Puttying walls: practical advice. How to properly putty walls with your own hands: expert advice Correct application of putty on the wall
Anyone who has ever encountered a wall knows perfectly well what the “ideal” walls are in our homes. These are continuous pits, tubercles and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you can’t do without them, but to correct minor surface flaws you can use a special putty. In today's article we will look at what this composition is, its types, in what cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.
- correction of defects after applying the initial layer of starting putty;
- sealing cracks and small depressions;
- finishing of structures of complex shape;
- sealing joints (gypsum plasterboards).
- The spatula is trapezoidal in shape and usually has a wooden handle.
- It is characterized by a small thickness of the working plate and has an elastic and flexible stainless steel blade.
- trapezoidal shape work surface;
- the blade is inflexible, as it is made of carbon steel;
- working surface width – 300−600 mm.
What is the best wall putty to use when leveling surfaces?
In addition to the fact that putty can be starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:
- acrylic – used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is highly moisture-resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
- water-dispersed – has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
- oil-glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
- cement putty excellent for working with stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
- gypsum mixture used for work in rooms with low humidity levels .
Why do you need putty - different for each layer
Applying any putty in several thin or one thick layer is ineffective, since the material is expensive and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, use it, then apply a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer with putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, it is necessary to use materials from the same manufacturer.
Puttying the surface using beacons
How better foundation, the less finishing putty will be needed and, accordingly, the cheaper the repair will be. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles are used - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.
The metal profile is installed on the sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or building level and achieving the perfect vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100−150 mm less than the length of the one used building regulations. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during subsequent finishing with putty.
Prepare putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Relying on the profiles, pull from the bottom up, cutting off excess mortar and, if necessary, filling the depressions with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week for the putty to dry.
How to apply putty to the wall for the finishing layer
After the walls are prepared accordingly, you can proceed to surface finishing. finishing putty. For this purpose, compositions are used, dry or ready-made, which after processing acquire an even and perfectly smooth surface. The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less solution consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding is practically no different from working with starting mixtures.
We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty to a wall:
Drying, sanding and sanding putty walls
The final stage of finishing work using putty requires serious attention and consists of several stages. One of them is sanding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks, which must be repaired when they occur.
Advice! To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting with a powerful bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall being treated.
After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and sagging, and also to make the wall perfectly smooth. If you intend to paste over the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, but in case of painting, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.
You need to start sanding from any upper corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting it with powerful bright light. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finishing layer.
A comment
Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"
Ask a Question“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room is well ventilated. In addition, these protective measures are required by the safety instructions.”
How to putty walls under wallpaper with your own hands
The technology for puttingtying walls under is practically no different from finishing surfaces under:
- The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
- The work is carried out with two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with a width of at least 300 mm.
- One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
- After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
- Clean the surface from dust, reapply putty, and then repeat everything all over again until a perfectly flat surface is achieved.
When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. Application of a primer prevents the occurrence of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between different finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty walls under wallpaper:
Do-it-yourself putty on walls for painting
| Photo | Process description |
 | First of all, using a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging. |
 | As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall. |
 | We pay special attention to the corners. |
 | If there are bumps, remove them using a hammer drill with a chisel. |
 | We prime the wall with a roller or spray. |
 | We apply cement-sand mortar in the corners along the entire vertical. |
 | The rule is to tighten the solution. |
 | We get this almost perfect and even angle. |
Priming walls, plastering, puttying are basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plaster, primer after plaster, putty, sanding, coating paint and varnish material or wallpapering. Puttying the walls after plastering is considered the final preparatory operation.
Even due to the fact that today plastering is provided wide choice materials for interior works And exterior finishing, and having done the work, you can achieve an ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing gypsum plaster, – the procedure is not necessarily included in the order of execution repair work) – the financial costs of such plastering work are extremely high.
Classification putty materials carried out according to several criteria. The grouping sequence is determined by the key factors and properties of the putty, combining the mixtures into the following classes:
- Oil-glue. If you need the cheapest mixture, this group is suitable. It is unknown whether oil solutions will continue to have a future, since they are already considered a thing of the last century. The main disadvantage is the appearance of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.
