home > Landscape > How to putty walls with minimal effort and maximum effect. How to putty walls - getting a perfectly smooth surface Do-it-yourself starting putty

How to putty walls with minimal effort and maximum effect. How to putty walls - getting a perfectly smooth surface Do-it-yourself starting putty

When planning a major renovation in an apartment or house, as well as when moving into a new home that does not have finishing, you will definitely have to decide on putting the walls in order. Of course, you can invite a team of builders and pay them a decent sum, sometimes without even having a guarantee that the work was done efficiently. However, in order to be sure that all the finishing layers applied to the walls will not fall off in a couple of weeks, it is better to carry out all the construction processes on your own, naturally, having studied their technology in advance.

- not such a simple task as it seems at first glance. It is possible to level the walls to perfection only after you become skilled in the process of applying the compounds to the surface. Therefore, before starting such work, after reading the instructions, it is recommended to practice on small areas of the wall that are not in plain sight, for example, in places that are guaranteed to be covered by large furniture

Which putty should I buy?

Puttying walls should not be considered a secondary process that can be skipped. If it is not carried out efficiently, then all surface irregularities will appear through any finishing coating, be it wallpaper, decorative plaster or painting.

Puttying is usually the final process in preparing walls for any decorative coating. The main task is to achieve an almost perfectly flat and smooth surface by using a thin layer of putty on the surface of the walls, filling existing flaws and eliminating unevenness. To obtain the desired result, two types are used - starting and finishing.

The composition of the starting putty includes a mixture of dry coarse materials. This solution is used to pre-treat the wall, leveling out the most serious defects and at the same time creating good foundation for applying the finishing layer.

The finishing mixture is made from a fine powder, most often gypsum. Subject to technology preparation of the composition, timing and correctness of its application, it is possible to make the surface of the walls of the room perfectly smooth.

Sometimes, to tidy up walls, universal mixtures are used, which are suitable for both initial, rough leveling and finishing, that is, one composition is applied in several layers.

The putty can be purchased dry or ready-to-use. Ready-made compositions, of course, are easy to use - they are produced on oil-adhesive, drying oil, latex, polymer and other bases. But they have not gained much popularity among private craftsmen due to their rather high cost, which is not affordable for everyone.

But dry putty mixtures are available for sale in a wide variety, so much so that you can even get confused at first. Some parameters of putties are summarized in the table presented to the reader. You should get acquainted with each composition in more detail directly when choosing, reading the instructions included with each package.

Name indicator	Established standards for brands
	LS 10/90	LS 35/65	LS 50/50	LS 65/35	Fine Coat 50/50	Termonite	For blocks
Recommended thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10
Recommended water consumption in l/25 kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7
Ultimate compressive strength, MPa, not less	16	8	4	2	4	6	20
Ultimate bending strength, MPa, not less	2	2	1	1	1	3	3
Adhesion (adhesion) to the base, MPa, not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5
Medium density. solution kg/m3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13
Notes:
LS 10/90 belongs to the category of adhesive compounds;
LS 35/65, 50/50, 65/35 and block putty – leveling compounds;
"Fine Coat 50/50" and "Termonite" - finishing compounds

When purchasing putty, you need to consider and study its packaging, paying attention not only to its characteristics, but also to the expiration date. If the material is expired, then you should not take it, since in this case the money will be thrown away. You should not buy putty mixture stored in conditions of high humidity, even if its expiration date has not yet expired. Wet packaging or packaging with obvious stains of dampness is a sure sign of a spoiled mixture.

It is recommended to purchase putty compositions for the starting and finishing layers made by the same company, as they provide good mutual adhesion and compatibility, which will allow you to obtain a better result.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Materials and tools

It is very important to prepare well for work so as not to be distracted during the process due to a lack of any material or necessary tool.

So, for work you will need:

Starting and finishing putty mixtures.
Primer composition.
A plastic container for mixing putty, if it is purchased dry.
Special paint bath for working with primer.
Construction roller and two brushes - wide and narrow. They are necessary for applying primer in hard-to-reach places, such as corners or behind radiators.
Spatulas:

- wide 500 ÷ 600 mm or even 700 ÷ 800 mm - for applying the finishing layer of putty;

- narrow 100 ÷ 150 mm - for taking putty from a container and applying it to a large spatula, as well as for leveling the composition in corners.

- corner - for leveling corners when puttingtying them.

Rule for controlling the evenness of the wall.
Drill and mixer attachment for mixing the mass.
An electric sander (vibrating or eccentric) or a hand float for rubbing and sanding the applied putty.
A spotlight or hand-held light to identify poorly aligned areas on a wall.
Construction knife.

Preparing walls for puttying

Before applying putty, the wall must be carefully prepared. If there is old plaster or pieces of wallpaper left on it, they must be removed. You will also have to clean the wall of oil or water-based paint.

After removing the old coating, cracks or unevenness may appear on the wall. In order for the putty to lay flat and not crack after drying along the cracks, it is necessary to seal them.

— Before sealing detected cracks, they must be expanded as deep into the wall as possible so that they do not repeat their direction after applying the putty.

— After expansion, the crack is cleaned of dust and pieces of plaster - this process can be carried out using a small brush.

— Starting putty or sealant is applied to the dried crack. The repair mixture must be pressed as deep as possible into the crack, and the top should be leveled with the level of the wall surface.

— After the putty or sealant has dried, you need to go over the sealed crack with a float to finally level it with the wall.

If the wall is , then all its joints should be glued with fiberglass mesh, on top of which a thin layer of putty is applied. Holes from recessed self-tapping screw heads, which drywall is fixed to the wall or sheathing, must also be filled with a putty mixture, otherwise rust from them will appear through any decorative finish.

After the sealing joints have dried, they proceed to applying a primer with antiseptic properties to the walls. This layer will add additional strength to the surface, increase the adhesion of materials and extend the service life of the finish.

It is poured into a special tray, from which it is easy to take it onto a roller (brush) for application to the wall surface. It is very important to thoroughly treat all hard-to-reach places, otherwise it is from there that the putty may subsequently begin to peel off.

The primer applied to the walls must dry well.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Preparation of putty

If you purchase a dry mixture, then it must be prepared correctly, as it should be uniform in consistency and resemble thick sour cream.

To mix the mixture, a regular plastic bucket is suitable, into which water at room temperature is poured. Typically, a bag of putty weighing 25 kg requires 9.5 ÷ 10 liters of water, but to find out for sure, be sure to read the instructions before opening the bag with the mixture.

If the selected mixture is made on a gypsum basis, you should not knead it too much, since its “life” is very limited. The time for using the mixed solution can also be found in the instructions for its preparation.
After pouring the powder into the water, the mixture is mixed using a mixer attachment mounted in the drill chuck.

After the first portion of the mixed solution is used, the bucket and mixer must be rinsed thoroughly, otherwise the next solution may end up with solid inclusions left over from the first batch. It is clear that such an operation is repeated constantly throughout the entire work.

Applying starting putty

The starting putty is applied to the primed surface with a wide spatula, onto which the mixture is applied for convenience and evenly distributed with a small spatula.

from the corner and down up smooth movements without force pressing on the spatula, which should be held at approximately a 45 degree angle. It is this position that will help to apply the putty evenly, without leaving marks on it from the corners of the tool.

Putty strips are applied to the surface with an overlap, that is, the strokes should overlap each other by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After applying putty to a certain area, its evenness is checked using a rule. As a rule, carefully, without pressure, pass over the putty surface. The flat edge of the tool should collect the excess putty mixture and reveal obvious depressions. The flaws will be especially visible if the wall is illuminated with a light bulb in such a way as to create a moving shadow.

If differences are detected, you should once again go over the surface of the wall with a wide spatula to level them out. This can be done while the putty on the wall is still wet.

When applying the starting layer, you need to pay special attention to the corners, since they are always the “weak spot” when leveling the walls. Therefore, very often a special spatula in the shape of a right angle is used to level these difficult-to-plaster areas.

One of the most difficult techniques is aligning corners.

After applying the starting layer, the walls are rarely perfectly smooth, although this should be strived for. Small errors are allowed, which can be covered by the finishing layer.
After completing the application of the starting layer on all the walls of the room, you need to wait for it to dry - only then proceed to the first grout. Using an electric sander or a hand grater with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh attached to it, all unevenness from the coarse-grained starting mixture is removed from the surface of the walls. In addition, the grout will be able to smooth out small flaws left by the corners of the working surface of the spatula.

Grouting is carried out using movements along a spiral trajectory. You must be careful and try not to miss a single centimeter of the putty surface.

If, after grouting, irregularities deeper than 2.5 ÷ 3 mm are found on the illuminated wall, then a second layer of the same mixture is applied to the first starting one. It can be applied to the entire surface or only to individual areas where defects were found.

