DIY wooden window frames. How to make a window out of wood yourself. What is needed to make shutters
Today, plastic windows have almost replaced wooden ones. Of course, the production of the latter has not stopped completely, it can even be stated that it is gradually expanding, and its renaissance can be expected in the very near future, however, wood windows have already moved into a higher price category.
Products that are in no way inferior to plastic ones, but are significantly superior to them in terms of environmental friendliness, and cost much more. For reasons of economy, many are interested in how to make window frame with your own hands and whether a self-made window can become a full-fledged replacement for a product manufactured using a production method.
Preparation for production
It should be said that a high-quality box and frame can be made, first of all, by someone who knows how to handle carpentry tools and approaches the work with due responsibility.
Most novice home craftsmen will not be able to make a window frame with their own hands so that it is not inferior to the factory one, but at first you can make a window for a summer house or workshop, in other words, hone your skills on “minor” objects. Often the windows there are small, single-leaf or blind. If you don’t give up and approach the matter decisively, it will turn out that everything is very simple.
The window consists of only 4 elements:
- wood;
- glass;
- fasteners;
- accessories.
The main difficulty is that to create it you need:
- selection of suitable material;
- precise marking and high-quality processing of workpieces;
- neat assembly of the window.
Figure 1. L-shaped box profile.
If the pros outweigh the cons, then you can start making your first window frame with a frame.
To work you will need:
- pine board 150 x 50 mm;
- pine bars 50 x 50 mm;
- wooden dowels;
- drill;
- wood saw or circular saw;
- mallet;
- plane or its electric equivalent;
- hand milling machine or chisel;
- window corners;
- self-tapping screws;
- square, tape measure, pencil;
- wood glue.
The first priority is to purchase sufficiently dried and smooth wood. Choose pine, as it is an inexpensive and easy-to-work material. Boards and bars need to be dried for another 10-12 days without any acceleration of the drying process, but under a canopy to hide them from rain and sun rays. If the material requires modification, process it with a plane.
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How to make a box
Figure 2. Profiles for a window with one glass and for a window with two glasses.
First, a window frame is made. Its height and width should be 4-5 cm less than the opening. This will facilitate its installation and subsequent thermal and waterproofing. When marking the boards, use a square. Make a hole in them with a milling cutter or electric planer for the frame, as the diagram shows (Fig. 1). Cut the boards to the required sizes.
The connection of the verticals and horizontals of the box is done in a “tenon and groove” (tenons are cut out on the crossbars). When making tenons and grooves, be careful, since the strength of the entire structure depends on your accuracy. When marking and cutting box parts, take into account the dimensions of the sample made on the blanks. The tenons and grooves are cut with a router, but not everyone has one, so you can use a hacksaw, a mallet and well-sharpened chisels.
Assemble the box on a workbench or other flat surface. Check the corners with a square. Measure 2 diagonals, if both lengths are the same, the box is assembled correctly. Secure the box with self-tapping screws and drill 4 holes for dowels.
Unscrew the screws, disassemble the workpieces, lubricate the tenons, grooves, dowels with glue and put the structure back together. Insert the dowels, check the squareness of the box again and finally tighten it with fasteners. You can strengthen the structure with window corners. Set it aside for now.
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Frame making
The window frame has a more complex profile. The following diagram shows how it looks in cross section (Fig. 2). A sample of 15 x 20 mm is made for the box. Samples 10 x 14 are intended for glass and glazing beads. The frame dimensions should be 1 mm smaller than the internal dimensions of the box on each side. This will compensate for the swelling of wood at high humidity.
If tongue-and-groove connections and the installation of dowels during the manufacture of the box were a desirable condition, since it can be rigidly fixed when installed in a window opening, then for the frame these structural elements are mandatory. The opening sash is subject to more intense loads, and its insufficient rigidity can lead to misalignment.
As can be seen from the diagram, the bars can be prepared for either double or single glazing. Make an appropriate selection on them and cut the bars according to the selected dimensions of the width and height of the frame. Prepare the tenons and grooves. Assemble the frame into one piece. Checking for correct assembly is carried out in the same way as when making a box. Make holes for the dowels, disassemble the frame and lubricate all contacting surfaces with glue. Assemble the frame, check the corners, hammer in the dowels with a mallet, tighten the frame with self-tapping screws.
