≡× MENU

• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: design, installation and useful tips. Pouring a concrete blind area around a private house How to make a blind area for a house

The blind area around the house is simple, but a structural element that greatly prolongs the life of a building. Of two completely identical individual houses built at the same time in an area with a smooth, favorable climate, one, whose owners decided to save on the blind area, less than 20 years later required a major overhaul with partial replacement foundation, and the second has already outlived its fellow by more than twice and stands as if nothing had happened without signs of any violations in the structure.

At the same time, the blind area can be made completely with your own hands, incl. and around an existing building, without having any construction skills and thereby saving at least 150,000 rubles in the family budget, at current prices. This is for a house 10x12 m in plan and a blind area of ​​the simplest type. If the house is 12x15 m and the blind area is permanent, the savings from installing it yourself will be more than 250,000 rubles.

If now you immediately want to study the step-by-step instructions for laying a blind area, then please, here is a detailed video:

However, this is quite true, but only one specific example. Meanwhile, only in officially approved construction regulatory documents one can count at least 20 blind area schemes for different climatic conditions, the nature of the soil, the type of building, the availability of local resources for building materials, etc. And the notes to each diagram indicate when, under what conditions and how this design can be changed in order to simplify and reduce the cost.

That's why we Next, we’ll deal with what you can’t tell in the video. Namely: we will try to explain about various subtleties blind area so that you, the reader, understand the meaning of each element, each production operation and could provide long life your home without unnecessary work and costs.

Why do you need a blind area?

A blind area in the general sense is a cornice attached to a wall, covering the horizontal angle between it and the ground or floor. Ordinary floor plinth- also a blind area, only internal. The operating principle of the blind area is simple: do not completely block the path of unfavorable factors (moisture, dust, etc.), but take them to the side where they will not cause harm. The plug will eventually leak, but if nothing is leaking here, then nothing will leak. The obvious is easy to overlook, but the simple is difficult to invent: the blind area in construction appears only in Ancient Greece.

Foundation blind area - a low but wide cornice of the basement lying on the ground with a slope(see figure on the right), made of material that does not allow moisture to pass through and does not allow gases to pass through easily. The foundation is the basis of the building, and the blind area ensures its reliability and durability. Its significance for the foundation consists of 3 functions:

1. Protective – from precipitation;
2. Safety - as a stabilizer of the gas regime in the soil around the foundation;
3. Insulation – neutralizing the effect of heaving of freezing soil on the foundation of the house.

First. Due to thermal deformations and unequal shrinkage of the soil and foundation material, a gap inevitably arises between them. Through this gap, rain and melt water flow down the foundation, albeit in a very weak stream. The drop wears away the stone, and this flow washes away the foundation. And if the blind area takes it to the side, then water will naturally seep through the capillary passages of the soil. The water in the capillary can no longer wash away anything, because... its gravitational pressure is compensated by the force of surface tension.

Second. All soil inhabitants need oxygen. There are many supporters among them “ soft power»: plants – root aggressors and relatively large burrowing animals; both create passages in the soil through which water can again flow under the foundation and wash it away. At the same time, the soil around the house should not be allowed to suffocate; then chemically aggressive substances will form in it, which are not only smelly and harmful to health, but also destroy the foundation.

The blind area allows enough air to pass through so that there is enough useful soil fines, approximately the size of a nutritious grass root and an earthworm. And large “agents of influence”, finding that their oxygen is blocked from above, move away: there is enough land around, they can grow and dig somewhere else. Here the unreasonable creatures turn out to be smarter than other famous politicians.

Third. Frost heaving of the soil is dangerous primarily due to uneven lateral pressure on the foundation; it can lead to skewing of the building. The same house made of sand-lime brick, 10x12 m in plan and 6.5 m high from the base to the roof ridge, tilted as a whole by only 1 degree, begins to collapse 20 years after construction due to horizontal stresses in the structure. The blind area creates a layer of unfrozen, and therefore plastic, soil around the foundation, which evenly distributes lateral pressure.

Note: in the simplest case, the blind area acts as a snow coat on winter seedlings; here it does not release heat upward like the same cornice, only in the opposite direction. If the construction geology in a given location is unfavorable, then it may be necessary to insulate the blind area, see below.

Based on this, we can immediately draw important conclusions:

• The blind area should frame the house with a continuous strip: any gap will attract harmful factors, which will entail increased weakening of the foundation, which is especially dangerous because it is concentrated in one place.
• Cracks in the blind area are unacceptable for the same reason.
• The blind area cushion (see below) should not be buried more than 1/2 of the calculated freezing depth in a given area, otherwise it will turn into a rigid appendage of the foundation and lose all its functions; the blind area should “play” together with the ground without losing connection with the foundation. However, throughout the entire territory of the Russian Federation this condition is met without any additional measures.

How is the blind area arranged?

The construction of the blind area is also simple: it is a trench 20-50 cm deep, dug along the perimeter of the building close to the foundation. A thermal gap (expansion joint) is immediately made between the blind area and the foundation; To do this, it is covered with a rubber-bitumen compound and then with 2 layers of roofing material, the lower ends of which are bent into the trench by 50-70 cm.

Note: if the blind area is insulated, then the thermal break is superimposed on the insulation of the base/foundation.

Then the trench is lined with waterproofing made of polypropylene film; it gives just the right gas permeability. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured into this trench; in most cases - in a cage made of geotextile (road mesh), which prevents the migration of the cushion material into the ground, but does not prevent the outflow of moisture from it to the sides. Modern technologies Construction of blind areas involves laying multi-layer cushions. Alternating layers of sand and crushed stone make the blind area much simpler and cheaper, while at the same time increasing its efficiency.

pillow under monolithic coating it is poured into the formwork, under the slab form it is limited from the outside by a curb stone, and under the soft one it is either laid in the curb, or just like that. According to previous ideas, it is the covering that is the actual blind area, and the pillow only supports it. But multilayer cushions in geotextile with propylene insulation are able to take on all the functions of the blind area, so the coverings of modern blind areas can only be decorative and ergonomic. In general, blind areas are divided into 3 types:

1. Rigid - monolithic made of concrete, asphalt and cement-filled crushed stone with iron-plated surfaces;
2. Semi-rigid - with a multi-layer cushion and a flooring made of paving slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, reinforced concrete slabs with an additional cushion;
3. Soft - bulk made of crushed stone on a multi-layer cushion.

When is what kind of blind area needed?

All types of blind areas cope well with their responsibilities, but different terms. The durability of monolithic ones is almost equal to the service life of the building, but they are labor-intensive and expensive. This also applies to asphalt: its binder - tar - in modern conditions remains profitable only in large-scale road construction. Cement self-leveling coating is inexpensive and relatively labor-intensive, but is applicable only on stable soils; on heaving soils (wet loams, etc.) it is strictly not recommended. In addition, all hard coatings are not decorative.

Note: a case when you need to unconditionally choose a hard covering - an insulated blind area. It is useless to insulate semi-rigid and soft blind areas. And when you need to make a blind area with insulation, let's look further.

Soft covering is very cheap and easy to make. But it lasts no more than 5-7 years, but on any soil in any climate and replacing it is elementary, as far as this concept is generally applicable to construction work. It is optimal as a temporary one if there is a shortage of funds or you are simply tired of construction. We'll sort out the finances, we'll raise our hands again, we'll finish it thoroughly, but for now it will serve just fine.

In general, Taking into account modern construction achievements, preference should be given to semi-rigid blind areas. Their service life is up to 20-25 years in most parts of the Russian Federation, except for the permafrost zone, and in terms of labor intensity, maintainability and possibility complete replacement they are almost equivalent to soft ones. The cost depends on the coating material; work as expected on any soil.

The decorative qualities of semi-rigid blind areas are also determined by the coating material, for example. From the point of view of a landscape designer, the blind area (we will consider it in more detail) is no different from a garden path. Nothing is an exaggeration. The partial water permeability of the slab blind areas at the seams between the slabs makes it possible to dispense with internal slopes in the multilayer cushion, and leave the flooring horizontal, i.e. It will be possible to walk on it even in icy conditions.

