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How to properly screw the first sheet of metal tiles. A roof made of metal tiles is reliable protection in a new home. Types of metal tiles are determined based on the protective layer applied to its surface

At incorrect installation tiled covering, the service life of such a roof is significantly reduced. We propose to consider how metal tiles are fastened to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, a diagram for installing sheets, and also how the end strip (wind strip) is installed.

The principle of installation of tiles

Installing this roofing covering made using standard construction screws. The use of nails is extremely undesirable, because under impact loads, the layers of metal tiles disintegrate, which is why construction material is destroyed.

Photo - Metal tile installation system

Roofing screws used for installation of corrugated boards, boards, metal tiles and other materials. Externally, they look like steel screws, often made of alloy material. The surface of the screws is coated with a layer of zinc to better resist corrosion processes. The head of the screws has a hexagonal shape. Thanks to this geometry of the product, the load is distributed evenly over the surface of the metal tile sheet.

Photo - correct and incorrect fastening of metal tiles

There must be a flat ring or gasket under the head. This part protects the roof surface from scratches and corrosion. Also, thanks to the gasket, depressions or dents do not form on the roof after installation of the covering. Self-tapping screws can be selected with different metal alloys, colors, head sizes and lengths. All these parameters must be agreed upon with the engineer who calculated the roof. But always pay special attention to the washers; they must be made of a durable rubber compound.

Photo - self-tapping screw for roofing works

The shelf life of fasteners, like metal tiles, is within 50 years. In this case, it is very important to strictly monitor the gasket. If the washer is made of low-quality material, the metal underneath will begin to rust before the time specified by the manufacturer, which can cause damage to the entire surface of the roof.

Photo - installation diagram of metal tiles

How to mount correctly

When you have already decided on the material and purchased fasteners, you can begin installing the roofing material. To properly attach metal tiles to the roof with your own hands, you need to use advice professional builders:

1. Make sure that the washer is in the upright position, was not pinched and did not protrude upward;
2. In order to install the metal tiles evenly on the sheathing, you need to use guidelines. It is not convenient for everyone to mark the installation locations of screws on each sheet; many professional builders advise to navigate by the previous step of metal tiles. By stepping back from it a couple of centimeters, you will ensure simple and beautiful installation material;
3. Use a screwdriver - this will significantly speed up the installation process;
4. Screw the screws into the lower parts of the wave; when installing fasteners on the ridge, you may not be able to reach the sheathing with the screw, which will lead to a decrease in the rigidity of the roof;
5. The self-tapping screw must fit into the roof frame at least two centimeters. This is very important both for the rigidity of the surface and for its tightness. With this supply, you will close the holes into which the screws and washers were screwed and ensure the dryness of the under-roof space.;
6. Check all connections carefully, otherwise when there are gusts of wind they will knock heavily on the roof and may even come off and cause damage.

Instructions on how to attach metal tiles:

1. Install the first sheet of metal shingles level with the end strip. It is along this part of the roof that the leveling is carried out;
2. Then, using a screwdriver, connect the covering and the rafters. It is very important that the screw goes into the rafter board to a depth of 2 centimeters. To do this, choose screws with a length of 60 millimeters;
3. On any metal corrugated covering you need to attach up to 8 pieces of self-tapping screws. A smaller amount will increase the likelihood of reducing the fastening strength, and a larger amount will significantly reduce rigidity;
4. Sheets of metal tiles are mounted in the direction from the base to the ridge or top of the grid;
5. At the end of the work, treat the joints between the screws and the roofing with special mastic. This will help protect them from corrosion if the surface of the metal tiles is damaged. Before purchasing such a product, be sure to consult with sales consultants. Some types of paints and varnishes damage the polymer top layer of tiles, reducing its resistance to aggressive external factors.

There are several secrets that help when installing metal tiles. For example, for perfect evenness of the cornice strip, it is important to install the very first row of sheets with high quality. The parallelism of other sheets depends on its geometric accuracy.

The fastening points for metal tiles must be at right angles to the roof. This scheme helps ensure the tightness and durability of the connection. Also, thanks to such connections, a jagged surface (cascade) is formed along the purlins, which prevents snow from falling from the roof surface.

Video instructions for attaching tiles

Hidden mount

Nowadays metal tiles with hidden lock eg Monterrey. It is considered more aesthetic, but the process is also more labor-intensive. This installation requires special metal tiles, which is equipped with special holders.