It should be added that the fasteners should be screwed into pre-prepared holes of slightly smaller diameter than the cross-section of the screws.
The wood is impregnated with drying oil or other compounds.
The frame is inserted into the box. After this, it is checked how correctly the entire structure is assembled. Canopies are installed, surfaces are painted, glass is inserted and beading is filled. The box is mounted in an opening without a frame. It is hung after fixing the box.
The simplest method of making a window is described, but the task will not be complicated if, when making a box, in its lower crossbar on the outside you make a sample for installing the ebb (then moisture will not get into the space between it and the board), and on the inside - for the window sill boards (this will provide additional rigidity for attaching the window sill).
You can add that the frame profile can be assembled from strips of plywood different widths and thickness. They are glued together and tightened with self-tapping screws. This method will be useful for those who do not have the necessary tool for processing solid wood.
Plastic windows quickly and confidently replace their wooden relatives due to their excellent performance qualities. Making a plastic window yourself, and also a high-quality one, is not an easy task, but it is possible. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic window yourself. Let's take a three-chamber profile as a basis. PVC windows from other types of profiles are made according to the same principle.
Necessary equipment
To make windows you will need:
- table saw with variable cutting angle (for cutting profiles);
- tsulagi for cutting glazing beads;
- a roller table for a saw, if you do not want to take measurements with a tape measure;
- grinder or saw designed for cutting reinforcing profiles;
- single-head, or even better, double-head welding machine;
- manual pneumatic machine - needed for cleaning corners from the outside (“dovetail”);
- desktop copy-milling machine;
- desktop machine necessary for processing the ends of the impost;
- manual pneumatic angle cleaning machine for processing PVC profiles("crocodile");
- compressor;
- template for drilling holes in the frame for the impost;
- two templates for drilling holes for hinges (one for the frame and the other for the sash);
- templates for hanging frame and sash fittings;
- drills 3 mm, 5 mm, 10 mm;
- self-tapping screws: 10 mm (with a drill for reinforcement), 25 mm (for fastening fittings), 40 mm (for fastening hinges under the sash, 70 mm (for screwing the impost to the frame);
- chisel.
Stages of work
Profile cutting. For a square or rectangular window, cutting the profile should be done at a saw angle of 90˚. When cutting the profile, add a few millimeters for welding. On the profile, immediately label the horizontal and vertical lines with a marker, so that you don’t later get confused and solder the vertical to the vertical.
Reinforcement. Cut the reinforcement profile (iron) to 90 mm smaller size frame profile - 2 pieces each (2 verticals, 2 horizontals). U-shaped iron is suitable for the frame. Insert the iron into the frame profile, making sure that the iron is strictly in the middle. Screw the iron to the profile from the back of the frame using 10 mm self-tapping screws and a drill. The distance between screws should be ≤ 200 mm.
Drilling external drains to release condensate. The procedure for drilling holes is performed only on the lower horizontal of the frame using a copy-milling machine. The recommended length of drains is 27 mm, and the interval between them is from 550 to 700 mm.
Welding frame corners. Before starting work, carefully study the functions welding machine and set required parameters: welding and clamping pressure, welding temperature, welding and cooling time. After this, proceed to welding the frame corners.
Cleaning the frame. Using a manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine, carefully clean the frame welds on both the front and back sides, setting the desired angle for cleaning. Then use a hand pneumatic sander to sand the outside corners of the frame. Finally, use a chisel to clean the weld seams located in internal corners frames - in the pass under the sealing rubber.
Measure the location of the impost on the frame, then put on the template and drill through the plastic with a 10 mm drill so that the impost connector fits. Pierce the outer wall of the frame and the iron with a 5 mm drill.
Measuring and cutting out the impost. Measure the size of the impost along the frame (between the two glazing beads) and add a few millimeters. After sawing off the impost the right size, process its ends on the machine.
Impost reinforcement. Reinforcement (iron) goes into the impost rectangular shape. The cut-off part of the iron is attached to the bottom wall of the impost using self-tapping screws.
Impost insertion. Install the impost connectors into the frame holes and secure on both sides with 70 mm self-tapping screws. Next, using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit, remove the walls between the frame and the impost in the pass for the sealing rubber (to roll the rubber in a circle). Start and finish rolling the rubber from the top of the frame.