Next we will look at how to properly make a blind area from the already mentioned paving slabs; The technology for constructing cobblestones differs from it only in the coating material. Along the way, we’ll deal with soft crushed stone and self-leveling cement, because The pillows needed for them are the same as for slab ones. Let us dwell in more detail on the concrete blind area as the most durable and the only one suitable for insulation. And we will touch on specific issues: the width of the blind area, its slope, insulation, drainage and the subject of discussion among builders - the connection between the blind area and the base.

Tile blind area

Overall true the diagram of a slab blind area with internal slopes has been circulating on the RuNet for a long time, but along with it there are also inaccuracies. Since the original information is advertising and commercial, perhaps the authors protected their know-how in this way. Let's try to supplement the source material until it is suitable for use. The correct blind area from paving slabs is made according to the diagram in the figure:

First, pay attention to the outer bend of the waterproofing up to the crushed stone. Its purpose is to prevent the first layer of sand from spreading. And drainage of a thin (3-5 cm) layer of sand will be ensured through the crushed stone layer overlying it.

Secondly, the recommended total cushion thickness of 30 cm is only valid if the blind area lies entirely in humus. If the humus layer is thinner, then the drained layers should not be buried in dense soil; The layer of crumpled clay is in any case 15-20 cm. What if there is less than 20 cm of humus or no humus at all? Install drains, see fig. on right. Prefabricated gutters are placed on the ground 1-2 m from the lowest corners along the overall slope. In general, drains are desirable for slab blind areas on any soil, and it is better to drain the collections into a storm drain (storm drain) or drainage well, if there is one.

Third, the thickness of the crushed stone layer is 3 times the thickness of the first sand layer, and the upper sand layer is 2 of them. For the blind area to function properly, the proportions must be maintained, but the thickness of the lower sand layer must be at least 3 cm. The thickness of the overlying layers is calculated along the wall and increases outward in accordance with the slope.

Finally, the slopes. They should decrease slightly from bottom to top. In this case, the slope of the clay preparation outward is 0.08-0.12 (8-12 cm/m), the lower crushed stone is 0.05-0.07, the upper crushed stone is 0.03-0.04. The top of the tile cushion is horizontal.

Soft and cement

The design of a soft crushed stone blind area is even simpler, see fig. The conditions for penetration into humus, slopes and the “trough” of waterproofing are the same, and the thickness of the crushed stone layer is equal to the total thickness of the crushed stone and top sand with tiles in the previous case.

The cement-filled blind area is done in the same way, but in formwork, and 2-3 cm less crushed stone is placed, see fig. below. Then the top is filled with cement-sand mortar no worse than M200; for its proportions and method of preparation, see the section on concrete blind area.

When the solution has set, but is still wet (watch out, don’t miss the moment!) to increase its resistance to abrasion, the surface of the pouring is ironed: sprinkle with an even layer of dry cement from M400 in a thin layer, just enough to cover the fill, and rub it thoroughly with a polisher.

Then the blind area is covered with a dark film (the iron surface ripens better without light) and periodically once a day or two, lifting the film, sprayed with water. An ordinary broom will work as a sprinkler. The period of aging until suitability for use is from 20 days. Outside temperature for the period of work - not lower than +12 degrees.

Note: in the blind areas already described and in all other blind areas that require clay preparation, the clay should be thicker. It works here more as a heat insulator, and fatty clay has less moisture absorption.

Once and for all!

What advantages and disadvantages does a monolithic concrete blind area have, are stated above. In addition, it requires careful implementation. It must be said that a blind area made of ready-made reinforced concrete slabs does not fully possess the qualities of a monolithic one; it is the same slab blind area, only more expensive and heavier. It is used more in industrial construction when there is a stock of reinforced concrete products or a source of their supply.

A summary diagram of a monolithic concrete blind area is shown in Fig. below. It only requires some explanation. Firstly, it is installed under the fill after laying the waterproofing. Its outer bend upwards, as in a multi-layer pillow, is not needed here. However, it is highly advisable to place geotextiles on the insulation before installing compensators (see below) and laying reinforcement around the perimeter of the formwork so that the sand does not spread later. You don’t have to bring the textile tape all the way to the wall, but put it on the formwork up to its edge, and at least press it there with pushpins so that the mesh doesn’t slide down during further work.

Second, after filling the cushion, but before laying the reinforcement, the formwork must be divided into sections using thermal deformation compensators; Without them, a solid concrete strip will soon crack. The maximum section length is 3 m, but expansion joints must, in addition, be installed between all pairs of adjacent and external corners of the building, see fig. That is, each section of the blind area should be a convex geometric figure in plan, without corners protruding into its contour.

Compensators are made of wooden planks 15-30 mm thick. Since they will not remain in the blind area forever, the workpieces must be thoroughly soaked, twice, with hot bitumen. It’s better not to soak it, but to scald it: boil it in bitumen, brought almost to a boil, for 10-20 minutes, turning it all the time. Compensators are installed immediately with the required slope - along them, like beacons, using a long rule or, if there is some construction experience, with a half-polish, the filling surface will be formed.

Note: If you have the opportunity to get hold of to treat wood with creosote, don’t! Creosote is a powerful poison and carcinogen; its use is steadily declining in industry, where special installations can be used to protect personnel.

Third is the pouring solution. The final grade of reinforced concrete must be at least M200, i.e. cement is needed from M400. But this is not enough, you still need to accurately follow the composition recipe. You can’t get by with bulk parts “by the bucket”, or even by eye, the tape will crack after some time, and repairing a monolithic blind area is more difficult than laying a new one. Components should only be measured by weight! The pouring of a monolithic concrete blind area is carried out with a solution of the following composition, calculated per cubic meter of finished material:

• Cement M400-M600 – 280 kg.
• Crushed stone – 1400 kg.
• Construction sand, fraction 0.2-0.35 mm – 840 kg.
• Technically pure water – 190 l.

The solution, as we see, turns out to be very dry, even drier than for floor screed. This is necessary because fresh pouring should maintain the specified slope until it hardens. Pouring is done section by section, in fairly large portions of the solution, so you shouldn’t rely on a handy tub and a hammer drill with a mixer; you need a concrete mixer. Mixing is done in the following order:

1. Weigh out the portions of components required for the next section.
2. Dry cement is thoroughly mixed with at least 20-25 revolutions of the mixer hopper; this is necessary to break up its clots and lumps.
3. Sand is introduced in 3-5 doses, mixing each dose with 5-6 revolutions of the hopper.
4. Crushed stone is introduced in the same way.
5. Add water in a gentle stream over 3-5 turns of the hopper.
6. Add another 10-15 revolutions of the hopper.

The poured section is compacted with a vibrating plank, trying not to touch the reinforcement with the working part in order to avoid the formation of cavities with cement laitance, which greatly reduce the strength and durability of the blind area. Then the slope is derived using compensators, like beacons. After the solution has set, it is advisable to iron it, as for a cement-filled blind area, and just like it, the monolithic one is covered with a dark film and periodically sprinkled with water. It is forbidden to cover with a damp cloth, such as, for example, a foundation! The solution on top will get wet, weaken and the entire blind area will crumble!

Do or pay?

Now you know enough to decide what kind of blind area you need. Further material will help you understand the details, and to decide whether to take on the work yourself or order it from builders, we inform you: the price of work alone on constructing a blind area in Central Russia ranges from 2000-2500 rubles/sq.m. m for soft crushed stone up to 3300-4200 rubles/sq. m for concrete monolithic. We emphasize: this is only work, the purchase of materials with delivery is the owner’s, so there is no need to count on wholesale discounts.

This is due to the fact that a normal customer, a normal designer and normal builders make the blind area at the same time as the entire structure. A finished house without a blind area is unfinished, but how much do builders like to finish unfinished projects and whether such work is profitable for them, you can ask any of them. Perhaps expand your knowledge of Russian, in parts not reflected in general-purpose dictionaries.

How can you save money?

But how to reduce the cost of a homemade blind area? To determine the scope of work, you need to know its width; the length will be given by the perimeter of the building, and the depth will be given by the selected scheme. According to SNiP, the blind area must extend at least 20 cm beyond the roof overhang, including gutters, but not narrower than 70 cm.

