How to sand a wooden floor without a hitch. How to properly sand with a sander and by hand Sanding wooden surfaces
Natural wood floors have long been very popular. Modern technologies and new Decoration Materials are able to give such floors any colors and shades, but at the same time preserve the unique texture of the wood. But before you start covering the base with various compounds, the wooden floor is sanded. This procedure is required to obtain a high-quality surface.
It will also help in restoring old wooden coverings. After these measures, even the oldest floor will look no worse than new.
Why sand wood floors?
Whatever decorative or protective treatment was not applied to the floor surface, the coating will wear off where people regularly walk. Paintwork coatings wear off in entire areas and also crack. As a result, the floor becomes stained. But that's not all - after all, the tree is also not eternal. Dents and gaps form on the floorboard.
You can revive the old coating by sanding. This procedure also does not work for new, freshly laid boards - boards without sanding will not lie as necessary. The surface treated in this way will be perfectly smooth. After sanding, all that remains is to coat the surface with varnish or paint.
We select tools and equipment
After batten laid, a popular question often arises. How can you sand a wooden floor? Unfortunately, you cannot obtain a high-quality surface by hand. For these purposes, special wood cutting machines are used.
In the case of floors on joists with a board thickness of 30 mm or more, it is recommended to use systems drum type. They are quite heavy, so the floor must be as durable as possible.
If parquet is laid on the floor, then you should prepare a surface grinder. Its weight is light, so it will not damage the expensive coating. In some cases, if it is not possible to get a specialized tool, a regular grinder equipped with a flap wheel is used. The circle is quite rigid, so even serious defects can be easily dealt with.
In addition, in addition to the main machine, an additional one may be needed. In this case, the main one will be able to cover the main surface of the room, and the second, additional and smaller in size, will help to treat hard-to-reach areas.
Also, except grinding equipment You will need a scraper and sandpaper. Besides all this, as additional equipment You definitely need a vacuum cleaner - it will protect you from harmful dust.
Grinding Equipment
All cars have different principle work, but they do the same thing - they remove a thin layer of wood using abrasive materials. There are several types based on the principle of action:
- Drum type sander. It consists of a shaft on which abrasive tools are mounted;
- Belt devices - they have two shafts on which the sanding belt rotates;
- Surface grinders operate using special cylinders with abrasive pads;
- Vibration equipment operates on the principle of translational motion.
Each group of equipment has advantages and disadvantages, as well as operating features. In order to choose what can then be used to sand a wooden floor, you should know the characteristics of these units.
Drum type machines
A group of equipment is used for roughing or primary processing. Depending on the model, these devices can also perform scraping. Using these units, you can carry out rough sanding, remove old paintwork, and also level the surface.
The machine operates by rotating the drum through a belt drive from the engine. The belt is mounted on a shaft and, under the weight of the machine, is pressed very tightly to the floor.
Such models often have high power, large dimensions and serious weight. During their operation, thick layers of wood are removed, which is why most models have special dust collectors. Machines of this type are equipped with coarse-grained abrasives, so they are only suitable for roughing.
Tape equipment
These machines are used for preliminary floor scraping. Models have some advantages compared to drum ones. So, the dust collector here is more efficient. The working element is the same tape, but there are no joints in it, so the surface after processing will be more High Quality.
Surface grinders
Among the characteristics is an adjustable degree of impact. This group of tools is already intended for secondary floor processing. In most cases, these units can be divided into devices for large surfaces and manual units for hard-to-reach areas.
Good models are equipped with three disks that rotate on an internal axis. This allows you to increase efficiency and processing area. The only drawback is the impossibility of processing near walls.
Vibration devices
The main feature of the equipment is its compactness and versatility. The secondary layer is removed thanks to the movements of the sole. Many modern models have the ability to adjust vibrations. The equipment is well suited for regular wooden floors, but for parquet floors you should look for something else.
Preparing the groundwork for work
In order to get an excellent result after sanding a wooden floor, first prepare the base and the room. All furniture, as well as curtains and other decorative items and elements, are removed from the room. The room must be completely empty. Windows and outer door opens to allow dust to escape freely. If the room has interior door, it is better to seal the gaps with tape.
Each board on the floor must be carefully inspected for all kinds of defects, such as rot and cracks. Bad boards are removed and replaced with new ones. If the board is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, the caps are recessed into the wood by about 2 mm.
If there are gaps between the floorboards, then it is recommended to remove the entire covering and re-lay it. If there are few gaps, then you can get by with wood and glue. If you run your hand along the surface of the floor, nails and screws should not be felt. For comfort during work, the baseboards are also removed.
Grinding technology
Before you start sanding your wood floor, professionals recommend using a 40-grit sanding belt in your machine. This is a fairly rough processing, however, this is only the first, rough stage.
During the work, all old coatings and other irregularities are removed. Owners of new floors can skip this step. The entire surface of the floor in the room is covered with the machine 2 to 4 times, depending on the desired result. After working on one strip, the machine is installed on the second with the condition that half of the circle is on the processed part. This way the entire area of the room is sanded.
Next - fine sanding of the wooden floor and abrasive No. 60. With its help, all scratches are processed. Then they install No. 80 and again go over the entire area at least 2 times. The final stage is sandpaper No. 120 and finishing– as a result, the surface should almost shine.
During operation, the abrasive will wear out - it should be changed regularly. The car engine should be turned on or off only while moving, otherwise marks will remain on the surface, which will be extremely difficult to remove.
Working in hard-to-reach places
Every apartment has such places. Often, this is the floor surface under radiators, stairs, in corners and similar places. Here the process can also be mechanized. For this purpose, there are compact machines that have just such a specialization.
After the first pass of roughing, the same abrasive is used to process the hard to reach places. With compact modern equipment this will not be difficult.
This is where the process can end. There will be no visible or invisible defects left on the treated surface. The floor will be smooth and shiny.
Now all that remains is to carefully remove the sawdust, vacuum the room well and you can process the wood paint coatings. The first coat can be applied on the day of sanding.
It turns out that sanding a wooden floor with your own hands is not difficult. With modern equipment, the process will not take much time. Don’t be afraid of high prices for power tools – such units can always be rented.
Grinding technology allows you to get even from an old dilapidated floor beautiful texture wood with virtually no investment. New floors will look like real luxury flooring.
One of the most common methods of wood processing is sanding it using abrasives. Treated with sandpaper it becomes soft to the touch; there are several types of sandpaper, designated by numbers. The number determines the size of the abrasive particles applied with glue to the sandpaper. The paper with the smallest particles is called “nulevka”. The most “delicate” grades of sandpaper are rarely used for processing wood. This is explained by the fact that the tree is soft material and the pores of the sandpaper quickly become clogged with its particles. Small particles abrasives quickly sink into wood dust and stop working. Therefore, we recommend using at least No. 10 sandpaper for basic work.
Sanding wood with sandpaper takes a lot of work. It will be easier for you to work if you understand why and how to do it. Before the invention of mechanical tools for sanding wood in the mid-19th century. There was practically no need to sand the wood. In fact, sandpaper was born only after the advent of mechanical tools. The wood was processed exclusively by hand, and such processing gave a completely smooth surface.
It is mechanical woodworking tools, which make carpentry work so much easier, that make us spend so much labor sanding woodwork before finishing it. Mechanical tools, regardless of their sharpness and precision of adjustment, leave marks on the wood that are clearly visible under the finishing film. To remove these marks, you need to spend a lot of time and effort sanding the wood. , which you have to pay for using the machines.
The purpose of sanding wood is to remove defects as quickly and efficiently as possible, without leaving deep scratches on the wood if possible. In practice, this usually means you start sanding with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. However, there are times when it is better to use coarser paper or start sanding with 120 or 150 grit paper. To prepare wood for painting, writes Infobud, sandpaper with a grit of 100 units is suitable. Always sand wood along the grain, regardless of the grit of sandpaper you use. Sanding against the grain or at an angle can damage the wood so much that you will need to work hard to smooth out the imperfections.
Any power tools leave marks on the wood that should be removed with sandpaper. The waviness shown in the illustration is caused by a plane or jointer.