Photo - Metal tiles with hidden fastening

The procedure for attaching metal tiles with a hidden connection:

1. Install holders on the sheathing that will serve as a support for the tile sheets. They need to be mounted on the very first eaves beam. The optimal pitch of the holder along the rafters is 250 mm;
2. Now, without using additional screws, hook the sheet of metal tile onto the holder and lightly press it until it clicks. At correct location the first row, the rest will not need adjustment or alignment;
3. To install further coverage, you will need self-tapping screws. They need to be mounted on the roof in special places indicated by depressions on the sheets of metal tiles;
4. After this comes a row of tiles, which are secured using special Z-lock “locks”. They are located in designated areas, their location is marked with special marks, which you can find in the instructions for a specific brand of roofing;
5. After this, the standard fastening of the ridge of the metal tile is carried out.

Photo - Metal tiles with z-lock lock

It should be noted that this method of installing roof coverings is more practical and safer than standard installation with self-tapping screws. The minimal use of bolts can significantly extend the life of the roof and ensure the required rigidity and strength of the coating. Such materials are sold in company stores.

With this installation option, the accuracy of fastening the wooden wind strip and metal tiles is also very important. It is worth remembering that before starting roofing work it is necessary to install gutters and other drainage elements. For the beauty of the facades, we advise you to cover the open space below with planks after finishing the work.

Photo - snow guards on the roof

But at the same time, the snow retainers are attached to the metal tiles after the sheets are installed. The technology is simple: in certain places you need to make holes in the roof, and then install additional elements on it using a screwdriver. This way you can install roofing material on the roof of a house, garage or veranda.

Metal tiles are a unique roofing material that can be used to create a strong, beautiful and durable coating. Installing such a roof is not difficult, and many home craftsmen take on the work themselves, but in order for the results to be pleasing, you need to know how to attach metal tiles correctly.

General information about metal tiles

Metal tiles are roofing materials made from steel sheets with polymer coating. Thanks to special stamping, the material looks like natural tiles laid in rows.

It is commonly said that the transverse rows of a profile are waves, and the longitudinal profile is called rows. The distance between rows is called the pitch of metal tiles.

The most common option is when the overall width of the sheet is 1180 mm, and the working width is 1100 (80 mm of the material width is used to form an overlap). The pitch of metal tiles, in most cases, is 350 mm.

The bottom cut is located at a distance of 5 cm from the bottom edge of the stamping; the length of the segment from the top edge of the stamping to the top cut depends on the length of the sheet, which is calculated depending on the needs of the customer.

Such metal tiles as Andalusia, Spanish dune, Spanish Sierra have figured cut, located 5 mm below the stamping line.

If the metal tiles are fastened correctly, then the joints of the sheets along the waves and rows will be absolutely invisible. Metal tiles are installed on pitched roofs with an inclination angle of at least 14 degrees.

Along with metal tiles, the following elements are purchased:

• Roofing strips – cornice, ridge, valley;
• Flat sheets of metal with the same coating as metal tiles for the construction of aprons for pipes and expensive roofing elements.

General rules for installing metal tiles

Let's consider general rules fixing metal tiles:

• It is very important that the fastening of metal tiles with self-tapping screws is carried out strictly perpendicularly, that is, the supplied self-tapping screw must form a right angle with the surface of the sheathing.
• When attaching the sheet to the sheathing, self-tapping screws are screwed in at the point where the wave deflects.
• The bottom sheet is attached to the initial strip with a self-tapping screw positioned through one wave.
• How to properly attach metal tiles in places of vertical overlap? For this, short self-tapping screws (screw length 19 mm) are used, which fasten the sheets together. Screw the screws into the decline of the wave.
• Along the perimeter of the roof, self-tapping screws are placed in the deflection of each of the waves. Next, the screws are placed in a checkerboard pattern, screwing them into each lath.
• Consumption of self-tapping screws per square meter coverings - 8 pieces, when attaching accessories - three pieces per linear meter on each side.
• Accessories are attached with screw spacing of 350 mm, each transverse wave. When fastening along the slope, screws are screwed into the upper ridge, and then through one wave.
• When fastening metal tiles, it is necessary to immediately remove shavings or sawdust formed during the process from the surface of the coating. To do this, you should arm yourself with a soft bristle brush. If sawdust is not removed in time, it will quickly rust and ruin the appearance of the coating.

• When laying a sheet, the next or previous sheet completely overlaps the extreme wave of the adjacent sheet, closing the anti-capillary groove. When installing with inserting a sheet, the edge of the next one is brought under the edge of the previous one. Thus, installation is somewhat easier than when overlapping from above, since the subsequent sheet is fixed by the previous one, that is, sliding of a loose sheet is prevented. However, when this method installation increases the risk of damaging the metal tile coating.
• Regardless of the geometry of the slope, metal tile sheets are always aligned horizontal plane along the cornice line. Before attaching the metal tiles to the sheathing, assemble a block of three or four sheets, connecting them together using short self-tapping screws. In this case, the first sheet at the top point is secured with a single screw. As a result, it becomes possible to rotate the resulting block relative to this screw, achieving perfect alignment relative to the cornice and side edges.

• Let's look at how to properly fasten metal tiles if the roof slope is triangular. In this case, it is necessary to make markings in advance, marking the center of the slope and drawing an axis through it. Then the same axis needs to be marked on a sheet of roofing material. During installation, the axes must coincide. The sheet is fastened with one self-tapping screw at the top point; further installation is carried out according to the same principles as on rectangular roofs.
• When installing metal tiles on triangular slopes, as well as in the area of ​​valleys, the sheets inevitably need to be trimmed. To make this more convenient, it is recommended to assemble a handy tool, which roofers call a “devil.” To do this, take four boards, two of them are placed parallel to each other, the other two are perpendicular to them. In this case, the fastening should be hinged, not rigid. Distance between inner surface left board and outer side the right board should be 1100 mm, that is, it should be equal to the working width of the metal tile sheet. To complete the work, the sheet that needs to be cut is placed on the “devil”. One side of the device is placed on the edge of the slope or valley, and the second is used to mark the cutting line. When using the device, you need to ensure that its transverse boards are positioned strictly horizontally.

Features of installation of metal tiles with hidden fastening

If the roof is covered with a material such as metal tiles with hidden fastening, then self-tapping screws with a press washer are used as a fastening element.

But since the fastening screws on the surface of the covering will not be visible, you can use galvanized screws that are not painted in the color of the roof.

The main difference between the installation is that you do not have to make through holes in the roofing, since the self-tapping screw is screwed into a specially made groove.

The sheets are fastened together by hooking mounting protrusions and grooves located on the edges.

The installation location of the self-tapping screw is hidden by installing the next sheet. That is, there are no fastenings or through holes on the surface of the coating. Of course, this roof covering option allows you to create an absolutely airtight and, therefore, more durable coating.

Fastening metal tiles to eaves and roof ridge

When decorating a cornice, as a rule, the sheets are laid so that the bottom cut protrudes beyond the edge of the strip by 40-50 mm. This is done in order to rainwater directly from the sheet of metal tiles fell into the gutters.

To prevent the lower protruding cut from sagging, the outermost strip of the sheathing is made 15 mm thicker than the others.

An option is possible when a special strip is attached to the cornice, which serves to drain water.

On the eaves, the metal tile fastening points are located along the eaves line approximately 7-8 centimeters above the stamping location; self-tapping screws must be tightened through one wave.

If the length of the top cut of the metal tile is more than 13 cm of the extreme stamping line, then a ridge board of increased thickness is additionally mounted above the top board of the sheathing. In this case, you must remember to leave a ventilation gap between the upper elements of the sheathing of adjacent slopes of at least 80 mm.

The fastening is carried out in the deflections of the waves of the outermost row of stamping with a step of one wave. And if the cutting length is more than 130 mm, then it is additionally strengthened and top part leaf.

How to install metal tiles around pipes and other obstacles?

When avoiding vertical obstacles, it is important to be able to “intercept” water flowing vertically and distribute it to the sides. In addition, it is necessary to direct the water flowing down the slope located above the pipe, around the obstacle.

Let's look at how to properly attach the abutment strip to a metal tile and how to mount the inner and outer apron.

Advice! If the walls of the pipe are planned to be plastered, then this must be done before the roofing work begins.

Additional sheathing boards must be installed around the pipe to ensure a continuous covering. Sheets of metal tiles adjacent to the pipe on the left and right must be cut at a distance of at least 150 mm from the top surface of the pipe. The cut should be located 8 cm above the extreme stamping line. Let's start installing the apron:

• We mark the junction lines of the bottom strip; they should be at least 15 cm above the surface of the metal tile. A groove is made along the line using a grinder, into which the bottom strip is inserted.
• First of all, assemble the lower part of the apron, then the sides.
• The lower apron is covered with sheets of metal tiles, and the upper parts of the apron are mounted on top.

Advice! To make the top apron lay more evenly, you should straighten the metal tile sheets using a mallet.

• The upper parts of the apron should extend beyond the cutting line of the sheets adjacent to the pipe by at least 20 cm. At the top, the apron part should have a flange directed upwards.
• The parts of the upper apron are connected to each other using the technology adopted when performing tin work. It is advisable to additionally use silicone sealant.

Mistakes that novice roofers often make

First, you should choose the right fasteners for metal tiles. Often, when purchasing high-quality metal tiles that have a service life of 50 years, novice roofers do not pay attention to the quality of the fasteners.

As a result, instead of roofing screws with an ethylene-propylene rubber gasket, screws with a washer made of ordinary rubber are purchased. Such a washer will quickly dry out and crack, and the tightness of the coating will noticeably decrease.

Secondly, inexperienced builders often make the mistake of screwing a self-tapping screw into the top point of the wave using a screw with a long thread. In this case, it is not possible to achieve a sufficient fit of the washer, and if significant force is applied, there is a risk of denting the metal tile.

conclusions

Thus, the technology for fastening metal tiles is not particularly complicated. However, when carrying out roofing work, you must follow the installation rules and installation recommendations given by the manufacturer.

IN modern construction One of the most popular materials for creating roofing is metal tiles. It has earned its popularity due to its strength, durability, good appearance and reasonable cost. In addition, it is easy to install if you follow the basic rules. The main thing is to fasten the material efficiently and correctly, which will subsequently determine the reliability of the entire structure.

Read also how to make

Why is metal tile popular?

Metal tiles are a profiled galvanized steel sheet, which is treated with several layers on the outside polymer coating. In appearance it is similar to ceramics, and due to its reliability it is ideal for use in our climate.

Types of metal tiles are determined based on the protective layer applied to its surface:

• Pural. Its thickness is about 50 microns. This coating resists corrosion, fading and mechanical stress. Pural is the most balanced in thickness, pleasant to look at and is sold at affordable price, which makes it quite popular among builders.
• Polyester. Its thickness is about 30 microns. It comes in regular and matte finishes. The regular one has a low price and great wear resistance, while the matte one has high color fastness. Typically, users choose plain polyester, although sometimes matte looks more advantageous in buildings.
• Plastisol. This is the most thick coating– up to 200 microns. If you want to do quality roofing roofs, it is better to choose plastisol - a practical and durable coating that will last as long as possible.

Also, when purchasing, you should find out what equipment was used in the manufacture of the material, since the quality of metal tiles depends on the rolling mill used.

Types of metal tiles

The type of metal tile influences the choice of its attachment to the sheathing. U different types metal tiles have different step geometry and depth, and therefore work with sheets differently. According to this parameter, seven types of material can be distinguished. Also check out .

1. Monterrey. The most popular and well-known type, used for more than thirty years. It has low and gentle waves of bends. Best quality near Finnish Monterrey, reminiscent in geometric shape natural tiles. The main thing is that it is quite light and durable.
2. Modern. It's essentially a variation of the Monterrey, but with a different wave shape - angular rather than round. It has the standard features but its own unique look.
3. Joker. This type has a regular wave of tiles with a rounded base and ridge shape.
4. Andalusia. This coating has recently appeared on the market. It is made on special equipment with built-in hidden fasteners.
5. Cascade. A fairly popular coating is shaped like a chocolate bar. His distinctive feature– this is the large width of the tiles, which greatly simplifies the installation process. So this type, by far the most economical among others. In cases where the roof complex shape, it is Cascade that is usually purchased. Its strict linear shapes make this metal tile the most convenient for roofing.
6. Shanghai. The shape of this metal tile is influenced by oriental motifs. This is understandable: this species came to our market from eastern countries.
7. Banga. Another the new kind. It has an attractive wave geometry, reminiscent of neatly laid halves of pipes. The Banga material differs from the others in its highest wave height.

Installation tools

For work you will need:

• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• long, straight rail;
• cord, marker and tape measure;
• silicone sealant and a gun for it;
• you also need a tool to cut the material - it can be a grinder with a thin carbide disk or metal scissors (electric, manual or perforated).

What screws should I use?

Metal tiles are fastened using special roofing screws. They are galvanized screws with a hex head. They are usually painted in different colors, matching the color of the coating. They have a drill at the tip and are also equipped with a sealing washer.

It is important to take high-quality screws so that their service life is equal to the service life of the roof. Quite often, inexperienced builders purchase simple fasteners and an improved polymer coating that can last fifty years, which later turns into problems during operation. This happens because in low-quality self-tapping screws, instead of propylene rubber, simple rubber is used as a material for the sealing washer. Low frequency rubber due to impact ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes, it dries out, and after a few years it simply crumbles, becoming fragile.

Important Operating Rules

• The cutting tool can be metal scissors or a saw with a circular cutter. A grinder should not always be used: when cutting, it can destroy the protective layer, which will reduce the corrosion resistance of the material.
• When laying metal tiles, roofing hexagonal screws with a rubber gasket included are used as fasteners and to fix them on wooden boards. They must match the color of the material.
• Self-tapping screws are attached only perpendicular to the surface of the wooden planks.
• When operating a screwdriver, the torque should be limited. This will help avoid deformation of the gasket, turning the self-tapping screw in the sheathing and insufficient sealing of the hole. Before starting work, it is necessary to adjust this operating parameter with the tool, since the gasket should be slightly compressed upon completion of twisting. Be sure to check how tightly each fastener is screwed in.
• The approximate number of self-tapping screws is 10 pieces per square meter, and also, if it is necessary to attach accessories, another three self-tapping screws per linear meter.
• It is necessary to work in shoes with soft soles. You should step into the deflections of the “waves” so that the material is not damaged.
• If damage to the polymer layer or scratches to the metal tile sheet are found, it is better to paint over the problem area immediately. Spray paint is used for this. suitable color. The same is done with all the cuts on the sheets.
• The sheets are fastened so that each subsequent sheet covers the lock of the previous one.
• The installation of the roof begins, taking into account the shape of the roof. If it is tented, then they start from the highest point of the ridge on both sides of the slope. If the roof is gable, then start from the end part.

We fasten sheets of metal tiles to the sheathing correctly

The sheathing is a structure made of equal-sized wooden boards. It is mounted at a certain distance, which must correspond to the pitch of the metal tile used. Those boards that are located at the eaves and under the ridge should be thicker. Here the required distance between the boards is no longer maintained.

When sheets of material are attached to the roof slope, the screws are tightened along a line that is located ten centimeters below the stamping line between the ridges. If the sheathing is done correctly, the screws can be screwed into any regular place, since there is always a board there.

The metal is laid on boards without a technological gap to guarantee high reliability and fully pressed sheets to the sheathing without possible deformation of the material. In this case, the fastenings will remain invisible, since they will be hidden by the created “steps”.

Methods for joining sheets

During installation use different ways performing docking: in rows or in waves. If the joining is done along the waves, then this helps protect the plane of the roofing material from the influence of side winds, and in appearance the slope will be solid and homogeneous. In this case, all screws are screwed in each row below the stamping line, and near the ridge they are screwed to the outer edge of the topmost sheet.

When joining is done in rows, it is done on step lathing boards, that is, fasteners are placed on the board in each wave. The fastenings are distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the slope. You need to move from the cornice to the ridge. Fixation is done in every third wave, moving one wave of the sheet in any direction when it is necessary to switch to the next row to continue fastening.

Fastening sheets along the eaves line

Quite often you can see the formation of a cornice sheet when the sheet protrudes beyond the edge by about fifty millimeters. In this case, after rain, all the water will go directly into the gutter, and wooden elements the structures will not be damaged by splashes, so they will last for a very long time. In this case, the screws are screwed in through one wave, making it seventy millimeters higher than the stamping line.

At the same time, the lower waves should not sag down. Therefore, they are attached to a board whose thickness is twenty millimeters greater than the thickness of the other boards. Between the center of the cornice board and the center of the first step board the distance will be 250 millimeters if the width was 100 millimeters.

In addition, this unit can be formed in such a way that the standard cut of the metal tile is on top of the cornice board. At the same time, rainwater will flow directly from it into the gutters. Typically, this method is used if the roofing situation is complex, a stepped cornice needs to be made, or if the geometry of the roof has been violated.

We attach the metal tiles to the end of the slope

First of all, sheets of metal tiles are fixed in regular places in each wave of material along the end line of the roof slope. After this, the end strip is fixed: to do this, it is fixed to the highest point of each sheet through one wave of material. The distance between fastenings should be no more than eighty centimeters.

Fastening metal tiles when approaching the ridge

The sheathing at the top point of the structure ends with a ridge support board. When attaching metal tiles to it, you must install an additional ridge board so that a gap of eighty millimeters is formed between the boards of adjacent slopes. This gap is important when organizing roof ventilation.

To bring the ridge strip to the end section of the structure, it is necessary to mount a support board on top of the strip. It should be twenty millimeters thicker than the others. This will avoid “sagging” of the skate.

Fasten the ridge strip with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the roofing material. Between the fasteners a distance of up to eighty centimeters is maintained. The fixing points must be located at equal distances so that there is no deformation of the ridge when the screws are tightened.

• To make the work easier, you need to follow a simple rule: starting work from the left edge of the structure, each sheet to be fixed should be brought under the wave of the previous sheet.
• Having secured the first sheet to the ridge with a self-tapping screw, you should lay the second one so that you get a perfectly straight line at the bottom.
• Sealing tapes must be installed at the junction of roof surfaces, if it has a hipped shape, as well as at the ridge. The tape is nailed to the profile and the protected joint or ridge is covered with a strip. When using the material for waterproofing, there is no need for additional sealant.
• On the spot internal joint It is recommended to use a standard groove design. An overlap of more than fifteen centimeters is not allowed. The resulting seam must be sealed.
• The ridge strip is installed only after all work on attaching the metal tiles has been completely completed.
• In areas with overlaps and through holes, a special sealing compound, usually silicone, is used.

If you know how to attach metal tiles, adhering to all the rules and technologies, then you can be sure that the house will receive reliable and beautiful protection from any weather conditions.

