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Fastening window slopes. Methods for finishing window slopes from the inside. Video: installation of plastic window slopes

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Installation of slopes plastic windows

Among the numerous companies that install plastic windows and doors, it is very difficult to find those that would immediately deal with slopes. In the time spent completing slopes for one opening, company employees can install 4–5 windows and get much more more money. And some types of slopes cannot be done within one day; the technology requires time for the material to harden and dry, this further discourages them from engaging in such services. In addition, the very need to install slopes changes the algorithm of action of the “installers” of plastic windows. They must remove the old windows very carefully so as not to cause major damage. existing finishing, carefully consider the specific location for mounting the frame, taking into account the thickness and material of the walls. No slopes - no problems, here is the method for installing plastic windows by company employees.

Another nuisance for window installers is that if you make the slopes yourself, you need to control the distance between the frame and the window opening. This way you can make further installation easier. decorative elements window opening. And ordinary installation requires them only to drill four holes for dowels in vertical walls opening, fixing the frame under the level and foaming the cracks. After this, the craftsmen receive their money, and the owner is forced to hire another team of builders for finishing windows or do it yourself.

Important. If the windows are installed by company employees, be sure to require them to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust and dirt, and moisten them generously with water before foaming.

In most cases, such work is not done; the strength of the structure’s fixation is significantly reduced. Later, under the influence of wind loads or during opening/closing of the cocoon, the frames become slightly looser, and cracks appear near the slopes and frames you made. It is useless to eliminate them; to eliminate the defects, you will have to strengthen the frame fastenings. In terms of labor intensity, this work is no different from the work of installing plastic windows. Essentially, you will have to redo the work for which money has already been paid.

Only inexperienced developers might think that there is no difference between internal and external slopes. It exists, and is quite significant. Understanding the features of arranging external slopes will make it possible to avoid mistakes and improve them appearance and increase operating time.

As you can see, installing external slopes is not such a simple matter; work very carefully and carefully.

Prices for platbands and accessories for windows and doors

Platbands and trims for windows and doors

Preparatory work

So, the plastic window is installed, the mounting foam has hardened. The factory plastic film on the frames and sashes has not been removed. If it is not there, then you will have to take measures to protect surfaces from contamination and mechanical damage.

We will look at several options for making external slopes for plastic windows, starting with the most practical and reliable - from cement-sand mortar.

Plastering slopes on brick houses

Before starting work, decide what kind of ebb it will be: galvanized iron or standard plastic.

The installation algorithm depends on the material of manufacture. The frame of plastic windows has a special groove in the lower part; the ebb should be inserted into it. “Live” it and see at what angle it lies, at what distance from the walls. Make marks; they will be useful to you when plastering the lower slope.

Take the same dimensions on the sides and top of the opening, find out the required thickness of the plaster. The larger it is, the more difficult it will be to make a slope. After taking measurements, analyzing the condition and developing a work plan, you can begin plastering the slopes.

Prepare a cement-sand mixture based on approximately 2.5–3 parts of sand per part of cement, but no more. The solution must be greasy, otherwise it will begin to crumble after repeated freezing/thawing. Everything will have to be remade or used various ways surface protection. In addition, an increased amount of cement increases the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the walls, and this is very important for slopes.

Step 1. Protect the surface double glazed windows from pollution. Use for this plastic film and tape. Cover all areas where the mass may get trapped. Glue the tape firmly so that the film does not fall off during operation.

Step 2. Cut off the foam that protrudes beyond the frame planes. If there are large gaps after foaming, fill them. You can use a solution or various sealants. Cut the foam with a sharp knife using continuous movements, avoiding tears. How better insulation– the less heat loss. But that's not all. If cold bridges form along the perimeter of the frame, then condensation appears on the slopes, which causes the growth of fungi and mold. Microorganisms not only negatively affect building construction and materials, but can also cause various allergic reactions.

Step 3. Prepare your tools. You will need grout, a trowel, a plumb line or level, dowels, a spray bottle or a brush to wet the surfaces with water.

Working tools

Craftsmen often mention mulka for slopes. We need to dwell on this topic in more detail. What is malka and what is it used for?

Malka is a tool with which you can level plaster at different angles. We have already said that slopes need to be made at obtuse angles, due to this the clearance of the window opening increases. You can buy malka ready-made in a store, make it yourself, or replace it with a simple device.

A standard fry consists of two metal strips, connected by a hinge. After selecting the desired angle, the strips are clamped in the hinge with a screw. It can also be made from wooden planks, but it takes a long time; for one-time work, there is no point in wasting so much time on several windows.

If you have an irresistible desire to level the angles of the slopes using a crowbar, then you can make it from one board. One end is cut at the desired angle; it will rest against the window frame. The second part of the stick slides along a guide board fixed to the wall. But there is another way to maintain the desired slope angle, which is used by all professionals. We will tell you how they work below. We assure you that this method allows you to achieve excellent quality and at the same time not waste any time on making a fry or a special device.

