How to cover socket boxes in a concrete wall. How to install a socket box: choosing a location for the socket, cutting, installing a socket box. Installation of socket boxes in plasterboard, plywood, chipboard walls with hollow space
Socket boxes are required in almost all places where electrical appliances are installed. The final appearance depends on how smoothly one or more socket boxes are installed. installed sockets, switches and other installation products. Of course, the evenness of the installation of the socket box does not 100% decide the final result - a socket or switch can be perfectly screwed even into a crookedly “grown” socket box. However, this does not mean that you can be irresponsible about “smearing” round installation boxes(This official name socket boxes).
A crookedly installed socket box can cause a lot of suffering during final installation. installation products.
Therefore, smooth installation of installation boxes is strongly recommended. By the way, socket boxes do not always have a round shape - there are square installation boxes designed for four modules, two in a row. And in general, there are models rectangular shape
, according to their purpose, replacing several single socket boxes in a row. However, the most common are the round ones, so we will focus on them.
At first glance, installing a socket box in a concrete wall seems simple. In principle, this is true; anyone can “smear” the installation box. The only point that many people have difficulty with is the evenness of installation, especially of several combined socket boxes.
The method that I want to describe is far from new. These few additional operations will allow you to efficiently install several socket boxes in a row in any walls - concrete, brick, aerated concrete. First stage - marking , you need to mark the horizontal and vertical axes of each socket. When installing several boxes in a row, you need to maintain the correct distance between them so that future outlet or other modules are installed correctly. Optimal distance
Before installing 5 points in a row (vertical or horizontal), you should clarify the specific size of the installed electric points of a particular series. The best way is to assemble the socket boxes on the table in a row using connectors (usually included with the boxes) and screw all 5 sockets (or switches). Then you will know whether the axle size is correct or not. Often, 5 socket boxes in a row may not correspond to the size of five sockets.
If there is no opportunity to try on the sockets, a distance of 71 mm is maintained between the axes.
If the outer width of the box is 70 mm. (with a front border) - such socket boxes can be installed without problems with a distance between the axes of 71 mm. If the width is 72 mm, then it will be difficult to “narrow” the axes of the boxes. For 2-3 modules in a row, you can maintain a distance of 72 mm, but for 5 in a row it is better to choose other products.
So, the axes are marked - socket boxes can be mounted in both vertical and horizontal rows. But some series of rosettes are not designed to form vertical rows (rare, but it happens), so you need to clarify this point. The second stage is the selection of holes for installation. In concrete, this can be done with a diamond bit for a high-speed drill or grinder. An easier way is to drill holes in a circle with a small drill and knock out the middle with a hammer drill. Optimal diameter
hole size is 75 mm. - then any socket box will fit in freely and there will be a gap for putty. The depth of the hole is about 50-60 mm, the box must fit completely into the wall. A cleanly installed socket box should be flush with the final putty of the walls or slightly recessed relative to the plane of the wall. For brick, plaster and others, more
soft walls
(relative to concrete) an impact bit for a hammer drill is suitable. This crown can also drill concrete walls, but then its service life is greatly shortened. In brick walls it is drilled with impact, in foam concrete and plaster - in drilling mode without impact. When the hole is made, a socket box (or a group of socket boxes) is fitted into it; if everything fits in without problems, it is swept and primed.. In our installation method, connectors are completely unimportant, they may not exist at all. The role of a reference template that maintains the required distances between the mounting screws is played by a homemade pattern.
Any piece of profile, for example PN27X28, is suitable for making patterns. Holes for the fastening screws of each socket box are marked and drilled in the profile, so that there is a distance of 71 mm between the left screws of the first and second boxes (and all subsequent ones). Well, the distance between the screws in one box is 60 mm.
The pattern profile must be longer than the entire group of socket boxes so that there is room to attach to the wall. For this, holes are also drilled in the profile. Next, all the boxes are screwed into the pattern from the flat side; for this, screws are used that come with the socket boxes.
Assembled structure try on in a pre-prepared recess. Nothing should prevent the profile from fitting tightly to the plane of the wall.
Well, the final operation is smearing. A wide range of materials is suitable for fixing socket boxes in concrete, aerated concrete and brick. This can be a gypsum mixture: alabaster, thick fugen, rotband or goldband and others. Quite suitable and cement mixtures
, including tile adhesive. The most important thing is that thanks to the template, the putty does not need to set quickly.
