Wooden vases - how to make them yourself. Wooden vase made from a flat panel. Detailed photo report DIY log vase
Second an important condition safe work A finely grooved chisel requires that it always be directed down the slope, i.e., towards a smaller diameter. This tool is usually sharpened at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out
using a special device that I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer turns out perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form the profile of a vase, you can use a deeply grooved one with a less jerky character, which is what I often do.
Photo 6 shows the finishing scrape of a turned outer surface vases with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is held at 45° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be done using a jamb chisel, as shown in photo 7. However, it has a very rough character and even poses a danger, since when buried it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time in the hands experienced specialist such a tool is universal, allowing you to turn almost anything, but only with a lobe arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., when turning transversely, a jamb chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade must be sharpened at 25° on the platform of the electric sharpener tool.
Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet sand the product with P220 grit sandpaper. why I dip the “skin” in a plate of water and spray the surface with a sprayer. This sanding is preliminary. and in the future, after drying the product, final finishing will be required. Next, I cut off the supporting protrusion on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in a chuck with the product supported by the tailstock (photo 10) for a tight fit of the front plane of the jaws to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be to drill a deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in a lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.
Steady rests for small lathes are not sold; you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (such devices also come in two- and four-wheeled versions) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220 mm, and the roller skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. I had just installed the steady when I needed to interrupt my work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap it around the vase (photo 12), otherwise the product made from damp apple wood (an extremely “crackling” species) would certainly have cracked during my absence. By the way, I also use this film to wrap half-finished bowls made of weak, very rotten wood to prevent them from flying apart into pieces when boring the internal cavity. The vase I conceived was supposed to be universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and fresh flowers. In the latter case, the water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, for example, a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside a vase (photo 13).
I did not have a suitable long drill (such as a Lewis spiral or a feather drill with grooves for removing chips) to make a hole in the neck of the vase. I had to attach a simple flat “perk” 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production kit onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drill chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow me to insert the cartridge into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the created device did not make it possible to secure it in a 10 mm cartridge conventional drill(9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the tool rest. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for ease of further use, the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.
At the stage finishing bottom, i.e. removing dents from the chuck jaws and leveling the end, it was necessary to unroll the almost finished vase on the machine. First, I machined a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and supported the bottom with a crown center from behind, into which I inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When I later turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the chuck using small F-type jaws, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.
Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The runout is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then you need to tap the mark with a mallet and move the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After this, the bottom is processed using a deep-grooved or shallow-grooved chisel (photo 19)
Upon completion of turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. In air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my products made from raw wood in one of two ways: either I put them in a paper craft bag filled with wet shavings of the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and place on a shelf in barn. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.
Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the thick lower part of the apple tree vase could not be avoided even after drying for two months in a craft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. It was necessary to seal the cracks by gluing thin plates of the same material, sawn on band saw and then processed with grinder Proxhop with carbide disc and Black&Decker electric file. The inserts turned out to be almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.
I must say that from the very beginning I was nagged by doubts about the legitimacy of the simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore out cavities in the bottom of vases, but this always presented various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, a protrusion is turned at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece. Having formed external profile bottom of the vase, you should immediately begin boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the chuck by the protrusion at the neck. Using a deep or shallow grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to insert any of the curved chisels - hinged, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by calipers.
Upon completion of the boring process, it is necessary to separately turn the plug from the same wood material suitable diameter and glue it into the hole of the protrusion (bottom). Here you should estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity so that the test tube, which will subsequently rest on it, extends outward by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, an additional hassle will arise with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.
I cut off the part of the glued plug that protrudes outward on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.
If the vase has a different shape with a much wider neck, then
The tag will not work here as a vessel with water. What to do? The solution came quite quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and turned it into a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Next, in my supplies, I found a two-meter bright green plastic tube with a diameter of 32 mm and cut a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microburner, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to resort to gluing, first by sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional split cut on it. By using industrial hair dryer I heated the piece until soft. unfolded it flat, placed it under the press, and after the leveled piece of plastic cooled, using a compass, I drew on it the outline of a circle, which will play the role of the bottom in a tube vessel. Next, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought it
size according to internal diameter tubes (28 mm) using a Black&Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of fairly universal waterproof superglue “Master” based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had had for ten years (photo 23). Bright color The vessel seemed vulgar to me, so I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the manufactured vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of the turned vase with a living goldenrod branch can be assessed in photo 24.
Finally, I would like to note that stores sell a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place them inside turned wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various breeds wood using the method described above.
DIY wooden vase - photo
Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a trestle. Photo 2. Sharpening a roughing chisel on an electric sharpener. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a roughing chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of the vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Finish scraping the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface using a jamb. Photo 8. Applying decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Trimming the support protrusion with a thin cutting chisel.
Photo 10. Clamping the bottom of the vase in a chuck with support from the tailstock. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing the vase cling film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start of drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.
Photo 16. Stopper in the hole of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support plate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center at the bottom. Photo 19. Additional processing of the bottom with a finely grooved chisel.
Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually done on lathe. But 90% of the wood turns into chips.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat panel.
Here's what happens:
It took me a long time to choose the material to test. On the one hand, you want something interesting, on the other hand, you don’t mind spoiling it.
In the end, I settled on walnut, with oak and wenge inserts.
A walnut board 75mm wide and 15mm thick is cut into 3 parts.
4mm oak veneer must be cut into 15mm dies.
How to do it if not circular saw, but have a couple of clamps and a scoring saw?
Like this - the fist is clamped between the nut dies...
And sawing.
The result is an even die of the required thickness:
I glue the walnut into a shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them there is a thin wenge veneer. (which was sawn using the same technology)
Scratches from the saw are visible. A slight sloppiness, plus solid oak, which was sawed along the grain.
No big deal, the shield will still have to be sanded to even out gluing errors.
And again I glue it with spacers and leave it overnight:
I use a belt sander to level the shield and remove any remaining glue. Perhaps we should have made the wenge continuous:
The result was a shield 14 mm thick. It took 0.5 mm on each side.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, the angle and pitch are selected:
I print the drawing, use an awl to combine the centers of the shield and the drawing, glue the drawing:
I cut a small rake at an angle of 38 degrees:
I fix the shield with clamps on the jigsaw table and using the rail as a guide, I drill 2mm holes with a drill at an angle of 38 degrees:
I insert a file into the hole:
And let's go!
Cut the first ring:
And here it is - the bottom!
The wood is very hard, it is sawed slowly, if you press it a little, the file will burst. To replace the file, you need to return the table to a horizontal position, unscrew the fastenings of the file, thread the shield, again adjust it to 38 degrees, adjust the tension... Moreover, the file almost always breaks when there is 3 cm left before the end of the ring.
Second ring, the picture begins to emerge.
Bottom view:
And after the fourth ring, the files ran out. I used one and a half packs. No more, I'm putting it off until tomorrow.
I stopped by the store, bought 8 packs of saws (to be sure there would be enough), and sawed:
I'll move the rings:
Sleight of hand and no fraud, the rings are folded into a vase:
Can be combined with shift. You can make inserts between layers. There are plenty of options.
I start gluing without a bottom for now, to make it easier to sand the inner surface:
Checking the alignment of layers:
I leave it overnight under load:
Result. The surface is rough, but the alignment of the lines is without serious disturbances.
The darkening is traces of sawing with an ultra-thin file (41 teeth per inch), which sank into sawdust and the wood burned.
It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempt number one - a steel rod with sandpaper glued to double-sided tape.
Not an option, too flexible.
Attempt number two, sanding drum on the same spindle.
It doesn’t fit either, the machine is lightweight (as I intended it to be). Doesn't hold up, plus it's inconvenient to work with.
Attempt number three. Sanding drum on a flexible sleeve.
The drum is small, sawdust flies where it is least needed, but you can work:
For fine grinding, I collect petals of 400 sandpaper:
But it doesn't polish. I continue with my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from ideal.
I discover an error - the penultimate ring is glued with an offset of 180 degrees.
Well, this will be a reminder...In the end, it could have been much worse. Let it add charm - it will be a border. The main thing is that the spacers aligned properly.
The biggest nuisance is the sweat that pours into your eyes and falls onto the vase.
The respirator was once snow-white:
I glue the bottom. To speed up the process, I use my weight with dumbbells in my hands as a press... The vase can withstand more than 100 kg without squeaking, despite its lightness and thin walls. Now I’m thinking, what would have happened if the vase had shattered?
Today we have another useful homemade product for home and garden made of wood - segment turned vase
A chiseled vase-breadbox with dimensions of 20 cm x 8 cm. assembled from several types of wood: pine, apple and oak. After assembly and gluing, the elements are ground and the finished product is coated with non-toxic varnish in three layers with intermediate manual grinding the first two layers. Base ten mm plywood good quality. First, squares of dark and light wood are glued onto the plywood (using PVA glue) in a checkerboard pattern. The workpieces are cut using tools to obtain accurate and uniform dimensions in terms of thickness and linear dimensions.
The next stage is turning the bottom on the machine. Before this operation, the sides of the square are cut to obtain an approximate circumference. The center of this circle to obtain a symmetrical pattern on the bottom is made before trimming the excess, i.e. on a square blank. Then the bottom was attached to the plan washer with self-tapping screws and everything was installed on the machine. Turning is carried out both along the radius and along the surface of the pasted pattern.
If you are making several vases at once, then when removing the part from the washer, you need to make a mark on the part and on the washer for subsequent installation in the same place. After processing the bottom, blanks for the walls of the vase are glued. As you can see from the photo, the shape of the blanks is needed in the form of a trapezoid. To do this, blocks of dark and light wood are cut on a circular saw, glued together in pairs and only then cut into a trapezoid shape.
The main thing in this work (preparing wall elements) is that the dimensions of the bars are the same in height and along the lengths of the sides of the trapezoid bars. In fact, when gluing subsequent rows, it is necessary to control the distance of each bar from the center and from each other in order to obtain identical holes in the walls of the vase.
If the height of the vase is small, you can glue all layers at once. PVA glue dries and gains strength in no more than four hours. Obviously, the blanks of each subsequent row will be longer if you want to make the same holes in all rows. The number of blocks in all rows will always be the same. 
With a slight change in diameter, you can get by with an increased width of the bars. In this case, there will be more waste in the form of chips. The vase, fully prepared for turning, is installed according to the marks made. Particular care is needed when turning objects with holes - do not overdo it, remove the chips little by little and work only with sharpened ones. You do the grinding without removing it from the machine, sequentially with several types of sandpaper, and it is better to do the latter with the same shavings.
5 675
How to make a vase from wood. Wood vases are usually round and made from a single piece, with turning converting 75 percent of the wood into chips. At the end we get one vase and a huge pile of shavings, but vases are not made from poplar - from valuable species tree, although the poplar has been growing for many years. Our method of making a vase from wood will be different. You will soon understand how to make a vase from wood, saving a lot of wood.
We will need:
- Glued board made of three types of wood (17*20*3 cm), or blocks of three types of wood, different shades.
- Drill.
- Wood drill.
- Sanding attachments.
- Clamps..
- Wood glue.
- Shellac (a substance widely used in woodworking).
- Muslin (cotton fabric), tassel.
Band saw for cutting wood.
The entire wooden vase can be formed from one glued board blank. This allows us to make the angle at which the rings of our future vase are cut. And the effect is as if the vase was made from a single piece.
First, we need laminated boards made from various types of wood (walnut, mahogany, maple).
The gluing along the long side is in this order: walnut, mahogany, maple, then mahogany, walnut. We fit the template to the center line of the adhesive strip and apply markings. It is the precise alignment of the central strip that will allow you to achieve the effect of a continuous blank.
We cut out the blank along the outer contour of the first ring, for this (as sad as it may be) you will need band saw for cutting wood.
After that. At the intersection of the center line of the workpiece and the inner oval of the marking, you need to drill a hole at an angle of 25 degrees in order to thread the saw.
For drilling at an angle, it is necessary to cut out an auxiliary template - cut off one edge wooden block of hardwood, at this angle. Write the angle values on the block (we will need several with different angles).
Then we cut out the core of the workpiece along the contour, setting the table angle to 25 degrees. We fit the ring to the rest of the board, aligning center stripes, trace along the inner edge, create a cutting line for the second ring. Next, we repeat the cutting procedure only, taking the hole angle to 28 degrees. Using the second ring, we make the third, adhering to the above instructions. As a result, we get three rings and the bottom of our wooden vase.
Glue three rings together. First we check whether they fit tightly to each other (you can align the rings and shine a flashlight inside). We adjust the irregularities, if any, with sandpaper and check again.
Apply glue to the rings and align them so that the center line appears solid. Clamp it into clamps using two boards.
Our glue has dried, time to sand.
We sand with various attachments, gradually reducing the grain size, to obtain a smooth surface. After sanding, glue the bottom, try so that the glue does not protrude; if it does, after five minutes, carefully release the clamps, wipe the glue with a dampened rag, and clamp it back until it dries completely. Next, we sand the vase along with the bottom.
The final operation is to apply several layers of shellac and add shine with a piece of muslin.
How to make a vase out of wood is now clear - but realizing your plan is not very easy, as it turned out.
If you have it on hand professional tool, you can master its capabilities endlessly. For example, an ordinary construction lathe is often used as a basis for making souvenirs and various decorative items. A beautifully crafted wooden candle holder on a lathe looks great in classic interior Houses. A large vase made of wood can amaze the imagination. Sometimes in my hands experienced craftsman a seemingly ordinary piece of wood turns into a real artistic masterpiece. How do they do it? What else can you grind yourself?
A wood lathe allows you to do not only construction blanks, but also different decorative items, which are designed to please the eye and demonstrate the capabilities of the equipment. Any crafts made from wood are very practical, they will always have a place in the house, so you can safely experiment and try to do something with your own hands. The easiest way is to turn a vase from wood; you can easily get a jug, a salt shaker and a box for storing all sorts of small things. You can suggest making chess.
Vase
How can you make a vase on a lathe? To make it, you may need a certain tool. In addition to the lathe, you need to take cutters, a plane, a hacksaw, a ruler, a compass, an ax and a saw, sanding paper and a chisel.
The process of turning a vase is extremely simple. True, it should be noted that vases can be complex in configuration and simple. Let's look at how you can carve a simple option.
- First, a block of wood 10-20 cm long is cut out with a saw.
- It must be trimmed with a plane, both from the ends and along the length.
- The workpiece is installed in the machine chuck.
- The machine is turned on and checked for runout of the part.
- If it is present, alignment must be carried out.
- The top layer of wood is removed to a depth of 1 cm.
- A chamfer is removed at an angle of 45° from the outer end.
- IN tailstock the drill is inserted.
- A hole is drilled with a depth less than the length of the workpiece by 3-5 cm. That is, the bottom of the vase is determined.
- Now, using a cutting tool called a joint, the cavity of the product is cut out.
Since the vase can have different shapes: straight, oval, and so on, the boring of the upper surface is accordingly maintained in the exact shape. After which the product is polished outside and inside. What is sandpaper used for? The wooden product is removed from the machine, the bottom is finished by hand using a plane and sandpaper. After which the souvenir is varnished.
Chess
Chess figures are small, so their manufacture requires a certain amount of experience and firmness of the turner's hand, as well as his eye. To make a figure you will need a small block of wood with a cross section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm. On one side, it is formed into a smaller section, for example, 40x40 or 30x30 mm, as shown in the video.
With this smaller end, the workpiece is inserted and clamped into the chuck. Now you need to cut the free end of the blank with a cutter and press it with the center of the tailstock. A layer of wood is removed with a cutter so that the workpiece becomes round section. Then you can start making your own chess piece. You can use traditional forms, or you can get creative.
As soon as the figure is completely ready, it must be sanded and finally cut off from the pressed part of the workpiece. All that remains is to manually varnish it or paint it black or White color. By the way, a wooden candlestick is made on a lathe in exactly the same way. Its length is greater, which means a longer workpiece will be needed.
Making a box
The box is not the best complex element, which can be turned on a lathe. But if this is a product with a lid, then drawings will be required here. After all, the lid must fit into the box and sit on the groove, that is, the lid must be flush with the edge of the product itself.
To make a box you will need cylindrical blank, which is installed in a lathe. The main thing is that the workpiece does not reach the bed.
- First, a layer of wood is removed with a semicircular cutter to give the workpiece a rounded shape.
- Then you need to work the surface with a joint, that is, make it smooth.
- After which it is necessary to form internal cavity wooden product. For this, a narrow straight cutter is used. This operation cannot be completed in one pass, so it will have to be carried out in stages.
- Using a triangular cutter, you can expand the internal cavity to the thickness of the walls.
- The bottom of the box is aligned straight, but wide incisor. They also make the groove for the lid.
- The internal and external surfaces are polished.
- Varnish is applied on top, wax on the inside.
The lid is made of the same material as the box itself. It just requires a thin workpiece, which is fixed in the chuck of a woodworking lathe. First, processing is carried out with a wide straight cutter, that is, it is formed inner part, it can be flat or concave inward. Sanding is required.
Then the outer part is formed, for which the workpiece will have to be turned over. That is, the semi-finished part of the lid is cut off and the almost finished inside installed in the cartridge. Then, using the same cutter, the outer side of the lid is formed. It can also be flat or convex. Finally, sanding is carried out. After which the finished product is varnished.
In principle, the order in which the sides are made can be changed if there is a handle holder on the lid. To do this, you will have to take a thicker workpiece to sharpen the handle. It can be round, oval or shaped. You can make the handle as a separately turned element and attach it to the lid of the box with adhesive.
The diameter of the lid must correspond to the diameter of the inner groove of the box. That is, the cover should fit freely into the groove.
These are the products you can make with your own hands on a wood lathe. The most difficult of the above decorative items- this is a box. Here it is necessary to strictly adhere to the dimensions, especially with regard to wall thickness. We made it a little thinner, and there is a high probability that it will burst over time. In addition, you will have to strictly adhere to the diameters of the lid and groove on the box itself. If one of the sizes does not match, then either the lid will fall inside the box, or it will end up on the edge of the product.
Therefore, when turning on a lathe homemade crafts wood requires attention and accuracy (the work is not rough). Of course, it is necessary to take measurements with a caliper during the work process.