- Gypsum cement. The materials are much more expensive. Designed for a complete complex finishing operations
- general orientation. Domestic products most often contain more cement than gypsum. Based on the cement and gypsum base, the main purpose of the powder was determined for the craftsmen - having covered the layer of plaster with soil, you will most likely putty the walls with the composition for further wallpapering. Also from the category of gypsum cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, containers - buckets. The advantage is that you don’t need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the product is already ready for use.
- Acrylic.
After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except oil) will appear.
Workflow Stages
Surface cleaning When to putty the walls after old plaster
, worn-out wallpaper and layers of paint must be removed. A special remover helps remove the remains of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls must dry - they are left for about a day.
Drying is followed by a thorough visual inspection: missing small parts are cleaned off with a mounting knife or a thin spatula.
Relief inspection The relief plane is inspected with a flashlight, using building rule
: it is applied to the surface, the lantern is shined along the wall. The smallest recesses and protrusions are obvious. Rough bumps should be beaten off on the spot with a plane or a sharp spatula, and the grooves should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.
Preparing tools
Before starting the repair process, the entire set of tools is carefully wiped from dust with a rag, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the items being wiped. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of solutions from previous batches on the mixer from the drill and mixing container - lumps of old solutions need to be picked out.
Preparation of putty mixture
- The process of preparing the solution is not complicated: They collect in the container running water
- (a construction bucket is filled a quarter full, a regular bucket is filled a third).
- Dry powder is added little by little until the tip of the “iceberg” is above the water.
- Wait up to 30 seconds until the powder absorbs water and sag: no dry formations should remain.
- With a quick, precise movement using a drill attachment, knead for 2 minutes. (drill is preferable, but manual work is also acceptable).
- Wait 30-60 seconds..
Repeat kneading. The consistency has been brought to perfection – the solution is ready.
Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after mixing: it is better to mix several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with smaller ones, calculating the amount needed for one stroke.
Leveling the terrain
Small recesses and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, depending on the size of the defect. Grouting is done with wide crosswise movements with the same force until a smooth surface without sagging or scuffing.
A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, applying pressure, pull out the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to rapid, correct dispersion with periodic equal force exposure from several sides.
In the video: the process of puttingtying a wall with your own hands.
Hardening of the putty layer
When hardening the putty, it is necessary to use all precautions as for hardening plaster: through air flows, direct Sun rays, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but a putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will only appear at the stage of wallpapering or painting.
Indoor air circulation should be adjusted to avoid drafts and temperature fluctuations. More specifically, you can open room door, however, leave the balcony closed. For the corridor - allow air to circulate from living rooms, tightly closing the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.
Instructions for use most often indicate a drying period of up to 16 hours for the coating, but in reality it is 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to sand the layer no earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.
Puttying under wallpaper
For the purpose of further wallpapering, the putty is initially carried out with a wide spatula, covering with each subsequent layer up to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting “sausages” are not ground. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 o, maintain constant pressure, which will help distribute the material in an even layer of 2 to 4 mm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the more it leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more it leads to the formation of a thin layer. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when going beyond its limits, bumps and breaks form on the surface.
The next step is drying the layer, removing the sagging with a jointer and abrasive and checking the smoothness using a building code and a torch. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with abrasive, recesses - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced master can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface becomes perfect.
At the end of the manipulations and long hardening, they go over the wall with a jointer with a mesh size range 80-120 (as the number increases, the abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked with circular movements, after which, loosening the grip, movements are criss-cross in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.
Then the wall is again checked according to the building rules with the lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from the rule, the surface is ready, after a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.
Puttying followed by painting
The technological process is different from puttying followed by wallpapering in one operation: after final leveling and rubbing with an abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it is painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then finishing mixture must be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.
Grouting is done with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.
For mirror painting, the wall is also polished with a polishing trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging of the material.