It is advisable to pre-spray the surface with cement-sand milk. This is the same solution, only very liquid. The milk will perform two tasks: it will moisturize very dry bricks and increase the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

Step 5. Install the guide rail on the wall. To do this, you need to fix a thin board with absolutely straight sides on the wall above the window opening. The side edge of the board should be horizontal, fasten it with dowels, the holes in the wall will then be sealed without any problems. Fasten it securely; it should not wobble, much less fall off. One end of the rule will slide across the board.

Step 6 If you need to apply plaster of large thickness, then this should be done in several stages. Apply the first layer about 2-3 cm thick and let it dry a little. Then add a second layer and so on until there is about a centimeter left until the final leveling of the slope. Apply the mortar with the back of the trowel; only throwing it on will ensure that all the cracks on the surface are completely filled.

Important. Beginners often fail to throw, don’t worry, learn, after a while you will gain experience. But never try to spread the solution on the surface, nothing will come of this idea. You can lubricate a little only the recesses obtained after throwing. But that’s not how professionals work. They always throw it on, and take different amounts of solution for different purposes.

Step 7 You can level the mass with a small or ordinary plank. We have already talked about malka, now we will tell you how professionals work. They prepare an ordinary flat strip, the length should exceed the width of the slope by about 10 cm. As for the width, there is a special requirement: it should not exceed the width of the gap from the sash to the end window frame. Next, leveling the solution on the upper slope is done as follows:

• one end of the rail rests against the frame, the side edge is pressed tightly against the sash. The second end of the batten will slide along the board;
• slowly move the rail along the board and sash in a zigzag motion, the mass protruding beyond the thickness of the slope is leveled;
• in a place where there is a gap between the sashes, remove the rail from one sashes and install it on the next one. Don’t worry that after rearranging it there will be a small bump left; it can be smoothed out without any problems with a grater.

Step 8 After the excess mass is pulled off by the lath, depressions of various parameters will inevitably remain on the surface. Large ones need to be repaired with a trowel. Take some of the mass onto a plywood stand, use the back of the trowel to scoop out small portions and fill in the holes. The mass must be glued with force. Keep the plywood under the area to be sealed; all excess weight will fall onto it.

Step 9 Wait 40–50 minutes for the solution to harden. Once it has become a little stronger, start working with the iron. Do not apply much force, work in circular movements, constantly monitor the position work surface smoothers (grouts). If the solution has hardened too much, moisten it with water. Work carefully in slope corners. You can correct the corners with a trowel or a spatula, there is no difference. Use those tools that are more familiar and easier to work with.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Now you can move on to the vertical slopes. Before finishing the sides, install the flashing in place. The technology for its installation depends on the type chosen. But in all cases, one condition must be observed - the protruding part of the ebb should fit tightly into a special seat on the frame of the plastic window. Take all measures to ensure that water from double-glazed windows does not get into the space between the frame and the ebb. To guarantee, you can coat the seat with silicone.

Step 1. Place the ebb in place and mark its location on the top surface on the side surfaces of the window opening. Do not forget that the ebb should be installed at an angle for reliable water drainage.

Step 2. Remove it and use a cement-sand mixture to level the lower slope at the level of the marked lines. While working, use the same tools that you used on the upper slope. You don’t have to achieve a particularly clean surface; it will still close.

Step 3. After the mixture has hardened, install the molding on the window. Cover it with cloth or film to prevent possible contamination or damage.

Now you can begin to finish the side surfaces of the slopes. The work production algorithm is almost no different. First, boards are installed on the sides, the position is leveled with a level or plumb line. Next, the solution is thrown, leveling is always done from the bottom up, so less mass falls on the ebb. It lingers on the surface of the rule and is thrown into the container.

Finishing work

On the second day, you can remove the guide boards. Remove the holding nails or dowels, do not open the rail towards yourself, but carefully pull it away from the slopes, press it tightly against the wall. This way you will be able to avoid chipping the fresh plaster.

There will definitely be small gaps under the board, fill them with a trowel, and smooth the surfaces with grout. After the slopes are completely dry, the surfaces can be painted with façade water-based paint(white or colored) or make decorative plaster the same material as on façade walls Oh.

Plastic slopes

This option is not common, but has a right to life. The use of plastic slopes makes it possible to complete the production of slopes in one day. We do not recommend doing them for one reason - the service life of plastic slopes is approximately 15 years, do you really want to do it again after this time? construction work? Slopes are made of plastic panels for external works, color and texture must be in harmony with the appearance of the facade walls of the building.

A supporting frame must be made for plastic slopes. It can be made from rolled metal or wooden slats. Fundamental difference no, lumber is reliably protected from exposure to precipitation, the service life is the same as that of metal. We will consider making the most simple option frame - made of wooden slats.

Step 1. Select slats of the required length and thickness. They must fit into the space between the wall and the window frame. If necessary, straighten the wall surface a little or reduce the thickness of the slats in some places. The slats need to be fixed along the perimeter of the slope: below and above and on both sides of the opening. If the plastic windows are large, then install several additional slats on all planes. Pre-fix them liquid nails, foam the cracks polyurethane foam. After the foam has hardened, the slats can be fixed to the wall with several dowels to increase stability. But it is not necessary to do this, the frame will hold very firmly anyway. The foam that appears after hardening will be cut off.

Step 2. Install guide boards on the walls on top and on both sides of the opening. How this is done is described above.