Internal drains in the frame. Using a 5 mm drill, make several drains at approximately an angle of 30-35˚ (three holes - one drain). The distance should not exceed 50 mm -70 mm between internal and external drains.
Measuring and filing the sash. The calculation of the sash dimensions depends on the sash opening in the frame. Take a measurement from one glazing bead to another and add 15 mm - 20 mm (taking into account the soldering of 6 mm). File the sash profile.
Sash reinforcement. Produced in the same way as on the frame profile, but with inside sash profile. It is unacceptable to screw a self-tapping screw into the middle of the sash profile.
Drains in the sash. Performed as in a frame using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit.
Holes for handle. Drill a 10 mm drill, exactly in the middle of the profile stick.
Welding and cleaning the sash. Do the same as on the frame, only completely clean the outer corners with a dovetail.
Rolling up the sealing rubber. Hang fittings on both sides of the sash and on the frame. Drill holes on the frame for the top and bottom hinges, and then drill holes on the sash for the bottom hinge. Secure the sash to the frame and close. Next, install the double-glazed windows and secure with glazing beads. The window is ready!
To install new window frames, many people are accustomed to doing the same thing as everyone else - calling craftsmen who dismantle old windows and install new ones, most often made of plastic or aluminum. True, their significant drawback is the fairly high price and the need to use special equipment.
That is why many people ask the question: “How to make a window frame their with your hands? And what you need to do?".
Materials and tools for making a window frame
So, when choosing required material choose boards with a section of 5 by 15 cm or timber 5 by 5 cm.
You will also need:
- wood glue;
- window angles (metal);
- glass.
You will also need a drawing and some carpentry tools:
- saw;
- hammer;
- chisels.
After purchasing and preparing, we can get to work.
How to make a wooden window frame from bars with your own hands
To make it, it will be enough to have 4 strips, which will need to be connected into a rectangle. It is important not to forget to set the angle to 90°. To obtain the required profile, the frame is assembled from several similar rectangles with different widths.
Also don't forget about precise measurements, otherwise the weight may turn out to be lopsided. In this extraordinary way it can even be made with a shaped profile.
The first association that arises when you mention Euro-windows is single-chamber or double-chamber PVC structures white. These are the windows that are installed in most apartments and private houses, replacing outdated frame structures. An alternative to plastic windows, which are inferior to wooden ones in terms of environmental friendliness, but superior in terms of performance characteristics, is Euro-windows made of wood. Their parameters are impressive, their appearance is up to par, and they are environmentally friendly. Unlike a plastic one, a wooden window frame with a proud “euro” prefix can be made independently. Making wooden windows with your own hands is a common thing for many FORUMHOUSE users.
- Eurowindow - what it is and how it’s done
- Wooden windows with your own hands
- Materials, tools, drawings, connection of elements
- Templates from the corner
- Chamfering, assembly, finishing
DIY Eurowindow
Eurowindow - what is it and how is it done?
Eurowindow is a structure consisting of a frame, double-glazed windows and perimeter fittings controlled by a handle.
Perimeter fittings are a prefabricated harness made up of several parts mounted along the entire perimeter of the profile. It provides locking of the sash at several points, using one handle, which allows you to achieve the tightest possible fit and eliminates blowing. Thanks to this fittings, a window with an opening sash can operate in two modes - tilt and turn. In the rotary mode, the window opens only by turning, in the combined mode - casement opens and reclines.
Fundamental design difference“Euro” from ordinary windows is one frame in which several double-glazed windows can stand. Home from technical characteristics“Euro” – complete tightness achieved through various seals. Thermal conductivity will depend on the number of air chambers, and on the type of glass in the double-glazed window, and on the correct installation of the window. Therefore, the material from which the profile is made does not play a significant role; the functionality of the structure and its characteristics are important.
DIY wooden windows
The process of manufacturing a wooden euro-window will require certain financial investments - the cost of wood, components, equipment. Window double glazed windows It’s also easier to order from professionals, although some craftsmen manage to assemble this unit themselves. But also considering the impressive cost finished product, which is an elite and therefore quite expensive product, the savings will be significant. When it comes to building new house or about full glazing of the old one, the difference can be tens of thousands.
