Installation of sheathing for pitched roofs. Installing roof sheathing on rafters. Installation of sheathing under siding. Installing sheathing under metal tiles What the sheathing is attached to
What nails should be used to secure the sheathing on the roof.
There are three types of nails that can be used to install wood sheathing. These are ordinary glossy nails, and ragged And screw nails.
Which nails are better
It is highly undesirable to use ordinary glossy nails (smooth rod) for the roof, since they have low tensile strength from lumber. For simple ones construction nails There is a bad property - when the tree dries out, they begin to come out little by little. Over a couple of years, in total with the tested loads and external influences- the fastening of the sheathing weakens, which can negatively affect the durability of the rafter structure.
Rough nails
"The best" the best option- for fastening wooden elements When constructing roofs, use galvanized ones. They have the highest tensile strength, which is why in professional construction world deservedly considered No. 1.
Often, rough nails are also called ring nails.
Rough nails have proven their reliability when used on wooden pallets, which, like the sheathing, is also a lattice structure.
Those who have had to deal with disassembling a board nailed with ring nails know that it is easier to make a hole in the board than to pull out a rough nail.
After many years, fastening to rough nails will remain strong and reliable.
Length of nails for sheathing
The size of the nail needed to fasten the wooden sheathing depends on the thickness of the sheathing used.
- To attach a 20 mm thick sheathing, the nail length must be at least 60 mm;
- Lathing 25-30 mm thick - attached 70 mm;
- Sheathing thickness 40-50 mm - nail 90-100 mm;
- For 60 mm thickness - nail length = 120 mm.
It is worth emphasizing as a separate point that:
For roof sheathing, since this is a long-term structure, it is advisable to use nails galvanized grade.
Consumption of nails for sheathing
- Consumption of nails in wooden beams up to 50x50 mm in size, one nail per connection (so as not to split the wood).
- For lathing widths from 60 to 120 mm, you can use 2 nails per connection to the counter beam or rafter leg. You can alternate the number of nails along the sheathing according to the scheme 2-1-2-1-2-1-2...
- If a wider board 130-200 mm is used, 2 nails per connection are required.
- And, if the board is already quite wide (more than 200 mm), use 3 nails per connection.
If there are no rough nails, they can be replaced with ones of similar length screw nails.
Screw nails, unlike simple construction nails, can withstand loads and wood drying processes much better.
Every man should, if not build a house, then at least trim it with his own hands. If as facing material Since siding has been selected for external walls, all installation features will need to be studied.
Installation of siding involves the installation of sheathing - a frame for the siding. To improve the home and protect it from harmful influences external environment, as well as to ensure the preservation of the appearance of the facing material, it is necessary to implement several stages of work. And also, put into practice some useful tips.
Is lathing necessary for siding?
Installation of wood, vinyl or metal siding begins with determining the need for sheathing.
Of course, siding can be attached directly to the base of the house, i.e. without sheathing. But, only if:
- the base is level;
- the surface area is insignificant;
- it is possible to provide ventilation gap;
- There is no provision for installing thermal insulation material under the siding.
In all other cases, regardless of what type of siding you choose, installation of the frame is necessary.
Good to know. The sheathing is needed not only to attach the siding sheets, but also to provide the ventilation gap necessary to ensure condensation drainage.
Do-it-yourself lathing for siding - instructions
Stage 1 – surface preparation
Guarantee high-quality installation siding panels will prepare the base of the surfaces that are intended for cladding.
Advice. Do not think that defects in the house can be “hidden” behind the cladding. They will definitely show themselves, but access to them will be much more problematic than before the sheathing.
Surface preparation includes the following:
- Dismantling protruding elements on the facade of the house. Regardless of the material from which the house is built, you need to remove everything unnecessary. Obstacles in this case include: protruding window sill, low tide, deformed plaster, peeling paint. If there are poorly nailed boards, they need to be secured.
- Sealing cracks. If there are any, seal them with cement-sand mortar ( Brick wall) or tow (wooden, timber, log).
Advice. If the house is wooden, it is necessary to treat its surface with an antiseptic solution to protect the base from pests.
- Getting rid of everything in contact with the surface. Tree branches, bushes, drainage system, places where lighting fixtures are fastened, awnings, canopies - all this needs to be removed so that covering a private house with siding is less problematic and of higher quality.
Advice. At fastening points decorative elements(corners), as well as near windows and doors, you will “stomp around” a lot, so if you are afraid of any bushes or perennials, it is better to transplant them. You must have at least a meter and a half square meter of free space to install the frame for the siding.
- Try to remove any roots that might sprout inside the siding sheathing. Visually they will be invisible, but over time they will lead to deformation of the insulation under the sading.
- Alignment of walls. Maximum visual effect cladding is possible if there is a flat surface. For leveling, a building level and plumb line are used.
Stage 2 – tools and materials
It is advisable to prepare both of these before starting work. In this case, you will not have to interrupt your work due to lack of material or searching for a tool.
Tools:
- grinder or metal scissors;
- roulette;
- plumb line;
- square;
- building level;
- hammer;
- hacksaw.
If the house is tall, you should take care of scaffolding, because it is very inconvenient to carry out installation from a stepladder.
Good to know. The work of installing the sheathing is quite dusty. Therefore, to protect your eyes and hands from chips, splinters and scratches, stock up on safety glasses and gloves.
Material:
The names and quantities depend on what will be used as the material for the frame - wood or a metal profile.
Types of sheathing for siding
Option 1 – wooden sheathing for siding
Wooden beam section 50x50mm.
The amount of timber is calculated only based on the need for standing profiles, which are mounted in increments of 500-600mm, depending on the type of insulation.
Hardware. Quantity based on 1 hardware per 400 mm. surfaces.
Good to know. It is more difficult to “extend” (build up) a wooden beam, so the length of the post beam must be equal to the height of the house.
When choosing wood for a frame, pay attention to its moisture content. If it is above 12%, the wood should be subjected to natural drying. The drying time depends on the humidity level. And it can reach 1 month.
Advice. During drying, it is better to press down the wood with something heavy to avoid “torsion” of the wood. It is better to store lumber in a well-ventilated area, avoiding direct sunlight as much as possible.
The service life of wood can be increased by impregnating it with a special solution.
Option 2 – metal sheathing for siding
A frame for metal profile siding will cost you more, but installation will be easier and the durability will be several times higher.
For device metal frame you will need:
UD guide profile
The number of profiles can be easily calculated by summing up all the perimeters. For example, you have a wall measuring 3 by 3 meters, in which there is one window measuring 1 by 1 meter. Then, you will need 3+3+3+3=12 m.p. profile for the wall and 1+1+1+1=4 m.p. for installing a guide profile near the window.
Stand CD profile
The need for it is determined as follows: the length of the surface is divided by 0.6. Since a profile is installed on average every 60 cm. The height of the house will increase the number of profiles.
Good to know. The installation distance of the profile is affected by the expected insulation under the siding.
CD connector for CD profile
Needed if the height of the house is more than 3 or 4 meters. (standard profile length 3 or 4 m.p.).
The number of connectors is calculated based on the estimated number of profile joints.
Good to know. Since the purpose of the frame is to withstand the weight of the siding, the thickness of the metal profile must be at least 0.45 mm.
Elongation is carried out using the method shown in the figure.
ES bracket
Used to fix the CD profile to the surface.
Good to know. ES-bracket (U-shaped bracket or crocodile) allows you to level the surface clearly.
Hardware. For attaching UD profile. The choice of hardware depends on the quality of the base (wall).
Advice. A self-tapping screw is suitable for aerated concrete and brick. For wood you need a dowel screw. The length depends on the quality of the surface. Quantity based on 1 hardware per 400 mm. surfaces.
Hardware “flea” 3.5x9.5mm. For fastening metal to each other.
Stage 3 – marking the sheathing for siding
Markings are applied using building level and plumb line. In the future, a frame will be built on it.
Advice. When applying markings, keep in mind that if the siding will be mounted horizontally, the markings should be applied vertically. If it is vertical, then the marking will be horizontal.
The correct geometry will ensure a beautiful and problem-free installation of siding panels.
Do not think that defects in the arrangement of the frame can be “hidden” behind the siding. On the contrary, they will appear quite clearly.
In regions with a humid climate, moisture insulation will help protect the surface of the walls from moisture. The choice of insulation material will be affected by the material of the house's foundation. Installation of moisture insulation is shown in the figure.
Stage 4 – installation of a frame for siding
Method 1 – installation of wooden sheathing under the siding
The technology of this method is simpler, since it does not require the installation of a horizontal profile.
As already mentioned, vertical beams are mounted at a distance equal to the width of the insulation. The self-tapping screw is attached in 400mm increments. If there is a strong wind load in the region, it is better to install with smaller increments.
No horizontal fastening of timber is required
And the starting strip of siding will be attached directly to the stand profile. 
Despite the fact that there is no need to fix the beams horizontally, near window and doorways they will provide greater rigidity.
The same purposes will be served by installing beams at all corners of the house and in places of high loads. For example, where a canopy will be installed or a lantern will be hung.
Advice. Work on the device wooden sheathing cannot be carried out in wet weather.
Method 2 - installation of metal sheathing under the siding
Work on the construction of the metal frame begins with the installation of the UD profile. It is attached along the perimeter of the wall, and also frames window and door openings.
To install the guide strip, a UD profile is used, and the siding will be attached to the metal sheathing using a CD profile, which is mounted in increments equal to the width of the insulation.
Good to know. In fact, a UD profile is not required to attach the starting strip. Its main purpose is to fix the stand-up CD profile and impart rigidity to the entire structure. To do this, the CD profile is simply inserted into the UD profile, as shown in the photo.
The CD profile is attached to the wall using an ES bracket. Its use is convenient because it allows you to simultaneously level the frame, without the use of additional beacons.
The CD profile is extended depending on the height of the house using a CD extension. As shown in the photo.
Advice. Particular rigidity of the structure must be provided at the corners of the frame, since there the load on them will be greatest.
Conclusion
We found out that, despite the type of siding chosen, the siding of the house using it is almost always carried out on the frame. We also looked at the process of installing sheathing under siding and studied the main materials (wooden beams, metal profiles) that are used in this case.
Tiled roofs have been used by man for centuries. One can even safely say that such a coating is a kind of standard for an exemplary, neat roof of a house. Once used everywhere, tiles have somewhat “gone to the side” with the advent of sheet roofing materials. This was understandable: laying large sheets is incomparably easier than piece parts, and the base under the sheet covering is much easier to install. Thus, tiles from the category of ordinary roofing gradually “migrated” to the group of elite ones, which are not accessible to everyone, due to the complexity and high cost of creating such a roof.
However, manufacturers of roofing materials, responding to consumer requests, found a very profitable solution - a “symbiosis” of sheet and tile covering was created. That is, the result is a combination of simplicity and speed of installation, affordable price and opportunities self-installation with an appearance that very reliably imitates natural piece tile covering. We are definitely talking about metal tiles.
This roofing material immediately gained the highest popularity. One of the reasons for this success was probably the possibility of installing the coating yourself. It is simple if the roof sheathing under the metal tiles has been installed correctly. So let's see how to independently complete this stage of work according to all the rules.
A few words about metal tiles and the principles of their fastening to the roof
To correctly understand the principle of creating sheathing for metal roofing, you need to have an idea of the structure of this material and how it is generally attached to the base.
What is metal tile
So, metal tiles are a profiled metal sheet covered with a special protective and decorative coating. The manufacturing material is most often steel - cold-rolled sheets with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.7 mm. Much less common, but still found metal tiles coatings made of aluminum and even copper. They are, of course, much more expensive than steel ones, so they are not in particularly wide demand.
On the production line, metal sheets are passed through special machines, where with the help of special shaped rollers, due to the plasticity of the metal, they are given the desired relief.
The relief of the coating is designed in such a way that it reliably imitates a natural tile covering. These are so-called modules arranged in horizontal and vertical rows, each of them is ready-made and is a “dummy” of piece tiles.
This form of relief, in addition to purely decorative qualities, gives several more “preferences”:
- Free flow of rain or melt water is ensured - it simply rolls down the “steps”, and when correct installation there are no prerequisites for stagnation.
- The given relief gives metal sheet high performance spatial rigidity. Thus, metal tiles even outperform corrugated sheets in terms of permissible load on transverse bending, without being inferior in terms of longitudinal bending.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
- The relief also serves as a kind of “lock” connecting adjacent sheets. This makes installation much easier, because even if you wanted to, it’s difficult to make a mistake. When laying the sheets, they fit perfectly, overlapping the modules one on top of the other, without requiring either longitudinal or transverse alignment. The overlap lines become almost invisible, and the tight fit of the “lock” sections guarantees reliable protection of the roof from leaks.
There are many varieties on sale, produced by domestic and foreign companies. IN Lately Small regional companies also appeared that purchased and installed production lines, and now independently produce metal tiles acceptable quality from ready-made steel sheets coated, thereby meeting the demand needs in the populated area and nearby administrative region. But most often this is still done according to the “patterns” of proven and practice-tested models from well-known manufacturers.
Linear dimensions of metal tile sheets
This publication does not aim to consider the aesthetic or operational advantages of metal tiles. We are more concerned with the question of how to ensure that these virtues are revealed in full force, that is, how to create all the necessary conditions for high-quality installation of the coating. But for this you need to get acquainted with the geometric structure of metal tiles - with hermain linearparameters.
The main indicators are shown in the figure below:
1 – total sheet width.
2 – useful sheet width. It is, naturally, less than the overall one, since the edge half-wave of the metal tile is designed to overlap with the adjacent sheet. When calculating the amount of roofing material, this value is used.
3 – total length of the metal tile sheet. It depends on the capabilities of a particular manufacturer and on the wishes of the customer. Thus, various companies offer consumers sheets with lengths from 5÷6 to 8 meters. In fact, you can order material in such a way that one sheet covers the entire length of the slope from the eaves to the ridge. On the other hand, this is not always convenient for production installation work at height - them for the difficulty of lifting a long sheet onto the roof without the risk of deformation. And, in general, it is undesirable to use sheets with a length greater than 4 meters. However, this rule is advisory in nature.
4 – module length or, as more often called the longitudinal pitch of metal tiles. But this parameter is extremely important for arranging the sheathing, since the distance between its guides depends on it.
The diversity in this parameter is not so great. Most often you have to deal with metal tiles module pitch of 350 mm. Roofing with large long modules of 400 mm is also popular. However, there are models with a length of “tiles” of 300 mm, and models of the “Retro” type are also more “discrete” - with a longitudinal wave pitch of 200 and even 150 mm.
5 – wave height – at profiles various models may vary significantly. It is generally accepted that the higher the wave, the more pronounced the indicators of the spatial rigidity of the material and its resistance to external bending loads. True, this affects the useful width of the metal tile sheet - it becomes smaller.
6 - it is clear that since the sheet imitates the laying of real tiles, it has a stepped shape - each successive module in the direction from bottom to top begins with a step. The height of this step can be different - from 10 to 20 or more mm, depending on the model.
Typically, advertising materials and technical documentation for metal tiles contain both a sketch of the coating and two diagrams - the longitudinal and transverse configuration of the sheet. Understanding such a scheme is not at all difficult. It is clear that the choice is always made primarily based on external qualities roofing material, but knowing its geometric parameters is still no less important.
Prices for ondulin
Below is a table that may help you make a preliminary selection of roofing material. Along with the illustration, it also contains the main linear parameters the most popular models.
[ table id=1924 /]
How does the metal tile fit and attach to the base?
So that the roofing material, even with its considerable spatial rigidity, has the ability to withstand external loads(snow, wind, etc.), it must have reliable support. And due to the fact that the metal tiles are given a stepped shape, each of the modules must have a point, or rather, a line of support. That is, each “lower tooth” or, as they also call it, the sole of the profile must rest against a sheathing element. What it looks like is shown in the diagram:
Attaching to the sheathing is done roofing screws, which are located directly under the step. The arrangement of fasteners may vary from model to model, but basically they are screwed through one wave, both horizontally and along the slope line. In the edge zones (along the cornice, gable, valley and ridge and along the overlap line of the sheets) usually fastening is made into each sheathing guide.
These rules basically predetermine the design of the sheathing for metal tiles.
General principles of sheathing design
The lathing for metal tiles can be created solid or sparse.
Continuous sheathing
A continuous sheathing is assembled from sheets moisture resistant plywood or OSB, at least 10 mm thick, or from boards, however, laying them not completely continuously, but at intervals of about 10 mm. Both options have their drawbacks.
- Continuous sheathing made of sheet materials it turns out, of course, very even, without any level differences, which sometimes happens when using poorly calibrated boards. However, in the context of the topic under consideration, this is where all its advantages end. But there are shortcomings, and very significant ones.
— Firstly, this is a very expensive business, since both OSB and, in particular, plywood will cost much more than conventional lumber.
— Secondly, the tightest possible fit of metal tiles in the base over the entire area is by no means a good thing. The high thermal conductivity of the coating will necessarily lead to the formation of condensation even with daily temperature fluctuations. But a ventilated gap for the free evaporation of moisture and the release of water vapor is not provided for this installation. That is, moisture will begin to accumulate under the roofing with all the ensuing (sometimes this even has to be taken literally) consequences.
- Thirdly, if you look again to the diagram in which shows how the metal tile modules rest against the base, it becomes clear that such lathing, in general, is not required at all.
For flexible bitumen shingles- yes, it becomes the best reason. But for sheets of metal tiles, it is quite possible to use cheaper and more practical solutions.
Prices for ceramic tiles
ceramic tiles
- A continuous sheathing of boards, which are located with a small gap from one another. This design is recommended for small roof slope angles when installing a roof made of corrugated sheets, slate or, for example, ondulin.
But metal tiles are fundamentally different from the roofing coverings mentioned above in that they rest on the surface not along the entire length in the direction of the slope, but only along the line of steps between the modules.
Let's look at a similar diagram again:
As you can see, part of the guides, and - quite impressive, does not perform any load-bearing role at all, since the profiled sheet simply does not rest on them (circled as an example with a large ellipse). In addition, we cannot exclude the possibility that when installing sheets of metal tiles, a self-tapping screw will fall either between the sheathing boards or into the edge of the board, thereby causing chipping or not providing reliability fastening at this point.
In other words, there is no technological need for a continuous plank sheathing, and in terms of the cost-effectiveness of using materials, it will be much inferior to a sparse one. This can be clearly seen below when we'll talk about materials.
Sparse lathing for metal tiles
This option seems the most optimal. As has probably already become clear, it is necessary to place the guide battens in such a way that the bottom of each horizontal row of metal tile modules has both reliable support at the bottom and a sufficient width of material for screwing in a roofing screw.
During construction own home An important process in roof design is the creation of sheathing. The level of work depends on the quality of the work performed protective properties future roof and the external attractiveness of the entire structure as a whole.
To create reliable roof yourself, first familiarize yourself with the important concepts and its schematic structure.
Roof frame - rafters that perform a load-bearing function.
The sheathing of the roof of a house is a structure made of beams and boards of various sections, which is mounted on the rafters. It promotes rational distribution of the load from ice, roofing material, and snow masses. Another important value is the creation of ventilation due to the gap between insulating material and decorative flooring.
Types of sheathing
When deciding the question “how to make a roof sheathing,” you need to clearly imagine what it can be like. This approach will help to take correct solution and create the most suitable type of structure. The main criteria for differentiation are the number of layers and the frequency of installation of the slats.
Types of construction
- solid (the gap between the bars is no more than 1 cm)
- weakly sparse (spacing sizes from 3-4 cm)
- sparse, also known as ordinary (intervals from 30 to 75 cm and above)
- two-layer
- single-layer
How to choose the right type of lathing?
Make your choice of technology taking into account the type of roof and decking. These criteria will also affect the choice of material for the construction of the sheathing.
Important! Lathing technology flat roof not particularly different from the slope one. It is much easier to do, especially if the angle of inclination is less than 2.5 degrees. Its cost will be several times cheaper.
How much does the sheathing cost?
In order to calculate the roof sheathing, use a specially created computer program quantity calculations required material. Enter the parameters of the roof and consumables that you know, after which the calculation will be performed automatically.
Important! Take into account the roof parameters not only those shown in the diagram. Measure real indicators - often they do not coincide. Also note the placement and width of the drain - its parameters affect the length of the roof, that is, accordingly, the total area.
Tools
Prepare the following tools to complete the job:
Installation of roof sheathing under metal tiles
If you prefer metal tiles as a roofing material, pay attention the following nuances in the process of creating the sheathing:
Consumables
- beams with a cross section of 30-40 mm
- boards with a section 20-25 mm larger (for installing the lower beam)
- bars with a cross section of 20-30 mm
- anti-condensation film
- galvanized hardware (screws, nails)
- wood antiseptic.
Installation technology
Important! Do not stretch the film.
Important! The length of the hardware is determined by the thickness of the timber. For reliable fastening, the length of nails and screws must be 3 times greater.
Video
The video will help you clearly understand the process of creating sheathing for metal tiles.
Roof sheathing under corrugated sheeting
Among distinctive features corrugated sheeting as a roofing material, we highlight the possibility of its installation even on roofs with a slight slope. At the same time, when doing roof sheathing with your own hands and then installing sheet material, strictly follow the technology conditions. This will ensure long and reliable operation. 
Select the technology based on the roof slope angle:
Important! It is advisable to use two-layer construction to create a reliable and durable support for the profile sheet.
Consumables
Sequence of work
Important! Between the first two beams, make the gap a little larger, taking into account the degree of load.
Important! Around chimneys, pipes, ventilation and fire openings, make continuous sheathing roofs to provide the necessary rigidity.
Lathing for soft roofing
The main requirement for lathing under soft tiles is smoothness and density in order to preserve the integrity of the future covering during installation.
Material required for work
- edged calibrated planed board 14 cm wide
- plywood sheets
- roofing film
- bars for attaching film
- roofing hardware.
Sequencing
Slate roof sheathing
If you chose slate as the roofing material, then the basic rules for creating sheathing will be similar to the above technologies. But there are also some distinctive nuances.
Material used
- Bars: 75x75 mm - for a regular profile 68x120 mm - for a wavy one
- roofing nails
- waterproofing film
- solution for additional protection of wood.
Technology
Use the weak-sparse installation method for flat slate and sparse with a large gap between the bars for a wavy profile.
- Perform installation insulating film in accordance with the rules described above.
- Install the beams starting from the bottom edge of the roof.
- Align the first beam along the line of the cornice, strictly observing the horizontal.
- Install subsequent boards in increments of 50 cm for a regular slate profile and 80 cm for a wavy one.
Important! Even bars should be thicker or located 3 cm higher than odd bars. This principle will help prevent slate sheets from bending.
Secure all beams with roofing nails.
Important! The support of each sheet of slate should be on the edges and the middle, that is, the load is distributed in three places.
How to properly make roof sheathing for rolled material?
In this case, use exclusively continuous installation technology or, if it is necessary to install a double layer, only make the bottom one sparse.
Consumables
- tongue and groove boards: thickness - from 200-250 mm, width 100-150 mm
- tongue and groove boards with rounded edges
- antiseptic for material processing
- nails
- anti-condensation film
- strip of roofing steel 30 cm wide.
Installation sequence
The preparatory process is no different from creating sheathing for other types of roofs - waterproof and treat the wood.
- Fasten a strip of steel intended for roofing along the entire length of the ridge.
- Install a continuous sheathing, starting from the eaves, placing the joints of the boards in a checkerboard pattern.
Important! Be sure to check the tightness of the boards to each other.
- At the ends of the roof, install boards with rounded edges to prevent damage to the soft flooring and to make it easy to tuck soft material under.
- Secure with nails, recessing the head into the thickness of the wood.
- Check for any bumps or protruding nails at the end of installation; if there are any, correct them.
- Check the strength of the created structure; the indicator will be the absence of deflections under the person.
When laying a double layer of sheathing for the outer layer, use slats 5-7 cm thick. In this case, install at an angle of 45 degrees.
Video
The attached video below of the process of creating the sheathing will help you better understand the technology
Conclusion
From the entire installation process described above for different types roofs, we can conclude that the basic principles of the technology are similar, the difference is made up of nuances, which are of particular importance. Therefore, it is not surprising that the price of roof sheathing will vary in accordance with the set of materials selected.
Despite the apparent simplicity of the construction process when creating the sheathing, pay special attention to the accuracy of the parameters of the materials used and compliance with the stages of the technology. Only if these conditions are met will the sheathing become reliable solid foundation For roofing and will ensure long-term operation.
Installation of sheathing- this is one of key stages roofing arrangement. It is on the sheathing that the roof covering will subsequently rest, which means that the strength of the roof itself largely depends on the correct installation of the sheathing and the strength of its elements. So, if you want to build a roof that will last you for many years without overhaul, take note of the recommendations and useful tips, which will be presented below.
Types of roofs and main elements of roofing structure
During the construction of private houses, dachas and country cottages The technology most often used is to construct gable and hip roofs. In the construction of garages and outbuildings, pitched roofing is also used.
- The rafters are wooden beams, which are the frame for the roofing “pie”. There are several approaches to this. For example, they may advocate external walls buildings, creating the foundation. Rafters can be secured using nails, staples and special sliding joints.
- The roof overhang is the lower part of the rafters that protrude beyond the outer perimeter of the building.
- The horse is top part roof, its “peak” formed at the point where the rafters are inclined.
- Waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier are the layers of the roofing “pie”, respectively responsible for protecting the under-roof space from moisture, cold and condensation, which can accumulate due to the lack of free air circulation.
Now that you are armed with the necessary terms, let's move on to the question. installation of sheathing.
Why is the sheathing installed?
The first and main function of the lathing is support for roofing. During the installation of the sheathing, the problem of uniform distribution of the load from the weight of the roof on the rafter system is solved.
In addition, if you are planning, you should definitely know that between the outer (cold) coating and the insulation layer there must be a ventilation gap and a membrane that protects the insulation from waterlogging with condensation and precipitation that can get inside due to depressurization of the roof. This gap is created due to the thickness of the sheathing beams, and serves as a protective membrane waterproofing layer, which is attached to the sheathing.
What kind of lathing can it be?
This kind of lathing is used when arranging roofs from ceramic tiles, metal tiles, slate, corrugated sheets and other rigid sheet materials. In progress installation of sheathing This type leaves gaps between the boards. As a rule, the pitch of fastening boards/beams depends on the size of the sheet of roofing material.
Continuous sheathing
This type of lathing involves fastening the boards end-to-end or replacing them with plywood, OSB or chipboard sheets. Continuous sheathing is used when constructing roofs from soft roll materials (soft tiles, roofing felt, etc.). The main advantage of such sheathing is the finished appearance roofing from the attic side, as well as a flat surface outside, which greatly facilitates the process of laying roofing material. The disadvantage is the high consumption of materials for arranging the sheathing.
What materials and tools will you need?
The main consumables are:
- Beam of at least grade I, without knots, length from 6 meters. The section of the beam should be 50x50 mm for metal tiles, 75x75 mm for ceramic tiles.
- Edged boards of at least grade II, with a minimum number of knots, with a length of 6 meters. The cross-section of the board is from 25x100 mm. If you plan to install a continuous sheathing, then it makes sense to replace the boards with plywood, OSB or chipboard panels.
- Nails, the length of which should be 3 times the thickness of the timber you choose. For example, if you use timber with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, then the length of the nails should be 15 mm.
- Staples for a construction stapler.
Prepare the following tools in advance:
- Hacksaw or chainsaw;
- Construction stapler;
- Roulette;
- Building level;
- Hammer;
The actual arrangement of the sheathing
Before you get to installation of sheathing, stretch two ropes along the diagonals of the roof slope, and then compare their lengths. The difference should not exceed 2 cm, otherwise, due to the irregular shape of the surface of the slope, problems may arise both when laying the sheathing and when installing the roofing material.
Next, a waterproofing layer is laid on the rafters ( polyethylene film or special material- at your discretion). Waterproofing is laid from bottom to top, starting from the roof overhangs. Here you need to leave a margin of 40-50 cm. Next, the material is placed with an overlap of 10-20 cm and secured to the rafters using a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are taped with tape. When all the waterproofing has been laid, counter-lattice bars are nailed on top of it to the rafters.
The formation of the sheathing itself also begins from the bottom of the roof slope. The first board is nailed along the edge of the overhang. It is very important to check the position of the edges of the board in horizontal plane, because it is along this first board that the roofing material will be leveled in the future.
The fastening spacing of the sheathing boards is determined depending on the size of the sheet of roofing material. Let us recall that for soft roof the boards are placed end-to-end on the counter-lattice bars. If you are making a sparse sheathing, you will need a template so that you do not have to measure the distance between the boards with a tape each time. A piece of the same board can serve as such a template.
One board must be nailed on both sides of the ridge, regardless of the pitch of the sheathing. The same applies to valleys, chimneys and other complex structures.
On this arrangement of sheathing can be considered completed. If you did everything correctly, laying the roofing material should also be successful.
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