Step 3. Replace the low tide. The installation technology depends on the type of product.

Step 4. Check the position wooden frame. All slats should lie in the same plane, side, bottom and top slopes at an angle. Maintain the verticality of the side slopes.

Step 5. Take exact dimensions, prepare plastic panels and decorative corners.

Practical advice. It is better to start installing panels from the fixation side. In this place the panels have a beautiful curve; nothing additional needs to be sealed. Cut a thin strip of plastic to which the staples or nails are attached, and press this edge against the frame.

Step 6 Measure and cut each panel separately. You can cut it with a mounting knife, electric jigsaw or Bulgarian. This operation is best done on a trimming machine. ceramic tiles– the angle is precisely adjusted, the cut is perfectly smooth, “factory-made”.

Step 7 Fix the plastic slopes with a stapler, small nails or self-tapping screws in the place specified by the manufacturer. Press the panels tightly, leaving no gaps. If the window large sizes, then the slope is additionally glued to the wooden transverse slats with liquid nails.

Step 8 Cover the corners with decorative corners and secure them with liquid nails. Cut the corners at the joints at an angle of 45°.

This option for making slopes is best used if the entire house is decorated with plastic panels. Even while finishing the walls, consider the possibility of making a frame for slopes.

Advice from professionals. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to cut corners exactly at an angle of 45°; there is always a gap at the junction points. Of course, it can be covered with sealant or silicone, but the correction is noticeable and the appearance deteriorates. We recommend cutting only one corner at a 45° angle and the other at a 90° angle. The lower part of the square is cut off from the corner at 45°, and the thin upper one overlaps the one cut at 90°. This technique completely eliminates the possibility of gaps forming, there are no joints, the elements overlap. No matter what angle you cut at, the cut will always be on the bottom whole area.

Prices for plastic slopes

Plastic slopes

How to install slopes on special profiles

To make a slope you will need plastic profiles and sandwich panels.

The sizes of the panels are selected taking into account the window parameters. During the installation process, pieces are cut from the entire panel according to the dimensions of the vertical and horizontal slopes. You can cut with a grinder with a metal disc, an electric jigsaw, a mounting knife or other tools. If burrs are formed during circumcision, they are removed with the tip of a knife or sandpaper.

Step 1. A plastic U-shaped profile is screwed around the perimeter of the window frame. Check the horizontal and vertical position carefully. The ends of plastic slopes are installed in this profile. Use small self-tapping screws to secure.

Important. It must be remembered that integrity violations metal profile using self-tapping screws on a window frame negatively affects its performance.

First, fix the two outer screws, and after checking the position of the element, screw in the fasteners every 15–20 cm.

Step 2. Make sure the sizes are correct. Everything is fine - insert the slope into the profile. To make work easier, use a piece of plastic. Insert it into the gap between the panel and the profile and gradually move it along the panel, pressing on the end. The element will fit into the seating groove along its entire length without much effort.

Step 3. Stick strips onto the second (free) end of the slope masking tape and leave free pieces. With their help, it will then be fixed to the wall before foaming. The tape will prevent the slopes from bending under the influence of expanding foam.

Step 4. Carefully seal the gap between the slope and the wall, install the elements in a horizontal position and secure its positions with loose pieces of tape. Don't forget to wet the surfaces. Water not only improves adhesion, but also speeds up the hardening of the foam.

Prices for polyurethane sealant

Polyurethane sealant

Step 5. Cut off any excess foam. Depending on the material and technology of finishing the external walls, install decorative corners or trims.

That's all, using the same algorithm you can finish all remaining plastic windows, regardless of their size and method of opening/closing.

Wooden slopes

Such slopes are installed on houses made of rounded logs without additional outer skin or on houses made of ordinary timber, external walls which are finished with natural lining.

For the street, you can use two options for slopes: from natural lining or furniture board. The furniture board is made from laminated boards - eliminating the possibility of deformation under the influence of precipitation. Wide boards will definitely warp and will not be suitable. If they are firmly fixed to the frame, there will be no warping, but very deep cracks will form. In this regard, it is not recommended to use them as a material for making slopes. Using an example, we will consider an option made from furniture board with a thickness of approximately 1 cm.

Step 1. Take the dimensions and cut the slope blanks according to them. Do everything with maximum precision, furniture panels are expensive. Use only serviceable and adjusted tools, follow safety precautions. Woodworking machines and tools belong to the category of the most dangerous mechanisms; injuries from them are very serious. The sketch of the slopes can be quite complex, all sides are at different angles, etc. If you have little experience in taking dimensions, make a template out of cardboard. Adjust its dimensions several times until it accepts suitable look. Using the template, cut out the side and top slopes for each plastic window.

Step 2. Set the tide, do not forget to make a slope. To increase the strength of the drain, it is recommended to make a frame. For manufacturing, it is better to use 20x50 mm slats; be sure to soak them with an antiseptic. If not, dry the slats well in a warm room or under a fan and cover them several times with ordinary vegetable oil, it perfectly protects against putrefactive processes.

Step 3. Try on the slope, install it flush into the gap between the plastic window frame and the wall. Level its position.

