Do-it-yourself blind area - step-by-step instructions for installation, repair, strengthening and decoration (100 photos). Do-it-yourself blind area step-by-step instructions Cost of work on installing a concrete blind area without material
The blind area is necessary element, which performs protective functions and maintains the integrity of the foundation. You can build a reliable blind area yourself, without having any special skills or experience. During its construction, it is recommended to provide additional protection to strengthen the foundation of the building. In this article we will look at step-by-step instructions for building a blind area.
Construction of a blind area with your own hands Blind area: how to build?
When constructing a solid concrete blind area, it is possible to almost completely protect the base of the building from exposure to a humid environment, temperature changes, mechanical damage due to the “movement” of the soil. The construction of the blind area smoothes negative impact environment and protects the foundation of the building from destruction.
It performs the following functions:
- Drainage of rainwater and melt water from the foundation of the house. If we neglect its construction, then moisture will long time be close to the foundation. Because of this, it will begin to collapse, the reinforcement inside it, which serves to strengthen it, will begin to corrode.
- Suspension of soil displacement, namely the shift of soil layers, swelling, subsidence.
- Maintaining technical indicators, preventing them from significant fluctuations.
Determining the parameters of the blind area
For the correct construction of a durable structure, they are guided by specially designed regulatory documents and SNiPs. For example, constructing concrete structure, it is necessary to provide that the end point of the protruding overhang roofing, was 20 cm less than the width of the slope. The parameters of the water supply system should also be included in the calculation. In addition, the width of the blind area also depends on the characteristics of the soil and its type. Most often, the width of the structure is about one meter, in which case it will serve not only to protect the foundation, but also as a path.
The depth of the blind area depends on the depth of soil freezing in winter period, and it must be able to move along with the movement of the soil. Otherwise, its purpose will only be to drain water. Minimum thickness blind areas around the perimeter of the house, at least 10 cm. If there is a built-in garage, then the figure should be increased to 15 cm so that it can withstand heavy loads (for example, the weight of a car). The length of the protective strip depends on the size of the building. It is usually not built around the porch.
Fill rules
The blind area is poured at an angle directed from the base, and its value is about 10%. The exact parameters of the angle of inclination depend on the nature of the soil and the amount of precipitation. The most commonly used tilt angle is up to three degrees. The minimum height above the soil level is 5 cm, which facilitates the drainage of moisture and its removal from the edges. When constructing a rigid blind area, the height of the base part is at least 50 cm, and at least 30 cm for soft protection. Depending on the wishes of the owners of the site and financial capabilities, a decision is made to build a border or not, since it has a purely decorative meaning. But, a border is necessary if, next to the structure being erected, there are green spaces (blackberries, raspberries, poplars), whose root system capable of destroying the blind area.
Types of blind area. Concrete construction involves the construction of a reinforced strip along the entire perimeter and the use of two main elements:
- An underlying layer formed from materials that prevent moisture from penetrating to the foundation. Clay, sand, fine crushed stone and geotextiles have proven themselves well in this capacity. You can combine the composition of materials.
- A decorative element serving as a covering and decoration.
The construction of a blind area is carried out by analogy with the construction of a foundation, namely:
- ditch preparation;
- laying layers of sand and crushed stone to act as a shock-absorbing cushion;
- construction of a frame from reinforcement;
- directly pouring the blind area and final finishing.
The blind area is divided into three types: soft, semi-rigid, hard. They differ from each other in terms of service life, features of their design and the material used for construction. Most often, it is constructed concrete protection, which is a monolithic canvas. TO similar type paved options also apply. If it is intended to insulate a structure, then it should only be rigid. Otherwise, it is not practical to install insulation. The monolithic blind area has long term service, similar to the main structure, but also has disadvantages:
- the process requires high labor intensity and a lot of time;
- considerable financial investments;
- laying asphalt on small area not worth the investment.
Semi-rigid protection is a multi-layer cushion, top part which is formed from several options: concrete slab, cobblestone, porcelain stoneware, paving slabs. Such a system is less expensive both financially and resource-wise, but it is not used on heaving soil. Unity in design can be achieved if the blind area is laid out from the same material from which the rest of the paths are made.
Advantages of semi-rigid design:
- long service life, subject to installation technology - up to 30 years;
- there are no restrictions on climatic conditions;
- low cash costs, easy to carry out routine repairs.
Most a budget option– production of soft blind area. But it also has a shorter service life, about 7 years. During its construction, a cushion of several layers is formed and covered with fine crushed stone or gravel on top. When constructing a blind area, it is recommended to complete all work before the onset of frost, so that the structure can harden properly (if it is concrete) and settle.
Before starting work, prepare the area for the construction. First of all, they make markings, which will make it easier further work. After this, they dig a trench with a depth of at least 15 cm, and on heaving soil - at least 30 cm. We should not forget about creating a bevel, making different depths at the points of inclination for this. The bottom of the dug trench is carefully compacted using a log. Before constructing the blind area, install wooden formwork, fastening the boards from the outside. If it is not planned to dismantle it in the future, then the boards must first be treated with an antiseptic and wrapped waterproofing material(ruberoid).
A blind area is a strengthening of the perimeter of a house to prevent water from flowing under the foundation. If you are the owner of a private house and there is no blind area yet, start thinking about building one. And ours step-by-step instruction will help with this. At least that's what we hope.
We do not claim that our option, which is clearly described below, is the most correct. Each master can do it in his own way. But we take into account general norms and build on the knowledge and experience that we have.
Step One: Preparation
According to standards, the blind area should protrude 20-25 centimeters beyond the lower overhang of the roof. That is, if water drains over the roof during rain, it should not fall on the ground. Even if there is a drain, something can happen to it (it comes off from the wind, becomes clogged with dry leaves). We decide on the width and carefully study the vegetation around the house. Trees that are located next to the house can undermine the blind area in the future with their roots. This is especially true for young animals, which do not seem dangerous now, but can cause a lot of trouble in the future. What to do? Cutting down a tree is a shame. Leave it as is - there may be problems with the destruction of the blind area by the roots. We have repeatedly encountered similar things and found our way out: when the tree is old, the large roots in the area of the blind area are cut off when we begin to go deeper. If the tree is young and planted 2-4 meters from the house, then the owner of the house must monitor its growth. As soon as signs appear that the root has reached the blind area, immediately put an ax in your hands and a shovel on top. Having dug up a little earth literally a meter from the blind area, the root needs to be cut. The tree will not be harmed.
Step two: prepare the place
You should go a little deeper to the width of the future blind area. A little - it depends on the characteristics of the soil. Yes, and you can go deeper in different ways. If the ground is hard, then a shovel will become your friend. If it is soft, you can compact the soil to the depth required for filling the blind area. Tamping is necessary, as this is a kind of guarantee that the soil will not sag under the weight of the blind area. You need to go deeper with the expectation that you will need to pour sand, then crushed stone, then insulation (optional) and only then pour concrete. We usually do this: sand + crushed stone - 4-6 cm, insulation - 5-10 cm, concrete screed- at least 6 cm. On average, about 20 centimeters of recess is obtained.
Here you need to understand that you won’t be able to overdo it, but a deficiency in the thickness of any of the layers can lead to cracks in the blind area. Even if not in the first or second year, they will appear. And then you realize that the stingy pays twice.
Step three: insulation
Best suited as insulation polystyrene foam boards. You can use polystyrene foam, this is who will be “generous” for what. The slabs are laid tightly against each other. Even at the stage of compacting and creating a sand-crushed stone cushion, a slope is given so that the blind area is of the same thickness and at the same time provides for water drainage. It is enough to make the slope at a rate of 3-5 cm per meter of blind area. Then it will be comfortable to walk, and the water will drain without delay. The insulation is laid in such a way that the edge that is not adjacent to the base is concreted 4-6 cm. As a guide, already at this stage you can install boards or other material so that the concrete does not spread after pouring.
Step four: reinforcement
I saw a few blind areas with reinforcing mesh, but they all had cracks and large ones. At the same time, where reinforcing mesh or thin reinforcement was used, cracks, if any, were insignificant. But the main thing is that there were no differences in the areas of the blind area, which happen when cracking or subsidence due to improper compaction.
You can purchase reinforcing mesh or use reinforcement, although this is much more expensive and labor-intensive. The reinforcement must be laid in such a way that the concrete completely envelops the metal. You can do this: after laying the mesh, place small bars in some places. But only when concreting reaches such places, do not forget to remove the bars.
Step five, final: concreting
Do-it-yourself blind area is always difficult at this point. Firstly, it is desirable to have a concrete mixer. Secondly, you need to be able to prepare high-quality concrete. Thirdly, you need to fill and level it correctly. Well, okay, let’s help with some advice:
— optimal proportion– 1:2:3, where 1 is cement, 2 is sand, 3 is crushed stone. M400 cement, preferably river or sea sand, fine crushed stone.
— filling should be done in one day, maximum two. If you fill a couple of meters a day, cracking at the joints is inevitable in the future. So calculate your strength correctly.
- to ensure that the surface of the blind area is even and as smooth as possible after hardening, use beacons and level with a rule or a smooth lath along the beacons.
— if it is not possible to purchase river or sea sand, use available quarry sand. But it needs to be washed to remove particles of earth and clay. You can use a concrete mixer: pour a portion of sand and fill it with water, turn it on for a couple of minutes. Then turn off the drum and turn it over so that the glass muddy water. Ideally, it is advisable to rinse each portion of sand 2-3 times. If you refuse to wash, we do not guarantee a positive result. Over time, the blind area will begin to be washed away by raindrops.
- complete hardening (28 days) and the formwork can be removed. If the work is carried out in the hot summer, then it is better to work early in the morning or in the evening, and during the day, when it dries out a little, water the blind area with water from a well or well.
Do-it-yourself blind area is a process that will teach you a lot. Try and don't be afraid that you won't succeed. And if something is unclear, write in the comments and we will not hesitate to respond.
You can easily create a blind area with your own hands. It is intended to protect the foundation from precipitation under its base, as well as water that forms after the snow melts. In some regions, this is required to prevent materials from interacting with high-lying groundwater. If there is a desire to extend the life of a building, then it is important to equip the building with the mentioned element.
Features of the blind area
The blind area with your own hands can be made of wood, concrete, brick, asphalt, tiles, reinforced concrete slabs or cobblestones. Whatever design is chosen, it will have two layers, the first of which is a coating, while the second is a special lining layer of fine crushed stone, sand, clay or gritsovka. It is recommended to build this part of the house together with the foundation. However, if the building was purchased, but turned out to be deprived of a blind area, it can be completed. If you build a blind area with your own hands, the instructions will definitely come in handy. The main rule in this case is that it should be 25 cm larger than the overhang of the cornice. Ultimately, you should equip an element whose width is 100 cm. The wider this component is, the better it will drain water. The standard slope used is a limit of 3 to 7 degrees. At the same time, a storm drain is being built, which is a ditch located around the perimeter.
Defining the boundary and preparing the base
If you are going to build a blind area with your own hands, then first you need to determine the boundary. It is recommended to remove the roots of the plants before doing this. future design, this can be done using bayonet shovel. She needs to be removed upper layer soil so that plants cannot destroy the blind area. The soil can additionally be treated with a herbicide. It is necessary to install restrictive boards around the perimeter to prevent the solution from leaking out. Now the prepared area must be filled with sand, compacted well and filled with water. The next layer will be broken brick or crushed stone. All this needs to be compacted using a vibrating machine.
Thermal and waterproofing
If you build a blind area with your own hands near a house that has ground floor or a cellar, then insulation is necessary. It is recommended to use penoplex, expanded polystyrene or foam glass as materials for this. It is necessary to carry out the work in such a way that a layer of air remains under the blind area; its thickness should be 15 cm. Roofing felt or PVC film can be used as waterproofing.
Providing temperature cuts
When building a blind area at home with your own hands, it is imperative to install cutouts; storm drains or storm drains are perfect for this. flat slate. As another important moment there is a need to leave expansion joints in the area where the walls connect with the blind area. To do this, you can use sealant, bitumen or roofing felt. The second option should be laid in two layers.
Working with concrete
At the next stage, you can prepare and pour the solution; it is preferable to use the M300 brand, thanks to which you will be able to obtain a strong and reliable blind area. You can make concrete yourself; for this you should use sand, cement, crushed stone and water in a ratio of 3: 1: 4: 1/2. In a concrete mixer, you need to mix the cement with water, this should be done until an adhesive mixture is formed. Next you should add crushed stone and sand. Concrete can be considered ready when the mass becomes homogeneous.
Ironing
If you are thinking about how to make a blind area at home with your own hands, then it is important to make ironing. To do this, 15 minutes after pouring the concrete, you need to sprinkle the surface with a dry cement solution, which is smoothed with a spatula. This will prevent moisture from penetrating inside. At the same time, the surface itself will be smooth and aesthetically pleasing. However, if you plan to lay tiles afterwards, then this step must be skipped.
Selection of blind area design
You can make a blind area with your own hands in a short time using ready-made concrete slabs. They will need to be laid on a previously prepared surface, and then filled with liquid bitumen. Among consumers in Lately Drainage profiled membranes, which are laid on the ground under a layer of sand, are becoming increasingly popular. Any covering can be laid on top.
Features of a concrete blind area
Despite the emergence of more and more new options for the described design, consumers most often choose concrete options. Such systems are located on clay, which is laid 15 cm thick. If you have to work with heaving soil, then you can use an additional layer of sand, its thickness should be 8 centimeters. If you use concrete alone for work, the slab will quickly collapse. In this case, it is necessary to make expansion joints; they are located every three meters. For this you need to use wooden slats, which are pre-coated with bitumen. They need to be installed on an edge, concrete is laid between them. Another option for organizing seams is to use reinforcing mesh, which is laid with a large overlap. If you build a blind area at home with your own hands, then during its construction you can eliminate the possibility of water absorption by filling it with cement. At the next stage, the surface is covered with a wet cloth and everything is left in this state for 10 days. The system needs to be watered periodically. If you still cannot decide what type of blind area to use, then the use of concrete does not count the best option. This is due to the fact that this material is consumed in very impressive quantities when carrying out such work. In addition, the process will be very labor-intensive. The only advantage is that it will be possible to walk on the surface of the structure.
Soft blind area
If you are building a blind area with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions presented in the article will eliminate many mistakes. The concrete variety is only suitable for non-heaving soils. For disturbed soils it is preferable to use soft blind area. To do this, you need to lay clay around the foundation at a certain slope. Waterproofing is laid on top, which can be a film or glass insulation. The density of the first should be approximately 250-300 microns. The waterproofing needs to be covered with clay again, providing a layer of 1-10 cm. Fine gravel is placed directly over them.
Blind area with rubemast
If you are laying a blind area around the house with your own hands, you can use rubemast. First, formwork is installed, for which you should use edged board. The space inside is filled with sand. The trench should initially be compacted horizontally, while the sand is laid with some slope. It will need to be covered with rubemast, bending the excess onto the wall surface. A kind of trough needs to be filled with ASG to the top edge of the formwork. Next, paving stones are installed, which makes it possible to move along the surface.
Use of geotextiles
A do-it-yourself blind area, step-by-step instructions for which are presented in the article, can be arranged using geotextiles, which are used to exclude weeds. First you need to mark it and dig a trench at the required slope. Next, they cover it with geotextiles, the advantage of which is that it allows water to pass through, but does not allow weeds to germinate. It can be used for 20 years. It is necessary to roll out the material with some overlap on the foundation. The first layer of crushed stone must be filled using a fraction from 10 to 20. It is laid on geotextiles, the surface must be leveled with a rake. Next, a border is prepared, the height of which is 20 cm. It must be laid on sand cushion, to do this, pour on the edge of the blind area river sand. Interior the trenches should be filled with crushed stone, the layer of which is 10 centimeters.
Blind area in Finnish
Before you make a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to think about what technology will be used for this. Experts recommend using a drain pipe during the work process. This element must be laid along the perimeter of the foundation and then covered with gravel. It is important to provide the pipe with holes. Foam plastic is laid on top, it is important to ensure overlap, after which everything needs to be covered with soil. The pipe should be connected to drain wells. At a distance of 40 cm from the foundation you need to pour crushed stone, and beautiful pebbles on top. Before you make a blind area around the house with your own hands, it is important to think about its practicality. Such a system will effectively drain water, and the foundation will not freeze, while cracks will not form on the system itself.
27.03.2016 0 CommentsThe blind area of a house during operation performs several functions - it protects the foundation from external influences, reduces wear of the main structure. Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. It should be done at the last stages of construction, this will preserve the structural integrity of the foundation after the construction work is completed.
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Features of technology and functional tasks of the blind area
A properly organized blind area will durable design, and the installation process will not be too complicated and time-consuming. When all the nuances have been studied, it is very simple to correctly make a blind area around the house - it will not take much time, you can save on construction work. For a residential building it is necessary for the following reasons:
- Reliable protection of the foundation from precipitation (rain, snow) and other external climatic influences.
- Drainage through drainage system. Drainage gutters are installed in the blind area, with the help of which reliable protection of the foundation and plinth from moisture is ensured.
- Improved thermal insulation performance. If all layers are arranged correctly, if materials intended for thermal insulation are used, not only the ground floor will become warmer - the degree of freezing of the soil next to the house can be reduced.
- Aesthetics - have excellent decorative properties. The appearance of the building will be complete in architectural terms.
- It is possible for the blind area to perform practical functions - it will be used as a small path, surrounding the house around the entire perimeter. If there are plantings near the building, this design will allow you to move around the house without harming the plants.
What could the design be?
The process of building a blind area around the house begins with determining its structure, specific parameters, as well as external cladding. Most often it is made from the following materials:
- crushed stone;
- monolithic reinforced concrete structure;
- natural stone, paving stones, paving slabs.
How to make a blind area with your own hands if the foundation is columnar or floating? For them, the use of a combined drainage system is allowed. Whatever the materials and design of the blind area, it will be multi-layered, and long service life can only be ensured if the appropriate construction standards are observed. In most cases, the design will consist of the following parts:
- base (bottom layer used as bedding for the rest);
- materials with good waterproofing properties to protect against moisture;
- layer with drainage structures for water disposal;
- two outer layers, the first of which is protective, and the second is decorative.
Preparation for construction
When building a blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will help you carry out all stages of construction correctly. The first stage is preparatory, when all design parameters are determined, including material and dimensions. The main indicator is the width of the strip - according to the recommendations, it should be no less than 60 centimeters. Before final choice project, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that can affect its overall dimensions:
- Features of the roof, cornices, reach. Make the blind area 20-30 centimeters longer than the roof extension.
- Architectural and design features of the building. If the house design has architectural elements with a broken or rounded shape, the design of the blind area can be made appropriate by organizing a connection with other buildings and design elements of the adjacent area.
- Type of soil at the site of construction of the blind area. If the soil is characterized by a significant degree of subsidence, optimal width- at least 90 centimeters or even 1 meter. Width more than a meter - high efficiency drainage and the possibility of using it as a circular path.
The main condition is that the design of the blind area must be such that the foundation of the house and the base receive reliable protection from moisture (continuous design).
Definition of slope
High quality and reliable design obtained by observing the requirements for the slope, as this will ensure reliable drainage of water. The slope of the blind area of the house to the ground, according to recommendations, is from 1.5 to 5 degrees. Exact value determined based on the climate in the region and the decorative coating used. If the main material is crushed stone, the structure will require greater slope blind areas than when using paving stones or paving slabs. You can form an angle initially (by placing the base with a slope), or already when working with decorative coating– the last outer layer.
Construction Materials
When all the features of the project have been determined, you can begin to calculate the amount of building materials, as well as select the appropriate tools and other construction equipment. In all cases, the bedding layer must contain sand and crushed stone. For certain types of soil, it is recommended to use clay in the bedding, which at the same time acts as a means of waterproofing. Most often, the blind area is made as a solid monolithic design made of concrete, for effective preparation the solution cannot be done without a concrete mixer, containers for it, as well as reinforcing metal reinforcement.
Concrete preparation
To make the blind area strong and reliable, it is necessary to use concrete grades M250 - M350, but sometimes a higher class is chosen. The classic composition for pouring a blind area is 8.5 parts, of which 3 are sand, 4 are crushed stone, 1 are cement and 0.5 are water. Cement and water are mixed in a concrete mixer until a homogeneous mixture is obtained - a connector for crushed stone and sand. The remaining components of the mixture are poured portionwise into a concrete mixer; in this case, the materials are distributed evenly.
It is necessary to control the moisture content so that the mixture does not turn out to be too liquid. Water should saturate the cement well, but pour it only as much as is needed for soaking. The larger the crushed stone, the lower the ratio of the amount of water and other components (optimal crushed stone fractions are from 0.5 to 2 centimeters). Before adding to the solution, sand is sifted and washed to eliminate impurities.
Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete blind area
The monolithic structure is reliable and durable, well protects the main structures of the house from the destructive effects of moisture. It is not difficult to make such a blind area with your own hands, and therefore it is considered the most common. The sequence of actions is as follows:
Final stages of work
Laying of all internal layers is completed after drying concrete mortar. To make the blind area high-quality, it is necessary to ensure a uniform drying rate of the solution without additional funds. Drying too quickly can lead to the formation of cracks, which will disrupt the waterproofing properties of the blind area, making them of lower quality and durability.
To prevent the concrete from drying out quickly, cover it with film or a wet cloth. The structure will be completely ready for operation only after 15-20 days, and that’s when you need to start finishing. The most common materials for decorative blind areas are ceramic tile and porcelain stoneware. You can use special compounds that will combine protective and decorative properties.
Arranging a blind area is not one of those types of work that can only be trusted to professionals. DIY blind area following the step-by-step instructions given above can be done quickly and without additional costs. The total cost will only include the price of materials and tools.
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The blind area is a reinforced concrete belt around the foundation that carries more meanings than just a decorative function. This is, first of all, protecting the base of the object from all kinds of seasonal manifestations and the vagaries of the soil. Before installation, it is important to understand its structure, choose the best building materials and begin work immediately after the completion of the house, thereby initially extending its service life.
What function does the blind area perform?
Monolithic foundation is subject to destructive actions natural factors– excess moisture, freezing, mechanical damage as a result of soil swelling. The blind area is designed to reduce manifestations to a minimum - it is impossible to get rid of the consequences completely.
Tasks reinforced belt are as follows:
- Removal of thawed, rain or flood waters from the basement of the house. Short-term interaction will not harm the concrete, unlike stagnation. Without a blind area, constantly wet concrete begins to crumble, exposing the reinforcement, which, in turn, becomes covered with corrosion, and accordingly, the rigidity of the frame is lost.
- Maintaining foundation temperatures without significant drops during peak winter temperatures. The part of the foundation located underground must remain in a stable condition. This is greatly facilitated by the construction of a layer above the ground - a blind area. Even at the stage of pouring the main platform, care should be taken to insulate it.
- Stopping ground movements. Depending on the terrain and the chosen type of foundation, the object will experience stresses associated with the vagaries of the soil - shifting layers, changing the level of the aquifer, swelling or subsidence. The blind area will reduce negative manifestations.
- And, of course, decorative advantage blind areas. With her, the house looks finished. As a rule, it is lined with decorative stone, tiles, and basement siding.
It’s easy to do the work yourself, without involving expensive specialists.
Construction and calculation of the blind area
The scheme for pouring a reinforced belt around the house is simple and similar to the construction of the foundation. It consists of the following: a ditch with compacted shock-absorbing layers of sand and crushed stone, a reinforcing rod for connection with the base of the house and the strength of the concrete of the blind area, the actual pouring itself and subsequent cladding.
Technical calculations for the future diversion site are based on the following:
- The width of the concrete strip extending outside the house is calculated depending on the protrusions eaves overhangs. A minimum of 20 cm is added to their length. By designing the corresponding points, the size of the blind area is obtained.
- The depth of the ditch is determined by the shock-absorbing layers, each of which must be at least 10 cm + 20 cm for concrete below and above the ground.
- The angle of inclination of the blind area is 1.5–2 degrees. To navigate without the use of special tools, a point 10 cm high is marked on the foundation and smoothed to 0 to the end of the width of the concrete strip.
- After completion of all work, the blind area is equipped with drainage - a gutter with drain pipe, going into sewer hatch or waste tray.
How to make a blind area with your own hands step by step instructions
An important condition for work is that it is carried out before the first frost + time for setting and hardening.
Tools required:
- Construction mixer. If it will be used only once, then there is no point in purchasing a factory product. In this case, it is rented. It is undesirable to mix concrete in batches, since intermittent work is fraught with delamination. Besides, it's just backbreaking work.
- Tools for earthworks- shovels, picks, crowbars.
- Level, trowel, paint brushes, spatulas.
- Containers for solution and water.
Required materials:
- Components cement mortar– amateurs are recommended to purchase dry ready-made mixtures, otherwise there is rice with the wrong proportions.
- Boards for formwork, fasteners.
- Reinforcing rod or finished mesh.
- Sand and crushed stone.
- Herbicides may also be required - substances that control vegetation on the site; ridding it of moisture storage is absolutely necessary.
Soil preparation
The ditch for the blind area is dug manually. Such actions will not damage the main foundation of the house. If the platform has not yet been properly insulated and waterproofed, now there is a reason to make the necessary protection. In addition, the foundation is rarely left without cladding and laying additional layers is commonplace.
Insulation and waterproofing
- Dry the base thoroughly after removing the thickness of the soil.
- The surface of the concrete is coated with molten bitumen and, without waiting for it to dry, the styrene slabs are “glued.”
- Also put on top thick layer bitumen, paying special attention to seams and joints.
- At the junction, coating with bitumen should be carried out several times when the previous layer is completely dry. The thickness of the waterproofing material will form expansion joint and with possible movements of the fault soil concrete surfaces won't happen.
Excavation
The ditch is compacted. For this they use special tool or a wide board. The first layer to shock-absorb the structure will be sand; it will also be thoroughly compacted, having previously been moistened with water. Then crushed stone. It is better to purchase screenings - its small fractions will lie tightly, and the blind area will receive the greatest strength.
Reinforcement of the blind area
No gain, none concrete product will not withstand loads. That's why reinforced mesh or a personally cut and tied rod is placed on a crushed stone surface. For reliability, the wire for the bundle is pierced through the thickness of the mineral layers, thus securing it in the ground.
The cross-section of the formwork rod should not be less than 10 mm. And in the case of a significant height of the blind area to the foundation wall - from 12 mm. For complete unity with the common platform, a groove is selected in the walls and pieces of reinforcement are inserted inside.
The total amount of reinforcement is determined individually depending on the width and size of the blind area. If a network is used, then there is no need to be tricky with the step of installing the rods - the reinforcement is simply laid over the entire area. Individual rods are spaced at a distance of 20 cm and more often if the structure is impressive.
Formwork installation
Since the angle of inclination of the blind area is small, you should not be afraid that the thickness of the concrete will go to the outside of the box - the solution is mixed plastically, but not liquid. The formwork itself consists of panels of equal height. They are installed with temporary supports - pegs - supporting the wet mass. The height of the shields must be sufficient so that the solution does not go beyond the contours. In the form of beacons, slats are stuffed onto the edges of the formwork - they will help to maintain required level fills.
Pouring the blind area
Having determined the speed of your own work, you can begin kneading in small portions. When the consistency is satisfactory, the solution is transferred into the formwork in buckets. Pour carefully, without disturbing the crushed stone layer and reinforcing mesh. To make sure that the blind area will not cause delamination, the thickness is pierced reinforcing rod, expelling the air. This is how all the work is done.
After complete filling, the surface is smoothed and poured over the course of a week. cold water. The appearance of white foam on concrete means that the mass has completely sunk. After this, the blind area is left alone until it sets completely.
Drainage device
A ditch is dug along the edge of the blind area and drainage trays are placed in it, so that plastic or metal products are not visible along the horizon line. They are covered with lids, and movement along own plot will become safe.
Can also be used PVC pipes, cut in half, however, factory-made products with perforation are comfortable and look decent. There is no need to worry about outlet pipes - only one is needed for direct discharge of wastewater into the sewer or storm drain.
It's worth thinking about electric heating trays or gutters - during periods of snowfall and ice melting, congestion from precipitation is not uncommon, which causes flooding of areas and, accordingly, the interaction of the concrete mass with moisture.
Decorative cladding
When the main work has been completed, you should think about how to adequately present the blind area structure. Most often, owners of private houses use for this purpose paving slabs. It is easy to install, has a rich palette, and is inexpensive. With it, the foundation of the house and the object itself will acquire a presentable and dignified appearance.
It is important to select a combination of tones. Ceramics, asphalt, decorative rock. Depending on your financial capabilities, you choose your own option.
