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Rafter system of a hipped roof. Rafter system of a hipped roof: overview of hip and hip structures. Preparation of structural elements

There are 2 types of hip roofs - hip and hip. The rafter system of a house is a complex structure that requires careful consideration of all components of the structure. To increase the rigidity of the frame, it is necessary to connect individual rafters in general design, and the frame must be securely attached to the building structure.

4-piece design- hip roof, it consists of 2 elements triangular shape and 2 trapezoids. Essentially this roof is made of 2 parts: gable roof, partially covering the length of the house, and the hips - 3 coal slopes. The cost-effectiveness of this type of roof lies in the absence of gables. Modifications of these roofs are Danish and half-hip roofs.

Unlike the design described above, hipped roofs have 3 coal slopes, connected at one point by their peaks. When installing them, it is necessary to arrange a special rafter structure. With a large slope angle of the roof slope, they are called spire-shaped.

Positive properties of a hip roof:

1. Properly designed and manufactured hip roofing due to the fact that there are no gables or gables in it, it has minimal resistance to air flows. As a result, it perfectly resists strong winds and is almost not subject to destruction in areas of eaves overhangs.
2. Due to the presence in the design of corner ribs connecting at the ridge, is not subject to deformation, as it has high structural rigidity:
3. This type of roof makes it possible to make large overhangs on all sides of the house, thus protecting all walls from precipitation.
4. Hip roof visually reduces the height of the building, this can help if the house needs to be combined with an already built one-story building, without changing the nature of the building and maintaining the balance of the ensemble.
5. This roof looks great from the outside.

Design elements

Comprises:

• slanted rafters installed to the corners of walls in an inclined position;
• short rafters(species);
• struts and racks;
• runs and more lying;
• trusses;
• crossbars;
• used as a support for slanted rafters;

Types of rafters and roofs

For a hipped roof, a rafter system is installed using hanging and layered technology, depending on the fastening method used. Hanging structure It is more difficult to create and more labor is required to repair it.

It’s easier to make a layered rafter structure. Typically, this design is used if the building has intermediate support pillars or a load-bearing wall in the middle.

The support makes it possible to increase the length of the span covered by layered rafters. Often, this system is used when constructing hip roofs with a slight slope.

Hip roof structures

The slope angle of the slopes of such a roof should not exceed 40 degrees; the design should use slanted rafters installed in the direction of the corners of the building.

Roof elements of this type are called diagonal. They are the ones who take the main load on the roof; for this reason, they are made from double boards or high-quality timber.

When making such purlins, the difficulty is their length. To increase it, use the method used in the manufacture of prefabricated rafters connected from 2 parts. The connection points are supported by a stand, which increases the reliability of the connection.

In addition, for hip roofs it is necessary to install additional rafters, shorter than the main ones. They are used on triangular slopes, installed instead of the gables of a conventional roof.

Hip roofs

Structurally, hip rafters pitched roofs a little different. The difference is that in this case hips are not used, since the roof slopes are the same in shape and area. The ridge is also not used here, for this reason the work may be more difficult than when building a hip roof.

It is not advisable to use hipped roofs of large buildings, because such a roof is less reliable.

Such designs are used subject to 2 conditions:

1. The house should be square in shape.
2. In the center of the building there is a support or load-bearing wall capable of supporting the stand.

Broken roofs

Broken roofactually has 4, not 2 slopes. Most often they are used to enlarge the attic space. This method is well suited for a home in the private sector, due to the fact that with the same building area, the living space increases almost 2 times.

Arranging broken roofs, often, a frame is created in advance, serving as a support for the purlins, supporting the legs of the rafters.

In general, the construction of such a roof can be divided into 3 stages:

1. First, U-shaped elements are installed, from beams and racks of attic floors.
2. After this, purlins are installed from high-quality timber. The rafter legs of pitched roofs of this type require the use of at least 3 such elements. Of these, 2 are placed at the corners of the U-shaped elements, and the ridge girder is installed on special racks located in the middle of the attic floor beams. This is how it is created robust design, capable of withstanding, in addition to the mass of the rafter legs, the weight of fallen snow and strong loads from gusts of wind.
3. The last stage is the installation of rafter legs, which must be placed according to a pre-prepared template.

Self-installation

Features of installing a hip roof

Taking into account that the basis of the design of the rafter system are slanted rafters, the roof assembly should be carried out taking into account the following points:

1. Sloping rafters assembled from reinforced (double) material.
2. Connect individual parts of the rafters It is better to support them in areas experiencing maximum loads with vertical posts or struts.
3. To prevent errors in calculating the size of the rafters, collect them with a small reserve.
4. It is better to strengthen the structure with additional metal elements or using twists of thick wire.

The size of diagonal rafters is usually larger than the size of standard boards and timber in order to obtain required length, the source material is spliced, and supports are installed under the joints.

Installation of the rafter system

First of all, the Mauerlat is attached to the walls of the building, and marking work is immediately carried out. Next, attach the ridge beam using a spirit level and a plumb line. Here it is necessary to maintain its position in planes and height as accurately as possible; this directly determines correct assembly truss structure.

The support posts are mounted on the jibs under the ridge beam. After this, the legs of the slanted rafters are installed. This is the beginning of creating the roof planes of the house. The size of the overhang is immediately marked.

After this, the side roof slopes are created and attached. Intermediate rafters are placed in the places designated for them and the brackets are attached, when installing which it is necessary to accurately mark, in addition to the parallelism of their installation, also that they are strictly in the same plane with the side slopes. After this, the roof sheathing is installed.

The roof of the house can serve long term, only if all possible loads were taken into account in the calculations.

It is necessary to add up the weight of snow, sheathing, wind exposure, the weight of roofing, waterproofing and insulation.

Types of load and its calculation

The accumulation of a large layer of snow is dangerous for the roof of a house; if the slope is small, then a whole snowdrift can accumulate on it. To compensate for the weight of the snow mass, a continuous sheathing is installed near the elements protruding above the roof and the waterproofing layer is reinforced.

Besides, snow bag with a normal slope, it will gradually begin to slide along the roof slope and gradually reach eaves overhang. At large size cornice, it may be damaged and even destroyed.

From exposure to wind

With wind loads, the problem is to securely fix the roof; if the fastening is not strong enough, the wind will simply tear it off. As the roof slope and height increase, the wind load increases, but there are differences in the lifting force and wind pressure.

The wind creates pressure on the roof when its slope is large, and when the slope of the slopes decreases, a powerful lifting force appears, capable of demolishing your roof in the event of powerful gusts of wind.

To counteract the effects of wind, it is necessary to firmly secure all roof elements. For example, with metal pins concreted into the walls, to which the rafter legs will be attached.

The weight of the finishing coating affects the roof no less than other factors. If a roof covering with a large mass is laid, then keep in mind that it constantly affects the structure. It must be remembered that with an increase in 1 m 2 of coverage, it is necessary to increase the angle of its slope.

During calculations, you need to remember about heat insulating material, which can have significant mass. If you plan to build and equip attic room, it is necessary to include in the calculations the weight of the material used for its interior decoration.

Roofs with four slopes have higher reliability and resistance to loads. This design is much more complex than a conventional gable one, and installation takes longer. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task if you prepare properly and study in detail the intricacies of its construction.

Roof design

The hip roof has many variations. The most simple design It consists of 2 trapezoidal slopes connecting in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes on the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the ribs of the roof converge at a central point. More complex designs suggest the presence of broken lines, a combination of short slopes with pediments, built-in straight and inclined windows, as well as multi-level slopes.

Without appropriate experience, it is impossible to build a rafter system of such a configuration, so it is better to pay attention to a standard hip roof.

Hip roof project

Hip roof design

The slope of the slopes can have an angle from 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:

• attic functionality;
• type of roofing;
• atmospheric loads in this region.

Gentle slopes are not suitable for arranging an attic, since they take up too much free space. Therefore, if an attic is planned in the house design, the roof slope should be 45 degrees or higher. You can select the angle of inclination depending on the type of roofing using the table.

Atmospheric loads are also of great importance. Where there is a lot of snow, you cannot make a slope of less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the angle of inclination is more than 60 degrees, snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. They are usually suspended from the rafters and place additional stress on them. After preliminary calculations You can start drawing up a drawing of the rafter system.

Materials for roof installation

Like a gable hip roof consists of a mauerlat, puffs, rafters, support posts, ridge beams and sheathing. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a hipped roof, it is recommended to use lumber from pine or larch, good quality, without defects, with a maximum humidity of 22%.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The rafters are made from boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take 50x200 mm boards. For Mauerlat you need solid timber with a cross section of at least 150x150 mm. Additionally, you will need threaded metal studs for fastening the Mauerlat, boards for sheathing and overhead metal plates, which are used to connect wooden elements.

Threaded metal studs for fastening the Mauerlat

Before assembling the roof, lumber must be impregnated with an antiseptic agent.

Rafter system installation technology

Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat

In houses made of timber, the functions of the Mauerlat are performed the last crown a log house in which special grooves are cut for the rafters. IN brick houses The Mauerlat is laid on the walls around the perimeter of the box, having previously secured metal studs with threads between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for fasteners, the timber is lifted and laid on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After this, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

Having removed the timber for drilling, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing felt. It is placed directly on the studs and pressed downwards. Next, lay the Mauerlat, aligning the holes with the studs, align them horizontally and screw the nuts tightly onto the threads. At the corners, the beams are connected with metal plates or brackets. After fastening, the beam should not move even a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on this.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

Step 2. Installation of racks

If the house does not have a central load-bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a cross section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, short bars 50 mm thick are inserted between the boards and nailed down. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m; the beams are not fastened at the ends. Having measured the middle of the attic, lay the support beam so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.

Now take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, and install them on the support beam using a plumb line. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are connected by a block. The racks are temporarily reinforced with beams made from beams. The top of the racks is connected by a ridge beam, for which a 50x200 mm board is used.

Step 3. Attaching the central rafters

They take a rafter board and attach it with one end to the ridge beam and the other to the mauerlat on the front side of the building. Immediately adjust the length of the eaves overhang and cut off the excess. Mark the lines of the cuts with a pencil, after which they cut off the upper end of the board and make a groove in the mauerlat 1/3 of the width of the rafter. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and secured with metal plates.

The rest of the rafters are made in the same way and installed in 60 cm increments from the facade of the house. The outer boards should be positioned perpendicular to the ridge beam and attached to its ends. WITH opposite side buildings do everything the same way. On the hips there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on its edge and attached with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and secured with nails.

Step 4. Attaching the corner rafters

Installation of a hip roof truss system

To make corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the point of connection of the mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied to it. At the point of connection between the ridge and the central rafter, a nail is also driven in from the hip side, a cord is pulled to it and secured. This is how the line of diagonal, or corner, rafters is designated. Their length must be the same, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge beam and mauerlat. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 50-70 cm.

Step 5. Installation of spigots

To secure the diagonal rafters, they use spigots - shortened rafters, the lower end of which rests on the mauerlat and located at right angles to the ridge beam. They are attached in increments of 60 cm, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As they approach the diagonal, the narozhniki make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with ties and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.

If the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, you need to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the rack should rest on the floor beam. In the case when the beam is located further than the designated place or is completely absent, instead of a vertical post, a sprengel is attached - a horizontal jumper made of timber, the ends of which are nailed to the sprocket.

Step 5. Installation of the sheathing

Sheathing pitch under corrugated sheeting

When all the supports are installed, you can fill the sheathing. For a hipped roof, the sheathing is done in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached to each slope separately. The joints are carefully taped, and then thin slats are stuffed over the membrane to provide an air gap. The boards are laid in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.

Installation of roof sheathing

At this point, the assembly of the rafter system is considered complete. All that remains is to insulate the structure, lay the roofing, mount wind bars and trim the overhangs. To make a hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install inclined or straight windows on the slopes.

DIY hipped roof - instructions and calculations!

Find out how to install a hipped roof with your own hands! Detailed guide to constructing a rafter system, photo + video.

Rafter system of a hipped roof

The roof of a private house, which has four rather than one or two slopes, looks like a much more serious structure, which is what it is. Assembling such a rafter structure is no more difficult than a gable roof, but the rafter system of a hipped roof has more advantages. The quality of the roof is ensured by the strength of the rafter system.

DIY hipped roof

Features of a four-slope roof

1. The main advantage is the absence of gables and gables. The unconventional design of the rafter system allows the roof to withstand strong winds without consequences, to minimize possible damage in places where the eaves overhang over time, and the absence of a pediment means savings on building materials and labor costs;
2. The ends of the rafters, which intersect with each other and are attached to the ridge beam, give rigidity to the structure and prevent the roof from deforming under the weight of precipitation, roofing building materials or equipment mounted on the roof;
3. The design and arrangement of the hip roof truss system suggests the possibility of installing eaves overhangs around the perimeter of the entire house, protecting the facade from atmospheric influences and temperature changes;
4. In terms of architectural compliance, a hipped roof when adding a veranda or attic to a house makes the building more resistant to unevenly distributed loads;
5. The aesthetics of a hipped roof have been proven by practice and time - such structures have been used since the times when people learned to build shelters for themselves, which later turned into durable and beautiful houses.

How the rafter system of a hipped roof will be constructed depends on whether the roof will be hip or hip. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer look at these types of hipped roofs, their features and structure.

Hip roof device

Hip roof

Roof by hip type is an assembly of two trapezoidal or triangular wooden units. These elements are fastened together by the planes of the upper surfaces, and the edges of the triangles are overlapped by ridge slopes.

A roofing pie consisting of several layers is mounted on the rafter frame of the hip roof: a waterproofing material, a heat insulator, a ventilation layer of building materials, and a finishing decorative and protective coating. According to the type of fastening, the rafter system of a hip roof is divided into hanging and layered types. The layered design of the hipped roof rafter system is more economical, easier to install and easier to design.
Rafter systems

Important: When the hip roof slopes ≤ 35°, it is necessary to install auxiliary support beams to strengthen the long span with layered rafters. Additional supports protect the house from atmospheric moisture, strong winds and temperature changes.

Scheme of a roof truss structure with four slopes

1. Rafters of a slanted design - a beam mounted diagonally, one end resting on the mauerlat, the second end is attached to the next rafter pair. Since in their expanded form the slanted rafters have a very big sizes, then they must be securely fixed on the roof immediately. Also, the slanted rafters act as a support for the riggers;
2. Trapezoidal wooden assemblies for roof slopes;
3. Narozhniki - designs small size from rafter beams of short length, fixed on rafters of the sloped type. If the width of the walls of the house is ≥ 4.5 m, then the rafter structure is connected into a block of several elements, so that these blocks can then be used to form a single roof;
4. Struts, crossbars and racks serve to minimize the size and use of spigots. The use of these elements allows you to assemble the roof with virtually no additional reinforcement;
5. The beds serve as supports for racks and struts; their lower end rests against brick supports on the inner wall end or is adjusted to size using wooden blocks;
6. The purlin is a beam laid parallel to the lower support beam. Serves to ensure the strength of the rafter structure;
7. Sprengels increase the rigidity of the rafter system in all directions. The trusses must have the same cross-section as the rafters, and they are attached along the length of the span.

Scheme of a hipped roof

Hip roof

The tent-type roof is assembled from triangular wooden structures. It will not be easy for a non-specialist to cope with the construction of such a roof, since it is important to absolutely accurately observe all dimensions and dimensions in order to achieve complete symmetry of the hip roof. But thanks to such a roof, your house will withstand winds of any strength, even a hurricane. A homemade hipped roof, the rafter system of which is designed in the form of a tent, perfectly protects housing from the penetration of cold and moisture even into the attic or attic space.

Roof in the form of a tent

In terms of design, the drawings of the hip and hip rafter systems are similar, since they consist of the same units and elements. The only difference is the length of the rafters and installation options. In a tent structure, hanging or layered rafters also work well, but it is very difficult for an amateur to secure the hanging elements on his own - the help of a professional will be required. A hip roof is often installed over areas without internal ceilings, partitions and walls, and rafter beams for supports are laid on load-bearing walls. Parts of a layered structure are cheaper and easier to manufacture, but in order to be able to work with them, it is necessary to have an internal load-bearing wall and/or concrete columns.

Non-thrust-layered scheme

How to work with rafters - tips and rules

1. Before starting work with any wood products, they must be treated with antiseptic and fire retardant agents;
2. Wood for any elements of the rafter system must be well dried under natural conditions. The moisture content of the material must be ≤ 22%;
3. Mauerlat is made from timber square section 150 mm or rectangular cross-section 150 x 100 mm.
4. The rafters must be ≥ 50 mm long and ≥ 150 mm wide;
5. For all products of the rafter system, one type of wood is used, and preferably coniferous species;
6. To produce a large number of crossbars, racks and purlins with one cut angle, a pre-prepared template is used.

Template for marking rafters

In the hip rafter system, a support is first made in the form of a Mauerlat. Not only the strength of the structure, but also the aesthetics of the entire roof depends on the even structure of the Mauerlat, so the support beams must be laid strictly horizontally. The alignment of the mauerlat can be facilitated by pouring a small grillage (formwork) around the entire perimeter of the walls of the house.

To attach the grillage to the walls, reinforcing pins driven or inserted into the wall are used. The Mauerlat is attached through the holes in these rods threaded connections to the walls and grillage.

How to attach the Mauerlat

How to assemble and install on site a hip roof rafter system:

1. The upper planes of the load-bearing walls of the house must be opened with waterproofing agents - mastic, bitumen, tar - before installing the rafters. Roofing felt is laid on top of the waterproofing layer;
2. The support beam from which the Mauerlat will be assembled is mounted on pins in the walls and tightened with nuts and washers. When installing the Mauerlat, you need to constantly check its horizontalness using a level;
3. The central support is attached next - the racks with the ridge will be attached to it. The support beam is laid either on the side beams of the mauerlat, or on the surface of the internal load-bearing walls;
4. Vertical beams are installed for the main support of the ridge. The ridge supports do not need to be rigidly fastened immediately - only after complete assembly rafter systems. Rigidity can be provided by steel angles, wooden spacers or metal studs;
5. To ensure that the hip roof is perfectly symmetrical, the rafters of triangular hip structures rest on the Mauerlat in the calculated locations. Markings for each rafter must be done in advance so that the beam does not fall on the mounting rod. Intermediate rafter beams are needed to connect the ridge to the walls;
6. Next, slanted rafter beams are installed, which will connect each corner of the house with the end of the ridge beam;

Important: a distance of ≥ 50 cm is maintained between the overhang and the wall. If the site is selected in a region with strong winds, then this distance increases by 2 times. This ensures protection of the roof and walls from precipitation, which can blow in and moisten the surfaces down to the foundation.

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

1. Now you can attach ordinary rafter beams to connect the Mauerlat to the ridge. The distance between the rafters is calculated based on the overall dimensions of the roof and the length of the intermediate rafters. Some roofing building materials need to be laid on frequently installed sheathing, so general recommendations There are no distances to keep. Ordinary rafters in the standard solution are fastened into a groove every 0.4-0.5 m; the fastening point can also be reinforced with nails or steel overhead plates;
2. If the roof has a small angle of inclination, then the rafters need to be reinforced with trusses due to the additional pressure of snow in winter;
3. To strengthen the upper end of the mowing rafter beams a truss truss is installed. It consists of 2 struts extending from one point.
4. The last step in the construction of the rafter system is lathing. The material for the sheathing frame is selected based on the roofing material. Most often these are square slats with a cross-section of 5 cm, and if the sheathing is solid, then you can use five-layer plywood for the board.

Hip roof rafter system, video, photo

The roof of a private house, which has four rather than one or two slopes, looks like a much more serious structure, which is what it is. Assembling such a rafter structure is no more difficult than a gable roof, but the rafter system of a hipped roof has more advantages.

A roof made of four slopes - what is it good for? The numerous operational advantages of this type certainly outweigh the disadvantages. Is the rafter system of a hipped roof as simple as many construction beginners think? You will definitely find out soon! We will describe important nuances and features of the stages of erecting a hip roof in this article.

What do you need to know about hip truss systems?

There are two options for hip roofs: hip and hip. The first type has the shape of a rectangular envelope, consisting of two main trapezoidal slopes and a ridge, and two pediment (side) slopes - triangles:

A hip roof is four identical isosceles triangles connected at one top point (reminiscent of a tent):

Both options provide for installation of both layered and hanging rafters, which are installed using standard technologies.

How to choose the type of rafter system for a 4-pitched roof?

In the absence of a central roof support, the choice is made in favor of a hanging rafter system. If you can find upper and lower supports for each rafter, then you should choose a layered structure. This option is simpler and more accessible for non-professional craftsmen. You just need to remember two main conditions: when rigidly fastening the bottom and top of the stops, a reinforced Mauerlat is needed, since the thrust is transferred to it; with a hinged fastening or a semi-rigid connection (for example, the top is hinged and the bottom is rigid or vice versa), the Mauerlat does not need to be reinforced:

The choice of one type of hip roof should be determined by the shape of the house itself. For square houses, hip rafters are erected, for rectangular ones - hip rafters. Also, you can find complex multi-pitched roofs of a combined type, which contain both hip and hip elements.

Both hip and hipped structures retain the basic functions of a gable roof (for example, the possibility of arranging an attic) and look very aesthetically pleasing:

Why is a hipped roof more popular than a gable roof?

“Why the extra headache and complexity?” you ask: “After all, you can build a simple gable roof much faster and cheaper.” Here the masters emphasize some important points in favor of choosing exactly four slopes for the roof:

1. High wind resistance. The hipped roof has no gables; all its planes are inclined towards the ridge. This structure minimizes the impact of strong winds and reduces possible destructive consequences to “0”.
2. The most successful load distribution. A multi-pitched roof can withstand the maximum amount of precipitation, since the gentle slopes take part of the main load. Therefore, sagging, deformation and destruction of the rafter system, in this case, have a minimal probability.
3. Availability of choice of any method of roof insulation. Straight gables require a special approach when choosing the type of roof insulation, since they are located vertically and are subject to wind blowing. The gentle slopes of the hip and tent systems allow you to evenly insulate the roof with any available material.

In addition to the listed “advantages”, a roof with four slopes perfectly conserves heat, can be covered with any roofing material and always has a neat appearance.

Construction of a four-slope rafter system

The four-slope rafter structure consists of the following elements: mauerlat, ridge beam, central and hip rafters, slanted legs, as well as beds, racks, crossbars, struts and other reinforcing parts. Let's look at the most basic elements.

I. Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the most important detail structure, since the entire rafter system rests on it. It represents a powerful wooden beam 100x200, 100x250, 100x100, 150x250, 200x200 cm. The mauerlat is made from solid quality wood, mainly coniferous species. Rafter system A hip roof, like any multi-pitched roof, requires thorough fastening of the base beam. The procedure for installing the Mauerlat in this case: formation monolithic foundation at the end of load-bearing walls with the installation of spiers; laying waterproofing; processing and installation of Mauerlat around the perimeter of the entire house; reinforced with anchors and other fastenings for maximum reliability of the base.

The Mauerlat can be laid on the edge of the wall, or in a pocket provided for laying bricks with inside load-bearing walls.

II. Sloping legs

Sloping legs are the four corner rafters that rest on the edges of the ridge and the corners of the mauerlat. They are the longest among all the rafter legs of the system, therefore they must have a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm for maximum rigidity.

III. Ridge beam

Ridge purlin is a horizontal beam that connects all the rafters, the top of the rafter system. The beam must be strengthened with racks and struts. The ridge must be positioned strictly parallel to the plane attic floor and perpendicular to the posts.

IV. Rafters

Rafters for a hipped roof are divided into: central (attached to the mauerlat and ridge); main hip ones (attached to the ridge axis and Mauerlat); intermediate and shortened (installed on sloping legs and Mauerlat, connecting the corners of the slopes).

V. Strengthening elements

Additional reinforcing elements include ridge beam posts, crossbars or floor beams, rafter struts, wind beams, etc.

DIY rafter system for a hipped roof

Let's consider step by step process construction of the truss structure. For clarity, we have chosen the most popular option - hip roofing. The hip roof rafter system, a diagram of which step by step, is presented to your attention below:

Step I: Create a Project

To depict your version of a hip roof in a drawing, you need to calculate the height, length, slopes of the slopes and roof area. This is necessary for clear and high-quality implementation of the project and selection required quantity Supplies:

Calculations should begin by choosing the angle of the roof slopes. Optimal slope The angle is considered to be 20-450. The magnitude of the slope must correspond to the climatic characteristics of the region. So, in particularly windy areas, the slope should be kept to a minimum, and for areas where precipitation is frequent and abundant, the steepest slope angle is necessary. In addition to the weather environment, you also need to consider the roofing material you plan to use. For a soft roof the degree of inclination should be less, for a hard roof it should be greater.

And one more small but important nuance on this issue - it is better to make the slope angle the same for all four slopes. So the load will be distributed evenly, and the structure will be as stable as possible, and the aesthetic appeal will remain “at its best.”

Now, knowing the angle of inclination and the width of the house, we can use simple mathematics to calculate the height of the ridge, the length of the rafter legs, racks and other details of the rafter system. When calculating the length of the rafters, do not forget to take into account the eaves overhang (as a rule, its length is 40-50 cm).

The roof area for purchasing the required amount of roofing material is calculated as the sum of the areas of all slopes of the structure.

How to draw a roof drawing correctly?

• We select the scale of the drawing and transfer the dimensions of the house in scale onto a sheet of paper;
• Next, we transfer the selected dimensions of our roof onto the diagram: the height of the ridge, its length, the number and size of rafter legs, struts, racks and all the details, in accordance with the calculations made earlier;
• Now you can count all the necessary materials and start searching for them.

Step II: Preparing for work

For construction roof frame you will need standard tools and equipment: drills, screwdrivers, jigsaws, hammers, chisels, etc. We already know the required amount of materials for the rafter system, so we can purchase them. The lumber for the frame must be solid, free from cracks, wormholes, and light shade, without gray or yellow patina, smell like fresh wood. Wet wood should not be laid on the roof immediately; it must be dried, treated with an antiseptic solution and dried again. Wood humidity should not exceed 20%.

Step III: Mounting the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the basic part of the entire rafter system. It transfers thrust loads to the load-bearing walls of the house. Installing a Mauerlat for a hipped roof is no different from similar structures with two or one slope. This process is described in as much detail as possible in our previous articles.

The base beam, the parameters of which are described above, is placed on an armored belt and high-quality waterproofing. If it is necessary to connect the Mauerlat, then the bars are cut into half the section and overlapped using strong fasteners.

Step IV: Laying the floor beams or beams

If there are load-bearing walls inside the house, then it is necessary to install beams on their ends - the basis for support posts roofing system. If load-bearing floors is no longer in the house, then the attic floor is covered with reinforced beams, on which roof supports are subsequently installed, and then the attic floor pie is laid.

Beams must have a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. The step between them is 60 cm. You can slightly adjust this figure, depending on the characteristics of your home. The distance between the outer beams and the mauerlat should not be less than 90 cm. This distance is used for installing the half-beams of the eaves overhang (extension). The stems are attached to the two outer beams using strong anchors and reinforced metal corners.

Step V: Installation of support posts, purlins and ridge

Racks are an important part for supporting the structure; they redistribute the weight of the rafter system onto the beams or floor beams. The racks are installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the bed. In hipped systems, the supports are installed under the ridge beam (hip roof) or under the corner rafters (hipped roof):

The racks must be securely attached to the base using metal plates and reinforced corners. The purlins are installed as additional support for the racks. IN hip roof the purlins are rectangular in shape, and for the hips they are ordinary ridge purlins.

After we have verified the correctness installed supports(using a meter and level), you can attach the upper ridge beam. It is mounted on vertical posts and reinforced with reliable metal fastenings(plates, corners, anchors and screws). Now let's take on the corner extensions:

Step VI: Installation of rafters

First, you need to install the side rafters, which rest on the ridge beam and the Mauerlat (or are secured with an extension). To do this, you need to make a template rafter with the appropriate cuts. We apply the rafter leg to the ridge, mark the place of the cut with a pencil, then mark the place of the cut of the rafters for joining with the Mauerlat and make cuts. Attach the rafter to the supports again to make sure that the connection is correct and to correct any imperfections. Now this sample can be used to make all the side rafters. Installation of the rafter legs of the main slopes is carried out according to general rules described in the design of a gable rafter system (see article and video).

Diagonal (corner) rafters are installed next. Their upper edge is installed on the stand and joins the edge of the ridge beam. Before this, measurements are taken and the corresponding cuts of the rafter legs are made. The lower end of the diagonals is fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat:

Since diagonal rafters are longer than all other legs, they require additional support. This function is performed by trusses - support beams that are installed under each diagonal leg, in its lower quarter (this is where the greatest load occurs). Sprengel, like ridge posts, are installed on supporting corner beams located in the plane of the floor beams.

Between the corner ribs the space is filled with auxiliary rafter legs - sprigs. Their lower part rests on the mauerlat, and the upper part rests on the diagonal rafter leg. The step between the frames should be equal to the step between the side rafters (50-150 cm).

Step VII: Sheathing

All that remains is to complete The final stage formation of the roof skeleton - installation of sheathing. These are boards or bars 50x50 mm, which are attached to the rafters parallel to the ridge girder and the mauerlat. The pitch of the sheathing boards is 50-60 cm. This is quite enough for installation roofing pie. When is it envisaged soft roof, the sheathing is laid in 2 layers (counter-lattice and sheathing).

Finally, a few videos:

So, we described the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof, its basic principles, and even went a little deeper into some of the nuances. Hip and tent structures are, although not the simplest, but quite feasible options for every novice craftsman. Especially if he has good assistants. We wish you success in your work!

The technology of installation and the design of the roof of houses are formed mainly depending on the climatic conditions of each individual region. The rafter system of a hipped roof, difficult to manufacture, is not suitable for northern latitudes, but is widespread in the European part of the world. Thanks to its advantages, it has become widely used in our country.

In this article we will look at a hip roof, its advantages and disadvantages, as well as some installation features.

Already from the name it becomes clear that a hipped roof has four planes - slopes, and this is its main difference from the classic gable roof.

An important feature of a hipped roof is that the design of such a roof does not include gables, which makes its construction much simpler and allows for significant savings in materials.

1. Advantages of a hipped roof:

1. In regions with high wind loads, such a roof design provides little wind resistance and reduces the load on the entire rafter system as a whole.
2. A hipped roof is stronger than a gable roof and is less subject to deformation.
3. This design makes it possible to make overhangs and cornices of significant dimensions, which well protects the walls from precipitation.

2. Disadvantages of a four-slope rafter system:

1. Price. Such a rafter system is more expensive than a gable one. But if we take into account the arrangement of brick pediments for gable construction, then the difference will not be that big.
2. Reducing attic space. With the same area as the entire building, two additional slopes will reduce the habitable volume of the attic space. On the other hand, with a residential attic it needs to be heated, and with a smaller volume of attic space, heating costs will be slightly reduced.
3. Sloping window systems. They will be regularly exposed to snow, rain and other elements, and the potential for leaks and loss of seals is much higher than for vertically installed window systems.

3. Types of truss structures for hipped roofs:

3.1 Classic hip

It is made of two slopes in the form of triangles and two trapezoidal ones, the rafters are made without fractures, they start from the ridge, the overhangs are the same in height.

Scheme of rafters for a hip roof

3.2 Tent

Visually it looks simpler, but it is much more difficult to install with your own hands than a classic roof. Consists of a truss structure where the rafters are installed equal length, connecting in one place.

Scheme of rafters for a hipped roof

3.3 Other types

There are also types of hipped roofs such as - semi-hip, hip-pediment, multi-pincer, diamond and others.

For comparison, the main types of hipped roofs can be seen in the figure below:

Types of hipped roofs; a - hip; b - tent; c - half-hip; g - hip-pediment: 1 - ridge; 2 - hip; 3 - triangular slopes; 4 - pediment; 5 - slope; 6 - valley (valley); 7 - support board

4. Features of installing a hipped roof

During the construction of a hipped roof - the main technical document are design drawings. Roofing diagrams can be easily found on the Internet, but if you want to be 100% sure of the reliability of your roof, then you need to contact the designers. The design company will perform calculations based on climatic conditions, wind and snow loads, building dimensions and other important parameters; such calculations will be strictly individual, and therefore accurate and reliable.

The frame of a hipped roof is made of more than one rafter elements- the Mauerlat is located on the main load-bearing walls. This structural part must be mounted strictly in a horizontal position to ensure the exact geometry of the entire building. Ceiling beams are mounted on the support beam; when making a wooden frame, the rafters are strengthened on top of the crown.

5. Construction of the rafter system for a hipped roof:

• To support diagonal rafters, they are secured with shortened rafters (springs).
• At large area roofs, truss trusses are used so that the loads are transferred to them from the slanted rafter beams. They are supported by additionally made tightenings and wooden beams located longitudinally and transversely.
• Next, the crossbars, struts, racks are installed and a tightening system is installed; these parts relieve the rafters from part of the load, due to which the structure acquires additional rigidity.
• From above, the diagonal parts are strengthened on the ridge girder, which in turn rests on the longitudinal beam of the attic floor. The height of the ridge is determined according to the design documentation.
• To securely fasten the Mauerlat to the rafter legs, you need to make notches and mortises with your own hands, supplementing them with iron fastening elements. The joints between the rafter legs and the support beam must be made carefully and reliably; the strength of the entire structure depends on them.
• The horizontal rafters in the upper part are connected by horizontal crossbars, which can be made from boards 40 mm thick and 120 mm wide. They are located at a distance of 100 cm from the top of the ridge. Thanks to the crossbars, hip slopes have good resistance to loads from strong winds.
• The roof overhang protrudes from the walls of the building at a distance depending on the length of the applied rafters; if necessary, they can be extended by fastening two boards.
• After installing the diagonal rafter elements, it is necessary to install ordinary ones in increments of about 600 mm.

Name of the main elements of the rafter system of a hip roof

After the rafter structure system is fully equipped, it is necessary to make lathing, properly install hydro- and vapor barriers and treat the wooden elements with antiseptic preparations.

If it is not planned to equip the attic space for living quarters, then similar type roofing is the most reliable and economical option for arranging a roof in a private house.

The problem of choosing the most successful roof frame design is always accompanied by two conflicting desires. No matter what type of building is planned for construction, any developer would prefer to get the most attractive, durable and durable design, with relatively low costs for its construction. The hipped roof truss system, which today is one of the optimal ones, most fully meets the above requirements. design solutions for housing stock.

Advantages and disadvantages of using hip roofs

Even a superficial glance at a hipped roof system suggests that such a rafter frame system of two pairs of symmetrical slopes will look much more elegant and prettier than a simplified design gable design.

It is clear that most future customers prefer to build a rafter system for their home not only because of a more interesting design, although appearance buildings are also important. First of all similar solution designs are chosen due to tangible benefits four-slope system:

• The use of two additional opposing slopes instead of roof gables reduces the wind load on the entire structure of the rafter system;
• Installing two additional inclined surfaces makes it possible to remove and dump any amount of rainwater, snow and ice from the roofing pie, the most dangerous type of moisture - water condensate;
• Using a hipped roof system allows you to reduce heat loss by reducing the total area of ​​the roofing and gable surfaces.

Important! A roof with four slopes cannot be built “by eye” and using the fitting method, therefore, before making rafters for the roof, the dimensions of the rafter beams of the four-slope system must be calculated using tables and checked by lengths and joining angles before cutting and assembly.

The four-slope rafter system is a balanced structure in which the loads on the roof frame from the roofing pie, snow and wind are mutually compensated, like in a house of cards. If you try to assemble a frame without careful design preparation, instead of maximum strength and stability, you may end up with an emergency object.

The four-slope rafter system also has a lot of disadvantages. Most often, problems arise due to the need to take additional measures to protect the joints on the mating line of the slopes. In addition, 30% more roofing material, insulation and expensive long timber will be required.

Options for a hipped roof scheme

In addition to the classic version, which uses two triangular and two trapezoidal planes, a roof with four slopes can be built using one of the types of frame:

All modifications of hipped or hip scheme designed for specific climatic conditions of roof operation. For example, Danish roofs resist wind and large amounts of snow well, while Dutch roofs are designed to withstand heavy rain and snowfall in urban areas. Tent structures with small slope angles are used for buildings in open, windy areas. The classic version can be used for any conditions, but in this case you will need to carefully check the position of the building relative to the wind rose.

Construction of a rafter frame for a hipped roof

The easiest way to understand the structure of the rafter system of a hipped roof is from the drawings. In a conventional gable structure, the weight of the rafter beams was partially transferred to the ridge girder and to the timber frame of the walls or mauerlat.

Balancing the two roof slopes is relatively simple by simply adjusting the rafters and installing struts.

In a four-slope rafter system, everything is much more complicated, therefore, in addition to ordinary rafters, it is necessary to use significantly more in the roof frame large quantity power elements:

• Sloping or diagonal rafters. With their help, the side slopes of the roof are formed, the rafter system is balanced in the direction along the main axis of the roof;
• Central rafter beams. Often the strength and stability of diagonal rafters is not enough, especially on large roofs, so you have to use central rafters installed on the same axis with the ridge girder;
• Roofs are short rafters that form the side slopes of the roof. The length of each frame is calculated and cut at the location where the rafter is installed on the frame.

In addition to rafter elements, when building a hipped roof, trusses, struts and struts must be used. With their help, the load is strengthened and redistributed in the roof’s load-bearing elements.

For your information! The result is a rather complex multi-element design; in order to take into account all the requirements for the strength and stability of the rafter system, it is best to use a ready-made software package, even the simplest one.

Of course, you can build a rafter system without any design and calculations. For example, you can use timber and boards of increased cross-section, and instead of the recommended strength coefficient of 1.4 units, get a two or three times safety margin bearing capacity. But it is worth understanding that in this case the weight of the rafter system and the cost of building a hipped roof will increase by 3 and 8 times, respectively.

Methodology for calculating the lengths of rafters of a hipped system

For the simplest buildings, for example, a gazebo, barn or small garden house, you can use a simplified version of calculating the lengths of rafter beams. To do this, you will need to draw up drawings of the rafter system of the hipped roof. To simplify the calculation, we choose the classic version with two side triangular hips and trapezoidal main slopes.

The basis for calculating the roof truss structure is a system of right triangles. Each rafter represents a hypotenuse right triangle. The smaller leg is equal to the height of the ridge posts, and the larger one coincides with the projection of the rafters onto the plane of the ceiling, which is also called the laying. The projection line intersects with the axial or projection of the ridge beam at an angle of 45°, which greatly simplifies the calculation.

Initially, you will need to select the angle of inclination of the slopes, usually 20-35 o, depending on the design of the hipped roof and the type of roofing. For calculations, you can use the Pythagorean theorem for a right triangle or standard tables with ready-made conversion factors for rafter lengths for given angles. In such tables, the angle value is indicated as a decimal fraction, for example, 3:12. This means that for a given angle and laying length of 12 m, the height of the rack will be 3 m. The conversion factor for a diagonal rafter is also given here; it is enough to multiply the laying length by the value of the corresponding table correction.

At the first stage, we determine the installation coordinates vertical racks skate and its length. To do this, measure the distance from the corner to the point of intersection of the center line and the Mauerlat, then lay off the resulting segment from the corner along the ridge axis and draw a line parallel to the wall. The intersection point of the axis and the drawn line will give the installation location for one of the ridge posts. A similar procedure will need to be performed again on the opposite wall, as a result we will obtain the installation point of the second rack and the length of the ridge beam.

At the second stage, using a plumb line, you will need to measure the position of the diagonal rafter with a ruler, knowing the angle of inclination of the slope, you can calculate the length of the slanted rafter beam. The length of row and central rafters is calculated in a similar way.

The calculation of the money-makers is a little more complicated. First, the diagonal rafter beam is marked with the step of installing the flanges, as a rule, this is 70-90 cm. Each flange can be considered as a leg of a triangle. Knowing the size of the leg and the height of the junction point of the outer rafter to the diagonal beam, you can easily calculate the size of the outer rafter.

If the design of a hipped roof uses trusses to strengthen the diagonals, then their size can be calculated even more easily. Most often they are installed at a distance from the corner of 1/3 of the laying length.

Features of assembling a hipped roof frame

The process of assembling the rafter system of a hipped roof always begins with the installation of the central element of the frame - the ridge girder and vertical posts. A ridge bench can be assembled from timber with a cross-section of 70x100 mm, but most often the racks are made from a pair of 50 mm boards. To increase the rigidity of the entire ridge beam and post system, metal plates are placed at the corner joints, and the frame itself is reinforced with internal bracing.

Typically, the assembly of rafter beams is carried out using nails, and the places of reinforcement are fixed with steel plates bolted connections. Before installing the rafter beams, a sawing template in the form of a right triangle is usually made from a sheet of plywood. Sharp corner must correspond to the angle of inclination of the slopes. Using a template, mounting areas for supports on the mauerlat and ridge are cut out on the rafters.

The process of installing rafters begins with the installation of central rafter beams, which will provide the necessary rigidity of the ridge frame in the axial direction. Sometimes they do without them, in which case they immediately proceed to the installation of the outer pairs of ordinary rafters, but the timber is only grabbed with nails, without final fixation to the ridge.

After strengthening the ridge frame, corner diagonal rafters are installed. Typically, the length of a beam or beam is cut with a margin, since the upper edge will need to be sawed at a double angle, first at the angle of inclination of the slope, then the oblique edge is beveled at an angle of 45 degrees. At the last stage, they install the trusses, struts, fill the frames and ordinary rafters.

Conclusion

The most difficult stage of assembling the rafter system of a hipped roof is the joining of two diagonal beams with the ridge. The strength and stability of the entire hipped roof depends on how accurately the diagonals are inserted, therefore most time has to be spent on adjusting and trimming the size of the rafters. The rest of the assembly operations are practically no different from the construction of a gable rafter system.