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How to properly line a sauna from the inside. What kind of clapboard to cover the bathhouse. Video - Insulation of bath walls

A home sauna or bathhouse can be not only convenient and practical, but also very original. Even using standard materials for decoration, you can decorate the interior in a very interesting and unusual way, the main thing is to show your imagination. Combining wood and tiles, combining contrasting shades, experimenting with shelf shapes will make the room truly exclusive. In addition, finishing a sauna with your own hands will not require large expenses or special knowledge.

Wood is considered the ideal finishing material for a steam room. The wood must have high density, beautiful appearance, and resistance to rotting. It is not recommended to line the steam room with pine: when heated, it releases a large amount of resin. If funds allow, you can purchase African oak, Canadian cedar, fir or rosewood. These breeds have a delicate aroma, very beautiful patterns and attractive shades.

Budget options include linden, birch, aspen, ash and alder. Linden croaker covered with bast is in great demand. Its surface is pleasant to the touch, never gets too hot and, thanks to its porous structure, has the ability to regulate humidity in the steam room. Birch, like alder, is valued for its medicinal properties, and ash for its durability and beautiful cut core.

To line the washing room, it is not necessary to use the same wood as in the steam room. Pine lining is ideal for this room: thanks to the presence of resin, the tree is not afraid high humidity, emits a pleasant aroma, does not rot, preserves for a long time beautiful colour. Spruce lining has the same properties, which is why it is also often used to decorate a sauna washroom.

Not only the species, but also the quality of the wood is of great importance. You should choose boards with a minimum number of knots, well dried, without bending or black spots. When cut, the wood should have an even light shade; slices gray indicate poor quality of the material and inappropriate storage conditions.

Along with wood, other materials are also used in sauna decoration. The areas around the stove are exposed to high temperatures, and therefore they need to be lined with stone or heat-resistant tiles. It is also recommended to tile the walls of the shower, individual areas of the sink and the floor. For convenience, you can install on a tiled floor wooden pallets rectangular or square shape. To make the sauna interior extraordinary, you should wisely combine wood with stone and tiles.

Surface preparation

Before you begin finishing, you need to properly prepare the floor, ceiling and walls of the room: isolate them from moisture, insulate them well, and test them for strength. Wooden ceiling and the walls must be treated with a primer with antiseptic properties; walls made of bricks or blocks are leveled with cement plaster.

The floor is leveled especially carefully: both tiling and plank flooring require the most even surface with a slight slope. At the preparation stage, they think about the location of the water drain and chimney, and install everything necessary.

Finishing technology

During the finishing work you will need:

• building level;
• screwdriver;
• regular and rubber hammer;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws;
• tile adhesive;
• notched spatula;
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• clinker tiles;
• lining;
• timber and slats for sheathing;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier film.

Step 1. Floor covering

Finishing a sauna should start from the floor. Clinker tiles are usually chosen for cladding, since its surface does not slip even after getting wet. Experienced builders It is recommended to immerse the tiles in water before laying, which will reduce glue consumption. So, mix the glue, lay out the tiles, and take a notched trowel.

Finishing the floor in the steam room

The cladding begins from the corner opposite the entrance to the steam room. On concrete surface Apply a layer of heat-resistant glue and level it with a notched trowel. Place the first tile, press it to the floor, and insert plastic crosses between the wall and the edge of the tile. Next, adjacent tiles are laid, again inserting crosses to ensure uniform seams. Be sure to check the horizontal position of the tiles, and adjust the protruding elements with a rubber hammer. Excess glue is wiped off with a clean, dry cloth so that there are no sloppy marks left.

After covering the entire surface, the joints are grouted with a special compound. It is applied with a narrow rubber or metal spatula, thoroughly rubbed into the seams, and the excess is removed. Finally, wipe the floor with a clean damp cloth. While the glue dries, you can start making wooden pallets.

Step 2. Installation of lathing on the walls

To insulate and vapor barrier the walls, you will need lathing. To make it they take flat timber 50x50 mm and nailed to the base of the wall. If the walls are brick or made of blocks, the sheathing is secured with anchor bolts. The sheathing is attached to the sheathing perpendicular to the beams, so for horizontal sheathing, the beams are nailed to the walls vertically and vice versa. The distance between the posts is approximately 50 cm.

Step 3. Laying thermal insulation

A waterproofing membrane is stapled on top of the sheathing so that the material sag slightly. Sheets of insulation are inserted between the timber racks in one or two layers. The thickness of the insulation should not exceed the thickness of the studs. Carefully check the surface for gaps and cracks and, if necessary, blow it with foam. The final layer is a vapor barrier film. It is also attached to the frame with staplers, laying the material with an overlap of 10 cm. The seams are sealed with tape.

Step 4: Wall paneling

At this stage, it becomes possible to show your imagination and decorate the interior to your liking. You can completely cover the walls with clapboard or boards, selecting fragments of different shades, or you can combine wood and tiles. Stone-like tiles around the perimeter of the doorway framed in light wood look beautiful. The mosaic inserts in the middle look original wood panels niches framed with tiles for bath accessories, masonry around the stove.

All wooden elements They are brought into the room a day before the start of work so that the material acclimatizes. First you need to mark the areas for tiles and wood, and then start covering. Wooden slats are placed across the racks, which will provide a gap between the finishing coating and the vapor barrier layer. Then the lining is attached to the slats using self-tapping screws, checking the vertical position of the boards with a level.

In the steam room, it is advisable to make inserts of heat-resistant tiles only around the stove, but in the washing and changing rooms you can tile any surfaces. After cladding with wood, the remaining areas are covered with decorative tiles. The joints between the end board and the ceramics should be as smooth and tight as possible, so all gaps are sealed with mastic.

Step 5. Ceiling finishing

The ceiling beams are covered with waterproofing film, fixing it to the ceilings with staplers. The space between the beams is filled with any insulation, the thickness of which does not exceed the thickness of the beams themselves. Then the insulation layer is carefully covered with a vapor barrier film or foil, and the seams are sealed with a special tape. Slats 2 cm thick are nailed to the protruding beams every half meter. Attached to the slats finishing- lining.

Sauna paneling with bamboo panels

An alternative wood paneling are bamboo panels. This material is just gaining popularity, so it is not often found in home saunas. Bamboo panels have a lot of advantages: they are not afraid high temperatures, humidity, mold, have high strength and an unusually attractive appearance. Due to their flexibility, these panels can easily take on any shape, so they can be mounted on curved and rounded surfaces, arches and niches.

To cover the walls of the sauna with bamboo panels, the surface is prepared in the same way as the linings. After insulation and fastening vapor barrier film Strong wooden slats with a thickness of 2 cm or more are nailed or screwed to the racks. The panels are attached to the slats with the staples of a construction stapler or with liquid nails if the panels are small.

Manufacturing and installation of shelves

Furnishings always play an important role in interior decoration. In the sauna, this function is assigned to the shelves. Usually they have a rectangular shape and are mounted on 2-3 levels. They are sheathed completely or with small gaps, and linden boards are used as sheathing. There are 3 ways to arrange a shelf in a steam room: “compartment”, stepped and L-shaped.

The first option involves the arrangement of a lower stationary shelf and an upper lifting shelf adjacent to the wall. This method allows you to save space in a small sauna: if necessary, the seat can be easily raised and fixed in this position against the wall. The second option is to install three shelves different widths against one of the walls. The shelves are located one above the other, the widest is attached at the bottom and is the coldest. With the L-shaped method, two shelves are installed around the perimeter of the corner, and the third is mounted above one of them.

Of course, the easiest way is to assemble shelves of a standard type and size by arranging it in one of the described ways. But if you use your imagination, you can make everything much more interesting. For example, if you use light wood to cover a shelf and fasten a dark-colored board around the edge, the appearance of the room will noticeably change.

The corners of the shelves can be rounded or decorated with parts cut out with a jigsaw, lattice fragments can be inserted between the solid upholstery of the seats, and the seats can be moved along the walls in a checkerboard pattern. Anything that differs from the standard arouses interest and attracts attention, so even a small change in shape will help add a touch of originality to the decoration.

Video - Do-it-yourself sauna finishing

Bathhouse in your own country house can become a source of complete and healthy rest, which is perhaps why most owners of such houses try to build this building on their site. Wanting to increase the level of relaxation, it is recommended to pay particular attention to the process of choosing materials and the immediate finishing interior walls baths or modern sauna.

Widely used in the process of interior decoration of baths and saunas - wooden lining, finishing material made of various breeds wood, with excellent quality and durability characteristics. It is this material that can offer a high level of environmental friendliness, while creating a good and cozy atmosphere in the process of taking water procedures.

What kind of clapboard to cover a bathhouse

Covering bathhouse walls with clapboards begins with selecting the type of wood for the future clapboard. It is worth noting that you will need to decide on the type of lining itself, since there is a fairly large assortment of this product on the market, varying in quality and characteristics.

As a rule, the healing effect of staying inside and the appearance of the walls of the bathhouse depend on the type and type of material. The profile and class of the lining are also not the last factors when choosing.

Classification of lining

In the process of interior finishing of a bathhouse, lining made of hardwood wood, often rooms can be finished using this material made from coniferous trees.

Which clapboard is better to cover a bathhouse - it all depends on your wishes and preferences; most owners of future saunas and bath complexes try to choose the material for cladding depending on its characteristics and appearance.

Hardwood:

• Linden;
• Aspen;
• Alder;
• Ash.

Coniferous species include:

• Cedar;
• Larch;
• Pine;

Advice!!
When buying lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse, pay special attention to the presence of knots; there should not be any.
It is the presence of knots on the material that makes it a fire hazard, as they quickly heat up and can become a direct source of fire.

1. Oak as a material for making lining is famous for its level of strength and flexibility. Another advantage when choosing this material is the beautiful color of oak lining, closer to matte light, up to dark brown, with a slightly rough surface that cannot be sanded to a completely perfect state.
2. Cedar - as a material related to coniferous wood, is not only high-quality wood, but also the most valuable and beautiful breed. It is the cedar lining that is used in the cladding of such rooms or washing rooms, giving off a pleasant smell.
   Cedar also has such natural characteristics as:
   
   • antiseptic properties,
   • possibility of fast and easy processing;
   • and, of course, a beautiful, natural color.

Note!
Cedar, in principle, like any other material, can be counterfeited, thus, on the market you can see a huge assortment of lining made to look like cedar, the price of which is no different from the natural material.
The quality of the fake is also in no way similar to natural cedar lining.
But be careful.

Installation options for lining

To the question of how to line a bathhouse with clapboard, you will receive from each master a unique answer and an almost identical basis of technology, which is used by all specialists offering services for the interior finishing of a bathhouse or sauna using the specified product.

The internal lining of a bathhouse with clapboard technology is usually the same for all its types, the whole point is that the fastening finishing material occurs on a wooden frame, therefore, there can be no differences in this process.

If we talk about the methods of fastening the finishing material, there are several differences, as well as the options for placing the lining itself on the walls.

If we line the bathhouse with clapboards ourselves, then we should know about the three most popular and widely used methods of placing wooden planks:

• Vertical;
• Horizontal;
• Diagonal.

And as a consequence:

• Combined.

The vertical method requires placing wooden planks against the wall, in vertical view, the result which will be perpendicular to the strips of the lining itself. Here the bars are attached horizontally.

For diagonal placement of the lining, the bars should be fastened perpendicular to the planks.

As a combined method, you can combine each of the above mentioned options and types of placement of the bar, thus making the interior more interesting and remarkable.

Covering the baths with clapboard

Covering a sauna with clapboard is not something long and requires a lot of experience.

• The first stage, of course, will be preparatory work;
• The second is creation wooden frame for subsequent fastening of lining strips;
• The third step is installation insulating materials and the installation of the lining itself.
• The fourth and final step can be considered finishing the lining itself, applying a protective layer.

Preparatory work

Before immediately starting work on decorating the walls of the bathhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to carry out preparatory work, which most often includes preparation for further work.

If there are sufficiently deep differences on the walls, at the rate of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter, then work should be done to level the surface. In this case, you can use plaster or putty - the most optimal and inexpensive option.

To increase the level of resistance and durability of the building, as well as to eliminate the possibility of fungus and mold appearing on the walls, most experts recommend applying special protective agents to the walls.

Afterwards, work begins on installing communications, which can include:

• Electricity supply;
• Water supply;
• Everything that can be easily and quickly hidden using wooden panels.

As the last work at this stage, we can note the purchase of direct lining strips and other fastening materials, in particular we are talking about wooden blocks, hangers, and various heat-insulating materials.

The photo shows high-quality installed wiring in the bathhouse

Note!!
We recommend that you bring the purchased lining inside the bathhouse and leave it there for two days; this will allow the material to age, thereby getting used to the climate of the room itself, eliminating the appearance of cracks and chips during further use of the finishing material.

Installation of sheathing

The instructions below will help you understand how to choose the right sheathing and how to subsequently lay it thermal insulation material between the bars.

To create a frame for the subsequent installation of the lining, you should use only a wooden block, optimal size 20x50 mm. When cutting, you can use sizes of 1000 mm in length and 500 mm; also, at your discretion, depending on the type of bath structure itself, you can choose a different ratio of sizes.

Afterwards, we install metal hangers; they should be placed at a distance of 30-40 centimeters, while the distance between the rows with beams will be about 40-50 centimeters. We attach the hangers to the wall using dowels. We attach bars for the frame to the pendants.

Laying insulation

Before installing the lining strips on the wall, work is carried out to insulate the bathhouse. Most often, in the process of performing these works, mineral wool is used - as an inexpensive material, but at the same time high-quality and effective, fully meeting modern requirements for creating bath complexes and saunas.

On top of mineral wool, it is recommended to install a vapor barrier layer in the form of a vapor barrier film; a wide selection on the market is presented by the ISOSPAN company; these materials help to achieve a comprehensive solution to issues related to the implementation of high-quality heat and vapor barrier of a single room or bathhouse as a whole.

Installation of lining

The installation process can be divided into several main components.

In particular, we are talking about:

• Fastening the lining with galvanized tenon screws. It is recommended to drill holes for self-tapping screws to prevent chipping.
• Start the sheathing process from the very beginning hard to reach place, it should be remembered that the very last board will have to be adjusted both in length and width.

• The corners of the rooms are finished with special wooden baseboard, which is secured with stainless steel nails. Some experts recommend the use of glue when attaching such elements, which is considered by most to be a waste of material and money, since glue is simply ineffective in rooms with high temperatures and constant fluctuations.

Finally

Finishing a bath room with clapboard is the right solution in achieving natural comfort. Some more information on the topic discussed is suggested by the video in this article.

Get the most out of modern bathhouse will succeed only if you comply the right technology its construction. An important role is also played by the interior decoration of the steam room and other rooms. This will provide excellent thermal insulation and create the right atmosphere in each room.

The interior of the bathhouse can be finished with clapboards with your own hands or with the help of hired specialists. During work, it is important to take into account certain nuances related to the characteristics of the material and methods of its installation.

Current material

In the old days, the bathhouse was made of thick logs, which had to be heated for 3-4 hours. They gained heat and maintained a comfortable temperature for a long time during the procedure. However, with intensive use, the tree quickly became unusable under the influence of high temperature changes.

Nowadays, more advanced technologies are used, when the steam room is subjected to excellent thermal insulation in several layers with modern materials. In this case, the inner layer is finished with clapboard of the steam room bath. Even its slight thickness is enough to provide the desired healing effect.

In the process of finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards, certain types of wood are used. The following varieties are common:

This wood is one of the most expensive, but at the same time has excellent physical characteristics. Thanks to it, the air is filled with a light pleasant aroma, which provides a therapeutic and preventive effect. Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse with cedar lining, unlike the use of other coniferous wood, does not create resinous drops on the surface of the decor when the steam room is heated. Also, due to its structure, cedar is not subject to significant overheating, which minimizes the possibility of burns.

Very often, deciduous trees are used for interior decoration of bathhouses with clapboards. They have many advantages over coniferous varieties. Linden boards withstand exposure to water and steam without changing in color, structure and other characteristics. Even rows can be easily laid on walls, floors, and ceilings. Benches for steam rooms are often made from linden, and a door made from it will not swell or twist under the influence of various factors.

It is also highly resistant to moisture, while its cost is lower than linden. The material requires maintaining stable parameters during drying in order to give it correct characteristics. The high density of the structure allows you to create thermally constant conditions inside the steam room for a long time.

Most budget options finishing the bathhouse with clapboard ( various photos available on the website) involve the use of pine wood. However, it is not recommended to stuff it directly into the steam room, since when the temperature rises, excessively aromatic wood resins are released abundantly, which can lead to burns. It is especially important not to use this material for finishing the ceiling in a bathhouse or in a steam room. After all, tarry condensation will drip from above.

If pine lining cannot be used in principle for a steam room, then it is just right for a dressing room. In this room, the temperature does not change critically, which will ensure the preservation of the geometry of the product and its long service life. For a washing room, pine is also not the best solution. In general, if this is a separate room with barrels or other containers with water, then it is better to use ceramic tiles for registration. However, it is recommended to choose a non-slip material. on which it will be impossible to fall and injure yourself.

When purchasing blanks for finishing a bathhouse with clapboards, you need to check the certificates of conformity so as not to fall for a fake. This is especially true for expensive wood species.

Why lining and not tiles

All surfaces in and outside the steam room are important. Often tiles are laid on the floor there, as they consider this coating to be more practical. However, unlike wooden surface it has its disadvantages:

• with tiles you get a more slippery floor, which can cause falls and injuries;
• The thermal conductivity coefficient of tiles is higher, which makes the ceramic surface cooler than wood.

The issue can be resolved by installing it on top of a tile floor. wooden flooring. They will maintain a slope towards the drainage area. It is advisable to select wood with a thickness of about 25-30 mm.

Decor and insulation at the same time

It is especially important to carry out high-quality thermal insulation before covering. To do this, use a layer of mineral wool, placing it between the padded slats in the steam room, and then make hydro- and thermal insulation. A wooden layer is stuffed on top of the foil material. This is done in two ways.

• Vertical. It is generally accepted that such wall decoration in a steam bath with clapboard provides uneven heating to the material. This reduces the performance characteristics of the material, which reduces its service life. This is especially important for rooms with high humidity. In the case of operating the bath in sauna mode, this effect is decisive and can therefore be used. It will be possible to increase microcirculation if you drill several holes in the wooden sheathing up to the thermal insulation layer.

• Horizontally. For the transverse arrangement of the bathhouse finishing inside the clapboard, deformation from temperature influence less noticeable. This method allows you to visually expand the room. The right-to-left arrangement provides significantly more efficient air circulation. It is believed that this format will complicate the work of rodents. The work will also be completed faster.

When positioned horizontally, the groove is usually directed downwards.

Ceiling decoration

In order to ensure harmonious design, the ceiling of the bathhouse is also decorated with clapboards with your own hands. A single ensemble can be diversified with individual color accents.

Before covering the ceiling with clapboard, it is necessary to decorate the surface vapor barrier material(further provided that it is already in the floor slabs. Vapor barrier is needed in order to absorb condensation that forms during a significant temperature difference and high humidity in the room. If such a layer is not provided, over time a pathogenic environment will develop on the ceiling, as a result Which means you'll have to completely replace the ceiling.

Don't forget to provide protected light sources. They can be located on the walls or under the ceiling. Often sealed lamps are placed near the ventilation hole.

Arrangement of a washing room

It is not recommended to decorate the bathhouse with clapboard made of various types of wood. This is due to the fact that the material, with poor ventilation, quickly rots, losing its presentable appearance. Current solution is PVC installation linings on the shower walls. It is a more practical solution in this situation.

Finishing the bathhouse floor inside with clapboard - photo examples

Do-it-yourself finishing of a bathhouse with clapboard inside: photo, video step-by-step instructions

The interior of the bathhouse can be finished with clapboards with your own hands or with the help of hired specialists. It is important to take into account certain nuances during work.

Material selection

For cladding residential premises, dense and fairly durable softwood lining. Due to the high content of natural resins, which are aniseptics, it is little susceptible to rotting and can last quite a long time. However, it is not suitable for a wet steam room. When heated in the presence of a large amount of moisture, such material will have a pungent, resinous odor. In addition, a carriage made of pine needles gets quite hot, and if you touch the walls made of such material, you can even get burned.

Linden and aspen lining

Eurolining with tongue-and-groove system and slots for ventilation

Calculation of material quantity

So that the board does not have to be cut, it is better to take the lining according to the ceiling height, for example, 2.5 m. In this case to calculate the required quantity It will be enough to measure the length of the wall and then divide it by the width of the board. Information about the lining should be clarified with the seller. Its maximum width 15 cm excluding grooves.

Preparatory work

1. To ensure that the boards fit snugly against each other, the shalevka should be dried. But even a perfectly dried board should last at least 24 hours indoors so that the material can adapt.

Treatment of lining with a protective compound

Processing the lining with sandpaper

The main stages of clapboard cladding

1. Before covering concrete or brick walls a wooden or metal frame is first attached to them lathing with an indentation of 0.5 m. When the lining is positioned horizontally, it is attached vertically; when installed vertically, it is mounted across the walls. It is allowed to attach the shalevka to wooden walls without lathing, but in this case there will not be a sufficient flow of ventilation, which can lead to its rapid rotting.

Wooden and metal sheathing

Dowels for lining

6. If the board is positioned vertically, to install the first fastener, you should step back from the wall at a distance equal to the width of the panel.

Staples for lining

Alignment by level

How to nail lining?

When using boards without grooves and tenons, the lining can be nailed to the sheathing with ordinary nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. In this case, nails are used finishing(with a small hat).

How to line the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

Regardless of what material the bathhouse is built from, wood is traditionally preferred for its interior decoration. But before you line the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, you will need to carry out preparatory activities, the main of which is insulation. You will also have to decide a few strictly technical issues: select the type of material and installation method, calculate the required quantity.

Lining is an ideal material for finishing bath walls

Probably everyone knows the history of the appearance of lining, which was originally used for covering railway cars. But this type of cladding, due to a kind of interlocking connection, was found wide application and as a finishing material for houses.

But the most popular lining in the interior of a bathhouse has become due to the ability to ensure a tight fit, without gaps, edged boards to each other, as well as to natural origin.

In some cases, the bath can also be used plastic lining, but only in the wash room or in the recreation area, locker room. Wood, and only wood, is suitable for a steam room.

Plastic cannot withstand high temperatures, can serve as a source of harmful fumes, and is also a fire hazard.

Wood, on the contrary, is considered an ideal material that additionally has a healing effect due to resins, which, when heated, release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on human health.

There are two types of lining on the modern market: regular and Euro standard. The first is distinguished by a characteristic rough fleecy surface, while the second has an absolutely smooth front side.

Eurolining has one more difference from the usual one, namely the presence ventilation ducts. They have the form of recesses located on the reverse side, thanks to which ventilation processes occur that prevent the formation of condensation, and also serve at the same time to compensate for the stress of the material.

Types of lining for interior decoration of baths

To choose a lining for a bath or sauna, you should decide on your preferences for its external shape and profile, as well as the type of wood. In addition, depending on the capabilities of the “bath” budget, then the variety that determines its quality.

In terms of the variety of types of profiles, the lining is very diverse, but before making the final choice, you should take into account that the installation method will also depend on this. Therefore, if you are decorating the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard yourself, then you should think about this in advance.

So, the lining profile is:

As a rule, the profile depends on which machine was used to produce the lining, although large industrial machines have the ability to produce different types of material.

And in the event that the lining is planned to be used not only for lining a bathhouse, but also rooms in the house, you can either purchase special equipment or make it yourself for the manufacture of wood products, the cost of which is much lower than the finished product.

When choosing lining, you should also pay attention to the markings indicating the grade of the material.

• Variety ( Class) Extra ( Premium) or 0 has a perfectly smooth surface, and cracks or knots are completely excluded. In terms of price, this is the most expensive material.
• Grade 1 or A - allows the presence of no more than one knot per 1 running meter of the product and small non-through cracks, no more than 9 cm. In addition, the presence of resin pockets, but not more than 2 units per 1 linear meter. Although the surface is smooth, there may be slight roughness
• Grade 2 or B – also has through cracks, 15-25 cm long, but not exceeding 1 mm wide. The number of knots per 1 linear meter has been increased to two, and in addition, the presence of wormholes and even rot is allowed ( but no more than 10%). In a bathhouse, wall cladding with this type of clapboard can be used in all rooms except the steam room, since it is mainly subjected to a painting process, which is unacceptable for rooms with high humidity and temperature.
• Grade C or 3 - characterized by the presence of a large number of different defects and is not used for interior decoration of a bathhouse and is mainly used for technical or auxiliary purposes, for example, for performing rough work on various objects.

Choosing wood for lining

To decorate a bathhouse, both material made from coniferous and deciduous trees can be used.

If the shower or wash compartment is also lined with wooden material, then it is best suited for this purpose. larch paneling, the wood of which is famous for its high resistance to high humidity.

It accumulates heat well in the steam room, but is not capable of causing a burn on the body upon contact with it. Thanks to this feature and amazing healing qualities, this sauna lining is also a very attractive finishing option.

Oak, another representative of hardwood, is also revered by many developers. Known for its high strength characteristics and a beautiful design. It is a source of phytoncides that have a strong antiseptic effect.

Aspen is one of the most “bathed” types of wood. For a long time It was this tree that was the main supplier of material for the construction and finishing of the bathhouse.

Just like linden, it has a high accumulating capacity, but low thermal conductivity, which prevents burns from touching it.

Ash paneling It has an unusually beautiful pattern and can withstand extremely high temperatures and high humidity. In terms of strength, ash wood is only slightly inferior to oak wood, but in terms of ease of processing it is significantly superior.

Alder - like oak, is a storehouse of tannins, which makes the choice of lining from it for finishing a bath the right decision. It has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.

But due to the presence of a large amount of resins, it is not recommended for a steam room, although in all other rooms it is optimal choice both in aesthetic and performance characteristics, and in price.

Spruce lining It is found on the market much less frequently, although it also has beautiful wood that is easy to process. It is superior to pine in terms of the amount of resin, so the recommendations for its use are the same.

If you want to turn your bathhouse into a truly beautiful object, in which not only the body and soul, but also the eyes can rest, then choose cedar lining belonging to elite breeds. It has a pleasant smell, beautiful characteristic pattern and color.

The choice of material for finishing a bath is quite extensive, but to determine which lining is better for a steam room?, you should start from your own aesthetic preferences, performance characteristics and properties, as well as cost.

How to attach the lining to the wall of a bathhouse?

The lining should be attached to a pre-prepared frame made of wooden beams in three ways:

1. horizontal;
2. vertical;
3. diagonal.

Depending on how the lining will be installed, a sheathing is installed, which should be perpendicular to the direction of the pattern. Each method has its own advantages.

For example, when vertical and diagonal it is possible to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the seams, and horizontal It is attractive because it allows, if necessary, to easily replace elements that have become darkened or show signs of rot, without dismantling the entire wall.

Fastening the lining: methods and choice of materials

Only galvanized nails or clamps should be used to secure the sheathing. This will avoid the process of metal corrosion and the appearance of characteristic smudges on the surface of the lining.

Most often, clapboard cladding is performed on the sheathing in the following ways:

In cases where there is a risk of the structure shrinking, a sliding sheathing is installed under the lining, which involves the use of additional guides. But it should be borne in mind that this option is only suitable for the horizontal installation method.

To compensate for shrinkage processes, you can also make a cutout on the frame strip located in the upper part of the wall, which will be able to slide down along with the lining attached to it.

In addition, we should not forget about the necessary gap of 2-3 mm between the slats to prevent deformation of the material during thermal expansion.

Additionally, a free distance of approximately 15 mm should be provided between the ceiling and the upper lamella, which will subsequently be covered with a plinth.

As a rule, in a steam room, all surfaces, except the floor, are finished in the same style and from the same material, so to make clapboard ceiling The same techniques should be used as for walls.

Installation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation and how to cover the lining in the bathhouse

But before you begin installing the lining from the lining, you should perform a number of mandatory measures:

• level the walls, if necessary;
• perform caulking if the bathhouse is wooden;
• lay thermal insulation;
• arrange reliable hydro- and vapor barrier.

The first layer in this “pie” is waterproofing, which is laid directly on the surface of the walls or ceiling.

Next, you should lay insulation, in the role of which it is best to use mineral wool, as a material characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient, fire resistance and safety for human health even when exposed to high temperatures.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, the functions of which are limited to preventing the formation of condensation on the surface of the lining, but in some cases it can also serve as a waterproofing agent.

The final touch in the work of lining a bathhouse with clapboard is its processing, which has some features, since in pairs department The use of paints and varnishes is not recommended. Yes, this is not necessary, since the appearance of the tree is quite aesthetic.

In some cases, having mastered the glazing technique, painted lining made from inexpensive wood is able to purchase the new kind material made from expensive and elite species. To treat the lining in other rooms of the bathhouse, it is quite acceptable to use varnishes.

You should also always remember that wood in a bathhouse is constantly exposed to negative factors, so the lining must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants.

How to line the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

How to line the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands? Cladding with clapboard made of larch, cedar, aspen and other types of wood. Installation plastic lining on the ceiling.

Do-it-yourself finishing of a bathhouse with clapboard - installation technology

The difficult stage is behind us - the construction of the building for the bathhouse. The eye can't get enough of it, because the owner of the building has long dreamed of a hot, nice bathhouse for his family! The moment has come for an equally important operation - internal device premises.

The simplest and most easily accessible option would be to finish the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, since technological process its installation is accessible even to novice craftsmen. For work high level difficulties, specialists are usually invited, but in this case there is no need for this.

Advantages

How does interior finishing of a bathhouse with clapboard differ from other types of indoor operations, what are its advantages?

1. Wood is a natural, lightweight material, which, thanks to its unique natural properties creates favorable microclimate in a building, absorbs excess moisture and evaporates it in dry air.
2. The material is durable, wear-resistant, does not require careful constant care when used correctly, and is affordable for almost everyone.
3. Wood perfectly insulates sound and retains accumulated heat in the room for a long time.
4. The variety of lining allows you to choose the material according to your taste and individual preferences.
5. Installation and installation are simple and uncomplicated, so they are accessible to all novice builders.

Which breed and variety should I choose?

Some types of wood, such as pine, usually contain resinous substances, which at high temperatures are released to the surface, melt and smell strongly.

Wood in a steam room can quickly become unusable, so finishing with these types of wood is only possible in the dressing room.

Fiberboard and chipboard cannot be used, as these materials swell when wet, lose their shape and quickly become unusable.

Decorating a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands allows the use of linden, larch, and cedar, since they are not only aesthetically pleasing and look great, but also have medicinal properties. Oak, ash and birch have good qualities.

Linden is resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, has a pleasant smell and is able to “breathe”, which makes it durable. The same can be said about the other listed types of wood.

Table - comparison of different breeds:

A high-quality cedar board does not heat up as quickly as other wood and excites with its wonderful smell, but the risk of purchasing a counterfeit of natural cedar is too great. In addition, in terms of price, cedar is significantly ahead of larch and linden. Therefore, when choosing, you should definitely take these nuances into account.

A little about vapor barrier

To ensure that heat and steam do not escape from the room, the interior of the bathhouse with clapboard must provide thermal insulation. There are several effective ways achieve the desired effect.

• Aluminum foil and glassine are slowly attached to the wall with a mounting stapler. The space between the slats or sheathing bars is filled with insulation. The structure must be closed with a vapor barrier. It is extremely important to prevent water from getting under the insulating material, so one sheet is overlapped over the other, covering the previous piece. 5-7 cm of such overlap is enough.
• On a bare wall, on which the sheathing has not yet been installed, insulating material is laid, which is covered with foil. Sheathing slats are attached to all this.

Most suitable insulation walls is basalt wool. It is sold in the form of slabs that are easily inserted between the bars or battens of the sheathing.

The walls must be completely covered with cotton wool, leaving no gaps. Through open spaces heat will easily escape from the room. Since working with insulation can cause eye irritation, it is advisable to work with your face covered with a bandage or respirator. This way, harmful particles will not get on the mucous membranes and cause a painful reaction.

Vapor barrier does not allow the insulation to absorb moisture and increase thermal conductivity.

Tools

A minimal but necessary set of tools will allow you to carry out installation without running around your neighbors looking for the necessary parts and without being distracted from the process. This:

• Hammer. A drill can perfectly replace it, especially if the walls are made of durable materials such as brick, stone, etc.
• Stapler for attaching the insulating layer, staples.
• A file for removing extra centimeters of the board. A jigsaw will also work.
• Construction square.
• Level and several meters of fishing line.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• Self-tapping screws of the appropriate size.
• Nails.

Installation of sheathing

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboards will not do without installing lathing if there are unevenness on the walls. If possible, it is necessary to align the recesses and protrusions, otherwise the sheathing will not be able to be secured.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the preparation of slats or wooden blocks that will be held on the wall with screws or nails (if the wall is wooden). They are placed at a distance of approximately 70 cm from each other in a horizontal position.

First, the slats are attached from the edges, and then closer to the middle of the wall. For this work, a level and plumb line are used. It is better to select self-tapping screws from anti-corrosion types that are resistant to high temperature and water. After the installation is completed, the lining will be attached to the sheathing.

Sequence of work

Before moving on to the most important stage of work, the material must be left for a period of at least one day in the room where the lining will be installed. This must be done so that the slabs absorb moisture from the air and no longer change their size.

After this you need:

• Determine the height of the walls and cut off excess pieces.
• Covering the walls with clapboard should start from the corner; it is there that the first lath is attached using clamps or nails. But the operation can also begin from heating device. Clamps are special staples that go completely into the wood, do not leave visible holes and do not rust over time. They are absolutely safe. Sloppy hammered nail can injure people, and the kleimer leaves behind a completely smooth surface.
• It should be mounted vertically to the wall, since the indentations between the linings created when the wood dries out can retain water, and if the panels are positioned vertically, the moisture will flow onto the floor.
• It is attached sequentially, one panel at a time, and the bathhouse is sheathed with material around the perimeter.
• The last panel usually won't fit into the remaining space, so it will have to be cut to size.

The lining will last much longer if it is pre-treated with drying oil or high-quality varnish. In this case, contact of wood with water is excluded, and wood still retains all its beneficial properties.

So, the best views Linden, larch, oak, birch, and ash are used to decorate the interior. They have very reasonable prices: from 500-600 to 1500 rub. per sq.m. All that remains is to purchase everything, prepare the necessary tools and - it’s time to take on a simple, but very necessary job!

A trimmed room will pleasantly please not only the owner, but also all household members, because after work you will want to immediately flood the new bathhouse, which smells of fresh wood.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard - instructions from the master with photos and videos

Decorating a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands allows the use of linden, larch, cedar, since these materials are not only aesthetically pleasing and look great, but also...

Lining (shalevka) - inexpensive and environmentally friendly pure material, ideal for finishing a bath room. Wood finishing allows the walls to “breathe”, improves air circulation in the steam room and dressing room and prevents condensation from condensing on the surface.

To sheathe the inside of a bathhouse with it, it is not at all necessary to invite specialists. Working with wood is not difficult; all you need to do is familiarize yourself with some of the subtleties of its installation.

Material selection

For cladding residential premises, dense and fairly durable softwood lining. Due to the high content of natural resins, which are aniseptics, it is little susceptible to rotting and can last quite a long time. However, it is not suitable for a wet steam room. When heated in the presence of a large amount of moisture, such material will have a pungent, resinous odor. In addition, a carriage made of pine needles gets quite hot, and if you touch the walls made of such material, you can even get burned.

The best option for finishing a bathhouse would be lining made of linden or aspen. Experienced bath attendants recommend choosing the first option. Honey linden shalevka It has a pleasant, but not too pungent odor, almost does not heat up when exposed to high temperatures and is almost not subject to rotting. It is very high quality and durable oak tree, however, its price, unfortunately, is very high.

Aspen siding will cost less. This material has fairly high density and heat-insulating properties, is not afraid of moisture and has a pleasant smell. Aspen is slightly lighter than linden, so a room covered with this material will visually look more spacious and brighter.

Linden and aspen lining

So-called eurolining already treated with anti-rotting agents. It is most often slightly wider than usual and has a “ tongue-and-groove». Compensation slots on its reverse side are designed to protect it from cracking and ventilation.

Eurolining with tongue-and-groove system and slots for ventilation

Calculation of material quantity

So that the board does not have to be cut, it is better to take the lining according to the ceiling height, for example, 2.5 m. In this case to calculate the required quantity It will be enough to measure the length of the wall and then divide it by the width of the board. Information about the lining should be clarified with the seller. Its maximum width 15 cm excluding grooves.

Types of lining

If a different board height is chosen, the calculations will be a little more complicated. First you need to calculate the area of ​​the walls and ceiling of the steam room. For example, with a wall length of 4 m and a ceiling height of 2.5 m, it will be equal to:

4 × 2.5 = 10 m2.

Find the area of ​​the second wall and ceiling:

3 × 2.5 = 7.5 m2.
4 × 3 = 12 m2.

Since there will be two such walls, we multiply their areas by two:

(10 + 7.5) × 2 = 35 m2.

It remains to calculate the total area of ​​the cladding by adding the area of ​​the ceiling to the area of ​​the walls:

35 + 12 = 47 m2.

The area of ​​one board with a width of 15 cm (0.15 m) and a length of 3 m will be equal to:

3 × 0.15 = 0.45 m.

Now let’s determine how much lining will be needed for cladding:

140 / 0.45 = 311.111 m2.

The material should be taken with a 5% margin for trimming and scrap. For indoor finishing, it is better to use a board with a thickness of 1.6 mm (thicker ones are used mainly for outdoor work).

Preparatory work

1. To ensure that the boards fit snugly against each other, the shalevka should be dried. But even a perfectly dried board should last at least 24 hours indoors so that the material can adapt.

2. Before sheathing, to protect it from rotting, the wood must be coat with antiseptic. If there are small areas damaged by fungus on the surface, they should be thoroughly cleaned, treated with wood bleach, and only then covered with a protective compound.

Treatment of lining with a protective compound

3. After the antiseptic has dried, all roughness should be removed from the tree. Large irregularities can be clear out steel brush. Small burrs are smoothed out with abrasive paper. Smooth boards (except for blockhouse boards, which imitate rounded logs) can be processed with a grinder with special nozzle already after covering the walls.

Processing the lining with sandpaper

The main stages of clapboard cladding

1. Before covering concrete or brick walls, a wooden or metal sheet is first attached to them. lathing with an indentation of 0.5 m. When the lining is positioned horizontally, it is attached vertically; when installed vertically, it is mounted across the walls. It is allowed to attach the shalevka to wooden walls without lathing, but in this case there will not be a sufficient flow of ventilation, which can lead to its rapid rotting.

Wooden and metal sheathing

2. Fastening the lining with tongue and groove system made with staples or clamps. Of course, you can use simple nails or dowels, but in this case the decorative effect of the coating is reduced. In addition, nails that are too thick can split the wood.

3. The bracket is applied to the tongue of the lining, and then secured to the wall using two self-tapping screws(see photo). When you subsequently apply a new board, the clamp will disappear under its groove. To adjust, the board is lightly tapped (finished off) with a rubber hammer.

Attaching the bracket

Advice. In order not to damage the board, when finishing it off, you can use cuttings of the lining and tap the sheathing through it with a regular hammer.

4. To prevent the most recent fastening from being visible, use dowel(small wooden corner).

Dowels for lining

5. If the sheathing is carried out horizontally, the brackets are screwed a couple of millimeters from the floor so that the self-tapping screw can be easily tightened with a screwdriver. In this case, one board is inserted with a groove into the hook, and the second - with a groove into the ridge and is attached to the clasp.
6. If the board is positioned vertically, to install the first fastener, you should step back from the wall at a distance equal to the width of the panel.

Important! Clasps and staples may have different heights, therefore, before choosing them, you should consult with the seller of the lining or measure the height of the groove yourself.

Staples for lining

7. Fastening the lining begins from the corner. Each board is leveled using a level. You should attach the first board especially carefully, since the rest of the planks will be aligned with it. If necessary, it can be trimmed from the side plane. Between the adjacent wall and the plank in the corners there is left a small, a few millimeters, ventilation gap.

Alignment by level

How to nail lining?

When using boards without grooves and tenons, the lining can be nailed to the sheathing with ordinary nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. In this case, nails are used finishing(with a small hat).

Advice. Metal dark spots The damage caused by hammer blows does not look very neat, so it should be wiped before the last couple of blows.

To avoid damaging the wood, it is better to use a punch or countersink. For installation, you can also use durekt nails with an almost invisible head and a small recess in it for a hammer. The holes formed after such fastening are puttied.

Countersinks and wood drills

After the bathhouse is completely lined, you can begin.

Modern builders are building baths from the most different materials: bricks, blocks, panels, timber. Traditional natural materials are usually used for interior decoration. The atmosphere in bathhouses is favorable due to their natural qualities.

Kinds

Before starting finishing work, it is important to decide what types of products to cover certain rooms of the bathhouse. The generalized characteristics of all types of lining are as follows:

• Breathable structure. Thanks to this property, fungus and mold rarely form on the lining, and proper ventilation is ensured.
• Ecological cleanliness. This material is completely safe for humans.
• Tongue-and-groove fastenings. At the dawn of the development of lining production, the fastenings were “tongue and groove”. Today, these options are not used, as they quickly fail.

To cover the inside of the bathhouse, you can use lining made from various types of wood. Uniform conditions for the material - it must be resistant to humidity, frequent and sudden temperature changes. When choosing a material, you must rely on the basic criteria of the wood species.

Tree species for lining can be as follows:

• conifers;
• deciduous.

When choosing a material, you need to understand for which bathhouse rooms it can be used. The most popular types of bath lining are made from:

• cedar;
• alders;
• oak;
• ash;
• linden;
• pine trees.

Linden lining is considered the most suitable for cladding the walls of a steam room. The structure of the material is porous, low density, wood does not heat up from high temperatures. Linden has medicinal properties, releasing essential particles when heated. They are useful for the prevention of many diseases.

Linden wood is characterized by soft shades that do not change color throughout its entire service life. The only drawback of linden is its porosity - the material absorbs moisture. The room must be well ventilated.

Aspen lining has a more dense structure compared to linden. Despite its hardness, the material is easy to process. The surface of the material does not allow steam to penetrate and does not absorb moisture. Under the influence of temperature differences, it only becomes stronger.

Wells were previously built from aspen. The water in them remained clean for many years. Many craftsmen advise choosing aspen lining for a bathhouse.

It is believed that aspen wood can relieve headaches, it also improves immunity, and also has antiseptic qualities.

Alder lining has good thermal conductivity and excellent water resistance. The material is not subject to deformation at almost any temperature. Color alder lining– pleasant golden-orange.

The characteristics of the material make it possible to cladding both dry and wet bath rooms. No additional processing is required for alder lining. Alder acts as a general strengthening agent on the human body.

Cedar lining is considered ideal suitable option for covering the bath space. The products are quite expensive, so they are rarely used for lining baths. Cedar wood is durable and resistant to moisture. Another positive quality- the respectability of her appearance.

Of the medicinal qualities of cedar, bactericidal properties are known, as well as the ability to make cleaner air. The material does not change its original parameters for a long time. The pleasant aroma of cedar needles remains in the bathhouse rooms.

Another option for the base for lining is larch. Its installation is difficult, since the board is fragile and splits during processing. Larch is resistant to moisture. After some time, the finish acquires the required strength, but still requires additional processing. Otherwise, the material will lose its natural shade.

Larch is a conifer, but it does not emit resin, so it is suitable for finishing steam rooms. It can be used for walls, ceilings, and floors. The material is universal, it can be used both inside and outside the bath. Medicinal qualities the material is the same as other conifers.

Pine lining is often used to decorate the inside of bathhouses. The price of the material is affordable, but it cannot be used in all rooms. For example, in a steam room, resin will be released from it, which will cause burns on the skin if it comes into contact with it.

However, in the bath rooms with normal temperature pine lining will create a special microclimate. In rooms with normal humidity, upholstered with clapboard, the aromas of the forest will be present. The appearance of the material will last a long time. Deformation processes may occur due to some hygroscopicity of the material.

Oak lining is famous for its strength and high density of wood. Oak is a beautiful and rich material. Oak finishing saturates the premises with ethereal aromas that suppress pathogenic microorganisms. Oak has high resistance to moisture and temperature changes. Oak is suitable for any bath room. The lining made from it varies greatly in color.

Any type of lining is divided according to class. Varietal qualities are determined by some general criteria, depending on which specialists choose finishing methods.

Finishing methods

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is possible in two main ways:

• vertical;
• horizontally.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at these qualities. For example, the vertical method of installing panels in a steam room has become widespread. The convenience of this method is that it is faster to install the board. The final cost of installation is lower compared to the horizontal arrangement of boards.

When the boards are positioned vertically, the fastenings receive greater security. Condensation will easily drain down. By the way, this same condensate will easily rise up along with the steam. This is good for a steam room, because more quantities heat accumulates in the steam room. When the beam is fastened horizontally, the same free movement is not observed. Vertical cladding is also justified for dry steam baths.

Lining installed vertically shows a lower percentage of drying out and subsequent expansion when wet, which is convenient for washing. In addition, this arrangement will visually increase the area of ​​a small room.

The advantages of installing the lining horizontally are:

• easy replacement of material if necessary;
• horizontally installed boards dry faster, which means they will last longer;
• horizontal installation ensures better internal air circulation;
• horizontally installed boards are less likely to harbor rodents;
• It is easier to implement horizontal finishing.

Negative sides horizontal arrangement linings:

• Different conditions for the cladding elements, which will affect the overall condition of the appearance. Particularly unfavorable conditions arise for the bottom row adjacent to the floor.
• Labor intensive work, increased material consumption.
• Lathing frame for horizontal installation is mounted on lining bars, which reduce the size of the premises.
• Worsening conditions for natural ventilation premises.

Negative aspects of the vertical lining arrangement:

• uneven heating;
• unpredictable deformation;
• the occurrence of decay processes.

Installation work: step-by-step instructions

Before covering the bathhouse, you need to make the frame correctly. It must be treated with special solutions to prevent rotting. The bars can be coated with antiseptic impregnations. You need to nail clapboard boards on top of the frame. You can fasten the lining with nails or clamps. This special mount, into which the screws are screwed. The boards need to be installed at some distance from the walls. The slats need to be nailed tightly to the ceiling.

If you line the inside of a bathhouse, observing simple rules, then you can avoid premature deformation of the boards, as well as their swelling. Walls near the firebox and chimney need to be treated with other materials. This is also important to consider to ensure fire safety. Let's look at the technology for installing lathing, insulation, vapor barrier and ventilation for a bathhouse in more detail.

Lathing

To decorate the bathhouse with clapboard, you will need lathing. The heat must be retained in the bathhouse, so you need to put insulation under the crate. For lathing, you need to use bars of greater thickness than the existing thermal insulation material. The direction of the sheathing must be perpendicular to the installed lining. It is important to maintain a step of 50-60 cm between the bars.

If unevenness occurs during the installation of the sheathing, pads must be placed under the beams. These parts are made from the same wood as the sheathing itself. To fasten the beams to the wall, use screws, plastic dowels or galvanized self-tapping screws.

The choice of fastenings depends on the wall material. For example, screws with plastic dowels are suitable for brick and stone, and galvanized self-tapping screws for wood.

Timber for sheathing requires careful preparation. The boards must be treated with impregnations. Professionals advise initially, even on the diagram, to think about the correct location of the beam. The correctness of vertical or horizontal fastening is checked by level and plumb.

Needed for lining high-quality ventilation. Usually there are two holes - one under the ceiling, the other at some distance from the floor. A special mesh is provided for the holes. It is needed so that debris does not get clogged inside - under the lining and sheathing.

Insulation

You can start insulating a sauna or bathhouse immediately after the walls are erected. In most cases, mineral wool is used as insulation. It is presented on the market in a variety of types and modifications. The material must be laid taking into account the absence of gaps between the individual parts of the building. Otherwise, cold bridges will form, and it will not be possible to properly insulate the bathhouse. Mineral wool – perfect option, since in winter it saves from freezing, and in summer it protects from overheating. Currently produced:

• glass wool;
• slag;
• stone wool.

These materials differ in density. Stone slabs are characterized by the most attractive properties, but the price of this material is the most significant.

The selected thermal insulation material is laid in the following sequence:

1. First, lay the mats in the gaps created between the sheathing bars. The insulation is located from bottom to top, pressing each upper layer to the bottom.
2. The work should be carried out carefully, ensuring the formation of gaps and cracks. If necessary, the mats are trimmed with a knife.
3. Use protective equipment when carrying out work. They should prevent cotton from getting on the body, hands and eyes.

Mineral wool - good insulation, but it absorbs moisture, and there is plenty of it in the bathhouse, so a vapor barrier is needed to protect the insulation.

Vapor barrier

Glassine material is used for vapor barrier. It is sold in strips, which are fastened in a strictly horizontal direction during installation. Work should start from the bottom up. The material is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of strips of approximately 10 cm. If the overlap is not provided, moisture will penetrate inside the sheathing, the insulation will deteriorate, and fungus and mold will appear on the walls.

Another option for vapor barrier is special protective foil. This vapor barrier can be glued with self-adhesive aluminum tape. Foil releases about 10 cm in size are made under the roof and on the floor.

Attaching the covering to the walls

Before installation begins, the lining must be left inside the bathhouse for at least a day. It is believed that in this way the material better adapts to the interior atmosphere of the room. Experts advise starting installation from the most inaccessible corner.

Experts advise placing the first board with a tenon to the inner edge of the wall corner. This board will serve as a guide for all subsequent planks. Therefore, it must be installed based on the level’s performance. Secure the aligned strip to the trim strip with screws. The screw heads should become invisible after installing the decorative corner. The clamps must be installed in the protruding edge of the groove. The screws are then nailed to the sheathing slats. Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove until the fixed element stops. The boards are also secured with clamps to the slats.

The last board of the row has to be trimmed, as it is often simply adjusted in width. The trimmed board is attached in the same way as the first one.

All other material prepared for the walls is attached in the same way. At the same time, special finishing nails are installed in corners, door jambs and windows. Hats of such nails with copper plated and small, so they are usually unnoticeable and do not spoil the overall appearance.

Headlining

Best option material for ceiling structure- wood. Wooden ceilings can be panel, floor, or hemmed. The latter option is most often used, in which the beams are sheathed with boards from below. A vapor barrier is laid over them, and insulation is laid on top.

The cladding of the bathhouse ceiling begins from the entrance to the room. To fasten the panels, experts recommend using small nails and clamps. The method with clamps is preferable, and this limitation is associated with a fairly serious load on the mass of the material. The last board is fastened with nails without a head, which are driven into special tool(doboynik).

The place where the nail without a head will be located is processed with sandpaper. There should be a small gap between the ends of the last panel on the ceiling and the wall of the bathhouse, and the wall covering should be tightly adjacent to the ceiling lining. This will ensure natural ventilation.