Materials, tools, drawings, connection of elements
Windows are constantly exposed to external influences and temperature differences between indoors and outdoors, which inevitably leads to changes in the geometry of the structure when it comes to wood. To minimize possible warping, frames and sashes are not made from solid timber, but from glued. You can purchase a ready-made one if there are reliable suppliers, or you can glue it yourself. In the second case, a workpiece of at least three lamellas is assembled, so that the fibers are directed in opposite sides. If possible, choose radial sawn wood; tangential sawn wood “leads” more. For gluing, special, moisture-resistant compounds should be used.
The section of the beam is chosen based on the number of double-glazed windows - for a window with one chamber, a 6x4 cm beam is usually used. In production conditions, grooves are selected in the frame not only for the double-glazed window and external seals, but also for internal ones. One of the former manufacturers of wooden European windows shared his drawings, by simplifying which you can get high-quality structures that are almost as good as ready-made ones. In order to do this, the drawings are quite suitable.
Considering that professional equipment Not everyone has it, and its purchase will negate all savings and is justified only for the purpose of making windows for sale; home craftsmen choose grooves for double-glazed windows, external sealing and fittings.
For these purposes, use a router, a circular saw, hand tool for finishing. Members of our portal are equipped with all necessary equipment And Ravildon I decided to make a window together with my brother (nickname Halva senior) for his house.
Ravildon FORUMHOUSE Member
We had hand tools, machines and other devices. We welded a table, attached a hand router to it, bought a microtenon cutter and a movable carriage, and decided to dial the profile in length and thickness. A purchased profile costs from 1,600 rubles for six meters, so we will trim finished timber, glue it, then gain thickness.
Halvasenior FORUMHOUSE Member
Here's a pepelats they made: I had guides with carriages lying around, welded the frame, attached it to a movable table manual circular saw, the simplest impostnik turned out to be. The grooves are rectangular, so you can do without shaped cutters. The cutting depth is adjusted by a movable stop, the height by a set of plates and rectangular pipes. I cut the groove in five passes, changing the linings, and finished it with a file.
The brothers trained on waste, the results obtained were recorded in a journal in order to later choose the most good option. Once we got the hang of it, we started making the frames themselves.
Another of our forum members used ready-made laminated veneer lumber. The photos show this whole big process in detail.
cyan__ FORUMHOUSE Member
The purchased timber was passed through a thicknesser and a trimmer, on a circular saw with a homemade device (high rip fence with guides and 0.5 mm rulers) made tenons and a profile, glued them together, selected the fitting grooves with a router, hung the fittings - checked how they worked, removed them, sanded them for painting. There are no special tricks, but you either need to have experience in carpentry, or first make several throwaway frames - practice.
Since the double-glazed window is planned to be double-chambered, overall cross section The timber turned out to be 80x78 mm.
If equipment and experience allow, the frame elements are cut obliquely, at an angle of 45⁰; they can be joined without a bevel, which, although less decorative, is technically easier. The parts are assembled using a tongue-and-groove joint, with the vertical parts being lugs and the horizontal parts being tenons. Easier to manufacture single connection, but the double one is stronger and more durable, since the gluing area increases; the triple tenon is even stronger. When there is only one tenon, it is worth additionally strengthening the frame with a corner, since the double-glazed window significantly makes the structure heavier.
Member of our portal cyan__ tells how to make a wooden window using a three-tenon joint.
cyan__
I made three tenons for myself and put them on PU D4 glue, on another glue and one tenon under the double-glazed window, I would probably put a corner. As a test, you can glue one corner and test it for strength and deformation, loading it along the hypotenuse with a mass of one and a half glass units. Then it will become clear whether additional reinforcement is needed.
Templates from the corner
Halva senior assembled a box of two lamellas to make it easier to select quarters and grooves for seals circular saw. Dried timber required thickness, neither solid nor glued, were not on sale at that time, I had to make do with material with a smaller cross-section. But the timber we found was dry, already jointed on all sides. The frames were glued onto a smooth fugue due to the lack of a comb of suitable width. To be on the safe side, the structure was reinforced with self-tapping screws - diagonally, from the edge to the center (the fastener heads will later be hidden by a quarter). After the final blowing with pneumatics, the finished frames were given to the eldest son for finishing - for putty
Windows made industrially, no better than the so-called do-it-yourself windows - the photo confirms this.