Step 4. Secure the wood jamb in place. To do this, you need small screws or nails and cutting slats about ten centimeters long. Nail the slats to the slope and the frame, certainly at the top and bottom, the distance between the fixing points is no more than 20 cm. A strong fastening is a necessary condition for the next operation.

Step 5. Using a spray bottle, thoroughly moisten the gap between the slope and the wall. Fill it with polyurethane foam. If the width of the slope is large, then foaming will have to be done in two steps. To prevent the foam from bending the wooden slope, we secured it securely with slats.

Step 6 After hardening, cut off the remaining foam and check the strength of fixation of the slopes. Practice shows that no additional fastenings are needed.

Step 7 Prepare the platbands. Wooden slopes must be finished with platbands. Nail them to the slopes with nails or self-tapping screws; the fastening points can be puttied.

When choosing plastic materials for slopes, be sure to pay attention to resistance to ultraviolet rays. Never work with plastic interior spaces, it is categorically unsuitable for street slopes.

Metal porch: installation instructions Window sills

To complete the installation of the front door or windows, you need to finish the slopes. A door or window slope can be made using plaster, drywall, and plastic panels.

The most common option for facing slopes is plastic panels. Since finishing window slopes plastic inside is universal solution. It should be noted that this building material is used for interior and exterior work.

Advantages of plastic

Previously used for lining house slopes plastering method, then plasterboard, which was widely used for sheathing. But with the advent of PVC windows, plaster and drywall faded into the background. Since finishing slopes using the plaster method has significant disadvantages. The main disadvantages include:

• If you plaster the slopes yourself, it takes quite a lot of time.
• This type of finishing creates a lot of construction waste.
• Due to shrinkage and temperature changes, cracks may appear on the surface.
• The component elements do not form the required adhesion to the plastic, as a result of which the slopes peel off from the window.

To properly plaster a window opening you should use perforated corner and lighthouses. The perforated corner is installed on the outer corners of the slope. To do this, you need to cut off a corner of the required size, apply putty to the slopes and press the perforated corner. The plaster beacon is installed vertically along the window frame. To do this, the beacon should be cut off the right size, apply putty along the box and attach the prepared parts. After 40 minutes, you can plaster the slopes.

Such finishing material, like drywall, provides the opportunity to make slopes faster and warmer. But even the moisture-resistant version of this material cannot withstand temperature changes and the influence of condensation. PVC slopes the windows have a more interesting appearance.

But beauty is not their only advantage; positive characteristics include:

• The panels are made of the same material as the window frame, hence the window space P The premises acquire a monolithic structure.
• It is enough to simply install the insulation. It should be noted that with proper insulation, condensation is impossible.
• Installation of plastic panels creates virtually no debris or noise.
• This kind of building material can be used externally and internally, since polyvinyl chloride does not emit harmful substances.
• Insensitive to moisture.
• Duration of use.
• Tolerates temperature changes perfectly.
• Easy to use.
• The building material has an excellent pricing policy, therefore, it is available to anyone who wants to install plastic window slopes with their own hands.

The disadvantages of plastic include the impracticability of fragmentary restoration.

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes for windows (video)

Selection of building materials

Before you think about how to make plastic slopes yourself, you need to consider possible variations in materials. There are 2 types of plastic panels:

1. Decorative.
2. Sandwich panels.

Decorative slopes can be used:

• For the formation of partitions.
• As a facing building material for balconies.

For all other purposes, preference should be given to sandwich panels. This kind of material differs in that it has 2 protective layers and a facing layer of insulation. This structure allows you to avoid additional insulation. Key points panel selection:

1. Preference should be given to building materials made from virgin plastic. Since the correct material is chosen, it will not change color, and the composition will not cause damage to health.
2. It is better to choose a material with a significant plastic cover. Panels with thin sheet PVC coated not durable. Over time, the plastic peels off the surface.

Finishing window slopes with plastic requires the following materials:

• Profile.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Dowels.
• Wooden slats.
• Gypsum insulation wool.
• Liquid Nails.

Preparatory moments

To finish the inside of window slopes with plastic in a high-quality manner with your own hands, you need to clean the walls and prepare all the necessary equipment and building materials. To form slopes, the thickness of the plastic strip should be 8 mm. The width and duration of the plastic must correspond to the size of the opening. You should prepare and clean the walls step by step:

1. Remove excess foam.
2. WITH window profile You need to remove the shipping tape.
3. Seal internal seams.
4. The upper reaches and sides of the hole must be freed from whitewash and leveled with putty.
5. It is recommended to wipe the prepared area and apply 1-2 layers of primer.