Final layer of putty

The finishing layer of putty is applied after the starting one has completely dried, according to the same principle - that is, from the corners and down up.

The mixture is also applied with a small spatula to a large one, distributed along its edge, and applied to the wall with clear movements with slight pressure. The layer of the finishing mixture should not be thicker than two millimeters, and the remaining excess putty and lines from the edges of the spatula are carefully stretched and smoothed by passing over them again.

To see all the defects at once, during the work process it is recommended to create combined lighting coming from several light sources, or use a mobile light bulb on a wire so that you can bring it to the wall being leveled from different sides. When creating such lighting, falling dynamic shadows will immediately reveal insufficiently aligned areas of the wall.
The finishing putty is applied in two layers. The second one is applied after the first one has completely dried.
When the second layer dries, it is rubbed in the same way as the starting one, using a grater or a special power tool with fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive (start with 200 grit and usually end with 400). If surface defects are detected, it is permissible to apply another finishing layer to individual areas.
It is very necessary to seal and sand the corners of the room, as the flaws will be especially noticeable there. To remove them, two spatulas are used - an angled one and a rubber one. The first one immediately forms a corner, and the second one gently smoothes out the excess putty.

After completing the filling and grouting work, the walls are covered with one or two more layers of primer, and only after that can decorative finishing be applied.

If the walls are planned to be leveled, then the process of applying putty must be approached with special care, since the surface must be leveled to perfection. If the room is decorated with wallpaper, then they are to some extent able to hide small defects, but when painting, the flaws, on the contrary, will appear - this must be foreseen and the choice of decorative coating must be decided in advance.

After completing all the work on leveling the walls with putty, all the tools that were used for the process must be thoroughly cleaned, rinsed and dried, since they will definitely be needed to tidy up other areas of the apartment.

To achieve the desired result when leveling the surface of walls with putty, it is recommended to follow some rules and recommendations. Some have already been mentioned in the article, but it makes sense to highlight them separately in the form of a final summary:

If you do not have sufficient experience in this type of work, you should not purchase large quantities of materials. To try whether you can do this work yourself, you can buy a small amount of putty by weight, learn how to prepare a solution and try a small section of the wall.

Having carried out such an experiment, it will be possible to immediately understand whether it is possible to carry out puttying of large surfaces, or whether it is still worth entrusting the work to professionals.

Work on applying and leveling the putty should be carried out under lighting from several lighting fixtures installed at different ends of the room.
The starting putty is applied with a thickness of no more than 4 ÷ 5 mm, since layers that are thicker can peel off, and there is also a high risk of cracks appearing on them.
Before applying each subsequent layer, you need to make sure that the previous one is completely dry. The drying period of the putty directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the level of humidity and temperature in the room.
It is prohibited to speed up the drying of putty walls by installing heating devices or creating a draft in the room, as these influences can lead to peeling of the applied composition from the walls.
After applying each layer, be sure to check all surfaces using the rule, making marks of places that require additional adjustments.
Get perfect straight corners This is only possible if a special spatula is used to level them.

And finally, a few words about precautions when carrying out such construction finishing works:

To putty walls and ceilings, it is necessary to prepare not only tools and material, but also suitable clothing and equipment. So, when working with putties, plasters, primers, and paints, it is imperative to protect your hair and skin.

A scarf is usually tied over the head, and as a work uniform you can use old clothes that cover the body as much as possible, which you don’t mind getting dirty. It is recommended to protect your hands with thick rubber gloves.

When carrying out troweling work, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes, since a lot of fine dust will fly. To do this you need to purchase hardware store respirator and special glasses.
If the walls in the room are high, you need to take care of a reliable, stable staircase or build trestles for this. It is preferable to have the latter, since they allow you to cover a large finishing area at once, and they do not have to be rearranged often.

And in conclusion, according to the tradition of our portal - a visual video lesson on leveling walls with putty:

Video: first steps in working with putty mixtures

It should be noted that leveling walls is, to some extent, even a creative process, but it is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, if there is no predisposition to such activities, then it is better not to take on it, but to entrust the implementation to professional plasterers. But if you have a great desire to try your hand and even save money, then it’s worth taking the risk and doing everything yourself.

Hello Dear blog readers! A huge number of people, before hanging wallpaper, wonder whether it is necessary to putty and prime the walls. Even, it seems, priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is easy to do, but are they really important and necessary? Is it worth spending your time and money? This is exactly what we will talk about next.

Summary of this article:

Why is it necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering?

Puttying the walls before wallpapering is necessary, first of all, to completely level the base of the walls. Thanks to this procedure, the wallpaper will lie evenly when hung and after drying, small tubercles and other irregularities will not appear, unlike an unprepared surface.

Also, the transparency of some modern types of wallpaper speaks in favor of puttingtying walls under wallpaper. If the walls were not prepared for wallpapering, then after the glue dries, you may see dark spots that were on the walls, and they will visually destroy all your repair efforts.

As you know, wall putty mixtures presented on the construction market are mostly light in color, most often even white. It is this property that will protect the wallpaper from various kinds transilluminations.

Then, plastering the walls gives a certain calm to the entire room, i.e. creates a good soundproofing effect (noise insulation).

In addition, putty walls create a strong, flat surface, with which the wallpaper will have the most reliable adhesion.

We must not forget about the good water resistance (waterproofing) of the walls after puttying. Putty walls repel moisture, which allows you to significantly save on wallpaper glue consumption when wallpapering.

Which is the best putty for walls under wallpaper?

Modern mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper differ in both external characteristics, and in its composition.

According to the external characteristics of wall putties, the division is as follows:

Mixtures in the form of a paste, which come ready-made and do not require further preparation.

Dry powder mixtures that require the addition of liquid during preparation.

According to their composition, mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper are divided into:

Polymer mixtures, or as they are also called acrylic (latex). They are easy to apply to the wall and can also be easily rubbed and sanded in the future.

Gypsum and cement mixtures. They are the best and most common. They are easy to use and very reliable. They require water to prepare.

Dispersed-aqueous mixtures. They have a very viscous consistency and are sold ready-made. The only disadvantage of using them is a slight shrinkage after complete drying.

Most suitable for correct and trouble-free filling of walls before wallpapering are cement and gypsum dry powder mixtures, because they are easy to apply, and, having the properties of repelling moisture after drying, do not react chemically with wallpaper glue, which is diluted with water when prepared.

What tool is needed to putty walls under wallpaper?

The first step is to select a container for mixing the solution. It should be both roomy and comfortable.

The power tool will need an attachment called a mixer. This is a special construction attachment, a bit like a kitchen whisk for a mixer or blender. It is with its help that it will be possible to achieve the desired consistency of the solution.

Also an important tool when puttingtying walls under wallpaper is a building level, with which you will be able to complete all the work smoothly. This can be either a laser version or water, oil, or alcohol.

If the wall surface is very uneven, then you will need to apply the mixture in a thick layer. Here the rule will come to the rescue - both wooden and metal will do.

Of course, you can’t do without spatulas of various sizes. In hard-to-reach places you will need small spatulas, and in spacious areas - large ones.

Brushes or rollers are also very important tools needed when plastering walls under wallpaper. With their help, a special primer will be applied to the surface of the walls. deep penetration.

Don't forget about sandpaper, the so-called sandpaper (emery). You definitely need to stock up on it, both fine-grained and coarse-grained. With its help, grinding, you will need to bring the putty walls to perfection.

A sandpaper clamp, or as it is also called a manual sandpaper, will also come in handy. With its help, it is much faster and more convenient to grout or sand putty walls.

Preparing the wall surface for putty

The process of preparing walls for applying putty can be divided into the following stages:

Removing a layer of whitewash from the walls. Don’t be surprised, many people still have a greasy layer of whitewash from Soviet times on their walls. To make it come off better, you need to moisten it with water, and after a while simply wipe it off with a large machine sponge; finish off difficult-to-remove areas with a spatula or scraper.

Cleaning the surface of the walls from the old layer of wallpaper. Here, too, you cannot do without moisture; you need to generously moisten a layer of old wallpaper with warm water, walking over it with a dampened roller. You can make small notches on the wallpaper so that they absorb water faster with something sharp. Next, after waiting a little, remove the wallpaper with a large spatula or scraper, starting from the joints.

Removing the old paint layer. Here you can simply mechanically scrape off the paint, but this is very labor-intensive and time-consuming. The most correct solution is heat treatment, i.e. heating the surface of walls with old paint with a gas burner or hair dryer. After heating, the paint swells and is easily removed with a scraper or spatula.

Primer of walls. Primer mixtures are very important - they create a dense film, the adhesion of subsequent finishing materials to which is very reliable. Also, primed walls are less susceptible to various types of fungi and dampness.

After quality implementation of all these preparatory stages your walls are completely ready to apply putty.

Working with starting wall putty: main points

The main points that need to be remembered and observed when starting to putty walls for wallpaper are the following:

To avoid cracking of the solution after drying, each layer of starting putty must be applied carefully, no thicker than 3 mm each.

The base of the walls for starting putty must be properly primed in advance, only in this way the adhesion will be as strong as possible.

The rough putty will sit even more firmly if you use a paint mesh underneath it. Thanks to it, it is possible to cover rather large wall defects when puttingty. It is very easy to putty on the mesh yourself; in addition, thanks to the painting mesh, putty is saved and its consumption is reduced.

A very smooth surface is contraindicated for starting putty, for example, drywall, which has a very smooth structure. You can immediately apply the finishing layer of putty on it; the starting layer will hold less firmly, because she likes a more porous surface structure.

After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.

After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.

Do-it-yourself wall putty using beacons for wallpaper

When you putty walls using beacons with your own hands under the wallpaper, these very beacons can act metal profiles, most often used for fastening plasterboard sheets, as well as any other convenient wooden or metal slats.

Initially, one strip is placed at the beginning and at the end of the wall, using a building level for accuracy - this can be either a laser level, a water level, or an alcohol level.

The slats themselves can be attached to the wall either using dowels with self-tapping screws, or using a gypsum mixture, which, after hardening, holds the beacons quite reliably.

Next, a very ordinary rope, or any other thread available on the farm, is pulled between the installed beacons. After this, a control check is again carried out by the construction level for the correctness of the resulting design for plastering the walls.

Then, intermediate beacons are installed at a distance of the length of the rule. It is along them that the rule will walk, leveling the putty from bottom to top.

When independently puttingtying walls along beacons, a starting putty is also used, each subsequent applied layer of which must be thoroughly primed with a deep penetration primer.

Finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper: instructions with photos

Doing the finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper is not so difficult. If you have coped with the starting putty, then the finishing putty will definitely not cause you any hassle or difficulties.

All work during finishing putty is, in principle, similar to work during starting puttying of walls, with the exception of one point - each subsequent layer of finishing putty should not be thicker than 2 mm, in contrast to the permissible 3 mm for starting putty.

The main condition for starting finishing putty is a well-prepared wall surface, i.e. all possible remnants of the starting mixture on the surface of the walls must be removed with a wide iron spatula, and the wall itself must be properly sanded and primed.

An ideal result when finishing puttying walls can be achieved by using several carriers with powerful light bulbs. By directing streams of light from several sides at the same time, you can understand from the shadows formed where the most uneven areas are.

And vice versa, if shadows do not form at all, then the finishing putty work can be considered perfectly completed. Next, you will need to minimally clean the surface with fine-grained sandpaper and apply a primer.

How to properly apply putty on walls with your own hands - technology for applying mortar under wallpaper

In order to correctly apply putty on the walls yourself before gluing wallpaper, you need to adhere to certain rules:

When working on puttying walls under wallpaper, it is necessary to use not one spatula, but two. One should be large and wide, the second small and comfortable. It is best to use a stainless steel spatula.

By using two spatulas, there is a significant saving in leveling solution, because the remaining mixture from a large spatula during application is picked up by a small one and put into action again.

The direction of movements of the hand with the spatula should be cross-shaped, i.e. After applying the layer from bottom to top, first smoothly turn it to the left, then go over the same place with a spatula again, only this time turning it to the right. With this cross-puttying, the surface of the walls turns out to be perfectly smooth in the end.

The leveling mixture must be applied with light, but at the same time smooth hand movements, preferably in one go. When applying, the spatula must be held at a slight angle (from 60 to 80 degrees, depending on the thickness of the required layer) so that the leveling mixture is evenly distributed over the wall.

The most common mistakes when plastering walls under wallpaper with your own hands

Here is a list of the mistakes that occur most often when plastering walls under wallpaper:

After applying the starting layer of putty, most people are too lazy not only to sand it, but to simply go over it with at least a wide spatula to knock off the remnants of the frozen mixture, then when applying the finishing layer it will all appear.

No priming of the starting layer of putty. Again, mostly due to laziness. Everyone thinks it will work that way.

There is no need to start puttying the walls from the corner. As a rule, the corners are the most crooked places on your walls. You need to step back a little from them and start putting putty on a flat wall surface. The corners must be drawn at the very end.

Dirty container for mixing the solution. Any excess that is in an unclean container after mixing the solution will drag along the wall during application and leave marks behind it.

Also, various particles of debris can get into the solution when mixing from a poorly cleaned mixer - a hammer drill attachment or a drill for stirring the mixture.

Very liquid solution. This mixture will simply flow down the wall. A consistency similar to thick sour cream is considered ideal.

Damaged or bent spatula. If a wide spatula has obvious damage, then you should not use it. You will not be able to achieve a perfectly flat surface with such a spatula.

Step-by-step and clear instructions for self-plastering walls under wallpaper

To properly perform the work of puttingtying walls under wallpaper yourself, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

Preparing the wall surface. At this stage it is necessary to remove all excess from the walls - old paint, wallpaper, any irregularities.

After the procedure for removing all unnecessary items, it is necessary to prime the walls with a deep penetration primer.

Next comes the application of the starting layer of putty. The maximum thickness of the applied mortar when starting to putty the walls should not exceed 1.5 cm. The applied mortar can consist of many layers, but in total it should not go beyond the thickness indicated above.

If another layer of putty is required to completely level the walls, then it is best to reinforce it with reinforcing mesh or paint mesh. The previous layer of putty is primed, after drying, a little mixture is applied to it, onto which the painting mesh is attached. Next, the necessary leveling layer of putty is applied on top of it.

Finishing corners, both external and internal. These angles can be adjusted with putty using a special coal spatula or an ordinary wide one.

Next comes the finishing putty of the walls. Before starting, the previous layers must be primed and cleaned again. The finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty, only in a smaller layer - up to 2mm.

As a result, the resulting putty surface is carefully sanded and sanded with light circular movements.

How to properly putty concrete walls under wallpaper with your own hands?

In order to correctly perform putty work for gluing wallpaper with your own hands on the concrete surface of the walls, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

Surface primer. Using a wide roller, a deep penetration primer is carefully applied to the surface of the concrete walls. After the soil has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the next step.

Next, pour the dry leveling mixture for wall putty into a clean container, take a hammer drill with a special mixer attachment, and thoroughly mix the mixture until the solution reaches a consistency similar to thick sour cream.

Using a small spatula, check the quality of the resulting mixture; if there are small lumps or compactions, continue mixing with a construction mixer until it is completely ready.

After thorough mixing, remove a small amount of solution from the container with a small spatula and distribute it evenly along the entire length of the wide spatula.

We apply a wide spatula with a leveling mixture to the surface of the concrete wall at a slight angle and begin to smoothly, without much pressure, move the spatula up to the left, then up and to the right - crosswise.

Using a small spatula, remove the remaining mixture from the large one, carefully arrange it again on the edge of the large spatula, and apply new portions of the solution evenly from the container along the remaining length.

We continue leveling the concrete walls until they are completely ready.

After drying, you can begin grouting (sanding) the walls. To do this, we put sandpaper on a sandpaper (a special clamp for sandpaper with a comfortable handle) and grind the surface of the concrete walls in a circular motion to an ideal result.

Puttying brick surfaces with your own hands for wallpapering

There are a number of consistent rules for puttingtying brick walls for wallpapering with your own hands:

Brick walls that are planned to be puttied must first be thoroughly primed. For this, it is best to use a deep penetration primer.

After the soil has dried, a starting solution for leveling is prepared. When finished, it should be similar to ordinary sour cream in consistency.

The prepared putty solution is evenly distributed over the surface of the brick wall in an even layer using a large spatula.

It is recommended to putty the entire brick wall at once in one sitting, i.e. from the beginning to the end. This results in the most uniform and smooth application of the mixture.

After the starting layer of putty has dried, a primer must be applied.

Next, we prepare the finishing solution for leveling the brick walls; its consistency should be slightly thinner than when preparing the starting mixture, because the finishing layer will be much smaller. The finishing putty is applied according to the same principle as the starting putty.

After the putty surface of the brick walls has completely dried, it must be sanded to a perfectly smooth result.

Finally, you can check the thoroughness of the surface by applying a rule. If it fits completely, leaving no gaps, then we can consider the job done with a bang.

Correct application of putty on wooden walls under wallpaper with your own hands

To properly apply putty with your own hands on wooden walls before gluing wallpaper, you must follow the following instructions:

Wooden walls, like any other, must undergo a priming process at the very beginning. The primer will ensure the strongest possible adhesion of the wood surface to the layers of putty. In addition, the soil protects the tree from the processes of rotting, aging and fungus formation.

After the primer layer has completely dried, the base (starting) putty is applied in a layer of up to 3 mm.

The dried starting layer is sanded with coarse sandpaper in a circular motion without strong pressure (it is best to use a manual sandpaper - an emery clamp).

Next, a deep penetration primer is applied on top of the sanded base layer of putty with a large roller, and in the corners of the room with a paint brush.

Next, one or two (if necessary) layers of the finishing solution, each no more than 2 mm thick, are applied to the dried base primed layer.

At the end of all the manipulations done, the finishing layer of putty is rubbed down with sandpaper and finally primed thoroughly.

After the surface has dried, you can safely begin gluing wallpaper on wooden putty walls.

Professional do-it-yourself drywall putty under wallpaper

putty plasterboard walls It is necessary to apply wallpaper for three reasons:

One day, wallpaper glued directly onto drywall will become obsolete, either morally or physically. This is where you won’t be able to simply peel them off - a layer of drywall will come off along with the old wallpaper.

If you have chosen light wallpaper for your interior and pasted it directly onto the drywall, be prepared to see through it all the fasteners of the drywall - the dark heads of self-tapping screws, screws, etc.

Again, if the wallpaper you choose for gluing is not dark, then its shade, when placed directly on the plasterboard sheets, will be slightly shaded and dull.

To professionally perform work on puttying walls under plasterboard wallpaper with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following rules:

Be sure to prime the drywall several times before applying putty, because... it absorbs the soil mixture very well.

You don’t have to apply the starting solution at all; it’s better to use the finishing mixture right away.

Next, you need to thoroughly recess all the heads of the screws into the drywall so that they do not interfere with the putty.

At the joints of plasterboard sheets, to avoid cracking, it is necessary to putty over the painting mesh.

After completing the finishing putty, the surface is thoroughly rubbed and primed.

After drying, you can safely stick the wallpaper onto putty drywall.

How to make smooth wall corners for wallpaper using putty yourself?

The work required to independently putty the corners of the walls in the room before wallpapering is carried out differently, depending on the type of corner. As you know, there are internal and external angles.

When puttingtying internal corners, you first need to level the adjacent surfaces that make up these corners as much as possible. To do this, apply the mixture with a wide spatula, starting from the corner, first on one side, then on the other.

After the mixture has dried in the corners, be sure to sand it first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then gradually using fine-grained sandpaper. You definitely need to use a skinner, because... Without it, work on aligning internal corners will be very difficult.

When you putty the outer corners of a room yourself, it is easiest to use special metal corners, which are freely available at any hardware store.

They have small holes along their entire length into which the mixture gets putty, which ultimately ensures the strength of the corner structure.

They are installed very simply - first, a little mixture is applied along the entire length with a spatula to the outer corner, then a metal corner is applied directly to the mixture, after which it is pressed, and the remaining protruding mixture is leveled with a spatula to the sides of both adjacent walls.

Making your own putty from a dry building mixture

In order to make quality putty, and most importantly on your own, for application to walls for wallpapering, from ready-made dry building mixtures, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

Next, you need to pour the required amount of dry mixture, which is indicated by the solution manufacturer on the packaging. Be sure to read these recommendations before starting work.

As a rule, it is advisable to make such a quantity of leveling mixture that it can be completely used up in about 35-45 minutes. Then the mixture will simply dry out and lose its properties.

Using a construction mixer, thoroughly mix the solution until a homogeneous mass, which should be similar in consistency to homemade sour cream.

The solution should not contain debris, various specks, lumps, etc.

Then you need to let the solution sit for about 15 minutes, then go over it again with a construction mixer.

Calculation of the required amount of putty for leveling walls under wallpaper

In order to make correct calculations for the required amount of putty when independently leveling walls for wallpapering, you must have the following data:

Number of windows and their dimensions

Room height

Condition of the wall surface - porous concrete walls may require many layers of putty, while plasterboard walls require a minimum number of layers.

As an example, let’s calculate the amount of putty for a room with the following characteristics:

Room dimensions – 2x3m

Number of windows - 1 with dimensions 2x1.5m

Room height – 2.5m

Number of doors - 1 size 2x1m

The condition of the wall surface is an almost flat, non-porous concrete surface.

First of all, we calculate the area of the walls of the room using the formula:

P = 2x(AxB+A1xB)-CxC1-DxD1

Below we will decipher the notations to make it clear what’s what:

P – area of the walls of the room

We multiply this part of the formula (AxB + A1xB) by 2, because the walls in our room are paired, i.e. two in parallel.

A and A1 – width and length of the room

B – room height

C and C1 – width and height of the window opening

D and D1 - height and width of the doorway

We substitute our data into the formula and get the following result:

P = 2x(2x2.5+3x2.5)-2x1.5-2x1 = 12.5m2

Next, we need to calculate how much starting putty will be needed to level the walls in a layer, for example 2mm thick. To do this, you need to pay attention to the packaging of the putty itself. There, the manufacturer clearly indicates the consumption of a mixture 1 mm thick per area of 1 m 2 - on average this is 0.8 kg. Knowing this, we can perform calculations using the formula:

K = РхЭхЗ

The breakdown of the indicators is as follows:

K – amount of putty

P – area of the walls of the room (already calculated above)

E – estimated layer thickness for leveling the walls

Z – mixture consumption indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging

We substitute our data into the formula and get:

K = 12.5x2x0.8 = 20kg

As a rule, putty is sold on construction markets in 25 kg bags, i.e. in our case, one bag will be enough, even with a small margin of 5 kg.

After this, we will calculate the amount of finishing putty required for the final leveling of the concrete surface, for example with a layer of 1 mm. Again, you need to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for mixture consumption on the packaging - on average for finishing putty it is 1 kg per 1 m 2 with a 1 mm layer. The finishing putty is slightly denser in structure than the starting putty, which is why the values differ.

We substitute our values into the same formula (K = РхЭхЗ) and get the following results:

K = 12.5x1x1=12.5kg

In this case, it is most likely more profitable to buy not a whole bag of finishing putty, but to take it in bulk with a reserve of 14 kg. This should be quite enough.

If you plan to apply the finishing putty in several layers, then you need to multiply the result obtained using the formula by the desired number of layers.

How to calculate the amount of primer needed when plastering walls under wallpaper?

When working on puttying walls for wallpapering in the future, you cannot do without primer compounds, which are sold in plastic and other containers of various sizes.

They come ready-made and do not require any manipulation for preparation. Simply, before use, shake the container with primer thoroughly and use it safely.

Most people, when they putty walls under wallpaper on their own, have a question: how much primer should you buy so that you are sure to have enough and not have too much left over?

All this can be approximately calculated independently. For calculations we need the following data:

Room dimensions - length and width

Number of windows and their dimensions

Room height

Number of doors and their sizes

For example, let’s calculate the required amount of primer in 2 layers for the same room for which we calculated the amount of required starting and finishing putty above.

The formula for calculating the required amount of primer is as follows:

G = РхЛхМ

The decoding of the designations is as follows:

G – required amount of primer

P – area of the walls of the room

L – primer consumption indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer

M – number of proposed primer layers

G = 12.5x0.2x2 = 5l

As a result, it turns out that for our room 5 liters of primer will be quite enough for high-quality preparation for putty.

What is the best primer to use when plastering walls under wallpaper?

In order to choose the best primer for self-puttying walls under wallpaper, you need to understand what it generally is and how it differs from each other. That is why we will briefly go over the types, characteristics and properties of various primers:

Primer with color pigments (pigmented). Working with such a primer is a pleasure. You can immediately see which areas are poorly primed and which are sufficiently primed.

Primer with mineral additives (mineral). It contains multiple mineral chemicals that are beneficial for your walls. It protects very well against fungal infections.

Primer with an antiseptic effect (antiseptic primer). Great for areas with high humidity, such as bathrooms, kitchens, etc. It does a very good job of preventing mold and mildew.

Acrylic primer. This is the most common type of primer used for all types of premises. Simply put, it is universal.

Having understood a little about the types of solutions for priming walls for wallpapering, we can conclude that the best and most universal primer specifically for use under wallpaper is an acrylic primer. If you choose her, you definitely won’t go wrong.

Are putty walls harmful to health?

Modern types of putties for leveling walls under wallpaper, like most building mixtures, consist of a number chemical elements, with the help of which the necessary viscosity, good adhesion, elasticity and elasticity are formed.

Many people are interested in the question of whether particles and vapors of these same chemicals will harm the respiratory and other organs, as well as the skin. auxiliary elements, included in dry construction mixtures for wall putty, if you inhale and touch them during the putty process itself and during the drying period of the walls?

If the manufacturer of the mixtures is a large and serious manufacturer that respects itself and other people, then its products are certainly subject to the necessary quality certification and do not pose any harm to the health of the people using it.

Moreover, certified putty is not only harmless to people, but it also does not harm the environment.

Therefore, it is best to purchase building mixtures for wall putty in large retail outlets, and always check for the necessary quality certificates. Certified putty and walls plastered with it will definitely not cause harm to your health and the health of your loved ones.

Video tutorial: do-it-yourself putty on walls under wallpaper

In conclusion of this article, I would like to state that priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is a completely feasible task. It is better not to neglect these procedures. Of course, you can apply wallpaper without putty or primer, but how long it will last in this case is unknown. Therefore, do everything wisely and according to the instructions. Great luck!

Below, leave your comments, wishes, ask questions, express your opinion - this is very important to us!

How to putty walls - this is the question most people who plan to carry out renovations in any room ask themselves. It is always more profitable to do at least part of the work yourself. Careful preparation of walls for subsequent finishing work means obtaining a perfectly smooth surface, without flaws or roughness. The article will tell you how to do this correctly.

It is not always necessary to putty the walls until they are completely smooth. For example, this should not be done if the wallpaper, after decorating the surface, hides small scratches from cleaning. Putty allows you to remove cracks and holes on the wall, level it well and, if necessary, bring it to a perfectly smooth state.

After that:

It is much easier to glue wallpaper on smooth walls than on curved ones. In this case, the glue will be absorbed evenly, and the risk of wrinkling of the canvas will be minimal.
Putty is used to remove various bumps from plastered walls that are visible in sunlight, which will make the surface pimply.

Tip: The instructions for puttying walls indicate: if the old putty crumbles after removing the wallpaper pasted on it, it must be completely removed and the surface must be puttied again.

Tools required for putty

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to purchase minimum set tools for work:

An electric drill with a mixer attachment. Usually putty is supplied in the form of a dry mixture, in which required quantities liquid is poured in - normal pure water. For ideal mixing of the putty mixture, a special mixer is used, which will allow you to obtain a homogeneous, sufficiently thick mass without lumps or pieces.

Set of spatulas of different widths. In the process of performing the work, you will need large and small tools. In hard-to-reach places, it is impossible to obtain a high-quality putty wall with a large tool; here it is necessary to use spatulas of small width.
Brushes and rollers for applying primer to wall surfaces. This stage cannot be skipped. After priming, a thin film appears on the walls, which significantly increases the strength of the wall and ensures high-quality adhesion of the treated walls, regardless of the type of facing material.
Rule. It may be necessary due to large uneven walls when applying putty in a very thick layer. To ensure high-quality leveling of a thick layer of putty, it is convenient to use a long metal rule.
Construction level, laser or spirit. Wall surfaces are often far from perfect. Before you putty the walls yourself, test beacons are installed, with constant monitoring using a laser or spirit level.
Sandpaper. To obtain a beautiful and very smooth surface, so that it is pleasant to look at, very fine sandpaper should be used during finishing rubbing; the ideal result would be sanding with number two hundred and forty sandpaper. To grind the initial starting putty, grouting should be done with coarse, coarse sandpaper.
. When using such a tool, sanding becomes more convenient. This special device, on the handle of which there are clips for fixing the skin, as seen in the photo.

Containers for preparing putty.
Brushes and rollers for priming walls.

Tip: Walls should always be primed. It provides a very thin film on the wall, which significantly increases its strength and improves the adhesion of materials.

How to choose the right putty

Which putty is better to putty on walls?

In composition they are:

Cement. They are more moisture resistant, but their big drawback is that they are too high level shrinkage.
Acrylic (see Acrylic putty - types, features, application). They have excellent adhesion to the base.
Polymer. They have good moisture resistance and do not shrink. The use of polymer putty allows you to obtain a high quality area after treating the wall. The high price is a significant disadvantage of the material.
Plaster(see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use). Such coatings do not shrink, their cost is low, they can be leveled perfectly, but they have low resistance to moisture, which limits the scope of their use.

According to the purpose of putty there are:

Leveling or starting. Have:

excellent adhesion of materials;
increased strength;
fairly coarse grain size.

Rough material is used to make them. This putty is quite convenient to use to remove large differences on the surface of walls, to hide existing holes and grooves. For the first time, you can easily apply a layer up to one and a half centimeters thick.

Repeated layers are applied after the previous ones have completely dried. The maximum result can be achieved after installing a special painting mesh to evenly distribute the putty.

The advantages of this technology are that it allows layers of putty to be laid perfectly evenly. In this case, the surface will be more even and quite durable. The coarser the material of the painting mesh, the smoother the surface of the walls after processing.

Lighthouses. Such materials are not much different from leveling putty. The only difference is the use of beacons. A lighthouse is a rod made of:

gypsum;
metal;
tree.

The part is positioned strictly vertically, which is controlled by a level. The beacons to the walls are fixed to a gypsum mixture, which dries quite quickly, and then puttying is performed directly. This is how the wall is aligned along horizontal lines. For leveling applied layers putty is used as a rule.

Using these recommendations, after completing the starting work, you can get a flat surface, which is controlled by the level. Due to the high cost, this type of putty is used quite rarely, and visually they are almost the same.

Universal. Combine positive properties starting and decorative mixtures. Their cost is relatively high, but their properties are inferior to other coatings. It is better to use for leveling walls that do not have large defects.

Finishing or decorative(see DIY decorative plaster: how to do it right). After applying the lighthouse or starting composition, a finishing coating is performed, which gives the surfaces ideal smoothness and eliminates pores and the smallest cracks.

During renovations, you often have to choose not only furniture or wallpaper, but also finishing materials that will make the walls look harmonious. Putty – indispensable element when leveling the side surfaces of a room for the purpose of subsequent wallpapering or applying other decorative compounds.

Putty is designed to eliminate roughness and cracks in the wall, as well as to seal them.

If you choose a special putty with hydrophobic or antifungal polymer components, you can also protect the walls from damage and swelling.

Peculiarities

Most often, putty consists of one main element such as cement, gypsum or acrylic with the addition of fine particles for better penetration into a surface of any texture. A more expensive option is polymer-based composite compositions, which have a number of advantages, thanks to which puttying occurs much faster and more efficiently. They are more expensive, but will last 5 years longer.

There are separate compositions for interior work in residential and commercial premises, as well as for outdoor repairs. To choose the right material, you need to clearly understand which building elements require the mixture. If you want to putty with equally high quality both inside and outside, both the facade of the house and the window opening, you can purchase universal putty

, which is the most expensive in its line. Putty is sold in different states of aggregation - both in the form dry mixture , which needs to be bred independently, and in form of a ready-to-use creamy suspension

. The dry version lasts longer, and only it can be brought exactly to the consistency required for sealing a specific wall. There is less hassle with the ready-made mixture, and there is also no risk of adding excess water and turning the putty into a liquid mush. There are also no clouds of white dust that leave marks everywhere when the dry mixture is poured into another container.

The disadvantage of the already diluted version is twice the price and shorter long-term storage. Another last option causes serious shrinkage when applied in a thick layer of more than 5 mm. There are several stages in the putty process, and each stage of application requires different materials. There are starting putty and finishing putty.

Despite this clear advantage over other finishing materials, you still shouldn’t go overboard with adding putty build-ups - with a layer of more than 30 mm, lag from the surface or swelling may begin even under the wallpaper. So that after long work The shrinkage of the putty layer has not begun, it is better to apply it to the wall in several stages. Apply a rough coat first and let it dry for at least half a day. Afterwards, you can leave a few more finishing layers on the wall one by one.

This technology will ensure the durability of the finish even in rooms with complex wall topography.

If you don’t skimp on putty and purchase high-quality products from Western manufacturers, then it will be easy and convenient to work with. Polymer-based compositions usually apply smoothly, dry fairly quickly and do not have a pungent odor. The last characteristic is important when decorating interior living spaces, especially bedrooms or children's rooms. For special or technical rooms, putties with qualities such as the ability to withstand sudden temperature changes, as well as high humidity or the formation of steam, are suitable.

Possessing high plasticity, the putty allows you to apply several thin layers one after another to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. Also after drying over putty you can use varnish, oil paint or acrylic composition on water, and not be afraid that water will dissolve the top layer. Even under unfavorable climatic conditions good putty should not shrink or crack, then the wallpaper will not peel off ahead of time.

Slight discomfort may be caused by the fact that when sanding the wall with a special grinder or other equipment after the putty has dried, you can inhale toxic dust. Experts recommend working at the final stage of leveling in protective mask to avoid damage to the respiratory tract or burns to the cornea of the eye.

Fine dust, so effective in creating perfect flat wall, spoils sandpaper, quickly eating into the structure of the sandpaper with its particles. Considering this fact, it is necessary to stock up on a sufficient amount of sandpaper, and the putty process will be productive.