Not only causes discomfort, but also causes significant harm health. High humidity under the roof space is fraught with the appearance of fungus on the walls. And if water constantly collects on the roof, this can lead to damage to electrical wiring and collapse of walls. The most annoying thing is that to fix these problems, the roof usually has to be completely disassembled and reinstalled. Therefore, even if the roofing installation is carried out by a specially hired team of professionals, it is better for the owner of the building to be familiar with the basic principles correct installation roofing, in order to be confident in the quality of the work performed.

A metal tile roof is aesthetically pleasing, as well as quite strong and durable to use.

Currently, they are widely used. There is a logical explanation for this - a large number of advantages. Durability, efficiency, reliability, lightness of the product, ease of installation, presentable design, variety color solutions, long service life, resistance to mechanical damage and temperature changes - all this is ensured with proper installation of this material. Correct fastening metal tiles on the roof are reliable, economical and durable protection for a new home.

Calculation of the amount of material for metal roofing

Before installation, it is necessary to carefully measure the roof area.

A metal tile sheet has two width units: general and useful. To count the number of horizontal rows of the slope, you need maximum length Divide the horizontal lines of the slope by the useful width of the sheet. Round the result to big side. This calculation takes into account the horizontal overlap of the rows. The total length of the sheets in a row consists of the sum of three components: the length of the slope from the top to the bottom, the overhang from the eaves and the vertical overlap of the sheets. The overhang is made to prevent water from getting under the roofing sheet in strong winds and is usually taken to be 5 cm. The vertical overlap of the sheets is usually 15 cm. In order to calculate the required number of sheets, you need to divide their total length by the useful width of one sheet.

The number of rolls of hydro- and vapor barrier is calculated by dividing the total, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm, by the area of ​​the material in the roll. Recommended insulation thickness for middle zone Russia - 20 cm. To calculate the required number of additional elements, you need to add up the lengths of the sides of the slopes for each type of plank (the usual length of additional elements is 2 m) and divide by 1.9, taking into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm. When calculating the lower valley, you need to divide length by 1.7, since the required horizontal overlap here is 30 cm. All results are rounded up. To calculate how many self-tapping screws are needed, we multiply the total roof area by 8. When calculating the number of self-tapping screws for additional elements, we also multiply the sum of the lengths of all planks by 8.

Installation diagram of metal tiles

Roof laying scheme

1. Fastening the cornice (frontal) board and hooks for the drainage system.
2. Laying the lower valley.
3. Installation of internal junctions of slopes to walls and protruding elements.
4. Fastening of covering sheets.
5. Laying the upper valley.
6. Installation of the upper ones.
7. Fastening of end elements.
8. Fasteners external corners and ridge strips.

Each stage of installation is carried out exactly in the sequence in which it is indicated in the diagram. Next, we will study all the stages in more detail.

Fastening the cornice (frontal) board and hooks for the drain

First, a few words about the rafter system. Correct calculation rafter system– guarantee of roof durability. The cross section and should be carefully calculated. Considering the lightness of the material, the distance between the rafters can be from 600 to 900 mm. should be equal to 100x50 mm or 150x50 mm. For additional ventilation, small holes should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from each other in the upper part of the roof on the side of the rafters.

Before installation, the bars must be treated with antiseptic and fire-resistant agents.

After construction, they are checked for squareness (the dimensions of the diagonals of the roof slopes are compared), horizontality and flatness. For rapid moisture drainage, it is 14º (the installation diagram of the slope must correspond to the expression: the length of the slope exceeds the height of the roof by no more than 4 times).

Fastening is done with special screws, the durability of the entire structure also depends on them.

A cornice board is installed in specially cut grooves in the rafters, which adds rigidity to the structure. The second option for imparting rigidity to the structure is to install a front board, which is attached to the end of the rafters with galvanized nails in increments of 30 cm. For filing, siding, corrugated sheeting, and soffits are used, leaving ventilation gaps. The gaps are covered with fine-mesh mesh to prevent insects and birds from entering the under-roof space.

Long hooks are used to secure the gutters of the drainage system for greater strength and reliability. It is correct to install them on the eaves board or on the rafters. The pitch of the hooks should be equal to the pitch of the rafters. Grooves are cut out in the bars into which the base of the hook is inserted, which is then secured with self-tapping screws on top and at the end of the rafters. If the metal tiles are already installed, short hooks are used that are attached to front board. Next, the cornice strip is attached. To prevent vibration in the wind, the bar must be tightened. The overlap should be 5-10 cm. It is secured with galvanized screws in increments of 30 cm.

Laying the lower valley and internal junctions

In places where slopes join, it is necessary to lay valleys. Under the lower valleys, a continuous flooring is made of boards measuring 15x2.5 cm by 30-40 cm on both sides of the joining line. Waterproofing must be laid on the resulting wooden gutter. The valley is secured with screws in increments of 30 cm and an overlap of 10 cm is given. A porous sealant, preferably self-adhesive, is laid between the metal tiles and the lower valley.

