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Materials for waterproofing floors on the ground. Waterproofing the floor on the ground - choosing the most effective method. The installation of a waterproofing layer is a radical way to combat penetrating moisture

Waterproofing is necessary for any structure. Moisture entering the room can render the wooden parts of the house unusable, promote the appearance of fungi and the proliferation of microorganisms and insects. All this can lead to health problems, destruction of parts of the house and cause the need for unscheduled repairs and even partial reconstruction of the entire house. Waterproofing is especially important, including waterproofing the floor on the ground in houses built in areas where there is a significant amount of groundwater.

Purpose

Groundwater is found in almost all regions of our country and in all climatic zones. Even in the driest areas, the soil contains moisture. The only difference is at what depth it is located. The depth of its occurrence is called the groundwater level (GWL). Based on the height of their occurrence, the following levels are distinguished:

• high – depth up to two meters from the surface of the earth;
• low - more than two meters.

At any water level, moisture will gradually rise from the soil to the surface through the capillaries present in any soil. According to the laws of physics, the height of water rising in capillaries can reach 12 m. This is enough not only to moisten the walls, but also to completely flood some rooms. It should also be taken into account that the construction of a house will necessarily raise the groundwater level in the construction zone, again, according to the laws of physics. There are often cases when residents of private houses, who have lived in dryness and comfort for many decades, suddenly find their basements flooded immediately after the construction of a multi-story building nearby.

Physics also explains a paradoxical, at first glance, phenomenon - the denser the soil, the better the water rises. This is explained by the fact that the pores in such soil are thin and narrow, and this causes greater liquid pressure in them and, consequently, a higher rate of moisture rise.

The higher the GWL, the greater the likelihood of moisture getting from the ground into the room, the more serious the waterproofing should be. From the capillaries in the soil, water enters the capillaries of the foundation concrete or the pores of other building materials with all the ensuing (literally) consequences. Moisture getting into the pores of the walls is fraught with another problem - when freezing, the water expands, which leads to cracks and destruction of the walls or foundation.

Device

For proper waterproofing It will not be enough to simply lay a sheet of roofing felt under the covering. Waterproofing on the ground under the house is a complex multi-layer structure.

The main layers of waterproofing are:

• The soil is as compacted and compacted as possible. This must be done to level the surface for the next layers;
• Crushed stone about ten centimeters thick;
• Sand is a layer of the same thickness.

It is better to compact the last two layers thoroughly. They are the first serious obstacle to moisture.

The remaining layers must be made depending on the groundwater level:

• Waterproofing - you can use rolled bitumen materials, bitumen mastic;
• Concrete screed - layer reinforced concrete 4-5 cm thick;
• Vapor barrier - you can also use bitumen roll material based on fiberglass;
• Thermal insulation - polystyrene or foam.

The final layer is another reinforced concrete screed on which the coating can be laid. However, as already mentioned, the presence of these layers depends on the groundwater level under the house.

Low groundwater level

If the groundwater level is low, this may be enough to prevent moisture from entering the lower areas of the house. In this case, they do this: a layer of dry clay is placed on the bedding, which is also carefully compacted. IN Lately Instead of clay, a coating appeared on sale in the form of two thin layers of mineral fiber and a layer of dry clay between them. However, this material is not widely used due to some problems during its installation.

The next layer is concrete screed. The screed is reinforced using a special mesh. After the screed has dried, a layer of bitumen mastic is applied to it, which serves not only as an independent waterproofing material, but also adhesive base for laying roofing felt sheets.

High groundwater level

Depending on the height of the groundwater level, it is used various ways waterproofing:

• At a level of twenty centimeters or less, the foundation walls are covered bitumen mastic. A layer of clay 10 cm thick is laid under the concrete screed;
• If the ground level is from twenty centimeters to half a meter, two layers of rolled bitumen material are laid on the concrete screed. On top is another concrete screed;
• At a level of more than fifty centimeters, waterproofing must be made of three layers of rolled material. A concrete slab must be laid on top. The joints between the slab and the walls are insulated with polymer tape coated with bitumen.

Polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is used as insulation. Considering the fragility of these materials, as well as the fact that a concrete screed will be laid on top of them, the insulation layer is covered with plastic film. This must be done to avoid damage to the material during installation and during operation.

Some craftsmen prefer to use fiberglass mats as insulation. However, laying concrete can cause the fiberglass layers to shrink, causing the wool to lose its insulating properties and reduce its moisture resistance.

Foundation waterproofing

To ensure the most effective insulation It is better to waterproof the entire structure from moisture at the foundation even at the stage of its construction.

There are the following types of foundation waterproofing:

• vertical – treatment of foundation walls with waterproofing materials;
• horizontal - includes the creation of a drainage system, as well as the laying of waterproofing materials between the tape and the foundation walls.

Drainage system

Drainage system must be done if the groundwater level is at the foundation level or higher. It is also needed when groundwater accumulates due to poor permeability of the soil under the house.

The drainage system takes the form of a trench about thirty centimeters wide and deep, dug along the perimeter of the foundation at a distance of about a meter from its walls.

The bottom of this ditch is covered with a layer of geotextile, the width of which is equal to the perimeter of the trench walls. A five-centimeter layer of gravel is laid on top of the fabric. Then a special asbestos pipe is placed there to drain groundwater. It is covered with gravel on top and everything is wrapped in the edges of geotextile. The last stage is to fill the trench with earth.

Vertical insulation

Treating the foundation walls is necessary to prevent moisture from penetrating into the room through the foundation walls. For this, the following materials are used:

• bitumen mastic - applied to walls, can be used either independently or as an intermediate layer;
• rolled roofing materials - roofing felt or roofing felt;
• dry construction mixtures - plaster.

Bitumen mastic is made from petroleum bitumen with the addition of plasticizers and fillers. It fills the pores of the material from which the foundation walls are built and prevents moisture from penetrating through them into the room. For better effect The mastic is applied in two to four layers. The advantages of this method include:

• ease of application– applied using simple painting tools;
• efficiency - the method reliably protects the room from moisture;
• versatility– can be used as independent waterproofing, or before laying other materials, for example, roofing felt;
• cost – one of the cheapest insulating materials.

Flaws:

• quick drying– requires high speed of work, hot mastic must be applied immediately before work;
• fragility– every few years it is necessary to make a new layer.

Rolled materials are used for laying between walls and the foundation strip, as well as for application to walls.

The advantages of the method include:

• accessibility - a wide range of such materials includes many different types of waterproofing in different price categories;
• durability - service life reaches fifty years.

As disadvantages, it is worth noting problems with laying rolled materials on vertical surfaces. This requires treating the walls with other materials, for example, the same mastic, as well as the presence special tools and skills to carry out such work.

Dry mixes

Dry mixtures are one of the most common types of waterproofing. It not only promotes waterproofing, but also levels the walls before applying other coatings.

Has the following advantages:

• ease of application– the mixture is prepared according to the instructions on the packaging and applied using simple tools;
• cost - the most common mixtures have quite affordable price, in In this regard, this method is better than many others.

The main disadvantages include fragility and instability to sudden mechanical influences.

Waterproofing the soil base is a job that requires care and responsibility. Such floors can be installed when the soil on the site is dry, there is no groundwater or it lies deep. It is also necessary to take into account the level of precipitation observed in the construction area. The waterproofing of the floor on the ground itself does not take much time, but it is also carried out concrete pouring. It already takes almost a month to dry.

An example of a common mistake during construction: a leaky joint between the floor waterproofing on the ground and horizontal waterproofing foundation wall.

The advantages of such floors are:

1. Lack of work on laying large and massive slabs and beams. The floor is simply poured with concrete.
2. High quality and durability of the resulting surface.

Of the minuses, it should be noted that the soil requires careful preparation. You can’t just start working on land if it’s not brought into compliance with all the requirements. Laying a concrete floor on the ground can be done using various methods, but the most acceptable of them remains the following:

1. The soil base is thoroughly compacted, after which a layer of sand is added.
2. The second layer is expanded clay or crushed stone of small and medium fractions.
3. Executed directly.
4. After this, a rough concrete screed is laid.
5. Goes layer vapor barrier material.
6. A heat insulator is installed.
7. Reinforcement and finishing concrete screed are being carried out.
8. The selected floor covering is laid, but only after the concrete has completely dried.

This course of work is considered optimal. Even without much experience, you can make such a floor with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Preparing the base and waterproofing the concrete layer

Scheme of a concrete floor on gravel with waterproofing.

Preparing the soil before waterproofing is the most critical stage of work. It is necessary to check that the soil is dry and then compact it. When it is ready, using sifted river sand The first preparatory layer is poured.

After pouring, the sand is slightly moistened and compacted thoroughly..

The second layer is crushed stone of small and medium fractions, it is leveled and compacted. At this point, the preparation of the soil surface before waterproofing is considered complete; you just need to additionally check the horizontalness. This is done using a regular building level.

Waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground is carried out as follows:

1. Bitumen roll material or a polymer-based membrane is rolled out over the base, observing an overlap. All strips must go in the same direction; the overlaps are glued with construction tape, which ensures reliable protection from moisture.
2. If materials have been laid, it is necessary to re-check that the surface is completely free of any damage. If there are tears, cuts, etc., then such a film is completely unsuitable for use.
3. During installation, you will have to ensure that the film extends about 15-20 cm onto the walls. After installing the entire floor, small parts of the waterproofing material will remain above the surface. They are carefully cut using sharp knife. In some cases, the use of such materials is not possible. You can replace this stage with pouring a concrete layer, for which a completely different type of waterproofing will be used. For this purpose they use coating materials, which completely covers the concrete. This option cannot be called worse or better, since they both have their own characteristics and advantages.

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Laying a concrete subfloor

Rough laying on the ground includes not only screeding, but also insulating the floor and installing a vapor barrier layer. It is the rough screed that serves as the foundation and layer of security for the rest of the floor.

If the technology is violated, the quality of protection will be poor and all work will have to be redone. This subfloor on the ground is made of special lean concrete with a class of B 7.5-10, crushed stone is used for it with a fraction of 5-20 mm.

If a waterproofing layer is not used separately, then concrete class M50-75 can be used. Such rough fill under the floor on the ground is simple, its thickness should be only 40-50 mm, the permissible height difference is 4 mm.

The subfloor is laid on the ground following the following steps:

1. Installation of vapor barrier material. It is best to use polymer-bitumen membranes for this, which are made on the basis of fiberglass, PVC, and polyester. All of them are of the required quality.
2. Next comes a layer of insulation, which makes it possible to save heating costs. This method allows you to eliminate heat loss by about 20%, which is already quite a lot. In this case, you need to use materials such as PSB35 foam. If large loads are planned, then PSB50 is suitable. To prevent the foam from being destroyed when it interacts with concrete, it is necessary to lay a layer of polyethylene film with an overlap on top and bottom. It is important to ensure that the film does not have breaks or other defects.
3. Instead of polystyrene foam, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which is of great quality. Similar materials They are excellent for working with floors on the ground, although some experts recommend replacing them with mineral wool. But cotton wool accumulates moisture, so its use is questionable.

Flooring on the ground is the most common solution when constructing small country houses. This method is also in demand in construction. outbuildings, creating cellars and in a number of other cases. Laying out a floor on the ground is considered a very labor-intensive undertaking, but the cost of the entire complex of work is low, which allows the technology to occupy a leading position in work carried out independently. In order for everything to be done efficiently and the house to be comfortable to live in, it is especially important to complete all stages taking into account their specifics. Waterproofing the floor on the ground is just one of these.

As is clear from the word “waterproofing”, its task is to prevent moisture from penetrating into a certain space. As for making floors on the ground, the need for high-quality insulation is obvious. Groundwater located in the soil layers tends to penetrate capillarily into the floor base materials, thereby destroying them.

Damage from penetrating water manifests itself in two aspects:

1. Water vapor and liquid droplets gradually saturate the foundation materials of the house. Salts dissolved in water are corrosive and slowly destroy the structure of both wood and concrete, reducing the life of the floor in the house.
2. Climate change leads to the fact that water that gets into the pores of wood or concrete freezes and melts, creating increased porosity of the materials. The result of the processes is the slow transformation of wood into dust, and concrete into gradual cracking.

Thus, creating a waterproofing layer allows you to protect the floor of the house from negative impact aquatic environment.

Very often you can hear questions about whether it is possible to create a floor on the ground in any house. Practice shows that there are no restrictions in this matter. The soil can be completely dry or with nearby groundwater - no problem. Correctly selected layers of base, waterproofing and other coatings allow you to get a high-quality result in any case.

Ground flooring is suitable for small country houses, utility rooms, verandas, basements

Required stages of work and materials used

The ground floor is created on a layered base, the purpose of which is to prevent the appearance of holes and dips due to the natural subsidence of the earth. This structure is called a “pie”. Its design directly depends on what kind of soil is located under the house being built.

Important ! It is worth noting that the floor on the ground and its waterproofing must be carried out only at the construction stage of the building. Otherwise, it will not be possible to carry out all technological processes correctly.

If we consider the location of all layers, regardless of the type of soil, the depth of groundwater and other factors, in the “bottom-up” direction, then the sequence will be as follows:

1. High density soil. There are no additional materials here - the work is carried out with natural earth foundation, which must be strongly compacted. To carry out the work, special equipment is used, most often a level.
2. Backfill. There will be two layers, each about 10 cm. The materials will be crushed stone and sand. In this case, the crushed stone must be of a large fraction, and any sand. Their main task is to prevent capillary penetration of water into higher layers, as well as to create a leveling base for further work. You can replace crushed stone with expanded clay, but only on the condition that groundwater is located no closer than two meters to the base. Both layers must be compacted as much as possible.

For information ! It is unacceptable to replace crushed stone with broken brick or other similar material.

Floor pie on the ground

After all three layers (soil, crushed stone and sand) have been sequentially laid and compacted, you can proceed to the next stages, the choice of which is determined by the ultimate goal of the construction activities. It all depends on whether the house will have a wooden floor or a concrete floor. The waterproofing work also depends on this decision.

Wooden floor: structure and waterproofing features

Laying a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• Construction of support columns for laying lags.
• Treatment of the surface of the columns with coating waterproofing.
• Laying roofing felt as an additional barrier against water penetration.
• Laying wooden logs.
• Subfloor equipment. There are two possible solutions: a plank floor or a floor made of sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.

At the stage of creating a subfloor, there comes a time when it is necessary to resolve the issue of waterproofing. There are two options.

The first technology for forming waterproofing is that moisture-resistant plywood is used for the subfloor, thick sheets of which have high insulating parameters. To achieve an optimal result, it is worth covering the plywood with any of the film waterproofing options. This can be a rolled diffusion membrane or a polyethylene film (at least 200 microns). Features of installation include the presence of a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, as well as the mandatory use of adhesive tape for gluing the joints. After laying the waterproofing, a subfloor made of boards is installed.

Wooden logs are covered with polyethylene film - this is how one of the waterproofing layers is formed

The second technology is that the laid subfloor is covered with polyethylene film, providing a margin of 20 cm for the vertical walls. After this, it is worth laying a layer of foamed polyethylene, which is known as a reliable waterproofing material.

Important ! If you combine both technologies, the issue of waterproofing the floor on the ground will be resolved. In addition, there will be a reserve of insulating properties in case of unforeseen water manifestations.

The structure of the concrete floor and the specifics of waterproofing

A concrete floor on the ground is also built on the basis of three primary layers of the “pie”, but requires a more careful and serious approach. The specificity of the work is that the soil has a mobile structure, and concrete is a solid monolithic material. The formation of layers, including waterproofing, must combine these two contradictory factors. The issue can be resolved according to one of two schemes.

The first option implies the following sequence of work on the formation of layers:

1. A layer of fine gravel. Follows immediately after the sand layer.
2. An analogue of a rough screed, that is, a thin cement-sand layer poured as a solution onto laid gravel. The permissible height differences in the rough screed are no more than 3 mm for every two meters.
3. Two layers of rolled waterproofing. In this technology, roofing felt or roofing felt are recommended for use. The only limitation is that there should be no sprinkles between the layers. Joint insulation is ensured gas burner.
4. Thermal insulation layer.
5. Clean screed.

Standard option for concrete floor waterproofing

The second option for laying a concrete floor on the ground differs significantly in layers and materials:

• Polyethylene film. Creates the first waterproofing barrier over the sand base layer. Required thickness coverage is 200 microns. All joints must be covered with tape or other impermeable adhesive-based material.
  

  Important ! The layer will not serve as insulation if there is even minimal damage. Therefore, a mandatory requirement for polyethylene film is its integrity.

• Rough screed for which it is used standard option cement-sand mixture based on fine crushed stone and river sand. The thickness of the layer is limited to 50-70 mm.
• Waterproofing layer of rolled material. You can use any option: membrane or roofing felt.
• Insulation.
• Clean screed.

If necessary, as shown by calculations of the location of groundwater, additional waterproofing of the floor along the ground can be carried out.

Polyethylene film will serve as an excellent waterproofing layer only if there is no damage to it of any kind

Additional floor insulation measures

The whole peculiarity of the technology is that a layer of fatty clay is added, and then the layered structure of the “pie” acquires next view:

• Soil that is compacted to maximum density;
• A layer of oily clay - can be replaced with two layers of roofing material;
• Crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Impregnation of the last two layers with bitumen;
• Rough screed 50-70 mm thick;
• Waterproofing using roll materials;
• Vapor barrier;
• Clean screed.

The final stage is the device finishing screed

conclusions

It often seems that reproducing the layered structure of a “pie” is not difficult. However, flooring on the ground includes not only waterproofing work. This also includes determining the height of the floor in relation to the doorway, and modifying the layers according to real conditions and soil characteristics. In addition, you need to understand exactly how to position the floor on the ground relative to strip foundation and take into account a lot of different little things.

High-quality waterproofing of the floor on the ground is a reliable barrier to water molecules

All this is easy when the approach to the work is professional, that is, the floor is laid on the ground by people who have repeatedly performed similar actions. When specialists work, the probability of errors tends to zero.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage that is located above the ground.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for regulatory burden floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork during construction reinforced concrete slab ceilings This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden joists in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, Sand and gravel, and at low groundwater levels - sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Large crushed stones should not be placed in the cushion, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. Compact the fill soil until natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. Thick layer fill soil may result in excessive and uneven settlement of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, from crushing, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (e.g. plastic film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, on overall height all layers of the floor are fixed separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber 50-80 long mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (that's all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern Construction Materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for gluing roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

The profiled membrane is a sheet of polyethylene high density(PVP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the shape of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures. concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion spikes down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If upper layer If the ground cushion is filled with expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. Made of expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground, as the top load-bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, nor in wet areas- bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Flooring- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnish coating parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base— reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the external walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating(without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

These are the minimum requirements for ground floor insulation. It is clear that what larger sizes thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the construction of the subfloor, wood boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. This kind of floor quality board can be used without flooring. Permissible humidity wood flooring materials 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

For ventilation underground space floors on the ground along joists; in the premises there should be gaps in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or weak heaving soils Location on.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

Someone's idea soil waterproofing may seem extravagant and unrealizable - however, work in this direction has been carried out for a long time and is very successful. They help prevent premature destruction of the building’s foundation and are an integral part of many house construction projects.

What is it for?

Waterproofing the soil under the house allows you to protect the entire building or its individual parts from moisture in the form of groundwater, precipitation, melt water. It is carried out during the construction of premises below ground level, as well as when arranging floors on the ground. The latter is especially true for small country houses. Properly carried out work will eliminate whole line unpleasant phenomena in the form of the smell of dampness in the house, increased levels of humidity, the appearance of fungus and mold and, of course, flooding. We should not forget that refusal soil waterproofing devices will lead to moisture penetration into bearing structures buildings and their destruction.

Where to order?

Order services by soil waterproofing you can at Stargidrostroy! We have been carrying out work in this area for several years now and have everything that is necessary to implement projects of any size and any complexity. After you leave us a request, our specialist will come to you, who will conduct a thorough inspection of the property and advise you. He will draw up a technical report and offer you to conclude a formal contract. The choice of materials for work is carried out on an individual basis, depending on a number of features of the object: starting with the characteristics of the soil and ending with the depth of groundwater. It is this approach that allows us to guarantee excellent results, in which we are so confident that we provide a guarantee for our services.