The grooves for fittings in the sashes are selected based on its type and dimensions. To make your work easier, Halva senior I made metal templates, according to which I selected all the necessary grooves.
Halva senior
Before cutting the tenon and groove, I prepared the grooves for the locks - I made a template from a bent steel angle. The holes are 8 mm in diameter, the screw hole is 10 mm in diameter. First, mark the centers, then drill 8 holes - depth 26 mm. Set the emphasis and manual router combined the holes into a groove, dimensions: depth 28 mm, width 8 mm. I did without length limiters - the boundaries of the groove can be felt to the touch.
Chamfering, assembly, finishing
A cut or rounded corner is covered with a thicker layer paint and varnish materials, than sharp, therefore, more resistant to all external influences. Forum member Sukhov76, who made wooden windows for himself, advises his method.
Sukhov76 FORUMHOUSE Member
Instead of chamfering at 45⁰, it is better to round the corner by a radius of 3 mm - it looks more aesthetically pleasing and lies well under paint. Paints and varnishes are “afraid” of sharp edges, according to the law of surface tension, on sharp surfaces the paint layer is thinner, and according to the law of meanness, it is the edges that are the most vulnerable in operation, and the coating wears off faster, but on a radius the layer is even and is more difficult to damage.
The assembled window frames and sashes are sanded and treated with special impregnations, and then varnished or painted. In order for each subsequent layer to apply well and last a long time, all compositions used must be on the same base, water, etc. The glass in the frame is secured with glazing beads.
It’s not enough to make a window with your own hands - the video on our portal will teach you how to paint it correctly to protect the surface for many years!
For the second floor of your house cyan__ I also made wooden windows myself, using the technology already given. After the workpieces have been cut, grooves have been selected and tenon joints, the holes for the fittings and frames have been assembled, the final part remains - finishing and installing glass.
cyan__
Primed and painted the outer white side. Then, after sanding away any paint that had flowed across masking tape in a couple of places - internal, translucent. The stain is not paint; on the white side, if anything happens, it can be easily wiped off with a wet rag. I installed the glass on spacers and nailed glazing beads - a copper nail every ten centimeters looks good. I sealed it with neutral (this is important) silicone; acidic silicone can destroy the sealant of the bag. Turned it over onto a sheet of foam rubber and sealed it reverse side, installed the fittings, mounting plates and inserted it into the opening. The final stage I adjusted the sash and inserted seals into the grooves.
Conclusion
Making a wooden window with your own hands is an opportunity not so much to save money as to express yourself. For many years, a beautiful, environmentally friendly design will remind you not of the money spent, but of your own skill.
Everything related to technical parameters and features of Eurowindows, as well as step by step instructions, diagrams, installation details and product characteristics different manufacturers are discussed in the section. Details of the manufacture of the wooden windows mentioned in the article are laid out step by step in the topic “”. After studying the article about, you will learn how to obtain high-quality and durable timber for future frames. How to replace wooden windows with your own hands without dismantling the old frame - video about new technology answers this question.
Wooden windows are quite common in most residential buildings. This is explained, first of all, by the availability of materials used in the process of their manufacture. If the window opening has non-standard shape, then the easiest way is to build a window yourself, and the master will choose its shape, number of sashes and fittings. We’ll talk about the features of making wooden windows further.
Wooden windows - features and advantages
In order to understand the features of wooden windows, we suggest considering their main advantages:
1. Aesthetic appeal appearance.
The structure of the wood from which it is made is clearly visible on a wooden window. In addition, wooden windows fit perfectly into any type of exterior or interior. Most often, furniture made of wood and wooden doors, which harmonize well with windows made of wood. At the same time, wooden windows have high functionality and sophistication.
Windows made of plastic have an unpresentable appearance compared to wooden structures. Wood brings warmth and comfort to the room.
2. The ability to breathe.
Only wood has this function. It is the tree that is responsible for regulating a healthy indoor microclimate. Since wooden surfaces are capable of absorbing moisture when there is excess, and giving it away when there is not enough. The house, with installed wooden windows, has a comfortable and healthy atmosphere.
Windows made of plastic or other materials are prone to condensation forming on the windowsill or other nearby surfaces.
Due to the fact that wood breathes, there is a gradual circulation of air in the room. Even if you do not open the windows for ventilation for a long time, the air will be renewed through the micropores located in the wood. After a long absence from home, the air in the room will be fresh and renewed.