Technologists I formation and installation

After preparing the opening around the circumference, you should glue vapor barrier film. At the combination points, sections of the film should be laid with an excess of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The tape must be glued so that the edges do not extend beyond the window frame. After this, you can proceed to the formation of slopes using the following instructions:

• Fastening lumber material. For these purposes, wooden slats with a thickness of 15 mm and a width of 40 mm are taken. The slats should be trimmed to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. The slats need to be secured with dowels around the circumference of the opening. If the walls of the hole are wavy, then it is recommended to place wedges under the planks.
• Take the necessary measurements carefully . It should be understood that all measurements must be taken from the frame, and not from the edge of the special profile.
• Open the slopes. The length and width of the walls of the hole should be correctly measured, and attention should also be paid to the angle of inclination on each side. You should mark the cutting points on the slab and cut out the workpieces. The resulting elements should be attached to the wall and their location and angular fit should be checked.
• Special profile fastening. A special profile should be attached along the outer edge of the opening with short screws. When joining the bars together, the special profile should be secured in the corners so that no gaps are formed. Installation of slopes begins with the manufacture of edging. This structural component is made from an F-shaped profile. All manipulations should begin from the top element. The profile must be cut to the size of the external opening and the corners must be filed at 45 degrees. The prepared special profile should be attached to the block so that it can be covered with plastic, but not block the groove for fixing the slope.

• The profile is fixed to the beam with staples. The remaining sections are mounted in a similar way. The prepared slope element must be placed in a special profile, pre-coated with sealant. The resulting gap between the plastic and the wall must be sealed with insulation. It should be noted that the layer insulation material should not be overly massive or have vacuums. The outer edge of the slope must be inserted into the groove of the special profile and pressed to align the panel. Next, you should sew up the side slopes, while carefully distributing the thermal insulation. If the external walls are insulated, then such manipulations with the slopes do not need to be performed. In such a situation, the gaps between the panels and the base of the slopes should be sealed with foam.
• The final period involves attaching decorative corners, which should be glued with glue. The contact points between the panels must be degreased and all cracks must be sealed. acrylic sealant. Acrylic should be squeezed directly into the gap, rubbed and leveled, and any excess should be removed with a damp cloth. All manipulations should be done on small areas and wipe gently clean. Because while the acrylic has not hardened, it can be removed quite easily. The area of ​​the opening under the window sill is being plastered.

PVC slope cladding

Advice! You can veneer window slopes in another way, which differs significantly from the previous one. This method allows you to sheathe a window slope using any PVC material. It should be noted that this option is used when installation seam has a small interval, that is, the distance from the frame to the wall is minimal.

The initial stage should be carried out in stages:

• Cleaning.
• Elimination of defects.
• Applying primer.

Sheathing slopes should adhere to the following rules:

1. Remove excess foam, making sure that the cut is placed flush with the surface of the frame.
2. Facing slopes with plastic plates involves treating the surface with a primer. Preference should be given to penetrating formulations with the addition of antiseptic components.
3. Fixing slats.
4. An important point is trimming the polyurethane foam. The cutting is done in such a way that a groove is formed for fixing the plastic. Trimming is done in close proximity to the frame to ensure maximum adherence of the material.
5. Reveal the details.

After the manipulations have been performed, a number of actions should be performed:

• Using a jigsaw you need to cut plastic. As a rule, burrs may remain along the edges, which can be removed with sandpaper.
• Performing preliminary installation. This manipulation will allow you to determine the presence of defects. If double-sided plastic is used for facing slopes, then one side needs to be sanded a little, thereby indicating the wrong side of the material. Carrying out such manipulation promotes better adhesion. Since PVC panels are fixed using polyurethane foam.
• The prepared elements are placed in the right place. They need to be installed in the prepared groove. Using a level, the structure is leveled.
• The outer edge of the part is moved back and foam is poured into spots.
• All structural parts are attached to each other using masking tape. Fixation is carried out along the circumference of the structure and at the joining points.

Important! Beginning craftsmen have a question: how long will it take for complete drying? As a rule, it will take a day for thorough drying. After which additional finishing activities. It should be remembered that external slopes also require attention.

Quite often, siding is used for such purposes. Working with building materials does not cause any particular difficulties due to the characteristics of the material. But if difficulties arise, then on the Runet there are many videos and photos with detailed instructions regarding siding installation. Simplicity installation work will allow you to do the cladding yourself.

Photo gallery of finished works

Installing plastic windows also involves installing slopes for them. As a rule, slopes are made of the same material as the windows themselves. Slopes are designed to hide flaws window openings, installation details and other elements.

What is the purpose of plastic slopes?

Proper arrangement of window slopes helps give the window a finished look. Thanks to them, drafts through window openings are eliminated, but this is only if the slopes are installed correctly and carefully.

Polyurethane foam is laid between the window and the wall to insulate and strengthen the window. If it is not hermetically sealed, this can lead to the destruction of the foam and deterioration of the aesthetic beauty of the window.

Slopes can be external and internal. They are respectively located with the outer and inside window. A window sill is installed inside the window and the side and top parts are decorated.

In the old version, the slopes were made of wood and painted after plastering the surface.

IN modern designs prefer the installation of thin plastic slopes, which are very easy to clean, and they look very neat with plastic windows.

Plastic slopes have gained popularity due to the fact that they provide good sealing, are resistant to bad weather, and provide good sound insulation.

The previous wooden slopes had to be periodically plastered and repainted to prevent the wood from being destroyed.

Sometimes, window installation technologies are violated, and the windows fog up inside. This causes a lot of inconvenience to apartment residents. Plastic slopes will prevent the windows from “sweating”, heat escaping and noise from entering from outside the window.

Thanks to modern technologies, now anyone can easily make slopes from PVC plates.

What are the advantages of plastic slopes?