Types of putty

The classification of putty mixtures is made according to the basic active substance in their composite composition:

Oil and glue based putty considered the most economical option. At the same time, it resists high humidity and vaporization very well. It can also be subsequently coated with paint, but only on a similar oil base. This mixture is more suitable for technical premises such as basements, warehouses or boiler rooms, where aesthetic appearance is not important, but the hydrophobic functions of the putty are necessary.

A wooden surface after applying plaster is also perfect for filling with an oil composition.

This material is not suitable for subsequent wallpapering or painting with enamels, varnishes and acrylics - it will begin to swell and quickly absorb into the base soil.

Cement based putty It is used mainly for technical premises where there is no constant heating, as it can withstand temperature changes and high humidity well. These qualities are also indispensable when finishing a kitchen or bathroom, where finely dispersed water suspensions often settle on the putty surface.

The main disadvantage of cement putty is poor elasticity, due to which shrinkage of the material occurs when multiple layers are applied. If the technology is incorrect, cracks may appear on the walls or joints after shrinkage.

Gypsum-based putty- a very capricious material, since it is poorly resistant to a humid environment and temperature changes; it swells and peels off from the base in such conditions. But plaster perfectly levels even the most textured wall, creating a soft porous film on the surface. This putty can be applied as the last decorative layer, because it is absolutely harmless after drying and gives a noble matte white shade.

The undoubted advantage of this putty is low price, therefore, the gypsum base is most often used in the repair of residential and office premises. For an environment with constant heating and moisture content within normal limits, gypsum putty will be an ideal option.

Acrylic or water-based putty– the safest for use in residential premises, because water does not harm human health. It has good ductility and viscosity, so it ideally fills small cracks and chips in walls, leaving an even layer that is pleasant to the touch.

You can paste wallpaper onto acrylic or paint the putty with acrylic paint of a similar composition. It dries quickly and does not emit a pungent odor. The disadvantage of acrylic putty is its reduced moisture resistance. Therefore, it is better to use it in rooms with a constant temperature and lack of water vapor.

Polymer-based putty– the most high-tech and at the same time the most expensive of all the above products. Thanks to the composite base, this composition combines the entire range of advantages for leveling walls. The polymer base is highly elastic, so it is often used as a finishing layer to hide unevenness and small cracks left after the initial application.

It dries quickly, is easy to apply and economical to use, which slightly compensates for its rather considerable cost.

The quality of the treated surface after polymer putty is much higher than after cement or oil putty, and it will last longer. This putty is used not only under wallpaper, but is also simply left without additional layers as a textured untreated surface with the effect of antiquity and scuffs. It is also used when, after the putty layer, it is necessary to apply a thin material, for example, decorative plaster or wallpaper in silk-screen style.

Another equally popular classification is the division of putties according to the order of application of layers:

Starting putty or a surface-leveling primary layer. The structure of this putty is very rough, but it itself is dense and highly durable. The first layer comes into contact with the untreated wall, on which, in addition to moisture, grease and dirt, particles of previous paint and paper layers, as well as construction waste. Even when applying putty over the plaster layer, it is impossible to be sure that all of the above flaws were hidden by the plaster layer. The main task of the starting putty is to fill deep cracks and chips in the wall, so it is applied in a fairly thick layer - about 15-20 mm.

Due to its granular structure, this material has good adhesion or the ability to adhere to the surface. Starter putty is relatively inexpensive, so many people decide to save money and leave the surface as is, without applying extra finishing layers. This is wrong, since the very structure of the starting putty does not allow the wall to be perfectly smooth, but only prepares it for the next layer with leveling functions. The longer you allow each individual layer to dry before applying the next one, the better the preparation of the surface for wallpapering will be.

Mayachnaya putty- unfamiliar material for the Russian consumer, since he simply does not understand its difference from the starting one. In terms of composition and final result, lighthouse and starting putties are not very different from each other, but the first option can be used as an intermediate layer between the beginning and the finish.

Wooden or metal slats serve as beacons, placed on the sides of the puttying area to guide the evenness of the walls.

They are glued to the gypsum mixture. After hardening, it hardens well, and then comes off the surface just as well, leaving no marks. Similar material less grainy than starting putty, so it primes the surface better. The price of lighthouse putty is significantly higher than the starting price, so if you have a limited budget, you can do without this technology.

Universal putty- an option for the lazy, because it combines the properties of both starting and decorative mixtures. It is suitable for those who want to quickly complete repairs and are sure that they will not understand the intricacies of applying different types of putty to each other. Despite the noticeably higher cost than the above options, its properties are inferior to both starting and finishing putties. The universal mixture is not so granular in structure, so its adhesion is not so great, and it is less plastic, so it can only be used for walls without obvious irregularities.

Finishing layer

To learn how to properly putty walls in an apartment, you need to understand that the finishing layer is one of the most important stages this process. For these purposes, it is better to buy a can of finishing putty. It is not intended for leveling deep cracks and chips, because layers of starting and light putty have already been applied before.

If the first few applications were performed poorly, then finishing putty is unlikely to correct the situation. Its main purpose is to create a smooth surface, on which it is then convenient to glue wallpaper or attach other decorative elements. This composition must be applied in as thin a layer as possible - no more than 5 mm. The strength of the finishing putty is much lower than the starting putty, so it must be applied very carefully, filling only small recesses and chips in the wall.

The second name for finishing putty is decorative, which means it can be used as the final element of surface finishing. It adds texture to a perfectly smooth wall, especially if gypsum or polymer fillers are used. In modern loft interiors and art spaces, this technique is not uncommon.

The walls there are often left covered in a layer of uncleaned and unleveled putty, sometimes even with chips deliberately gouged out in it.

Criterias of choice

In order to choose the right putty and not have to redo the repair later, you need to clearly understand for what purposes and types of work it is intended:

It is better to purchase products from trusted putty manufacturers, for example, German. It is in Germany that all building materials undergo an increased degree of testing for safety in domestic use and compliance with environmental standards. IN Lately More and more worthy domestic representatives began to appear in stores - they are several times cheaper than their foreign counterparts. And the instructions in Russian are easier to understand.
By simultaneously purchasing putty and related materials that will come into contact with it, for example, primer, check that the composition and manufacturers are similar or identical. If you incorrectly select soil, putty and plaster in tandem, then their incompatibility in composition can ruin the entire repair.

Read the instructions carefully, because it should indicate for what area and for what purposes this or that modification of the putty is intended. You should clearly distinguish between the composition of the starting, lighthouse and finishing putties and choose at least two different options for layer-by-layer application. Blend for interior spaces, for example a bedroom or office, is not suitable for treating the facade of a house or sauna.
Think in advance what will need to be done with the wall after puttying, because the choice of material depends on this. To putty under wallpaper, it is better to buy a dry mixture and dilute it yourself with water in proportions corresponding to the texture and thickness of the wallpaper. If you dilute the putty with water, it may not dry completely, and then simply wet the wallpaper. When you intend to paint a wall after puttingty, it is better to use a ready-made formula, because it is better compatible with paint and varnish products.

If possible, you can Carefully open the container with the prepared putty mixture and check the composition for the absence of bubbles or foreign large particles and suspensions. It would also be a good idea to smell the putty, because it tends to deteriorate, and along with it the smell also deteriorates.
To apply putty in extreme conditions of temperature changes or high humidity, you need to make sure that the instructions contain all the necessary conditions.

You need to understand exactly what temperature jump the putty will withstand, as well as for what class of work it can be used.

Instead of several finishing coating options, you can buy one container of universal putty. This will be more economical in cases where a finishing layer is needed both inside the building and on the external surface.

Required Tools

Puttying walls does not require a huge number of expensive professional tools, so this type of repair can be easily carried out independently. Most of the elements are available in every hardware store, and their total cost should not exceed 3,000 rubles.

Directly for applying putty it is necessary set of spatulas- three pieces is enough. The average size– about 20 cm in length – suitable for small areas around door slopes and window openings. A large fifty-centimeter tool is convenient to use when putting putty on the main surfaces of the walls. The smallest spatula in the set is simply indispensable for hard-to-reach areas and corners.
Primer mixture, as well as rollers and brushes for priming walls, After all, for high-quality preparation of the surface for putty, you cannot do without the above tools. The principle of the relationship between the primer zone and the size of the roller is the same as for spatulas.

Rule- a special tool like a large one metal slats with a grooved structure, thanks to which you can hold on to the ledge and guide the tool along the wall. The rule is used to level the surface when applying a very large layer of putty.
Sandpaper or sandpaper. It is also better to take a set of two or three different sizes, because here the skins will differ in the degree of corrugation of the surface. Each layer of putty requires its own sandpaper to achieve the smoothest possible wall.