3. High durability.
Despite the fact that wood is a rather vulnerable material, especially to moisture or fire, thanks to the presence of modern compounds and impregnations, quality characteristics wood used in the window manufacturing process. Modern dyes and moisture-resistant impregnations provide long-term operation wooden window designs. In addition, in the process of using wooden windows, their original appearance is preserved. For example, plastic windows will require replacement after ten years of use; wooden windows do not lose their presentable appearance even after twenty years of use.
4. High level of strength.
The wood and its quality are assessed immediately during the purchase of materials. Strength plastic windows cannot be assessed because metallic profile installed inside the structure. In addition, the option self-made wooden window allows you to choose a tree of such quality that will suit the owner of the window both in material and in operational terms. It is better to give preference to three-layer laminated timber with a minimum thickness of 70 mm. It is the use of adhesive beams that will ensure the stability of the window against external irritants and prevent its deformation.
5. Low level of thermal conductivity.
This property is explained by the use of glue bars in the manufacture of windows. In addition, thermal conductivity depends on following the technological aspects of window installation.
6. Environmentally friendly and safe for human health.
This condition is the most important when choosing wooden windows. After all, it is the tree that is natural material, which does not emit any substances harmful to humans.
7. Ease of repairing wooden windows.
This advantage allows you to reduce the cost of repairing or restoring a wooden window. These types of windows are easy to maintain and repair.
Wooden windows photo:
Installing a high-quality wooden window opens up such opportunities for its owner as:
- complete absence of drafts;
- high level of thermal insulation;
- good sound insulation;
- highly attractive appearance;
- choice of individual design;
- duration of operation.
Wooden windows technologies and varieties
In relation to design features wooden windows are:
- Russians;
- German;
- Finnish;
- aluminum-wood.
The first option is characterized by the presence of one separate wooden part. It consists of one box and two doors, each of them glazed. For the manufacture of the wooden part, solid pine is used, not wooden beam. Minimum thickness the sashes are 4 cm. The main disadvantage of such windows is their susceptibility to deformation. In addition, it is not possible to achieve complete adhesion of the sash to the window. Moisture that is outside the room gets onto the surface of the window sill. Double wooden windows are equipped with non-adjustable hinges and handles, so there is no ventilation mode in them.
German windows are also called European windows. Since the fittings that are installed on them are of European origin. Such a window allows you to adjust the height and angle of the sash, it is possible to ventilate the window, and there are locking mechanisms.
A Eurowindow includes a window frame and a sash. The sash has a double-chamber double-glazed window, which perfectly prevents heat loss. To open the window, it only takes a little effort. In addition, the maintenance of such windows is quite easy, and for their production, laminated veneer lumber is used, the thickness of which allows you to make a multi-circuit seal that completely protects the room from drafts.
Such windows are characterized by warmth, reliability and durability. The service life of Euro-windows exceeds sixty years. This is due to the presence of glued three-layer timber, which is not prone to drying out or deformation.
There is an option to cover a wooden window with aluminum. This window is more long term operation and does not require constant painting.
Aluminum-wood windows involve the manufacture of the supporting part of the windows from aluminum. The tree is covered with aluminum from the outside. Thus, the strength of the structure is improved due to the presence of aluminum, and wooden surface creates an attractive appearance and warmth of the window. This type of window is practically not widespread due to the high cost of aluminum and the complexity of the work.
Finnish windows are distinguished by the presence of a wide frame and two sashes, which have a sequential opening type. One simple glass is installed on the outer sash, and a single-chamber double-glazed unit is installed on the inner sash. Both wood and aluminum are used to make the outer sash. The two doors are connected using a sequential opening mechanism. For the manufacture of window boxes and the sashes are made of solid wood, not laminated timber. The window has an attractive appearance, although compared to German windows, loses to it in quality characteristics.
In addition, wooden windows are:
- blind - they do not have sashes, the window does not have a ventilation function, the price of such windows is much lower, since they are quite simple to manufacture; before installing such a window, you should consider the features of ventilating the room and caring for the external part of the window structure;
- turning and tilt-and-turn - these types of windows have sashes that open into the interior of the room; they are quite popular due to their optimal cost and availability of ventilation;
- double-leaf mullion windows made of wood - with the help of an impost, several sashes are connected into a single integral window structure, this option is distinguished by reliability, ease of use and durability;
- bobbin double doors - the opening principle is the same as the previous version, only the first door has a rotary folding handle, and the second - without a handle, opening the second door is possible only if the first one is closed.