The putty is stuffed into the prepared hole and the socket boxes are pressed in from above. It is necessary to press until the plane of the template profile fits snugly against the plane of the wall. The pattern is aligned to the horizontal axis of the group of socket boxes (or to the vertical axis when forming a vertical row) and, after drilling holes, it is fixed to the wall. All excess putty that has come out from under the boxes is removed with a small spatula. Putty will also definitely get inside the socket boxes - it can be removed without problems after removing the template.
When applying it, it is important to ensure that not a single socket sticks out from the plane of the wall. If some boxes fell a little deeper than the plane of the wall (which is unlikely), it’s okay.
For those who love “reliable reliability”, we can recommend additional reinforcement of the fastening using self-tapping screws.
A hole is drilled in the wall right through the bottom of the socket box and a self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel is screwed in. In walls made of foam concrete and aerated concrete, there is no need for preliminary drilling - the self-tapping screw is screwed in just as it is. It is convenient to use self-tapping screws with a press washer. Whatever one may say, the putty mixture usually gives some shrinkage, so the place where it is applied requires finishing putty . That's why
the best solution
Electrical installation will be carried out until the final plastering of the walls.
Tip: Mounting screws get lost all the time when it comes to final installation of outlets and switches. Therefore, it is recommended to tighten the screws in place immediately after removing the template. And so that they do not interfere with the finishing putty, the screws are tightened deeper than the plane of the wall. How to install socket boxes before plaster In general, it is easier to install using finished plaster, but installing socket boxes
before plaster
no one forbids it. Another thing is that it is a little more complicated.
In order to properly position the installation boxes before plastering, it is necessary to have already installed plaster beacons. When substituting the rule for beacons, you need to control that the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the future plastered wall. It’s best to even deepen the boxes a little relative to the rule by 1-2 mm, then you probably won’t have any problems with pulling the plaster mortar through with the rule.
The smearing algorithm is practically no different from the one described above, the only difference is that the template is not attached to the wall tightly, but taking into account future layers. By controlling the plane using the beacon rule, a template bar is set. Some wedges are inserted between the template and the wall. After the fastening solution has set, the fastening screws are removed or sunk deeper, the protruding wires are carefully rolled up in the sockets themselves.
With this order of work, you need to carefully ensure that the top and bottom of the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the beacons. To solve this problem, it is better to use a wide strip for making patterns. Installation of boxes for non-modular devices will be impossible!
As an example of such a scheme, you can take a cheap thermostat for an electric heated floor - this product is not modular and does not fit into a common frame with other sockets. Of course, there are thermostats suitable for general frames, but they are more expensive and are tied to a certain collection of installation electrics. Therefore, if you use a device without a common frame, it is imperative to maintain the distance!
So, the vast majority of sockets, switches, thermostats and others, in their finished form, have a width of 86 mm. Accordingly, between boxes for non-modular sockets there must be a minimum distance (along the axes) of 86 mm. But this is if it’s “grinding in” and not exactly, what if the switch turns out to be wider? Therefore, it is better to make the minimum distance between the axes of the installation boxes 90 mm. or more.
Well, the article has come to an end. It is more than enough for installing socket boxes in concrete and other materials.
The socket box is metal, and more often - plastic cup, into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical installation work. Installing this product is not difficult, but for each wall material (brick, concrete, plaster or wood) the installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket box in a concrete, brick, wood and plasterboard wall, providing visual photos examples, video instructions and short description to each technology.
What to pay attention to before installation
Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket box. Today, the following types of so-called glasses for sockets and switches are available for sale:
By selecting suitable option products you can go to preparatory work, which we will talk about now!
Preparing for the cut-in
So, in order to install a socket box with your own hands, you must first prepare the following set of materials and tools:
- Hammer or electric drill;
- A crown for plaster, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be tapped) or a Pobedit drill bit;
- Building level;
- Marker;
- Spatula and gypsum putty (if drywall or wood, then not needed);
- Chisel and hammer.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to installing the socket box into the wall. Now we will briefly look at how to insert and secure a glass under the socket in each of existing options walls
Installation technologies
In concrete and brick
If you need to install a socket box in a concrete or brick wall, here you need to proceed as follows:
- Make markings on the surface using a building level and a marker in accordance with the electrical wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at your discretion, according to SNiP and GOST standards this moment not specified. All you need to do is put a cross in suitable place(center of the future hole), lean the socket box in the center and circle it with a marker.
- Using a hammer drill and a suitable crown, drill the groove 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are going to install. If you don’t have a special cutter at hand, simply drill a group of holes in a circle using a drill with a Pobedit drill bit and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully make a square hole with a grinder and a diamond blade.
- When you manage to make a round groove, clean it from the inside, then try on the socket box so that it fits well into the seat and there are no installation difficulties in the future. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and insert the wires inside.
- Dilute the solution to smear the socket box into a concrete or brick wall. A good solution can be made from gypsum putty, alabaster and water.
- Wet the hole and use a spatula to apply the solution inside, as shown in the photo. After this, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, making sure that the screws on the sides are positioned strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket will not be able to be installed level).
- Seal the edges and remove excess solution to leave the glass clean and ready for further use. electrical installation work, after the putty has set.
Like this in a simple way You can independently install a socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to clearly see the essence of the installation.
Video tutorial on attaching a block of glasses in a monolith
In drywall
Attach the socket box to plasterboard partition much simpler. Here you no longer need to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the groove with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that can easily fix the socket box in the drywall. 
In order to install the glass yourself plaster wall, you need to do the following:
- Apply markings on the surface by analogy with the previous technology. We looked at the markings of a plasterboard wall in detail when we talked about...
- Cut a hole in the bottom for the wires and insert the product inside the groove.
- Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is tightly secured inside.
How to install a socket box in drywall
That's all you need to do to install a socket box in a plasterboard wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a novice electrician can install the product. We draw your attention to the fact that if the gypsum partition is additionally tiled, you need to act a little differently. The video below shows the technology for attaching a glass under ceramic tiles.
How to install on tiles
The second way to make a block of sockets in tiles
The power supply of any premises must ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this purpose, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR) require that each socket have a housing that provides protection against electric shock. Sockets designed for wall-mounted(including street) have their own building that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.
Receptacle boxes serve multiple functions
- Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the socket itself.
- Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent electrical potential from reaching the supporting structures from the contacts.
- In addition, the outlet itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
- Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket box.
- There is also an aesthetic component. When installing socket boxes in brick or concrete wall, the seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.
Requirements for socket boxes
A unified set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation electrical outlets, does not exist. Electrical installation rules require compliance general requirements fire and electrical safety. In this sense, installing a box under an outlet is no different from installing distribution box. Exist building codes and rules (SNiP) that determine the geometry of the placement of sockets in the room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.
We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.
An optional but useful requirement is the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.
We proceed to the direct installation of socket boxes
Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set Supplies. Power cable, required amount socket boxes (with a small reserve “for scrap”), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool you plan to use to cut the holes.
Marking
Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will be trenching the walls for it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.
It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to rearrange your apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:
- For universal use- at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finishing coating).
- For large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
- If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - no less than 10 cm from the surface.
- A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV hung on the wall. This is an individual project.
- But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (applies to a group installation, in a row). This setting value standard sockets is 71 mm.
It is also necessary to take into account horizontal arrangement. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames- a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating devices (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.
Making holes
There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on the tools and attachments you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.
- Crown for stone (concrete, brick). Classic and most quick option drilling the wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the external dimensions of the socket boxes (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it’s easier to fill an extra gap with a solution than to squeeze a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markings. Then, adhering strictly to the central markings, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket box by 10–15 mm. You won’t be able to make ready-made holes; most likely the installation location will look like this: 
It's okay, the core can be easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt. 
Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the crown? (Applies to concrete walls only).
Identifying the metal under the crown is not difficult. You definitely can’t go wrong: the deepening stops and a characteristic knocking and vibration appears.
Most good advice- change the installation location of the socket. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm; if the placement is not so important, move the hole by 3–5 cm. Before doing this, try to determine which reinforcement you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.
If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. Wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be cut with a chisel.
Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled out.
The best option is to cut out this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
- Drilling holes using a drill. Not the easiest way, but if you don’t have a crown, you can do one or two seats. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled at the center marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first option, use a bolt or chisel. Tip: Don't be afraid to break the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course, you want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: the holes are like in the picture, a perfectly even row. You will simply waste extra time; all uneven areas will be plastered over and covered with the finishing surface.
By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in a brick wall, there will be no drilling challenging task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: a regular drill with a pobedit drill.
If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. There is less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces), and it is easier to select a hole.
- Installation of socket boxes using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have an angle grinder, then you also have a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with a reinforced concrete wall of special strength. You will simply dull an expensive bit, and the discs on an angle grinder cost pennies.
Together with the grooves for the power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.
It definitely looks rough. On more or less treated walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if finishing is still a long way off, this is the fastest and effective method. Also suitable for brick walls.
- The most unesthetic method is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are impossible. However, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.
The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected grooves. Clean the niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime it.
Installation of boxes
In accordance with the markings, we try on the assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it needs to be expanded. Marking is our everything! Don’t be lazy at this stage, even if you don’t want to pick up a chisel again and make a mess.
Experienced installers attach the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.
If you just sit the socket boxes in liquid solution, they may move before they dry completely. You'll have to redo everything again.
The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.
The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering
If the surface is covered with plasterboard, there is no such problem. What to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?
In fact, from a technical point of view there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket box does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the socket will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.
The problem is rather psychological - it’s a shame to drill into a plastered surface.
When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the plane of the wall, how will you apply the plaster evenly?
That's why, best option: drill niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean the edges of the holes. Before installing the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markings.
Simple advice for beginning craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or plaster from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution takes 2–3 times longer to crystallize.
True, you will have to wait several hours for final drying. But the mixture will be many times stronger.
Video on the topic
So let's start from the beginning:
After all the holes in the concrete for the socket boxes are ready, and all the necessary grooves for them are made, the electrical wiring is done, i.e. feeds power wires to sockets. Perfect option, this is when each of the outlets has its own electrical cable.
4. Installation of socket boxes
I will describe this stage in particular detail because not only the reliability, durability and ease of installation of the outlet, but also your safety depends on the quality of installation of the socket box in a concrete wall.
In order to reliably fix the socket box in a concrete wall, it is necessary to perform a series of actions sequentially. First of all the holes must be cleared of dust and primed using a specialized primer. This guarantees the reliability and durability of the installation of the socket box.
Next, after the primer has dried, dilute a plaster or putty mixture on a gypsum base and apply it inside the holes in the concrete, as shown in the image below. You can also use simple alabaster, the main thing is to work quickly, since pure gypsum has a short setting time. In cases where a small number of socket boxes are installed, this is even an advantage.
Then, “press” the socket boxes with the wires already inserted into them into the solution. It is important to install them strictly horizontally; for this it is convenient to focus on the marks of the horizontal axis that we applied when marking. Also make sure that the installation boxes do not protrude and are installed flush with the wall. It should look something like the image below. At the same time, it is more convenient to remove the gypsum mixture that has got inside the socket boxes after it has hardened and at this stage it is better not to touch it.
When the mixture “sets” and the socket boxes are securely fixed. You can move on to finishing work. If you immediately cover the grooves, holes, etc. with plaster mortar. around the installation boxes, you can knock down their previously established exact position, so I advise you to first wait until the socket boxes are fixed.
Here we will briefly go through the main, most frequently performed, stages of wall finishing after installing sockets in a concrete wall.
First of all they primed, and then large gaps, chips, holes are covered and leveled with plaster, and the socket boxes are also coated more thoroughly.
After the wall has dried putty, then sanded until a smooth surface is formed concrete wall around installed socket boxes.
Finally, after the last coat of primer you can move on to finishing. In our case there were photo wallpapers are pasted.
When all Finishing work finished, you can start direct installation built-in socket mechanisms.
Be sure to make sure there is no voltage at the installation location. Better turn off the supply electric current in the metering and distribution board, turning off the corresponding circuit breakers.
Depending on the type of sockets selected, screw there or spring terminals, the corresponding connection is made. We have already considered both of these options for connecting sockets in some detail in our articles. You can get acquainted with them by following the links, the materials will open in a new window.
In our case, as an example, install ABB Busch Jaeger basic 55 series sockets in a concrete wall with spring terminals.
For this, first of all, preparing the wires. Remove the outer protective braiding of the power cable.
We strip the ends of the wire cores by about 10-12mm and set them up as shown in the image below.
All that remains is to install the frame and front panels of the sockets, after which the installation of sockets in the concrete wall is completed. Now you can turn on the power supply and check their functionality.
This instruction is fully suitable for simply transferring several sockets to a concrete wall, for example to kitchen apron either in the room, or during electrical installation during complete, overhaul apartments, with replacement of all wiring.
If you still have questions about how to install a socket in a concrete wall or you encounter a difficulty not described in this article, be sure to leave your questions and opinions in the comments, we will answer everyone!
It is very possible that you already do not have enough sockets in your apartment and would like to add a few, especially if renovation is underway. How and with what to drill a niche for socket boxes? Do I need to buy an expensive crown or make do with hammer drills? You will learn about this further in this article.
Crowns for socket boxes
For cutting holes or niches for socket boxes in a brick wall, inexpensive crown – the best option. Brick is very soft material, compared to concrete or titanium.
It is unlikely that you will need to install sockets in a titanium wall. It is unlikely that you have a titanium wall in your apartment. But concrete is quite likely. To drill holes for socket boxes in concrete you will need a very good hole saw and good hammer drill, at least with an active anti-bite system. Otherwise, if you have an inexpensive but powerful Chinese hammer drill, you risk dislocating your wrist. This is possible if the crown gets stuck in the concrete. And the power of the rotary hammer is 950-1200 W. will provide you with a visit to a traumatologist. A hammer drill of less power simply will not cope with the task.
You can, of course, buy a thousand crown for 5-6 rubles. And a hammer drill, over thirty thousand. Drill a couple of holes, break its teeth and curse the hour when you decided to make these purchases. But if you need to install just 10-12 socket boxes, it’s easier and cheaper to use a regular hammer drill and a chisel for it. And there is no need to buy an expensive hammer drill, which we are amazed by in videos on You Tube.
First, let's examine it for installation in concrete or brick. They have no significant differences. In principle, for a single socket or switch, you can purchase absolutely any socket box. If you need to install several sockets in a row, then it is better to buy models that connect into an infinite number of sockets. You can also find ready-made “double”, “triple” and “quadruple” socket boxes on sale. Their design is more rigid than those connected in a chain. They are easier to install in the wall due to their rigidity in maintaining plane, but they also cost several times more. In general, the choice is yours. I will show you using cheap socket boxes as an example.
Marking of socket boxes
So, you want to move a switch, an outlet, or move an outlet and increase the number of them.
First, of course, you should decide how many sockets or, as they also say, “places” will be located in one place or another. Basic principle here it’s like: “There can’t be too many sockets!” Let me remind you that both power sockets (220 V) and low-current sockets, that is, telephone, television and Internet, can be combined into one line. It is better to place low-current sockets on the edge of power outlets. This makes it more convenient and correct to stretch the wire. The distance between the power and low-current wires should be at least some (just kidding). In general, these cables should not be laid side by side to avoid exposure to electromagnetic fields. In the best case, an antenna, telephone or Internet wire should be in a shielded sheath. And the closest distance between them will be two sockets, to which they approach from different sides. Then, guaranteed, your Internet will be free from troubles in the form of electromagnetic waves. I’ll add that there is 15 cm between the shielded low-current cable and power cable 220 V. sufficient distance for normal operation of the TV and the Internet. Tested by experience. Those who are not satisfied with my statements can turn to specialized literature.
So, you have decided how many outlets you will have in this area of the wall. I don't recommend more than five. You simply won't find a strip that combines six sockets. I was not lucky enough to meet one like this on this planet. But maybe you'll get lucky.
Next you need to choose a location for these outlets. Here the most correct thing would be not to adhere to some mythical rules and norms, but to do what is most convenient for you. To make it convenient to turn on the plug and pull it out if necessary. So as not to look for sockets under the table, bed or behind the closet. But you shouldn’t install it in the most visible place, like a painting. I am sure that you are able to solve this problem yourself. That's not what the article is about.
Draw a strictly horizontal line along the level. Place the front side of your socket boxes against the wall, centering along the line, and outline them with a pencil. Stand back and admire. Here there will be socket boxes first, and then the sockets themselves.
Hollowing out a niche for socket boxes
Load a 6-8 mm drill bit into the hammer drill. and drill, slightly beyond the contour marks of the socket boxes, holes 6 cm deep.
It is better to immediately drill 5-8 mm wider than the mark. When gouging, the chisel will tend to the center, forming a cone-shaped niche. It will be difficult to get the edges inside the niche. Make the niche a little wider.
Everything that will be inside the contour must be hollowed out using a chisel, replacing the drill in the hammer drill with it. To make gouging easier, drill additional holes in the center of the marked outline of the socket boxes, thereby weakening the concrete. The whole point of this action is to rarefy and weaken the bonds of concrete molecules, if only it consists of molecules. Here, the more holes, the easier and faster the process of choosing a breed will be. Feel like a miner!
If you come across reinforcement, cutting it out with a grinder will not be difficult. When you decide that you have worked hard enough, insert the socket boxes into the niche, check their location horizontally and along the plane of the wall. They should be recessed into the wall with a small margin for the plaster solution to which they will be fixed.
A small digression. If you are going to plaster a wall, leveling it flat and vertical level, then the surface of the socket boxes should be leveled according to the applied layer of plaster. And if the layer is supposed to be large, then less depth will have to be hollowed out.
I prefer to hollow out a niche for the socket boxes before applying the plaster. I don't want to spoil it already flat wall such lethal influences. Pieces of concrete come off unevenly and are torn out along with the plaster. This is unpleasantly damaging to my eyes and nerves.
I do this. First I hollow it out, then I plaster it. After which I “freeze” the socket boxes, leveling them along the plane of the plastered wall. If the alignment plaster layer is not required, then I level it along the existing plane, as in this example.
Chasing walls for wiring
Now I need groove for the wire. Draw horizontal and vertical lines from the recess you created to the place where you intend to connect the new wire. In this case, it’s an old outlet that we decided to get rid of. According to the rules, you should not make the groove diagonally. This makes it easier to remember the location of the wire hidden under a layer of putty or plaster. If you believe Pythagoras, then the diagonal is much shorter, and if you do not intend to subsequently drill the wall in this place, then do as your reason tells you. Just in case, the grooves with wires can be photographed, adding distances from the corner and from the floor level to the photo.
Strobe concrete You can also drill holes 10 mm deep. and the same diameter according to the groove marking, that is, apply perforation with a puncher. After that, with the same drill, drill through all the partitions between the holes, making a continuous groove. It’s easier, of course, to use a wall chaser, but it’s unlikely you have one.
Having cut out the wire, do not forget to drill holes in the groove with a diameter of 6 mm. under the dowel there is a clamp securing the wire. After which, it is necessary to sweep out all the dust from the niche and grooves and prime them. After the primer has dried, you can begin attaching the wire.
Fastening the wire for socket boxes in the groove
It is convenient to secure the wire in the groove using dowel clamps. Where the wires enter the socket box, use a knife to remove the outer insulation that unites the wires into the cable so that they enter the socket box insulated wires apart. So, later, it will be easier to install the sockets themselves, and in the present - to fix the socket boxes. For ease of installation of the sockets themselves, leave the wire with a reserve, then you can cut it. It will be worse if you do not have enough wire. At the entrance to the socket box, make the groove a little deeper so that the wire does not squeeze the socket box out of the fresh solution. Each socket box has places for wires to enter. Make sure in advance that the groove fits exactly this place. Of course, you should break out the holes in the socket boxes for the wire to enter. They are visually easily distinguishable, it is impossible to make a mistake, unless you are crazy. But, in this case, you are unlikely to take up this matter. Crazy people don't install electrical outlets, and it fills our hearts with compassion for them.
How to secure socket boxes
Fasten, or as they also say “ freeze” to the place of her further and lifelong stay, using any solution. The easiest way to do this is with gypsum plaster. In most cases, I use the same one I use to plaster walls. “Rotband” - that’s what it’s called. Do not use stucco (alabaster). It will set faster than you can set it to the desired position. Prepare the solution. The more gaps you need to fill between the edges of the socket box, the thicker and harder the solution is needed. It is easier to fix one socket box than several in an assembly. It is easier to align it with the plane of the wall and horizontally. Before final installation, check whether the socket boxes fit easily into the niche and whether the wires are in the way correct position. If necessary, you can use a grinder or metal scissors to slightly enlarge the holes for the wires to enter.
Coat thoroughly internal walls niches with mortar and fill the niche 2/3 full with plaster. After that, press your socket boxes into the solution, squeezing the excess out. As soon as you achieve a clear position, level the solution along the plane of the wall and let it harden. In the meantime, you can fill the groove with the wire with a solution.