The sheets of metal tiles are light enough, so it will be easy for him to install them on his own.

For the most airtight connection of the coating to walls or protruding elements (chimneys, ventilation holes etc.) an internal apron is installed on the roof slope. It consists of a lower abutment strip, which is applied to the corner of the slope and the wall (or protruding structure). Its lower edge is secured with roofing screws.

Along the upper edge of the plank, a groove is made with a depth of at least 1.5 cm and an upward slope, into which the upper part of the plank is inserted and sealed. It is correct to make a 15-centimeter overlap in the inner apron. The waterproofing at the junction points is removed and rises up the wall by at least 5 cm. It must be heat-resistant. Fits under the bottom of the apron flat sheet for convenient drainage of atmospheric moisture. It is directed to the roof eaves or valley. A border is made along the edge of the tie.

Metal tile fastening technology

A sheet of metal tiles is attached with special roofing screws, and the service life of the entire roof largely depends on the quality of the screws. Roofing screws are galvanized hex screws with a drill bit on the tip and a sealing washer. The seal of high-quality self-tapping screws consists of ethylene-propylene rubber, which does not lose its properties for quite a long time. Ordinary rubber dries out and becomes brittle after three to four years under the influence of temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation.

Correctly fasten the sheet with screws at the bottom of each wave where the metal fits tightly to wooden sheathing. The length of screwing in the screws is at least 2 cm; they must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheathing into the central part of the bar so that the seal hermetically fills the gap between the head of the screw and the sheet of metal.

The recommended length of screws is 28 mm.

1. Three main rules for installing sheets:
2. Laying the roof should begin from the lower left corner of the roof. The sheets are attached from bottom to top so that top sheet
3. overlapped the lower one.

The first sheet should be laid exactly along the eaves line.

Laying the upper valley, external abutment strips and end elements The upper valley is designed to drain water from internal corner

the junction of two slopes. It must be secured to the covering with screws in such a way as not to drill through the center of the lower valley. To do this, a self-expanding seal is placed between this element and the sheet. The upper junction strip is installed in exactly the same way as the lower one, only its upper edge is attached directly to the wall. When adjacent to the end of the wall, a universal seal is used, on the side - a profile seal. protects the roof from wind and loosening of its components, as well as wooden elements and insulation from moisture. Waterproofing is laid on top of the end board, which is secured with an end strip. It is installed from the cornice to the ridge, attached to the end beam with self-tapping screws in increments of 50-60 cm with a 10-centimeter overlap. The end strip must necessarily overlap the upper crest of the wave. This will prevent water from getting under metal tiles. To do this, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

Attaching external corners and ridge strips

In case of roof fractures, it is very important not to interrupt the waterproofing. When breaking, the sheathing boards should be as close to each other as possible. The covering sheet should protrude slightly and cover the fracture. Cornice strip here they are used as a mating element. A universal seal is laid between the tile sheets and the strip, as well as between the ridge and the sheets. It protects against the penetration of precipitation, leaves and insects.

Air flows passing from the eaves to the ridge must exit out through the holes in the profile seal. The waterproofing under the ridge should have a gap of 20 cm along the entire length of the ridge. To strengthen the waterproofing barrier, you can lay additional waterproofing film on a solid wooden sheathing that covers the lower part of the main waterproofing by more than 15 cm. The ridge must be secured in the upper ridge through the wave on both sides into the sheathing with special ridge screws. The ends of the ridge are closed with the plugs included in the kit. The rigidity of the semicircular ridge is enhanced by the overlap of the ribs.

After graduation installation work should be removed from the roof construction garbage. A metal sheet In places of cuts and scratches, be sure to tint. Twice a year, the roof surface is cleaned of leaves, branches and dirt. This will protect the metal from corrosion and extend its service life.

Metal tiles - roofing material made of metal with a sheet profile shape imitating classic clay tiles. It is attached to a wooden frame. For this, special screws are used. Installation is carried out taking into account distinctive characteristics material.

Use dry edged board, treated with an antiseptic, without traces of mold, rot, or fungal infections on the surface. It is mounted horizontally to the rafters and vertical slats. Dimensions of elements: width - 100, thickness - 25-30 mm. The last dimension must be the same for all parts, the maximum deviation is no more than 3 mm. The bottommost board is made 15 mm thicker than the others. To fasten the ridge along the upper ridge section of the roof, a special strip is installed.

Three types of lathing are used:

1. Sparse (step) the most common type, suitable for roofs with a slope of 20°. Optimal pitch between boards equal to length roofing waves. The exception is the distance between the slats of the first and second row. It should be less by the amount of overhang of the sheet - about 5 cm. With this arrangement of the boards, it is easy to fasten the metal tiles, since the places for the screws are immediately visible. The permissible distance from one frame element to another is 30-70 cm. more slope roofs, so less snow accumulates on it, the more you can take a step between the boards.