In addition, Swedish wooden windows stand out. They represent a combination of German Euro-windows with a Russian version of the window. This window has an outer frame with single glass and an inner frame with single glazing. This ensures a high level of sound and heat insulation.
Carved wooden windows are characterized by the presence of different rose patterns, which make them more attractive.
How to make a wooden window - main steps
Before you make a wooden window yourself, you should take care of preparing all the tools necessary for this in the form of:
- glass cutter;
- screwdriver;
- jigsaw or router;
- drills;
- hammer;
- chisels;
- square;
- roulette;
- rulers;
- planer
- glued laminated timber, pine or oak for the box;
- wood glue;
- glazing beads;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels;
- sealant.
We suggest you study step-by-step instructions self-production of wooden windows:
1. Construction of the box.
Depending on the size of wooden windows, they are:
- large;
- average;
- small.
Before starting work, you should select the material for the window. The most optimal and inexpensive option- pine. Since this type of wood contains a large amount of resin, it is the most resistant to moisture and other external influences.
More expensive, but quality option- oak. Although for beginners it is better to choose pine, so as not to accidentally spoil the expensive material. The boards must be properly dried and free of knots, cracks, and deformations. Please note that the box is the main one load-bearing structure, which bears the entire load.
It is possible to use an adhesive beam, which has higher strength characteristics and long service life.
To build a frame, there are enough boards, 15x5 cm in size. A groove hole should be made in the workpiece, which will have the letter G and a depth of 1.5 cm. All parts are connected using wood glue, and then a wooden rod with a minimum length of 30 mm . It is the rod that is the element that acts as a retainer for all components of the box.
Next, the box is installed in a pre-prepared window opening. This procedure includes drilling holes in the wall, installing dowels in them, and fixing the box with self-tapping screws. Used to seal joints and seal cracks. polyurethane foam.
2. Construction of a window frame.
How to make a wooden window with your own hands drawings:
To create a frame, you need a beam measuring 70x50 mm. Although it is possible to adjust the thickness of the beam, depending on the size and strength of the window. The profile shape is determined by the thickness and amount of glass that will be installed in the window.
If you plan to install a single glass profile, then it is enough to construct two rectangular groove holes, otherwise more holes will be required.
To make a profile of a certain shape, you will need an electric planer or milling cutter. If the glass thickness is 5 mm, then a glazing bead 1 cm thick will be required.
When all the parts are prepared, the frame is assembled. To do this, you need to cut the board at an angle of 45 degrees. Using the prepared profile, a tongue-and-groove connection is provided, for more high level screws are additionally used for fixation. Please note that all caps should be sunk into the wood to improve the attractive appearance of the window and to avoid corrosion.
3. Installation of glass.
To ensure that condensation does not accumulate in the window and there are no cold bridges, you should correctly measure the length and height of the glass that needs to be installed in it. The minimum error when taking measurements is 1 mm.
It is better to use a diamond screw to cut glass, and fine-grained sandpaper to polish the edges.
In addition, you should follow all safety measures, namely, wear gloves made of thick fabric so as not to injure your hands from fragments and wear a mask that will protect your eyes from dust or small fragments.
A ruler with a small margin is placed on the glass. A line is drawn along it using a glass cutter. Next, the glass is placed on the edge of the table and broken off. The prepared blank is installed in the window; if it does not need correction, then the edges of the glass are lubricated with sealants and laid again. Next, the glass is fixed using glazing beads, onto the surface of which small nails are driven. If the width of the glazing beads is large, then it is better to use self-tapping screws to fasten them.
4. When studying the question of how to make a wooden window with your own hands, you should mention final assembly the entire structure. If the window has big size and is divided into two parts, then first the vertical beam is assembled and installed, then the sash is fixed with hinged hinges. Handles and other fittings are installed.
Completes installation work installation finished window into the window frame, fixing it with self-tapping screws, which first pass through the surface of the frame and then through the wall. Polyurethane foam is used to seal all cracks, and after it dries, the walls are plastered. The installation of the ebb and window sill completes the work.
How to make a wooden window video:
