How to make a gable roof for a garage. How to make a garage roof with your own hands - instructions for installing a gable roof. High snow load rates
In everyday vocabulary words "roof", "coating" And "roof" act as synonyms. However, in architecture and construction these meanings are distinguished by considering the roof to be the upper structure that protects the building from weather phenomena such as rain, snow, and strong wind.
The roof underneath is made up of a number of required elements, presented depending on its type, in full or in part:
- rafters;
- rafter beams;
- slopes (valleys);
- ribs;
- skate;
- outer covering.
The outer covering, in essence, is roof, since it covers the roof slopes with waterproof material, forming a protective flooring.
Interesting: In sunny Egypt, where there is no need to protect the building from precipitation, roofs are not erected quite deliberately: without a roof, a house is considered unfinished and is not subject to property taxes.
Garage - photo of the roof:
As you can see in the photo, the garage roof should be durable And sustainable. We'll talk about this below.
Kinds
According to their own design features there are several types of roofs. First of all, by the presence of stingrays:
- flat;
- pitched.
Flat roofs for a garage they require a continuous elastic “carpet” made of bitumen-polymer materials that is tolerant of temperature changes. The support for such a roof is the walls of the building, and the base is slabs or. On flat roof sometimes they have solariums, hanging gardens. In this case, the roof is considered exploited.
Pitched roofs are formed by slopes at an angle from 10⁰ to 60⁰, resting on the rafter system, and are:
This could be a workshop, storage room, office or a guest room. It is distinguished from an attic by the height of the covering: not less than 1.5 meters. This is a rather expensive roof project that will require heat, hydro and vapor barrier, non-standard double glazing for windows, a sharp bend rafter pair, which reduces the strength of the structure.
Only pitched roofs exists 8 types, and each of them has its own modifications depending on the angle of slope and the size of the overhangs. The most popular ones for the garage are: single-pitched And gable.
Garage roof
Taking into account the force and atmospheric effects on the roof, its coating must meet the following requirements:
- strength;
- sustainability;
- tightness;
- resistance to moisture, cracking, deformation due to changes in t⁰;
- UV resistance;
- penetration protection.
These conditions are met by a number of roofs common in domestic construction:
- (rolled - roofing felt, mastic);
- sheet (corrugated asbestos cement, steel, copper, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, ondulin);
- small-piece materials (asbestos-cement tiles, tiles, shingles).
The main criteria for choosing roofing material are:
- roof design features;
- own weight of roofing material;
- climatic operating conditions;
- location of the garage (relative to housing);
- resistance to aggressive influences;
- terms of expected operation;
- compliance with the building style;
- value for money.
Reference: Ideal material for roofing No. Giving preference to some of its qualities, you need to be ready to sacrifice others that are less significant for a particular building.
Types of garage roofs - photos: 
Material characteristics
- polycarbonate slate - colored translucent sheets;
- fiber cement - without the use of asbestos (cellulose filler);
- keramoplast - modification of slate made of composite materials;
- roofing profiled sheet obtained by cold rolling.
Natural slate has many advantages:
- resistance to external influences(temperature, chemical, biological);
- durability (up to 40 years) and low thermal conductivity;
- economical and easy to install;
- used when slopes are inclined 25-35⁰.
Disadvantages are worth special attention:
- fragility;
- moisture saturation;
- unsafe for human health.
Requires protective coating acrylic paint with anti-corrosion composition. For metal roof There are standard additional elements on sale: cornices, gutters, gable overhangs, ridge corner, drainpipes.
Leakage: causes and elimination
The main trouble that a garage roof can cause is leak. There may be several reasons:
- exposure to abnormal natural phenomena;
- during the period of operation, the strength resource is completely used up;
- there were defects during the installation of the roof;
- neglect of the stage in the construction of the roof affected;
- inconsistency between the installation technology and the roofing material used;
- low-quality covering material;
- mechanical damage when clearing the roof of snow and ice.
Leakage It is important to identify wet spots and mold as soon as they appear, without waiting for jet streams. First of all, the places of joints and connections are checked, then damage to the integrity of the roof (cracks, chips, holes). Remove blockages from fallen leaves in the corners of the valley, which can accumulate moisture.
It will depend on the characteristics of the roofing material and the amount of damage. Soft and small-piece materials are easier to fragmentary repairs. The scope of repairs to sheet and panel coverings will depend on the complexity of the damage.
Important: When preparing a garage roof drawing and design, it is necessary to include in the purchase building materials additionally 10% (in excess of the estimated amount) for unforeseen expenses. These are the ones who will help you out in case of a leak.
A gable roof for a garage is used quite often in construction. Today we will tell you how to do gable roof garage.
This is not a clever design, the price of which is quite affordable. Also in the article you can watch a video in which you will see all the stages of construction. You can also see individual moments in the photo.
Types of gable roofs
A gable roof for a garage combines efficiency and reliability. The best option is with an angle of inclination of the slopes of thirty-five to forty degrees.
Stages in the construction of a rafter system
The construction of a garage roof is conventionally divided into several stages:
- If we take as a basis that the garage box has already been made, then on the ground floor it is necessary to prepare a foundation on which the entire rafter system will subsequently rest. A beam can be used as such a support.
As a rule, its cross-section is ten by ten centimeters. Beams must be laid for waterproofing. As insulating material You can use roofing felt.
Attention: It should be noted that if the walls of the garage are made of wood, then there is no need to lay additional beams, because the upper vent will act as a support for the rafter systems.
- The second stage in construction is the construction of the rack. They are installed on the upper crown or on the beam.
- A beam with a cross section of 10x10 centimeters is usually used for racks. When installing them, you must remember that the maximum distance between them should not exceed two meters.
- The optimal distance is considered to be ninety centimeters. The construction of such rafter systems will lead to large financial costs, but such a structure will be more reliable.
Attention: Make sure that the racks are vertical. A level or plumb line will come to the rescue with this. It is these elements that will later become the frame of the walls.
- In addition to all this, the racks must be located in the same plane so that the wall is even along its entire length and vertical.
- The racks are attached to the beam with metal brackets or using a tenon joint. In order for them to be constantly in a vertical position during the construction of the roof, they must be strengthened from below with slopes, which have floor beams as their own base.
- The next step is to make the cross beam. For this, a 10 by 10 cm beam is used. It is attached to two opposite and opposing risers at the highest point.
- Fastening is done in any way that is more convenient. At the very end of this work, you will get a structure called a rafter frame. This frame determines the dimensions of the attic, that is, its height, length, and width.
- The next step is the construction of the Mauerlat. This roof element is similar to a beam that supports the rafters. The Mauerlat is made from boards with a thickness of forty millimeters.
- Installation is carried out to the rafter frame along the entire length of the slope. It acts as a support for the rafters, and also gives greater rigidity to all sub-rafter frames, holding them together. They also transfer the load that the rafter system puts on the walls.
- In order to prevent moisture from entering and getting wet, a layer of waterproofing is placed under the Mauerlat (see). Since the Mauerlat is designed to impart rigidity to the entire rafter system, for even better stability, it is secured with annealed copper wire. For a wire, a thickness of three to four millimeters will be sufficient.
- Once you have prepared the base for the rafters, you can begin to install it. To ensure everything is done correctly, do not forget to apply markings. It is applied on both sides and shows the installation step of the rafter legs.
Attention: As mentioned above, the most optimal step is a distance of up to one hundred and twenty cm. The extreme support is done first. It is installed in such a way that the upper point of contact is projected to the middle between the corresponding risers. This point should not be beyond the pediment line.
- The material from which the rafters will be made can be 10x15 beams, and they are installed on the edge. You can also use a board fifteen centimeters wide and fifty millimeters thick. At the same time, there should be no knots on it.
- After the outermost pair of rafter legs has been installed, you can begin installing the second pair. Then a twine is pulled between them, which marks the plane of the slope. This makes it easier to install other pairs of legs.
After you with my own hands install the entire rafter system, all pairs are connected at the top point, that is, near the ridge. To do this, simply nail boards to them.Attention: It should be noted that if the length of the rafters is more than 8 meters, then a ridge beam is installed on top, which becomes the so-called support for the rafter pairs.
Installation of reinforcements and plumbs
The installation of plumbs begins after the rafter system is ready.
A filly is a piece of board that is nailed to the leg from below, thereby forming a visor:
- You can also make a plumb line in another way, for this rafter legs extend a little lower. But, if any rafters begin to rot, they will have to be replaced. To do this, you will have to remove the entire roof covering.
- If the filly has rotted, then partial dismantling is carried out, and in some cases, you can do without it altogether. Their installation is carried out according to the principle of rafters. First, the outer four pieces are attached. Then I pull the twine and install all the other parts.
- A board is nailed onto the fillets along the entire wall, which will provide protection from snow and moisture during bad weather conditions.
- The next step is to strengthen. It should be done where the windows will be located.
- All risers are reinforced with transverse beams, and this is how the window frame is created. Such bars will serve as lower and upper supports. At this stage, the roof skeleton is considered completely complete.
- Now you need to nail the sheathing boards. The pitch is selected based on the roof covering (see). Since there will be a garage under such a roof, it is best to insulate the roof.
Insulation of garage attic roofs
Insulation must begin with the installation of the sheathing, which is located below. It is nailed in increments of fifteen to thirty centimeters. It is best to use mineral wool or polystyrene foam for insulation.
Similar material is sold in rolls (cotton wool) or slabs:
- Insulation material must be laid on top of the bottom sheathing. Making thermal insulation with your own hands is not difficult. But here there are some nuances that are worth considering.
- Firstly, you need to pay attention to ensuring that the insulation fits tightly to the rafters. If you use cotton wool, it is better to ensure that it overlaps.
- The cotton wool is attached to the batten using a stapler. Then waterproofing material is laid on the insulation. As a rule, the membrane has several sides: one of them allows moisture to pass through, and the other does not.
Attention: It is necessary to carefully ensure that the side that allows moisture to pass through is located on the insulation. The moisture thus escapes into the external environment.
- The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with staples. Mounted from below vapor barrier material. It prevents the vapors coming from the garage from getting inside the insulation. If an amount of moisture accumulates in the insulation, which is even a couple of percent of its weight, then the insulation efficiency will drop by fifty percent.
Interior decoration
After the insulation has been completed, the interior finishing begins:
- The entire rafter system inside can be sheathed with plywood, and then with finishing decorative material. As for the roof, metal tiles and slate are suitable for such rafters.
- As you have already understood, building an attic gable roof for your garage, which is located on your summer cottage, is a fairly simple task, although it requires some skills and time. The main thing is consistent compliance with all stages of work and accuracy, without which you can’t go anywhere.
- It should also be noted that in order for the wooden elements of the garage roof to last a long time, they should be soaked in advance with a special antiseptic.
Now there are instructions and if you follow them, then the gable roof with your own hands will be reliable, it will not allow moisture to pass through during snowfalls or rains, as well as wind, reliably protecting it from other external factors.
How to do gable roof DIY garage? You should first select the roof structure that is most suitable and calculate how much weight it will have on the load-bearing walls.
A do-it-yourself gable roof (photo below), even on a garage, should be installed according to all the rules, taking into account the roofing material and some other subtleties. You can find out further how to make a gable roof for a garage with your own hands. Here are the details
Why gable
Before how to make a gable garage roof with your own hands, it’s not superfluous to figure out why it’s so good. Despite the fact that a pitched roof is easy to install and does not require a lot of material for its construction, car owners are increasingly installing a gable roof. Why is this happening?
The pitched roof has significant drawback, which is reflected in the state of the iron horse itself. It cannot withstand sudden temperature changes. After just a few seasons, the vapor barrier is broken, resulting in condensation settling inside the garage.
Unlike a pitched roof, a do-it-yourself gable roof (video attached) has the following advantages:
- it is moisture resistant;
- snow and other precipitation do not accumulate on the roof;
- evenly warmed by the sun;
- thanks to the installation of additional ceilings, it is protected from roof leaks;
- during installation, an attic space is created, convenient for storing tools and other things;
- by increasing the length of the hood, improved natural ventilation is ensured;
- easy to monitor the condition of the roof;
- you can choose any roofing materials;
- the roof looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
To install a gable garage roof with your own hands, you do not need to use special equipment. It is enough to make simple calculations and follow all stages of construction.
Determining the angle of inclination
Before compiling construction estimate consumption of materials, you should decide on the level of slope of the future roof. This is important because different regions of Russia have different climatic conditions.
Depending on the level of precipitation, the height of the snow cover, and the operational capabilities of the material itself, the angle of inclination of a gable roof in difficult climatic conditions should be:
- not less than 45 degrees,
- in conditions where a strong wind constantly blows - 12 degrees,
- in central Russia – 20 degrees.
The slope of the roofing surface is also more important. The smaller it is, the greater the likelihood that the wind will rip off the roof. How larger angle slope, the greater the load on it. In addition, with critical roof slopes, water can flow into the roof structure. Each roofing material has its own angle of inclination, which must be taken into account when installing the roof.
Mauerlat installation
Garage roof installation includes the following steps:
- Mauerlat installation;
- installation rafter system;
- fastening the sheathing;
- installation of roofing.
One of the most important stages is the installation of the Mauerlat. The strength and reliability of the entire roof structure depends on its strength. Mauerlat is not installed only if the garage is built from wooden material. In this case, the role of the base for the rafters is performed by the upper crown. Upon completion of installation, it is strengthened as much as possible.
The Mauerlat is the base for the rafters. It can be made from beams or metal pipes. It is advisable to choose pine beams without knots, well dried. If the material quality conditions are not met, cracks may appear in the Mauerlat in the future, resulting in a distortion of the entire roof structure. The wooden beam is installed on waterproofing. It is lined along the entire perimeter of the top row of bricks or, if the garage is made of wood, along the top crown.
Mauerlat is attached to anchor bolts, which are pre-installed into the walls. Holes are drilled in the beams with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the anchors. The bars are put on the anchors, after which the rubber washer is tightened with a water nut. The stage of fastening the rafter system is no less important. To know how to properly make a gable roof with your own hands, you need this process put it on the shelves.
Installation of the rafter system
How to make a gable roof for a garage with your own hands? You should take the installation of the rafter system with all responsibility.
At the first stage of construction of the rafter system, the question is decided whether there will be an ordinary attic or attic floor. For the attic, the rafter system is pre-strengthened. To do this, use racks. They are attached to the Mauerlat to give rigidity to the entire structure. The racks must be positioned strictly vertically. Small bars (racks) are attached to the mauerlat or upper rim using metal brackets or the tongue-and-groove method. In this case, the distance between them should not exceed 90 cm.
If there is an attic space under the roof, rafters are immediately installed on the mauerlat. To do this, the base into which the rafter leg is attached using the chosen method is cut in increments of 120 cm. The method of attaching the rafters can be different. Rafters are usually placed so that their lower edge overhangs the building by half a meter. But in some cases, the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat with their lower edges. In order to create an overhang of the roof, additional boards (fillies) are applied to the rafters.
Some craftsmen believe that fastening rafters with a “filly” is the best way. If the roof slope begins to rot, the damaged bars can be easily disconnected and replaced with new ones. If the roof overhang is represented by rafters, you will have to disassemble the entire roof. To completely make a gable roof for a garage with your own hands at the stage of constructing the rafter system, you should pay attention to the ridge part. Long rafters are cut along the upper edge, and a lath is placed along the top.
But if the rafters are too short (less than 8 m), a solid wide beam should be placed on the ridge part. It performs the function of additional strengthening and fixing of the rafters. A waterproofing film is laid on the finished rafters. On top of it, slats are nailed under the main sheathing. Fastening them is mandatory. This ensures free ventilation between the roof structure and the roofing material. If difficulties arise when installing the roof structure, do not build by eye. It's better to order roofing in a competent specialized company.
Installation of sheathing
At the stage of installing the sheathing? In this case, you first need to decide what kind of roofing will be installed.
Depending on the type of roof, sparse or continuous sheathing. The first option is installed for solid shaped roofing coverings (under metal tiles, slate); the second option is for a soft roof (roofing felt, bitumen shingles). If a decision is made to install metal tiles or slate as a roof, the distance between the sheathing boards depends on the pitch of the material profile. The average distance is about 50 cm, between the first two slats - no more than 25 cm.
Places where protruding roof elements and valleys are located require the installation of a continuous sheathing with a maximum gap of 1 cm. A continuous sheathing is made under a soft roof; however, it should be without gaps. To ensure the evenness of the roofing, wide boards are stacked one against the other as sheathing or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are used. When planning to purchase material for the manufacture of sheathing, you should know that the best is pine or spruce wood. This material is springy and ensures maximum stability of the roofing covering. At the same time, pine and spruce are quite durable building materials. Wooden beams must be well dried, without knots or other defects. For lathing, it is better to take first grade wood.
Roofing installation
They will help you make a gable roof for your garage with your own hands if necessary. experienced specialists. To do this, it is enough to apply for the appropriate construction consultation to a specialized company. The final stage in the construction of a gable roof for a garage is the installation of the roofing. The most popular materials in private construction are slate, metal tiles, and soft roofing. Let's consider all three methods of roofing.
Installation of a slate roof begins from any bottom edge. In this case, it is worth taking into account the wind rose and placing it overlapping on the leeward side. A special feature of the work is that the material should be attached to the sheathing by placing no more than two sheets on top of each other. First, the slate sheets are installed along the lower overhang of the roof. In this case, you should overlap in one or two waves. The width of the overlap depends on the angle of the roof. The larger it is, the greater the overlap.
When laying subsequent rows, the top row of material should be laid on top of the bottom one with an overlap of 20 cm. After laying the top rows of slate, the ridge should be reinforced with a metal strip. A feature of installing a metal tile roof is that the bending of the profile should be taken into account. Sheets of metal tiles are installed so that a free edge is obtained, extending into the middle of the drainage gutter. The first sheet is attached to the eaves board; horizontality is verified by level. A second sheet is attached horizontally next to the overlap; both sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws. After this, the top sheets are laid out. When the first two rows are installed, the remaining sheets are installed taking into account the overlap.
Vertically along the edges of the roof, sheets on one side are attached to end strip, which ensures reliable fixation of the roof covering. When all the rows are laid, a wind bar is installed on the ridge. It ensures insulation of the entire roof structure from moisture ingress. It should also be taken into account that the sheet roofing material installed on a counter-lattice with vapor barrier. This ensures maximum protection of rafters and other ceilings from condensation.
Roofing installation – soft roof– only possible if the roof slope is 12 – 90 degrees. Most often, the garage roof is covered with roofing felt. Strips of roofing felt are laid out perpendicular to the edges of the roof, stretched and overlapped. They are fastened with roofing nails. The difficulty lies in laying roofing felt along the lower edge of the roof slopes, as well as at the final stage when laying the last sheet of material. It must be wrapped over the edge of the roof.
In theory, laying a soft roof seems simple. In fact, laying the same roofing material on your own is not an easy task. To ensure that the roof is laid correctly and has an aesthetic appearance, it is better to use construction services professionals. If the garage attic is intended to be habitable, it is not superfluous to insulate the roof from the inside. First of all, a layer of waterproofing is laid.
As insulation the best solution is the choice of mineral wool. For insulation, a roll version is used. Layers of cotton wool are laid between the rafters and secured with special umbrella dowels. Next, a layer of vapor barrier is laid. To give it a beautiful appearance In an inhabited garage, it is recommended to stuff plywood sheets onto the battens or cover the space with plasterboard or PVC sheets. If desired, after treatment with special compounds against moisture, the resulting ceiling can be painted or whitewashed.
Now you know how to properly make a gable roof for a garage with your own hands. The attached video will help you understand this issue even better.
If you are building a garage, then the question will definitely arise - what kind of roof is most practical to make. After all, there are three types of such structures: flat, single-pitched and gable roofs, so the choice of something specific needs to be approached thoroughly.
- Flat roof– you will need to pour a concrete floor, or use ready-made slabs, which will require the involvement of special equipment and workers.
- Shed roof– it’s easy to do, which is why it’s most often chosen when building a garage with your own hands.
- Gable roof- will require not only more consumption of building materials, but also the presence of at least simple skills in the construction business.
The quality of insulation of the entire structure will depend on what type of roofing is chosen.:
- flat roof - it is insulated directly on top of a concrete slab;
- pitched roof - thermal insulation material is laid between the rafters;
- gable roof - insulated according to the same principle as a single-pitch roof, but heat-insulating material can also be laid in the horizontal ceiling of the garage.
Note:choosing the type of garage roof should be done before starting construction work, at the design stage. Depending on what is preferred, you will need to select the type of foundation.
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You can carry out the work on constructing a flat roof yourself, but it would still be advisable to invite specialists. Firstly, if you plan to use factory slabs for flooring, then it is impossible to lift and install them without a crane and workers. Secondly, even if the concrete floor is poured with your own hands, you will need not only a large amount of concrete, but also specific tools and devices.
If filling is carried out concrete slab directly on the garage, then it is made absolutely horizontal. The necessary slope is created already during the laying of the thermal insulation layer. And if factory floor slabs are laid, then the slope is made immediately, for which, when erecting walls, one is made slightly higher - normally the slope should be at least 2 cm per 1 meter of the building.
Shed roof
This is the simplest and affordable option erecting a roof for a garage - even beginners in the construction business can handle it. As rafters (load-bearing structures), you can use two boards or metal/wood beams fastened together.
Step-by-step construction instructions pitched roof for garage:
- The prepared rafters are laid along the garage, and they should rest on a wooden beam with a section of 10x10. Don't forget under these wooden blocks lay a layer of waterproofing material - this can be ordinary roofing material in 2 layers.
- A moisture-proof membrane is attached to the top of the rafters - this is done with a construction stapler.
- Next, a wooden counter-lattice is attached along the rafters (directly along them), and a wooden sheathing is attached to it in a perpendicular direction. The lathing can be continuous, or located at a certain step - here the choice is made on an individual basis.
- The roofing material is laid - this is done strictly according to the technology developed by the material manufacturer.
- Roof insulation is done either inside the garage (thermal insulation material is “stacked” on the ceiling) or between the rafters. If the first option is chosen, then the waterproofing material must be covered with a vapor barrier film.
Video instructions for installing a pitched roof:
Gable roof
In order to install a gable roof on a garage, you will need to equip a more complex version of the rafter system. Please note that if you plan to make a large roof slope, then it is better to equip an attic rather than an attic in the upper section of the roof. By the way, she will become additional room in the garage, but the entrance to it will need to be made from the street - it’s more practical.
- The question of building a garage arises for all car enthusiasts - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary house building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent duration and complexity of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build DIY frame garage, literally in a few days and at the lowest cost - this will be the best option.
It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning the creation of a frame garage, you manage to find a skillful assistant with experience in the art of construction, so that he will not only be “always on hand”, but also be able to warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.
Advantages of frame construction
As is known, in last years construction technology began to be practiced very widely frame houses, which, when used quality materials, correct installation frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?
A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.
So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:
- Simplicity of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save considerable money, which, otherwise, would be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
- The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a significant saving of effort and money.
- A relatively affordable price for the building materials necessary for the work - this depends on the specifics of the future garage.
- The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the use of specialized equipment for construction work and will reduce transportation costs.
- The construction of a frame garage can be made of either wood or metal, at the choice of the car owner.
The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage
If we talk about the procedure for constructing a garage, it differs little from building a small house and includes several stages:
- Preparing the site for construction - clearing the construction site.
- Digging a pit.
- Creating a foundation.
- Marking and assembling the wall frame.
- Creation of a roof structure.
- Work on insulation and wall covering.
- Installation of garage doors.
So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.
Construction site preparation
This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out with high quality, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a consequence, the entire structure will depend on them.
Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked and then well leveled. The area should be larger than the perimeter of the garage by 500÷600 mm on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of 150÷200 mm of top fertile soil layer. Such work can be done using special equipment or manually.
The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling out equipment is quite expensive. The soil is removed manually using two shovels - a bayonet shovel and a shovel shovel. Using a bayonet shovel, the boundary and depth of the soil layer to be removed is outlined, and the same tools are used to trim and crush it. After this, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, while simultaneously carrying out leveling.
After the site has been cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted using a hand tamper or roller.
Foundation for a frame structure
The next step in the prepared area is to mark the foundation of the garage. Foundation under frame structure you can choose any one, since the building will not be overly massive and will not put a large load on the base. True, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. From existing types In this case, a strip or slab foundation would be preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.
Based on the selected dimensions, it is necessary to mark the corner points of the perimeter of the base for the walls. For all types of foundations, the corners are marked, in principle, the same way, but their internal arrangement is somewhat different from each other.
Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:
— One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the reference to other objects on the site.
- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made from stakes and a crossbar board.
— The cords are stretched along one side and the other of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and are fixed on castoffs on the opposite side.
- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.
- Now we need to achieve straightness of the corners. The cast-off crossbar makes it possible to move the cord fixation point on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the “Egyptian triangle” is usually used: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long, even slats, reinforcing bars or even from a strong, non-stretchable rope (cord).
You should not make such a triangle too small - there is a high probability of error. You can, for example, take “n” to be 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.
- You can finally make sure that the rectangle is correct by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they should be the same length.
- If it is being built, then the internal area for the foundation is additionally marked to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the illustration above. At the intersection of the stretched cords the pits for the pillars will be located.
- Columnar foundation in arrangement seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself without resorting to outside help. This design is most often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often installed in a frame wooden garage.
A columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from various materials- this is reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks or combined option designs. But for a garage it can’t really be called optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - the entrance ramp - also arises. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not seem excessive.
- Excellent for placing a frame structure on it. It is more complex to manufacture and requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take longer, taking into account the waiting time for the concrete to harden and mature, which means that the process of building a garage will take a longer time.
However, strip foundations have their advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create an inspection pit equipped in accordance with all the rules. The garage floor can be made of either wood or concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for logs, additional supports will have to be made inside the strip foundation, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or dug in in marked places, treated bitumen mastic wooden beams.
Prices for bitumen mastic
bitumen mastic
- often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to install, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.
This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made, reliable garage floor is created, characterized by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is planned to be replaced over time capital walls garage, then a slab foundation is perfect for this.
We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.
Self-building a foundation - how to do it right?
If construction experience there is no such field, then you must first “take a training course.” Details of how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation - are described in a special publication on our portal.
Garage frame
The frame of the building can be made of timber, a metal profile, or these materials can be combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:
- Installation of the lower frame trim.
- Assembly and lifting of vertical frame wall structures.
- Securing the top trim.
- Sheathing that further strengthens the frame structure.
- Installation of roof frame structure.
Installation of the frame structure must be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing on which all dimensions are indicated. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and fold them in separate stacks, writing the parameters and frame area on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.
Bottom harness
So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, roofing felt is used for this purpose. This is necessary to save wooden elements frame from direct exposure to moisture, and metal ones from the occurrence of corrosive processes. This “cutoff” prevents moisture from spreading capillarily from the foundation walls from the soil during melting snow or rain.
Next, a wooden beam 120×120, 120×150 or 150×150 mm, a board 50×120 or 50×150 mm, is laid and secured on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete strip or along the marked lines on a slab base around the perimeter. During installation metal frame a steel channel or profile pipe with square section 100×100 mm.
Wooden strapping elements may have different connections. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.
When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the joint can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using “bandaging” at the corners,
The wooden parts of the frame are secured with anchor screws or on studs pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.
Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.
If the frame is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame the frame is installed on the edge of the joist boards.
Joists are needed not only to secure the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.
Wall frame installation
The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:
— Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each frame element is installed separately and fixed in the general vertical design walls This option is most often used when assembling wooden structures.
— The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in assembled form, is set up and fixed to the frame vertically. This method is especially convenient when, during assembly, for example, metal structures, additional devices are used - jigs, which facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.
Vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made from a profile pipe or timber 60×60 mm, as well as boards 30×120 or 30×150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the bottom trim and the planned thickness of the insulation.
Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom frame can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of attaching metal racks to a wooden base.
Upper frame frame
The upper frame of the structure should rigidly bind the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the top trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.
Prices for edged boards
edged board
For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the frame can be made from boards of the same width, laid in two layers, or timber, for example, 60 × 120 mm.
This illustration shows a version of the top trim, made of two layers of boards, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical posts of the structure.
Primary frame cladding
To immediately strengthen the wall frame, it should be sheathed on the outside or inside with sheet material (plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated sheets).
At this stage of the work, it will be enough to secure the sheets only on one side of the walls of the frame, since the cladding in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. This process is completed after the roofing material has been secured. If it is planned to further insulate the building from the inside, then the cladding is done from the outside, but sometimes it is done the other way around.
Frame garage floors
The garage roof can be single-pitch or gable. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to arrange an attic space or just an under-roof storage space various instruments and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.
The installation of a roof consists of several stages of work:
— Manufacturing of truss systems for single-pitched or gable roofs.
— Sheathing the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse sheathing.
— Flooring roofing material.
Gable roof
Garage floor
It is best to install a wooden floor when the roof is covered and the walls already have solid cladding. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, non-grooved boards are most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its condition under the influence of temperatures and moisture.
A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will preserve the wood from deformation.
The boards are fixed to the joists, and most often they are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.
If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep-penetrating strengthening primer, which will bond the top layers of concrete, strengthen them, and impart additional hydrophobic qualities. This floor can be painted, tiled, or left as is.
In the same case, when a strip foundation is chosen for the garage, above the creation concrete screed there is still serious work to be done.
A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of durability and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication on our portal.
Insulation of a frame garage
Thermal insulation material can be mounted into a frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the walls have already been initially covered with sheet material. In any case, the insulation must be located between two layers of cladding.
Garage exterior cladding
Different materials are used for cladding the walls on the outside, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.
The most popular finishes are metal or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as sheets of wall corrugated board.
The corrugated sheet has quite affordable price, is easily mounted on a frame and perfectly protects walls from moisture, mechanical loads and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so they can be installed independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.
Garage Doors
You can install gates of different designs on the frame structure of the garage - sectional, roller, up-and-over and swing.
The easiest for self-made are swing double-leaf gates, and other structures, as a rule, are manufactured and installed by experienced craftsmen.
Swing gates made of metal and (or) wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or timber is used, which is sheathed metal sheets, corrugated sheeting, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to the exact dimensions taken from the opening. Such a design will be inexpensive, and when insulated it will become a reliable barrier to the cold in winter period, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate ranges from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this point must be foreseen in advance.
In addition to the material for the frame and its lining, to make the gate you will need powerful hinged hinges for two leaves, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, purchase a lock that is completely hidden behind the front door panel, leaving only a small hole for the key to enter.
Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not particularly needed for such a structure.
Easier to assemble wooden gates, or at least cover them with light corrugated sheeting or siding, matching all the other walls of the garage.
Examples of building a frame garage - step by step
Insulated garage with gable roof
This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “major” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil the landscape design of even the most equipped area.
| Illustration | Brief description of the work stages performed |
|---|---|
| So, the first step, after clearing the site of the fertile soil layer, is to mark the territory, that is, determine the right angles of the perimeter of the garage along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from boards are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions presented above. |
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| Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, the pillars are planned to be installed only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. On the long sides, in addition to the corner ones, two more supports are placed with equal spacing, on the short rear one - one in the center. An additional post is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork fits into them freely, the work is best done manually, periodically fitting a box made of boards to the pit. The slats are nailed on top of the box so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed. |
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| The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Medium-fraction crushed stone, 50÷70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the crushed stone. |
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| The next step is to fill the formwork concrete mortar, consisting of sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The solution should fill everything inner space box, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula 120÷150 mm wide. |
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| Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150÷170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made from different materials, but asbestos concrete is most often used, since it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they take a short pause so that the concrete sets, and then the space around it is filled with crushed stone, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the ground surface by 120÷150 mm. |
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| The pipe, rigidly fixed in the pit, is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it must be “bayoneted”, for example, with a piece of reinforcement. This process is carried out to ensure that all air is removed from the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure. |
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| Immediately after pouring the solution into the pipes, long metal embedded elements are installed, made of strips no less than 5 mm thick, and the height should exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the piping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes in height are pre-drilled. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross-section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. The embedded strips should be shifted as much as possible and rotated in the pipe towards the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely hardened. |
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| This time can be spent usefully. The entire site from which it was filmed upper layer soil, filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using a regular hoe, and compacted with a manual tamper. |
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| The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing felt - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After this, you can proceed to the installation of the lower framing of the frame, consisting of timber with a cross-section of 170×150 mm. The timber is laid on the pillars and pressed against the loops embedded in them. |
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| At the corners, the strapping beam is connected into half a tree, but is not firmly fastened until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The beam ends at the border of the garage door - this is where additional supports are provided. |
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| To secure the timber to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must reliably hold the base in a given position throughout its entire service life. |
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| The next step is to drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm through the holes in the metal hinges in the timber, into which the fastening screws are screwed into the screwdriver until they stop using a special hexagonal head. | |
| Next, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid with a distance of 40÷50 mm from the outer edge of the beam and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long. |
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| A solid frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally secured along the same line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawed off. |
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| Next, the frame needs to be marked for installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400÷500 mm. | |
| After the marking has been made, bottom harness are fixed corner posts frame. They are first grabbed with long 100 mm self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners. |
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| Before fastening, all racks are set to the building level. If you plan to install windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure. |
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| The horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to vertical racks, diagonal ties are installed. They will also give the structure strength and prevent the frame from deforming. |
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| After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of timber or boards laid in two layers. The top trim must be strong, since it connects the vertical posts of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are also installed on it. Particular care must be taken to strengthen the gate opening and the wall frame around it. To do this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber. |
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| After completing work on the frame, they proceed to assembling the elements (trusses) of the rafter system. They are convenient to collect on horizontal plane, that is, on earth. To do this, the rafter legs are laid out at the desired angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (tightening). A stand (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the tightening, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure. |
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| Connection points wooden parts reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long. So going required quantity rafter pairs |
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| The next step is to mark the location of the finished trusses of the rafter system on the long sides of the top trim. They are usually installed in increments of 600 mm. Next, the rafter pairs are lifted onto the frame and laid out upside down. |
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| Then they are installed - the triangles are turned over one by one and installed on the top trim, according to the applied markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional posts; there can be five or seven of them, together with the central headstock. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but will also serve as a lathing for decorative cladding pediment. Then a cord is stretched between the two outer triangles, which will be easy to navigate when exposing the remaining rafter pairs. |
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| Consolidation roof trusses on the harness is carried out using special wide metal corners having perforation. Through these holes they are fixed to the tie bars and rafters, as well as the top trim. The corners must be installed on both sides of the installed rafters, since only in this case will they be rigidly fixed. After securing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them together and along the line of the ridge. |
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| When the roof structure is installed, it is covered from the side of the garage room waterproofing film, which is fixed to the ceiling beams using staples and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated. |
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| At the bottom, the film is additionally fixed with sheathing slats 20 mm thick, onto which the garage ceiling lining will later be fixed. To secure the boards, self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long are used. The installation pitch of the slats is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm. |
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| The next step is to lay the film on top of the film between the ceiling beams on the attic side. insulation material– most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost. |
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| A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150÷170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant tape. |
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| The next step is to sheathe the slopes of the rafter system along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time leveling them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be quite leveled after installation is completed by walking along the intended straight line with a hand-held circular saw. |
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| The result is neat roof slopes. To carry out ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which will be closed with ridge elements after laying the roofing material. |
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| Next, the plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, so a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Rolled waterproofing materials can be self-adhesive, or they can be secured with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm. |
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| The laid sheets are immediately marked for fastening the sheathing. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed, since this type of material is attached directly to the waterproofing. |
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| To make work easier, slats are temporarily attached to the laid canvas, on which you can rest your feet. | |
| The next step is to attach the counter-lattice slats, the ridge board and the eaves batten to the roof slopes. The cross-sectional size of the slats is usually 50×15 mm; they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws. |
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| In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is simultaneously covered with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant plasterboard or plywood (OSB). Horizontal slats are fixed on top of the casing, which are necessary for fixing decorative finishing walls In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for securing the plank sheathing. After fixing the slats is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if natural lighting is provided in the garage design. |
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| Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be done so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes to the height of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these areas, wind boards are also fixed along the eaves. |
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| Then the first layer of decorative wood sheathing is applied to the wall sheathing slats. The width of the boards is 130÷150 mm, thickness 10÷12 mm, they are secured with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood. | |
| To install a water drainage system, cornice boards Places for securing the gutter brackets are marked. | |
| The next step is the installation of the roof covering, in this case, it is rubber-composite slate with imitation natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is carried out from the cornice, the covering is laid from left to right. |
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| After laying and securing the roofing covering, it is covered with ridge elements on the ridge, which are also mounted with an overlap. | |
| Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in holders. A second layer of wood paneling is installed on the walls. This layer is fixed to already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them. |
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| The walls inside the garage are insulated mineral wool, which fits between the frame posts. The mats should occupy the entire space and fit tightly to the wooden parts. |
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| The insulation material is tightened waterproofing material, which uses dense polyethylene film. It is secured to the frame bars with staples using a stapler. |
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| Further, starting from the ceiling, everything internal surfaces The garage is sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Tile can be laid on top of this material, or it can be primed and painted. acrylic paints For facade works- at the request of the owners. |
Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the work on the construction of this garage are its doors and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.
In this case, the project included the installation overhead gates, the canvas of which, when opened, rises and goes under the garage ceiling. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, you can install another version of the gate on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.
As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, an inspection hole is almost always installed in the garage.
Wooden frame garage without insulation with a pitched roof
This simple garage design is perfect for building on a summer cottage, and any car enthusiast who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw can build it. Moreover, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.
This version of a frame garage is installed on a columnar foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of turf, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars increases - it is necessary to provide intermediate points for the ax and joists.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
| The bottom frame of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a beam with a cross section of 150×120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step is to install boards with a cross-section of 150×50 mm on the intermediate foundation pillars, which are attached to the framing beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. The boards will serve reliable basis for installation of wooden floors. |
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| The next stage is the installation of front corner vertical posts made of timber with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm. |
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| Next, mark the opening into which the garage door will be installed. According to the markings, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is set aside from the center of the trim beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, delimiting the doorway on the sides. |
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| The next step is to form the base of the rear wall frame. It also consists of four racks, spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in height of the front and rear walls, the required slope of the pitched roof is formed. |
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| All vertical bars are secured to the frame using powerful metal corners that secure the posts on both sides. | |
| As you can see in the illustration, the top trim in this design differs from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear posts are separately connected to each other by a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. To cover, you will need ten boards 5500 long with a cross section of 120×30÷50 mm. They are installed on the edge and secured with metal corners. |
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| Next, the midpoints of the sides of the garage are measured and marked. In these places, vertical posts are installed, which are connected to each other by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar using metal corners. |
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| The next step is to connect the side posts in the middle with boards, which can be fixed to the posts with corners or one of the connections used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall appears to be divided into four sections. |
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| To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is strengthened with a diagonal tie, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut into a vertical stand. |
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| The underside of the diagonal tie is installed and secured in the corner between the horizontal lintel and the vertical middle post of the frame. | |
| The result is a lathing that resembles the division into sections of the British flag. It should be noted that the frame can be simplified by attaching several less massive ones between the main posts. This becomes possible due to the fact that the structure of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards. |
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| Next, sheathing boards 20 mm thick are laid across the rafters. They are mounted at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If flexible material is used for coating bitumen shingles, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for the possible expansion of wood that may occur when high humidity air. Instead of boards, the rafters are also covered with moisture resistant plywood or OSB. |
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| This illustration clearly shows what a shed roof structure is for a frame garage. | |
| Having completed the installation of the plank sheathing, on the front side of the garage the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their caps should be recessed into the wood. | |
| The next step is to install the roofing material on the sheathing. It can be used as corrugated sheeting or slate, which is familiar to everyone. Of course, if financial capabilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are used for coating. |
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| If the garage is covered with entire sheets of corrugated sheets, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be installed in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the eaves, and also from left to right. |
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| After covering the roof, you can move on to laying the wooden floor. It uses a board 150 mm wide and 40 mm thick. It is imperative to leave a gap of 3÷4 mm between the boards, which will keep the floor level and prevent the boards from deforming due to temperature changes, changes in air humidity, or direct water ingress, for example, when parking a car in a garage in rainy weather. |
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| The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration. | |
| The frame of the walls is sheathed with boards installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will be almost invisible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100÷120 mm and different widths can be used. |
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| The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or profiled metal sheet. Unedged boards of the first layer are installed with gaps of 80÷100 mm, and for external cladding, boards are installed with a gap of 2÷3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should be on the boards of the first layer, so that through gaps do not form. |
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| Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only a car can enter the garage without hindrance, but also its owner can freely enter, without the risk of hitting his head due to inattention. So, if the height of the front wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm. |
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| So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut out in the vertical posts into which the edges of the horizontal timber beam are inserted. A beam with a cross section of 50x50 mm must fit into the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then a layer of unedged boards, and then decorative cladding. |
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| The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account 5 mm gaps on the hinges, gate shields are made from 20 mm thick boards. It should be noted that if the sashes are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second layer of planks or plywood, then a board for assembling the panels can be taken with a thickness of 12–15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and while maintaining temperature gaps, you need a hard and absolutely flat surface. For this you can use plywood sheets, laid out on a flat area of the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100÷120 mm. The shield is fastened with jumper bars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, with a distance of 150 mm from their edges. To provide rigidity and maintain the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are connected to each other with metal corners. |
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| The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal crossbars installed on the inside of the sash with bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. | |
| Next, the doors are placed one by one in the gate opening, on the sides of which the hinge attachment points are marked at the location. When closing the sashes, there should be a small gap of 3÷5 mm between them, since they should not touch each other. |
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| The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame posts using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts for which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the doors. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing in some areas against the sheathing boards, then these areas must be corrected with a plane. |
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| To create an exit ramp for a car at the edges of the width of the gate, powerful bars with a cross-sectional size of 250×180 mm are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and secured to the lower frame of the structure. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to rotting. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration. |
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| There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are recessed into the ground, leaving only top part timber. |
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| A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load of a car. |
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| Upon completion of the work, the finished garage, which has the simplest design and is built from available materials, may look like the illustration. If the building is sheathed with a different façade cladding material, it can acquire a more respectable appearance. Besides this, nothing prevents you from doing internal insulation and finishing, which will allow the garage to be used in winter time, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install convector heaters indoors and provide good lighting. |
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| If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, it will be quite simple to do. On wooden flooring A marking is made and a rectangle is cut out along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the deck in any way, since the main load falls on the areas where the car wheels will be located. |
A garage probably won’t be complete if it doesn’t have an inspection hole. And if conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instructions for already ready garage– in a special publication on our portal.
So, it is quite obvious that if you want and have basic construction skills, building a frame garage yourself on the territory of a summer cottage or next to a private house is a completely solvable task. The advantage of such a construction is the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from a capital one.
To conclude the publication, here is another example of the construction of a frame garage.
Video: the work of craftsmen constructing a frame garage