That is, we climb onto the roof with a plumb line and beat its outline along the ground. Then we measure along the entire length; if somewhere up to 0.7 m is missing, add as much as needed. Then we measure the resulting perimeter of the blind area; We now have a complete set of data to calculate the volume of materials and labor purchased.

Note: To avoid acidification of the soil, a blind area width of more than 1.5 m at a length of more than 2 m is undesirable. If this happens somewhere, we make the actual blind area 20 cm from the edge of the roof, and the rest will need to be paved with paving slabs on a simple sand cushion, like a path. You can make a playground in this place for children or for relaxation, with a barbecue, or somehow solve the issue based on landscape design methods.

Insulation and drainage

The next circumstance that can significantly increase the cost and complicate the blind area and still turn to professionals is its insulation. However, it will only be of any use if the blind area is monolithic, expensive and complex. Taking into account the fact that insulation most often has to be combined with drainage, the cost of work here can be a small fraction of that of materials. But is insulation necessary at all? And when, if so? Insulation of the blind area is necessary in the following cases:

• The house has a heated basement or ground floor.
• The house was built on heaving soil: clay or loam with high moisture absorption.
• The winter is unstable, with prolonged thaws, and the house stands on dusty soil with high moisture permeability; these are sandy, loess and alluvial soils.
• The freezing depth can reach that calculated according to SNiP (see below) more often than once every 3 years or once for any period of time for more than 2 months.

What and how to insulate?

From heat-insulating materials Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating the blind area. The latter, at first glance, is tempting with its cheapness, but it only seems so. Below we will deal with foam, but for now we will deal with EPS.

If the need for insulation is caused only by point 1, and the winter in a given area is consistently not very severe and the soil under the building is stable, the blind area should be insulated according to the diagram on the left in Fig. The principle is clear from there: the insulated blind area pushes the zero isotherm away from the house, which ensures its durability, as described above, but under difficult operating conditions.

Designations on the diagrams:

1. reinforced concrete monolith;
2. Eps boards;
3. waterproofing;
4. sand cushion;
5. stone border;
6. geotextile drainage pipe clip filled with crushed stone;
7. drainage pipe.

The simplified (left) diagram differs from the traditional ones, which we will talk about in more detail. First, how much EPS should I put under the blind area? This material is not very cheap, and every extra centimeter of its thickness means in this case an overspending of about 10,000 rubles. and higher.

Here it is appropriate to use the experience of traveling construction teams, that is, coven workers. They, by the way, are not at all such grabbers and scammers as they signed with the Soviet “Crocodile”. If the wolf is fed by his legs, then the coven, like a banker, is his reputation. Which consists not only of the speed and quality of work, but also of the savings on materials that are visible to the owner, because coven workers do not carry them with them.

So, the shabashniks have long ago developed an empirical formula to calculate the minimum permissible thickness of EPS under a blind area, namely: take the estimated freezing depth under the house in centimeters, subtract from it the width of the blind area, also in centimeters, and multiply the resulting value by 0.75, this and there will be the minimum required thickness of EPS in millimeters. Let’s say freezing is 1.8 m or 180 cm; The width of the blind area is 1 m, then you need a layer of EPS from 60 mm. More won’t hurt, as long as the customer forks up.

The freezing depth can be accurately calculated according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 “Foundations of buildings and structures”, with annexes and design manuals, and according to SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”. IN last years houses are often built on heaving soils, because... plots for development on them are cheap and there are a lot of them left from Soviet times, when they tried not to build “on the pukka”. In this case, the map in Fig. will help you decide on insulation, and for certain specific points of the Russian Federation - table. lower, because Calculation according to SNiP, although simple, is painstaking and requires taking into account many factors.

City	M	√M	Soil freezing depth according to SNiP, m
			loams and clays	fine sand, sandy loam	coarse sand, gravelly
Arkhangelsk	46,1	6,79	1,56	1,90	2,04
Vologda	38,5	6,20	1,43	1,74	1,86
Ekaterinburg	46,3	6,80	1,57	1,91	2,04
Kazan	38,9	6,24	1,43	1,75	1,87
Kursk	21,3	4,62	1,06	1,29	1,38
Moscow	22,9	4,79	1,10	1,34	1,44
Nizhny Novgorod	39,6	6,29	1,45	1,76	1,89
Novosibirsk	63,3	7,96	1,83	2,23	2,39
Eagle	23,0	4,80	1,10	1,34	1,44
Permian	47,6	6,90	1,59	1,93	2,07
Pskov	17,9	4,23	0,97	1,18	1,27
Rostov-on-Don	8,2	2,86	0,66	0,80	0,86
Ryazan	34,9	5,91	1,36	1,65	1,77
Samara	44,9	6,70	1,54	1,88	2,01
Saint Petersburg	18,3	4,28	0,98	1,20	1,28
Saratov	26,6	5,16	1,19	1,44	1,55
Surgut	93,3	9,66	2,22	2,70	2,90
Tyumen	56,5	7,52	1,73	2,10	2,25
Chelyabinsk	56,6	7,52	1,73	2,11	2,26
Yaroslavl	38,5	6,20	1,43	1,74	1,86

Note: within the same region, the depth of freezing can vary significantly depending not only on the soil, but also on the presence of communications in it, etc. If you want to achieve maximum savings, you need to calculate exactly according to SNiP and geological data directly under the house.

On the left diagram of Fig. at the beginning of the section, another crazy trick is visible: the vertical EPPS base slab (its thickness is calculated in the usual way based on the heat loss of the building) is not brought down to the freezing depth, but breaks off at the lower edge of the insulation of the blind area. The fact is that an insulated blind area reduces heat loss through the bare root of the foundation, and you won’t have to groan over bills for fuel or electricity for heating. The existing methods for calculating heat loss do not take this circumstance into account. But a weak additional heat flow from the side, combined with an upward geothermal flow (our planet has a positive heat balance, otherwise life on it would be impossible) pushes the zero isotherm even further. This is a case where harm turns to good.

When is drainage needed?

If, under the operating conditions of the building, at least one of paragraphs is present. 2-4, the blind area already needs to be drained from above. How - shown in right diagram rice. with diagrams. Drainage pipe diameter 110-200 mm; slope - within 0.03-0.1; You can drain the drain into a storm drain.

Note: If you come across a description somewhere of how to replace a special drainage pipe with a homemade one made from a sewer pipe, try to find the author and let him show where one will last at least a year without falling into complete disrepair.

How to lay EPS?

The actual insulation of the EPS blind area is not difficult: the slabs are simply placed on a sand cushion before laying the reinforcement, see fig. There is only one nuance here that can increase the efficiency of insulation: it is made of two layers of half-thickness slabs, and approximately half of the lower slabs are cut in half lengthwise and the halves are laid along the edges of the trench. This will result in a displacement of the seams along and across, which will negate thermal bridges.

What about foam?

Now let's see why it is undesirable to insulate yourself with cheap and technologically advanced foam. But because it is generally impenetrable, neither to moisture nor to gas. Therefore, when insulating with foam, in any case, a drainage depth of approximately 1 m is required, see fig. below.

Firstly, you can’t get by with open gutters here; without a filter grid on them, the drainage will quickly become clogged. Special gutters (on the right in the figure) are roads. Secondly, you can’t bring a deep drain into a storm drain; you need to build a prefabricated well with pumping. As a result, a seemingly cheap blind area becomes much more expensive.

When things fall apart

The worst case is when the house is located in a drainless lowland, in a place with high groundwater or prone to flooding. What is needed here is full-fledged lower drainage of the entire building, and this is such a topic that the blind area, as they say, rests. Just look at the figure, and this is only a summary diagram of the drainage of a house, without a collector network, a well and pumping. As for the blind area specifically, in this case it is not recommended to insulate it at all: general drainage will not allow the soil to swell.

When to finish the base?

Usually it is recommended to do the blind area as the very last thing, after finishing the base. But these tips go back to the times of Khrushchev-Brezhnev mass construction, when plinths were, at best, plastered. And now, for example, how to make a waterproof thermal joint between the blind area and the base, trimmed with relief stone or base siding?

Taking into account the use of modern finishing materials, the base of the building should be finished after installing the blind area. It won't get worse, it will only get better. Look at fig. In the place marked with a red dotted circle, above the thermal seam, the finishing of the base forms a small cornice - a teardrop. Now only a tropical hurricane can drive moisture into the seam.

What slope is needed?

It remains to deal with the slope of the blind area. For some reason in RuNet they recommend it at 10-15 degrees and even refer to SNiPs. Anyone except builders can know where these SNiPs exist. And it is clear that the authors of these tips themselves did not walk on such blind areas in slush or ice. And in those SNiPs according to which they actually build, it is recommended to maintain the slope of the blind area within 0.03-0.1. What will happen (remember about sines-arcsines?) 1.72-5.74 degrees.

About the curb

A proper blind area does not need a border. But it can be useful if there is a cultivated plants– root aggressors: raspberry, blackberry, poplar, plane tree, etc. of the same kind. Then lock the pillow curb stone They are made approximately a shovel bayonet deeper than the standard one and are made of sand mixed with broken glass. Continuing the analogy with “soft power”, agents of influence now immediately stumble upon a well-trained and organized counterparty, tough, firm and prickly.

A blind area is a single continuous covering that encircles a house or other building along the perimeter. Arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the building is erected. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tiles, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the complete completion of the mentioned event.

Helpful advice! All tasks associated with arranging the blind area must be completed before the cold weather arrives.

For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers is concrete blind area. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance characteristics and a relatively affordable cost.

Blind area around the house
Concrete blind area

Stone blind area
Brick blind area

Many owners do not fully understand the importance of the blind area, considering it an exclusively decorative element of the landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reading the information below, you will learn why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to arrange it, and how to make such a covering on our own.

As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main ones, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.

Table. Functions of the blind area

Functions	Explanations
Decorative	The blind area does general form buildings more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete.
Protective	A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. This structural element does not allow moisture to come into contact with the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of destruction of the foundation will be significantly reduced. The structure is arranged so that waste and other waters are immediately discharged into sewer system or another suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set.
Thermal insulation	Few people pay attention to this moment, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area helps to significantly reduce the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure.
Preventing soil heaving	As noted, the presence of a blind area allows you to reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, soil swelling will also be noticeably reduced. Thanks to this it will be ensured good protection foundation of the building from shifts in the ground, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole.

Design features and requirements for the blind area

The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is the underlying one. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. To make this design ball, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, and sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.

Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals– herbicides. The use of these prevents the growth of plant and grass roots in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of compromising the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.

The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protects the foundation from water. Thickness – up to 100 mm. Asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used to make the top ball.

In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be seen in the following image.

In order for the blind area to fully cope with the previously mentioned tasks, during its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.

1. Firstly, the width of the blind area must exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, this figure increases to an average of 100 cm.

   

   Blind areas: a – clay-crushed stone; b – concrete; c – asphalt; g – cobblestone; 1 – compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 – clay; 3 – cement screed 15 mm; 5 – concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 – asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 – crushed stone 10 mm; 7 – cobblestone; 8 – sand preparation 50 mm

   

2. Secondly, the blind area must be made with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific slope value is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finishing coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum acceptable slope, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.

   

   

3. Thirdly, the blind area must be continuous, encircling the entire perimeter of the building. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the design will significantly decrease.

   

4. Fourthly, the blind area cannot be connected to the foundation - these systems are characterized by different degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum 1-1.2 cm expansion joint must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or covered with sand.

   

   

   

Types of blind areas and their purpose

Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing varieties The blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.

Table. Types of blind areas

Group of blind areas	Description
	This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, asphalted blind areas, as well as coatings constructed using the self-leveling method (used cement mortar) on crushed stone with subsequent ironing of the fill. A monolithic structure, all other things being equal, will last no less than the building it surrounds. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially feasible only when carrying out large-scale asphalt work on roads. Important! If insulation of the blind area is planned, a rigid system is the only possible option– it makes no sense to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of rigid blind areas include their low decorative properties - a concrete or asphalt area can hardly be called very beautiful.
	The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multilayer cushion, and the top layer by paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options), reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, etc. can be used. Self-leveling coatings are relatively simple to install; they require much less labor and financial investments compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving soils.
	A multi-layer cushion is installed, and a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor-intensive. Disadvantage soft blind area is a low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. And it’s not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to resort to using a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources - you are unlikely to like doing the same thing every 5-7 years.

The most optimal type of coating in terms of the ratio of cost, quality and appearance indicators are semi-rigid blind areas. They last up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively low costs resources for your arrangement.

An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind areas is their attractive appearance. For example, having made a covering of paving slabs, the owner has at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. In this case, semi-rigid blind areas are installed in the same order - only the finishing coating material differs (usually paving stones or paving slabs).

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

The underlying layer (cushion) is made in the same order, regardless of the chosen type of blind area (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system; related issues will be discussed separately).

As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft crushed stone blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of crushed stone and an additional layer of sand are poured over the cushion shown in the image, after which tiles/paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel cushion is installed, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.

Sand cushion for the blind area
Crushed stone pillow

The procedure for arranging the pillow is described in the table.

Table. DIY blind area pillow

Work stage	Description
	A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. The depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended value is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater ease of work, you can first make the markings, taking as a basis the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or take the simplest route: Drive into the ground in the corners of the future blind area metal rods or wooden pegs; Drive in intermediate pegs; Stretch a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the selected type of blind area, at the same stage you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the inclination points. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with force, and continue until all the earth is compacted.
	Drive intermediate pegs vertically evenly into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will serve as supports for the formwork. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it doesn’t make sense anymore. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is demonstrated in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks.
	For the construction of formwork, boards 3-4 cm thick are suitable. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can first mark the boards according to the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. You can tighten the corners of the structure along the outside with corners. It is preferable to use bolts to fasten elements together - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be sufficient. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden constituent elements antiseptic and wrap with roofing felt or other insulating material– unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not have the best effect on the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows the reinforcement. We don't pay attention to it for now. Note two. The image shows the option with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - it is of fundamental importance this moment does not have. In general, you can do without such supports by ensuring the stability of the boards using bricks/blocks installed on the reverse side. Important! The expansion joint is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the structure being built. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of soil heaving due to temperature changes, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged with an average 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick at the specified spacing, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden elements structures must be soaked in antiseptic before use. If you plan to install a blind area that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it’s simply more convenient.
	Fill the trench with a 10-15 cm layer of sand (depending on the initial depth of the hole). If possible, use fine river sand. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is thoroughly compacted. You can use the same method as for compacting soil. For better compaction, soak the sand with water. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after compaction, and not after the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different grades so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or broken bricks. This layer of cushion will ensure the removal of moisture penetrating through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If at the venue construction work high location is noted groundwater, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and crushed stone layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the walls of the formwork. Do not forget to maintain the specified surface slope (if provided) when filling with sand and crushed stone.

The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the characteristics of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common variants of the design in question.

Soft crushed stone blind area

In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of crushed stone. To broaden your horizons, we invite you to read alternative option arrangement of such a structure using additional waterproofing material.

First dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the instructions above, then follow the instructions below.

Table. Soft blind area

Work stage	Description
	A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing felt, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but lasts much longer. In the example under consideration, formwork with a width of 80 cm is installed. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. To avoid cutting the material, simply bend the excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or other suitable composition.
	A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture is poured on top of the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel/crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope.
	On top of the sand and gravel backfill, you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of crushed stone and compact it well - this way the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it.

The temporary soft crushed stone blind area is ready. If you wish, you can hide the formwork boards using decorative borders.

Prices for crushed stone

Basic information

As noted, the technology for arranging a blind area with a finishing coating in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of specific material is up to the owner, but there are several important notes.

Thus, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the disadvantages of paving stones, one can note only the relatively high cost.

Tiles are one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging blind areas. This option has a number of significant advantages:

• tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the quantity required to fill the site;
• the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finishing option that the owner wants to see;
• You can lay the tiles yourself, spending relatively little time on it - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks for the concrete to harden.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

Which tile should I use?

When choosing tiles for a blind area, follow the tips below.

Advice one. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibration pressing method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of purchasing a fake, because It is impossible to produce this finish in artisanal conditions - serious, expensive industrial equipment is used to produce tiles of this group.

Vibro-cast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the real quality of such products usually remains a mystery.

Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of the tiles on paper or in a special computer program - this way you can choose the design you like best and make it easier for you to carry out the work further. If you wish, you can use one of the ready-made options shown in the images.

Tip three. For paving the blind area, select tiles that will fit well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.

Paving technology

You have already made a cushion for the blind area. Further work performed in the sequence shown in the table.

Table. DIY tile blind area

Work stage	Description
	As you can see on one of the above images, cushion for blind area with paving tiled has additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Place 8-10 cm of sand on top crushed stones. Recommendations in regarding leveling and material tamping is similar previously arranged layer.
	Proceed to paving the blind area. Lay the tiles from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place the elements according to the principle of brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in nearby rows. You can choose a specific installation option from the illustrations suggested earlier or come up with it yourself.
	To ensure a tight fit of the tiles/paving stones to the base, use rubber mallet. Work with the tool is carried out in the following order: Tiles are laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer carefully taps on the board, trying to press firmly enough, but gently, on the tile with a mallet through the mentioned spacer. Each tile is laid in this order.
	Using a level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Add sand under the sagging finishing elements, press down the protruding parts of the tiles with a mallet, following the above instructions, while simultaneously maintaining the required slope of the blind area. Pave the entire area in accordance with the given sequence. If there is a need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder.

Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones/tiles. We recommend laying the finish directly on compacted sand - in this case, more efficient drainage of water through the gaps between the tiles will be ensured. In the case of arranging a cement fill, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the occurrence of ice during the cold season and all the accompanying troubles.

If, due to some circumstances, constructing a blind area without using a cement screed is not possible, after filling the layer of sand, do the following:

• prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium thickness;
• spread the solution over the surface of the area being equipped using a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight strip (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.

After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue for this purpose, designed specifically for fixing the finishing materials in question. For the procedure for preparation and proper use of glue, please refer to the manufacturer's instructions - for different compositions these points may vary.

Some developers even accept the design with cement filling without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.

This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.

Concrete blind area

An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having spent a relatively significant amount once on arranging a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and extremely durable structure.

We will tell you about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a thermal insulation layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, plinth and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps affecting the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to abandon thermal insulation.

Insulated concrete blind area - photo of layers
Concrete blind area - diagram

Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the soil freezing depth. In practice, the installation of such a design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of ​​​​the site. In view of this, developers adhere to the “golden mean” of 700-900 mm.

Before starting work, you need to select a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.

1. Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
2. Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
3. Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.

Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material foam is used to insulate the blind area. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to install insulation in 2 layers.

The composition of the cushion for a concrete blind area remains similar to previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.

First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If there is no possibility of subsequent dismantling wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements), you can simply glue the insulation boards to pre-assembled boards using an adhesive composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.

Along with this, an alternative option is available: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic film and deepened into the ground along the blind area. Even if such a structure remains visible after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this:

Improvised formwork with thermal insulation material installed along the entire length of the blind area. You can use bricks or building blocks, installing them on the ground on the back side of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.

The polystyrene foam will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials poured further. To be more sure, you can bury the slabs a couple of centimeters into the ground or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in foam plastic - to the formation of cold bridges.

In this case, insulation can be used to make a damping layer between the base of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.

After installing the side thermal insulation boards, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging a blind area followed by paving with paving slabs.

Table. DIY concrete blind area

Work stage	Description
	In this case, it was decided to use two-layer thermal insulation made of ordinary polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is installed. The slabs are laid as closely as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. After covering the entire area with insulation, fill the existing gaps with foam. Let it dry, cut off any excess sharp knife and proceed to laying the second insulating layer. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps occurring between elements laid next to each other. Important! Thermal insulation layers are laid with bandaged seams, i.e. the joints of the top row should be offset from the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this.
	For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The rods are assembled into a mesh with cells 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections using binding wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The mesh must be laid indented from the base. To ensure this, special support clamps are used. If you don’t have a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not be possible to provide a 5-centimeter offset as when pouring a foundation, because... this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10mm gap.
	Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a proportion of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that the output is a plastic, homogeneous mass of normal thickness. Pouring the finished mortar is carried out in the same way as a cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled using a mop or other suitable device, for example, a rule - a long straight strip. In this case, the function of beacons will be taken over by side walls formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, fill the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this requires 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic film. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, pour a small amount of water on the concrete and cover it back - this will allow the maximum amount of cement to react, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure.

Helpful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with fiberglass mesh. To fasten it with Styrofoam will do ordinary PVA glue. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.

In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions made of boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, as a result of which the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to tear the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.

Prices for concrete mix

concrete mixture

Drainage issues

To ensure effective removal of precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:

• an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
• the resulting pipe halves are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
• In the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, solid drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. Trenches are dug to accommodate them. Select the dimensions of the pit so that there is at least 5 cm of free space on the sides and top of the pipe. First fill the bottom of the trench with a 5-centimeter layer of sand and compact it. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and directed towards the structure for collection. Wastewater. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the site arrangement.

The described drainage looks like this.

To improve the appearance of a concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner’s choice.

Happy work!

Video - DIY blind area

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

The installation of a blind area is an extremely important event. These works are carried out after the construction of the house is completed, so sometimes they are given insufficient attention, which is unacceptable, since the design of the blind area performs the extremely important task of protecting the foundation from atmospheric moisture. The following describes how the blind area should be made with your own hands, step-by-step instruction for each type of protective strip and recommendations for the selection of materials.

Concrete blind area

Today this is the most popular method of protecting the foundation, but it has a fairly large number of disadvantages, therefore, if you have the financial means, choose a more expensive and reliable option, it is better to resort to it.

Most often, this type of blind area is typical for mass urban construction.

The disadvantages include:

1. The manufacture of a concrete element is carried out in the following order: Calculation of the thickness of the entire structure, in which all layers must be taken into account.
2. This value is needed in order to determine the depth of the trench along the perimeter of the foundation. Determination of geometric dimensions. On average, the width should be taken within 90-100 cm. The slope for concrete is 3-5% (for piece materials
3. – 5%, therefore, in order not to get confused in the values, it is recommended to remember the general – 5%). Place markings on the area.
4. To do this, the limits of the future structure along the perimeter of the foundation are marked with pegs with a cord stretched along them. Next, a trench is opened.
5. The dimensions in the plan are already limited by the markings; all that remains is to dig out the soil to the depth calculated in the first point. The base soil is thoroughly compacted.
6. If possible, make a castle from clay, which will provide additional protection from moisture. The next layer is a sand cushion.
7. Sand performs three functions: replacing heaving soil, which is widespread throughout the country, with conditionally non-heaving soil, leveling the base, and installing a drainage layer. The sand cushion is made only from coarse or medium sand. If the blind area is built with your own hands using fine fractions, then large shrinkages, cracks and damage to the waterproofing are possible. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the characteristics of the soil. It is important to consider strength and water saturation. If the soils on the site are strong, it will be enough to lay about 200 mm of sand. For unstable foundations, 500mm of sand bedding may be required. Here you can use not only crushed stone, but also gravel or a sand-gravel mixture. The construction of a blind area on such a foundation increases the strength of the soil and increases the reliability of the entire structure. At this stage, the preparatory work is completed. Up to this point fundamental differences on how to properly make a blind area for a foundation from different materials, No.
8. The next stage is placing the formwork. Formwork is needed so that the liquid concrete mixture does not flow beyond the markings. For manufacturing, you can purchase boards with a thickness of 22-25mm. You can use old materials to save money. Walls are made from boards and installed around the perimeter of the foundation. In this case, it is important to install the board directly to the wall of the building; the thickness of the formwork element will provide the necessary expansion joint, the thickness of which is in the range of 20-40 mm. The seam is needed to prevent cracking and deformation of the structure due to different shrinkage of the foundation and blind area.
9. After the formwork is installed, reinforcing mesh is laid. They will increase the bending strength of concrete. The diameter of the reinforcement in meshes is recommended to be approximately 10 mm. This technology for constructing a blind area will ensure its strength and reliability.
10. Next, the installation of the blind area requires the installation of transverse boards along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The boards will provide expansion joints that cut the strip into separate sections. The pitch of the boards is 2 meters.
11. The next stage is pouring concrete. For this purpose, a concrete mixture of classes B20 - B22.5 (grade M300) is made. It is this solution that can ensure the durability of the structure and the necessary strength. You can use concrete of smaller classes, B15 and B17.5 are suitable, but it is worth remembering that the service life will be reduced. When using B22.5 mixture, the standard service life will be approximately 25 years. The filling of expansion joints in each compartment between the boards is carried out in one step. Afterwards, compaction is required. There are several methods, but the most common is vibratory hammers. If you do not have the necessary equipment, you can use bayonet.
12. After the solution is poured, the surface is ironed, this is done to increase the strength characteristics.
13. The penultimate stage of manufacturing a concrete foundation blind area is strengthening the structure and maintaining it. At a temperature of +20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity, it takes 4 weeks to harden. If the temperature is lower, the process slows down significantly. It is necessary to wait until at least 70% of the brand strength of concrete. For a week or two after pouring, the surface is moistened every 2-3 hours (and at night 2-3 times per night). This is necessary to prevent cracks from appearing.
14. When the concrete has gained 70% strength, the formwork can be removed. After this, the installation of the blind area is completed.