There are several types of slopes on the market: plasterboard, plaster finishing and from PVC plates. Here, plastic has a number of advantages:

• high wear resistance;
• aesthetic appeal;
• harmonious combination with plastic windows;
• plastic slopes allow you to hide all flaws when installing windows;
• plastic slopes do not need to be painted;
• reasonable price;

• high-quality thermal insulation of the window joint;
• Window finishing can be completed on the same day as window installation
• easy installation;
• such slopes are very easy to maintain;
• thanks to its material, you can choose the slope in the desired color palette;
• there is no need to perform any preliminary construction work before installing the slope;
• plastic does not allow moisture to pass through;
• frost resistant.

Window insulation

When dismantling an old window, the window opening may be significantly damaged. To prevent this from causing a violation of the thermal insulation in the room, you should very carefully work out all the gaps between the window and the wall.

Small cracks are barely noticeable, but can cause a lot of trouble for residents, introducing mold and drafts into the house.

That is why it is important to insulate the entire perimeter of the window. The insulation can be: polyurethane foam, mineral wool, isover, etc. The choice of insulation material is based on the size of the gap.

In some houses, the walls are built in multiple layers, which provides protection from the weather.

In this case, it will be enough to strengthen the window with mounting foam only from the outside. In other cases, window openings are insulated from the inside with thermal liners.

Only after proper insulation of the windows are PVC slopes installed. Once again, please note that it is correct and hermetically sealed. installed slopes– deposit warm apartment without drafts, mold and foggy windows!

Photo of plastic slopes on windows

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How to install slopes for plastic windows - 3 options for an amateur

The lion's share in window production is now occupied by plastic, so slopes for plastic windows are more than a relevant topic. There is an opinion that installing such slopes with your own hands is not difficult. This is partly true, but there are a lot of nuances, and then we will look at what types similar designs exist, what are their pros and cons, and most importantly, how to arrange a window yourself in 3 options.

What does the slope market offer?

Absolutely all slopes are divided into external, that is, those located on the street side, and internal, which are installed indoors. Their construction technology is the same, the only difference is that not every material can be used for external structures.

Plastic slope

This is the simplest and cheap look slopes. If for some reason you don’t want to spend a lot of time and effort on arrangement, then this option is perfect. If you have the tools and material, installing such a finish will take 3–4 hours. But I would not recommend arranging external slopes in this way.

What's good about plastic:

• Low cost, the material will cost literally pennies;
• Finish structure similar to the structure of the window, so there will be no gaps due to temperature changes;
• Quick and relatively simple installation;
• Absolute moisture resistance;
• PVC panels do not require additional finishing, they are simply mounted and that’s it.

But the disadvantages here are much more significant than the advantages:

• Even the highest quality PVC panel highly susceptible to mechanical damage. It won't be too difficult to break through the plastic;
• In case of damage, local repair is impossible; the panel will have to be replaced completely;
• The finish turns out to be hollow, so condensation will collect in the cavity under the panels and sooner or later fungus may appear;
• Modern panels supposedly do not burn, but in any case, when there is a fire, they emit asphyxiating gas;
• If you skimp on the quality of the panel, then within a year it will begin to turn yellow.

Sandwich panel

In fact, it is the same plastic, only with insulation. This panel is made like a sandwich, where a layer of polystyrene foam is laid between two PVC sheets. Thanks to this innovation, this coating is an order of magnitude better than conventional PVC panels.

Sandwich panels were originally conceived as insulation, so they can be installed both outside and inside, only for the street you need to buy special external panels.

The advantages of these panels are:

• Although the material is more expensive than regular plastic, the price is still reasonable;
• The strength of the sandwich panel is equal to the strength of drywall;
• The coefficient of thermal expansion here is the same as for windows;
• The installation technology is not much more complicated than that of conventional plastic;
• The panels do not need finishing.

In fact, there is only one minus here - if you spare money on high-quality panel, then over time the plastic will turn yellow.

Wood and MDF

Both of these materials are quite specific. As a rule, they are used only when arranging windows in a wooden house. The fact is that the finishing material must be in harmony either with the window itself or with the walls.

If you install wood or laminated MDF between a plastic window and block walls, then this finish will look like an alien inclusion.

Plus from brick or concrete walls the wood will become saturated with moisture, and the worst thing is that all three materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, which means there will definitely be gaps. Therefore, if you wooden house, then choose between wood and MDF.

Drywall

Almost half of all modern slopes are made of plasterboard. People here are attracted by speed, ease of installation and decent appearance. But drywall has both undeniable advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages include the following:

• The material is durable and quite lightweight;
• Installation of drywall is accessible even to a beginner;
• All materials are relatively inexpensive;
• You immediately get a perfectly flat surface;
• The surface can be repainted many times.

Opponents of drywall point out the following disadvantages:

• Installing the structure is only half the battle; then there is still finishing work to be done, and this will require some skill;
• If you do not install insulation, the perimeter will freeze. But, in my opinion, this minus is untenable, since no one is stopping you from insulating the slope; later I will tell you how.

Many craftsmen categorically prohibit installing drywall outside. So, if you take a waterproof gypsum board sheet and putty it with compounds for exterior use, then it will stand perfectly. I have had such external slopes on plastic for about 15 years.