2. Solid. Suitable for flat roofs with a slope of 14 to 20°. The step between the boards is 2-3 cm.

3. Combined. With this option, step lathing is made on the main part of the roof, and in the area of ​​the ridge connection, chimney, valleys, dormer window, hatch, snow guards - solid.

What do you need to know about self-tapping screws?

For metal tiles, special roofing self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used. When screwed in, they cut through the covering sheet and secure it tightly.

Distinctive features:

• They are made from high-carbon galvanized steel. They do not rust for a long time from frequent contact with rainwater and snow. High-quality roofing screws are marked on the head.
• Self-tapping screws are produced in different colors. This allows you to match them to the shade of the roof; they do not stand out against the background of the coating. For copper tiles, special products made from the same metal are chosen.
• The roofing fastener kit includes rubber or latex caps and press washers. When screwed in, they are flattened, which creates an effective waterproofing in the holes. The penetration of water inside is significantly reduced. Poor quality gaskets (press washers) deteriorate over time and moisture begins to enter the holes.
• The length is at least 2.8 cm and must be 2 cm more than the total thickness of the roofing covering and the layer of waterproofing material.

Scheme and methods of fastening

Self-tapping screws are installed in the hardest place of the wave - the bottom, almost at the base of the next one. If the frame is mounted correctly, then the fasteners fall on the cross boards. You cannot place it at the top of the wave - in this case, the metal tiles bend.

Before starting installation, it is recommended to draw a drawing of the sheathing and roof with the screw locations marked. Too much screw consumption requires the same number of holes. This leads to more moisture getting under the roof during rain, which means the material will deteriorate faster. If you rarely install them, the tiles will vibrate from the wind, create noise and will soon become unusable.

Standard scheme:

• The outermost sheets (ends and overhang) are fixed on each wave. The same consumption is planned in the area of ​​the ridge, valley, and valleys.
• The main part is attached through one wave.
• The metal tiles are connected to each other along the frame in increments of 1 m.
• On additional elements - 3-5 pieces per linear. m.
• The self-tapping screw should be in the center of the sheathing board or no closer than 1-1.2 cm from its edge.

To draw up drawings and calculations required quantity find out how many screws are needed per square meter. Usually this is at least 8-12 screws. For a roof of complex geometric shape, the quantity is increased.

The nuances of installing metal tiles

The tiles are made from the following materials:

• cold-rolled galvanized steel sheets;
• aluminum;
• copper.

The first two have a special protective polymer coating on the surface on one or both sides that prevents exposure to ultraviolet radiation and precipitation.

According to the instructions, devices and devices that cause heating should not be used for cutting and fastening metal tiles. This is associated with the risk of damage to the protective polymer coating. It is correct to turn on the drill and screwdriver at low speeds. When screwing, it is necessary to control the pressure force; it should be moderate. Bending and too much pressure also lead to the destruction of the protective polymer layer and deformation of the material. Insufficient pressure will not fix the product securely.

Installation tools

To properly secure metal tiles with self-tapping screws, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• marker;
• hammer;
• a screwdriver or drill with a low-speed function, it is acceptable to use a screwdriver; power tools are more convenient when powered by a battery rather than mains power;
• tools for cutting metal - jigsaw, metal saw, carbide circular saw.

Place tools in convenient place to prevent them from falling from the roof.

Fastening roofing screws

When installing metal tiles, follow the following rules:

1. Start from the lower right or left corner, and if the roof is hipped, then exactly from the center to create symmetry, finishing the work at the ridge.

2. The overhang above the eaves line is at least 5 cm. It is needed so that rain and melt water flows directly into the drain. In special cases, under difficult conditions, it is permissible to install the first sheet above the eaves board, but it is advisable to avoid this.

3. Screws are screwed in from bottom to top strictly at right angles to the roof surface. Otherwise, the press washer will not close the hole and water will get into it.

4. The self-tapping screw is placed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the stamping line between the crests of the waves.

5. The gap between the screw head and the tile should be at least 0.5-1 mm. When screwed in, the cap is slightly deformed, the rubber gasket is pressed tightly against the surface of the coating. It is impossible to screw the products all the way, otherwise there is a high risk of deformation.

6. The sheets are mounted overlapping the width of one wave. At the joints, self-tapping screws are installed in the rise of the wave, through both layers of material. This is necessary so that there is no gap and water does not penetrate. For this purpose, special short screws are used.

7. The ridge is placed on top of the fixed metal tile, fixed to the board at the top of the sheathing.

If the roof slope is small, then the joints and junctions of the tiles with vertical surfaces and elements during installation are additionally treated with silicone sealant to create a barrier to moisture penetration. If the polymer is damaged during the process protective covering, then this place is painted over anti-corrosion paint on metal.