The floor is on the ground in industrial buildings. Multilayer concrete floor on the ground: construction features. How to make the correct floor structure on the ground
Externally similar to a slab foundation, the ground floor structure is less massive and cheaper to manufacture. Instead of two reinforcing mesh One wire is used; stiffeners are needed only under heavy partitions. Ground flooring is not load-bearing structure, is created exclusively for the installation of floor coverings.
Floor construction on the ground
Layer-by-layer scheme of the floor on the ground.
The classic scheme of a concrete floor on the ground contains a correct and complete pie of several layers with insulation:
- sand;
- geotextiles;
- crushed stone layer 0.4 m;
- footing;
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- a concrete screed with a wire mesh in its lower third, separated from the base, grillage or foundation by a damper tape around the perimeter.
Depending on the building layout, ground conditions and compliance with technology, the composition of the floor on the ground may change. For example, sand and geotextiles are not needed on coarse sandy soil.
Simplified diagram of a floor on the ground.
The footing can be replaced with a leveling layer of sand on top of crushed stone. To reduce the construction budget, the foundation is often not poured under the partitions, so stiffening ribs reinforced with reinforcement frames appear in the floors along the ground. In any case, before starting the production of a floating screed, it is necessary to prepare the existing foundation and plan it in a single horizontal level.
Preparing the base
Despite the fact that concrete is the strongest structural material, soil heaving and foundation subsidence are dangerous for screeds. Therefore, the arable layer in the building spot should be completely removed: black soil or gray soil is saturated with organic matter, which will rot, after which the entire pie will sag, unevenly in individual areas, cracks will open in the screed, or the concrete floor will collapse along the ground.
For communications, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope, bring them outside the foundation and near the walls inside the house.
Wiring of engineering systems.
Important! The correct ground floor is made in the form of a floating screed, separated from the elements of foundations and plinths by a damper layer. It is prohibited to rest the slab on protruding parts of these structures.
Separating layer
To avoid mutual mixing of the layers of the floor pie on the ground with the soil of the base, the pit is lined non-woven material(geotextile or dornite). The edges of the separating layer web are launched onto the side surface and pressed against bricks and wall blocks. Additional function geotextile is to prevent weed roots from growing through a concrete floor on the ground during operation.
Advice! Geotextiles with a density of 100 g/m2 or more can be laid under a floating screed, since the structure is considered not responsible, unlike slab foundations, which require needle-punched material with a density of 200 g/m2 or more.
Substrate
The concrete floor layer on the ground must rest on a hard layer to avoid soil subsidence. Therefore, depending on the ground conditions, non-metallic materials are used:
Natural soil (coarse sand or gravelly soil) is less commonly used. If the developer still has expanded clay after dismantling the building or this material is cheaper in the region than crushed stone, this material is also suitable as an underlying layer.
Filling the underlying layer with expanded clay.
Advice! Required condition is high-quality compaction of every 15 cm of the underlying layer with a vibrating plate or manual tamper. It is not recommended to spill sand with water; the material should be moistened with a watering can before backfilling and compaction.
Footing
The classic floor pie on concrete soil includes a concrete screed made from a thin B7.5 mixture. It is necessary to solve several problems:
However, to reduce the construction budget, the concrete base is replaced with other technologies:
Important! The footing is not reinforced, but is necessarily separated from the elements of the foundation or plinth along the perimeter by a damping layer (pieces of polystyrene foam on an edge or a special tape).
Waterproofing and insulation
At the next stage, the cake must be insulated from moisture, prevent heat loss in the floors and preserve geothermal heat under the building. For this, waterproofing and insulation are used. Their relative position inside the structure pie is as follows:
The main mistake developers make is laying a vapor barrier over expanded polystyrene:
- the air temperature in the room is always higher than in the ground under the screed (true for heated rooms);
- therefore, when laying flooring that does not have vapor barrier properties (floorboards, parquet, cork covering), the direction of steam will always be from top to bottom;
- the vapor barrier membrane will accumulate moisture on the surface, inside the cake, at the insulation/concrete interface;
- the screed will collapse and the wire mesh inside will corrode.
Apart from an unreasonable increase in the construction budget, this scheme does not provide any advantages. The accumulation of harmful gas - radon under floors on the ground is impossible, since there is no underground in this design.
The following materials can be used as waterproofing:
- built-up rolls - Technonikol, Gidrostekloizol, Bikrost or roofing felt;
- film - made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene;
- membranes – have high density and strength, can be laid without making a concrete base.
- Admix mixture - an additive is added to concrete during mixing, construction material becomes waterproof;
- Penetron - the floor on the ground is processed AFTER concreting, the effect is similar to the previous one.
For these waterproofing materials, a footing is also not needed.
Of all existing insulation materials the best option for the floor on the ground, high-density extruded polystyrene foam of the XPS or EPS grades (for example, Penoplex) is used. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the operating region, ranging from 5 to 20 cm. The sheets are laid with mixed joints in adjacent rows, large gaps filled with polyurethane foam with similar properties.
Damper layer
Floors on the ground are prohibited from being rigidly connected to the elements of the plinth or foundation, so along the perimeter it is necessary to install polystyrene foam strips on the edge, pressing them against the vertical enclosing structures. However, more often a special damping tape made of latex, rubber or foamed polymers with an adhesive layer is glued to the walls.
Damper layer of the floor on the ground.
Important! The height of the cutting layer should be slightly higher than the thickness of the floating screed. After the concrete has hardened, the material is cut off with a knife, and the junction points are decorated with plinths after laying the floor covering.
Floating screed
The main nuances of concreting a floor on the ground are:
- It is recommended to fill in one step;
- areas larger than 50 m2 (relevant for studio rooms, sheds and garages) should be separated by a special corner to create expansion joints;
- internal load-bearing walls and heavy partitions must be erected on a separate foundation;
- partitions made of gypsum plasterboard/gypsum plasterboard must be partially erected so that when the screed dries, moisture is not absorbed into the plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheet, destroying these materials;
- It is preferable to pour along plaster beacons or profiles for gypsum plasterboard systems installed in a single horizontal level on quick-drying putty solutions;
- screed thickness 5 – 20 cm, depending on operational loads and the planned floor covering, as well as the need to install underfloor heating pipes.
Partial construction of plasterboard partitions is carried out using the following technology:
- installation of racks and horizontal jumpers;
- covering them at the joints of the floor on the ground with strips of plasterboard 10–20 cm high along the entire length.
For flooring on the ground, you can use ready-mixed concrete B12.5 and higher; the filler is gravel, dolomite or granite crushed stone. The screed is reinforced at the lower level with wire mesh.
Important! If the technology is broken, heavy partitions are planned to be supported on a screed; in the places where they pass, stiffening ribs are needed, which are created by analogy with the USHP slab (insulated Swedish floating foundation slab).
Floor reinforcement on the ground
Industry produces wire mesh welded VR according to GOST 8478 from 5 mm wire with a square cell of 10 - 20 cm. Do-it-yourself knitting on site is more expensive due to the high consumption of knitting wire and increased labor intensity. The grids are laid using the following technology:
Unlike reinforcing mesh, wire cards have much less rigidity; walking on them when laying the mixture is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the following methods are used:
- ladders - halves of bricks are placed in the mesh cells, on which boards rest, which are moved along with spacers as the structure is ready;
- “paths” - concrete is piled from the entrance of the room to the far corner, after which you can walk along these paths without shifting the grid.
IN small rooms Grid maps are usually used suitable size. If the room has complex configuration, additional pieces need to be cut. In this case and when reinforcing large areas, the overlap of cards/rolls is at least one cell.
Stiffening ribs under the partitions
To create stiffening ribs under the partitions, intermittent laying of extruded polystyrene foam or its top layer is used. Reinforcing frames made of square clamps (smooth reinforcement 4–6 mm) and longitudinal rods (“corrugated” 8–12 mm) are placed into the resulting voids.
Reinforcement of stiffeners.
Heated floor contours
To reduce energy consumption in the heating boiler and increase living comfort, heated floors are used. Their contours can be embedded in the screed by laying the pipes directly on the reinforcing mesh.
Warm floor inside the screed.
To connect to the collectors, the underfloor heating pipes are routed outside near the wall. In this place they must be covered with damper tape. Similar technology expansion joint necessary for all communications passing through the screed (heating risers, hot water supply/hot water supply).
Thus, the composition of the floor on the ground can be modified depending on the construction budget and specific operational and soil conditions.
If the house plan does not provide for the construction of its underground part (basement), then the most profitable solution There will be a floor arrangement directly on the surface of the earth. By observing all norms and standards, you can build a high-quality site on your own. This is, of course, far from the cheapest and easy option, but everything is, of course, relative. In this case, the use of special equipment and very expensive materials will not be required, which makes the process easier and cheaper.
What are the advantages of the correct floor pie on the ground and does it have any disadvantages?
Before you start studying the structure of a proper floor pie on the ground, you need to familiarize yourself with its advantages and disadvantages. So to obvious advantages can be attributed:
1. If built well, it will reliably protect the room from the penetration of cold from the ground.
2. If you wish, you can significantly reduce costs by choosing budget options insulation materials. This will reduce the quality of the structure, but not very significantly.
3. When performing such work, there is no need to make complex technical calculations, which are necessary in other more complex cases.
filling concrete mixture for finishing the rough layer 
insulation with polystyrene foam
4. On a site built according to this principle, it is very easy to install a “warm floor” system.
5. This design has a very high performance sound insulation.
The disadvantages of proper ground pie include the following:
1. If the sum of all the heights of the levels is incorrectly calculated, then such a design will significantly reduce the height of the premises.
2. Such a system cannot be built in very close proximity groundwater to the surface of the earth, as well as on unstable soils.
3. Dismantling, if necessary, is a very labor-intensive and expensive task.
Our article about how and what to install a wooden floor in a house will be useful. all year round it was warm and dry.
We make the correct floor pie on the ground in compliance with all necessary insulation standards
the right pie floors on the ground
In order to avoid problems such as the parquet becoming damp during operation (pulling moisture from below), household members often getting sick (constant cold in the house), and the furniture being skewed (the platform on which they stand is “damp”), it is necessary to be very meticulous in recreating all layers of the correct floor pie on the ground. To obtain a dry, warm, smooth and strong surface, proceed as follows:
1. On average, at the first stage (removal of the top layer of soil) they go about 50 cm deep. The thickness can vary depending on how saturated the ground under the building is with water, how low the temperature can drop in winter, whether heated floors will be installed around the perimeter of the first floor and much more. We will build on average statistical indicators, which can be easily adjusted to individual needs.
2. After collecting excess soil, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the surface. And then carefully compact the bottom of the recess that you dug. It is almost impossible to do quality work manually; to save money, it is better to use a vibrating plate.
3. After this, the first mound of sand should go. Its height can be from 4 cm to 8 cm. In our case, this figure is maximum. After leveling the top layer of the embankment, it is compacted.
laying reinforcing mesh 
screed
4. The second layer is a mound of small stones. Crushed stone or gravel is suitable for these purposes. Tamping is not needed at this stage, unlike leveling the layer. Its height is similar to the height of the previous layer.
5. Next, the concrete mixture is poured to make the rough layer. It can be made either with or without reinforcement, but it is better, of course, not to save money. Laying it down reinforced mesh and fill it with the mixture. The level of the solution rises 10 cm above the surface of the previous layer (under certain conditions it can be reduced to 5 cm).
6. Now it is necessary to protect the layers that will be laid later from moisture penetration into them. We spread the insulating material (membrane or film) over the entire surface; it should be laid not only on the site itself, but also on the bottom of the walls adjacent to it. The overlap between the wall and one canvas onto another is 20-25 cm.
8. Moisture insulation sheets are spread on top. This is done in order to thermal insulation material not deteriorated not only from the penetration of water from the ground, but also from the floor surface (in the event of a flood, for example).
9. Last layer– screed. Now reinforcement is not just desirable, but mandatory. The thickness of the final layer is about 10 cm. How to properly make a screed yourself.
It is difficult to build such a structure only physically, since the work is heavy and labor-intensive. IN certain cases the use of this particular option is absolutely justified, especially considering that it has an order of magnitude fewer disadvantages than advantages.
When building a house, the question of installing a floor in the basement arises. This type of do-it-yourself work has its own characteristics, so before you make concrete floors on the ground yourself in a private house, you need to study some of the features of the event and the technology for performing the work.
Application area
The installation of floors in the basement is limited by several factors, such as:
- foundation (its type);
- ground water level;
- purpose of the room.
Most often, basements have buildings built on supports such as tape and slab, but when used monolithic slab, it serves as a ceiling and the installation of a floor on the ground is not required. The pie is made as for an interfloor ceiling, with the only difference being that they pay attention to the purpose of the room and, based on this, take measures to insulate the structure. Floors on the ground are made using strip foundation made of concrete.
Floor installation in the basement
The groundwater level is essential. If it is high enough, there is a possibility of flooding of the room (especially in spring period), therefore it is better to abandon the arrangement of exploitable areas in the basement.
The design of the floor depends on the purpose of the basement floor.
If it is unheated, it is enough to leave a rough version - compacted sand. If the purpose changes, you can always make a full-fledged floor pie. If you plan to install a strip foundation in a private house ground floor or a heated basement will require another design that can prevent heat leakage into the ground. To do this, they arrange a full-fledged concrete floor pie with insulation.
From this we can conclude that the need to use technology arises when the following conditions are simultaneously met:
- strip foundation;
- low groundwater level;
- heated and operated volume of the basement, basement or first floor in the absence of the first two.
The installation of floors on the ground for the first floor is required in the absence of a basement and, accordingly, a basement floor, which in a normal situation serves as a floor. The question is also relevant for outbuildings and garages.
Technology and instructions
Manufacturing technology concrete slab flooring in the basement can be divided into several stages:
- preparatory activities;
- insulation;
- subfloor ( cement strainer).
We can stop there. If the earth serves instead of a basement floor, and it is planned to install a floor on the first floor, wooden floors are laid on the ground. To do this, all the above measures are carried out, and the next stage is wood flooring.
Preparatory stage
It is designed to prepare the soil for the insulated screed to be laid on it. In this case, do the work with your own hands in the following order:
- Marking. Determine the floor level of the basement or first floor. This mark will be the top of the floor structure. That is, exactly the surface on which they will walk. The vertical reference point will be the entrance threshold in a private house or basement. The pre-designed thickness of the concrete slab layers is subtracted from this mark. After this, two marks are made on the strip foundation along the entire perimeter: the bottom and top of the floor. Marking can be done with a level ( laser level), this will significantly increase accuracy and speed up the process.
- Preparing the foundation for further work. The base for the concrete floor slab in the basement will be compacted soil. It is compacted by vibration or using various weights. For the first one you need a vibrating platform. The second option assumes the presence of a massive device with a wide bottom surface (for example, a log with a board nailed to it).
- Preparation. Preparation for a concrete slab with a strip foundation consists of backfilling over the entire area of the basement. For its manufacture, materials such as gravel or sand can be used. It is important to note that sand for making the base should be taken of coarse or medium fraction; the use of fine sand is unacceptable. The thickness of the backfill is on average 30-50 cm, depending on the heaving of the base soil. The function of the cushion is drainage and uniform transfer of load to the underlying layers. Laying is done in layers with compaction. The compaction methods are the same as in the previous paragraph. For sand, you can also use water pouring. The surface of the concrete slab pad is leveled and the next stage is started.
- A very important part of the work with a strip foundation is the installation of reliable waterproofing. The material used is ordinary polyethylene film high density or more modern waterproofing membranes. The screed is poured after the waterproofing film is laid out over the entire floor area in the basement, overlapping the walls above the level of the finished floor. All joints of the material are overlapped and taped. Manufacturers produce special connecting tapes for membranes.
After this, the base is prepared for execution further stages works
Insulation
Floor insulation according to concrete base penoplex An important point for a heated basement or first floor floor. To do the work yourself, you will need to choose the type of insulation and its thickness. It is important that the insulation of the slab has high strength and rigidity and does not wrinkle under load. Otherwise, the cement screed on top of it will crack, and the surface of the slab of the entire floor pie will become uneven.
Thermal insulation can be installed using the following materials:
- expanded clay gravel (the required thickness depends on the climatic region, on average 30-50 cm, has low thermal insulation properties);
- polystyrene foam (thickness approximately 100 mm; foam plastic will require the installation of a particularly strong reinforced screed, since it is not very durable);
- extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, thickness like foam plastic - 100 mm, has increased strength and moisture resistance).
For increase waterproofing characteristics and evenness of the base is strongly recommended before laying insulation (under waterproofing film) pour a layer of “skinny” loaf (brand B7.5). No reinforcement is performed. A concrete footing thickness of 6-10 cm is sufficient.
Subfloor
Installation of cement-sand screed for subfloor A cement-sand screed will serve as this coating in a private house. It is performed on top of thermal insulation material.
For increase strength characteristics slabs provide reinforcement. As materials for reinforcement works a mesh of rods with a diameter of 3-4 mm with a cell size of 100 mm is suitable. You can use both steel and plastic fittings, but with probability high loads Preference is given to proven steel.
Pouring the floor involves laying the mesh directly on the insulation or on supports, it all depends on the thickness of the concrete layer. If the slab is significantly thick, it is recommended to place the grids on supports.
The rough layer is poured from concrete of a higher strength grade than the preparation for insulation. A high grade of flooring in a residential building is not required; B20 concrete can be used to ensure particularly durable flooring. But on average B15 is enough. The screed is required to be at least 5 centimeters thick, but it all depends on the characteristics of the soil. If the foundation is installed on highly heaving foundations with poor characteristics, the screed thickens.
To ensure evenness of the filling, special beacons are used. They are leveled to the level of the floor mark (the top one on the foundation, made during the preparatory stage).
Completion of work
When making a floor on the ground in a residential building, it is important to remember the curing time of the concrete mixture. Cement-sand mortar reaches full strength within 4 weeks (may vary with extreme changes in humidity and temperature). After pouring, wait for the hardening time and begin installing the clean floor ( flooring). If the foundation limits the room that will be used for economic needs, then there is no need to clean the floor.
When planning to make a heated floor in a house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.
The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all the layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is compacted, there will be movement. He lay simply, without any load. If you lay a heated floor pie on top, and it weighs a lot, subsidence will begin and cracks will appear. It may even tear the elements of the heated floor. Then all the money will be thrown away. That’s why experts advise first making a subfloor according to all the rules, and then laying a water floor on top. It's much more reliable this way.
Yes, many have a heated floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful compaction, everything can stand quite well.
First of all, we determine the level to which the soil needs to be removed. The soil must be removed. If the layer of humus or plant residues is not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell.” Therefore, whether you do a subfloor or not, you still need to remove everything unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers above it with it. The underlying rocks are denser, firstly because they experience greater loads, and secondly, because there are fewer living creatures and microorganisms living there.
The entire pie of a heated floor on the ground can take 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking with zero level- where your finished floor will be located. You mark it, and then consider how much you need to go deeper. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.
The correct design of a heated floor on the ground is as follows:
- Take off fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully and verified using a level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
- A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand can be used for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
- A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact it for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
- Pre-screed. There are two options:
- Spill rubble and sand liquid solution(sand + cement in proportion 2:1).
- Pour in the rough screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7 cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh made of 3 mm metal wire, with a cell of 10*10 cm. This subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand significant loads.
- After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the soil is dry, it is usually a plastic film, preferably 200 mn in two layers.
- Expanded polystyrene boards (glue the joints with tape so that the solution does not flow).
- A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
- The mounting system for the heated floor and the heating tubes, cables, etc.
- Heated floor screed, preferably reinforced.
The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating layer on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the greater. In the south it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north you go, the more massive the layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual tampers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.
Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in slabs, its density not lower than 35 kg/m 3. For northern regions it could be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of slabs. And lay them so that the seams of the bottom layer overlap the slab lying on top. Tape the joints of each layer with tape.
To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work on the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire heated floor structure. You need to put the same polystyrene foam in slabs around the perimeter. In general, the idea for hydro- and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to insulate your floor from everything except the air in the room. Then the heating will be economical and the rooms will be warm.
Choice of thermal insulation - key moment in the organization of heated floors
Process technology at high groundwater levels
If groundwater is located high, correct sequence layers aren't everything. We need to drain the water somehow.
If the depth of laying the heated floor layers is lower than the ground water level, drainage is necessary. For it, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a water drainage system. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.
When laying thermal insulation boards, their joints must be taped to prevent the solution from leaking into the cracks.
The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. There are usually three layers, but more are possible. We lay a layer of geotextile on compacted sand or soil with crushed stone. This modern material, which will allow water to pass down and prevent mixing different materials. It is not damaged by insects and animals and has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally level out the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.
At the same stage, you need to simultaneously take care of the hydro- and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. Can be used for these purposes bitumen mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnation. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is lined with polystyrene foam slabs.
Then there are layers of sand and crushed stone, and poured on them rough screed. Spill liquid cement-sand composition in this case it is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it has dried, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. At high level groundwater it is better to use not polyethylene, but fused waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.
Next, all the layers, as recommended earlier: a heat insulator, a water barrier with a metallized coating, and fasteners with (or, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the one used.
Results
Warm floors in a house on the ground - quite complex design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is necessary. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, as a last resort, get by by compacting the layers.
A floor on the ground, it would seem, is quite simple to implement, however, even when installing such a simple floor, a lot of errors can occur. We offer you a list of the most typical flaws in performing this work and methods for eliminating them.
Remove the fertile layer
Sometimes haste, and sometimes neglect of the quality of work, forces builders to lay floor components directly on a soft fertile layer of soil, that is, humus. The consequences of such negligence will make themselves felt in the very first years of operation of the building. The floor will begin to settle, and cracks will appear at the junctions of the floor and walls. Thus, before laying the floor, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer over the entire area of the future building and level the bottom of the pit.
Pay due attention to soil compaction
Insufficient compaction of the floor substrate at the stage backfill It can also cause sagging floors and the appearance of cracks, because the substrate tends to sag over time under its own weight. In order to avoid such troubles, it is necessary to carefully compact each layer of the substrate, paying maximum attention to this process. If you are not sure that you can compact the soil yourself, it is better to seek help from specialists.
Do not use construction waste as a base
There is always a certain amount of waste on the site, including construction waste. Naturally, zealous owner I wonder if I could use it as a filler for installing a floor on the ground? Theoretically, this is possible, however, it is worth remembering that the substrate is made of pieces construction waste- Not best way out. Large fragments are quite difficult to compact and place so that there are as few voids as possible between them. And voids guarantee subsidence and the appearance of cracks in the future.
Instead of using improper material as a substrate, it is better to construct it from a special sand and gravel mixture, which compacts easily.
Pay attention to floor waterproofing
It is very important to ensure complete waterproofing of the floor pie from moisture contained in the soil. To do this, use double waterproofing, which is laid as carefully as possible, keeping the overlap width between the insulation sheets at 10-15 cm. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will penetrate into the floor cake, which can cause cracking concrete screed and other troubles, including the appearance of mold on the floor. And certainly moisture penetration will not improve the condition of the heated floor, especially if it is electric. So, at this stage of work, control over execution should be as strict as possible.
Combined waterproofing of foundation wall and floor
Another important point associated with waterproofing floors on the ground - combining it with waterproofing walls. Don't believe the "experts" who claim that this is only true for basement floors. If you do not combine these two types of waterproofing, moisture will quickly find its way into your home.
Improper installation of waterproofing can lead to damage not only to the floor, but also to the external and external walls of the building. inside, foundation walls. Peeling of plaster, mold, cracks - all these are consequences of damp materials. The ability of water to seep into the smallest cracks you leave for it cannot be underestimated. Therefore, it is necessary to put reliable barriers in its path.
Floor waterproofing on the ground must be laid on the waterproofing of a wall or foundation wall with an overlap of at least 20 cm wide, and securely taped.
Avoid cold bridges
When laying a floor on the ground, as in the process of other construction work, it is important to prevent the formation of cold bridges. Therefore, to insulate the floor on the ground, it is better to use polystyrene foam boards with profiled edges. They fit tightly one to the other, and even if the solution flows into the cracks, it will cause much less damage, since it will not reach the concrete screed. If you use insulation with smooth edges, you should lay a construction film on it, and then you will be sure that cold bridges will not appear.
Lay out communications correctly
Although modern heating pipes are already thermally insulated with a layer special material, it is important to consider that hot water, which will flow through them, contributes to the expansion of the pipes, as well as the heating of the material around them, and therefore, heat exchange with it. To eliminate the unpleasant consequences of this effect (for example, cooling water), it is advisable to lay the pipes on a layer of thermal insulation, and not under it. If there is enough pipe large diameter exceeding the thickness of the thermal insulation, it is worth planning special channels for them, which should be organized before the insulation is laid.
Lay damper tape around the perimeter
Of all the floor components, the screed is the most mobile, since it is constantly subject to fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and in addition, it experiences purely mechanical loads. In this regard, it is always necessary to leave a gap of about 2 cm between the floor and the wall of the building. Otherwise, when the floor pie moves or expands, it will put pressure on the wall, which will inevitably lead to unpleasant consequences: cracking of the walls, deformation of the floor.
Choose the right floor thickness
It must be remembered that the thickness of the screed is selected based on the expected loads on the floor. In rooms where the load does not exceed the household level, a screed of up to 4 cm is sufficient. In the garage, where the floor is subject to pressure from heavy vehicle, a screed with a thickness of 4 to 10 cm is laid. Also, the weight of the partitions that are being built in this room is also important. Thick screed is intended for rooms with partitions made of heavy materials - blocks, bricks. Thin - where the partitions are made of light frame structures or made of wood.
Like any other stage of construction, the organization of the floor on the ground requires extreme attention to detail. After all, these little things make up the successful implementation of your project. Errors and omissions will lead to more big problems, since any building is one system, an organism, if you like. All that remains is to wish you a smooth floor!