Plaster as slopes

This is one of the oldest and most proven types of finishes. No matter how many new materials appear, plastering was, is and, most likely, will be their main competitor.

Advantages of plastering:

• Thus, any slope configuration can be created. Arched and other curved structures are still finished this way;
• Absolute environmental cleanliness;
• In terms of durability, there is no equal to plaster;
• Complete fire safety;
• You can repair a pothole or chip in 15–20 minutes;
• You can repaint as much as you like;
• The finish is sealed.

Disadvantages of plastering:

• All wet technologies are considered dirty, it will take a long time to clean up after such work;
• The process itself is quite long and labor-intensive, if you do everything as expected, then without skill you can carry it for at least 2 days;
• Plaster and plastic have different coefficients of expansion, so cracks between the frame and the finish are inevitable. Once every 1–2 years you will have to coat the joint with sealants;
• The plaster freezes quickly; it is impossible to insulate the perimeter of the window in this way.

Plastering the perimeter of a window from the outside is still considered one of the most reliable methods of arrangement.

Three ways to finish slopes yourself

I have chosen 3 finishing methods that are currently the most popular - insulated plastic slope or sandwich panels, plasterboard construction and good old plaster. And we will start with it.

Option No. 1. Plastering slopes

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Preparation. Before finishing, it is advisable to clean the surface from the old coating and prime it a couple of times.
	Beacons. IN brick house, however, as with any other, the angle around the perimeter of the window is rarely even, so we fill the outside with a planed wooden batten. It needs to be fastened with a slight overlap over the opening, up to 10 mm. A few centimeters from the window frame, metal beacons are mounted around the perimeter, everything is done according to the level. In external slopes, the plank is set on cement mortar. The inside is made of plaster.
	Throwing on the mixture. Often the thickness of the plaster layer is quite significant, so it is applied in several layers. Usually for these purposes a simple cement-sand mortar, but if you need a surface with unique strength, then you can buy a special mixture, for example, from the Ceresit line.
	Primary alignment. You need to add the solution until it is just above the beacons. After this, take a rule or something suitable, rest it on the beacon and the rod at the same time, and then level the surface with upward movements. You won't get a perfect plane right away. The voids that appear must be filled with mortar and leveled again.
	Reinforcing corner. When the solution has set a little, remove the outer wooden slats and place an aluminum reinforcing corner on plaster or putty for exterior work, as in the photo on the left. If the guide beacons near the window have an anti-corrosion coating, then you should not remove them.
	Starting putty. The next stage is similar to the previous one, only here we apply the starting putty using a rule or a wide spatula. the main objective hide the reinforcing corner. There are putties for exterior and interior use, so we choose according to the situation.
	Finishing layer. The finishing putty is applied with a wide spatula, 1–2 mm thick. The movements here are multidirectional. We hold the spatula under acute angle against the wall and press him without fanaticism.
	Grout. At the last stage, when everything is completely dry, you need to take the block, pull a special grout mesh over it and sand the surface to perfect condition. You can use emery, but it is not advisable, as it clogs very quickly.

Option number 2. We use drywall

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Preparation. It all starts with trimming the excess foam, after which we clean and prime the base.
	Method 1: Setting up a profile. There are 2 ways to join a gypsum board sheet to a frame: We mark and screw an L-shaped metal profile onto the edge of the frame with self-tapping screws; We cut a groove 10 mm deep in the foam around the frame and insert the sheet there. I always do it with a profile, since the gypsum board is clearly fixed with self-tapping screws on the frame, and then no small movements of the frame will lead to cracks.
	Method 2. End installation. If you prefer to place the gypsum board sheet over the edge of the frame, then when fixing the edge of the sheet inside, you must fill it with polyurethane foam. Firstly, it will serve good insulation, and secondly, when the foam expands, it will press the sheet against the frame. But it should be poured without fanaticism, otherwise the foam may squeeze out the sheet.
	Cutting out the gypsum board. When starting profile or the groove near the frame is equipped, you can start taking measurements and cutting blanks for slopes from a gypsum board sheet. The waterproof gypsum board sheet is cut in the same way as a regular sheet. You can apply an iron ruler and cut it off with a knife, or you can use a hacksaw or jigsaw.
	Preparing the glue. There is a special glue for drywall. It is sold in dry form, there are instructions on the package, you just need to add water and mix everything with a drill and a mixing attachment.
	Apply glue. The glue is applied with a spatula along the outer edge of the gypsum board sheet.
	Attaching a sheet. Now we press the workpiece coated with glue to the profile on the frame (or insert it into the end of the frame). Then internal cavity near the frame it is partially filled with mounting foam, and the workpiece is glued to the wall.
	Scheme. It should look something like the diagram on the left. I remind you once again, do not pour too much foam, otherwise it will squeeze out the sheet.
	Control. Immediately after gluing and in the first half hour (while the foam is expanding), do not forget to constantly monitor the horizontal in the upper plane and the vertical on the sides.
	Covering the perimeter.
	Reinforcing corner. If some craftsmen do not install a reinforcing corner in plaster slopes, then in plasterboard slopes this is a mandatory procedure. The installation technology is the same, however, here this corner can be attached to the gypsum board with a stapler instead of glue.
	Finishing. Finishing gypsum boards from finishing plaster slopes differs only in that it is not needed starting putty. The primer is immediately applied to the sheet and then the finishing compound is applied, after which the surface is sanded and painted. The fastening of gypsum boards on slopes that I described is not the only one; in the video in this article there is another interesting option.

