Methods of attaching a wooden beam to a metal pipe. How to attach a block of wood to metal. How to attach corrugated sheets to a wooden frame

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need for fastening wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, you need to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to carry out installation yourself; this article will be devoted to this issue.

What you should know about this type of work

Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances, which will ensure the highest reliability:

Properties of wood Do not forget that this material can expand due to changes in temperature and humidity, so be sure to leave a gap in order to compensate for linear changes in size. This will avoid a lot of troubles in the future and eliminate unpleasant surprises in the form of cracks in the final finish.
Adequate structural protection In order for structures to last as long as possible, be sure to treat them before installation with a special compound that will protect the material from mold and pests, and also significantly reduce the likelihood of fire. It is better to use hard-to-wash options that penetrate deeply into the structure
Use of quality materials It is not recommended to use wood with high humidity, since after installation the elements may move, which will disrupt the geometry of the structure. In addition, when dried in improper conditions, cracks may form on the surface, which reduces the reliability of structures.
Choosing the right mounting method May be suitable for different situations various options carrying out work, universal solution does not exist, so you should understand the pros and cons of one method or another. This will allow you to select the optimal fastener

Important!
Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases you can achieve an excellent result of the work.
You should not save on money and choose the most reliable ones.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one solution or another depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many ways, we will look at the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements need to be installed:

  • Fastening wooden beam To concrete wall carried out using dowels quick installation or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: into holes at a certain distance, the diameter of which should be equal to size fasteners, holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall should be twice the thickness of the block.

Important!
If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, then it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

Aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

  • Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package, it will indicate which drill and how deep the hole should be made and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and quick option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.

  • For more massive structures It is recommended to use metal fasteners, they have teeth, which when tightening the self-tapping screw required diameter diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.

  • If fastening is carried out wooden stairs to the aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement may be necessary using threaded rod , which goes all the way through and ensures the highest reliability.

Drywall

Let us immediately note that you cannot attach to this material heavy structures, but small elements can be fixed very securely using the following products:

  • The “driva” dowel is a unit with or without a drill at the end; the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
  • Dowel "butterfly" is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it expands from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but it is very convenient to carry out the work.

Conclusion

The video in this article will provide additional information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that compliance simple recommendations and the use of high-quality fasteners are the main components of reliable connections.

You need to fasten the corrugated sheet with self-tapping screws (to metal surfaces or wooden frame) and rivets (sheet to sheet).

To install a profiled sheet, in most cases a frame is made. The structure is made of metal profiled pipe (square, rectangle), wooden slats, plasterboard profile, regular corner. Sometimes they make wall cladding by mounting the sheets directly to the brick or stone.

How and with what in each specific case to fix the corrugated sheet?

Self-tapping screws (self-tapping) for metal with a metal washer and rubber seal

A self-tapping screw (commonly a self-tapping screw) is made in the form of a rod with a tip resembling a drill, a triangular thread and a head for a wrench or a screwdriver. In addition to screws with a drill tip, screws with a sharp tip are produced. To fasten the corrugated sheet, complete with a screw, use a press washer and a rubber sealing gasket.

We apply:

  • for attaching corrugated sheets to metal surfaces;
  • with steel thickness up to 12.5 mm;
  • without pre-drilling holes;
  • for installation, for cladding facades, gables, making gates, wickets, etc.

We do not use:

  • for fastening sheets to tool and high-carbon steels;
  • for binding metal profiled sheets together;
  • for attaching to wooden structures;
  • for fastening to metal less than 1 mm thick.

How do we determine quality?

When purchasing, we require a quality certificate that reflects the characteristics according to the DIN standard, including:


For fastening to a frame with a thickness of 2.32 mm, we use products for drill No. 1, with a diameter of 4.8 mm, pitch 2.12. For metal 5.5 mm drill No. 3, 8.5 mm - No. 4, 12.5 mm - No. 5. Thread pitch 1.8. Self-tapping screws of large diameters must be coated with zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns.

We select the length of the self-tapping screws depending on the purpose. To attach the profiled sheet to the lower wave, choose a size larger than the materials being joined by 3mm. When screwed into the upper wave, for example, to attach skates, the length increases by the height of the profile.

The industry produces 3 types of self-tapping screws according to the shape of the head:

  • hexagonal;
  • cruciform;
  • anti-vandal.

For normal installation, it is easier to work with a hexagonal head shape. We use anti-vandal screws for fences and cladding, the removal of which outside will provide free access to the premises or territory. Installation of products is done with a special tool.

Important nuances when attaching corrugated sheets with self-tapping screws:

  1. We tighten the screws with a washer and a rubber gasket strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet.
  2. According to the characteristics, the screws are suggested to be screwed in at 2500 rpm, but it is difficult to calculate the force by touch. Tighten the screws so as not to squeeze the rubber washer. A flattened seal will crack over time and will not create a tight seal.
  3. We don't use rubber seals where monolithic fastening is required.
  4. In places where unauthorized access to fasteners is possible, we use anti-vandal screws or use self-tapping screws with a notch that prevents arbitrary unscrewing.

How to attach profiled sheets to a wooden frame?

For roofs mounted on wooden sheathing, there is no alternative to traditional metal screws. Select screws with the largest thread pitch. The larger this parameter, the more reliable the mount.

Vertically located profiled sheets that do not require a hermetic fastening, in order to save money, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws with a monolithic press washer. In everyday life it is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a wide head. For screwing, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted into the screwdriver.

If the sheathing is made of DVL, chipboard, etc., we use screws with double-threaded threads. For the roof, we make a set of washers and cuffs ourselves, selecting the diameter of the screw.

  1. Use standard wood screws, including those intended for fastening plasterboard sheets. This fastener has a countersunk head and, when screwed in, will damage the surface of the corrugated sheet.
  2. Use screws with a drill tip. Wood does not require drilling, a sharp self-tapping screw is screwed in more securely, and the passage through corrugated sheets makes it acceptable for a large amount of work.

Is it possible to attach corrugated sheeting to shell rock (limestone, brick)?

We mount the sheets directly to the wall made of stone or brick using dowels and anchors. To install, pre-drill holes in the metal. We select fastener heads with a monolithic wide washer. The shape of a plastic insert with a shimmer that serves as a seal. We make the hole in the corrugated sheet 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the insert.

  1. For quick installation, use dowels with impact screws. They differ from traditional screws and screws in the shape of the thread. Disadvantage: if struck, the surface of the sheet can be damaged.
  2. Do not attach sheets to surfaces with protrusions or uneven surfaces.

How to connect sheets of profiled metal to each other?

The standard thickness of profiled iron is 0.4 mm. It is unreliable to connect two sheets using self-tapping screws, for example at an overlap, since the fastening is fragile and depends on the thread pitch.

To solve the problem we use rivets. The fastener consists of two parts, which are made of aluminum. Rivets are installed in pre-prepared holes and do not require access to back side. For installation we use a rivet device. In places where required hidden installation rivets, we use a hole punch (special pliers holders that pierce the corrugated sheet from the end of the wave).

Rivets can be used as fasteners for installing roofing, fence cladding, etc. The disadvantage is labor intensity. A through hole must be drilled for each rivet.

Other methods of installing corrugated sheets

Screw and bolt connection

The corrugated sheet is attached to metal surfaces with screws, for example, when used as casings on machines, for fastening to special steels. We drill holes in the sheet and the base on which installation is taking place, cut the threads and install.

A bolted connection is used in a similar way, but fastening requires drilling through holes both in the sheet and in the material to which the installation is taking place. Bolts are used to connect corrugated sheets to metal and wooden frames, preventing vandalism and unauthorized access.

Adhesive base

For interior cladding smooth walls Profiled sheets can be installed with glue. As a binding element, use metal putty mixed with PVA glue. The sheets are pressed to the base and kept until plasticized. adhesive composition. In this embodiment, the corrugated sheet does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves for decorative purposes.
We have you and a set of screws for it.

Installation of fences requires the use of high-quality fastening components that can provide the fence with the proper strength and durability. One of the most important structural elements In addition to fence posts, you can confidently call logs, or veins. Veins are horizontal jumpers on which spans of fences made of corrugated sheets, metal picket fences or wooden fences are installed. Logs (veins) are attached to the supporting fence posts mainly by welding. However, today this is not the most The best decision. Welded joints often do not look aesthetically pleasing, but the main thing is that over time they rust and require constant maintenance. The joints that have been welded must be constantly repainted, since during the fastening process damage to the protective layer of metal, which protects the structure from corrosion, is inevitable. It is also worth noting that welding cannot be used everywhere; in particular, this requires access to electrical networks, which are not always available in the places where the fence is being built. Using a generator incurs additional costs.

In this regard, today fastening connections are becoming increasingly popular: fasteners for poles and joists, as well as x-brackets. They are not much inferior in strength characteristics welding, and at the same time have a number of undeniable advantages. Fastening connections greatly increase the speed of installation; in addition, already attached joists can be easily removed and installed back or in a new location. When installing fence spans using fasteners, damage to their protective layer painted with primer enamels, galvanized or powder coating is excluded.

Holder for fence joists Fasteners for posts and joists are made according to a different principle: bent ones are used metal elements from sheet metal, which are connected to each other by industrial welding, after which they are coated with zinc-containing primer and powder paint. Metal fasteners for poles are available different models and standard sizes.

X-brackets are produced by stamping from an all-metal sheet and subsequent processing of the products by hot-dip galvanizing. The result is a cross-shaped structure with curved edges with holes for attaching the x-bracket to the fence post and attaching the joists.

Installation of fastenings for fence posts and joists

The process of installing a fence made of corrugated board, metal picket fence or wooden fencing using fasteners is quite simple. On support pillars The fence is marked at the places where the fasteners are attached. The fastener is applied to the table, a log is inserted into it, the horizontalness of which is checked building level. Then, the mount is screwed to the post using bolts or roofing screws. The X-bracket is attached using the same principle.

Installation of logs using holders

The fasteners are easy to use. Their use can significantly speed up installation processes and significantly improve the aesthetics, reliability and quality of fence construction. Our company provides turnkey fence installation services and performs individual species works: drilling holes for fence posts, installing metal posts made of round and profile pipe, installation of logs using the welded method or using fasteners, installation of corrugated sheets and other construction work.

How to attach veins to round fence posts? [QUESTION]

Having installed metal pipes as fence posts, the question arose of attaching “ears” to attach the veins to the posts. But I didn’t find any information on the Internet about what size it is recommended to make these “ears”; I don’t have enough experience to determine this. The veins are planned to be wooden, 100x50 mm, span length 2.5 m; pillars d=76 mm What height, thickness and length is better to make “ears” so that it is convenient to mount the veins and the fastening is reliable? And what is the best way to attach the veins to the ears - with bolts, nails or some other way?

Answer: Let’s talk about veins right away; they are absolutely useless at such sizes. Especially with such a small span. 60x40 mm, as they say, “for the eyes.”

As for the “ears”, they are generally not needed. Drill your pipe through and fasten the veins with ordinary bolts with an M 10 thread 120 mm long as shown in the figure. To prevent them from unwinding, use Grover washers. You can cut the ends of the bolts a couple of millimeters so that they protrude beyond the nut and rivet them.

Place the bolt heads into the vein.

Unfortunately, you did not specify the material of the fence.

The construction of a fence around the perimeter of the site requires strict adherence building regulations at all stages of work. The slightest deviation from established standards can cause deformation of the fence. Before you start building a fence, for example, from corrugated board, you should know exactly how to install the posts, how to fasten the corrugated sheet, what fixing products to use (screws, bracket, clamp, rivets).

This is what self-tapping screws with rubber washers look like for screwing corrugated sheeting to the fence frame

Fastening fence logs from light building materials, for example, corrugated sheets, picket fences or wooden boards, must be carried out only with the use of high-quality components. In former times, fence logs made of corrugated sheets were attached to the support screw piles welding method. Such work could only be done by professionals and required the presence of electricity and welding equipment. Fences made by welding did not always look like an example of aesthetics and required constant anti-corrosion treatments at the attachment points.

Modern fences for personal plots are mainly modular fences made without welding, which are easy to assemble, original and durable. They are kits consisting of supports, sections and fasteners.

Mounting option cross beams to the fence posts

Fasteners for such fences also comply modern trends. In most cases, metal frames are held together using devices such as a clamp or bracket.

IN last years The well-proven x-fastener for fences is very popular, providing a quick, aesthetic and high-quality connection. Any fastener for corrugated sheets or other sectional fabric is a product specifically designed for construction work. Fastening the corrugated sheet logs using modern methods Even beginners can fix it.

Fasteners for corrugated sheeting on the fence are made of high-quality steel coated with anti-corrosion powder or zinc. Various fasteners and additional components are provided for logs, posts and fence panels, for example, rivets, a clamp or a suitable bracket.

Example of clamps various types for attaching corrugated sheets to poles

You can buy these accessories at any specialized market, in online stores or in construction goods supermarkets.

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Fence fasteners for corrugated sheets are presented in two main types:

  • Bracket or x-bracket;
  • Fasteners for joists and posts.

The clamp, bracket or rivets are designed to different types fixation. Their the right combination will help to firmly connect the pillars and horizontal veins (joists). Anyone can buy these parts, and their ease of use does not require any experience or application special devices and devices.

Drawing possible options attaching joists to poles

Thanks to products such as fasteners for corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, picket fences or wood, the construction of fences of any complexity is greatly facilitated.

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Fasteners for corrugated sheets, for example, a bracket, are made by stamping from a hot sheet of metal. The fastening clamp, with which the pillars are connected to the joists, is made from bent metal parts welded to each other.

The finished bracket is subjected to hot-dip galvanizing, and the welded fasteners are painted with protective powder paints.

These accessories provide the fence with aesthetics, good wear resistance and strong fixation for the entire service life. Attaching corrugated sheets to the fence using fasteners is becoming an increasingly popular way of connecting structures.

Scheme of correct fastening of a corrugated sheet to the frame

The advantages of using this fixation method include the following:

  • Convenience and ease of connection;
  • Availability;
  • Fast pace of installation;
  • All joining points look beautiful and neat;
  • There is no need for electricity and welding machines;
  • The integrity of the top layer of mounted structures is maintained.

Special fasteners for corrugated sheets, such as a clamp, help connect posts, crossbars and fence sections firmly and efficiently. At the same time, the elements of the fence are not subjected to rough impact and mechanical damage.

This connection gives the fence external beauty, integrity and provides it long term services. If you need to rearrange the pillars, change the fastening of the joists, or dismantle the fence, then this can be done without damaging the prefabricated components.

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Most often around country houses and land plots fences are being built from corrugated sheets.
This material is versatile, strong, affordable and durable. The corrugated sheet is used as a fence covering throughout. Even a novice builder can easily learn to work with it. A wide range of colors and an assortment of canvases made from profiled sheets adds to its popularity. You can buy a quality product in many stores across the country at a relatively low price.

The material consists of a sheet of steel that has been galvanized and treated with anti-corrosion treatment. On top protective layers primer is applied. The last coating of the product - a fence made of corrugated sheets - is covered with paint with polymer components. To prevent the canvas from being damaged during the construction of the fence, only special fasteners, such as a clamp or brackets, must be used to secure it.

The neighbor was planning to put up a boundary fence made of corrugated sheet metal. I forcibly talked him out of the wooden one. However, he had already purchased the base material for the fence: metal poles and metal logs from the profile. Now he wants to drill holes in these joists and screw the boards to them with galvanized screws.
He doesn’t understand the reasoning - that it’s easier, cheaper and more reliable to buy 20 rubles each and instead of these lags weld blank plates for bolting wooden beams to the posts, to which it will then be easy and simple to nail the boards.
You can understand him - where to put these recklessly purchased logs now? But there is a suspicion that not only will drilling pieces of iron take longer and hemorrhoids, but these self-tapping screws will rust in a few years and the boards will fly off...

Or am I wrong and this is how they do it - boards on pieces of iron?

If you really want to dissuade your neighbor, try to think through the situation thoroughly in advance. What will you say to your neighbor, what can he tell you in response, etc. What you told us here will be crushed to smithereens in the first minute of the conversation. Here is a possible justification for the neighbor's position.

A fence with metal logs between the posts is more reliable than a fence with wooden logs, since the metal logs themselves and their attachment to the posts are definitely more reliable (stronger).

Fence frame when in use metal joists it will certainly be more durable, and during future repairs it will be for a long time will only involve replacing the sheathing boards, whereas otherwise replacement may also be required wooden logs.

The screws that secure the boards and the nails that secure the boards will also rust. This is an argument over the counter.

But it is a fact that in this case, boards secured with self-tapping screws will loosen later than boards nailed. The nails are smooth and will be held in place by the wood, while the self-tapping screw has a thread that will eventually go into the metal. In addition, the screws can be tightened (tightened) if necessary, but what about the nails?

I'll cautiously suggest that you haven't tried screwing screws into the profile? Rumors about the difficulty of attaching anything to the profile resp. self-tapping screws - greatly exaggerated. And if in your life you have had to work with a screwdriver more often than with a hammer (and now this is very common), then by screwing self-tapping screws into the profile with a good screwdriver, you will most likely outrun yourself holding the hammer in your hands.

Nowadays, perhaps everyone has a screwdriver available, and the only tool for driving nails at hand is almost certainly a hammer. It is physically easier to work with a screwdriver than to hammer nails.

In order to efficiently hammer boards onto the fence with a hammer, you still need to adapt: ​​so that your efforts to nail the next board do not lead to the loosening of the previous ones. With a screwdriver and metal joists, this problem simply does not exist.

Let's look at prices. For the logs, the neighbor most likely bought a 20x40 profile, costing about 70 rubles per meter? That is, an ordinary log 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.

Despite the fact that when using a metal profile of any length, at any distance between the posts, there will be no scraps, since it can be welded together. When using wooden logs, we either end up with scraps or additional ones. plates/corners for joining joists outside the pillars (two plates - 40 RUR). Or you will have to make the width between the pillars a multiple standard length lumber 3 meters, which may not in the best possible way will affect the strength of relatively heavy wooden fence, especially assembled on wooden logs.

But let's return to the prices for logs. Unless, of course, you don’t get the wooden logs for free. For the logs of a wooden fence, a 50x100 board is good. It costs approximately 5,000 rubles per cubic meter of natural moisture and about 8,000 rubles per cubic meter of dry moisture. That is, the cheapest board (whether it soon turns into a “saber”, “propeller” or simply cracks - we’ll leave it behind the scenes) will cost about 25 rubles per meter. Laga best quality, will cost 40 rubles per meter.

To summarize, a metal joist in a run between two pillars 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
A wooden log 2.5 meters long and of worse quality will cost 62.5+20=82.5 rubles. And the quality is better, already 100+20=120 rubles. 20 rubles - the cost of the plate that is needed to attach the log to the pole.

If the width of the common fence between the plots is 30 meters and two logs (if the length of the fence or the number of logs is different, the following calculations will need to be clarified), we get the cost of equipping the fence with metal logs 70x2x30 = 4200 rubles. The cost of equipping the same length of fence with wooden logs is worse than 1500 for logs and about 500 rubles for plates: 1500+500=2000 rubles. If we take better lags, then 2400+500=3100 rubles. And we left behind the scenes the situation with the possible appearance of scraps when using wooden logs.

That is, the savings in log material when using high-quality wooden logs instead of metal profile logs will amount to as much as 1,100 rubles at 30 meters!
Despite the fact that refusal to use metal joists puts the neighbor at a loss of 4,200 rubles.

P.S. And, please, no offense, but you probably shouldn’t be so biased towards your neighbor (I’m talking about “reasons”, etc.).
In any case, do not forget that you still have to live with him

Hello, I am interested in the issue of installing wooden lining on a metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other mounting methods (profile for GP)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello, Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of unusual situation, if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

It is clear that the wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal made of galvanized or aluminum) in the form of slats. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

A metal profile of the GP type (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet whose end resembles a trapezoidal contour with wide flanges and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or the GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has small width mushrooms and a large bottom width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used for fencing the facade surfaces of buildings, indoors, and sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for roofing.

If you would like to attach wooden lining To metal profile, it is clear that it is impossible to do this with nails, since, having pierced the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is capable of piercing galvanized steel standard thickness. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But, with rare exceptions, they don’t fasten the lining like this.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew the lining onto the GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably with metal screws, which have a finer knurling (pitch) of thread. Such screws will hold more firmly, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws are either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the screw, and not separately). Roofing screws should be used with caution, as they can turn the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this labor-intensive method, a method is more often used when a wooden plank or block is first mounted on a metal profile with several self-tapping screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this plank-block with nails. This will make your life easier, since you won’t have to fasten each panel with screws directly to the metal.

/If the lining will be exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much preferable to nails, which can be torn out when wet boards warp./

Two more points. Do not forget about the relative position of the lining and the metal profile. The lining must be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly hit the fasteners on the top of the profile waves, and not just anywhere. /If you first attach the wooden planks-bars, which were discussed above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction./

In addition, it is always very desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. This can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films for similar purposes.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out from the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing is that if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be covered.

And lastly, do not forget that you need to balance your efforts when tightening screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures to prevent deflections of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your question.



 
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