How to make a sauna floor with your own hands. How to make a floor in a bathhouse - we follow all construction rules. Construction of support chairs-pillars
Technology and process of arranging floors in steam room and the washing department differ significantly from the principles of constructing floors in residential and commercial buildings.
To provide effective system drainage, ventilation, hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the basic installation rules. A properly equipped bath floor provides rapid elimination wastewater and maintaining the indoor microclimate.
Often the floor for a bathhouse is made of wood or concrete. It is difficult to determine which floor is better, since each type of base has its own operational features and characteristics that should be taken into account when arranging a private bath.
Concrete floor
Wooden floor
A wooden floor is simpler and more accessible to install, but less durable than its concrete counterpart. After only 10 years of active operation, individual elements of such a structure are subject to reconstruction or replacement.
Plank floors can be made from coniferous and deciduous wood, resistant to moisture and temperature changes. Wooden bases are available in two types: leaking and non-leaking.
Leaky type floor
This a budget option structure, presented in the form of a wooden lattice, the individual elements of which are installed in compliance with the gaps for the free discharge of wastewater into the ground.
A leaky floor does not require complex installation drainage system and additional insulation. For this reason, a bathhouse with a similar floor is recommended to be used in summer period or in regions with warm climates.
This basis is available for independent arrangement, in addition, and renovation work will not cause technical difficulties. In this design, the floorboards are not attached to the joists, so if necessary, they can be dismantled for drying or replacement.
Non-leakage floor
The leak-proof floor has solid structure, installed on, which are built into the ground or concrete base. For efficient drainage, it is performed at a slight slope towards the drain hole.
To install a solid floor, a tongue-and-groove board made of larch or pine, installed on supports, is used. Quality boards for the floor should not have deformations or defects.
The top flooring is laid on the subfloor, which is pre-insulated with moisture-resistant material.
A bathhouse with this type of floor can be used throughout the year at any temperature.
Selection of consumables and basic calculations
The construction of the floor in the bathhouse involves the use of construction and thermal insulation materials, waste pipes made of metal and plastic, galvanized fasteners.
What is the best material to make the floor from in the steam room and sink? Quantity and type Supplies depend on the type of floor structure and the method of its installation.
Calculations for a concrete floor
For installation work you need to prepare:
- Fine sand for filling a layer 12 cm thick. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.12 cm = 1.08 cubic meters. m.
- Expanded clay for backfilling before thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 30 cm. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.30 = 2.7 cubic meters. m.
- Expanded polystyrene sheets extruded for thermal insulation. The thickness of the insulating layer is 10 cm. The number of sheets for a room of 9 square meters. m – 2.5 packs.
- A mixture based on cement and sand (ready-made or homemade). The thickness of the screed is from 6 to 12 cm. The consumption of the dry mixture is on average 18 kg/sq.m. m. Concrete layer of 1 cm = (3 × 3) × 18 kg/sq. m = 162 kg. For a 6 cm layer: 162 × 7 = 1134 kg or 63 bags of ready-made mixture.
- Reinforcement mesh for fixing a concrete layer measuring 5 × 5 cm.
- Rolled roofing felt for waterproofing the sand cushion from the expanded clay layer.
- Metal profile for beacons under screed. For a steam room with an area of 9 sq. m. 18 meters of profile will be required.
- Plastic pipe for drainage up to 5 meters long, with a cross-section up to 3.2 cm, siphon and swivel elbow.
Calculations for wooden floors
As a working example, the calculation of materials for installing a wooden floor in a steam room with an area of 9 square meters is given. m.
To build a simple leaky floor, you will need:
- A block for the subfloor measuring 3 × 3 or 4 × 4 cm along the length of the beam. The distance between the beams is 0.5 meters, the total amount of material is 30 meters.
- Unplaned board for a base up to 25 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. For one section you need: (300/25) × 0.5 = 6 meters. To design 5 floor sections: 5 × 6 = 30 meters.
- Guide bar for creating a drain slope with a cross-section of 2 × 3 or 3 × 3 cm.
- A block for fixing joists for a finished base with a section of 6 × 6 cm.
- Rolled or sheet roofing felt for waterproofing. For the steam room you need 16 meters of material, taking into account allowances.
- Rolled basalt wool 8 cm thick for thermal insulation.
- Galvanized steel sheets thickness up to 0.6 mm – 11 sq. m. material.
- Polymer pipe, elbow and drain for installation in a drain hole. For organization proper drainage The installation of the elbow with the connected pipe must be performed at a right angle.
Concrete floor installation technology
The arrangement of the floor begins with preparing the soil inside the foundation - clearing it of debris and dirt.
The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:
- The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. Inner walls The foundation is treated with bitumen in several layers.
- On preparatory stage The sewer pipe is being laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet hole in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
- The drain pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent clogging.
- poured onto the ground sand cushion up to 12 cm high, moisten and compact.
- Next you need to put roofing felt on interior walls bases with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
- Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and compacted. There is 8 cm left to the edge of the base.
- Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are taped with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
- After the foundation is insulated, guides are installed for pouring concrete in increments of 55 to 95 cm. The beacons are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
- When installing guides, it is important to maintain the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to level.
- At the bottom of the walls along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape up to 12 cm high is fixed. After pouring and drying the concrete screed, the remaining tape can be removed.
- The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left until completely dry.
Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with the mixture. For the first 10 days, the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.
Laying technology for leaking wooden floors
A step-by-step guide to installing a leaking floor includes: phased implementation works: preparation of the underground, installation of logs and wood flooring.
Preparation of the underground
In order for water entering the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of soil is cut off and a waterproofing cushion made of small crushed stone up to 26 cm thick is backfilled.
For soils with a low level of moisture absorption, soil removal is carried out at a slight angle, and wastewater is discharged into a 30-centimeter pit through a drain pipe. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.
Important! Before filling the pillows, install supports under wooden joists, and also build a foundation for heating equipment.
Installation of support beams
How to install logs correctly? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the lag is determined by the height of the pillars (column foundation) or strips (strip foundation).
The installation of the logs is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the joists or their swelling, the supports are covered with a double layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt treated with hot bitumen.
To ensure natural ventilation when laying logs to the walls, a minimum technological gap of 4 cm should be observed.
Wood flooring
To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed joists. In this case, it is necessary to maintain space between individual floor elements - 5 mm, between boards and walls - 2.5 cm. Fixation wooden shield to the joists is done using metal nails.
Technology for laying leak-proof wooden floors
The installation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse involves the installation of support beams similar to the previous option, with the formation of an inclined surface for effective drainage of wastewater.
Installation of the floor in the bathhouse is carried out in the following order:
- Organization of water intake system. The first stage of installing a non-leaky floor is the organization of a water intake measuring 45 × 45 cm, located between the supports and thermally insulated with a solution of clay or cement. The depth of the water intake is 35 cm. At a height of 3 cm from the bottom of the receiver, at a slight slope, a pipe is installed to discharge wastewater into a drainage well or pit.
- Installation of subfloor. After installing the log on support pillars The subfloor is fixed - a sheet of cheap material, for example, a second-rate board. Hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier is laid on the boards in layers to protect against moisture.
- Fixation of the finishing coating. The installed logs are covered with a finishing covering made of tongue-and-groove boards with low coefficient moisture absorption. Along the perimeter of the room, a gap of 2 cm is maintained from the walls for natural ventilation. The boards are fixed with nails at an angle of 50 degrees. Finally, decorative plinth is installed.
Important! Wall surfaces are covered over the installed baseboard to prevent condensation from collecting under the baseboard.
Effective protection of joists and floor coverings from rotting
To prevent the bathhouse floor from rotting, experts recommend treating it with heat-resistant water-based varnish. Such a coating can withstand heating temperatures of over 100 degrees, providing the surface with reliable protection from high humidity, hot steam and dirt.
The protective varnish is applied to the wooden base with a brush in several layers. Work is carried out in a well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 4 to 28 degrees.
If you are installing a wooden floor in a leaky bathhouse, then protective composition applied to the topcoat and support joists.
Laying floors in a bathhouse is a complex procedure that depends on design features building, its size and type of foundation. But, despite the technical difficulties, any owner of a private bathhouse can master the technology of laying floors with his own hands.
Most owners of private houses with personal plot Would like to have your own bathhouse on your large (or not so large) farm. As they say, it’s good for the body and good for the soul. Building a bathhouse with your own hands is not that difficult, but in order for the structure to be reliable and serve for a long time, you need to know some rules. In particular, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of floors in the bathhouse.
Depending on the wishes and capabilities of the owner, the bathhouse can be made quite simple - wooden frame, consisting of a dressing room and a steam room, or you can build a real one bath complex with a dressing room, steam room, washing room and rest room.
If we are talking about the construction of a small wooden bathhouse, which can only be used in warm time years, then it is advisable to make the floor from wood. In the case of building a permanent bathhouse made of brick, it is better to lay a reliable concrete floor with waterproofing and drainage. Such brick bath will be suitable for use both in summer and winter, which significantly increases its functionality.
Another great option in terms of practicality and beauty is styling. This material is durable and easy to care for. In addition, on modern market presented wide choose various designs tiles, which will satisfy even the most demanding taste. To avoid the floor slipping during operation and excessive overheating, it is better to place removable wooden grates on the tiles. As you know, the grout between the seams is easily rotten due to high humidity. To prevent this from happening, it should be treated with special antiseptic agents.
Video - Tile in the bathhouse
Concrete floor for a bath: durability and reliability
IN concrete floor It is also necessary to provide for the installation of pipes for water drainage and drain holes, which are covered with wooden gratings for convenience and aesthetic appeal. In order for water to flow freely, the floor is made with a slope towards the drain holes.
Video - Russian steam room: what should it be like?
Installation of wooden floors in a bathhouse: features and recommendations
Installing a wooden floor in a bathhouse has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include relatively small financial investments and ease of installation. But the main disadvantage is the fragility of wood due to high levels of humidity and temperature changes; a wooden floor can begin to rot and will have to be re-laid.
When installing wooden floors in the bath it is better to use boards from coniferous trees– pine, fir, larch and others. Due to the high resin content, such wood is more resistant to moisture, and essential oils that stand out from the wood will be useful in terms of therapeutic effect. It is also important that boards made of coniferous trees do not become slippery when wet, this will protect those washing from falling.
Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse floor
You can make a wooden floor in a bathhouse leaking and non-leaking.
When installing a leaking wooden floor in a bathhouse, it is necessary to provide a gap underneath it. It is recommended to leave about 50 cm of free space - this way the air can blow freely and from all sides on the boardwalk.
A slope for water drainage is formed under a wooden floor, on a clay or cement surface. There is also supposed to be a pit through which the flowing water will be drained into a filter well. To form an inclined line, gravel is used, which is evenly placed under the clay layer. If the screed is made of cement, the pit must be sealed with waterproofing.
To improve the ventilation of leaking floor boards, you can use a blower stone oven, if it is installed under the floor, and also vent air from under the floor to the roof using asbestos-cement or plastic pipes.
Wood floors are not recommended to be painted or treated with any compounds. This will not add durability to the tree, but the fact that the boards will stop breathing is a fact. Thus, instead of a rich and healthy pine aroma, there will be a persistent smell of chemical solutions in the bathhouse. Wood is susceptible to decay in any case, so the best option is thorough sanding of boards before use in construction.
Basic principles of installing a wooden leaky floor for a bath
Installation of a wooden leaky floor for a bathhouse consists of the following steps.
Floor frame installation
The installation of the floor frame includes the installation of joists. The logs themselves are laid on stable pedestals, which are cast from reinforced concrete and covered with brick or concrete supports. The height at which the logs are installed depends on the height of the embedded beam (with columnar foundation) or concrete “ribbons” (with a strip foundation). The logs are laid parallel to the short wall of the bathhouse. To prevent the logs from drawing moisture from the supporting pedestals, the pedestals themselves are covered with roofing felt. Also, logs should not be laid close to the walls of the bathhouse - for better ventilation, you need to leave gaps 3-4 cm wide.
Arrangement of the underground
In order for the water that gets into the underground to quickly drain, the ground needs to be prepared - cut off the top layer of soil and cover the surface with crushed stone 25 cm high.
For soils that do not absorb water well, it is necessary to cut the soil at an angle and drain the water into a pit about 30 cm deep, in which a sewer pipe is placed. The surface of the earth should be covered with a double layer of clay and well leveled - this will make it easier for water to reach the pit.
Installation of floor boards
Floor boards are laid perpendicular to the joists, without touching the walls or each other. The indentation should be 2 cm, the distance between adjacent boards should be 3-5 mm. The boards are fixed to the joists with nails.
Installation of non-leakage floor. Instructions
Installation of a wooden non-leaking floor begins with the installation of logs according to the scheme described above, with the only difference being that notches must be made on the logs to obtain an inclined surface. The process includes the following steps.
Arrangement of a water receiver
When installing a non-leakage floor, it is necessary to provide a 40*40 cm water collector, which should be placed between the supports and sealed concrete mortar or clay. The depth of the catchment is 30 cm. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a sewer pipe is installed at an angle, through which water can freely flow into the cesspool.
Installation of subfloor
Bars measuring 5*5 cm are nailed onto the logs, on top of which boards of the second grade are laid. They are covered with hydro- and thermal insulation (mineral wool, expanded clay) and a layer of vapor barrier, which will protect all previous layers from moisture.
Installation of finished floor
The finished floor is laid from tongue-and-groove boards so that the mounting groove is inside the structure. In order to ensure sufficient ventilation of the inner layer, it is necessary to lay a pipe between the layers of the floor and its other end to the roof.
Waterproofing a bathhouse floor: an important issue
The moment of waterproofing the floor in a room with a high level of humidity, such as a bathhouse, requires a special approach. It is necessary to think over a detailed and competent plan for waterproofing the floor before starting construction of the bathhouse.
- First, you need to ensure the outflow of flowing water. For this purpose, there are drain holes that are connected to sewer pipes leading to the cesspool.
- Secondly, the floor surface must be cleaned of dirt and treated with a primer solution, thus preparing it for further work.
Infrared floor heating in the bathhouse
Installation of water pipes is quite complicated. Due to the heaviness of the pipes under water pressure, it is necessary to reinforce the floor screed. Electrical cables have significantly more advantages in this regard. They are relatively light and easy to install; they are sold in ready-made blocks in the form of a “substrate”, which only needs to be correctly placed on the floor surface and then filled with a layer of concrete.
When installing heated floors, you should be careful when choosing the finishing floor covering. In particular, tile has the ability to heat up quickly, so it is better to place wooden grates on top of it.
Video - How to make a subfloor with your own hands
Preface
Construction of the floor in the steam room is a very important stage in the construction of a sauna. The floor must be adapted to high temperatures and humidity. Anyone can make a bathhouse floor with their own hands – we’ll tell you how.
Choosing a bath floor design
Compared to living spaces, bath floors require a special approach. Exposure to extreme heat and constant humidity structural elements wooden floors are susceptible to rotting. Therefore, it is very important to competently approach the choice of the type of underground structure. It is much better to think about how to make a floor in a bathhouse at the design stage of the structure itself.
In bathhouse construction, the most common are floor concrete or. The main task when arranging the floor is to drain the water that constantly flows during bathing procedures. Depending on the method of drainage, the wooden floor in the bathhouse can be made leaky or non-leaky.
As for the leaking type of floor, such a structure is inexpensive option. Similar design easy enough to do. In order to arrange good drainage, you need to lay boards on the joists. Such flooring must have slots to ensure drainage directly to the ground.
To collect water underground, bathhouses are built drainage hole. Therefore, sewerage is not required in this case. Due to the fact that the floor covering is slotted, the floor is not insulated. Therefore, a self-made bathhouse with this type of floor is only suitable for use during the warm season.
As for a non-leakage floor, this type is much more complicated to construct than the first option. This design is made from several rows of boards. A subfloor is made from the first row, which involves attaching boards to the bottom of the joists. Uneven second-grade boards may be suitable for this purpose.
The second row is laid directly on the logs. This must be done without gaps, so for convenience you can use boards with tongue and groove. Experts recommend using larch boards at this stage. It is also possible to pay attention to pine wood. Among coniferous species fir is a good tree for baths. As a rule, heat-insulating materials are placed in the inter-row space.
The finishing floor must be laid at a slight inclination in the direction of water collection. This will help drain the wastewater into the sewer or septic tank. It is also necessary to connect the siphon to the pre-made hole in the lower part of the wooden base. Using a tray that runs the entire length of the floor, you can get rid of additional holes. The tray must be positioned at an angle towards the collection point for contaminated wastewater.
Secrets of arranging a wooden floor in a bathhouse
Among the main advantages of wooden flooring is the environmental friendliness of the material. With such a floor, the bathhouse will look very solid. Compared with other types of flooring, using wood will be significantly cheaper. The main advantages of a wooden bath floor include high installation speed.
Before installing the logs, it is necessary to build support chairs. They can be made from either brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. When using the first option, you will need to build a concrete platform under each support.
For support chairs, a hole is usually made 40–50 cm deep. After this, you need to make a cushion, which will require a layer of sand of about 10 cm. Then 15 cm of crushed stone is poured in. All this must be thoroughly compacted. Upon completion, a frame is created from reinforcement, after which concrete is poured. It is imperative to take into account that the supports are at the same level and rise 10–20 cm above the ground surface. The poured concrete must be allowed to cure to gain strength. Therefore, the following actions must be performed a week after pouring concrete mixture.
When the strength of the support chairs has been gained, you can begin to waterproof them. The first step is to apply liquid bitumen. After this, it is advisable to lay the roofing material.
The next stage of creating a wooden floor covering in a bathhouse with your own hands is laying the logs. This process depends on the type of floor structure. For example, for a non-leakage floor, it is necessary to arrange a slope of the flooring of 10 degrees. For this purpose, notches are created in the bars. They need to be made more when approaching the waste pit. If a leaking floor is used, the joists must be laid at the same level.
Once this process is complete, the floor boards are laid. This stage also differs depending on the floor construction. In the case of a non-leaking floor, tongue and groove beams are used. The work itself is carried out in three stages - creating a subfloor, thermal and waterproofing, laying the finished floor.
For leaking floors, cut boards are used. They must be laid at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Such gaps will make it possible to drain water from the floor surface. Be sure to make a technological gap of 2 cm near the walls.
Construction of a leak-proof floor - little things you need to know
The floor design resembles multilayer cake. As mentioned above, a subfloor is required to apply the thermal insulation layer. Any boards, including waste, are used for it. It is important to treat the wood with antiseptic materials and clean it of bark. You also need to pay attention to the thickness of the boards; they should not be thinner than 20–25 mm.
For thermal insulation works needs to be laid on a subfloor waterproofing membrane. This material should extend 20–30 cm onto the wall. All joists must be covered with a continuous layer of such a membrane. You can attach it using a stapler. Fastening should be done to the side of the joist in 10–15 cm increments. If the film size is not enough, then the new layer will need to be overlapped with the previous one by 20–30 cm. Two layers of the membrane can be connected to each other using self-adhesive tape.
Next, you can begin laying the insulating material. It is recommended to leave a small gap (no more than 1–2 cm) between top layer floor and insulation. Some experts advise when using basalt wool Lay another layer of waterproofing on top of it.
Now you can start creating the finished floor. To do this, first of all, attach a 2 cm thick strip along the wall. In this case, it is advisable to use wood screws. Such slats are necessary to create support for the floor boards.
The beams begin to be laid from the wall. They are attached to the joists using self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed. Thanks to the tenons in the boards, they are attached quite easily. To do this, you need to insert each one into the groove of the previous board. Therefore, the tenon of the first plank should be directed towards the wall. Floor boards must be laid in such a way that water flows across the beams.
Concrete floor in a bathhouse - what you need to know
Creating such a floor covering with your own hands is carried out in several stages. The first step is to compact the soil base. It is required to make a sand and crushed stone cushion. Most often, a layer of 15–20 cm is made. They begin to tilt towards the pit even at the stage of soil compaction.
Before pouring the first layer of concrete, it is necessary to build a pit from which a sewer pipe should exit into the drainage ditch. In the case of drainage into the ground, it is necessary to make vents in the bathhouse. For this you can use asbestos pipes. Such holes are made to remove the bathhouse from the room unpleasant odors. When draining wastewater into a sewer through a pipe, its receiving edge must be provided with a shutter.
Next, concrete is poured at 5 cm. After the mixture has hardened, expanded clay is poured or felt is laid. Waterproofing is a must. Another reinforced layer of concrete is poured on top of the insulation. After this stage, it is recommended to use leveling mixtures. Now you can begin laying the flooring.
The concrete floor in the bathhouse is very cold. Therefore, you will need to make it warm. To do this, you can implement electric or water heated floors. It is better to lay a moisture-resistant wooden covering on top of the concrete. Due to this, the floor surface will always be warm and comfortable for your feet.
The bathhouse consists of two rooms - a steam room (washing room) and a dressing room. Each of these rooms has its own characteristics; floor construction technology takes these differences into account. Let's start first with more complex work - the floor in the steam room, and then we will look at the installation of floors in the dressing room.
High temperatures, high humidity and direct contact with water require special care when laying floors. Otherwise, washing will be uncomfortable and the floors will have to be changed frequently. So we have finished log house, why to start installing floors and what they are like.
Photo of the floor in the steam room, already finished and laid 
Wooden floor in the steam room
Spilling floors - photo
The simplest option, they are laid only with natural (glued-laminated will not work!) coniferous boards, the thickness of the boards is at least 25 mm, the distance between the logs is no more than 80 cm, the distance between the beams is 1.0÷1.3. The thicker the boards, the greater the distance maybe between the joists. For logs, you can take bars 50x100 mm, the dimensions of the beams are approximately 100x100 mm. If there is a desire, impregnate it with antiseptics; if there is no desire, the floors will last for many years without impregnation. The main difference between pourable floors is that water flows over the entire area into cracks ≈5 mm wide.
Do-it-yourself shower floor. Instructions
Step 1.
The fact is that the water must go into the ground. If the soil is sandy, there are no problems. If your soil is clay or loamy, there will be problems. Baths are built on columnar or shallow strip foundations, they dig to a depth of about 50 cm; rarely does anyone make a sand cushion (but in vain!). Clay soils swell when there is an excess of moisture, and the bathhouse begins to “play” with everyone negative consequences. So, on clay soils It is necessary to do drainage if the foundations are closed (shallow strip foundations). You shouldn’t be particularly upset, if the builders are responsible, then they should have left ventilation holes in the foundation; they can be used to drain water. There are no such holes - you will have to make them yourself.
Step 2. The floors are laid on joists, the joists are laid on beams. And here a lot depends on the conscientiousness of the builders. They had to lay the beams while laying the timber. Didn't get it? The problem is, you need to make columns for them.
Columns should be filled only with concrete; brick is afraid of moisture and will crumble after a few years.
| Stage | Description |
|---|---|
| Make markings, the distance between the posts is the same as the distance between the beams. In most cases, 1.0÷1.3 m is sufficient (for beams 100 × 100 mm). Dig square holes 50 centimeters deep, pour 15÷20 cm thick sand onto the bottom and compact it, this will be a cushion that protects against swelling. |
| In clay soils there is no need to make formwork, the earth will hold its shape anyway, formwork needs to be made only for the protruding part of the posts. For sandy soils you will have to make formwork along the entire height of the columns. For formwork, you can use various waste boards, scraps of OSB boards or plywood. The height of the columns should be below the floor level (in construction this level is considered to be the zero mark) by the height of the beams, joists and the thickness of the boards. First you need to set up the formwork of the outermost posts, stretch a rope between them and place all the rest at this level. |
| Pour the concrete, it’s easy to do, you don’t need any advice. |
| After pouring, you need to wait at least two weeks, during this period of time the concrete gains 50% of its final strength, and you can already work with such material. Remove the formwork and check the position of the posts again. If necessary, use cement-sand mortar to straighten the columns, making them as equal in height as possible. |
Video - Example of arranging a columnar base for logs
It is advisable to lay the beams on a waterproofing material; it is not necessary to use expensive modern cushioning materials; you can use ordinary roofing felt or several layers of polyethylene film.
The beams are fixed to the posts with corners - with a dowel in concrete, or with a screw or nail in wood. Place beams and joists level, constantly check the spatial position, fix the joists to the beams with metal corners. The same height is also checked with a rope stretched between the outer eiders. If necessary, pieces of boards should be placed under the joists for leveling. Just don’t use wedges, they fall out over time; the stop of the spacers should be across the entire area of the beam.
Prices for roofing material
roofing felt
Step 3. Laying boards.
The boards are laid across the joists; do not forget to leave gaps between them for water to drain. To ensure that the slots have the same width, you can use a thin river of suitable thickness as a template. After laying the board, it is removed.
You can nail it (quickly and cheaply), or you can use self-tapping screws. The main thing is that the caps need to be recessed flush. Why are nails better? The fact is that the relative humidity of the floors in the steam room changes within significant limits, the boards swell and dry out. The nails compensate for these changes in the thickness of the floor; they pull out a little from the joists; the length of the nails in our case is approximately 70 mm. In general, there is a rule - the length of the nails should be three times greater than the thickness of the board being nailed. The screws hold tightly, the boards break through a little, which is not very desirable.
Video - Preparing boards for laying
Video - Installing beams, laying floorboards, floor insulation
Step 4. Finishing work– nailing skirting boards, leveling and, if necessary, sanding boards. Skirting boards are nailed in the usual way small nails approximately 30 mm long. Specific values depend on the thickness of the skirting boards. Corner cuts should be made at an angle of 45°, there are special devices for cuts. If you have a factory device at hand, it will not be difficult to make it yourself. That's all, the drain floor is ready for “use”.
Do not be afraid that the drain floors are cold and you will catch a runny nose in the steam room. The temperature in the steam room is about +80°C, from such heat the floor also heats up, and large drafts will not appear from small cracks.
Non-leakage floors
Making them is a little more difficult, but the comfort of staying in the steam room increases. They differ from leaking ones in that there are no gaps between the boards, but there is a slight slope for draining water.
You need to make a slope towards one of the walls of the steam room; you should keep in mind that the mesh will have to be cleaned periodically. This means that access to the drain must be free. It is advisable to make a water receiver at the drainage point and immediately remove it beyond the perimeter of the foundation; this is not difficult to do, the water flows in one place (unlike leaking floors).
Regarding the preparatory work for the device ventilation holes in the foundation and arrangement of stacks, then these works are the same as we described above, but in the future there are differences.
Step 1. Preparing the columns. The markings for the distance between the posts, the depth, the preparation of the cushion and the preparation of the concrete mixture are the same. Further differences. The fact is that the columns must be at different heights. The floor near one side is slightly higher than near the other. The slope should not be large, two to three millimeters per linear meter floor. For example, if you have a steam room 4 meters long, then the difference in height of the outer columns should be within 8 ÷ 12 millimeters. It will not be possible to immediately pour concrete with such precision; you will have to adjust it with mortar after removing the formwork. For the initial marking you will need a simple hydraulic level; make marks on the formwork of the outer posts. Next, everything is already familiar - pull the thread between them and level the surfaces.
Step 2. And here there is a lot in common, only the beams and joists will be at an angle, you also need to check their position using a stretched thread. After installing the last log, do not be lazy to check again that they are in the correct position.
Step 3. Laying boards. You immediately need to prepare a drain grate and come up with a drain method. Use hoses or pipe sections of appropriate diameters. Before laying, check the boards for parallelism of the edges; if the curvature exceeds 5 mm, straighten them using a surface planer. To lay the boards you need to have special devices to pull them tightly. There are two options. The first is to buy a ready-made one in the store; it is inexpensive and works quite effectively. The second option is to prepare ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges of various sizes.
Nail the first board against the wall and secure the stops to the two joists. We already said that these could be staples or factory fittings. The distance between the stops and the first board should be several centimeters greater than the width of the second board. You can fix the stops further, and adjust the distance with stand boards - this is faster, but more difficult. Install the second board and, using wedges, pull it tightly to the first, the slight bend will be evened out. Secure the second board with any hardware. That’s it, you have mastered the “main operation”, continue installing the entire floor using the same method.
Don't forget to install a drain grate where the water drains. It can be homemade from galvanized sheet iron or purchased, there is no big difference, both do their functions perfectly.
Prices for floor boards
floor boards
Floors in the waiting room
There are three options - ordinary planks, insulated and heated. The first ones are no different from the non-spillable ones in the steam room, only they do not have a slope and, accordingly, no holes for draining water. Let's look at the two remaining options.
Insulated floors
The simplest option is to use polystyrene foam as insulation, although mineral wool can also be used in the dressing room. The columns, dimensions of beams, joists and boards are identical. The technology for installing insulation has slight differences. Let's start with this operation
Step 1. Rough floor. The insulation is placed between the rough and finished floors. The subfloor is attached to the joists from below and is made from scrap boards, slabs, used plywood sheets or OSB boards. This " economical option“If you have extra money, use new materials.
Step 2. Insulation materials are laid on the subfloor, make sure that between separate sheets There were no gaps in the insulation. If used mineral wool, then you will have to make steam and hydrobarriers, cotton wool is very afraid of moisture, and when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. But that's not all. Once wet it doesn't dry well. wooden structures are in prolonged contact with wet cotton wool. There is no need to tell what happens to them in such conditions.
Prices for OSB boards
OSB boards
Video - Subfloor
Step 3. Finish floor. We have already told you how to put it, now you already have it construction experience, the work will go faster.
Laying floorboards on top of insulation - penoplex
Electrically heated floors
Enough complex design, requires careful attention and some knowledge not only in construction, but also in electrical engineering. Before you get started, there are a few things you need to know.
- It is not advisable to use boards, laminate and other wooden coverings for heated floors. Firstly, they have very low thermal conductivity; most of the thermal energy will heat the ground, and not the floor and room. Secondly, the risk of cracks or cracking of the material increases significantly; even the use of boards with a relative humidity of 8% does not always save. The fact is that while you are using and laying purchased dry boards, they will absorb moisture. You can, of course, use artificial plastic boards, but is the “game worth the candle”?
- It is necessary to accurately determine the heat source. When heating with water, you need to network engineering from home or install a separate boiler in the bathhouse. Both options are questionable from an economic point of view. Remains electric version heating But here, too, problems arise - to be effective, the power of the heating elements should be approximately 140 W per square meter premises. These are quite large values, you need to make sure they match power lines power transmission to these indicators.
- Heating by electric current requires the installation of a complex of electrical wiring. All work should be carried out in strict compliance with the PUE. Do you have such knowledge?
If everything is fine, then you can begin the actual work. In our case, heated floors will be for ceramic coating; this is the most effective option.
| Stage | Description |
|---|---|
| Step 1. Preparing the base.
| The site needs to be leveled. Perfect option– use foam concrete. With its help, the site is leveled and it is ensured thermal insulation heating elements from the ground - the efficiency of using heated floors increases. But it is impossible to prepare foam concrete at home; you need special reagents (this is still being decided) and a special unit (this is no longer being decided). You will have to prepare ordinary concrete and cement-sand mixtures. The site should be leveled with concrete. To do this, first level the ground manually - the work will go faster and less concrete will be needed. Next, beacons are installed; you can buy them in a store, use even thin slats for these purposes, or make beacons from mortar. The third option is quite complicated, it requires skill and skill, it is better to use the first two. The beacons are installed below the level; try to make the base as level as possible and strictly in a horizontal plane. If the horizontal position is a little “naughty”, it’s not a problem, you’ll have time to level it out in the future. It is better to pour concrete over the entire area as quickly as possible, otherwise there will be breaks. The thickness of the concrete is within 5÷8 cm; if large loads on the floor are expected, reinforce it with construction reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø5 mm. There is no need to knit any mesh from the reinforcement, just lay it in the thickness of the concrete in rows at a distance of ≈ 30÷40 cm. Let it dry for at least a week, or better yet, two. The beacons do not need to be removed; they will not interfere. |
| Step 2. Thermal insulation.
| It is best to use high-strength foam up to ten centimeters thick. He also physical indicators the strength is quite suitable, and it is not difficult to work with, and at a cost it satisfies most developers. Lay the foam in even and dense rows. |
| Step 3. Screed.
| It should cover the foam and protect it from mechanical damage. For screeding, you need to use the so-called dry mortar. It is not completely dry, as you might think, it just contains much less water than usual. The moisture content is checked simply - you can squeeze it in your hand, moisture should not seep between your fingers, and the lump should not crumble. Advantages of dry mortar: due to its low density it conducts heat poorly (additional thermal insulation), working with it is very quick and easy, and its strength meets the required parameters. Make the screed in the same way as a concrete screed, thickness 2÷3 centimeters. |
| Step 4. Laying heating elements.
| There is nothing particularly complicated here, it’s not worth taking up time. Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow their recommendations. |
| Step 5. Laying ceramic tiles.
| The tiles can be laid immediately heating elements, but you can make another screed cement mortar, only not dry, but ordinary. The second option is preferable. Decide for yourself, the main thing is that the tiles do not damage electrical cables. The tiles are laid in the usual way. Here you already need to have at least some experience. If you have never done such work, you will have to learn on the go and suffer a little. Be prepared that it may not work out the first time. |
| Step 5. Connection.
| Manufacturers fully equip with all protection and control devices, connect them according to the rules of the Electrical Installation Regulations, select a location for installing the automation. |
Video - Screed
In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the floors in the dressing room. Before you start heated floors and heated floors, weigh everything carefully. These floors require skill, time and money, and the return on them is minimal. Any work must have logic, only in this case the efforts are justified. Think about how long you need to stand barefoot on a warm field for the insulation to retain the heat from the wooden coverings, return it back and “warm” your feet? How long does it take to warm up the floors (and how much will it cost) just to get undressed/dressed in a few minutes? Isn't it better and cheaper to use ordinary (or warm) slippers in the dressing room? And we described the technology for arranging warm and heated floors in the dressing room only because there is a demand for such types.
Installation of floors in a bathhouse is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wood or concrete-based. And a high-quality solution to the problem related to how to lay floors in a bathhouse will determine the quality of bathing procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bathhouse as a whole.
Let's find out how the floors in the bathhouse can be arranged with our own hands.
Wooden floor
Floor with wood covering can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.
Installation of non-leaking floors
The most simple design gender and the procedure is as follows:
- Floor beams are usually installed during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs. They usually rest on a foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between pillars in the case of a columnar foundation.
- If this was not done, then the beams can be embedded after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bathhouse independent of the foundation and walls. This will not affect how to lay the floor in the bathhouse.
In this case, it is necessary to lay separate columns under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as foundation columns.
Attention: Top level the columns should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and lower is undesirable, this will solve many problems in the future.
- Boards are nailed solidly to the floor beams from below, or 50x50 mm bars are nailed into the lower part of the sides of the beams. The subfloor is laid on these bars.
- After this, a layer of vapor barrier is spread over the rough boards.
- One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. This can be mineral wool or insulation based on basalt wool.
- Then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.
- A tongue and groove floorboard is laid on top of the beams.
If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.
This tilt should be made towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. It is best to use wood for a steam room hardwood, they are softer and high temperature do not emit harmful resins.
Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), there is no need to make such a slope, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.
Installation of leaking floors
Such floors are installed only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in a bathhouse of this type, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the future flooring.
To fix a leaking floor, do the following:
- The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured onto it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
- Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
- A concrete screed is placed on top, thereby creating a slope towards the water receiver. Water should be drained either into a septic tank or further from the bathhouse into the ground, which should absorb water well.
- At the end of the pipe that drains the water, it is necessary to install a special lock that does not let odors into the bathhouse.
- Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one or two centimeters between them.
Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the service life of the material.
Bulk floors
Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space with the floor beams. As a result, in winter the lower part of the room is quite cool, and good insulation is required.
But you can do it differently, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bathhouse, you can avoid laying insulation or the entry of cold air in case of leaking floors.
This is done like this:
- Floor beams are not installed at all.
- A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is poured onto the ground and compacted.
- Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also in a layer of 15-20 cm, also leveled and compacted.
- A concrete screed is poured on top within 10 cm.
Wooden floors
Wooden logs are laid on the screed, onto which tongue-and-groove floor boards are already installed. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to allow water to drain. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt it.
Ceramic tile floor
You can do it differently; you can lay it very well on even concrete. ceramic tiles. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.
Attention: Special, non-slip tiles must be used for the floor in the bathhouse in order to avoid falls.
In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a grid of wooden blocks on the floor.
Compared with wooden floors, concrete-based floors have advantages in that their price is lower and their service life is much longer. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in a bathhouse.
The atmosphere in the bathhouse with wooden floors and the same walls allows you to get good rest, therefore, before laying the floor in the bathhouse, you should think carefully about what will be healthier, and not cheaper.
Replacing the floor
Nothing lasts forever, and no matter how much we would like it, a situation often arises related to how to change the floor in a bathhouse.
There may be several reasons:
- The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
- It does not perform water drainage functions.
- He's simply tired of it.
- The floor is cold, slippery, etc.
And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to get. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.
Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as if it were new. Either it's done redecorating and new flooring is being laid.
Possible option complete replacement one type of floor to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is installed.
Conclusion
The floor in the bathhouse has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And the temperature in the room and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes largely depends on it. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.
Our portal can provide you with additional information on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repairs.