Option No. 3. Plastic or sandwich panels

The plastic trim and sandwich panels differ slightly only in thickness, but the technology itself and the mounting profiles are identical.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	What profiles are needed?. For installation we will need a starting U-shaped profile, a corner profile and an F-shaped profile. The photo on the left shows the starting and corner profiles.
	F profile. This profile is mounted along the contour of the window opening.
	We attach the starting profiles. The starting profiles are screwed with self-tapping screws along the very edge of the window frame. The fixation step is 150–200 mm.
	Corner profile.
	Marking and preparing holes. We will install an F-shaped profile along the contour of the window opening. In order to install it, you must first attach the profile to the edge and mark how it will lie on the slope (red arrow in the photo on the left). Next, we put the profile aside, drill holes at intervals of 200 mm and immediately insert plastic dowels into them.
	Fixing the F profile. We first insert the F profile into the grooves of the corner profile, after which, pressing the profile against the wall according to the markings, we fix it with self-tapping screws.
	Inserting panels. Now all you have to do is paste into finished frame plastic or sandwich panels and here and there at the joints, cover small blemishes with sealant to match the finish. It is advisable to lightly fill the voids under the slopes near the window frame with foam.

Conclusion

Let me note once again that the most labor-intensive of the options presented above is considered to be plaster, and the lightest is plastic. Plasterboard finishing technologies are generally unique; they can be used to install slopes for plastic windows made of any material. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

October 9, 2017

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After replacing and installing double-glazed windows, window openings need finishing. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then perform Finishing work everyone can. This process has simple technology, so installing plastic slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels can be installed in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

To install slopes efficiently, you should thoroughly clean the surfaces of the opening and prepare everything necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and their length and width must correspond to the parameters of the opening. Plastic that is too thin will not last long, and it can easily be damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels, you will need:

You can start finishing no earlier than 36 hours after installing the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not be possible to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, film pieces are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film should not protrude beyond the window frame. After this, they begin to make slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed onto the outer edge of the window frame using short self-tapping screws. At the corners, when connecting horizontal bar with vertical ones, the profile is fixed so that it internal walls fit tightly to each other, without gaps or cracks.

Step 2. Attaching wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

Take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. Using driven dowels, the slats are attached along the perimeter with their flat side to the surface so that their edges do not extend beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side slats must be aligned horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not smooth enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting the slopes

The length and width of the opening walls, as well as the bevel angle on each side, are measured very accurately. Cut lines are marked on the panel and slope blanks are cut out using a jigsaw or a sharp knife.

By the way, you can read about plastering slopes with your own hands on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the top of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are filed at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not overlap the groove for attaching the slope. Secure the profile to the rail with stapler staples. The remaining sections are mounted in the same way.

The upper slope blank is placed in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with sealant. Holding the slope suspended, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with insulation. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is inserted into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to level the panel.

Next, install the side slopes, carefully distributing the thermal insulation material. If the external walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base of the slopes are filled with polyurethane foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, since excess foam can squeeze out the panels or bend them in an arc. It is advisable to use foam with low coefficient expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The areas where the panels meet each other and the window sill must be thoroughly degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean rag soaked in acetone, wipe away traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, and plaster the area of ​​the opening under the window sill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The process of installing them is slightly different from installing window slopes. Preparing the surface of the opening is done in the same way: hardened foam around door frame cut with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, and all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If you plan to attach the slopes to the surface itself, it should be leveled with cement-sand mortar. If used frame technology, it is enough to seal the cracks and deep recesses.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Frame installation

Measure the width of the opening walls from the door frame to the corner line. The slats are cut into pieces according to measurements. On the side walls, horizontal lines are marked with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. Using the markings, holes are drilled for dowels and the slats are secured. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the slats. 3 transverse bars are attached to the ceiling - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Cutting the panels

On the panel, mark cutting lines with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is measured especially carefully, because mismatched joints cannot always be repaired unnoticed. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to cover the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one for the ceiling. After this, the blanks are placed against the walls of the opening and the correct cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, mark the fold line on the back side of the workpiece with a pencil. Using a sharp knife, make a vertical slit in the cavity of the panel, leaving the front side intact. Apply the slope to the surface again, level it and screw it to the frame with small self-tapping screws.

When the main part of the slope is secured, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, step 2 cm away from it towards the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, aligning the screws to the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, you can use dense wooden plugs.

The second side slope is installed, after which the ceiling is sheathed with a panel. The upper edge of this workpiece should overlap the ends of the side projections; After installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The internal seams are coated with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, and if desired, the heads of the screws are covered to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on a door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

• to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
• plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
• after this, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
• until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
• glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

Finally, the vertical seams are sealed, and decorative trims are attached along the outer perimeter of the opening to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows