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Protection of the ends of the log house. protection of the log house and logs from cracking. Treating the log house with protective agents How to treat the ends of the log house after assembly

All photos from the article

During operation, any wooden house must withstand the effects of a number of climatic factors, but subject to its reliable protection. Impregnation of log house walls with antiseptic - great way ensure it, protecting it from rotting, and the wood will become unattractive to pests.

Do logs need additional protection?

When choosing a log for a log house, you need to think about its durability in advance.

The fact is that different ways treatments greatly affect the wood's resistance to rotting:

• rounded logs, compared to other types of round timber, are especially susceptible to moisture; their natural protection is practically nullified during processing. The fact is that during calibration, not only the bark is removed from the trunk, but also thick layer dense wood;

Note! Sometimes, during processing, the core of the trunk even comes out on the side surface. In this case, the log has practically no natural protection, so impregnation is simply necessary, and as deep as possible.

• but they only lose the bark, protective layer very hard wood remains. Impregnation is also needed here, but the durability of a log house made of such material will be higher. The only thing that may confuse you is the high price of debarked round timber compared to round timber;

• occupy an intermediate position between debarked and rounded.

Impregnating wood with antiseptics not only provides protection from rot and insects, but also reveals the texture of the wood. So you can apply a layer of clear varnish on top, and the wooden surface will already look good.

You can come across recommendations not to use impregnation at all for a log house, they say the round timber will be preserved perfectly as it is. But it’s better to treat the wood at least to preserve it appearance, and the protection will be more reliable.

How to treat logs

Selection of special compounds for processing wooden surfaces very wide. For the most part, all popular antiseptics give good protection from moisture and insects, the only thing is not to confuse the means for external processing and internal processing. Indoors, compounds are usually used that do not release substances harmful to humans.

Internal processing of log houses

Log processing with inside is also necessary, although operating conditions will be more gentle than outside, but the humidity level can vary over a wide range, and you should not forget about insects.

As for the types of products used, the following types of solutions can be distinguished:

• easy to wash out- as an example can be given saline solution. It's too much a budget option, it can only be recommended for processing auxiliary buildings and then as a temporary measure;

• penetrating - treating rounded logs with this composition guarantees the penetration of the antiseptic to a decent depth (depending on the type of wood, but in most cases it will reach a depth of 5-7 mm). They do not wash out over time, and also allow the wood to breathe;
• film-forming– are used rather to decorate the surface of the wood; the liquid does not penetrate deep into the wood. Such compositions are applied after impregnation with an antiseptic to give the desired shade to the wood.

To treat wooden surfaces inside the house, you can use, for example, SenezhAquadecor. It does not stain the surface of the wood, is absorbed deeply enough and does not create an impenetrable layer on the surface after drying, so the logs are not in danger of rotting from the inside.

Processing of a log house after installation from logs includes impregnation of rafter frames, as well as elements wooden floors. Since they will not be visible, it is advisable to use compositions with coloring properties. This is done so that the treated and untreated areas can be clearly distinguished.

Antiseptics can stain wood green tint, but the shade of the surface treated with fire retardant is reddish. Of course, such compositions are not suitable for treating floors or ceilings.

Being new to use wooden buildings, I didn’t know what kind of treatment is necessary for a log house. Everyone knows that, being natural and environmentally friendly, the material is susceptible to negative influences atmosphere and different bugs. Therefore, I had an understanding that a log house should be processed, however, I did not know at all how and with what to carry out the processes. A huge amount of information and a builder I knew, an expert in caring for log buildings, came to my aid. Let's look at how to treat the ends of the logs after the construction of the house is completed and in what time frame all measures should be carried out.

We process the ends of log logs with our own hands

What tree care should be carried out

Processing the end logs of a log house yourself

There are very divergent opinions among users of many forums. Some people think that the processing of a log structure should be carried out in the shortest possible time. And someone proves that the house does not need immediate treatment. For an answer, I turned to Valera, who has been involved in construction for several years now. wooden houses. And as it turned out, when building houses from solid logs, complete processing for the first couple of years is not required at all. Due to the fact that the log house is not sawn, it has natural protection against fungus and rot. In this case, you just need to properly process the ends of the frame.

Important! If negative manifestations appear in a new home, this means that before installation work the log house was not completely dried.

Protection of the ends from the outside should be carried out upon completion of the construction of the house, since they are the most vulnerable. Since the tree completely dries out over several years, the ends tend to dry out much faster. If the surface is not treated, the ends will begin to darken, losing the natural color of the log house, and fungus will soon appear on them.

Materials for processing

We process the ends of log logs ourselves

Before purchasing the material with which the log house will be protected, you should know that it should not be an obstacle to air exchange and uniform drying of the wood.

When doing the processing yourself, you can use in the classic way, which involves the use of lime. It is still used in many villages today. However, modern construction market is full of possible mixtures, which, thanks to their components, provide good protection for a log house.

Let's look at the most common means for processing ends using a small table as an example:

Important! When choosing a material, you should pay attention to Russian manufacturers, since their products are in no way inferior in quality to modern imported brands. A huge advantage is the good price, which is significantly lower than the cost of foreign mixtures.

Do-it-yourself processing process

How to treat the ends of logs

Trimming a log frame is the very first process that is performed after the construction of a building. Thanks to this, all logs become smooth and neat. Trimming is done using a chainsaw. If you carry out trimming yourself, then be extremely focused on the important process and be careful in your work. All processes must be performed in a specific order:

• Sanding a log house with your own hands involves cleaning, which is necessary to remove all irregularities. During this process, possible manifestations of mold and mildew on the material are also removed. A belt sander will help with this process.
• Surface sanding must be carried out correctly and only under warm and dry weather conditions. At the same time, the log house itself must be dried - if it remains wet, the hairiness of the material will not allow you to carry out the planned process
• Impregnation is the term used to protect the logs outside the house from premature drying, fungal growth and cracks. You can use a wide brush as a tool, and apply the solution itself quite generously. The protection is applied in two layers, the second is applied after the first has dried.
• Next, sealants are applied to create a durable, moisture-resistant coating. If painting is necessary, a special acrylic sealant is purchased.

When choosing a mixture with which to protect the ends of logs, preference should be given to environmentally friendly compounds. Do not forget that wood tends to absorb water well, so the solution will be applied in several layers. As you can see, processing the ends of the logs is a mandatory activity that should take place as soon as possible after assembling the structure.

Sheathing of logs

How and with what to process the ends of log logs

Very often, owners of old wooden buildings decide to sheathe the façade using inexpensive and modern materials. The fact is that the material, being natural, is subject to the negative influences of precipitation, ultraviolet radiation, fungal manifestations and invasion of beetles and rodents. Houses lose not only their original appearance, but also the properties they had in the first years of operation. Despite the huge number of various mixtures and impregnations, the current option is to sheathe the facade wooden house siding.

In order to decorate the outside of the building, you can use the following types of siding:

1. Polymeric
2. Metal
3. Fiber cement
4. Wooden panels

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, so let's make short review each of them:

• Polymer – cheap option façade design. There are quite a few imitations of wood or brick. Their disadvantages: the material does not have thermal insulation properties and, despite manufacturers’ assurances of non-flammability, it tends to melt
• Metal - you can use it to sheathe it yourself large area. However, when arranging it, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation. During rain or hail, a characteristic impact sound will be created, so without proper sound insulation you will have to hear these sounds. Due to the metal’s susceptibility to corrosion, you will have to think about using solutions for treating fasteners
• Fiber cement – ​​advantages: good properties thermal insulation and sound insulation, does not deform and is not subject to rotting. Of the minuses: waterproofing is necessary, in addition, the panels are quite heavy and working with them will not be very easy
• If you decide to sheathe your home from timber wood siding, then you must be prepared for the fact that this material will require the use of various impregnations. They will protect the panels from rotting, fire and moisture. Despite this, the material is easy to install with your own hands, it is environmentally friendly and looks very good

Treatment of timber with impregnations to prevent cracking of timber and the formation of cracks on walls made of timber is possible both when assembling a house and bathhouse, and when finishing a house or bathhouse made of timber. When making a choice among the many finishing moisture-proof decorative impregnations based on oil, wax, varnishes and paints, try to CONSIDER their protection functionality not only as decorative paint or varnish, but also their practical possibility protecting timber walls from cracking, protecting timber from drying out and cracking.
It is necessary to treat timber against cracks with impregnations that work according to a special algorithm adapted to these phenomena and which can do this effectively, combining not only their main purpose as a finishing deorizing impregnation for wood, paint for wood or wood varnish for timber, but also as more effectively wood cracking agent.
On external walls ah from the timber because design feature The cross-section of a beam is the UNEVEN DENSITY of wood on its surface. From this difference in the surface densities of the wood along the entire length of the beam occurs different speeds drying of each individual section of the timber, which leads to deformation, cracking, delamination on the timber, and the formation of cracks in the house and bathhouse of the timber built from them.

How to treat timber against cracking. How to treat the ends of the log house and bathhouse from drying out, cracking and cracking.

Knowing how to treat the timber against the formation of cracks so that the timber does not crack and by choosing the right impregnation against cracks on the timber, you can not only maintain the beautiful appearance of a wooden house, but also extend the time until the necessary periodic renewal of the finishing impregnation, and also, if not 100% get rid of from cracking timber house and baths on its walls, then SIGNIFICANTLY shorten the process of their appearance and reduce the number, depth and frequency of cracks on the walls of your house.
Worthy, TIME TESTED, natural and CHEAP option impregnations to protect timber from cracking, impregnations to protect timber from cracks with the possibility of ACTIVE control and leveling of the surface density of wood on timber and logs are OIL-WAX impregnations or impregnations based on oil and wax, i.e. ANTA OIL WAX.

A house made of timber NOT TREATED with anti-cracking impregnation. Formation of cracks in timber.

To answer the question of how to treat timber from cracking so that the timber does not crack, as well as how to treat timber from cracking, how to treat the ends of a log house and a bathhouse from drying out, cracking and cracking, we suggest you consider those tested in practice by our trusted PARTNERS, whom we trust , house-building companies and teams engaged in the construction of houses and bathhouses from logs and timber on an ongoing basis, classic INEXPENSIVE, safe and very effective impregnations based on natural linseed oil and beeswax to protect logs, beams, ends from cracking and reduce the likelihood of cracks forming on logs and beams Anta Oil Wax.

Protection of log logs from CRACKING. Protection of the ENDS of the log house.

After assembling ANY wooden house, it doesn’t matter what it’s made of: logs manual cutting, from rounded logs, from timber of natural moisture or from profiled or planed timber, one of the main and most important tasks is to preserve the appearance of the house and the quality of the log or timber from CRACKING, to preserve the ends of the house made of logs or timber from cracks.

How to avoid cracking of logs and cracks in timber.

When building a house or a log bathhouse from hand-cut logs, as well as from rounded logs, a log or beam of natural moisture is usually used. The house is assembled and left to stand and dry naturally - “shrinkage”.
During this period, usually lasting from 6 months to 1 year, less often up to 3 years, the timber of the log house or beam begins to dry naturally, releasing excess moisture, which it was saturated with during the period of tree growth, in environment. The time and speed of release of excess moisture from the capillaries of timber and logs depends on many initial factors:

• Wood harvesting time . Those. when wood was harvested for the construction of your house or bathhouse. If the forest was harvested for construction in the winter, then the moisture content of the logs and timber may be minimal, because sap flow in wood winter period almost stopped or very little - the tree “sleeps” waiting out the winter and cold weather. But with the first rays spring sun the movement of juices and moles inside a living tree is activated, the wood is saturated with juices for growth in the warm summer season,
• Wood species , used to make your home. The looser the wood, the more it can crack. Dense wood releases excess moisture more evenly, which means less cracking occurs.
• Wood harvesting region . The more northerly, harsher, more continental the climate of growth and harvesting of wood from which to build a house, the more slowly the tree used to build your house or bathhouse can grow, the smaller the width of the “annual ring” by which the age of the tree is determined, the denser it is. the result is wood. From wood obtained in wetlands or damp lowlands, you are unlikely to be able to get a high-quality log house,
• From the age of the tree , used for the construction of a log house or for the manufacture of timber for it. The faster a tree grows, the longer it is, but thinner, the wood density of young trees is less than that of century-old pines, which are usually cut into high-quality log houses,
• From correct storage sawn trunks harvested even in winter or from winter felling forests. Immediately, the debarked log begins to quickly and unevenly release natural moisture, which affects uneven drying and, as a result, severe cracking,
• From the correct felling of the log house and processing of logs and felling of the log house carpenters in the manufacture of a log house and on the correctness of cutting the log house and the experience of carpenters who cut the log house and must know some rules that allow minimizing cracking of logs in the log house or bathhouse. For example, it is enough to make a small longitudinal cut with a chainsaw along the groove of a log in order to minimize external cracking of the log, and if the log tries to form a crack, then this minor rupture, in the presence of such a technological groove, should occur inside the log along the groove, and not along the outside or inner wall logs facing outside or inside the frame of the house. Such a crack does not affect the quality of the log house, does not spoil its appearance and is invisible on the surface of the house,

Usually quality houses They build logs of winter fellings with natural humidity, the logs of which are harvested in December - February. The felling of a log house on plots according to the customer's design or the production of timber for the customer's house kit can also be done in the winter. Cutting a log house and preparing timber on sawmills usually takes about a month. The first log houses for assembly on the customer's site are usually ready for delivery to the customer by the end of February, beginning of March. Assembling a medium-sized 7x9 house takes approximately 2 weeks to a month. Those. log house from winter forest could be delivered to the customer as early as March. The weather in March is still quite cold and the built house does not experience sharp temperature fluctuations and releases excess moisture relatively evenly.
Collected in ready house a log frame or timber laid in the walls of a house must “dry”, “settle”, “stand” as evenly as possible for a certain time to avoid sudden removal of moisture from the logs or timber, which can lead to severe cracking of the log and timber or “twisting” of the logs and “twisting” the timber in the walls assembled house. The slower the temperature changes at the time of standing of the log house, the smoother the differences in day and night temperatures, the better, more uniform and better than wood in the log house get rid of excess internal moisture and the less likely it is for the timber to crack in the walls of the house.

Why does cracking of logs and timber occur, cracks at the ends
logs and timber after assembling a house or bathhouse during the standing period.

Cracking of logs in a log house, cracking of the ends of logs, cracking of timber occurs due to the fact that the timber or log begins to release its moisture very quickly and, as a result, unevenly when heated unevenly various sides logs or timber walls by various external or internal influences, for example, sudden warming, the rapid onset of spring with warm weather during the day and severe cooling or frost at night. Rapid fluctuations in daily temperatures, active thermal effects of the sun, which strongly heats only one outer side of a house made of logs or timber assembled on standing, forced internal heating or heating of a log house when starting finishing at the unfinished stage of standing of a log house or bathhouse, it leads to a change in the difference in wood density. Logs of a log house on the heated sunny side, where the density of the wood has become less due to the rapid dehydration of the log or timber, causing the density of the wood to become less than the density of the moisture-saturated log on the side of the house not heated by the sun, the log ruptures - cracks in the logs of the log house or cracking of the timber, or twisting of the timber in the wall of the house, which leads to deformation of the timber in the wall and the wall itself.

How to avoid cracking of logs or beams in a log house.
Protect the frame of the house from cracking. Protection of timber from cracking.
How to protect the ends of logs from cracks. Protection of ends from cracking

Even if the weather allows the log house assembled for standing to dry relatively evenly, then TO AVOID CRACKING OF THE LOG and ENDS OF THE LOG, IT IS STILL NECESSARY TO EVEN THE DENSITY OF THE WOOD DENSITY OF THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE LOG.
Looking at a cut of a log, you can see that the log or beam in cross section has annual rings. The closer to the core of the log, the thicker the annual rings, the looser the wood, its density is naturally lower, here the wood is the oldest, it was formed when the tree was still very young. The closer to the edge of the log, the THINTER the annual rings, the density of the log is higher, the wood is harder, the capillaries are thinner. The densest layers of a log are the outer annual rings, which are located practically under the bark and which remain on the surface after debarking the trunk during the manufacture of a log house. But when cutting logs to the size of a log house, the softest parts of the log still partially end up on the surface of the log along the end edges of the log, bare and unprotected.

Conditions preventing cracking of logs and timber:

1. Gradual drying of the log, uniform smooth changes in temperature when a log house made of logs or timber is standing,
2. Equal wood density on all sides and ends of the log,
3. Ensuring equal vapor permeability of the log on all sides, preventing uneven saturation of the wood of a log or timber in its different areas by external natural or other factors such as rain, precipitation, etc. and for the uniform release of excess moisture from the capillaries of the wood,

The first condition can be met by giving the log house at least half a year time to naturally stand and dry, with the active organization of a ventilation system for external walls and internal space log house, making technological openings in the log house in the places of windows and doors for blowing and ventilating the log house.
The second and third conditions can be achieved by treating sections of logs with special protective compounds and impregnations. Equal density over the log area is ensured by treating the softest sides or parts of the log with SPECIAL impregnations to PROTECT the ENDS of the log house. Having treated the loosest areas of the log - the ENDS of the logs - with high-quality moisture-proof but VAPTOR-PERMEABLE impregnations to protect the ends, for example Oil wax Butt (link to the manufacturer's website Oil wax for end protection ), we thus compact them, smoothing out the density of the wood over its entire area. With an equally uniform density of wood, moisture will be removed from a naturally drying log evenly along the entire length of the trunk, thereby reducing the risk of rupture and cracking of logs or beams. The ENDS of logs treated with a SPECIAL vapor-permeable moisture-proof impregnation will not get WET; moisture will be removed through them in exactly the same way and at exactly the same speed as on the outer sections of the log, where the density of the wood was higher than that of the untreated section of the end of the log.

Compositions for protecting logs and beams from cracks.
Impregnations to protect the ends of logs from cracking

Protection of the ends of the log house from cracks and cracking - photo.
Protection of log logs from cracking - photo

Through cross sections, natural moisture retained in the wood after the tree is cut down comes out faster than from the sides of the trunk. If the ends are not covered in a timely manner, the shrinkage will occur unevenly. The contrast will be too significant - the wet inside of the trunk and the overdried ends. In addition to the cracks that appear, the log begins to bend, and the log house begins to warp. Just look at the materials lying for a long time on outdoors to verify the correctness of this statement. Without processing the ends:

• lose their natural color - quickly darken;
• become infected with a fungus - first black stripes and spots appear, and then mold;
• eaten by insects and rodents;
• quickly turn to dust.

And if ownerless logs can simply not be used in construction, then no one will dismantle the laid crowns until the log house finally becomes unusable. Preventive and planned measures will help extend the service life of a building. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the logs, the protection and treatment of which is carried out with means that do not impede the process of air exchange in the wood structure. This characteristic composition is very important, since when the natural outlet of moisture from the log is closed, it will begin to rot from the inside. You need to understand that the side of the barrel will not provide an opportunity for optimal disposal of internal dampness from the material.

Cover the ends of wood that has not yet completely dried bitumen mastics is strictly not allowed.

What to process

In the rural outback, the log ends of the frame are coated with lime, which protects against moisture, mold, and insects. This is considered a classic option, but today it is used less and less. There are more than modern means domestically produced, in no way inferior to foreign analogues. Is that their cost is somewhat lower and more affordable for most consumers.

We list some antiseptic agents that are intended for treating the ends of logs:

• BIOTOR - significantly reduces the formation of cracks, limits the impregnation of the ends with moisture, eliminates the curvature of fibers during wood drying;
• NEOMID TOP PLUS – forms a thin, but integral, water-repellent and “breathable” film on the surface, emphasizes the texture of the wood cut, protects against rot, and protects against fungal infection;
• SENEZH TOR - penetrates inside the wood structure, allows air to pass through, but is a barrier to the penetration of moisture, prevents the appearance of cracks and mold, has long term active action, practically does not change the natural color of the wood.

All listed compositions are environmentally friendly. They are certified and therefore do not contain prohibited and harmful components. Timely processing of the ends saves the log from uneven shrinkage, which implies a more stable shrinkage of the walls of a wooden house.

The process of protecting the ends of a log house

The first step upon completion of the construction of the log house is to trim the logs, aligning the protrusions of the parallel crowns in one vertical plane. The work is carried out using a gas or electric saw. As a result, the facade acquires a neat, finished look, and the ends acquire a smooth, well-groomed surface.

Crosscutting requires experience, a steady hand and maximum precision.

After leveling the ends, they begin to grind them, or clean up any irregularities. At this stage, we get rid of not only visual defects, but also dark spots that predetermine the appearance of fungal infection. They use in their work grinding machine, or an angle grinder equipped special nozzle. Experts recommend grinding the ends only in dry weather, and after several sunny days. Relatively dry wood is easier to process, and a stretchy pile of wet fibers does not form on its surface.

After cleaning the ends from wood dust, impregnation is carried out. This process involves the application of a protective preparation that saves the logs from drying out too quickly and from insufficient drying. It is, as it were, a balancing regulator between the dryness and moisture content of wood. The composition is applied with a wide brush in two times, allowing a time reserve between layers to allow high-quality absorption of the drug into the structure of the log. The mixture must be smeared generously, without stretching, otherwise all efforts will be in vain. It should be understood that the end part of the log has greater absorption capacity than its side surfaces. Taking into account this requirement, it is recommended to purchase the drug in reserve.

Additionally, the ends are treated with special “breathable” sealants. They are manufactured at acrylic base, but are intended specifically for cross-sections of wood. each region has its own trade marks similar means, so it makes no sense to list them. In the nearest construction supermarket, managers will be able to recommend the most popular sealant. But it would be better to ask for reviews from craftsmen working in a specific area. They can be easily found on the Internet.