For convenience, you can buy skinner- a device with a handle into which a piece of sandpaper is inserted. This tool is inexpensive, but it is much more convenient for sanding large surfaces of walls.
If you purchase a dry putty mixture, it is better to take care of it in advance. large capacity, in which you can dilute the putty with water. You don’t have to buy the container specifically from the store—any old, unnecessary jar will do.

It's better to choose plastic container, because it will be disposable.

Drill with a special mixer attachment for stirring dry putty mixture is not included in the minimum set of necessary tools, and it is not cheap. If you don’t have such a device at home, you can rent one. Of course, you can try to mix the putty manually using a stick, but you will have to mix it for a long time, and the result will leave much to be desired. For high-quality application of putty, it must be diluted to a homogeneous creamy mass without lumps.
Laser level– also an additional convenience that is not included in the inexpensive minimum set. You can either borrow it from your neighbors or buy it for future use, as it will be useful for subsequent repairs. The device is installed in a corner like a beacon, and then the beam shows even minimal unevenness on the surface due to the application of a too thick layer of putty.

Surface preparation

The wall does not need to be specially prepared for putty, the main thing is that it is clean and as smooth as possible. First, you need to mechanically clean it of previous layers of wallpaper, newspapers, paint or plaster. If you can't remove everything by hand, use sandpaper. Separately, you should pay attention to stains of grease or soot and wipe them off with white spirit.

To apply putty, the wall surface must be at room temperature. If an unheated temporary shed or other technical room is being repaired, it is better to either wait until summer, or heat or warm the walls with a burner.

You can apply putty directly to the cleaned wall, but for better adhesion of materials it is recommended to lay a primer as an intermediate layer. You can dilute the soil in the same container, which will then be used for the putty solution. Use a roller to completely cover the wall with soil, applying it in one dense layer of about 5 mm. You can let it dry for 6-8 hours and repeat the procedure, or you can limit yourself to one application. Multilayer soil is only good for finishing outdoor spaces with unstable climatic conditions.

How to level walls with putty?

You need to prepare for puttying. Before starting work, prepare all the tools necessary for this process, because the mixture tends to harden and deteriorate, so you need to work extremely quickly:

To start you need to make a ready-to-use putty from the dry mixture. The technique here is simple, but if you do everything sloppy, the wallpaper will begin to peel away from the walls within a month. It is better to dilute the putty composition in small portions for each section of the wall or ceiling separately.

Otherwise, the mixture may dry out in places and solids will lie unevenly on the surface.

First, add a little water to the container with putty and mix with a simple spatula. The next step is to bring everything to a homogeneous consistency using a drill with a mixer attachment. Its blades are made of special steel, and they rotate with a certain force, which helps them not get stuck in the viscous composition of the putty.

The ideal consistency of the putty mixture is an elastic mass that slightly sticks to the spatula. If the composition is liquid and flows rather than sticks, then gradually add the dry mixture there. When the surface is covered with lumps or bubbles, it is too thick, and you need to slowly pour water into the composition in small portions.

The first layer of putty is the starting layer, is a separate species, so carefully read the names on the jars of the mixture and do not confuse it with the finishing one. At this stage, you can safely use the largest spatula from the set, without fear of leaving uneven stripes or joints, because the finishing layer will easily cover all the flaws.

It is better to apply the mixture in small portions and distribute it evenly over the area, and not dump a large lump on the wall, and then smear it at different ends. The spatula should be held at a slight angle - no more than 30C, then the material will lie more evenly. The strip of mixture itself is usually applied diagonally in one sharp movement. Individual strips are laid overlapping each other to avoid bumps and uneven joints between layers.

Slopes and joints are processed with a special spatula or corner. The main thing here is not to make unnecessary movements. Remember that the less putty you apply in the corners, the smoother the surface will be. First, the mixture is applied with a small spatula along the entire slope or corner on each side, and then the wall is simply leveled with a corner spatula. The corners are usually treated last, after which the wall must be allowed to dry for at least a day before applying the next layer of putty.

For perfect adhesion and reliability of all repairs, some craftsmen Between each layer of putty a layer of primer is laid. This method is more labor-intensive, it takes from 2 to 4 days, since each layer of putty and primer takes about 12 hours to dry.

But the wallpaper on such a wall should last longer, and less fungus will form.

The finishing layer of putty is the most important, because it is responsible not only for evenness, but also for the smoothness and even glossy properties of the surface. It is applied in several thin layers of no more than 2 mm each, allowing each layer to be evenly absorbed into the soil and dry. When working, large and small spatulas are constantly used in pairs. The finishing putty is denser and more viscous than the starting putty, so it is applied first with a small spatula on a large one, and then on the wall.
The final stage is considered grinding dry surface with sandpaper. It will eliminate even the smallest irregularities.

How to apply?

Puttying walls and ceilings with your own hands is not a very difficult task that can be handled by a person who does not have professional skills in the field of construction and finishing work. The main difference between this type of finish is the number of layers applied. For puttying for subsequent wallpapering, one starting and one finishing layer of the composition will be enough. If the wallpaper is very thin, then it is better to play it safe and lay a third layer of putty or primer.

When preparing a wall for subsequent painting, you need to be more careful and leave the surface perfectly smooth, because a painted wall will not be able to hide even the smallest irregularities. In this case, after each layer of putty, you need to go over it with a roller with a primer to avoid wrinkles and air bubbles.

The most effective way Application is recognized as a mechanized method, when the putty is applied using a special apparatus. This technology can significantly save both time and effort of the employee. The surface processed mechanically is smoother and of higher quality. And the solution inside the device is constantly mixed during operation, so it does not harden until dry lumps form and, with such a fine-grained structure, it adheres better to the surface.

The application itself in a continuous stream under strong pressure allows the putty to be distributed evenly over the entire wall, resulting in a smooth surface. A special dispenser distributes the putty mixture in a very thin layer, which is almost impossible to achieve manually. And the joints between individual strips when working with a regular spatula are visible even to the naked eye, while the hardware method creates a solid surface.

Putty material is also saved due to strict dosage.

The machine itself for mechanized putty is quite bulky, so it’s simply impossible to turn around with it in a small fifteen-meter room. It is more often used either for large industrial and office premises, or for rooms in a house with an area of at least 30 square meters. Its main convenience is the presence of an automatic mixer for stirring the putty and a compartment for water supply.

You don’t have to worry that the mixture will be too liquid or dry, because the automation will bring everything to the desired consistency. Some models are equipped with a powerful compressor, with which air is supplied to the compartment with the mixed mixture so that the composition is saturated with oxygen and has better adhesion.

The control panel sets the speed and intensity of the jet with the putty mixture, as well as the speed of the process of mixing the composition. However, even a mechanized system requires compliance with basic rules:

The jet must be sprayed from a distance of at least 30 cm from the surface, otherwise with such force it will simply splash in different directions when it hits the wall.
A layer of putty begins to be applied from the corner of the room to create a uniform, smooth surface without joints or gaps.
The resulting solution is distributed at a right angle to the wall, otherwise the stream will not cover the surface being treated, but the worker.

It is necessary to putty in protective clothing and a mask or respirator, because from any careless movement a jet with a rather caustic composition, pushing off from the wall, can get into the eyes or respiratory tract.
A mechanized putty machine is quite powerful equipment that requires a lot of energy. It is better to connect it to a socket securely fixed in the wall with wiring without sudden changes in electricity.
The water supply hose involves connecting the device to a stationary water supply. This possibility is not always available; for example, it is not available on summer cottage, where water can only be in a barrel. In such cases, they try to simply use a large tank of water, but this is not the most convenient way.

The device requires a fairly large amount of water, so you will often have to interrupt the puttying process to replenish the container again.

Also, a vat of water is not so mobile that a person can move with the apparatus around the entire perimeter of a large room.

Even when using an automated system and obtaining the smoothest putty surface possible, you should not neglect fine sandpaper when finishing sanding after the base layer of putty has dried. If the room is large enough, purchase grinder to minimize mechanical labor. However, the manual sanding process should be no worse in quality than with a machine.

The main and only disadvantage of mechanized equipment is its high price. Typically, such a machine is in the arsenal of teams constantly engaged in repair work. One-time use is not worth such expenses, and to store such a large machine you will then have to allocate an entire pantry. The best solution is to hire a third-party team of craftsmen or rent the device on a daily basis.

Another alternative to expensive equipment can be a regular spray gun. Of course, the speed and pressure of its jet are not as strong as those of a mechanized device with a powerful motor, and the surface will not be so smooth. In any case, even a spray bottle will apply putty much better than a regular spatula.