Foundation blind area made of paving slabs

In this case, making a blind area around the house with your own hands has only one drawback - cost. But in terms of appearance, maintainability and ease of use, it is superior to the previous type.

The preparatory stage of work is carried out according to points 1-7 for the manufacture of a concrete foundation blind area.

Scheme of paving slab construction

1. An additional 70-100mm layer of sand is laid on the crushed stone, while ensuring the required slope.
2. The next stage is installation of tiles.
3. Seal the joints of piece elements with cement-sand mortar.

More details about this type of construction can be found in the article “Blind area made of paving slabs.” Using the same technology, a structure made of cobblestones or ceramic bricks is installed.

Clay blind area

Arrangement of this type to protect the foundation requires performing actions in the following order:

Clay structure construction

1. Preparation according to points 1-7 for a concrete blind area.
2. Laying a layer of clay 100-150 mm thick and compacting it. For manufacturing, you can use the clay that remains after excavating the foundation pit, but only if it is of good quality and high strength.
3. The arrangement ends with the creation of a decorative layer. To do this, stones are sunk into the clay layer or pebbles are laid on top. This will create a convenient walking path and strengthen the structure.

Clay blind area is an inexpensive and not labor-intensive option for creating drainage around the perimeter of the foundation.

Membranes

Design diagram with a profiled PVP membrane

Before making a blind area around the house, it is recommended to consider the option of PVP membranes.

This material provides the highest degree of protection supporting structures from atmospheric moisture.

The technology differs from conventional types of protective blind areas:

1. Perform steps 1-5 for a concrete blind area.
2. Lay a layer of sand and a membrane in it.
3. Cover it all with a layer of crushed stone.
4. Perform backfilling.
5. Planting grass.

The membrane blind area does not reach the surface and cannot be used as a sidewalk. Its only function is reliable waterproofing. INThe choice of material depends on the capabilities and wishes of the future owner of the house.

To prevent erosion of the soil around the house by rain and melt water, as well as to remove precipitation from the foundation, a blind area is made around the house. These works must be carried out before the final finishing of the base. More specifically, decide for yourself. But it is undesirable to delay: leaving a house or bathhouse over the winter without a blind area, you may end up with several cracks in the foundation in the spring.

The blind area around the house is a simple structure. However, it greatly extends the life of buildings. During autumn bad weather, water seeps into the foundation. In cold weather, it freezes, increasing in volume, which creates excess pressure. As a result of this load, cracks appear in the foundation, into which water also penetrates. Freezing makes them even wider. Without a blind area for some time, the foundation requires serious and expensive repairs. Sometimes the damage is so severe that it cannot be repaired.

But these are not all the functions that it can perform. protective covering around the house. In some cases it is used as a path. Sometimes, by laying insulation and a layer of waterproofing under the blind area, you can improve the operational characteristics of the building and correct some shortcomings made during construction in thermal and thermal conditions. In addition, from a decorative point of view, it serves as a logical conclusion to the design of the house.

What is the blind area made of?

Most cheap option- from concrete mortar. But it takes more time to create such a design. Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement are required. The entire time until the solution gains strength, you cannot walk on it, and this is at least four to five days.

Other types of protective belt covering around the house are paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, natural stone, porcelain tiles, etc. There are a lot of options today. The main thing is that they have the following properties:

• did not let water through;
• did not crack when freezing/thawing;
• had high abrasion resistance;
• had aesthetic appeal;
• had a long service life.

There is another material for blind areas, but it is rarely used in private housing construction - asphalt is laid around the house. As for attractiveness (as in the case of concrete), the issue is debatable, but the other characteristics are simply excellent.

But a protective coating is not everything. Other materials will be needed. Which ones specifically depend on the option you choose to implement. We can say for sure that sand and crushed stone will be required. You may need waterproofing and slab insulation.

Dimensions

Since the main task of the blind area is to remove thawed and rainwater, its width should be at least 20 cm greater than the roof overhang. But experts do not recommend doing it less than 60 cm - moisture can seep into the foundation.

The width of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. If these are normal soils that drain water well, then 60 cm is enough. If the house is on loam, other heaving or unstable soils, the width should be up to 1 meter.

Basic parameters of the blind area for normal drainage of water from the foundation

But the blind area must also go deeper. Its depth depends on the type of soil, the functions it will perform and the thickness of the top finishing layer.

If the house stands on normal, non-heaving soils (not clay or clay-containing soils), and people will not walk on the surface, it is enough to make a backfill of sand 10 cm thick. You can lay tiles, stones, etc. on top. This means that the depth of the trench will be about 10-20 cm - it depends on the thickness of the finishing material. Only for coverings that are made up of fragments, a border is required. So you dig in edge stones around the perimeter, reinforce them, and only then pour sand into the bottom of the trench.

If the formwork is to be used as a walkway, a more substantial weight-distributing underlay is required. At the bottom of the ditch, crushed stone of a medium-sized fraction of about 15-20 cm is first laid, and then sand is placed on it, and only then the finishing coating.

What else is mandatory is compliance with the slopes: the decline comes from the house. So the moisture will flow into drainage system or the surrounding soil. The amount of slope depends on the type of protective coating used. For concrete and asphalt, the slope is 3-5% (height difference per 1 meter is 3-5 cm). When laying stone, tiles, porcelain stoneware, the slope is 5-10%.

Work order

After the dimensions have been selected, the actual installation of the blind area begins. IN general case this happens in several successive stages.

Marking and soil removal

The selected width is laid around the perimeter of the building. Here it must be said that in those places where people will walk, it can be made wider.

They are usually marked by driving in pegs. By stretching a string or cord between the pegs, they outline the front of the work. Over this entire area it will be necessary to remove the turf and some of the soil. At the same time, the roots of the plants are removed. Often they are treated with chemicals that prevent plant germination. If this is not done, as they germinate, they will destroy the coating.

Construction of expansion joint

It is very important to remember when doing this that the blind area and the foundation should not be connected. To do this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint around the perimeter of the foundation, about 2 cm wide. In practice, this is either strips of foam plastic 2 cm thick, or two layers of folded roofing material attached to the foundation.

An expansion joint is necessary so that when the soil moves under the blind area, it does not put pressure on the foundation. If this is not done, instead of preventing destruction, it will create pressure, which will sooner or later lead to cracks in the walls.

Bedding and finishing coat

If you follow the “folk” technology, a layer of clay is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It will prevent moisture seepage. It is compacted, already at this stage creating a slope from the foundation. This backfill is suitable for any type of soil. It may take a long time to compact it, but it will not conduct water. If you use sand for the blind area of ​​a house standing on clay soils - most of the water will be just under the foundation.

Things will go faster if you use a tamping machine. If there is no such thing, take a log of medium diameter and saw off 80-90 cm. The height should be such that you do not have to bend over - you should be able to reach the top edge with your hands. On one side they fill the crossbar - the handle. This deck is used to compact it, raising and lowering it.

Then add a layer of sand. It is spilled with water and also thoroughly compacted. In normal soils and if people will not walk on the blind area, you can lay paving slabs or paving stones. When using concrete as a protective covering, it will be necessary to pour and compact a layer of crushed stone, arrange formwork and expansion joints, lay out the reinforcing belt and only then pour the solution. So making a concrete path takes a lot of time.

Insulation of the blind area

If a blind area is made around a house with a basement or ground floor, it must be thermally and waterproofed at the same time. Insulation is necessary for any slab foundation - it will prevent the soil under the slab from freezing.

Some experts argue that in middle lane In Russia and in the north, insulation is necessary in any houses with seasonal residence. The fact is that in a heated house, the heating itself prevents the foundation from freezing. And if they insulate the blind area, it is only for the purpose of saving fuel. In a house with seasonal residence, it is necessary to take additional measures to extend the life of the building. And that's why. Any material can withstand a certain number of freezing and thawing cycles. After which it begins to collapse. In the absence of insulation, in one season the foundation will freeze and freeze as many times as the weather changes - in autumn and spring the weather often alternates between warm and cold. It is clear what this state of affairs will lead to: after some short time, destruction will begin.

To insulate the entire depth of the ditch (or better yet, the foundation), a thermal insulation layer is attached to the base. It is also laid on the bedding under the protective coating. To insulate the blind area around the house, the following materials are used:

• expanded polystyrene;
• foamed polyurethane;
• Styrofoam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

This material is one of the best for insulating foundations. At the same time, it retains heat and does not allow moisture to pass through: its hygroscopicity is close to zero. Its downside is that it melts easily. But for insulating the foundation and formwork, this drawback is not significant.

It is advisable to spread plastic film on horizontally laid out slabs - it will protect the joints of the slabs from water leakage.

Formwork with polystyrene is done in this way:

1. Compacted coarse sand in a layer of 15 cm.
2. Ruberoid. In this case, it must be placed on the walls by 15 cm.
3. Polystyrene boards, joints are sealed with sealant. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. It can be either one slab, or two 5 cm each. If there are two slabs, they need to be glued with overlapping seams - this will provide more reliable protection against moisture penetration.
4. Polyethylene film 200 microns.
5. Layer of sand. It is carefully compacted, trying not to push through the slabs.
6. Protective material.

Any film is used as a protective material. But under the concrete, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed (metal with a cell of 10*10 cm) and only then the solution is poured downhill.

Foamed polyurethane

It is sprayed from special devices. It does not rot, practically does not absorb water, the operating temperature range is from -60 o C to +150 o C. It is applied quickly - all work can take three to four hours, but the use of a special apparatus entails payment for services. They are not cheap - one of the components is toxic. So, for all its attractiveness, this method is used infrequently.

Foam insulation

This is the cheapest of the insulation materials. It has good heat-insulating properties, does not allow water to pass through, and also has good sound-proofing properties. Its only drawback is its low mechanical strength. When using it, an additional reinforcing belt is required. The sequence of actions is the same as when insulating with polystyrene, only two differences:

• pour sand on top of the insulation in a thicker layer, compact it only by patting it with a shovel, and you cannot walk on the foam;
• under tiles or paving stones, a reinforcing belt is also needed, which is covered with a second layer of sand on top.

Despite the low price, polystyrene foam is not the best choice: He is too afraid of stress. If people will walk on the path, it should not be used. To reduce the cost of insulation, you can use it for gluing to the foundation, and purchase polystyrene foam for the formwork itself. This will be the best option.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary for heaving soils and lack of insulation of the foundation and blind area. In this case, the less water there is under the building, the less likely it is that heaving forces will damage your building.

The sequence of layers for waterproofing is as follows:

• The waterproofing layer is an ordinary dense polyethylene film 200-300 microns thick - clay is laid. There is no need to tighten it - there should be some freedom of movement so that it does not tear during seasonal movements of the soil. The height of the approach to the foundation is 15-20 cm. It is nailed to the foundation with a clamping strip (if it is wooden, then it must be treated with hot drying oil so that it does not rot). But this is done later, after laying a layer of sand and geotextile. So for now, fix the film on the wall, for example, with a few nails.
• 10-15 cm of sand is poured onto the film. It's being compacted. Geotextiles are laid on top. It is a godsend for blind areas - it allows moisture to pass through, redistributes the load, does not tear, does not allow different layers to mix, is not damaged by insects and rodents, and does not allow plants to germinate. And all this is some kind of woven or non-woven membrane (they come in different types). Lay the geotextile so that it overlaps the film laid below, and attach both layers with a strip to the foundation. On the other hand, it must cover the entire remaining height of the dug trench.
• Then there are two options:
  1. To save money, you can fill the remaining pie with crushed stone, and lay a reinforcing layer on it - a metal mesh made of steel rod with a pitch of 10*10 cm. Concrete can be poured on top.
  2. If you use paving stones or tiles, the cake will be more difficult. It will be necessary to lay another layer of geotextile on the compacted crushed stone. Lay another layer of sand on it, and then lay protective and finishing tiles on top of the sand.

Two options for constructing a blind area - made of concrete and tiles, rubble stone, etc.

This design drains water perfectly.

Soft hidden blind area

Modern waterproofing materials allows you to avoid making a protective coating around the house. They effectively retain and drain water, while the cost of such a pie is much lower. In this case, they talk about a hidden blind area. And all because right from the foundation you can sow grass or arrange a flower garden, and all the layers that drain water are located in the thickness of the rock.

Profiled membranes are used to install a soft blind area. They have a nonlinear structure - small protrusions and depressions.

A soft blind area around the house is easy to implement with your own hands. The only thing that can cause some difficulties is the rather large volume earthworks. The width of the ditch is desirable from 1.2 m to 1.5 m. But the depth can be small - about 25-30 cm.

The procedure for installing a hidden soft blind area is as follows:

• First, the soil is removed and a slope of 3-5% from the house is immediately formed.
• They are treated with chemicals from plants.
• Roll out the profiled membrane over the entire width of the blind area, place one edge slightly onto the wall and secure it, the other is simply left free.
• A layer of geotextile is rolled out on top. It is laid in the same way - one edge is fixed to the wall. Both layers of waterproofing materials can be secured together with one clamping strip.
• Pebbles or a large fraction of screenings are poured onto the geotextile and crushed.
• The next layer is medium and fine screening, and sand on top. Each layer is compacted separately.
• poured on top fertile soil and plants are planted.

Despite the apparent unreliability, this design removes water even better than those made using traditional technologies. But, as you can see, the work is not complicated or expensive. If necessary, you can lay tiles or paving stones on a layer of sand. Then the look will be more traditional.

There is one caveat: if the soil on the site is clay (namely clay) or your house is on a slope, it will be necessary to supplement the structure drainage pipe. It is laid at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the wall of the house, at the level where the geotextile bevel ends (you can lower it a little lower). But at the same time, the membrane and geotextile must cover it from below and from the outer side, so that the collected moisture flows through the perforation into the pipe, and then through it to the sewer or drainage system.

Features of concreting

When installing a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the subtleties of the technology.

Firstly, the composition of the solution must be frost-resistant. It’s clear why. Can buy ready-made mixtures, but it's not cheap. You can use additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete. In the simplest case, add more cement. Make a solution at the rate of: one part cement, three parts sand and crushed stone.

Secondly, to avoid cracks, expansion joints must be made. For this, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are usually used. They are treated against rotting with hot drying oil or. Then they place it on the edge, setting the required slope, approximately every 2-3 meters. Secure with metal pins or wooden pegs. When pouring the solution, they can be used as beacons. In the future, the planks will ensure the mobility of the formwork during seasonal soil movements.

