How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: design, installation and useful tips. Do-it-yourself blind area around a concrete house How to make a blind area around a house with your own hands: important stages of work
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After completing the construction of the house, it is mandatory to install a blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be made with your own hands - step-by-step instruction and recommendations will help you go through all stages of installation without errors.
Appearance of the blind area
The structure of the blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a covering. The main role of the substrate is to create a smooth and durable base for installation. protective coating. Typically, the substrate is two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone. The good thing about using clay is that it can perform a waterproofing function and not allow moisture to pass through, but to do this it will need to be laid well and ensure a uniform layer. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any unevenness in the soil surface.
Any coating can be used suitable materials, which have the following properties:
- Have sufficient strength to withstand expected mechanical loads.
- They have high-quality waterproofing properties.
- Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
- Thanks to smooth surface are able to efficiently remove moisture from the foundation.
Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coverings are mainly used for blind areas.
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Photo of the blind area around the house: main types of structures
When designing photos, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their selection. There are these types of structures:
- Tough. They are structures based on hard surfaces, which under load retain their shape without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. Their service life is usually compared with the duration of operation of the building. In terms of installation costs, rigid structures will be more expensive than others, as they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Requires medium or high density soil for installation.
- Soft. They are distinguished by simple installation technology and minimal operating requirements. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort to install. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be laid on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the building facade.
- Semi-rigid. They represent a compromise between hard and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually tiled, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several decades. They have excellent maintainability, since part of the structure can be replaced or rearranged without any problems. However, they are limited to use in high elevation areas groundwater, on soils with a large freezing depth and on heaving soils. Cost installation work will cost less than hard ones, but at the same time the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.
Determining the parameters of the blind area
In order to understand how to properly make blind areas around houses, you need to choose it correctly technical specifications. One of them is width. It is determined by the current building codes and rules that say that it must be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually given size counted from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the selected type of material, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected variable and static loads. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is made at least 1 m.
Another parameter is the degree to which the structure is buried in the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, the structure is significantly affected by soil properties such as heaving, which can damage it literally within a year without the possibility of recovery. Therefore, the filling level must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and crushed stone cushion. If constant loads are expected, it is recommended to increase the thickness to 15-20 cm.
Helpful information! Where the porch adjoins the house there is no particular need to lay a blind area, since the main foundation in this case will be protected. However, if a monolithic or brick porch is built, then it is recommended to protect it too, since the weight per unit area is quite large and the likelihood of subsidence is high.
For high-quality sediment removal, the surface must have a certain slope. The magnitude of the angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the ease of use of the structure as a pedestrian path or for other purposes. A value of 2-3° is considered optimal.
In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or bushes near the house, you will need to uproot them to a distance of approximately 1.5 m from the house.
Attention! You can protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a border.
Preparatory work
Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:
- Marking the territory.
- Carrying out earthworks.
- Laying the underlying layer.
We mark out the area for installation of the blind area
Using pegs around the perimeter of the house it is necessary to mark. To do this, use a tape measure to measure a distance of 1 m from the walls and drive wooden pegs into the corners to a depth of 0.5 m so that it is possible to draw excavation without moving them from their place. We pull a rope on them.
Helpful information! If the building has large area, it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.
Excavation stage
Using a shovel, you need to dig a trench according to the markings. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic conditions and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3° from the building. This is quite easy to do by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.
Since the main foundation and the structure of the blind area will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging, you need to lay a damping layer based on polyurethane tape along the wall.
The bottom of the trench should be thoroughly compacted special tool, which is a steel rod with welded on the lower end flat sheet. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use a regular log.
Laying a pillow under the blind area
It is necessary to lay waterproofing at the bottom of the prepared trench and fill it with a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of structure and the depth of the trench, with careful compaction and leveling. For ease of work, it is recommended to spill the layer generously with water in order to compact it as much as possible. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.
Important! If construction is carried out in an area with high groundwater, then it will be necessary to install drainage system. It is a pipe with holes in the upper part, which is located around the perimeter of the building and is connected to the storm sewer system.
It is necessary to pour gravel with a fraction size of up to 5 cm on top of the sand, and level the top layer with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the pores formed.
Helpful information! Crushed stone can be replaced by other types of stone or even broken bricks. The most important thing is to use a homogeneous material so that areas with different strength characteristics are not created.
How to properly make a blind area around the house?
The installation process depends on the type of structure and the selected material. For example, when laying a soft structure, you will not need to carry out any additional work, but when installing rigidly, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to carry out installation correctly will be described in the following subsections.
Installation of a rigid blind area
It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat- and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes it is recommended to use thermal insulation materials, which are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example would be expanded polystyrene or foam boards.
Attention! Before laying, it is necessary to install the formwork, for which it is recommended to use boards lined with a waterproofing film on the inside. This solution will prevent the absorption of moisture from the subsequently poured concrete solution and it will be able to gain design strength. Otherwise, the dehydrated parts will become brittle and the service life will be significantly reduced.
To understand the technology of pouring a blind area around a concrete house, how to make formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:
- We install the first slab from the corner of the building along the wall, checking the correct position using a building level.
- We fix the insulation onto a suitable type of fastening, pressing it tightly against the wall.
- We install the next one butt to the first plate with a minimum gap.
- We secure the slab and carefully seal the joint with construction foam.
- Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.
Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with ligation of the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing mesh. For these purposes they use ready-made meshes with a rod diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm. It is important to carry out the installation in such a way that the steel rods are in the concrete layer. To do this, you need to use special plastic supports.
It is recommended to fill the structure with concrete mortar grade M400 or higher, and at one time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, you need to calculate the approximate volume in advance and order the solution in the right quantity at a cement plant.
When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which you carefully smooth the concrete over the surface using a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After driving the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.
At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To ensure ideal conditions for concrete hardening, you will need all top part cover with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. Curing time is 28 days depending on temperature and humidity environment.
Installation of a soft blind area
The soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid on top of a sand cushion. As insulating material It is recommended to use rubemast, which has an increased service life. Laying is done overlapping at a distance of 10-15 cm not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The connecting seams are sealed with bitumen under the heat of the burner.
On top of the waterproofing it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and crushed stone in equal proportions. Then the surface should be thoroughly compacted and leveled. In this case, it is imperative to maintain the angle of inclination. Another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of no more than 5 mm is laid on top of the embankment and also compacted.
DIY semi-rigid blind area: step-by-step instructions
Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is completely solvable and you can create a reliable blind area with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on a prepared sand-crushed stone cushion, on top of which an additional layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is poured. For paving
How to repair a blind area?
The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will obviously contain defects that will emerge sooner or later and require repairs. repair work. Restoration is carried out depending on the degree of damage:
- If there are cracks no larger than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and will in no way worsen the performance characteristics of the structure.
- If the crack size is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to use water-cement mortar in equal proportions. After the solution dries, a durable layer will be created that will provide maximum protection to the building foundation.
- For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill them with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a primer. deep penetration. It is also possible to use waterproof putties or sealants.
- Cracks more than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate its maintainability. It may be necessary to remove part of the top layer and level the pillow. After making sure there are sufficient load-bearing capacity The structure should be filled with concrete.
- The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement mixture to the surface in order to strengthen it.
Conclusion
It is shown that a do-it-yourself blind area can last long time, if step-by-step instructions were used and followed construction technologies. The main installation methods for all types of blind areas are given. Some methods for repairing damage to the external surface of a structure are indicated.
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No building can do without a reliable foundation to support its weight and ensure the integrity of the entire structure, but it also needs additional protection. If necessary, each person can make a concrete blind area around the house with their own hands, without using the services of professional builders. This process It is not very complicated, but it requires careful fulfillment of a number of requirements.
Requirements for the blind area, arrangement rules
This design serves as additional protection for the foundation of the building, preventing the destructive influence of groundwater and the environment. In addition to protection, it also performs an aesthetic function - a building with a blind area acquires a complete appearance. Before concreting a blind area with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of requirements:
To successfully create a blind area, you should draw up a drawing. You can compile it yourself, based on standard projects, or contact specialists. If necessary, it can be limited using. Being decorative element, it also increases the integrity of the structure and protects against penetration of tree or shrub roots.
Borders are mandatory if you create a blind area around the house from screenings or crushed stone, and if poplar, plane tree, raspberries and blackberries grow nearby.
Materials for creating a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands
Before you start work, you need to prepare everything necessary materials and a diagram. The foundation should be strengthened sequentially, but the entire process should take a minimum of time. In most cases, when drawing up a project, you can use standard concrete blind area units, making adjustments to the design in accordance with the characteristics of your region. You will need the following materials:
- Concrete. The resulting mixture must correspond to class characteristics from B3.5 to B8. When creating it, the best cement will be grade M 400.
- Sand. As a pillow you can use river or quarry sand. The material used when mixing the mixture must be soft; the presence of large impurities is not allowed.
- Crushed stone or gravel. The fraction of crushed stone for the blind area of a house is 10-20. Used as a filler for concrete mix, or as a base material.
- Clay or geotextile. This material is used in the arrangement concrete blind area with your own hands for additional protection from moisture, which is important for regions with high humidity.
It is determined by the brand of cement used and its specific gravity as a percentage of the elements of the solution. Good decision The material will be M400 Portland cement. The cement used must be fresh. If the powder forms lumps when squeezed in your hand, it will soon become unusable. The grade of cement selected depends on the planned thickness of the concrete blind area. Recommended proportions for mixing 1 m 3 solution:
- water – 190 l;
- filler (screenings or crushed stone) – 0.8 m3;
- sand – 0.5 m 3
- plasticizers ( liquid glass and similar) – 2.4 l;
- cement – 320 kg.
When calculating the size of the blind area around the house, you should prepare in advance required amount building materials. It is also important to follow the order in which the materials are presented, which is necessary to ensure the required consistency. Compliance with technology will allow you to achieve the required result and create reliable design. If all the requirements are met, you can effectively build a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands.
The amount of water supplied is great importance. Excess will reduce the strength of the resulting concrete. Not enough water will prevent it from hardening properly.
How to make a blind area for a foundation with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
The required amount of cement is poured into a concrete mixer or other mixing container, and then it is filled with water. When mixed, a “cement laitance” is formed into which other components are added. Next, sand is added in small portions, while the mixture must be constantly stirred. Next, filler is poured (crushed stone or screenings). If you find out in advance which crushed stone is best for the blind area and select the material of the correct fraction, mixing will not be difficult.
To ensure more efficient mixing, wait 5 minutes after adding each ingredient.
Once the materials are prepared, you can begin to work. The installation of a blind area around the house includes the following steps:
Also, before pouring, an expansion joint is installed between the blind area and the plinth using boards or sheets of plywood - this measure will protect the concrete from destruction when the temperature changes.
Installation of a blind area made of crushed stone
More economical option will be the use of crushed stone as the main filling material. Its arrangement is subject to the same requirements as for a concrete blind area, however, reinforcement and the creation of an expansion joint are not required. An additional layer of waterproofing (geotextile) is installed between the crushed stone and the sand “cushion”. This will prevent mixing of crushed stone and sand, and will not allow plants to grow from seeds that may have remained in the “cushion”.
You can make a blind area from crushed stone with your own hands without much effort. Large grade material can be used to fill the lower part of the trench. On top, to give decorative effect, fine crushed stone is used. Such a blind area also successfully protects the foundation from the destructive effects of groundwater and the environment. At the right approach you can give it a neat and attractive appearance.
Concrete blind area from A to Z with your own hands - video
The blind area is a special covering around the perimeter of the building, which performs protective function, preventing the harmful effects of precipitation on the foundation of the building. It is strongly recommended not to neglect this element, especially if the foundation is not protected in any way. Now we will figure out how to make a blind area around the house with our own hands, what points need to be taken into account and we will not forget to emphasize the important components of this process.
As already noted, the blind area protects the foundation of the building. It is made inclined, due to which rain and melt water flows away from the walls and base. This prevents the harmful effects of moisture, and simply makes it impossible for water to accumulate near the walls.
The blind area also plays the role of a kind of stabilizer, strengthening the soil and preventing it from moving due to temperature differences and uneven subsidence. Correctly chosen laying depth significantly increases the strength of the base, and also ensures additional insulation. Thus, the depth of soil freezing near the house will be greater than without such an element.
If your house has a basement or cellar, a blind area will perfectly help protect it from the cold. This is especially true for houses in which basement a garage or a gym is provided, that is, the room is not just for storing things, but is actively used.
And finally, the blind area performs a decorative function, especially if you decorate it with some elements in the future, which we will tell you about at the end of the article. Now let’s proceed to the actual construction of this element with our own hands.
Preparation
First of all, you need to decide on the type of blind area. In the vast majority of cases, they make ordinary concrete - it is much simpler and cheaper than other options. Also well prepared concrete mortar will last a considerable time and will save you from the need to redo something, although regular care and minor repairs will still be necessary.
We will consider other types of blind areas at the end of the article. The process of laying such options is not much different from concrete, but the cost of materials will be much higher.
So, before making a blind area around the house, you need to thoroughly clean the work area. The cut begs the question regarding dimensions: how wide should this element be? There is a clear rule here. Measure the overhang of your roof and add at least 20 cm to the figure. This will be the minimum width of your blind area. As a rule, most blind areas are made from 60 to 100 cm wide, so when preparing a site for work, take approximately these dimensions into account with a margin.
Mark the future blind area and drive pegs around the perimeter for guidance and pull the ropes. Carefully ensure that the width is uniform throughout the entire perimeter of the house, as this is the main factor in future visual beauty. Clear the soil of debris and large stones. By the way, it is better to carry out work in dry weather, preferably before the onset of cold weather. Optimally - at the end of summer.
In the perimeter marked for the blind area, we remove a layer of soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. We act very carefully, achieving uniform depth along the entire perimeter. After this, carefully compact the bottom. If after removing a layer of soil you find large roots various plants, it is recommended to remove them. This will reduce the harmful effects on the blind area.
If necessary, you should treat the soil with special herbicides, especially if you see fairly deep roots in the area. Plants, over time, can deform the blind area, and the reason will not be immediately clear, and repairing the structure will be quite difficult. Therefore, carefully get rid of large roots, even if you have to dig several holes.
Let's move on to making the formwork. For this purpose, it is recommended to use boards with a thickness of about 20 mm. In increments of approximately 1.5 meters, we drive support posts into the ground along the edge of the dug trench and attach our formwork to them. Make sure that the boards lie evenly and do not create unevenness, since the aesthetics of the blind area will depend on this. After that, we move on to the “pillows” tab.
If you want to make a blind area with your own hands with a high degree of insulation from moisture, it is recommended to lay a layer of clay directly on the ground. This layer will act as additional protection. Next, pour a layer of sand about 10 cm thick onto the clay and compact it tightly. To create more density, you can wet this sand a little, but don't overdo it with water.
Next, we lay a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand layer. This layer should be approximately 8-10 cm thick and consist of fine rock (preferably). As for reinforcing the base, you don’t have to do it, although experts recommend not skipping this stage for greater strength of the blind area. Reinforcement can be done using reinforcement with a cross-section of 6-10 mm, laying it lengthwise or crosswise in increments of 10 cm. Please note that the concrete pouring area must be evenly covered with reinforcement.
It is also important to remember about such a detail as the expansion seam. It represents a small indentation necessary to prevent deformation of the base due to thermal expansion of the blind area itself and shrinkage of the soil.
It is recommended to make an expansion joint approximately 150 mm wide. You can fill this seam with a mixture of sand and crushed stone, but it is better to use special materials, for example, a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Please note that the rope should be slightly thicker than the gap itself to create density. Be sure to allow the rope to protrude above the surface of the seam by approximately half its depth. The seam must be laid very tightly. As an alternative to such a harness, you can use sealant, but if you do not have the opportunity to purchase such materials, feel free to use sand and crushed stone.
Preparation of cement mortar and pouring
The preparation of cement mortar is carried out using a technology that depends on the brand of cement. You should use cement of a grade no lower than M200. Be sure to prepare a concrete mixer for this purpose, since manual mixing will not allow you to achieve the required consistency.
Let's pay attention to the correct recipe for preparing the solution. Here it is necessary to accurately maintain the proportions, since measurements “by eye” can later result in the appearance of cracks and the need to redo the work.
So, based on 1 cubic meter We need to maintain the following proportions of the finished solution:
- Cement - 280 kg;
- Construction sand - 840 kg;
- Crushed stone - 1400 kg;
- Clean water - 190 l.
We calculate the proportions based on cement grade M400 or M500, and the solution will turn out to be quite dry, but that’s what we need. The whole point is that the blind area must have a given slope, and a more liquid version will not hold its shape and will simply spread.
It is important to know the rules of kneading. A portion of cement is loaded into a concrete mixer and mixed for about 20 minutes. This is necessary to create a uniform consistency of the dry product. After this, sand is introduced in 3-4 doses, thoroughly mixing each additive. Crushed stone is introduced in the same way. Water must be supplied in a gentle stream, pouring in the entire portion in about 4-5 turns. Next, the mixture is stirred for another 2-3 minutes.
To make a blind area good quality, it is necessary to provide additional expansion joints, similar to those described above. Every 1.5-2 meters along the perimeter of the blind area we install wooden slats, perpendicular to the base of the house. The slats are installed on the edge. Do not forget that the blind area must be inclined, so be sure to allow for a difference in height of about 2-3 cm for every meter. In other words, between the beginning of a blind area 2 meters wide and its end there should be a difference in height of about 5-6 cm. A flatter slope will be insufficient for water drainage, and a steeper one will cause water to flow down very quickly, which can cause constant destruction of the soil about edges of the structure.
The slats can be treated with a special mastic to increase their strength and protect them from rotting, and then proceed to the direct pouring of the mixture. When pouring, do not forget to compact the concrete - this can be done with a handy tool, for example, a shovel or hoe. You should “pierce” the concrete layer and compact it in a back-and-forth motion. If you have a special electric vibrator for these purposes, the work will go faster.
To smooth out the concrete layer we use the following technology. We take a long and even lath and, holding it perpendicular to the installed expansion joints, smooth the surface of the poured mixture. Wood slats, which we installed as expansion joints, will act as beacons during smoothing, so you can easily achieve a flat surface.
In the same way, we pour concrete along the entire perimeter of the future blind area. It is advisable to carry out this stage of work in one approach, that is, not to postpone filling of certain parts until later. You should pour the entire perimeter at once, especially trying to prevent the concrete from setting tightly in places adjacent to the pour to prevent cracks from appearing in the future. This way you should get a monolithic blind area with a flat surface. Be sure to check even the smallest details process.
Drying
So, the blind area with your own hands is almost ready. Now you need to wait until the concrete hardens completely. The hardening time of the blind area depends on the thickness of the solution layer. In our case, this is about 10 cm. Complete hardening will take about 5 days, and depending on the weather, it is necessary to monitor the process. In hot weather, you can cover the blind area with a cloth and periodically wet it. A little rain will not interfere with the process, but excess moisture is also not needed, so stock up on plastic covering. In a week you can start finishing works(if you want), or leave the blind area as it turned out.
By the way, about the finishing. Many people try to decorate the blind area with a border. In fact good design does not need this detail, but for aesthetic reasons you can still provide a small border. The blind area is also often covered with a variety of decorative tiles. This is not difficult to do.
A few words about care and repair
Now you know how to make a blind area at home with your own hands, but you also need to know how to care for or repair it. At correct installation There will be no problems with the blind area for quite some time, but after a few years cracks may still appear, especially if your house is located in a rather difficult climate zone with frequent precipitation and temperature changes.
So, to eliminate small cracks, you can use liquid cement mortar in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. Just carefully pour the solution into the cracks and work with a putty knife to smooth the surface. Carefully inspect the entire perimeter and eliminate any cracks found.
For large cracks, it is necessary to prepare a special solution consisting of bitumen, fine slag and asbestos in proportions 7:1:1.5. Cracks must be cut down to the very base and thoroughly cleaned. After this, pour the solution and cover it with sand on top. After drying, the surface can be leveled.
It is important to remember that repairs should be carried out in cool weather, or at least in the morning. The thing is that under the influence of heat, concrete expands and cracks decrease, so in the heat you will not be able to do the job efficiently.
Other types of blind areas
We settled on the concrete option, but if you want to make a blind area for your home with your own hands from other materials, then you can safely use such popular options as stone, paving stones or paving slabs. It is easier to work with this material, although the work will be significantly more expensive than with the concrete option.
Laying such a blind area is that the preparatory procedures and the creation of a “cushion” are no different from concrete version. After completing this work, the selected material is laid on top of the created “cushion”, and then carefully compacted. The gaps are filled with sand.
Do-it-yourself blind areas with stones, tiles or paving stones are quite durable and resistant to atmospheric influences, but their disadvantage can be considered the relative high cost of materials. It is worth noting that care for this option should be more frequent than for concrete, especially after serious temperature fluctuations or significant precipitation.
From a decorative point of view, this option, of course, looks more beautiful than a conventional concrete blind area. But you can also provide finishing for the one we talked about in the article. In this case you will spend less material and the work will cost less.
What type of blind area to choose is up to you. We tried to talk about the main elements of the procedure and focus on important nuances. With such knowledge, you can easily cope with the job and make your home and yard not only protected, but also beautiful.
Blind area- this is a concrete or asphalt strip with a width of 50 to 100 cm, encircling the perimeter of the entire house.
The main purpose of the blind area is to protect the foundation from moisture.
In addition, the design of the blind area allows you to keep the soil, which is located at the base of the house, dry.
This significantly reduces the load on the foundation in winter time, with sudden temperature changes. In the article we will talk about the types of materials that can be used for blind areas, and also describe step-by-step technology its creation.
Types of blind area and basic requirements for it
Depending on the materials used, blind areas are divided into the following:
- Concrete;
- From;
- Brick;
- Asphalt concrete.
Choice material for a blind area is most often determined by the type of soil and the design of the site.
In addition, a blind area made according to all the rules must comply with several requirements:
- have good waterproofing properties;
- Retreat from the plane of the roof overhang by 25 – 30 cm. If this distance is less, then the blind area will not be able to protect the foundation from moisture;
- The width of the blind area on loose (sandy and sandy loam) and moving soils should be at least 90 cm, on dense (clayey) - quite enough 60 cm.
- The angle of inclination of the brick blind area is – 50 degrees, concrete – 30 degrees.
Failure to comply with even one of the requirements will significantly reduce the effectiveness of the blind area. This is especially important to know for those who decide to do it with your own hands.
Creating a blind area
Very often, after building a house, construction companies protection for the foundation is neglected, and you have to do it yourself.
Making a blind area is not difficult, especially if you choose the simplest and most common option - concrete. You don’t need any special skills or tools, you just need desire and knowledge of some nuances.
Tools and materials
For self-made blind areas will be required:
- Edged board 25x100mm;
- Cement, sand, crushed stone medium-sized (no larger than 20 mm) or ready-made concrete;
- Nylon cord;
- Axe, hacksaw, hammer;
- Building level;
- Shovel and bayonet shovel;
- Rule– a lath with which the solution is leveled.
If everything is ready, you can move on to the next stage.
Trench
First of all, the future blind area needs to be marked. The easiest way to do this is with plumb line.
This primitive device is a nylon cord with a load attached to it. You need to secure one end of the cord to the roof overhang and lower the load to the surface of the soil.
At the point where the load touches the ground, it is hammered peg.
There must be at least such marks 3, along each wall, two at its corners and one between the corners, across the wall. Now you need to move all the pegs from the base of the building to a distance 25-30 cm.
The new position of the marks will determine width blind areas. All that remains is to stretch the nylon cord between the pegs and the marking can be considered complete.
After marking the contours of the trench, you can begin to remove the top layer of soil. The key point is the depth of the trench. It completely depends on the type of soil, but should be at least 15 cm, and for loose soils- can reach 30 cm.
After digging the soil, the bottom of the trench needs to be compacted. There are many ways to do this, for example, you can use a homemade tamper. It is a piece of log with a diameter 10-15 cm and length about 1m, with a perpendicular crossbar nailed to its end.
The crossbar acts as a handle, so it is best to use an old shovel handle, up to 50 cm. Holding the handle with both hands, lift the tamper up at least 30 cm and forcefully lower it onto the soil being compacted. This is done many times until the soil at the bottom of the trench ceases to be loose.
Important! If during compaction the soil gives a large subsidence, the trench should be deepened.
Waterproofing and formwork
Sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench; this will be the so-called sand cushion. Its thickness must be at least 5 cm, with mandatory compaction.
Then a layer is placed waterproofing. It can be used as traditional materials, polyethylene and roofing felt, as well as modern ones, for example, waterproofing.
The main thing is to ensure that there are no gaps at the joints of the waterproof material. It is poured on top again 5 cm sand The last layer becomes crushed stone, they fill the trench to the surface of the soil.
The formwork is wooden frame, into which concrete will subsequently be poured. For its production they use edged boards thick 25 mm and width 100 mm. They are installed along the outer edge of the trench and fastened with self-tapping screws.
It must be taken into account that the formwork cannot be filled with one large layer of concrete. After drying, it must will crack. Therefore, the entire formwork is divided into several parts.
Most often this is done using slats, thick 15 mm, which are attached on one side to the base of the building, and on the other to the formwork boards, at a distance 1.5 – 2.5 m from each other. This will provide the structure with additional strength.
You may be interested in the article: “Do it yourself paving area”:
Pouring concrete
The quality of the upper part of the blind area is almost completely determined concrete.
Violation of production technology or non-compliance with proportions significantly affect its strength. It's better, of course, to use ready concrete delivered directly from the factory.
But not everyone can afford this, so most often the solution is made independently. Considering the large volume of work with concrete, it is advisable to use concrete mixer.
The weight ratio of the components for preparing the concrete mixture is approximately the following: 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 3 parts crushed stone. For example, for 100 kg of cement we will need 200 kg of sand and 300 kg of crushed stone.
Pouring concrete is carried out in 2 stages. The thickness of the first concrete layer should be approximately 5 cm, after which the blind area is reinforced, i.e. reinforced by metal. This is necessary in order to prevent it from cracking. Most often, a wire mesh with a diameter of 3 mm.
She lays right on cement mortar. The top layer of concrete must provide the required angle of inclination, for a concrete blind area this is 30 degrees. This is done using the rule that levels the solution. Don’t forget about the appearance of the blind area; you need to make it smooth as quickly as possible, before the solution begins to set.
Work continues until the entire blind area is filled. It is advisable to do this within one day, which will be an additional guarantee of quality.
Attention! Drying of concrete must occur at a certain humidity, therefore, until maximum strength is achieved, it must be watered 2-3 times a day and covered from sun rays wet rags.
A few words in conclusion. The house is built for more than one decade and it is quite natural that over time, the blind area will have to be repaired or completely replaced. In order for this to happen as little as possible it is necessary finish the base building waterproofing materials and think over water drainage from the roof.
You can watch detailed information about building a blind area with your own hands in this video.
Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.
The installation of a blind area is an extremely important event. These works are carried out after the construction of the house is completed, so sometimes they are given insufficient attention, which is unacceptable, since the design of the blind area performs the extremely important task of protecting the foundation from atmospheric moisture. The following describes how to make a blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for each type of protective strip and recommendations for choosing materials.
Concrete blind area
Today this is the most popular method of protecting the foundation, but it has a fairly large number of disadvantages, therefore, if you have the financial means, choose a more expensive and reliable option, it is better to resort to it.
Most often, this type of blind area is typical for mass urban construction.
The disadvantages include:
- The manufacture of a concrete element is carried out in the following order: Calculation of the thickness of the entire structure, in which all layers must be taken into account.
- This value is needed in order to determine the depth of the trench along the perimeter of the foundation. Determination of geometric dimensions. On average, the width should be taken within 90-100 cm. The slope for concrete is 3-5% (for piece materials
- – 5%, therefore, in order not to get confused in the values, it is recommended to remember the general – 5%). Place markings on the area. Limits for this future design
- along the perimeter of the foundation they are marked with pegs with a cord stretched along them. Next, a trench is opened.
- The dimensions in the plan are already limited by the markings; all that remains is to dig out the soil to the depth calculated in the first point. The base soil is thoroughly compacted.
- If possible, make a castle from clay, which will provide additional protection from moisture. The next layer is a sand cushion. Sand has three functions: replacement heaving soil , which is widespread throughout the country, on conditionally non-heaving, leveling the base, installing a drainage layer. sand cushion
- It is made only from coarse or medium sand. If the blind area is built with your own hands using fine fractions, then large shrinkages, cracks and damage to the waterproofing are possible. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the characteristics of the soil. It is important to consider strength and water saturation. If the soils on the site are strong, it will be enough to lay about 200 mm of sand. For unstable foundations, 500mm of sand bedding may be required. Crushed stone bedding performs approximately the same functions as sand bedding. Here you can use not only crushed stone, but also gravel or sand and gravel mixture . The construction of a blind area on such a foundation increases the strength of the soil and increases the reliability of the entire structure. At this stage they end preparatory work . Up to this point fundamental differences on how to properly make a blind area for a foundation from different materials
- , No. The next stage is placing the formwork. The formwork is needed to be liquid did not flow beyond the markings. For manufacturing, you can purchase boards with a thickness of 22-25mm. You can use old materials to save money. Walls are made from boards and installed around the perimeter of the foundation. In this case, it is important to install the board directly to the wall of the building; the thickness of the formwork element will provide the necessary expansion joint, the thickness of which is in the range of 20-40 mm. The seam is needed to prevent cracking and deformation of the structure due to different shrinkage of the foundation and blind area.
- After the formwork is installed, reinforcing mesh is laid. They will increase the bending strength of concrete. The diameter of the reinforcement in meshes is recommended to be approximately 10 mm. This technology for constructing a blind area will ensure its strength and reliability.
- Next, the installation of the blind area requires the installation of transverse boards along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The boards will provide expansion joints that cut the strip into separate sections. The pitch of the boards is 2 meters.
- The next stage is pouring concrete. For this purpose, a concrete mixture of classes B20 - B22.5 (grade M300) is made. It is this solution that can ensure the durability of the structure and the necessary strength. You can use concrete of smaller classes, B15 and B17.5 are suitable, but it is worth remembering that the service life will be reduced. When using B22.5 mixture regulatory period service will be approximately 25 years. Filling in each compartment between the boards expansion joints performed in one go. Afterwards, compaction is required. There are several methods, but the most common is vibratory hammers. necessary equipment you can use bayonet.
- After the solution is poured, the surface is ironed, this is done to increase the strength characteristics.
- The penultimate stage of manufacturing a concrete foundation blind area is strengthening the structure and maintaining it. At a temperature of +20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity, it takes 4 weeks to harden. If the temperature is lower, the process slows down significantly. It is necessary to wait until at least 70% of the brand strength of concrete. For a week or two after pouring, the surface is moistened every 2-3 hours (and at night 2-3 times per night). This is necessary to prevent cracks from appearing.
- When the concrete has gained 70% strength, the formwork can be removed. After this, the installation of the blind area is completed.
Foundation blind area made of paving slabs
In this case, making a blind area around the house with your own hands has only one drawback - cost. But in terms of appearance, maintainability and ease of use, it is superior to the previous type.
The preparatory stage of work is carried out according to points 1-7 for the manufacture of a concrete foundation blind area.
Design diagram from paving slabs - An additional layer of sand 70-100 mm is laid on the crushed stone, while ensuring the necessary slope.
- The next stage is installation of tiles.
- The joints of piece elements are sealed with cement-sand mortar.
More details about this type of construction can be found in the article “Blind area made of paving slabs.” Using the same technology, a structure made of cobblestones or ceramic bricks is installed.
Clay blind area
Arrangement of this type to protect the foundation requires performing actions in the following order:
Clay structure construction - Preparation according to points 1-7 for a concrete blind area.
- Laying a layer of clay 100-150 mm thick and compacting it. For manufacturing, you can use the clay that remains after excavating the foundation pit, but only if it is of good quality and high strength.
- The arrangement ends with the creation of a decorative layer. To do this, stones are sunk into the clay layer or pebbles are laid on top. This will allow you to create a convenient pedestrian path and strengthen the structure.
Clay blind area is an inexpensive and not labor-intensive option for creating drainage around the perimeter of the foundation.
Membranes
Design diagram with a profiled PVP membrane Before making a blind area around the house, it is recommended to consider the option of PVP membranes.
This material provides the highest degree of protection supporting structures from atmospheric moisture.
The technology is different from common species protective blind areas:
- Perform steps 1-5 for a concrete blind area.
- Lay a layer of sand and a membrane in it.
- Cover it all with a layer of crushed stone.
- Perform backfilling.
- Planting grass.
The membrane blind area does not reach the surface and cannot be used as a sidewalk. Its only function is reliable waterproofing. INThe choice of material depends on the capabilities and wishes of the future owner of the house.