Unfortunately, the sprayer does not mix the putty composition itself, so you will have to take a drill with a mixer attachment. This option is no different in terms of mobility, because the putty is supplied through a hose from a heavy container standing on the floor for mixing the composition. But the spray gun is not so expensive, it can then be used for many other types of repairs.

Application area

Perfectly amenable to putty various materials, and not just standard concrete or gypsum slabs. If you choose the right mixture, then such a rough surface as foam blocks, penoplex or OSB board will become completely smooth. Essentially, OSB is composite material made of pressed multilayer wood shavings, glued inside with artificial polymer resin. OSB board is made from wood, so it has the properties of wood. Once enough moisture gets in, it swells and rots.

Although the multilayer nature of the OSB material gives it increased strength and resistance to deformation, for its putty it is better to choose a ready-made mixture that does not contain water. This fact scares many and makes them think about the need to putty the walls. You just need to take a closer look at the range of putty mixtures and find a special variety for woodworking.

It is made not on a water basis, but on an adhesive basis with the addition of drying oil.

The larger the layer of preliminary primer on the OSB board, the better the putty will adhere. It is also worth choosing soil without water in the composition, but with the addition of varnishes, for example, glyphthalic. There is a separate type of special acrylic putty for OSB boards and other particleboard surfaces. To achieve the desired viscosity, they are simply diluted not with water, but with solvents. As for oil-glue putty, it will also work well, but it is better to dilute the mixture with drying oil.

The process of puttying such material is not much different from the usual one. It includes priming and stripping the wall, and then the starting and finishing layers. The main action is to reinforce the surface with non-woven fabric at the last step., which is glued overlapping, preferably without joints between the strips.

If roughness cannot be avoided, then you can cut holes at the joints of the sheets and fill them with sealant or an additional layer of finishing putty. Required condition for carrying out all stages of putty - room temperature air temperature is not less than 20C and low humidity within 60%.

Fiberglass canvas is a thin fiberglass material that itself quickly breaks, but when glued to a wall it creates a reinforcement effect, which prevents the surface from deforming. Fiberglass is puttied using the same algorithm as gypsum fiber board or gypsum fiber. This means that the wall is first primed, you just need to choose a mixture suitable for the desired material. So, primer for penoplex is absolutely not suitable for finishing gypsum plasterboard.

A starting layer of putty is necessary for any part of the room, be it a slope or a window opening. If the wall is to be decoratively covered with plaster, then the finishing layer of putty can be avoided. When the surface consists of foam blocks, there should be as many layers of putty as possible, because the main component - foam - strongly absorbs any water-based finishing material.

There are many nuances in the process of puttying walls and ceilings, and if you know them, you can get a much better and more durable result. This is a list of basic useful recommendations:

When there are very noticeable cracks and chips on the wall under putty, it is better to use gypsum-based mixtures for putty, especially the santegypsum modification, which is characterized by increased elasticity and viscosity even at low room temperatures.

This property is also expressed as a disadvantage, because santegypsum hardens quite slowly, but it putsty on the wall with high quality.

To completely remove cracks from the surface, it is better to first widen them and even pick them out with a knife, both in length and depth. The resulting recesses and all adjacent surfaces must be carefully treated with a primer, and after it has dried, the starting layer of the above-mentioned putty should be applied.

For high-quality application of several layers of putty, a painting mesh is often used. It is inexpensive and sold at any hardware store. Using self-tapping screws, it is fixed to the wall surface and covered with a continuous overlapping layer of putty mixture, because this way it adheres better to the surface. Surprisingly, the coarser and more unprocessed the mesh is, the better and more evenly the layer of putty lays down. This technique only works for walls, and on the ceiling the mesh will always sag slightly and lag behind the surface.

The choice of sandpaper for the final stage of sanding the putty layer is very important, especially before wallpapering or applying paint. For example, universal sandpaper number 240 will make the surface much smoother at any stage. According to the general rules, for the starting layer of putty, grout with coarse sandpaper with coarse pile is used. Fine sandpaper is only suitable for the finishing layer. The work is more painstaking, but the result is obvious, because this sandpaper is the last tool after which the wall is decorated.

For the secrets of plastering walls with your own hands, watch the following video.

In what cases is finishing putty necessary? Preparation of walls, rules for applying finishing putty, and details of how to sand it with sandpaper.

Why do you need to putty walls with finishing putty?

Without this work, even after meticulous treatment of the walls, flaws will remain.

If you plan to stick wallpaper with a rough texture on the walls, then such features will be invisible.

But if it is desirable to glue silk-screen printing, or wallpaper made of fabric or with a small print, then the absence of finishing putty will emphasize irregularities and defects.

Is it necessary to apply a finish to previously treated surfaces?

It is still better to apply finishing putty, even if the wall has already been treated and seems even and smooth. If you apply a white solution to the wall, then stains will definitely not appear on the wallpaper.

Do-it-yourself finishing putty on walls

Finishing putty is final works preparation of walls. Subsequently, the walls are painted or covered with wallpaper.

Preparing the walls

Before filling the surface, severe unevenness must be removed. It is for this purpose that plasterboard structures are installed or the wall is plastered.

The next stage is priming the surface. It improves adhesion. After drying, you can begin to putty.

For surface pretreatment, starting mixtures are used.

It is convenient to use two spatulas of different sizes. One of them should be up to 50 centimeters long, and the second should be only 10 centimeters. A small spatula will make it easy to work in hard-to-reach places and corners. A large tool will allow you to get less tired on open areas of the wall.

Features of puttying work:

Do not mix too much putty. Over time, it tends to dry out. The optimal volume is the amount for one hour of work.
The putty should be applied in several layers. Professionals apply a minimum of three layers, which makes it possible to achieve an ideal result. The coating is durable and reliable.
Putty from the corner and gradually level the wall towards the center.

How to apply correctly

If you plan to apply paint or wallpaper to the wall, then you need to apply a layer of finishing putty on top of the starting layer, as it will straighten the walls as much as possible.

Step-by-step application of finishing putty:

The substance is applied in a thin layer to ensure evenness of the walls and save on costs.
To reduce the consumption of the mixture, it is necessary to make the walls as even as possible when using the starting putty.

If you have a dry mixture, you must strictly follow the instructions. A small amount of water is poured into the container, the construction mixture is added, and thoroughly mixed. Then mix using a special mixer, gradually adding water to the container.

When working on a wide spatula with a small spatula, you need to apply the finishing putty in small portions. Afterwards it is evenly applied to the wall in a very thin layer, approximately 1.5-2 mm.

Then wait until the layer is completely dry.

Before applying each subsequent layer of finishing putty, it is recommended to coat each previous layer with a primer.

You can apply 3 layers.

After the finishing layer has dried, it is necessary to level the surface using a sanding mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

First, to grind the surface, use 60 grit, and then change the sandpaper, take 120 grit.

Sanding requires a careful inspection of the wall. Notice the biggest defects. To achieve an ideal result, it is necessary to use construction lights that direct a powerful stream of light directly onto the wall. This will allow you to detect all emerging deficiencies in a timely manner and eliminate them. As a result bright light Shadows from wall protrusions or depressions become visible on the wall. These shadows must be outlined with a pencil.

You should sand the wall, starting from the corner. Then they move from top to bottom, first cleaning a strip 1 m wide. After completely sanding the strip, they begin to sand the next strip. Sand the wall with sandpaper, making spiral movements. Do this carefully, without putting much effort. Do not press too hard, otherwise holes will appear in the putty.

How long does it take to dry?

There are 3 types of finishing putty for sale: cement-based, gypsum-based and polymer-based.

A composition based on cement or gypsum dries in almost the same time, but a polymer mixture dries out after a longer period of time.

A cement-based composition is used where there is increased humidity, for example, in kitchens and bathrooms. For the façade of a building, it is better to use cement-lime-based putty. As a rule, this putty dries in 1-2 hours, but if work is carried out outdoors, it depends on the season.
A gypsum-based composition is used in rooms where humidity is low; drying time is 2 hours.
But the drying period for polymer putty is up to a day.

The putty itself hardens quickly, but the moisture still needs to evaporate. Therefore very thick layer can dry from 2 days to 2 weeks. But it’s better to apply it in a thin layer of 1.5-2 mm.

What to do after drying

Then the walls are painted. You can also cover them with wallpaper.

Is it possible to immediately level the walls with finishing putty?

Finishing putty can eliminate only the smallest defects. Therefore, if the walls are uneven, then be sure to apply starting putty to them first in order to cancel out large cracks.

If in the past during repair work Putty was often not carried out, but today this is a mandatory process. Modern high-tech finishing materials allow you to do all the work yourself. At the same time, you will save on the services of professionals and get high-quality results.

Using the tips from this article will help you get the job done efficiently and without flaws. The main thing is to take your time and ensure that all recommendations are applied.

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