And thirdly, to give the surface greater strength and a more aesthetic appearance, it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed down with a trowel. This is done after the filling is completed. This process is called ironing of concrete. The surface then becomes strong, smooth, with a slight shine.

Results

Setting up a blind area around the house with your own hands is not the easiest, but it’s also far from the most difficult task. There are many solutions that will improve the performance of a building and extend its service life.

Reliable protection of the foundation from destruction by surface water is facilitated by the presence of a concrete blind area surrounding the building. The undoubted advantage of the design is its ease of manufacture. The only alternative option for creating a barrier would be a multi-tiered “pie”. The integrity of the building directly depends on the quality of the foundation, so it needs full protection. In parallel with the main function, the blind area provides comfortable movement along the building and gives its external appearance completeness. Let's look at how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands in detail.

Blind area parameters

The dimensions of any construction structure and the rules for its arrangement are regulated by regulatory documents, in our case this is SNiP 2.02.01-83. The correct concrete blind area corresponds to the following indicators:

The installation of a blind area around the house is carried out in a certain sequence; the option with paving slab cladding is shown in the diagram below:

Types of structures

The scope of work on decorating the blind area around the house with your own hands varies depending on the type of structure chosen, which can be rigid, semi-rigid and soft. Let's look at the main advantages and pitfalls of each option.

Tough

This group includes monolithic concrete products. The finishing coating is poured concrete or asphalt.

Comment! If the protective structure is planned to be insulated, a rigid type of system is the only acceptable device option. It is not practical to organize insulation of semi-rigid and soft blind areas.

The operation of monolithic products continues throughout the service life of the building. But the construction of concrete protection around the house is accompanied by negative aspects:

• The process is labor-intensive and takes considerable time.
• High material costs.
• Asphalt pavement requires tar. It is practical to use this binder only in the case of large-scale asphalt paving work.
• In the absence of additional cladding, it does not have a sufficient decorative effect.

Semi-rigid

The protective underground layer of the semi-rigid system is represented by a multi-layer cushion. Decorative covering can be made from paving or ceramic tiles, paving stones. Sometimes reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones or porcelain stoneware are used for this purpose.

To fill around the house, much less labor and materials will be required than for a monolithic blind area. The technology of the device is simpler, but is unacceptable for heaving soil, which can cause deformation of the system. A comparative analysis of cost, quality and external characteristics makes the semi-rigid blind area a leader compared to other types of protection around the house.

Advice! The matching of the blind area made of paving slabs and other paved paths contributes to the formation of an aesthetic appearance of the personal plot.

Advantages of a semi-rigid structure around the house:

• If the technology of the device is followed, the service life is from two to three decades.
• There are no climate restrictions, with the exception of permafrost.
• It can be done with little financial investment.
• Easily amenable to preventative repairs.

Soft

To protect the foundation of a soft type around the house, you will need a multi-layer cushion covered with a layer of crushed stone on top. Similar design characterized minimal costs funds and time. But it will bring benefits for a maximum of seven years. It can be done in any region, but they resort to similar decision for installing temporary protection around the house in case of lack of finances.

A concrete blind area, made in compliance with all the rules, is presented in the following video:

Technology for manufacturing concrete blind area

Installing a protective structure made of concrete around a house begins with the purchase of materials. For these purposes you will need:

• Cement. It is optimal to choose the M500 brand.
• River or quarry sand without impurities that can spoil geotextiles.
• Crushed stone fraction from 5 to 10 mm.
• Natural clay or geotextiles will help you create a hydraulic lock around your house.

Site preparation

Excavation work to create a blind area around the house begins with removing the top layer of soil. The use of herbicides will help eliminate vegetation activity under a concrete structure. To make an accurate designation of the boundaries of the blind area relative to the edge roof slope, use a plumb line. To mark around the house, the rope is pulled onto stakes. In addition to the corners, to avoid sagging, they are installed at intervals of 5-6 m. Installing beacons on the base around the house at intervals of 1.0-1.5 m will help to create the correct angle of inclination of the blind area.

Hydraulic lock

A hydraulic lock can be made using a layer of fatty clay, the thickness of which is 10-15 cm. A waterproofing material - roofing felt, geotextile, PVC film - serves as a complete replacement. The film will maintain its integrity if you protect it with a sand layer 5-10 cm thick, located under and on top of the material.

Attention! The sand under the future blind area must be leveled, moistened and compacted.

The installation of the material should be done correctly without tension, so that it can move around the house along with the soil. When constructing a hydraulic lock with clay, only one sand layer is formed.

Shaping the pillow

Next, according to the technology of the device, it is necessary to make a pillow around the structure of the blind area. Initially, an embankment of crushed stone 5-10 cm thick is formed. The use of material of different fractions ensures better compaction. Gravel or broken bricks can be a substitute for crushed stone. If it is located close to the groundwater area, between sand and crushed stone, it is necessary to make an additional waterproofing layer of geotextile. The edges of the material should extend onto the formwork.

The optimal thickness of the sand layer is 10-15 cm, taking into account high-quality compaction. The work can be done manually; a vibrating plate can facilitate the labor-intensive process. Periodic wetting with water increases density sand cushion for a blind area around the building.

Important! The formation of a cushion around the house takes place with strict observance of the angle of inclination of the concrete blind area.

A well-arranged blind area around the house with your own hands contains high-quality drainage. The following design can cope with the task of drainage:

• Around the house you need to make a trench about 20 cm wide and 10 cm deep.
• The recess is filled with crushed stone or lined with a drainage pipe.
• The pipe is laid with a slope to ensure complete drainage.

At the same stage, storm water inlets are being installed around the house.

Installation of formwork

It is better to make formwork around the house from boards 30-40 mm thick. The height depends on the size of the concrete blind area. If dismantling of the structure is not planned, the boards are treated with an antiseptic solution, and it is also advisable to waterproof them using roofing felt.

Correctly make the formwork around the building for a concrete blind area using a level. Stakes driven in from the outside can neutralize the impact of the bursting solution. Angles on bolts with a diameter of 10 mm will help to fix the formwork structure at the corners. In order for the blind area to have an attractive appearance upon completion of the work, it is necessary to make the internal seams of the formwork boards invisible.

Important! To make a blind area around the building correctly, you will need to create an expansion joint.

The seam is located at the junction of the walls of the structure and the blind area, as well as across the system. The absence of this element will cause cracks to appear in the concrete protective structure. It is necessary to make transverse seams with an interval of 2 m. Create gaps the right size 20 mm thick boards will help. If pouring concrete for the blind area around the building is not planned, the stage of arranging the formwork is excluded.

Installation of insulation

The following algorithm of actions will help to ensure high-quality insulation of the blind area:

• Sheets of foam plastic are tightly laid around the structure, and bricks are used as temporary fixation.
• The space between the plates is filled with polyurethane foam.
• After it dries, the protruding parts are removed with a sharp knife.
• On top of the foam plastic, it is necessary to make a second layer of thermal insulation for the blind area made of concrete in the form of polystyrene foam slabs.

Reinforcement and pouring concrete

To ensure the strength of the concrete blind area around the building, reinforcement is required. The mesh size is 25 cm. The use of chain-link mesh is not recommended due to the excessive flexibility of the material. If there is no insulation layer, the reinforcement frame is placed above the blind area cushion at a height of 2-3 cm. This design contributes to the high-quality distribution of the concrete solution.

The key to pouring concrete is to ensure that the solution is evenly distributed and there are no air bubbles. “Bayoneting”, which is best done with a metal rod, will help eliminate voids. While drying cement composition it is periodically moistened with water to avoid cracks. Also, a blind area cast from concrete can be covered with a film to slow down the evaporation of moisture and uniform hardening of the protective structure around the house.

Conclusion

To protect the concrete blind area, you can make it iron-plated. There is dry and wet method processing. As an option, apply a primer to the surface, liquid glass or enamel.

To make the protective concrete structure around the building decorative, it is preferable to make cladding. As suitable material tiles (clinker or paving), natural stone, pebbles. In such a situation, concrete acts as a binding solution.

Another option on how to make a reliable blind area around a building is presented in the following video: