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Insulation of the floor in a wooden house from below: materials and installation technology. How to properly lay floors in a wooden house? Correct installation of flooring in a wooden house

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result yourself or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required to carry out the work independently, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

Floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor “pie”.

The main element building structure for the floor is the strapping. For permanent buildings, it is usually made of powerful timber with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards securely connected to each other. Plank strapping is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber experiences.

Products used for strapping must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Wooden parts treated with oil do not rot or absorb moisture, so they last for many years. If there is no oil, use special means, available in every hardware store.

To extend the service life of the harness, you need to lay waterproofing on the foundation. Usually this is roofing material folded in two layers.

The strapping requires installation of logs. These are wide, powerful boards that need to be strengthened on the edge. They, just like the harness, need to be treated with an antiseptic. The joists must first be carefully inspected and cracks, if any, must be repaired. It is better to replace boards with major flaws with better ones.

In light buildings it is allowed to make prefabricated logs. For fastening components use special staples or pins. The docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. To do this, the cross-section of the lags is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, on which a membrane is laid, preventing the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home owners. Any type of floor can be used as a finished floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure of the structure

It’s not enough to build a wooden house, you need to build it correctly engineering Communication, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the joists allows you to hide most pipes If you have a crawl space or basement floor, you can install electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. The location of the water heater under the floor is especially important for a small shower.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect it from moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both when equipping the first floor and the second. It is laid under and above mineral insulation. Non-woven fabric Available in narrow rolls. When laying, individual parts should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the joists, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps OSB plates are best suited for this purpose.

OSB boards are widely used in residential construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good as a base for wood flooring, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. And here's the finish line OSB coating It's not worth doing.

For laying on joists installed in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent logs is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing using a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot or dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walked on.

Installation is done quickly because:

• does not require special skills;
• the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and no time is wasted on adjustment;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of covering. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of modern options flooring: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concrete floors are formed by pouring screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much longer.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce construction costs finishing floors A well-made screed can serve as a basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. There will be no serious damage, but heat loss is possible. Prevent Negative consequences possible by installing reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations have been carried out. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor. Wood is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. Natural material It is increasingly used by owners of country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

It is easy to cover a plank floor with boards on both sides. Secure fastening allows you to equip a “pie” of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether a structure is being erected on a foundation, earth, screw piles, or simply on brick pillars, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls by installing ventilation holes in them. Lack of air access to the underground will lead to rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the ceiling must be correctly calculated. A wood supply of 10-15 percent would also be useful.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with anti-rot and fungal agents.

Rough double-layer floors are made where the base is laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay a floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to the minimum, you can compact the earth, lay out a bed of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In a light country house used for seasonal stays, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to place brick pillars around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a uniform height (to the same horizon). Each support must be covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. A wooden lining 3 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic, should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This entire structure is closed by beams, along which logs are placed with constant horizontal adjustments. The structure is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the joists if the production is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor requires the installation of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, and, if necessary, other components between the rough and finished floors.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, and are resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards made from such trees have beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made by using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when you buy very expensive zebrawood wood.

Boards made from coniferous species trees, including pine and spruce. From such floors the room is filled with substances beneficial to humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and linden boards are required. They do not emit resin and are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent joists. At a distance of 600 – 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, preference should be given to boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to install the floors yourself, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. Moreover, than more canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take boards that are not wide and not too long.

One way to install a floor is to lay it staggered; in this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, the parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally secured with self-tapping screws, as is the case with solid boards. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight form of installation, a diagonal one is used. Laying at an angle of 45° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, with persistence and following the step-by-step guide, you can do without outside help and save significant money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn-out finishing coating is removed, the condition of the underlay is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During major repairs of floors, wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation, are replaced.

If the lags in good condition, but they begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, plywood coated with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finishing coating is done with sheet building material (fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The fastening points must be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a pitch of about 150 mm. The screw caps should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting depressions should be filled with putty. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be damaged. negative impact. And after some time, traces of poorly performed work will appear on it.

The process of constructing a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is related to the construction of the floor structure. Its type is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. What kind of floors there are in a wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the first floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement underneath, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction, installed on an earthen base (without underground). The installation of this type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. Another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured on top of it. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and rest against special recesses in the walls of the house. On top there is a single plank flooring, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Warm floors with a cold underground are recommended in areas where there is a high level of groundwater. This design is arranged as follows:

• cleaned sand in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and compacted;
• install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can fill concrete mortar into vertically buried pipes with metal frame required height;
• a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
• load-bearing beams are laid.

To install thermal insulation, it is necessary to install a subfloor laid on slats nailed to the ends of the joists. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After this, a plank covering is laid over the beams.

3. The installation of a cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the soil has a low level of soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should a wooden house be like?

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and smooth, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on installing a floor in a wooden house independently, they take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the structure of the building and the individual characteristics of the operation of the house. First we need to consider different variants floors that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account operating conditions, choose the appropriate option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the flooring material, it must meet sanitary, hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of installing a “warm floor system” can also be implemented.

Now there are several types of “warm floors” on the construction market. They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. We'll tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain a level base in a relatively short time is to pour a concrete screed. While it may take a month for the screed to dry completely, installing a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

1. In a significant reduction in the cost of the device finishing coating.
2. After the screed has dried, a flat base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
3. With an initially high-quality screed, additional leveling before the final stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
4. The screed can be installed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

You will learn how to install a concrete floor in a private house yourself in two main options - on the ground and on the floors.

Among the disadvantages, one can note the large weight of the monolithic floor structure and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. Therefore, the necessary foundation calculations are performed at the house design stage. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a heated floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

1. Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
2. Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not release harmful toxins into the environment.
3. Aesthetic appearance and an organic combination of wood with the rest of the surfaces of the building, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
4. When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a finished wooden base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
5. Wood is very durable and, depending on the species, you can choose a material with certain performance properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the home.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. To carry out routine repairs of its fragment, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Among the disadvantages of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material and the labor involved in its installation are noted. In addition, it can be quite difficult to obtain a perfectly even base.

Which is better - concrete or wood?

At the design stage of a private house, you must immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference is between these floors.

Price

To fill a screed 5 cm thick, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles/bag) and 1.5 (50 rubles/bag) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 screeds will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take as a basis dry timber 10 x 10 cm, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards (600 rubles / m 2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles/m2.

Communications

IN modern houses The heating, water supply and sewerage system is laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly sawed and access to communications can be gained. WITH concrete floors more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use a professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Deadlines

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

Wooden floors can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the installation of a wooden floor is not carried out by a professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creaking sound when walking on the floor. Concrete screed does not have this drawback. Moreover, when work is performed by hired workers, the result and quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m2 of wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1 m 2 ties with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of constructing floors on pillars

When constructing such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

1. Prepare the base. To do this, marking and excavation of soil with a plant layer is carried out. The resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand on top, which is then compacted.
2. Then the brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor and the structure below it.
3. It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the support column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
4. It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
5. I lay two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
6. Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the step of their location relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
7. Slag backfill, the height of which does not reach the log by 5 cm, is used to prevent the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation to the structure.

Laying the floor on top of the installed joists is done using boards, which begin to be laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on poles, as described above. Only on top of the supports are beams placed, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along beams embedded in the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams serve as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the sheathing:

1. The sheathing is made from timber with square section 5-6 cm.
2. The pitch of the timber in the sheathing depends on the thickness of the floor board. The thinner the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
3. During the installation of the sheathing, it is important to control its horizontal position so that the end result is an even plank covering.
4. Fastening the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
5. If it is not planned to lay additional decorative covering on top of the flooring - laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
6. After the single decking is installed, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then you can use an unedged board to construct it.

When making a single floor, no serious professional skills or significant time and financial costs are required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

The optimal solution for arranging the floor in a wooden house includes double layer construction, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

1. The subfloor is assembled from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to coniferous wood - it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and decay.
2. The boards are laid close to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
3. In addition to insulation, it is necessary to steam and waterproof the structure to extend its service life.
4. The finished floor boards are laid as for other types of structures, leaving a gap of 1.5 cm between them with the subfloor.

A clean floor can serve as a finishing coating or serve as a basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing plank flooring is necessary for several reasons:

1. To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence of high-quality floor ventilation.
2. It serves as a solid base for laying insulation and finishing flooring.
3. Makes the frame of the building more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of the rough structure, check the following:

1. The wood chosen as the material for the construction of the subfloor must have an optimal level of humidity - this will eliminate possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent use.
2. The boards should not have obvious defects.
3. If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the finished floor it is purchased with a reserve, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the floors. In any case, it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures:

1. The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special grilles.
2. All wooden parts are treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
3. Taking into account the size of the room in which the floor will be installed, calculate required amount material.
4. Throughout all work, it is important to monitor horizontal arrangement floor structures to prevent the formation of a slope.
5. Timber and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Laying the subfloor

To ensure that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is smooth and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to the laying of the subfloor and, first of all, to the joists.

The logs should be suspended on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the gap formed. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also further reinforced.

At the bottom, beams are nailed across the beams. Between floors, beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the beams.

After this, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with a construction stapler. The vapor barrier seam is taped.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid overlapping, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a 40 x 100 mm block, screwed to the floor joists. The finishing floor will be installed on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Insulating a wooden floor

Finished floor installation

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue-and-groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying finished floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be secured with self-tapping screws so that you can later cover the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	The first option uses self-tapping screws that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each joist in the center of the board. Subsequently, the caps can be masked using wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the tenon with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting them with a mallet through a block.
	Or they press it with a chisel.
	The second fastening option involves screwing self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the tenon. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the screw.
	With this option, the boards fit closer to each other, and the fastening elements are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with prerequisite that the soil must be dry.

Stage 1 – preparation

Preparatory work include the following actions:

1. Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate the excavation work.
2. To prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully compacted using special devices.
3. The ground is well compacted sand cushion. The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten it and compact it thoroughly using a roller or vibrator.
4. An expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

The next step is to perform , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this they use rolled materials based on bitumen. You can use thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid overlapping, extending it onto the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are taped. It is important that the material is homogeneous and without damage.

An alternative way is coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of pouring the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the subfloor

The subfloor or technological floor serves as the basis for the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its production, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

Lay on top of the subfloor vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive membranes made of fiberglass or polyester. Durable material resistant to rotting are PVC membranes. Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier - this can increase the energy efficiency of a living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

1. Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg/m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
2. Where the floor is subject to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms when compressed and then returns to its original state.
3. When using polystyrene foam, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides to give strength.

Stage 5 – final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative floor covering. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a coarse filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition (quartz sand) is carried out along the beacons. Begin pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution using the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is a dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos-cement sheets, gypsum boards. The technology is simple and fast:

1. Line with plastic film.
2. A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
3. Execute sand backfill 5 cm thick.
4. The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction adhesive.
5. Perform puttying and sanding of joints.

Finishing materials

The material for finishing the floor in a wooden house is selected depending on the interior design. If the appearance of the house inside retains the color of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishing, then the floor covering should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house, the best solution would be to install a floor made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wood paneling walls Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying parquet made of natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity - bathroom, shower bath, kitchen, as well as in the hallway, laying tiles will be a practical solution.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood is laminate, which is highly durable, wear-resistant and decorative. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house is distinguished by a special atmosphere of home comfort and warmth, so natural materials look natural in its walls.

One of the most common and important issues a private house made of wood has a cold floor. This is due to the outflow of cold air currents from the ground that penetrate through the cracks. To make the room warm and comfortable, it is necessary to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below. How to do this, what materials are used for this and the main points of installation work are described in this article.

Helpful advice! Working with cotton wool requires special protective clothing for the body, gloves and glasses. This is due to the fact that during installation work, small fibers are separated from the slabs. They can cause irritation and itching of the skin.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is small round porous balls of shale or clay. They are obtained by firing materials in a furnace at high temperature. Expanded clay is considered safe and environmentally friendly pure material. Among its advantages are:

• high sound insulation;
• resistance to low temperatures;
• environmental safety for humans.

A noticeable disadvantage of this material is compaction under its own weight. Expanded clay balls are pressed together. This leads to an increase in the weight of the substance and a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Helpful advice! You should not choose this material for floor insulation in a wooden house on screw piles. An increase in the weight of the floor covering can lead to subsidence of the foundation of the building.

Using sawdust for floor insulation

Sawdust is a waste product from the wood processing industry. They have good vapor and sound insulation characteristics, retain heat, and are environmentally friendly for humans. Sawdust is inexpensive. The resulting thermal effect is no worse than that of expensive materials. Thanks to the cement component, they are also well suited for insulating the floor in a ground floor apartment. Subsequently, laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. can be laid on such a screed.

Before use, sawdust is subjected to special treatment. This helps prevent rodents and bugs from appearing in them. Afterwards, they are mixed with cement and water and applied evenly over the entire flooring area.

Helpful advice!Instead of mortar, you can use clay. This material is environmentally friendly and has the best thermal insulation characteristics than cement.

Sawdust is ideal for insulating floors on the ground, especially if the structure does not have a strong and solid foundation.

Floor insulation with foam plastic

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam is popular. Most often this material is called polystyrene foam. Advantages of this insulation:

• low vapor and sound permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistant to external factors and chemicals;
• does not lose its properties for a long time;
• easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its susceptibility to moisture. He can absorb it into himself. This negatively affects the basic performance characteristics. He is also afraid of exposure to fire and high temperatures. But the simple and inexpensive technology of insulating floors with polystyrene is its significant advantage. This is what, in most cases, the home owner focuses on.

Helpful advice! If your dacha or a private house located on land with close groundwater or a high risk of flooding, you should not choose polystyrene foam as insulation. If the choice has already been made, you should take care of good waterproofing.

Ecowool

Polyurethane foam (ecowool) – great way solve the issue of floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor and a private house (dacha). This material is blown into the free space using a compressor. This way it evenly fills all the voids. Small particles, of which ecowool is composed, provide excellent vapor barrier. The material is not exposed to moisture, so no additional waterproofing is needed during its installation. This allows you to reduce insulation costs.

Related article:

How to lay it correctly. Features of different types of insulation. Tips for caring for your floor. Popular manufacturers and cost of materials.

After hardening, a solid, even layer is obtained. It can withstand the load perfectly. Low weight does not increase the weight of the structure. The service life of this insulation is more than 20 years.

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is the need to use special industrial equipment.

Helpful advice! Professionals say that when insulating with this material, waterproofing is not needed. However, when insulating the floor in a country house without a foundation, it is better to lay an additional waterproofing layer.

Penofol: floor insulation

The combination of polyethylene foam and a thin layer of aluminum foil is called penofol. It is sold as a rolled roll. The thickness of the seal is from 3 to 10 mm. Penofol retains heat well, is environmentally friendly, and has high sound insulation.

Retains heat well

The big disadvantage of this material is its susceptibility to moisture due to the presence of aluminum foil in the composition. Another disadvantage - penofol is no different long-term operation. After five years, it is necessary to re-insulate.

Key points of installation work

All materials used for floor insulation have their own methods of fastening. However, there are the main points of the thermal protection device. They are recommended to be followed when installing any material.

The order of arrangement of the main layers when installing floor insulation in a wooden house with your own hands:

• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• vapor barrier material;
• direct structural elements floors;
• flooring.

Experts say that this arrangement of the main layers will allow for optimal thermal conditions inside the room. This technology maintains the necessary circulation of moisture in the house.

Helpful advice! When insulating the basement floor in a wooden house, you can choose beams with a cross-section from 50 to 100 mm. They are fixed from below, and a layer of insulation is laid between them. Additionally, the resulting “pie” should be covered with boards.

Waterproofing

When insulating the floor in a private house, you cannot do without waterproofing. Due to the ability of cold air to condense on a warm surface, the wooden floor is exposed to moisture. Its constant presence in the room leads to the active development of fungus, mold and causes rotting of the structure itself. Especially if no special means were used during the construction of the house.

When laying thermal insulation without a waterproofing layer, exposure to moisture negatively affects the thermal conductivity properties of the material. The result is an increase in indoor humidity and a decrease in temperature. Waterproofing helps to avoid these unpleasant moments.

A waterproofing layer is laid on the side exposed to cold air currents.

Vapor barrier laying

Human heat and equipment operating in the house emit warm air. It passes through the ceilings and condenses when it encounters cold air. The problem with this phenomenon is that moisture settles inside the structure. As a result, the tree swells and begins to rot from the inside. It will not be possible to prevent this process by treating with special means. Therefore, when insulating the floor in a wooden house from below with penoplex or other material, the presence of a vapor barrier is mandatory.

When carrying out installation work from below, the vapor barrier layer is laid first. The simplest and most affordable material for this is polyethylene film. It is excellent for both vapor and waterproofing.

The presence of such layers in the floor covering must be designed in advance. If this was not done on time, then it is necessary to lay the film immediately after putting the house into operation.

Helpful advice! Moisture-windproof membranes are an excellent material for hydro- and vapor barrier. This material allows air to circulate and retains moisture from it. It can be used when insulating the floor with penofol or other insulation.

The main stages of laying insulation

The best installation option is to lay the floor insulation along the joists. These cross boards are used for subsequent flooring.

Main stages of work:

• The logs are installed on the finished foundation. The recommended distance between the bars is no more than 1-1.2 m;
• after this, thick plywood is installed or chipboard sheets. They are secured with self-tapping screws. This is how the base is prepared for laying the heat-insulating layer;
• between wooden joists insulation is being laid. Depending on the material used, the thickness of this layer may vary. In any case, it should not exceed the size of the logs themselves;
• Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Although this step is recommended by experts for maximum results, it can be skipped. This is due to the resistance of some materials to moisture;
• Now you can lay the flooring. It may be old. Or it can be replaced with a new one.

Compliance with the specified sequence will allow you to insulate the wooden floor with penoplex or other insulation.

Features of sawdust insulation

Floor insulation with sawdust - environmentally friendly and affordable way keep the house warm. When choosing this insulation, you must adhere to a number of recommendations:

• Broken glass should be added to the prepared mixture of sawdust and cement or clay. This will prevent rodents from appearing. Do not forget about the use of special solutions;
• the mixture consists of five parts sawdust, one part cement (clay) and half water. This proportion must be observed. When mixing a steeper solution, you will get durable insulation, but with a low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• carefully fill the voids between the joists. This will allow you to get an even layer of insulation. If you do not maintain this technology, the thermal insulation will be “leaky” and the floor will remain cold.

Helpful advice! Due to the large quantity available in the market insulation materials and the time required to prepare the mixture, sawdust is rarely used for insulation. However, they will help solve the issue of insulation with a limited financial budget.

Features of penoplex insulation

Due to its high strength and affordable cost, floor insulation with penoplex in a wooden house is more common than other materials.

Among the installation features of this insulation, we note the following points:

• penoplex is laid between the joists and attached to the floor from below with assembly glue;
• It is necessary to accurately and tightly fit the edges of the slabs. This will prevent cold air from entering;
• the joints are additionally glued for maximum adhesion;

• laying a waterproofing layer is required. This is especially important for a private house or cottage in a swampy area;
• Before laying penoplex, wooden beams and crossbars are treated with a special solution. This will avoid rotting and the appearance of bugs.

Helpful advice! If you live in apartment building, then choosing penoplex as floor insulation is the best solution. This material is laid in a thin layer and does not affect the height of the room.

Due to its light weight, penoplex is excellent for floor insulation in frame house. The load on the foundation of the building will be minimal. This will prevent the house from shrinking over time.

The main points of insulation with expanded clay

This insulation is installed according to the technology described above. However, there are a number of features that you need to know. To insulate the floor in a wooden house with expanded clay, you must:

• be sure to lay a cushion of sand. It is poured in an even layer and compacted thoroughly;
• A layer of liquid mastic is applied on top of this pillow. It plays the role of waterproofing;

• Now expanded clay is poured. To ensure that the layer is as even as possible and without voids, it is recommended to use a material of different fractions. This will allow the granules to fit more tightly to each other;
• a vapor barrier is required. Only after this can the main floor covering be laid.

Due to the noticeable weight of this material, insulating a wooden floor with expanded clay is best done with a solid foundation.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden floor in a house: video

Today on the Internet there are a great many training videos for self-installation of insulation. Viewing them will allow you to understand the technology of performing the work, the principles of selection and the main stages of laying materials. In addition, such videos contain a large number of useful points. This way you can find out, for example, about correct filling floor screeds with polystyrene foam insulation.

To make the floor in the house warm, you need to take into account many nuances. The correct choice of insulation plays an important role in this. When choosing a material for yourself, you should not be based on price or installation technology. Consider the type of structure, the nuances of the landscape and the features of the house’s operation (permanent or seasonal). Based on this, you can choose the ideal insulation for the floor.

Today, environmentally friendly construction is in the spotlight, and wood, as a building material, occupies first place in it. This is facilitated by the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly and affordable material that has been processed by humans for many thousands of years. More and more often you can see country houses and dachas made of wood, which combine nature and technology. As in any other home construction, one of the important stages is creating the floor. The installation of the floor in a wooden house itself is a very important and crucial moment, requiring increased attention to the work being performed. Therefore, in order for the floors in a wooden house to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow the technology of their installation and adhere to certain recommendations and rules.

Floor design and wood selection

The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements: joists, subfloor, hydro- and thermal insulation, finished floor and floor covering. The entire structure is installed on beams or support posts made of brick or concrete. Between the floor and the ground there is an underground, which is carefully ventilated to maintain the wood in optimal condition and create a microclimate on the first floor.

Scheme of a wooden floor

Important! Installing wooden floors on the ground is a fairly cheap option, but for their installation it is necessary to take into account the groundwater level. If it is high enough and the soils are wet, then you should worry about waterproofing the entire floor structure and high-quality ventilation of the underground.

Since the floor is subject to frequent mechanical stress, the wood for its creation must be selected carefully and adhere to the following rules:

• the humidity of the tree should be 12%, this will directly determine how long the tree will keep its shape;
• the wood must be free of chips and cracks, so that later you do not have to replace or repair part of the floor structure;
• boards should be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, this will help increase fire resistance and avoid damage by pathogenic flora;
• to create durable and robust construction you should choose hard coniferous wood - spruce, pine, larch, cedar, fir. Although the most durable will be deciduous oak or ash.

Underground space

Arrangement of underground ventilation

The microclimate in the house and how long the wooden floor will last will depend on how dry and well-ventilated the underground is. Therefore, to ensure ventilation, holes are installed around the perimeter of the base, which, regardless of the time of year and the direction of the winds, will provide natural ventilation. In case the winters are snowy, the underground holes are taken out ventilation pipes with a canopy, and to increase air circulation, you can install several window fans. It is also necessary to take care of protection from various rodents. To do this, grilles with cells up to 8 mm should be installed on all openings.

Wooden floor base

In order for the floor to be strong and durable, it is necessary to prepare quality foundation. Wooden floors in a private home are laid on support beams embedded in the foundation. If the design of a wooden house does not provide for support beams, then you will have to install support columns made of brick or concrete. The only difference is in the supports on which the logs are laid, further work The installation of wooden floors is identical.

If the beams are laid together with the foundation, then support pillars have to be done separately.

We determine places for arranging support columns. To do this, we make marks on the embedded beams and stretch the cord along the entire length of the underground. We do the same in the perpendicular direction. The corners of the posts will be where the cords intersect. It is also necessary to calculate the number of columns so that the step between them is 70-100 cm. The length of the step between the support pillars directly depends on the thickness of the beams or logs that will be laid on the pillars. The thicker the beam or joist, the smaller the step you can take between the pillars. For beams with a cross section of 150x150 mm, the pitch of the supporting pillars should be no more than 80 cm. The dimensions of the recesses for the pillars should correspond to the sides of the pillar. When laying support columns, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the higher the pillars are from the ground, the more stable they should be. Accordingly, the larger their cross-section should be.

Arrangement of concrete support columns for logs

In the places where the pillars are installed, we select soil to a depth of 40-60 cm and lay the pillars themselves. They can be made from brick or concrete. Brick columns with a height of up to 250 mm are laid in “one and a half” or “two” bricks, higher columns are laid in “two” bricks.

Important! For greater reliability of the construction of brick columns, it is advisable to pour a foundation under them, which will protrude at least 5 cm above the ground level. Secure the bricks cement mortar and waterproof.

Concrete pillars are more durable due to the reinforcing mesh inside. The dimensions of the sides of such columns range from 400 mm to 500 mm based on the height of the column itself.

Important! In order for the floor to be level, it is necessary to maintain the horizon even at the stage of laying support columns and beams. To do this, you should constantly check them with a level so that they are all in the same plane.

Then, over the entire area of ​​the future underground, we select fertile layer soil, level it and fill it with a layer of gravel and then sand. Water each layer with water and compact it thoroughly. To do this, you can use a special vibrating plate or an ordinary log with a nailed board.

Wooden floor installation

Once the base in the form of supporting posts or beams is ready, you can begin installing the wooden floor itself. We lay several layers of waterproofing on top of the posts; roofing felt is perfect for this. On top of the waterproofing layer we install logs or beams, which we firmly fix in place. You can lay logs directly on the support posts, but to increase the strength of the floor, you should first lay the beams and then the logs on top of them. If the length of the beam or joist is less than the length of the room, then place their joints on support posts, connect them together into a lock and secure them with self-tapping screws. To fix the beams and joists on the support posts, we use metal corners, which we firmly screw to the posts with dowels, and to the wood using self-tapping screws.

Important! We treat joists and beams with antiseptics and fire retardants. If you missed something somewhere, or if you couldn’t maintain the horizon for the columns, then it’s okay. This can be corrected by placing wedges or wooden spacers under the beam or joist where it settles. The wedges and spacers themselves are firmly fixed.

Single wooden floor

The installation of a wooden floor in a private house can be single or double, but the design of the floor itself will remain unchanged. Single wooden floors are usually made for summer wooden houses. Houses with such floors are unsuitable for year-round residence. To keep the floors warm throughout the year, double insulated floors are created.

To install a single wooden floor, you need to lay joists on the support posts and secure them. For lag it is enough to use wooden blocks 50x50 mm or 60x60 mm. A tongue-and-groove board 40-50 mm thick is laid on top of the joists and secured to the joists using self-tapping screws or nails. You can use linoleum as a floor covering or simply paint the boards. Sometimes, to give the entire floor structure strength, beams are first laid on the supporting pillars and then logs are placed on them. For support beams in this case use wooden beam thickness 100x100 mm or 120x120 mm.

Double floor subfloor

Laying a floor in a wooden house that will be habitable throughout the year involves creating a double floor with insulation. Such a floor requires a lot of effort and quantity of materials, but its level of reliability and strength will be an order of magnitude higher compared to a single-layer one. To make such a floor, you will need to complete the following stages of work:

Important! The boards must be laid at a distance of 15-20 mm from the wall to ensure ventilation and avoid swelling of the floor during seasonal swelling of the wood.

You can waterproof a wooden floor with 200 micron polyethylene film

• To waterproof the finished floor and floor covering, we lay a 200 micron thick polyethylene film and additional thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene on top of the subfloor. We lay the film overlapping, and glue its edges with tape together. We make an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;
• Now that everything is ready, you can begin laying the finished floor and flooring.

To create a finished floor, you can use sheets of plywood or solid boards. Sheets of plywood are laid on top of the heat-insulating layer and secured with self-tapping screws around the perimeter and diagonally. After which you can lay the wooden flooring.

Grooved solid board

A tongue and groove board made of solid wood is not only beautiful, but also convenient to install and use.

In the case of a solid board, everything is somewhat more complicated, although a significant advantage is that such a floor can be covered with varnish or paint without additional floor covering. There are two types of solid boards: tongue-and-groove and regular. The difference lies in the installation method. A tongue and groove board is simpler and more practical to install. To install it you need to do the following:

• before laying the board, it must be left indoors for three days and “get used” to the microclimate of the room;
• measure 10-15 mm from the walls to create a ventilation gap and in case of seasonal swelling of the boards;
• The finished floor boards are laid across the subfloor boards. We lay the first row of boards strictly along the line with the tenon to the wall and fix them with self-tapping screws. We screw in the screws so that near the wall they overlap with the baseboard. On the other side, we screw the screws into the groove at an angle of 45°;
• We place a wooden spacer in the gap between the wall and the board;

Important! If the length of the floorboards is smaller than the room, we lay them “staggered”. This will provide additional strength to the floor. The length of the screws should be several times greater than the thickness of the board. It is necessary to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw; this is necessary so that the board does not split or crack.

• We lay the second and further rows of boards with a tenon in the groove of the previous row. We compact it with a rubber hammer and secure it with self-tapping screws on the other side into the groove;

Important! In order for a wooden floor to last a long time, the boards must be laid in growth rings opposite each other.

Solid parquet board

We lay parquet boards “unstuck”

Another option for a finished floor is solid parquet flooring. Essentially this is the same tongue and groove solid board, only shorter. Its installation has its own characteristics:

• massive parquet boards can be secured with self-tapping screws only on the tenon side;
• performed only “staggered”;
• if a plywood base is used, then it makes sense to first glue the parquet board and then additionally secure it with self-tapping screws;
• massive parquet boards can be laid diagonally, thereby visually enlarging the room.

You can open the wooden floor with varnish or paint at the end of all installation work

Regardless of which element of the wooden floor structure we lay, it must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, this will extend the life of the entire structure. The installation of the wooden floor will be completed with the application of the final floor covering. This can be varnish or paint, the main thing is that the floor in a wooden house looks natural and fits into the overall concept. Laying a wooden floor is quite a responsible and complex task, requiring increased attention and care when performing the work. You can do all the work yourself, but still, it’s worth finding a partner.

Heat loss is not always associated with the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material; very often the reason for this is different temperatures in the basement and on the first floor of the house. Thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house prevents heat leakage, thereby reducing heating costs. High-quality floor insulation in a wooden house can be done with the right choice of insulation.

This is what an insulated floor looks like in section

Why is floor insulation necessary in wooden houses?

It is very rare to find wooden houses with high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, ensuring a comfortable stay even in severe frosts. In most cases, cold floors are a fairly common phenomenon in wooden buildings.

This happens according to the laws of physics from the school course, according to which the heavier cold air accumulates below. Lack of thermal insulation on the floor or disruption of the insulation process causes the formation of cold bridges between dried boards.

This phenomenon contributes to the loss of almost a quarter of thermal resources.

Video description

The advisability of floor insulation is clearly shown in the video:

Based on this, we can say with confidence that an insulated wooden floor eliminates the following problems:

Increased humidity in the room.

Low temperature inside the building.

Accumulation of condensation, which causes mold to form.

The appearance of harmful microorganisms.

Formation of rot inside wood structures.

The combination of these factors encourages the homeowner to start insulating a wooden floor, and to do the work according to all the rules.

Laying thermal insulation in interfloor ceilings

The result of the actions taken will be a comfortable and cozy stay, and most importantly, leakage of thermal resources and corresponding costs will be reduced. Thermal insulation can be carried out not only in old buildings, but also in buildings being commissioned.

How to choose the right thermal insulation material

Owners of private buildings often wonder whether floor insulation is needed in a wooden house, and which one is better to purchase to get a greater effect. The selection of material for this purpose can be called a rather crucial moment, so it is important to adhere to the following:

Weight of materials. Owners of private wooden houses there is little point in considering this characteristic, since their houses themselves do not create a large load on the foundation strip or pad. It is necessary to know the mass of the material only when working in multi-story buildings, where too heavy insulation will put additional stress on the floor slabs.

Moisture resistance. Most often, this criterion is looked at when finishing “wet” rooms - a bathroom or kitchen. You should also take this into account when building a house in latitudes with a humid climate.

Operational life. This parameter directly determines how many times and after what time the homeowner will carry out work related to repairing or replacing the floor.

The packaging of high-quality and certified materials always indicates their full characteristics

Thermal conductivity index. The lower the value of this parameter, the more heat will be retained in the house.

The degree of complexity of laying the material. Every master dreams of simplified installation work, therefore, than easier installation insulation, the better.

The presence of a basement or ground floor. If there is an unheated room under the insulated floor, then it is important to choose thicker thermal insulation.

Ceiling height. Laying insulation is always accompanied by a decrease usable space, therefore, in rooms with low ceilings it is better to opt for thinner insulation.

Features of use. Permanent or temporary residence also determines the thickness of the insulation.

Fire resistance. It is very important that the thermal insulation material is resistant to fire or at least does not support combustion. In addition, it should not emit harmful gases when heated.

In our catalog, you can find a list of companies specializing in finishing materials and works, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Ease of use is one of the the most important criteria selection of materials. Some of them are hard and can only be used on flat surfaces, while others are successfully used for thermal insulation of areas of complex shape. Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, you should choose the most suitable type of insulation.

When choosing a material, you must take into account the conditions under which it will have to be laid.

Insulation in rolls

Insulation materials are supplied in this form, the base of which is balsa wood or mineral wool. The physical characteristics of these materials (softness and reduced density) make it possible to lay thermal insulation not only on a perfectly flat surface without any particular difficulties. Roll insulation can be laid with the smallest number of joints, which increases the degree of thermal insulation. In most cases, this type of insulation is susceptible to high humidity, so when installing it you should take care of waterproofing. Sometimes rolled materials have an outer foil layer that protects the material from moisture.

Rolls are easy to unwind on a flat surface

Plate materials

These are lightweight insulation slabs or mats that cannot change shape during installation. They are characterized by low thermal conductivity and low weight. Easily mounted on surfaces with minor errors.

The slabs can also be laid alone

Liquid polymer thermal insulation

This type is a special composition that, when exposed to air, forms a hard foam structure. With the help of such thermal insulation, all hard-to-reach places and errors are filled. Among the well-known representatives of this type of insulation is penoizol, which is applied to the surface from a can using a special sprayer. The only drawback of liquid insulation is its high price.

Liquid insulation sticks to any surface

Loose thermal insulation

This type of insulation is represented by the following bulk materials, like slag, expanded clay or sawdust. They fill the required volume quite tightly, and installation is possible both on a pre-arranged base and on ordinary soil.

When using such insulation, you will have to install additional beams for the finishing coating and, as a result, raise the floor level.

When choosing a method for insulating a wooden floor covering, you should be guided by the efficiency of using the material and the financial benefits.

Least labor costs on flat surfaces

Popular materials for insulating wood flooring

Usually you don’t have to look long for the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house - in construction stores There is a large selection of different materials and all that remains is to choose the appropriate one, based on their characteristics.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

In addition to good thermal insulation, one of the main characteristics of these materials is their vapor permeability, so it is most effective to use them for insulating the floor of the first floor or basement. Under normal conditions in mid-latitudes, it is enough to use slabs 5-13 cm thick. If you take thinner slabs, then over time the savings will be offset by increased heating costs.

Working with foam plastic

Mineral wool

The properties of this material do not allow its use in floor screeds on the ground. But wooden floors insulated with mineral wool can boast of increased service life. It is recommended to insulate the floor between the basement and the first floor with a material whose thickness is 20-30 cm. Higher floors are insulated with materials 10-15 cm thick.

Video description

The procedure for working with mineral wool in the video:

Ecowool

The material is produced from shredded waste paper and cardboard packaging with further impregnation with fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool cannot be used for insulation on the ground due to its low density, but for floors on beams the material is considered the best option. In this case, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house can be 20-25 cm.

Ecowool backfill

Foamed polymers

The main difference is the high cost compared to other insulation materials. Can't be named efficient use this insulation on the floor and ceilings along the beams. Therefore, it is best to use foamed polymer thermal insulation materials for thin-layer structures under floor coverings.

Before installing the finished floor

Foam glass

The material is obtained by foaming quartz sand. The mass of such insulation is much less than that of dry wood. The main advantages of the material include good vapor barrier properties, the ability to withstand heavy loads without changing shape or loss of quality characteristics, as well as good noise insulation.

Foam glass is produced in slabs that can withstand the weight of a heavy-duty vehicle, or in granules for backfilling wooden floors.

The standard density of the material is 150 kg/m³, allowing it to be used for insulating the basement floor and ceilings located above. In this case, the thickness of the thermal insulation should be 18 cm and 15 cm, respectively.

Foam glass slabs

Expanded clay

IN Lately this insulation began to be used much less frequently due to the appearance on the construction market of more efficient thermal insulation materials. Some characteristics require an increase in the thermal insulation layer by 4-6 times compared to stone wool or ecowool. The ceiling on beams cannot always accommodate such a volume of insulation.

Expanded clay needs a lot of space

Fibrolite

This type of insulation is obtained by mixing cement powder, liquid glass and wood wool. The advantage of such thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house is the ability to dampen noise of various origins, as well as significant heat retention when covering the load-bearing walls of the house with this type of insulation. The high hygroscopicity of the material limits its use in floors on the ground, but for insulating floors on beams and for creating multilayer pies wooden structures it fits perfectly. The insulation of the floors between the basement and the first floor is carried out with a layer of 15 cm; for the upper floors, 10 cm of insulation is sufficient.

Fiberboard boards

Sawdust

Such isolation cannot be called the most effective way insulation of residential premises, since to reduce heat loss it is necessary to lay a layer at least 30 cm thick. Therefore, sawdust is most often used in non-residential attic spaces. Recently, sawdust has been used in the production of highly effective thermal insulation and materials with similar characteristics.

Leveling the sawdust layer

Izolon

This thermal insulation, made from polyethylene foam, has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, even with a thickness of 0.2-1 cm. This quality makes the material indispensable for insulating wooden floors. Other advantages include good sound insulation, which makes it unnecessary to lay additional soundproofing layers. When using isolon, it is necessary to lay it not end-to-end, but with overlapping strips; the resulting seams are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Isolon rolls

Penofol

The material is roll insulation new generation. This lightweight and easy-to-use material provides shielding that prevents the dispersion of radiant energy. Heat is retained due to the reflective layer, which makes the material especially popular for insulating floors between floors. Advantages include the ability to withstand heavy loads, low coefficient thermal conductivity and easy styling.

The thickness and flexibility of Penefol allows it to be used in difficult places

Comparing the properties and features of use, we can conclude that for wooden elements it is better to choose vapor-permeable materials, and in other cases use high-density insulation.

Procedure for installing thermal insulation

Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general rules for carrying out the work.

Video description

First of all, you need to understand what you can’t do – you can see this clearly in the video:

And the insulation process itself occurs as follows:

First you need to remove the baseboard and remove the old floor. However, you need to be careful not to buy new material.

Open floor beams are inspected for rotten elements that must be replaced. It is best to fasten new wooden parts using galvanized self-tapping screws that are not subject to corrosion.

It is best to attach the support beam from below the joist.

The rough flooring is made from an unedged board, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the joists or is 2 cm less than this parameter. The rough floor is not laid closely, and the beams need not be attached to the elements of this covering.

Houses located on plots with high level groundwater, very often suffer from high humidity with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, it is very important to protect floors with roofing felt or glassine. The waterproofing strips are laid overlapping, gluing the joints with tape.

The insulation is laid on top of the finished floor joists. In addition, another layer of waterproofing is required.

To create a ventilation gap, counter-battens are nailed on top of the insulation.

The final stage is laying the new flooring.

Final finishing of the finished floor

Whatever material or technology is used, first of all, you must always remember that a high-quality result can only be obtained if the work technology is strictly followed.