Whatever sandpaper you use to sand the wood, you will need to remove any scratches from the previous step in each step until you use 180-grit paper for the final step. There may be situations where you end up with 150 grit sandpaper, or you may decide to continue sanding the wood and end up with 220 grit paper. Until you have gained sufficient experience, use 180 grit paper for the last step of sanding wood.
In theory, it would be best to sand the wood sequentially with all grades of sandpaper up to 180-grit sandpaper, but most craftsmen “skip” grades. In other words, most craftsmen believe that fairly good results are obtained if wood is sanded in this order:
Use 80 grit paper first;
- then 120 units;
- finally, 180 grit, thus skipping sanding with 6 umaga grit 100 and 150 grit.
However, decisions of this kind are purely individual, since everyone, when sanding wood, presses the sandpaper differently and determines for themselves when it is worth changing the paper that has worn out during the work.
It's not easy to see what you've achieved through sanding. The secret is that the treated surface must be viewed from an oblique angle, while the light must fall on the treated surface perpendicularly. Then, in reflected light, you will be able to see defects or scratches from sandpaper that have not yet been sanded. If you are grinding flat surface manually, always use a block, on the working side of which a pad of soft cork, rubber or felt is placed between the sandpaper and the wood.
Otherwise, the sandpaper, under the pressure of your fingers, will first “bite” into the softer wood fibers that appear in the wood in the spring. As a result, the surface will become slightly grooved, which you may not notice until it begins to shine after varnishing. You can make your own cork block for sanding wood, which will be convenient for you to work with. Glue a 3-4 mm thick cork pad - you can buy it at an auto parts store - onto a block of soft wood, rounded at the top edges.
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Disk;
- tape;
- eccentric.
Disk machines are the cheapest and least efficient type wood sanding tool. When using such machines, it is almost impossible to damage the wood, but they sand very slowly.
Belt wood sanding machines are more expensive and very effective at removing a significant layer of wood. But draw frames are difficult to operate. It is very difficult to sand wood with a belt machine without making gouges. It is even more risky to use a belt machine to process plywood: most likely in some places upper layer the veneer will simply disappear.
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The three most common types of hand sanders are (from left to right): disc sander, belt sander, and random orbital sander.
Sandpaper
There are usually four types of sandpaper available commercially: two types are designed for initial sanding of wood, and two types are for sanding and final finishing wood.
All four types of sandpaper are designated by grit level, which ranges from 36 to 2000 grit. The grain size is determined by the number of cells in 1 square. inch of sieve through which the abrasive material is sifted. The smaller the cells, the larger number, indicating the grit and the smoother the sandpaper is. The best varieties Sandpaper for sanding wood is made from abrasives based on garnet and aluminum oxide.
Garnet sandpaper is usually orange color. The abrasive grains split under sharp corners, and garnet paper retains its functionality until it is completely worn out. Garnet sandpaper is the cheapest of all four types and is the most popular for hand work. Its grain size varies from 36 to 280 units.
Aluminum oxide sandpaper is usually tan. This abrasive is stronger than garnet, but when split it produces less sharp edges. Aluminum oxide sandpaper is more expensive than garnet sandpaper, but it lasts longer. Therefore, such paper is almost always used for sanding belts and discs, and is expensive. The grit size of aluminum oxide sandpaper varies from 36 to 280 grit.
The best sandpaper for finishing wood sanding is made with silicon carbide abrasives. There are two types of such sandpaper:
1. In black silicon carbide paper, the abrasive is glued to paper based waterproof glue. This paper can be used with or without water-based or oil-based lubricants. You should almost always use this type of sandpaper with some kind of lubricant. Otherwise, it will soon become clogged, making sanding a very expensive procedure. The maximum grain size is 2000 units.
2. Gray silicon carbide sandpaper contains a soap-like lubricant that makes final sanding easier without the use of additional lubricant. This lubricant is zinc stearate, the same substance that is added to most varnish primers. Maximum grain size 400 units.
Black silicon carbide sandpaper is best used with a water or oil lubricant to sand wood surfaces after several coats have been applied and you are confident that you will not wear through the finish. It is best to sand the first and second layers of wood coating with gray silicon carbide paper. Even if you rub the coating in several places, the damage will not be too significant.
Exposed glue Glue oozing out at joints wooden parts or left on the wood with dirty hands, covers the surface of the wood and prevents stain or varnish from penetrating inside. As a result, light, unsightly spots will remain on the product.When gluing edges, whether joining solid wood to solid wood or solid wood to plywood, the exposed adhesive serves good sign; this means that you have applied enough glue and pressed the parts together firmly enough. However, excess glue must be removed, and then the wood must be sanded with sandpaper in the places where it protruded. There are two ways to remove glue from wood: wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth, or let it harden to the point where you can pry off a strip of it with a putty knife or blunt chisel. In both cases, you will need to sand these areas to remove any remaining adhesive that has soaked into the wood. If the glue hardens before you can remove it, you will have to scrape it off. This can damage the wood. Therefore, it is best to remove the glue before it has time to harden.
It is more difficult to deal with glue that has come out at the corners of perpendicular joints of wood (for example, between vertical and horizontal frame elements), since these places are difficult to sand. It is not easy to sand perpendicular joints without affecting the cross grain on one of the parts. Therefore, it is best to avoid any adhesive overhangs at all. In other words, do not apply more glue than is necessary for a strong connection.
If the glue does squeeze out of joints where the wood grains run perpendicular to each other, and you notice this before the glue hardens, wash it off with water. You will then have to sand the wood to remove any wood fluff that has been raised by the water. This can be done in two ways that do not leave scratches across the fibers. Work the shorter piece first, lightly touching the cross piece. Then sand the cross piece to remove any scratches that may have appeared on it.
– cover the part with protective tape while you sand the connection part perpendicular to it. If the released glue dries before you discover it, there are two ways to remove it from the wood:
Either dissolve;
- or remove mechanically with sandpaper or scraping.
White and yellow glue can be dissolved with water. Hot water or water with added acid (such as vinegar) is more effective. Water, however, lifts the wood fibers, and the place where the stain was will absorb more water and will darken. To get rid of the discoloration, you will have to re-sand the area, removing the water-damaged layer of wood, after the wood has dried. You can also use toluene and xylene to remove hardened white and yellow glue. These organic solvents soften the adhesive to the point that it can be removed with a stiff rag or soft-bristled brush without lifting the wood fibers.
One problem that may arise is that the stain acts as a lubricant for the sandpaper, so sanding the wood becomes less effective. And when you reapply the stain to the treated area, it may turn out lighter. If this happens, stain the entire piece (beam, leg, etc.) and then, while the piece is still wet, sand it with the same grit (or one less) that you used on the other pieces. .
Wipe off excess stain with a rag. If you still can't get an even color, apply paint remover and remove as much pigment as you can (paint remover also removes white and yellow glue). There is no need to remove all pigmentation from the wood. Then sand the entire surface with the same sandpaper you used in the final step and re-stain it. The stain should now apply evenly, unless the cause of the spotting lies in the wood itself.
Working with a file
Speaking about manual wood processing, it is impossible not to talk about rasps and files. These ancient instruments remain relevant now, in the era of technological progress. Files are used primarily for metal working, but large files such as the rasp and hog file are designed exclusively for woodworking. When processing wood, file movements should be made in one direction, since material scuffing may occur when moving in both directions.
In particular, this applies to working with multi-layer materials, such as plywood or veneered products. Do not try to apply as much force as possible when working with the file. Make rhythmic and easy movements. Files designed for metal work get clogged and lost quite quickly. most its abrasive properties. In order to prevent this, we recommend that you periodically clean the working surface of the file with a wire brush while working on wood (Fig. 4).
This will make your work easier and faster. To facilitate the rather monotonous and difficult work of sanding wood products, there are several electromechanical devices.
Angle grinder (angle grinder)
A wide selection of power tools on the Russian market is designed to make it easier different types self made. If in professional field purchase specialized equipment is simply necessary, then in everyday life it is not always rational to spend money on an expensive tool, which after completing a certain job may not be useful at all. The most popular power tool is the angle grinder (angle grinder). The scope of its application is not limited to metal processing - grinding wood with a grinder is done using special attachments.
