key to the health of not only your legs, but also your whole body.
To install ventilation correctly, you need to follow certain rules, which we will discuss below.
Types of ventilation
First, let's look at what types of ventilation there are in order to choose the type that best suits your home.
The following types are distinguished:
Fan selection
The basis of the ventilation system is the fan. If you choose it correctly, unpleasant odors will leave your toilet and bathroom forever. First, calculate the area of the ventilated room. The next thing you should definitely pay attention to when choosing a fan is the noise level. Choose a fan with a minimum noise level within the range of 0 to 40 decibels. It is practically silent to the human ear. It is best to choose a fan that operates with a ball bearing because they are highly durable and long lasting.
Types of fans
Fans are divided into the following types:
- fans with two buttons - on and off;
- having the ability to be powered from a light source, i.e. when the light is turned on, the fan turns on;
- timer;
- controlled by remote control.
When purchasing a fan, be sure to pay attention to its performance. This is perhaps the main indicator by which you need to choose a fan. If the fan is low-power, then the air in the bathroom or toilet will not be directed into the exhaust duct, thereby worsening the atmosphere not only in the bathroom, but throughout the apartment.
Important! The best is a fan that can provide a change of air in the toilet or bathroom in two hours.
Ventilation device in the bathroom and toilet
There are no differences between the design of the ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet, so let’s consider the general structure. The ventilation system looks like this:
Without a doubt, the system is complex, but it is impossible to do without it.
Cleaning the ventilation duct
Before installing the ventilation system, be sure to check the air permeability of the ventilation ducts. If during inspection you find that the ventilation duct is clogged, there is no point in installing a fan until the duct is cleaned. To do this, take a brush that is used to clean a fireplace chimney, and as far as your hand can reach, clean the channel. There is another simple cleaning method, but more dangerous. Take a can of gas, spray the gas inside the channel and set it on fire. This way you can quickly clean the channel from the cobwebs and dust that have collected there. Just be very careful! If you live in an apartment building, and each apartment is equipped with its own ventilation duct, then you can clean it as follows. Tie a weight to the rope and lower it into the channel, carefully rotating the suspension.
But this option is not applicable if there is only one ventilation shaft and the remaining risers enter it at right angles.
Important! Before installing the ventilation system, call the housing and communal services service to have professionals clean the ventilation duct.
Installation of ventilation in the bathroom
There are several installation methods:
- calling specialist installers;
- installation of a climate control system in absolutely the entire house or apartment;
- installing ventilation yourself.
It is the latter method that we will dwell in more detail on.
Installation of a forced ventilation system
It’s very easy to create natural ventilation in your house, but you’ll have to tinker a little with forced ventilation. But by following simple rules, you will install the system as well as any specialist. First you need to check the ventilation shaft. To do this, bring a lit match to the shaft. If the flame burns evenly or extends slightly into the shaft, then the shaft will have to be cleaned, but if the fire is almost sucked in, then everything is in order with the air duct and installation can begin.
If you can't install the fan directly into the duct, that's okay, you just need to buy a few meters of duct, which you can then hide in the ceiling or decorate it. There are several types of hoses:
If you had to extend the duct, you will need a duct.
It is most convenient to install ventilation in direct connection with the switch. To do this, simply run a cable from the fan to the switch, and the ventilation will work when the light is on in the bathroom or toilet.
Installing a duct fan will help simplify installation. This fan is installed directly into the air duct and turns on only when it is really necessary.
To install the ventilation system you will need:
- fan and accessories for it;
- ventilation grille;
- adhesive sealant;
- screwdriver;
- dowel-nails;
- additional air duct in case the fan does not reach the built-in one.
When installing the fan, observe the following rules:
This way you can hide the wires behind tiles or cable ducts.
You can clearly see how to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands in the video:
Important!! If you don’t know how to install a ventilation system or you can’t do it, call a specialist to your home.
If your house is made of wood, ventilation is much better. With the help of a draft created open window or a door and small cracks between the logs, all odors will be removed much faster. But despite this advantage, a ventilation system must be installed.
Forced ventilation is suitable for both non-combined and common bathroom and toilet ventilation systems.
Sometimes a door with a ventilation grille is used as an auxiliary element for ventilation. If you don't want to mess up the design of the door, you can simply leave a larger gap between the door and the floor. This will ensure ventilation and the door will remain intact.
Once you have installed the ventilation system, you will need to cover the pipe so that it is not visible. To do this, you can use a plasterboard box that is placed directly on the fan. In this case, the holes should remain.
Important! Never completely cover the vent, as air will not be able to flow fully into the vent. This also contradicts the norms for the operation of residential premises.
Check valve for ventilation
Sometimes the ventilation system does not cope with its function, and the air that should be exhausted flows back into the room or remains there. To fix this problem, just install check valve. Their design is very simple, but their purpose is truly important. With the help of a non-return valve, all exhaust air is sent to ventilation pipe. There are:
- installed horizontally;
- installed vertically.
When choosing a check valve, you need to consider what kind of ventilation system you have. So, if the air duct is located vertically, then, accordingly, the direction of the air should be vertical, which means we install a horizontal check valve. If the ventilation system is located horizontally, then your choice is a vertical valve. The valve blades must ensure proper air movement, so the direction of the ventilation system is inversely proportional to the type of valve.
Important! The higher throughput valve, the greater its power.
Causes of poor ventilation system performance
If, after installing the ventilation system, problems arise in its operation, then errors may have been made during installation. Poor system performance can be explained by:
- incorrect layout of the ventilation system of the entire room or building (if it is apartment house). Unfortunately, there is no way to fix this;
- errors made in calculations during installation. It is possible that there were inaccuracies in the measurements, which subsequently caused the fan to be positioned incorrectly;
- defective fan and other parts used during installation. If the situation improves when replacing the fan and other components, it means that the fault is to blame; if not, then it is better to call a technician;
- damaged ventilation systems of other apartments.
Important! When purchasing components, be sure to check the integrity of all items! Ask the consultant absolutely all questions about the design of the fan and the system as a whole. When installing, be as careful as possible.
So that you can see with a live example how a ventilation system is installed in a bathroom and toilet, because the installation principle is the same, we suggest watching the video:
