Correct installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles using special technology from A to Z. Attic roof roof

One of important stages building a house - installing a roof and roofing (roofing work). One of the popular roofing materials is metal tiles. And it’s not surprising, because among its advantages are light weight, ease of installation, large color scheme, strength.

Of course, there are also disadvantages - low rigidity, which makes movement on the roof problematic, and significant waste of material when laid on slopes with complex geometry, poor sound insulation, and heating. All of them can be eliminated; for example, the susceptibility of metal to corrosion can be reduced if metal tiles are installed correctly.


Metal roof installation

The manufacturer has already taken care of protecting the metal tiles by creating a multi-layer roofing structure (see figure).

As you can see, the presence of several layers protective coating suggests that the tiles are made from quality material. Therefore, in order for the roof under such a covering to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to the technology of installing metal tiles.

Basis of choice - parameters of metal tiles:

  • Metal tile thickness. Metal tiles are made from thin sheet steel. The thickness of the metal tile sheet is 0.5-0.7 mm, this is noted in SNiP II-26-76 “Roofs”.

Advice. The thickness of the metal within one sheet may vary. Allowable change +/- 5%.

Please note that low-quality metal bends under strong pressure.

  • Thickness of the zinc layer of metal tiles. This parameter cannot be visually tracked. Therefore, read the passport for the coil of metal from which the sheets are rolled. According to the standard, the thickness of the protective coating should be 275 g/m2. If this requirement is not met, it may lead to the result shown in the photo.
  • The thickness of the metal tile coating depends on the type (type) of the coating.
  • Leaf geometry. Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the sheets are not only cut evenly, but also do not have any bends along the covering side.

The tight fit of the edges is shown in the photo.

If the geometry of the sheet is poor, the result will be noticeable visually. At best, the joint will be unsightly. In the worst case, water will flow under the sheet. And don’t even expect to tighten such an edge with self-tapping screws.

  • Metal tile color. Plays an important role in the case of gradual development. That is, when you need to select a shade. In principle, there are two color coding systems, and if you know your color, you can choose the appropriate one.

Types of metal tile coatings

  • PE (polyester) is applied with a thickness of 20-25 microns. Its disadvantage is its rapid but uniform burnout. And also that the snow does not linger on the smooth surface of the sheet.
  • PEMA (polyester matte). Its layer is 35 microns. It is more resistant to fading and mechanical damage. The rough surface prevents snow from sliding down quickly. Basically, matte coatings, virtually eliminating the need for snow carriers.
  • PU (pural) and PUMA (Pural matt - matte pural). Coating thickness 50 microns. This coating can be used in regions with aggressive environments.
  • PVC (Plastisol). In metal tiles with such a coating, the metal core is the most protected, since the layer is from 100 to 200 microns.

Nuance. The tone will be different. The rate of color fading depends on the metal coating.

Calculation of metal roof tiles

Let us illustrate an example of calculating metal tiles for a gable roof with a slope measuring 8 by 5.

The calculation of the number of sheets of metal tiles required to cover a rectangular slope is calculated as follows - the length of the slope along the ridge divided by the width of the sheet.

Nuance. When making calculations, rely on the working width. That is, taking into account overlaps. The dimensions of the sheet for Monterey metal tiles are shown in the photo.

For example, the length of the slope is 8 m.p. Then you will need 7.27 sheets for work. Round up to the nearest 8 sheets. For two slopes - 15 sheets. Because one sheet is divided in half and used on the second slope.

Nuance. In this case, you will need to start work with half a sheet.

For the convenience of calculating more complex configurations of slopes, you can use the constructor (calculator).

You can make drawings of the roof slopes and draw a diagram for laying metal tiles, i.e. arrangement of sheets.

Nuance. The more complex the slope configuration, the more material waste there will be.

The length of one sheet of metal tile is determined by the height of the slope plus the eaves overhang (about 5 cm). Please note that the longer the sheet length, the less material will go to overlap. But it is difficult to work with a long sheet, and transporting metal sheets big size it's a costly business. Therefore, it is recommended to break a sheet more than 6 m long into parts. To do this correctly, you need to adjust the resulting length by the amount of overlap. The overlap should be at least 0.15 m for slopes with an inclination angle of more than 25° and 0.2 m for smaller angles. For our example. 5 m.p. divide in half - we will need 1 sheet 2.5 m long, and the second 2.65.

At the same time, the manufacturing technology of metal tiles is such that there are impossible dimensions. Each manufacturer has their own and depends on the equipment used.

Then for the entire roof you need to buy 15 sheets of 2.5 m each and 15 sheets of 2.65 m each.

Calculation of the number of additional elements for metal tiles.

The components include a ridge strip, end and cornice strips, a snow retainer, internal and external valleys.

Calculating additional elements is simple - the total length of the surface to be covered is divided by 1.9 m.p. – (2 m. standard length of the strip, minus an overlap of 0.1 m). For the lower valley divided by 1.7. The overlap is 0.3 m.

For our gable roof we need 5 ridge strips (the length of the slope along the ridge is 8 m.); 9 cornice strips ((8+8)/1.9); 11 end. Due to the design of the roof, we do not need a valley.

Special strips. These are custom-made additional elements according to your size.

Self-tapping screws. Their consumption is 7-8 pcs. per sq.m. metal tiles and 3 pcs. by 1 m.p. additional element. The screws should be with a drill, this will simplify installation, and preferably painted in the color of the sheet. This will give the coating a more finished look.

We will need 768 pcs. for sheets and 3x(5+9+11) = 834 pcs. They are usually sold in packs of 250 pieces. Naturally, it is better to take it with a reserve.

Sealing tape for metal tiles. It is recommended to install it under the ridge strip.

The film is equal to the total area of ​​the slopes minus the overlap allowances. For example, a roll of film usually measures 1.5 by 50 m. = 75 sq.m. The working area of ​​the film is about 65 square meters.

The insulation under the metal tiles is also equal to the total area of ​​the slopes.

The following tools will be useful: a screwdriver, a hammer, a mallet, a tape measure, a marker, a level, a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

Advice. Cutting a sheet of metal tile with a grinder is strictly prohibited. When heated, the coating at the cut site is destroyed and the sheet begins to rust. In addition, sparks can damage the paint throughout the entire sheet.

How to store metal tiles

If you purchased the material before you built the rafter system, you need to know how to properly store metal tiles (especially in winter). The sheets must be laid on a flat area, preferably on a pallet. In addition, it is important to protect the metal from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and provide ventilation. If the sheets will be stored for more than a month, they need to be laid as shown in the photo.

Additional strips are also stored in a lying position.

1. Construction of a rafter system for metal tiles

Installation of metal tiles begins at the stage of lathing installation. It is important to initially secure the sheathing boards at the required distance. Namely, the distance between the first and second boards is 300 mm, then 350 mm, 350 mm is the distance from one bend of the sheet to the next. In professional language, the distance is called a tile.

Advice. At the point where the chimney exits, in the valley, near the windows, you need to make a continuous sheathing.

2. Checking the size of the slope

The main thing is that the roof slopes are smooth and flat.

3. Attaching the eaves strip for metal tiles

The eaves board directs water flowing from the roof into the drainage system.

Nuance. Long gutter brackets need to be installed on the eaves board. drainage system. Short ones can be mounted after completion roofing works.

4. Laying a hydrobarrier film under metal tiles

To prevent the attic from getting wet in case of sudden rain, and also to further protect the insulation from getting wet, a water barrier film is used.

The waterproofing film under the metal tiles is laid on the rafter system in accordance with the description, which contains installation instructions. To avoid leakage, it is necessary to ensure a film overlap of at least 10 cm. For sloping slopes, a minimum of 25 cm. For hip roofs up to 50 cm (in the roof ridges). The film is secured with a construction stapler.

Advice. The film is spread parallel to the end if the roof slope is more than 25°. And parallel to the ridge, if less. In this case, you need to maintain a sag of 1-2 cm along the edge of the rafter leg.

At the exit points of the chimney, antenna, etc. you need to extend the film 4-5 cm onto these elements.

5. Installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles

The counter grille is needed to provide a ventilation gap between the film and the metal tile sheet. Otherwise, at the junction of the film and the metal, it will quickly lose its properties.

For installation, a rail with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 135 cm is used.

Nuance. When using a high-permeability superdiffusion membrane, a counter-lattice is not needed.

6. Installation of the lower valley

A valley for metal tiles is installed if the roof configuration requires it.

Nuance. It is better to install the lower valley not with screws, but with a clamp. This way it will maintain its integrity, which will reduce the likelihood of leaking. You can make your own kleimer from scrap metal.

7. Installation of the first sheet of metal tiles

To avoid deformation, the sheet is lifted onto the roof using runners (see photo).

Nuance. It is better not to install sheets in strong winds. Loose sheets may bend.

Installation is carried out from right to left, so that each subsequent sheet covers the groove for water drainage on the previous one.

The bottom row of sheets must be mounted so that the sheet hangs over the edge of the rafter system by 50 mm. (this is why the distance between the first and second sheathing boards should be 300 mm, not 350). This is necessary to ensure ventilation and ease of water drainage.

Methods for installing metal tiles are shown in the diagram

The technology for laying metal tiles involves aligning the first sheet along the end of the slope and the eaves. If everything is correct, the sheet is attached to the top using one self-tapping screw. The second sheet is installed with the same requirements and secured to the first sheet. After all the rows are aligned along the eaves overhang, the sheets are firmly attached to the sheathing.

Adviсe:

  • You need to move around while performing roofing work. Therefore, it is better to wear shoes with soft soles and step only at the bottom of the wave.
  • If during the installation process you need to cut the sheet, it is better to paint the cut area with special paint.
  • After installing the sheet, you need to remove the protective film from it (if any). Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it will crumble and have an ugly appearance. In addition, it will be much more difficult to remove.

8. Fastening metal tiles

Metal tiles are fastened with special self-tapping screws. The presence of a rubber seal allows you to tighten the screw as tightly as possible without deforming the sheet itself.

The scheme for fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws is through one wave.

Nuance. Along the length of the end, a self-tapping screw is attached to each tile.

Many people advise mounting the self-tapping screw down the wave. It is not right. Because water flows along the tile gutter, which means that the slightest violation during installation is fraught with the appearance of rust.

The photo below shows that the screw needs to be moved a little to the right.

It is also important to tighten the screw correctly. The fastening rules are shown in the figure.

9. Installation of additional elements

9.1 Installation of valley metal tiles. Depending on the roof structure, an upper valley is installed. When attaching it, try to tighten the screws so that they do not get on the lower screws. If clamps were used, this requirement is omitted.

9.2 Installation of a wind strip on a metal tile. Regardless of the roof configuration, an end (wind) strip must be installed. The overlap of the planks is 10-15 cm. They are fastened with long self-tapping screws. At the rate of 1 self-tapping screw per 1 m.p. planks. Wind bar laid on top of a sheet of tiles and fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides.

9.3 Installation of the ridge strip of metal tiles depends on its configuration. When installing a round ridge strip, you need to close the ends with special plugs.

The broken strip fits more tightly to the sheets, so a plug is not needed.

You can protect the ridge of metal tiles from snow and moisture by laying a special ridge sealing tape (ridge seal).

9.4 Next, we install aprons (junction strips) for the metal tiles near the pipes or the junction strip of the slope to the wall. To do this, the wall needs to be grooved 1-1.5 cm. Insert a strip into the resulting strip, and treat the installation site with sealant. It should be noted that the sealant will deteriorate. Therefore, the junction needs to be inspected from time to time and sealed in a new way.

Nuance. It is prohibited to insert the abutment strip into the masonry joint; this may compromise the integrity of the wall. And then the manufacture of a reliable structure at the junction will turn into sabotage.

9.5 Installation of snow guards on metal tiles. Lastly, we install snow retention strips on the sheet of metal tiles. They are simply necessary if the metal tiles are covered with polyester.

Snow guards for metal roofs may have the appearance shown in the photo.

Snow guards are often reinforced with an additional bar.

Its cost is low, and the strength of the snow holder increases significantly.

The choice of plank depends on the preferences of the owner, as well as on the intensity of snowfall and the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

How to install snow guards on metal tiles?

The snow retainer bar is located parallel to the cornice in one row or two rows, in a checkerboard pattern.

The final roofing pie is shown in the photo

10. Roof insulation, installation of vapor barrier film and interior decoration

Installation of metal tiles - video instructions

Mistakes when installing metal tiles

In conclusion, I would like to briefly remind you of the most common mistakes in installing metal tiles:

  • an uneven slope will result in a lumpy leaf;
  • Incorrectly cut sheets can quickly rust. Therefore, do not use an angle grinder;
  • incorrectly screwed screws lead to deformation of the sheet;
  • you need to use only high-quality self-tapping screws with a special rubber seal;
  • saving on high-quality seals leads to snow being blown into the roofing pie or moisture getting in;
  • It is better to inspect the sheet several times for scratches and paint it with special paint in time, rather than then admire the rusty streaks;
  • use special (custom-made) additional elements if the standard ones do not completely cover the openings. Their production will cost you less than the subsequent replacement of an entire assembly or roofing materials;
  • do not buy long sheets of metal tiles. Metal has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that the sheet will play and over time the screws in it will become loose. Therefore, cut the sheet into several parts;
  • on the other hand, the more joints, the greater the likelihood of leakage. Therefore, stick to the golden mean;
  • maintain the correct amount of overlap.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of metal tiles can be done independently. By adhering to certain rules, laying metal tiles on the roof will be successful and in a short time.

Metal tiles are one of the most popular roofing materials among owners of country houses. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.

What tools and materials will you need?

  • Screwdriver and hammer;
  • Electric hacksaws and scissors;
  • Long staff and marker.

An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.

You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.

From the materials you will need to prepare:

  • Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
  • Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
  • Lathing board 25x100 mm;
  • 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
  • Waterproofing membrane;
  • Mineral wool;
  • Consumables.

The cross-section of lumber must be maintained. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.

In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various types of additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.


Additional elements for metal tiles

How much does a metal roofing cost?

The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:

  1. Type of polymer coating material;
  2. Difficulty in roof configuration;
  3. Type of insulation used;
  4. Roof size.

On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.

Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles

Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time, even if correct plating waterproofing agent.

Preparatory work

The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother they will be structural elements boxes at home, the less effort you will have to spend on adjustments in the future rafter legs. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months.

The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.

Material measurements

  1. In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
  2. First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of ​​the slopes is determined; Determine where the chimney will be located,, ventilation holes skylights

etc.

In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.

Lumber calculation After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the required lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of ​​the roof. Most often it is arranged under metal tiles gable roof

with a slope of 30–35 degrees.

The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.

The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:

  • Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
  • Add one to the result and round up.

The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.

Assembling the rafter system

The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:

  1. Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
  2. Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at the appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.

Roof frame construction

On large and high roofs, ridge beams are often used. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house frame.

Hydro- and thermal insulation device

Sometimes a cold roof is made from metal tiles. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves its performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side.


They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.

Waterproofing scheme

The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.

Roof sheathing It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of adverse weather factors. The lathing is installed using a pole and.

The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way, you can assemble a reliable base for metal tile sheets.

How to correctly calculate metal tiles

After assembling the sheathing, you can install it yourself roofing sheets. But of course, you should first do exact calculation the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:

  • Calculate the area of ​​each slope;
  • Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
  • Add up the results obtained.

How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys

The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before the sheets are installed. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.


Installation cornice strip

Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys.

  • Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
  • The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
  • Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;

Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.

Choosing metal tiles

  1. There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
  2. Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable; IN middle lane
  3. Russian roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;

The warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.

Installation of sheets So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged.

  1. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
  2. The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
  3. Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;

The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.

After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. In this case, they perform mainly a purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.

At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.

Attic roof roof

Construction of the rafter system mansard roof done like this:

  1. Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
  2. The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
  3. Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
  4. The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.

Some subtleties of installing metal tiles

The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:

  1. The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
  2. All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.

We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney


Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles

The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:

  1. Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15–20 cm over the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself around the entire perimeter.
  2. After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.

Subtleties of installing curtain rods

The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and unnecessary repairs will have to be made. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of valleys: features

The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).

Fastening sheets to roof breaks


Installation of roof breaks

As already mentioned, on attic sloping roofs, metal tiles are laid on the break with an overhang. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.

Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that top part it extended at least 35 cm onto the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower slope. The sheathing under it should also be solid.

Installation of snow guards

This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:

  1. Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
  2. You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
  3. The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.

Installation of lightning protection


Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof

This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:

  1. Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
  2. Down conductor (circular wire);
  3. Ground electrode from metal strip thickness of at least 150 mm.

The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.

Safety precautions

When installing metal tile sheets, observe the following safety rules:

  1. Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
  2. Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
  3. To move around long slopes use special stairs;
  4. People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.

Construction is not a cheap industry. And, as you know, there is never too much money, so you can save on labor, i.e. do everything yourself.

Before starting installation work, you should:

  • firstly, determine the amount of financial costs;
  • secondly, select the design of the future roof;
  • thirdly, carefully study the technological process.

In this article

How much does it cost to cover a roof?

Whatever the design of the roof, its cost is made up of four items:

  • frame;
  • insulators;
  • top roofing material;
  • wages of workers (in our case this cost item is absent).

The first and easiest way to determine the cost of your roof is to call local companies and ask the manager about the prices for installing a metal roof, after first calculating the area of ​​your roof. Many employees will be happy to provide approximate prices. The second option (calculate everything yourself) is more difficult, but no less accurate and reliable.

Volume calculation

Frame – wooden structure, consisting of main and auxiliary fragments. The first are the mauerlat, rafters, sheathing; the second - tightening, racks, struts. Together they make up the roof truss system.

There is a good online calculator on the Internet with which you can calculate the volume of lumber, effective loads, see the rafter layout diagram, etc.


But there is one nuance - the calculation is carried out not for all types of roofs, but for single-pitched, gable, mansard (including sloping roofs) and hip ones. That is, if you have more than four slopes, then you will have to count manually. After we have determined the number of boards and timber, we select insulating materials for the metal roof.

Insulating materials

The following insulators will be required for roofing work: steam-waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Metal tiles retain the bulk of atmospheric moisture, but vapors contained in the outside air still get inside. To protect the underlying structural layers, steam and waterproofing is used. The difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing is that the first is aimed at passing vapors from inside the room to the outside, and the second is aimed at preventing external moisture from penetrating into the roof structure. Film vapor and waterproofing insulators combine the functions of both layers and are either perforated or non-perforated. On the packaging of such roll material, after the name, a number is indicated; it indicates the weight of 1 m2 of film.

In addition to common film insulations, builders also use special polyethylene materials, With inside reinforced aluminum foil. Such films are rarely used for residential buildings; they are usually laid during the construction of baths, saunas, and swimming pools.

The best sellers on the moisture-proof film market can be considered Isopsan, KLØBER, TechnoNIKOL, DUPONT, but there are also cheaper analogues.

Enclosing material

As mentioned above, the main protective function carries the top roofing layer - metal tiles, which are sheets of thin sheet steel (galvanized), aluminum or copper, coated polymer layer and cold deformed. Visually, metal tiles are very similar to ordinary tiles, but they weigh much less - 5 kg/m2, and this is not its only advantage.

We can also name the tangible advantages of a roof under metal tiles:

  • durability (15 – 20 years);
  • aesthetic appearance;
  • ease of installation and repair during operation.

Beauty, of course, is important, but quality characteristics play a decisive role. It is worth paying attention to:

  • a steel base containing the necessary alloying elements that improve the strength and rolling properties of the metal;
  • class and type of protective coating;
  • class and type of protective and decorative polymer coating.

Optimal thickness steel sheet from 0.45 to 0.5 mm. With a smaller thickness, difficulties arise in installing a roof made of metal tiles: deflections, breaks and other deformations. The protective base of the metal coating in the production of metal tiles is:

  • zinc;
  • zinc-aluminum;
  • aluminum-zinc;
  • aluminum-silicon;
  • iron-zinc.

Zinc consumption during production is 225-275 g/m2.

It is used as a protective and decorative layer in the production of metal tiles. the following types coatings:

  • polyester (PE);
  • polyurethane (Pural);
  • polyvinylidene fluoride;
  • acrylate;
  • plastisol.

For operation in an urban atmosphere (except for cases where factories emitting into the atmosphere are located nearby). environment aggressive substances) it is optimal to cover with polyester with a thickness of 25 to 30 microns. The above coatings “in their pure form” are not used. Foreign and domestic companies apply complex compositions of copolymers with various additives. The recipe for such coatings is kept in the strictest confidence.

In addition to the metal tiles themselves, additional elements will be required for the installation of the roof: valleys, ridge caps, strips of external and internal corners, ridge and connecting strips, seam strips; as well as fasteners: studs, self-tapping screws, nails, etc.


After purchasing all necessary materials Let's start construction.

Metal roofing installation technology

DIY roofing tool

To make a roof with your own hands you will need the following tools:

  • ladder;
  • metal scissors;
  • screwdriver and electric drill;
  • long rail;
  • mounting tape;
  • hammer;
  • marker;
  • level and tape measure (preferably metal);
  • low hardness brush;
  • mallet with rubber head;
  • hand-held circular saw.

Remember: under no circumstances should metal tiles be cut with a grinder! This can lead to damage to the polymer protective coating, after which corrosion of the base metal will begin to form during operation.

Step-by-step instructions for installation work

The beginning of all work is the installation of the rafter system, carried out in several stages. Installation instructions for both cold and warm roof made of metal tiles can be included in the following installation scheme:

Step 1. Waterproofing the walls

The first step is to waterproof the walls. This can be done using ordinary roofing felt. Timber is laid on the walls from pediment to pediment along the entire length. Afterwards, we check the horizontality of the structures with a level and control the pitch of laying the timber. The Mauerlat is secured with anchor bolts into pre-drilled vertical holes in the beams. Later they begin to install rafter legs to it.

Step 2. Installation of purlins

Installation of purlins helps to simplify the work, since it becomes possible to fasten each pair of rafters separately. The purlin is placed in the highest positions of the front walls and secured in the designed position with anchors or steel corners. The ends of the purlins are also waterproofed.

Step 3. Attaching the rafters

Before you begin attaching the rafters to the already assembled frame elements, you should lay out all the rafter boards in the strict sequence of their further installation. We must label all elements to avoid confusion.

We trim the rafter legs and precisely adjust all the gaps and angles. In the upper section, the rafters are connected with overlays. Each joint must have a minimum of 5 nails. First, the outer rafter sections are installed, and then those between them, distributing them along the entire length of the house. At the bottom of the rafters, tie downs are installed. All structures must be verified during installation.

Step 4. Installation work

After installation, alignment and final fastening of the rafter system, we begin roofing installation work. In order for the roof to serve for a long time and the metal tiles to reliably protect from precipitation, the installation of all fragments is carried out in a strict technological sequence, which includes the following steps:

  • installation of counter rails;
  • laying waterproofing;
  • fastening elements of vertical sheathing;
  • installation of the initial bars of the horizontal sheathing;
  • additional lathing;
  • installation of wind boards;
  • installation of brackets for drainage gutters;
  • cornice strips;
  • installation of metal tiles;
  • roof ridge and its seal;
  • thermal insulation works;
  • vapor barrier;
  • attic filing (for attic roofing).

If the roof is cold, then the last three stages are not taken into account.

Metal tiles are suitable for roofs with slopes of at least 14°. The pitch of the transverse wave of metal tiles directly affects the spacing of the sheathing battens. So, with a transverse wave with a range of 300, 350 and 400 mm, the sheathing pitch will be 300, 350 and 400 mm, respectively. The distance between the lowest lath of the sheathing and the one next to it is respectively 230, 280 and 330 mm. The fragments of the sheathing themselves must be subjected to antiseptic treatment.

Continuous sheathing is installed in the places of chimney passages, at the location of the valleys. Before you begin fastening the metal tiles, be sure to secure the lower valley strips along the continuous sheathing. The overlap of one part onto another is about 100-150 mm. The tiles are installed from bottom to top. The joining areas of the metal tile sheets are additionally covered with decorative inserts - the upper valley strips.

Remember: junction nodes are the most vulnerable places, so their arrangement is approached with special attention. They use sealants for external work, seals, and an additional layer of waterproofing.


Another extremely important aspect when installing a metal tile roof yourself is fasteners. Purchase a set of fasteners and metal tiles together from the supplier, otherwise you may lose your warranty rights to the purchased product.

Safety precautions

Construction and installation works – dangerous look activities. Perform all sawing, cutting, drilling, and fastening operations in protective clothing, gloves, and protective masks or goggles. When working for a long time, your hands become sweaty, tools can slip out, damage your fingers and cause infection. Wearing masks and goggles will help protect your eyes from metal dust and your respiratory tract from micro-pellets of insulation. For which rolled mineral wool materials are used.

Compliance with safety rules is the key to your health.

Did you know that even the simplest types of metal tiles can give the roof of your home an elite and modern look? After all, people who come to visit often turn their attention to her. So why not get a luxurious roof for such a low price? And if this is your plan for the near future, then in this article you can read how to lay a metal roof with your own hands step by step, its types, positive and negative sides, and much more.

Types of metal tiles and their protective coatings

When corrosion occurs on metal tiles, developers often blame manufacturers for the poor quality of the metal, but it is worth understanding that this sheet material manufactured to standards that are subject to constant inspection by construction commissions. Therefore, the problem most likely lies elsewhere - in the protective coating. It can last either one year or a full service life.

Therefore, if you are concerned about the reliability of your roof, then you should think about purchasing materials that will more reliably protect your roofing. Today on construction market you can find the following products:

  • Polyester . This material is universal, because it is suitable for almost all climate zones and can withstand a very wide range of temperatures. Maximum corrosion resistance. The price for different polyester manufacturers differs, but remains in average values. When spraying yourself, it is worth considering that the layer must be at least 25 microns
  • Matte polyester . As the name implies, this is some kind of offshoot from the standard. Its thickness is usually 35 microns. After spraying, the painted element acquires a richer appearance, which results in increased aesthetic values. Matte painting can imitate natural materials. Corrosion resistance is at an average level, which is also a pretty good indicator. This material can withstand heat well (up to +120C o), but does not tolerate low temperatures (down to -10C o). Therefore, in northern latitudes apply matte polyester not advisable

Almost 100% corrosion protection of roofing material against corrosion can be achieved by spraying a protective layer of 50 microns. Thanks to this thickness, you can also get rid of the noise of raindrops and hail. A wide temperature range (from +150C o to -90C o) will allow you to use this product anywhere. Ultraviolet rays do not affect the performance of the protective coating in any way, so if you want to protect your roof for a long time, then you should choose this thickness for spraying.

  • Pastizol . It is quite outdated material. It is mainly used in highly corrosive environments. The service life of such a protective layer is at least 20 years, has a rich appearance, which sets excellent competition modern coatings. Over time, direct sunlight does not affect the functionality and color of the protection. Relative cheapness makes this material accessible to any developer
  • Granite chips . Stone as protection - bold idea. It is not possible to prepare such a protective coating on your own, but in the store you can find a fairly wide range of such products. They are usually based on polyurethane and granite chips in a ratio of 1 to 1, and of course other binders. Positive aspects of this product is: colossal resistance to physical damage, high protection from solar radiation, tolerates large temperature changes. However, not bad protection, but has a rather high price
  • The most ancient and time-tested protection is the coating of the base metal aluminum and zinc . It is believed that a coating of 20 microns is more than enough, however, there is no arguing with that average term The life of such parts is 25 years. One of the important positive qualities is low cost

Before you immediately purchase the ones you like roofing coverings Ask the seller what type of polymers are used as a protective coating. If the answer suits you, then you can lay your roof with the purchased material with peace of mind. Otherwise, they will push you a low-quality product, which over time will only become a reason for you to repair it.

IMPORTANT: If sound insulation is of particular importance to you, then you should apply a polyurethane coating, but if your home has two floors (a residential floor and a non-residential attic), then you should skip this option, because then the price of the roof will be 30-40% cheaper .

Positive and negative qualities of metal roofing

Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses, so in order not to make mistakes, I have prepared for you small lists describing the properties of metal tiles.

And I'll start with the positive:

  • The economic benefits in relation to other types of roofing coverings are obvious. The fact is that the material being laid has a low mass, therefore, the device complex structures no rafter system is required, which entails savings on materials, installation work. Despite being the same cheapness, the material has a fairly long service life - 50 years
  • As mentioned above, metal tiles are a relatively lightweight roofing material. Its load on the base is in the range of 3.6-5.2 kg/1m2. The use of protective layers of polyurethane will only reduce this figure, but zinc and aluminum will increase it by a whole kilogram. Never take load indicators on the Internet. This is determined individually from each seller, because each manufacturer can produce sheets containing different metal thicknesses (from 0.3 to 1.2 mm)
  • High corrosion resistance. If you want to observe the corrosion process on a newly laid roof, you will have to wait a little over 25 years. In addition, the roof is reliably protected from ultraviolet rays, moisture, and sudden temperature changes
  • Knowledge from physics lessons that metal is not a flammable material will be quite sufficient to declare metal tiles fireproof. The tiles are ideal as a fire-resistant material, which makes them head and shoulders above the same ECO roofs made of straw or other roofs using combustible materials
  • Attractive appearance. A metal roof once became an indicator of the owner's status, and this trend continues to this day. Most likely, this is due to the fact that metal is very often used on complex roofs, and they, in turn, are used only in large houses.

Due to its ease of installation, metal roofing can easily be laid with your own hands; by the way, you will learn about this process below.

After looking at everything positive traits material, one might assume that such a product has no negative aspects, but this is still not the case. And these are the sides:

  • If you do not purchase soundproofing material, you may suffer from the noise of falling drops or hail during rain. If your building is two-story or has an attic, which you are not going to equip for living quarters, then you can still tolerate this if you are on the ground floor, otherwise such annoying noise will definitely force you to take the necessary measures
  • If you make incorrect calculations, you can end up in an awkward situation when material is needed, but it is no longer available. Often this difficulty is encountered when purchasing metal tiles cut to size. It is worth understanding that a complex roof is not a simple system, and, therefore, there will be times when the cut-off part of the material is no longer suitable. As a conclusion, I can say that the installation of metal tiles generates a large amount of waste, which is a negative side
  • The smooth surface of the roof during operation can play a cruel joke on you. The fact is that when there is a large amount of precipitation in winter period time, a situation may arise when they begin to move. As a rule, such a process does not bring anything good. After all, when snow melts from the roof of a building, people passing under it at that moment may suffer. There is a solution to this problem - the installation of snow holders and various types of fences, but this will entail additional costs, again a minus

Most developers do not strive to make an intricate structure out of the roof, quite simple, but of high quality, which is why they are attracted to metal tiles, because everyone can afford to buy such material, and the installation of all structures from scratch can be carried out in the shortest period of time, and this is what I will consider in the following chapters.

Calculation of material requirements

Calculating the materials required to create a good roof can be done in just 30 minutes using a pen and a piece of paper, but this is a rather frivolous task if you do not know the technological process of laying metal tiles. In this case, it is best to trust the professionals.

The calculation process begins with measuring the length of the slopes from the ridge to the very bottom. Don't forget to take into account a small overlap, which is usually 10-15cm. For this simple manipulation you will need to subtract 10cm from each sheet. As for the vertical joints, here the overlap will be already 15 cm, but the technique for determining the missing material is exactly the same. The number of rows is determined by dividing the values, where the first will be the long roof, and the second will be the working area of ​​the sheet (taking into account an overlap of 15 cm).

Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable; modern world Thanks to computers, calculating the exact number of sheets is not difficult; the error is only a couple of centimeters. This is a negligible value when compared with mental calculations.

The length of this roofing covering can reach 12 meters, which in most cases allows you to completely cover the slope with one sheet. If this is possible for you, then you will not only avoid the generation of waste, but also benefit from roof waterproofing, because the fewer joints, the less likely it is for moisture to flow into them.

For device truss structure and its elements, you will need some additional calculations and costs for their acquisition. Please note that in addition to this, you will need to equip your roof with the necessary fences, drains around the perimeter, snow holders, etc.

As you can see, selecting the required amount of material for installing a metal roof can be done with your own hands, but this is only if you have certain knowledge. When knowledge is not enough, turn to specialists.

Installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

You've probably heard that excessive moisture content in the air can have a detrimental effect on the service life of natural materials, for example, wood. Therefore, in the process of laying any roofing material, you must first take care of providing some protection.

The work on installing water drainage layers will not take much time and money and will increase the service life of the entire roof by several decades. So what should you do about it?

  1. Laying a waterproofing layer. This process is most convenient to carry out when you are at the top. In this case - on a skate. It is from there that rolls of waterproofing protection are rolled out. You must understand that waterproofing should not have many holes, so it is best to attach it to a building duct tape. Some developers even manage to use double-sided tape, but this is a dubious alternative. The sagging of the material at the cornice should be about 30 centimeters
  2. Flooring of insulation slabs. Of course, you can use non-tile material, but in general, I think the job is clear. With this work, I hope there will be no problems, and where will they come from? The only snag may be when you cannot fit the insulation board between the rafters. To do this, you will have to cut it into the necessary parts (divide by 5 centimeters more, so that during installation it can remain in place without fastening devices)
  3. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. If you decide to save money on this particular item, then you will make the stupidest mistake. Vapor barrier materials needed to remove moisture from insulation layers. Don't ask how she can get in there. Moisture has three states of aggregation and in any case it will find a way through one of them. It is worth noting that even a low water content in insulation boards will negate all its functional qualities. The fastening elements, as a rule, are staplers

In construction, there is a term that brings all these layers together - roofing pie. The construction of this cake should be done in the absence of a strong wind, because the work is carried out with the material large area, and it can simply fly away or tear off from the base with a sharp gust of air.

IMPORTANT: As a rule, waterproofing films are produced with directional sides. This means that installation can only be done on a certain side. After all, the main task of such a layer is to protect the insulation from moisture and, if necessary, remove it from the slabs.

Covering a roof with metal tiles is not difficult, the main thing is to create the necessary conditions for this - high-quality sheathing.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing for metal tiles

In almost any field of work, everything can be done using your own strength, the main thing is practice and some knowledge. In the next paragraph, I will describe to you step-by-step instructions on how to build a metal roof, but before that you should pay attention to another important installation process - lathing.

Installation of any element requires a fairly reliable foundation. For roofing material it is sheathing. It usually consists of small blocks of wood 5x5cm. Mounted vertically to the rafters. It is worth paying attention to the device ventilation ducts between the roofing material and waterproofing layer. 3x10cm boards are used as alternative materials: they are fastened in 0.6m increments across the rafters. The eaves overhang is equipped with slightly thicker boards, for example, 5x10cm. This is due to the greater load. Concerning opposite side, i.e. ridge, then it is upholstered with two of the same elements without a gap.

In some documents you can find certain instructions that state that installing a cornice strip is a mandatory job. It provides decent resistance to strong gusts of wind and excessive moisture on the sheathing. Galvanized nails are used as fastening elements. Their arrangement has a checkerboard appearance, and the distance between them is 30 cm. By the way, just before starting work on constructing such a board, it is worth impregnating it with special solutions to protect it from rotting and drying it thoroughly.

There are two types of sheathing:

  • Discharged
  • Solid

The first of them is arranged along the entire perimeter of the plane. The elements of such sheathing have a certain step that should be followed. The second type looks like a solid shield. It is installed, as a rule, in places of increased loads and joining of elements, for example, valleys, places around chimneys, joints, eaves overhangs etc. Wood screws or self-tapping screws are often used as fastening elements.

A roof structure made of metal tiles can have the following types:

  • Single-pitch
  • Gable
  • hip
  • Broken and others

As you may have guessed, this roofing material allows you to use absolutely any roofing structure, with the possible exception of a dome-shaped one. This is a good fact for manufacturers, because the relative cheapness and wide area applications make this material so popular among developers of private houses.

When everything is explained, you can answer the main question: “how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles?”

DIY metal roof

Any self-respecting man will want to get a good apartment or build his own own house. If you follow the second path and do everything on our own, then you should definitely absorb more information on how to re-roof with metal tiles yourself. This is exactly what will be discussed in this paragraph.

Working on your own brings moral pleasure, which then develops into some pride in the result. By the way, you can see how to install a metal tile roof with your own hands in the video at the bottom of the article.

Do-it-yourself roofing with metal tiles, step-by-step instructions:

  1. Purchase of material. At this stage preliminary calculations The required quantity of roofing product is purchased. It is worth choosing qualitatively, asking the seller as much as possible. Pay special attention to the coating of the material, find out what polymers it is made of protective layer and draw appropriate conclusions
  2. Upon delivery of the product to the site, it is worth carefully inspecting it for mechanical damage. After this, move the storage location closer to the installation site
  3. Next, we proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself on the prepared base. Before installation, remove the special protective film from the surface of the leaf product. The location of the first sheet will be the edge of the cornice. Its location should have a small overlap of 5-6 cm. Screws will act as fastening elements. They spin right through the metal in massive board, going along the perimeter. All measuring work carried out using a construction tape measure
  4. The next sheet of roofing material is laid a little higher with an overlap of at least 5 cm and secured. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in from different sides, two pieces each. We arrange two more sheets and then check the evenness of the work done
  5. Further, all work moves in an already understandable direction. Arrangement of blocks of 2-4 sheets and their subsequent calibration. Do not forget that the overlap should be at least 5cm
  6. After laying all the sheets on a plane, end strips are installed in order to protect the newly created roof from rain and wind. They are fastened to the rafters or sheathing using long self-tapping screws. By the way, there are not only wooden end boards, but also PVC products. Their advantage is that they are not subject to corrosion and have higher protection of wood from moisture
  7. Roof ridge installation. This element allows you to avoid aligning joints top sheets material, they will hide under it. The ridge is fastened on both sides with self-tapping screws. In the resulting space, it is worth paying special attention to the waterproofing of materials, the fact is that this is where the greatest amount of moisture will accumulate
  8. The final work is finishing the chimney

That's all, the work on installing the roofing material can be said to be completed.

For convenience, all measurements and cutting of metal tiles are best done on the ground.

You should cover your roof with metal tiles yourself if you want to not only save money, but also do this work For the sake of my own pride, I hope the step-by-step instructions I wrote will help you achieve your plans.

As a conclusion, I can say that work done on your own is an activity worthy of praise, but you should not assume that without certain skills you can create a high-quality and reliable roof. Contact professionals in your field if you find it difficult to carry out one or another stage.

If the text is not enough for you or you want to consolidate what you have read, then here are a few videos on the topic “how to roof a roof with metal tiles with your own hands”

Metal tiles are a modern roofing material that successfully combines an attractive appearance ceramic tiles with light weight and inexpensive price metal coatings. Its advantages include good performance, corrosion resistance and long service life. It is important that, knowing the features of this material and having basic construction skills, you can easily cover the roof with metal tiles on your own. Installing metal tiles with your own hands is reminiscent of the creation process multi-layer cake, the components of which improve and complement each other. In this article, we will step by step describe a proven “recipe” that creates a reliable, high-quality roof made of metal profiles.

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a proven way to quickly and inexpensively cover the roof of a garage, garden or small residential building. This roofing covering is one of the types of metal profiles that has a wavy relief that resembles the shape of traditional tiles. Metal tiles are made of galvanized steel, which is coated during the production process. polymer coating

  • from pural, plastisol or polyester. A roof made from this material has the following advantages:
  • A light weight. One square meter of metal roofing weighs 3.5-4.5 kg, which allows you to increase the pitch between the elements of the rafter frame, reducing the cost of constructing the roof.
  • Mechanical strength. A roof made of this material has high strength and load-bearing capacity, so it can easily withstand snow and wind loads, even if the pitch between the rafters is quite large.
  • Corrosion resistance. A roof made of metal profiles is not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, because it is reliably protected by a layer of zinc and a polymer coating. Long service life. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof lasts more than 20 years, thanks to high quality

metal and strength of polymer protection.

Important! Knowing how to cover a roof with metal tiles yourself, you can save a lot of money, because installing a roof covering costs 50-70% of the cost of purchasing materials.

Roofing pie composition Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles involves creating a multi-layer roofing pie

  1. , which consists of a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and the actual coating itself.
  2. In order for a roof made of metal profiles to last a long time, it is worth choosing the right structural components that match each other and following the rules prescribed by the installation instructions. The roofing pie for metal tiles consists of the following parts:
  3. Thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is installed between the rafters of the frame, so the step between them must correspond to the width of the insulation.
  4. Waterproofing. Waterproofing must be laid over the rafters so that it protects the wooden frame elements from condensation or atmospheric moisture.
  5. Lathing. This element of the rafter frame is used to distribute the weight of the roofing material. Roofing material must be laid on the sheathing. The pitch between its slats is chosen in accordance with the weight of the coating and the angle of inclination of the slope.
  6. Roofing material. Do-it-yourself metal tiles are laid on the sheathing. For fixation, special roofing screws are used.

Please note that there are 2 types of metal roofing – warm and cold. A cold roof differs from a warm roof in the absence of a thermal insulation layer and vapor barrier in the roofing pie. This design is cheaper, but can only be used in cases where the attic or second floor is not heated.

Rafter frame and sheathing

Before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to assemble the rafter frame. The frame is a kind of supporting skeleton of a structure that supports its geometry, and also distributes and transfers the weight of the roof to the foundation of the structure. It is made from wood coniferous species impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant, or metal. Metal rafter system

  1. It costs more, but can withstand heavy loads, so you can increase the pitch between elements. The roof frame is assembled in the following sequence:
  2. First of all, the Mauerlat is installed. The support beam is laid on the top frame of the house, secured with metal studs embedded in concrete or anchor bolts. The Mauerlat is made from timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm and is mounted on the walls on which the roof slopes will rest. How many slopes the roof has - so many support beams are needed.
  3. Then, tightening ties are installed that connect the Mauerlat in increments of 1-1.2 meters. The puffs are made from timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm. Install vertical racks
  4. in the middle of each puff in increments of 1-1.2 m. In order for them to stand vertically, they are supported with temporary slopes.
  5. Next, it is necessary to install the rafter legs of the frame in increments of 0.6-1.2 m. The spacing between the rafters depends on how much the roof covering weighs, the cross-section of the element and the width of the insulation.
  6. The rafters must be covered with waterproofing to protect against condensation and atmospheric moisture. The film should be laid “slack” so that it does not tear under water pressure.
  7. Lastly, you need to install a sheathing made of slats with a cross-section of 30x30 mm or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. The pitch between the sheathing elements is chosen in accordance with the weight of the roofing material and how many degrees the angle is between the surface of the slope and the base of the roof. The flatter the roof, the denser the sheathing should be, and the smaller the step between the rivers.

Important! It is possible to cover a roof with metal tiles, regardless of its design. The minimum recommended slope for this type of roofing material is 12-15 degrees. If the roof is flatter, then the installation is carried out with the obligatory treatment of the joints with sealant to prevent leaks.

Insulation

Before laying metal tiles, you should take care of the protection wooden elements frame from steam, condensation and moisture. Metal roofing coverings have high thermal conductivity, so they heat up quickly, but they also give off heat easily, so they need to be insulated.

Experienced craftsmen claim that it is impossible to properly cover a roof with metal tiles without using all three types of insulation in a comprehensive manner. Only by working together do insulation, vapor barrier, and waterproofing become effective.

Covering flooring

Instructions on how to properly lay metal tiles are popular among inexperienced craftsmen. To work with this unpretentious roofing material, no special skills or complex tools are required. Laying the coating will be done using roofing screws, a screwdriver, a building level and sealant and a circular saw with a metal blade.

  1. The process of laying a metal profile is as follows: Before laying metal tiles, the sheets are first cut. To simplify this task, you can purchase metal tiles whose sheet length corresponds to the size of the slope, then there will be no horizontal joints during installation and you won’t have to cut the material. In other cases, to cut the coating to size, use circular saw
  2. or jigsaw.
  3. Then the metal tiles are laid. The bottom row is laid out first, starting from the edge of the slope. An overlap of 10-23 cm or 1-2 waves is made between the sheets. The flatter the roof, the greater the overlap.
  4. The joints between the sheets can be treated with silicone-based sealant to prevent leaks.
  5. Each sheet of metal tile is fixed using galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with a wide press washer, which closes the mounting hole from water penetration.

After laying the covering, the ridge, ends, and eaves of the slope are decorated using additional elements, and drainage elements are installed.

Important! Knowing how to lay metal tiles correctly, without resorting to the services of a professional team of builders, you can significantly reduce construction costs. A roof deck made from this practical and lightweight material can be completed by two people in 3-5 days.



 
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