For those who don’t know “Is it possible to process wood with an angle grinder?” this article will be useful. To perform grinding and polishing of wooden products or large solid surfaces, you will need to purchase the appropriate attachment - a circle. For Bulgarians different sizes nozzles are selected that are designed for a certain rotation speed. Special discs designed for wood processing must be carefully selected. The disk must match the dimensions of the tool; a special nut is used to secure it.
When working with angle grinders, it is necessary to strictly observe safety precautions and use only factory-made wheels that are suitable for a specific model of power tool.
Processing wood with an angle grinder
Coarse grinding discs for wood for angle grinders
There are several types of circles that differ in shape, material of manufacture and purpose. Usually, wooden blank must first pass rough processing surface, after which it is subjected to finishing or final detailing of the coating with abrasive segments.
For such work, there is a special attachment on the grinder for sanding wood. The most popular are:
- Grinding circles. This grinding attachment on an angle grinder is best used to remove a layer of old paint. Suitable for varnished coating which cannot be removed manually. This could be a wooden floor painted several times or a window sill. The design of abrasive discs consists of a disc and metal bristles made of elastic wire. Nozzles are available with different locations steel bristles. Depending on the desired effect, the bristles can be placed along the entire perimeter of the disc parallel to the tool or perpendicular to the segment - as in a regular brush.
- Cord brushes are a disc with a large abrasive coating, designed for rough sanding and removing irregularities on a wooden surface. By using of this instrument wood blank acquires final form. The work productivity is significantly higher compared to conventional hand tools.
- End discs. Nozzles are used when you need to level a product from the end. Miter cuts and edges of the workpiece require such processing. The technique is identical to a file, but the efficiency of the abrasive exceeds that of hand tools. When working with a segment, it is important to have skills, and then such a simple tool can completely replace a molding cutter in terms of edge processing.
Using a grinder for polishing wood, you can completely restore furniture covered with varnish and paint. After such cleaning the thickness wooden base practically does not decrease, but newly painted furniture will look beautiful and impressive.
By doing grinding work With an angle grinder, the choice of tool is not so significant compared to the presence of well-dried wood and the absence of cracks on the surface.
Grinding wheels for gentle processing and their areas of application
Nozzles are used to sand wood with a grinder. universal design and with a special gentle coating. Such mechanical restoration intended for specific work:
- The flap disc is used for grinding solid wood. The design of this segment corresponds to its name. Its work surface is equipped big amount trapezoidal sandpaper petals that overlap each other like fish scales (three-quarter overlap of the previous row). With this arrangement of the petals, abrasion of the nozzle occurs much more slowly.
This is the most common type of grinder attachment for sanding wood, which performs soft surface treatment, and the tool itself is less traumatic. To achieve the required degree of processing and high quality, the disc is selected according to its grain size. The size of the abrasive determines how quickly and efficiently the unevenness on the wooden surface will be removed.
The sanded coating at different stages of processing may remain slightly rough or be perfectly smooth without the slightest flaws or snags. The final result can be achieved by sequentially moving from abrasive discs with a coarse-grained fraction to segments for finer processing. Therefore, you will need several discs for a grinder for sanding wood, which will be changed in stages.
To use the petal attachment, certain skills are required, which means that training before performing important work will be simply necessary.
- Wheels for soft grinding. Universal nozzle The grinder for sanding wood appeared on the market relatively recently and is distinguished by its special design and high functionality. Rough work is carried out by replaceable discs with the desired grain size, which are attached to the sticky base of the attachment. In this regard, the abrasive tool received the corresponding name - a sticky disc.
The main advantage of a grinder wheel for grinding wood is the quick replacement of a worn-out replacement disk: the entire procedure takes place without removing the main attachment, which is secured with a nut. First, you need to purchase a sticky attachment for grinding on an angle grinder, so that later you can replace the worn-out abrasive segment without any difficulties.
How to choose grinding attachments for an angle machine
Circles should be selected according to the main parameters:
- outer diameter (larger sizes speed up the processing process and increase service life);
- landing diameter (installation of a larger circle on a smaller one is possible using a special adapter);
- thickness (the greater the thickness, the longer the segment will last);
- grain size (the fraction must correspond to the type of processing: coarse abrasive for rough work, and fine - for soft processing and creating a finishing coating);
- segment type (suitable special nozzles for processing wooden surfaces).
Reference! The shaft diameter in modern angle grinders for wood is 22.2 mm.
What you need to know when working with an angle grinder
Update flooring(parquet), furniture or facade of the house where there are wooden structures or individual elements, is performed using a grinder for grinding, which is equipped with different attachments. Therefore, it is not surprising that an angle grinder for polishing wood is a popular power tool among professionals and at home. But in order to choose the right tool for the job, you need to carefully examine the wooden surface for the presence of fungus, cracks and irregularities. A video is provided to help beginners who want to know “How to properly sand wood with a grinder.”
For each angle grinder model, it is mandatory to select sanding attachment, only in this case will the safe performance of work and high-quality surface treatment be guaranteed. Before you start working with a grinder (sanding wood), you need to make sure that the disc is properly secured. Move corner machine on the surface you need to move smoothly and avoid vibration of the tool.
When working with an angle grinder for grinding wood, it is unacceptable to use discs of small thickness (high rotation speed and load lead to the wheel breaking, which can lead to injury).
Cost of wheels for woodworking
The price of a tool for polishing a wooden surface is not high, but it depends on the material, diameter and thickness. The table shows the average cost of an abrasive tool in major cities Russia:
| Name of cities | Price of wood attachments, rubles per unit | ||||
| Abrasive discs for soft sanding | Roughing (cleaning) wheels | End | Cord brushes | ||
| Moscow | from 70 to 900 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Saint Petersburg | from 95 to 800 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Chelyabinsk | from 262 to 820 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Novosibirsk | from 100 to 760 | from 35 to 9000 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Kaliningrad | from 57 to 660 | from 35 to 9000 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
Manual work requires the use of high-quality tools, and an angle grinder with attachments greatly facilitates the work and speeds up the process of processing a wooden surface.
When making wood products, the question often arises: “How to polish wood?” using polish to give protective coating. Most often, polishing is used for finishing furniture and handicrafts. The polished surface allows you to preserve the texture of the wood and gives the product a beautiful appearance.
Application of polishing for finishing
For finishing, several methods are used, for which substances are used:
- varnish;
- drying oil;
- wax paste.
When finishing wood products, when varnish is used for polishing, a protective layer, which gives the surface marketable condition. The polishing process involves applying a special polish composition containing three times less resin than varnish. The coating formed on wood has a transparent structure and a glossy tint.
When choosing a finishing and polishing method, the type of wood must be taken into account. The most suitable types of wood for making furniture are:
- mahogany;
- birch;
- pears;
- boxwood;
- maple;
- apple trees
Also widely used, but quite labor-intensive in processing the rock:
- oak;
- pine trees.
Products used for polishing wood
For polishing wood, commercial establishments offer a large list of various finishing substances:
- Shellac varnish – used for finishing furniture.
- Alkyd varnish – used to cover parquet.
- Acrylic varnish – used for processing wood products.
- Polyurethane varnish - used to protect wooden products from precipitation.
- Nitrovarnish - used for processing wooden products.
You can make a polish for polishing wood at home using certain substances:
- shellac resin - 60 g;
- ethyl alcohol 90* - 500 ml.
The manufacturing process is quite simple. Resin is poured into a glass container and filled with alcohol, mixed well, closed with a tight lid and infused until the resin is completely dissolved. Next, the composition is filtered and used for its intended purpose for polishing wooden products.
Polishing technology
The wood polishing process is carried out in several stages:
- surface grinding;
- applying primer;
- polishing;
- polishing.
Surface grinding
The sanding process is not particularly difficult, but it takes a lot of time to give the wood required type. The wood surface intended for finishing should not have burrs, chips, cracks or other irregularities. To do this, the tree is processed in 3 stages:
- sandpaper No. 46-60;
- sandpaper No. 80-100;
- sandpaper No. 140-170,
until the surface becomes smooth and glossy.
Grinding is done wooden block, wrapped with sandpaper along the grain of the wood. After sanding, the surface is wiped with a dry, clean rag, moistened with water and wiped with a dry rag again. A pause is maintained until complete drying for 2 hours and processed with sandpaper No. 120-140 until the remaining wood fibers are completely removed. If necessary, the operation is repeated several times until the tree is given glossy finish.
Application of primer
The priming process is carried out using a special swab by applying varnish to the wooden surface. The tampon must be made of linen fabric (does not leave fabric lint).
All work processes are performed in the following sequence:
- the swab is impregnated with varnish and with its help the entire surface of the wood is treated until a uniform coating is formed;
- a pause is maintained until the varnish is completely dry, sanded with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a clean dry rag;
- apply an additional 2 layers of varnish;
- a composition is prepared consisting of 1 part polish and 1 part varnish, which covers the entire surface;
- The wood is dried for 2 days.
Polishing
The polishing process consists of applying polish to wood and is performed in the following sequence:
- A small amount of vegetable oil is applied to the linen swab for better glide over the surface being treated;
- Using a swab moistened with polish, carefully wipe the entire surface;
- the processing operation is carried out 3 times with pauses after applying each layer until the polish dries completely;
- the wood is treated with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a dry rag (after each time the polish is applied).
Polishing
In order to polish the wood to an ideal state, working operations are performed several times until the desired result is achieved.
The following work is carried out:
- the wood is treated with fine-grained sandpaper dipped in vegetable oil;
- A small amount of vegetable oil and polish is applied to the swab and the entire surface is treated (the operation is repeated several times).
When carrying out polishing operations, when varnish or polish is used, it is necessary to comply with all technological process to create a durable, smooth, glossy wood finish. If you have certain skills and appropriate substances, you can finish wooden products at home.
When working with wood, in addition to simple sawing and trimming operations, there are quite complex procedures finishing. These include grinding.
Before grinding, planing is carried out whenever possible. At this stage of processing, burrs are removed and the surface becomes smooth. When planing using a thicknesser (a machine that allows you to obtain workpieces of the same thickness and width), a semi-finished product of the specified parameters is obtained.
High-quality finishing is performed on hardwoods, which are used to make high-quality products. Birch, oak, ash, maple, walnut, apple, cherry and others have a dense structure. Such material can even be difficult to cut with a regular hacksaw. But in furniture production They are used to make a wide variety of furniture and interior items.
Even traditional pine, spruce and aspen also require a quality finish by sanding. For example, by leveling floor boards using manual or electric tools, they achieve a single plane. Difficult and low-productivity work, but without it it is impossible to achieve good quality.
What is grinding done?
In cutting theory, when determining a tool to perform the process itself, a cutter is considered. He has cutting edges. They introduce the processed material into the body. The sharpening angles determine the features of the cutter's penetration into the material, as well as the formation of chips.
When it comes to the grinding method of processing, here we observe the work of not one cutter, but several at once. Their number is often measured in the thousands. The more small cutters involved in the work at the same time, the higher the quality of the machined surface. The abrasive grains act as cutters - these are grains of sand with a fairly high hardness, glued to paper or fabric.
To classify grinding tools, the concept of the number of grains was introduced 1 square centimeter. For example, the designation P36 implies that on average there are 36 grains per square cm. If the abrasive is designated P200, then, accordingly, there are on average 200 grains per square cm.
When you need roughing of a part and you need to remove quite thick layer, use abrasive materials with a small number of grains. As the quality of the processed surface improves, the size of the grains themselves decreases and their number increases.
Attention! When using abrasives with a high grain count, rapid clogging occurs. To increase the duration of use, it is recommended to regularly shake off the sandpaper. Then it will have to be replaced less frequently. Before you start finishing works carry out an audit of the abrasive material. Assess the amount of sandpaper available.
Coarse grinding is also performed using hard brushes. They are made from spring wire. Using a similar tool, brushing (artificial aging of wood) is performed.
To sand logs, plastic bristles are used instead of wire. It is made from rigid fishing line with a diameter of 3.0...4.5 mm. To increase productivity, such brushes are made on disks.
Hand blocks for sanding wood
When processing any board, you can rub sandpaper over the surface. There will be some result. Only your hand will get tired quite quickly, and the abrasive will heat up and become uncomfortable to hold.
For fixation, many people use a regular block. They wrap it around a piece of sandpaper. This is enough to do the simplest work. However, real masters make more convenient devices(Fig. 1).
The grinding block is made in the following sequence.
Rice. 1 Wedge-mounted sanding block
A simpler block can be made using two self-tapping screws and two paper clothespins (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2 Sanding block with self-tapping screws and clothespins
Rice. 3 Sanding block for machining large radius concave surfaces When working with wood, sometimes you have to process more than just planes. Often, to give an original shape, curved grooves are sawn or complex shape. In order to grind the surface in this case, the pads are made with a curved working surface (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).
Rice. 4 Sanding block for machining concave surfaces of small radius If there is a need to obtain a strict angle, then use a corner block (Fig. 5). There is only one work surface on it. The other surface is used to maintain the exact angle. More often they are made for processing at right angles (90°), but something similar can be made grinding device at any desired angle. 
Rice. 5 Angle sanding block
Mechanized wood sanding
Handmade is appreciated. But when using the simplest means of mechanization, wood processing occurs faster. Most common for grinding different materials received elastic supports for an electric drill (Fig. 6) and an angle grinder (Fig. 7) with Velcro. Somewhat later, manufacturers of supports began to sell a similar universal support (Fig. 8).
Rice. 7 Elastic support with Velcro for an angle grinder (grinder)
Important! When using such a support on an angle grinder, you should not press it too hard against the surface being treated. The speed of the working body is high, wood burning is possible
Rice. 8 Universal elastic support with Velcro for electric drill or angle grinder When working with such mechanization equipment, safety rules must be strictly observed.
- A lot of wood dust is generated, so a respirator and glasses will protect your vision and breathing.
- Gloves with a rubber working surface will protect the worker’s hands.
- It is advisable to wear an apron, then it is easier to shake out the dust from your clothes.
Special ones are available for working with elastic supports. grinding wheels(Fig. 9). They are installed and removed in one motion.
Rice. 9 Replaceable abrasive wheels for power tools Vibratory grinders
For processing large areas It is convenient to use vibration on a wooden surface grinder(Fig. 10). It has a vibrator that causes the sole to make small back-and-forth movements relative to the body. A strip of abrasive sandpaper is attached to the sole. She grinds the surface under the sole of the tool.
Rice. 10 Vibratory sander The performance of such small electric machines quite high. In an hour of work you can finish several square meters surfaces. The only drawback is that they need to be stopped after 5...7 minutes of operation. The vibrator needs to be cooled. It has no fans.
You can attach sandpaper of different roughness to the sole. Manufacturers recommend using a fabric-based abrasive. Then it lasts longer.
Surface belt sanders
The most productive are surface grinders Draw machines. They use abrasive sandpaper glued into a tape (Fig. 11). All such tools are equipped with a small bag for collecting wood dust. During operation, more than 80% of the dust generated accumulates inside this bag.
Rice. 11 Belt sander
Manufacturers recommend intermittent operation: grind for 5...7 minutes, and then give the tool a break. Even the presence of a fan inside does not effectively cool the device. After a three-minute break, you can continue working.
Manufacturers supply the tool with auxiliary devices with which you can fix the grinding machine in space (Fig. 12).
Rice. 12 Installing the belt sander on the table Craftsmen make special stands for belt sanders, with the help of which the scope of application of the devices is significantly expanded (Fig. 13). With the help of such options, it becomes possible to polish the ends of products with high quality. The underframe itself can be fixed at any angle, which will allow for high-quality processing.
Rice. 13 Stand for belt sander The industry produces stationary belt sanders (Fig. 14). They are called grinders. With the help of such devices, it becomes possible to grind products by resting them on a special support table. A grinder is similar in many ways to a belt sander. In fact, this is a stationary machine where you can carry out satisfied complex operations for wood finishing.
Rice. 14 Grinder Flap grinding tools
One more big class there are special petal ones. They are manufactured in radial (Fig. 15) and end (Fig. 16) versions. They are quite convenient to use. The surface of the wood is easily and quickly processed with such a tool.
These abrasive drums and discs are installed on drills and grinders. Craftsmen adapt them to specialized woodworking machines.
Video: High-quality sanding of wood