The nuances of puttying corners and slopes
Inexperienced craftsmen are often recommended to apply more than the required amount of material to the corners, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when it is planned to apply silicone to any area with a gun before puttying, physical costs can be reduced, while at the same time increasing the efficiency of the result.
Work plan:
- When the silicone is used up, you need to unscrew the tube, remove the residue and wipe it with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
- During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving unfilled.
- When the wall is dry, you need to fill the tube with putty and slowly squeeze it into the corner crack. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from bottom to top in one approach.
- Next, they work with an angled spatula, resting on the surface, similar to plastering on beacons.
- After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.
Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used when baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and fixation with electrical tape cream injector fits into the gun like a glove.
At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angular trowel of his choice using any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, and checks the smoothness using the construction rules. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to step up to two times.
Tips from experts on puttying (2 videos)
What you might need (25 photos)
Today we will learn how to putty the walls in an apartment with our own hands. We will analyze in detail the issue of wall preparation, selection of putty, its proper preparation, the tools used in the work and the process itself. The article will be useful for both beginners in repair and those who already have some experience.
How to properly putty walls under wallpaper. Preparing the walls
The walls are put in order so that they are even, and then wallpaper can be hung on them. But the fact is that their initial condition may be so bad that it may be premature to think about how to putty the walls, since first you need to repair deep holes in them, then plaster them, and only then proceed directly to putty. Therefore, I highly recommend that you first read my article, which clearly presents a plan for working with walls, and putty is just one of the stages.
Puttying of walls is carried out in 3 cases:
- After removing old wallpaper, when the walls are relatively smooth and it is not important for you to level (plaster) them.
- After plastering the walls, when they are strictly vertical and ready for further processing.
- When in some places you need to repair small chips on the wall.
Let's go in order.
Why do you need to putty the walls at all, you ask? Well, I took off the old wallpaper and put up new ones. Or I lined the walls with plaster and also hung wallpaper on them.
The fact is that the walls, in any of the above cases, are quite rough, and the wallpaper on them will lie worse than if we had previously puttyed the wall. Wall putty is a fine leveling with millimeter precision. The good thing about putty is that, on the one hand, it is firmly attached to concrete or plaster, and on the other hand, new wallpaper fits perfectly on it.
Which putty is better to putty walls under wallpaper?
First of all, you need to decide on the type of putty you will work with. There are a lot of them in stores, and it is especially difficult for a beginner to navigate such a countless number of options offered. To make it easier for you, I will talk about one of the popular materials from Weber Vetonit, which I myself constantly use:
Let's make the following estimate. The walls of your house are not the same. Some are load-bearing thick walls facing the street. In cold weather, such walls can freeze very much. And there are interior walls that live at a relatively constant temperature. For these cases, Weber Vetonit has the following options:
- Weber Vetonit VH - when hardened, this putty is resistant to low temperatures.
- Weber Vetonit KR is just a putty for dry rooms.
How to determine the required volume of putty
After determining the type of putty, we need to calculate how much we need to take? Usually, on the back of putty packages everything is described in great detail. It would be better to go to the store and read this information directly on the bag. The fact is that all materials are different and say exact amount It will be difficult, but an approximate one is possible!
How many times to putty the walls under the wallpaper
It is very important to evaluate how much you have prepared the wall before applying putty. If after plastering the wall is perfectly smooth, then of course one layer is enough. If you haven’t plastered the wall, but are trying to remove unevenness and small differences on the wall using putty, then the consumption of material will be completely different. Typically, the thickness of the putty ranges from 1 to 3 mm, in some places up to 5 mm - no more. Therefore, in the worst case, if you are going to smooth out unevenness up to 1 cm, then in any case you will need to lay the material in 2 layers.
For example, I just had such a case without plaster, when on interior wall 3.5 meters by 2.5 meters, with a total area of 8.75 meters, I used 15 kg of Weber Vetonit KR putty.
How to putty walls for painting
If you plan not to glue wallpaper, but to paint the walls, then in this case they should be literally polished. In this case, first, with regular putty, unevenness and roughness that may exist after plastering are removed. Then, when the first layer has dried, the wall needs to be sanded, vacuumed, primed and a second layer of finishing putty applied in a very thin layer. The work turns out to be quite complicated in terms of labor costs, but ideal smooth walls worth it.
Considering the above, you just need to measure the area of the walls that are to be puttied, estimate the thickness of the layer of putty that you are going to lay, decide whether it will be one layer or two and, based on the material consumption indicated on the packaging, calculate how much putty you need to buy.
When making repairs, you need to remember an important thing: . Sometimes, especially if you live in an apartment in which you are renovating, see, it happens better building materials purchase in parts.
Where to buy putty
My experience tells me that it is better to buy putty in large construction hypermarkets, such as Petrovich, OBI, etc. Why? Because everything Construction Materials Just like food, it has an expiration date. For example, putty in the form of a dry construction mixture, if the packaging is not opened, may have a shelf life of 12 months, 18 months, etc. from the date of manufacture. Some are dry building mixtures I only have a shelf life of 6 months. Therefore, in large construction hypermarkets the likelihood of purchasing expired materials is much lower than in dubious warehouses for half the price.
Always check the date of manufacture. You cannot work with expired putty - this will ruin all your work.
How to prepare walls for putty. Primer
If you apply putty to concrete wall, then it is better to prime the wall 2 times. If you have just plastered the wall, you can prime it once before applying putty.
In any case, you need to look at the general plan for working with the walls, which I mentioned above.
How to properly dilute putty and putty walls
If we use ready-made putty in a jar to putty the walls, then we open it and immediately get to work.
If we use dry mortar to putty the walls, then we need to prepare a putty solution. To prepare the solution we will need:
- Container for preparing the required volume of dry construction mixture.
- Steelyard for weighing dry construction mixture.
- Container for the prepared solution.
- A measuring stick for pouring the required amount of water.
- Drill with installed mixer.
IMPORTANT!
Putty is not plaster. You can prepare a lot of it at once, because the prepared mixture can live for about another day. Plastering, if we remember, will take place in 20 minutes. begins to harden. Therefore, estimate how much solution you are willing to put in over the next 24 hours.
25 kg = 10 liters
6 kg = X liters
X = 6*10/25 = 2.4 liters of water.
- Pour the required amount of dry mixture from the bag into the bucket.
- Pour the required amount of water into the container for preparing the solution.
- Pour the dry mixture from the bucket into a container with water to prepare the solution.
- Turn on the drill with the mixer installed and begin mixing the dry mixture with water.
You need to stir for about 3 - 5 minutes until the putty gives the appearance of thick sour cream. Then you need to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and stir again (not for long).
The solution is ready. You can use it.
What is the best way to putty the walls? Tools
To putty the walls we will need:
- A trowel for applying the finished mortar to the wall.
- Spatulas (Large, medium (small)).
- Rubber spatula (very small).
And below we will look at the most interesting thing - this is the process of puttying walls.
How to putty walls with your own hands
You need to start putting putty on the wall from one side and move towards the opposite side. The puttying process consists of using a trowel to spread the mortar onto the wall, and then using a spatula to move it left and right, up and down. When spreading the putty on the wall, you need to apply pressure on the spatula. It is necessary to ensure that you do not put an excessive amount of mortar on the wall so that smudges do not form. If you still put more than necessary, disperse this part of the solution along the wall where there is not enough putty applied.
When you run out of solution, prepare a new portion and continue working.
The skill of puttying does not come immediately, it needs to be trained. But I'm sure you will succeed. After applying the putty and dispersing it, literally after a few moments the putty may form smudges in some places. To remove them, you need to run the spatula over this area again.
What is the best spatula to putty on walls? If the area of the wall being processed is large, then it is better to immediately learn how to work with the largest tool. IN hard to reach places use a medium or small spatula.
Why do you need a small rubber spatula?
It happens that in the process of work, you accidentally leaned on the wall, poked the sharp end of a spatula into the newly applied and leveled mortar, or just suddenly a hole formed on the wall in a certain place. Then you take a rubber spatula, dip it in putty and carefully apply the latter to the damaged area. In this case, it is not convenient to use a large spatula, because having eliminated a defect in one place, by pressing a little harder, you can create a new problem in another place with the sharp end of the spatula, so it is better to use a rubber spatula.
The rubber spatula is elastic and allows you to apply very small portions of putty onto problem areas, without destroying what you have already done with such difficulty.
IMPORTANT!
Try not to accidentally get dirt and especially hardened pieces of cement or plaster into your putty solution. The fact is that if this happens, then in the process of applying the solution and dispersing it with a spatula along the wall, an accidentally falling pebble under the pressure of the spatula will make a furrow in the wall, which will have to be repaired immediately.
That is why the container into which you pour water to prepare the solution must be clean, and there should be no remains of hardened cement or plaster pieces floating there.
How to putty plasterboard walls
Evaluation of completed work
After puttying, you need to look at the wall and understand how smoothly you managed to apply the solution, because then the process of sanding the wall will follow, which consists of grinding off excess micro-protrusions on the wall, see. If you are a beginner, then it is quite possible that you may not be able to apply the solution evenly the first time. Dont be upset, next wall It will definitely be smoother! However, if you understand that you have putty the wall poorly, that during the grinding process you will definitely be left with multiple pits and grooves (traces from sharp corners spatula), then it makes sense to apply a second layer of putty after the first layer has dried.
IMPORTANT!
Remember! A new layer of putty can be applied only when the first layer is completely dry. And this will happen approximately in 24 hours.
Of course, wall putty is not limited only to Veber Vetonit. We have a whole company that produces dry building mixtures, where you can read about them, get acquainted with them and gain a little confidence in them if you have never putty before in your life.
This is where the article ends. Today we learned how to putty walls. I’m curious, what difficulties did you experience during your work? What was your main problem: with the spatula or with the incorrectly prepared solution?
In the kitchen, interior renovation is required more often than in other rooms. Usually it is enough to re-paste the wallpaper yourself or paint the walls. This article covers the subtleties of finishing technology in the kitchen. A video to help a beginner will tell you how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting.
Wall putty - is it possible to do without it?
Are the walls in your kitchen worn out and cracked? Is your wallpaper covered in oil stains? No wonder! The kitchen is a room where the interior often needs to be updated. In order to carry out repair work correctly, you must follow some rules.
Wall repair includes three stages of preparatory and repair work:
- Preparation of wall surfaces - at this stage it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of old wallpaper, glue, layers of paint and crumbling plaster.
- Rough finishing of walls - careful alignment kitchen walls, sealing irregularities with plaster, as well as reinforcement (if necessary).
- Finishing the walls is the final stage of wall finishing, which includes puttying, painting or.
When performing repair work on your own, the rough preparation of the walls is often not carried out or is carried out in places. Neglect of leveling and plastering the walls will affect the overall quality of the completed repair: the paint lays unevenly on an unprepared surface, burrs are visible on the surface, and “bubbles” may form under the wallpaper.
Applying a layer of plaster to the walls reduces the number of cracks and scratches, and reliably smoothes out plaster sagging. And leveling the surface of the walls with putty helps to get perfect surface, the finishing of which is absolutely no difficulty.
Wall putty technology: preparing the base
The technology for applying putty to walls for painting and wallpapering has significant differences. The process of applying the working composition to the walls has its own techniques and methods. Preparation of putty also has its own characteristics.
To prepare putty, it is best to use ready-made dry mixtures, which are offered in abundance by modern manufacturers. Before purchasing a dry mixture, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the recipe for preparing the mixture and the consumption rates per 1 m2.
Advice! It is very important to strictly follow the putty preparation recipe in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. A properly prepared mixture will ensure a more even smoothing of the layer and better adhesion to the wall surface.
It is important to remember that the layer of putty applied to the wall under the wallpaper should not exceed 2 mm in thickness. Preliminary preparation walls should be done especially carefully. Small cracks and scratches must be repaired; deep potholes must first be cleared and then carefully filled with plaster. Sometimes there are deposits of old plaster on the walls; such places need to be thoroughly cleaned, knocking down the protruding parts.
Special Requirement for Removal old whitewash– the walls should be cleaned completely. Ideally, wash it and then let it dry.
Important! Putty applied over old lime is not durable. Wallpaper that is heavy, especially vinyl and non-woven wallpaper, will not hold up on poorly treated walls.
Applying primer
After removing the old coating from the kitchen walls, you need to treat the surface with a stiff metal brush - this operation will remove the maximum amount of dirt. After cleaning the walls with a brush, you can begin applying the primer. This is done only if the wall is relatively flat. If there are significant curvatures, you should first correct the curvature of the walls with plaster.
It is convenient to use a roller to apply the primer, thus easily achieving uniform distribution of the primer over the wall. The primer composition can be purchased ready-made; you can always find the primer on sale in the required packaging.
Advice! It is difficult to use a roller in the corners of a room. For better application of primer in corners, use a narrow brush with long, stiff bristles.
After applying the primer, dry the walls thoroughly. Do not apply putty to a wet surface. When applying putty on plasterboard walls having a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply one layer of putty, which will be the finishing layer. Old, plastered surfaces are smoothed with plaster until absolutely smooth.
You can find out how to putty the surface under wallpaper in the video for this article.
How to properly putty walls before painting
Special actions for applying putty for subsequent painting of walls should be considered multi-layer (it will not be possible to get by with just one layer). Sometimes, on particularly problematic walls, it may be necessary to glue a layer of painting mesh, which is alternately covered with several layers of plaster mixture, followed by sanding. and only then putty is applied.
Attention! It is important to purchase only high-quality tools for the job. The spatula must have an absolutely smooth blade without nicks or scratches.
Manufacturers produce a variety of mixtures for wall putty. The consumption of raw materials per 1 m2 can vary significantly:
- Oil-adhesive putty – consumption 3.0 kg/m2.
- Adhesive compositions – consumption 0.47 kg/m2.
- Gypsum plaster - consumption 0.85 kg/m2.
- Finishing putty - composition consumption 0.44 kg/m2.
Here are the average rates of material consumption provided the walls are in ideal condition.
From possible types putty, choose the one that suits you
As when preparing walls for wallpapering, walls to be painted before applying plaster must be carefully prepared: remove old paint or wallpaper, repel the tides plaster composition, clean deep cracks.
Important! All wooden plugs, nails, screws and other fasteners should be removed from the walls. Holes in the wall need to be sealed cement mortar. The same composition is used to fill old holes for wiring, deep cracks and potholes.
Cleaning the walls continues with a wire brush, after which you can begin applying primer. Application of putty is allowed no earlier than 24 hours after the primer layer has dried.
It is convenient to start applying the composition from the right corner of the wall. It is worth monitoring the thickness of the applied layer - it should not exceed 2 mm.
Do not be upset if the first layer of putty is not ideal; re-application of the composition will correct the situation. It is important not to start applying the second layer of putty until the first layer has set. This will take about 12 hours.
Perfect straight corners are performed using special tool– corner spatula. It is worth ensuring that the thickness of the applied layer in the corners does not exceed 5 mm.
Puttying walls for painting: video
Puttying walls: photo
How to putty walls - this is the question most people who plan to carry out renovations in any room ask themselves. It is always more profitable to do at least part of the work yourself. And careful preparation of the walls for subsequent finishing works implies obtaining a perfectly smooth surface, without flaws and roughness. The article will tell you how to do this correctly.
It is not always necessary to putty the walls until they are completely smooth. For example, this should not be done if the wallpaper, after decorating the surface, hides small scratches from cleaning. Putty allows you to remove cracks and holes on the wall, level it well and, if necessary, bring it to a perfectly smooth state.
After that:
- It is much easier to glue wallpaper on smooth walls than on curved ones. In this case, the glue will be absorbed evenly, and the risk of wrinkling of the canvas will be minimal.
- Putty is used to remove various bumps from plastered walls that are visible in sunlight, which will make the surface pimply.
Tip: The instructions for puttying walls indicate: if the old putty crumbles after removing the wallpaper pasted on it, it must be completely removed and the surface must be puttied again.
Tools required for putty
Before you start plastering the walls, you need to purchase minimum set tools for work:
- An electric drill with a mixer attachment. Usually putty is supplied in the form of a dry mixture, in which required quantities liquid is poured in - normal pure water. For ideal mixing of the putty mixture, a special mixer is used, which will allow you to obtain a homogeneous, sufficiently thick mass without lumps or pieces.
- Set of spatulas different widths . In the process of performing the work, you will need large and small tools. In hard-to-reach places it is impossible to obtain a high-quality putty wall with a tool big size, here you need to use spatulas of small width.
- Brushes and rollers for applying primer to wall surfaces. This stage cannot be skipped. After priming, a thin film appears on the walls, which significantly increases the strength of the wall and ensures high-quality adhesion of the treated walls, regardless of the type of facing material.
- Rule. It may be necessary due to large uneven walls when applying putty in a very thick layer. To ensure high-quality leveling of a thick layer of putty, it is convenient to use a long metal rule.
- Construction level, laser or alcohol. Wall surfaces are often far from perfect. Before you putty the walls yourself, test beacons are installed, with constant monitoring using a laser or spirit level.
- Sandpaper. To obtain a beautiful and very smooth surface, so that it is pleasant to look at, very fine sandpaper should be used during finishing rubbing; the ideal result would be sanding with number two hundred and forty sandpaper. To mash the initial starting putty Grouting should be done using coarse sandpaper.
- . When using such a tool, sanding becomes more convenient. This special device, on the handle of which there are clips for fixing the skin, as seen in the photo.
- Containers for preparing putty.
- Brushes and rollers for priming walls.
Tip: Walls should always be primed. It provides a very thin film on the wall, which significantly increases its strength and improves the adhesion of materials.
How to choose the right putty
Which putty is better to putty on walls?
In composition they are:
- Cement. They are more moisture resistant, but their big drawback is that they are too high level shrinkage.
- Acrylic (see Acrylic putty - types, features, application). They have excellent adhesion to the base.
- Polymer. They have good moisture resistance and do not shrink. The use of polymer putty allows you to get high quality area after wall treatment. The high price is a significant disadvantage of the material.
- Plaster(see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use). Such coatings do not shrink, their cost is low, they can be leveled perfectly, but they have low resistance to moisture, which limits the scope of their use.
According to the purpose of putty there are:
- Leveling or starting. Have:
- excellent adhesion of materials;
- increased strength;
- fairly coarse grain size.
Rough material is used to make them. This putty is quite convenient to use to remove large differences on the surface of walls, to hide existing holes and grooves. For the first time, you can easily apply a layer up to one and a half centimeters thick.
Repeated layers are applied after the previous ones have completely dried. The maximum result can be achieved after installing a special painting mesh to evenly distribute the putty.
The advantages of this technology are that it allows layers of putty to be laid perfectly evenly. In this case, the surface will be more even and quite durable. The coarser the material of the painting mesh, the smoother the surface of the walls after processing.
- Lighthouses. Such materials are not much different from leveling putty. The only difference is the use of beacons. A lighthouse is a rod made of:
- gypsum;
- metal;
- tree.
The part is positioned strictly vertically, which is controlled by a level. The beacons to the walls are fixed to a gypsum mixture, which dries quite quickly, and then puttying is performed directly. This is how the wall is aligned along horizontal lines. For leveling applied layers putty is used as a rule.
Using these recommendations, after completing the starting work, you can get a flat surface, which is controlled by the level. Due to the high cost, this type of putty is used quite rarely, and visually they are almost the same.
- Universal. Combine positive properties starting and decorative mixtures. Their cost is relatively high, but their properties are inferior to other coatings. It is better to use for leveling walls that do not have large defects.
- Finishing or decorative(see DIY decorative plaster: how to do it right). After applying the beacon or starting composition, a finishing coating is performed, which gives the surfaces ideal smoothness and eliminates pores and the smallest cracks.
