home > Crafts > Imitation timber cladding. Sheathing the house with imitation timber. With proper installation and care of the coating, imitation timber will serve for a long time without losing its positive properties and beauty

Imitation timber cladding. Sheathing the house with imitation timber. With proper installation and care of the coating, imitation timber will serve for a long time without losing its positive properties and beauty

Raised timber is a natural finishing material that has many advantages and relatively few disadvantages. One of the arguments in favor of this material is that imitation timber cladding does not cause difficulties even for non-professionals.

House lined with false beams

Imitation of timber is a technique for finishing buildings outside and inside. The material used in it is called false timber, or timber simulator. These are facing panels made of natural wood, a type of lining.

The material is used for cladding walls inside and outside the building, as well as for decorating the ceiling. Panels are also used in frame construction.

False beam

The material differs from eurolining:

lack of recess on the front side (the so-called shelf);
large width and thickness;
maximum resemblance to a wall made of timber, which is why it received its name.

Eurolining

Prices for various types of lining

Facing with false timber has many advantages:

after finishing, the building looks as if it was made of natural wood, and even a specialist will distinguish the imitation from the original only upon close examination;
during interior decoration, it hides uneven walls, allows you to hide wiring and other communications;
protects the walls of old buildings from atmospheric influences;
has heat-saving and noise-reducing properties;
creates a comfortable microclimate because it is made from natural materials;
It is simply mounted on the walls, so its installation does not require special knowledge.

Wood must be well impregnated with insecticides to protect it from pests

Thanks to these properties, false beams are often used for cladding old houses. In this case, the original material of the walls does not matter. These can be foam, gas, cinder blocks, bricks and even rounded logs that need restoration.

But imitation timber also has disadvantages that should also not be overlooked. It is necessary that the material is well impregnated with antiseptics and insecticides. Otherwise, moisture will quickly destroy it, and insect pests can spoil the lining. Treatment should be carried out regularly when the previous layer expires. Detailed data on the validity period of the composition are indicated in the instructions for the drug. Fire protection will also be required, since natural wood burns well.

Form of false beam

Unlike a convex blockhouse, with which false beams are often compared, it has a flat surface. Chamfers are cut along the edges at an angle of 45°. After connecting adjacent planks, barely noticeable seams remain, but not the same as with eurolining. Rather, they resemble “calm” lining.

Block house on the cut

From the back side, 1 to 3 ventilation ducts are cut out, which run along the entire length of the beam.

Reference. Previously, domestic enterprises produced wood planking without these grooves. This led to the fact that over time the timber became severely deformed due to temperature fluctuations, swelled, and cracks formed in the wood. The wood was susceptible to rotting due to excessive exposure to moisture.

The false block has the same lock as other types of lining

The edges of the lamellas have a spike on one side and a groove on the other. These are the connecting elements of the timber. The tongue-and-groove lock solves several problems at once:

makes the cladding windproof;
increases sound insulation properties;
strengthens the skin.

Prices for various types of false beams

False beam

How to choose false timber?

When choosing false beams, pay attention to the following characteristics:

size;
type of wood;
variety.

Raised beams are classified according to grades, sizes, wood species

Dimensions

The timber is produced in different sizes, which allows you to choose the most suitable option for your purposes:

length - 2.5–6 m;
width - 1.10–18.5 cm;
thickness - 1.6–3.5 cm.

For exterior finishing, wider boards are used.

Block house prices

Block house

Which tree species are better?

False beams are made from different breeds trees.

The timber is produced in different sizes

Conifers

This is one of the most popular tree species in home decoration. The most accessible products are made from pine. Spruce is also used, but the tree is quite knotty, which is a disadvantage, although it is more resistant to moisture. The advantage of the latter is its uniform color. Therefore, on spliced beams, the seams are hardly noticeable. Pine, unlike spruce, turns yellow over time.

However, Angara pine is already a premium type of wood. She has high density, there are almost no knots in it. The same can be said about Altai cedar. The timber made from it has a beautiful pattern. But a much more significant plus is strength and weather resistance.

Photo 9. False timber made of pine

Larch remains the leader in wear resistance and consumer characteristics. It is especially often used for external cladding. After all, its resin contains natural antiseptic substances. Because of them, the wood is not susceptible to rotting.

Hardwood

Linden, oak - a couple of trees from which false beams are most often made. However, their uses are different. Linden is most often used to decorate saunas and baths, since it does not have the necessary strength. Moreover, under the influence sunlight it takes on a yellowish tint.

Oak has the best performance characteristics. In terms of hardness it is second only to ebony. In addition, it is resistant to all atmospheric influences.

Aspen is used to imitate timber, but quite rarely. Its core is susceptible to rotting. Therefore, they only make thin lining out of it. It is used for covering steam rooms.

Linden and aspen are often used for baths and saunas

An analogue of false beams is a block house - an imitation of rounded logs.

When choosing false timber, you need to consider where exactly it will be used. Larch and cedar are not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms. They give off a rather pungent odor. This can cause headaches and worsen asthma. In summer cottages you can use inexpensive pine and spruce. Panels made from these materials are also suitable for the bedroom. In the living room it is better to use oak and cedar.

The lighting of the room also matters. If the lighting is dim, then light types of wood are suitable - pine, linden. For southern rooms choose darker oak and alder.

Variety

Table 1. Types of false beams

Variety	Characteristics
Extra	Smooth surface, no growth, rot, or wormholes. Knots are only embryos, no more than one per linear. m. End cracks of 30x0.5 mm, tar cracks of up to 20x3 mm, as well as wane and non-string, which are not visible during assembly, are allowed.
A	There are no falling knots, no signs of rotting or damage to the wood by insects. Healthy knots - no more than 35 mm. There may be growth, tar marks, cracks at the end, chips on the ridge and bottom of the groove, blue, but not more than 10% of the surface and 10% of the batch. It may be difficult on the reverse side
B	There should be no rot, dead knots up to 10 mm. No more than 3 wormholes per panel (no more than 5% in the party). Porosity, tar patches, and wane hidden after installation are not considered critical. Blueness and fading (up to 10% coverage), as well as poor color underneath, are not considered defective.
C	There may not only be dead knots, but also holes. Longitudinal cracks up to 30x3 mm are acceptable. Boards with wormholes, sprouts, resin pockets, and rot, which do not affect the hardness of the board, are not rejected. The category does not exclude planing defects in any part and invisible wane. Are used only under opaque coatings.

Reference. Extra grade products are extremely rare on the market. Usually sellers pass off grade A as extra.

AB category products

Masters identify another intermediate class - AB, although they do not set standards for this category. Boards of this class are opened with varnish, wax, and paint.

How to install imitation timber on the facade of a building

Installation of false beams is carried out in several stages.

Video - How to install imitation timber

Preparing the base

Regardless of what material is used for the construction of the building, the foundation is prepared according to the same scheme:

Removed from work surface the remaining solution is cleaned of dust.
Do waterproofing layer. The materials used must match the building material of the wall. For brick and concrete, coatings or impregnations are used, for wood - films. The canvases are secured from below. When changing the fabric, make an overlap of at least 15 cm wide. Glue individual canvases with tape.

Walls are protected with waterproofing agents

The preparatory process is now complete. If coating and impregnating materials are used at this stage, the work will have to be postponed for some time. This is necessary for the solutions to act or set. The exact drying time and penetration into the building material are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

Lathing

This is the frame to which the false beam will be attached. The lathing consists of individual bars with a side of at least 5 cm. It is recommended to select lumber depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

If the wall is originally brick or concrete, frame dowels will be required for fastening; for a wood base - nails and screws. Craftsmen do not recommend using fasteners with plastic dowels.

On flat wall the sheathing bars are attached closely to it. If there are irregularities and gaps form, the voids are filled with linings.

Attention! Linings should be made of synthetic materials, not wood. This material tends to dry out. There is a possibility that during the operation of the finish, a backlash will form and its quality will decrease.

The guide bars are positioned and secured in the corners, strictly observing the vertical, for which a level is used.
Stretch the cord from one corner to another and secure it to the corner bars.
The remaining beams are fastened and maintained at a distance of 50-80 cm, which depends on the width of the sheet of heat-insulating material.
Lay thermal insulation.
A moisture-proof film is laid over the sheathing.

Often slats up to 3 cm thick are attached to the sheathing. This is necessary so that an air gap is formed between the heat-insulating layer and the false beam. This measure enhances ventilation and extends the life of the wood finish.

Fastening false beams

Before installation, the wood for cladding is removed from the packaging. They do not take the material to work immediately, but wait several days. This way the timber will absorb moisture from the air, so no distortions will form after installation.

Different types of fasteners and methods of their use

Install the panels from bottom to top. One of the fasteners is used:

Using a self-tapping screw, the board is attached to the sheathing through the ridge. Sometimes the screw goes directly through the board. Then it is inserted so that the head is flush with the face of the beam. The recess is then hidden with putty or wooden plugs, sawdust and varnish.
A galvanized nail is driven into the ridge. At vertical installation it is also passed through the groove, hammering at an angle of about 45° until the head disappears.
Claymer is a reliable and convenient fastening clip consisting of a bracket. One end is located on the sheathing, the other holds the panel by the groove. The gluers themselves are nailed to the base with galvanized nails.

The false beams are fastened in the following order:

Place the starting board with the ridge up using horizontal level and attached using the selected fasteners. The tenon cannot be directed upwards - this will cause water to collect in the groove. This causes cracks to appear on the board, mold to form, and the wood to rot.
Place the tongue of the second board in the groove of the first. Using a hammer, plant the second board, but not closely, but with a gap of 5 mm. This distance is necessary to avoid deformation of the elements due to temperature fluctuations.
Repeat steps 1, 2 until you reach the top.

After installing all panels, the surface is coated with the selected product.

Attention! In the corners of the beams, cuts are made at an angle of 45° for an aesthetic connection of parts. Decorative strips can also be applied. They not only hide the joints, but are also a decorative detail in the cladding.

Installation of imitation timber indoors

The installation of timber indoors is almost the same as on the façade of a building. If the panels are laid vertically, then work begins from window to door. Interior panels are too thin. Therefore, the fastening method, in which a self-tapping screw is screwed into the tenon at an angle of 45°, is considered too rough. For such work it is recommended to use furniture nails.

Pros and cons of imitation timber

Perhaps the most difficult thing is installing panels on the ceiling. Since a large load on the hands is created, for such work it is recommended to take materials with the smallest width. In addition, too wide a beam will visually reduce the ceiling area. The length is chosen so that there are fewer joints.

In stone buildings, the insulation is placed on a vapor barrier material. This material should not be used in wooden houses, as this will only provoke the formation of excess moisture and lead to rotting of the wood.

Decorative overlay for the corner of the building

The procedure for installing timber to the ceiling

Some houses already have wooden beams on the ceiling. In this case, there is no need to do the lathing. It is enough to use a vapor barrier layer.

But sheathing will still be required if the beams have uneven surface. In other cases, first, base bars with a thickness of 2-3 cm. Next, you need to protect communications if they pass along the ceiling. Then the ceiling is insulated if there is a need. Next, work is carried out as when installing external finishing. The beam is mounted from the window.

False beam on the ceiling

Raised beam protection

Before installation, the material is treated with protective compounds. Insecticides are used for this. These preparations protect wood from the most dangerous pests - bark beetles, shashel, longhorned beetles, etc. Treatment against mold, mildew, and fire retardants is necessary. The sequence in which treatment must be carried out is indicated in the instructions for the preparations.

Transparent coatings

To protect wood from moisture and other harmful effects, opaque coatings are used - for example, wax-based oils, varnishes.

Oil-wax has some advantages over varnishes:

the product does not emit toxic substances;
can even be used in a children's room;
allows the tree to breathe;
does not spoil the structure of the tree;
penetrates deep between the fibers and protects the boards from the inside;
Contains no aggressive solvents.

This coating can be tinted and give the wood a darker shade.

Working with wax is easy and safe

As for varnishes, any are suitable for street work. For internal ones, it is better to choose water-based products. Its heat resistance will not be superfluous, especially with increased risks of fire.

Video - Waxing wood

Known and home recipe wax coating. To prepare it you will need:

beeswax - 9 parts;
carnauba wax - 1 part;
turpentine (gasoline can be used) - 90 parts.

The safest materials for painting timber are considered to be linseed oil, gum turpentine, and colophon resin, better known as rosin.

Rosin - a natural wood protectant

Prices for wood preservatives

Impregnation for wood

How to apply wax to timber

Work on applying wax is performed in the following order:

Repair cracks and imperfections. If necessary, level the surface of the timber with a grinding machine or sandpaper.
Wipe the surface, remove debris and dust.
Wax-oil is applied with a brush. Excess is removed with a dry, lint-free cloth.
Allow the composition to dry.
Polish the surface with a piece of cotton cloth.

Opaque coatings

Opaque coatings are also suitable for painting. Such products provide protection, but at the same time they also hide the imperfections of the material. These include enamels, water-dispersion and acrylic paints. Before painting with such products, the wood is treated with a primer - for example, drying oil. This will reduce the consumption of paint and varnish products.

Imitation of timber is an easy way to make your home attractive and extend its lifespan. At correct installation and subsequent proper care, the cladding will last for many years.

Cladding a house with imitation timber can be used for cladding walls made of a variety of materials, both external and internal, including for winter caracas houses.

The building, lined with imitation timber on the outside, looks like a solid wooden house, built from the present solid timber With flat surface and rounded edges.

What is imitation timber

Imitation timber (false timber) is a facing material in the form wood panels, similar to lining, but wider and thicker. To fasten adjacent boards during installation, a tongue-and-groove system is used. The thickness of the panels is most often from 1.6 to 3.6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm and a length of 200 to 600 cm in half-meter increments. But other dimensions may also occur.

This material can be used to cover walls made of:

Trees
Brick
Brusa
Foam blocks
Gas blocks
Cinder blocks
Monolithic concrete

Installation

Having repair and construction work, you can mount the imitation yourself, provided that all technologies for covering a house with imitation timber are followed. It is recommended that the facing material be kept for about a week in the atmospheric environment where it will be installed. This is necessary to ensure that the humidity of the panels is equal to the humidity of the local environment.

Installation steps for cladding external walls:

Attaching the vapor barrier
Installation of sheathing
Laying insulation
Fastening wind and moisture protection
Installation of counter-lattice
Installation of cladding
Cladding processing

Vapor barrier

For vapor barrier, you can use glassine, waterproofing or other similar material. The sheets are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The rolls are attached to the top of the wall. To do this, you can use aluminum tape or another acceptable method.

It’s not scary if the material does not fit tightly to the walls - it will subsequently be pressed against the lathing structure. To ensure the integrity of the insulation, breaks and joints are taped with tape.

Lathing

The sheathing is made of dry timber. It is recommended to pre-treat the bars with bioprotective and fire retardant compounds. The thickness of the block is selected to match the thickness of the insulating material, but not less than 3 cm. Any material can be used for insulation. Familiarize yourself in advance with expanded polystyrene, etc.

The sheathing beams are fixed at a distance of no more than one meter from one another so that the false timber strips lie flat. The size of the gap between the beams is selected depending on the width of the heat-insulating sheets. The sheathing elements are installed strictly vertically in level.

The bars are attached:

Or with frame dowels - to concrete, foam concrete, brick
Either with self-tapping screws or nails - to wood

Insulation

The insulation is installed between the sheathing elements. It can be secured in the following ways:

Special dowels-nails for thermal insulation
Knitting wire
Nylon twine

Moisture-proof membrane

A wind-moisture-proof membrane protects thermal insulation from street moisture. You can use isospan or other material with similar properties. The sheets are glued together overlapping with double-sided tape and attached to the sheathing with staples using a furniture stapler. The joints are taped with aluminum tape.

And if you are still dreaming of your own large and cozy home, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with chalet houses made of timber. Find out all the advantages of such structures.

Imitation timber - interior finishing

When finishing the interior, insulation may not be installed.

Lathing bars can be used with a small thickness. They are installed at a distance of 60-70 cm. You can also use a galvanized profile, which is used for installing drywall.

Imitation timber can also be mounted on the ceiling. To do this, you need to use thin strips. It is recommended to paint them before installing them in place - this will reduce the labor intensity of the work.

In principle, indoors, if the base is flat, you can do without lathing and save interior space. But with the help of lathing you can:

Hide communication wires
Achieve some insulation of the room due to the air layer between the wall and the cladding

You cannot paint false beams in a heated room immediately after installation. You need to wait 3-4 weeks. After the panels dry out, small cracks may form in them, which will damage the varnish or paint.

If the imitation timber is installed in compliance with all technology requirements, it will provide an excellent appearance to the lined surface and will last for many years.

Video on how to sheathe a house with imitation timber

Modern production technology finishing materials has reached the level that the imitation surface of any natural materials (wood, stone) so accurately conveys the texture of natural elements that it can only be distinguished upon close examination.

This applies not only external cladding, but also internal. Imitation timber can be made from high-quality wood, from different types of wood. Accordingly, the texture and color of analogues of timber finishing may differ from each other.

Wooden cladding gives the room the comfort and coziness characteristic of natural materials.

First of all, natural wood meets the requirements for environmental friendliness and natural design of the room. Wood promotes a feeling of comfort and unity with nature. Country house, lined with natural wood on the inside, will mentally protect you from gray stone city buildings and help you feel the comfort and warmth of nature. It is especially important to decorate cold and gray brick or block walls.

WITH practical point vision, timber finishing is strong and durable, has good sound insulation and thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, thanks to the specific design of lumber boards, a comfortable environment is created both in the space between the wall and the finish, and in the room itself.

Installation of wooden panels is not difficult, and the visual perception is no less impressive than with natural timber walls.

Types of interior finishing

Separation of finishing according to method and nature interior design depends on the design solution, which involves interior cladding with wood panels.

The imitation timber finish is divided into two types:

monolithic. It involves finishing with wooden panels over the entire surface of the room: floor, ceiling, walls. The panels are tightly attached to each other and form a monolithic covering;
combined. This type provides finishing different parts premises various materials, the main area of which is occupied by imitation timber, and additional zones are decorated with other finishing materials suitable in style and color (wallpaper, tiles, plaster).

Regardless of what type of finishing is chosen for the timber, you should purchase additional finishing parts (moldings, cornices, corners) along with the panels, which will add completeness and decorativeness to the design.

Preparation of lumber

The material for interior finishing must meet the following parameters:

wood quality class must be at least B (A, AB or Extra);
the optimal width of the board is 10-15 cm. Narrow boards will look more like clapboard than timber, and boards that are too wide will “steal” the space of the room, which is especially ineffective for small rooms;
using a thick board is not advisable: the best option there will be a 21 mm board (or even thinner).

In addition to the size, you should pay attention to the wood from which the board is made. For an unheated room, you can use wood of any species, the main thing is that the board is treated with protective moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

For a warm room it is recommended to use mainly wood hardwood. Due to the presence of resins in coniferous wood, the release of pine resin and the corresponding aroma is not always appropriate indoors, especially if the residents are allergic.

For steam rooms or baths, it is advisable to use a linden timber finish.

The durability and appearance of the finish depends on the quality of the material and wood.

You should not skimp on materials, as quality panels under timber can serve for many years without additional maintenance.

The boards must be well dried and stored in a dry, heated room.. Before installation, the boards should be unpacked and moved for several days to the place where they will be installed so that the material adapts to the environment of the room. Some types of lumber require additional sanding and treatment with special impregnations. It is advisable to carry out the treatment of the boards before installation, and then cover them with varnish or a special stain.

How to calculate the amount of material

By the width of the timber board you can determine the actual quantity material necessary for finishing the room from the inside.

It is necessary to determine the total surface area for cladding: calculate the area of each wall (minus openings), ceiling and floor. The area of each surface is divided by the area of one board.

This is how the quantity for each plane is calculated. All obtained indicators are added up. This way you can understand how many boards are required to cover the entire room. This method involves calculating the material for a monolithic coating.

If it is planned to use combined cladding, then a calculation is made of each plane that will need to be decorated with a board under the timber, and the amount of material is calculated in a similar way: each area is divided by the area of the board, the indicators for all planes are added up.

NOTE!

The number of elements needed for cladding should be purchased with some reserve, taking into account defective or damaged boards.

Preparing the surface for installation

How to sheathe walls from the inside? Before installing the sheathing and the panels themselves, you should prepare the walls.

All walls under the panels need:

clear away debris;
level as much as possible;
wooden walls should be treated with antiseptic compounds, and block and brick walls should be primed.

After the surface is ready, a vapor barrier is laid, and, if necessary, thermal insulation and lathing for imitation.

Thermal insulation and vapor barrier

A vapor barrier film should be attached to the prepared surface to prevent the formation of condensation moisture inside the skin. To do this, the film is attached using a stapler (to wooden surface) or by means of sheathing beams (to brick or concrete surface) so that the smooth side of the vapor barrier is in contact with the wall.

Cover the entire surface for cladding with film. The seams of the film should be overlapped by 100 - 150 mm and secured with tape.

CAREFULLY!

The location of the vapor barrier film should be free, without tension.

Otherwise, the membrane may break through during the installation of sheathing or thermal insulation, as well as during the natural shrinkage of the walls of the house.

In some cases (in the absence external thermal insulation at home) installation of thermal insulation materials is required. In this case, when calculating the sheathing pitch, not only the length of the cladding board under the timber is taken into account, but also the width of the insulation. Roll or block insulating material is placed tightly between the sheathing guides without gaps or joining holes.

Do-it-yourself selection and installation of lathing

For a wooden house, it is advisable to use wooden blocks with a cross-section of 40 - 50 mm. The wood should be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptic and moisture-resistant agents. Metal profiles are used for installation of cladding in concrete or brick walls.

Installation of the sheathing is carried out by attaching the guides in a vertical position in increments of 600 to 800 mm.

Corner guides should be mounted in such a way that there are two bars at each corner.

When installing the sheathing, you should check the uniformity of installation using a level.

In addition to double corner strips, you should additionally install bars in places where shelves or other hanging elements are attached that can weigh down the structure.

The wiring should be pulled between the sheathing, insulated with a special corrugated tube.

Having completed the sheathing over the entire area, you should begin installing the facing panels.

How to fasten timber indoors

Boards under timber for internal cladding can be attached in several ways:

fastening into a groove. The method differs in that the heads of the hardware are in a hidden position. The screws are screwed into the base of the tenon at an angle of 45°. When installed correctly, fasteners screwed flush with the beam will be securely hidden;
driving in elements from the outside. The nails should be driven on top of the board. To do this, it is recommended to use decorative hardware with original caps, or use special plugs, sometimes putty with shavings is used.
use of clasps. The most optimal method of fastening panels. More details in the video below.

Installation using clamps can be done on walls, but most effectively on the ceiling. Galvanized clamps in the form of brackets are attached to the board; they are the connecting elements between the panels. Fastening with clamps is used most often.

Wall paneling

The technology for installing panels under timber involves a sequence of steps (photo below):

stepping back from the corner no more than 50 mm, you should install the first panel, then the first row;
It is recommended to install the boards with the tenons facing up;
a small gap should be left between panels(up to three millimeters) for thermal expansion;
when designing openings, corners and windows, the verticality of the cuts should be controlled;
installation of panels is carried out from bottom to top along each plane;
After installing the main panels, transitions from one plane to another should be made using skirting boards.

NOTE!

The panel should be fastened strictly perpendicular to the sheathing.

It is most effective to fasten boards using clamps: the fastening elements are hidden, and the covering looks like a single sheet.

If it is necessary to coat the cladding with special protective and antiseptic agents, then choose compositions that match the wood and the nature of the room.

Thus, imitation timber will help make it a reality design solutions on creation natural interior indoors. Imitation timber is a durable coating, so you won’t have to think about decorating the inside of your home for several years: the panels will create warmth and comfort. If the cladding material is made of wood coniferous species, then in addition to comfort, the room will be saturated with the aromas of pine needles and forest.

Useful video

Master class on installing panels inside a building:

In contact with

Today on construction market There is a large number of finishing materials that can be used for both interior and exterior decoration. As great a variety as there is a great gap in product quality. After all, it is the quality and characteristics of the material that determines how work with it will be structured. And the service life of the finish will depend on the quality of the work performed. In order not to go through various options and not waste time on this, the LesoBirzha company offers you high-quality and environmentally friendly pure material, made from the best types of wood, which can be used for interior and exterior decoration of various buildings, as well as for construction in general.

We will talk about a very popular option for finishing with imitation timber and its correct fastening. This board gained its popularity due to its fairly easy installation method, unpretentiousness and, of course, visual effect. To understand this in more detail, let's look at how to work with a board and how to attach imitation timber in different options finishing.

Photo 1. Interior finishing with imitation timber

For interior decoration There are two types of panel installation:

Monolithic is when the walls and ceiling are completely covered with panels and a blank monolithic covering is created.

Combined - this is when various parts of the room are finished and combined with other finishing materials that are suitable in style, texture and color.

Photo 2. Wall covered with imitation timber

How to attach imitation timber to the wall?

Before attaching imitation timber inside the house, be sure to determine the microclimate of the room. This will help you choose the right type of wood. Depending on the characteristics of the species, wood behaves differently in rooms with different temperatures.
For interior decoration, medium-sized panels are better suited, for example, the width is 140 mm and the thickness is 21 mm. They will not visually “eat up” the room and will allow you to additionally save extra meters.
Sanding and processing of panels is one of the very important stages. This is usually done after installation is completed, but knowing from experience, we recommend that you carry out both grinding and processing at the very beginning. While the boards are not mounted, they can be easily painted on the end sides, which will help avoid further exploitation the appearance of untreated cracks on your wall or ceiling, which will affect wear resistance and aesthetic appearance.
After the panels are delivered to you from the warehouse, they must rest for 7-14 days in the very room where they will be installed. Any tree simply needs to “acclimatize” to new conditions.
Carefully prepare the walls (ceiling) of the house before attaching the imitation timber. The surface must be smooth, free of dirt and dust. If necessary, they need to be leveled or sheathed with sheet material. Then a vapor barrier is attached to the base, without tension.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from 30/40 timber, in increments of 50 - 60 cm. If you plan to insulate the room, then you will need a thicker cranial beam. The sheathing is attached perpendicular to the future location of the imitation beam. All sheathing bars must initially be treated with antiseptic solutions.
Installation of the panels begins from the floor, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm for free circulation of air. Also, when approaching the ceiling, do not forget to leave the same space. This will allow the tree to breathe and change its geometry.
The board is positioned with the tenon facing up and leveled using a level, which allows you to lay out subsequent panels evenly and easily. It is not recommended to join imitation timber end to end - leave 2-3 mm. When finishing all the walls in a room, it is recommended to lay row by row along the entire perimeter of the room, rather than each wall individually. When performing monolithic finishing, fastening the imitation timber to the wall is done first.
When laying horizontally, the question often arises - how to join imitation timber along the length? Experienced craftsmen advise cutting boards at an exact 45% degree. The joints need to be filed in different directions. If there are likely to be many joints on one wall, it is better to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. Of course, to be on the safe side and for more accurate joining results, it is better to entrust the undercuts to professional installations in the workshop.

Photo 3. Brushed imitation timber

General process We looked at the installation of imitation timber in great detail using the example of attaching it to the wall. This process applies to all other planes. If you are wondering how to attach imitation timber to the ceiling or how to properly attach imitation timber to the outside of a building, then all of the above information will help you.

Photo 4. Self-tapping screws for fastening imitation timber

There are only a few differences for the exterior decoration:

outside work is carried out only in warm time year or, if the work needs to be carried out in winter, then it is necessary to purchase a ready-made, protected from rapid loss of moisture or its gain, painted imitation timber;
at exterior decoration a layer of thermal insulation is always laid between the sheathing after the vapor barrier;
The fastening of the panels starts from the ground with the tenon facing up. This will prevent natural precipitation from getting into the joints between the panels.

There are three ways to attach imitation timber:

"into the face" (front part of the panel). When the self-tapping screw is screwed in using a screwdriver and a specialized bit, it goes straight into the board. This method is very reliable and during external finishing a stand-out element - the screw head - creates on the panels original design;
"into the groove". This is when the self-tapping screw is screwed into the groove of the panel, going deep into the wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This method allows you to securely fasten the panel and leave the groove space free, which allows the tenon of the next panel to be freely fastened;
fastening with (reinforced) clamps. It's pretty easy way in execution, it is very reliable, but carpenters often do not like to do it, believing that using screws will be faster.

Photo 5. Reinforced clamps

If you have any doubts that you will be able to install imitation timber yourself, then our experienced craftsmen ready to help you. We fasten the imitation timber with clamps and professional screwdrivers. We grind with high-quality machines and make painting work in the workshop.

By phone you can find out about the wider range of services that we provide in the field of wood finishing and construction.

lesobirzha.ru

how to avoid installation mistakes

When installing imitation timber, an important role is played by its correct execution, which guarantees a long service life.

An error made during installation can lead to serious consequences, including damage to the material without the ability to restore it.

By the way, the timber itself can be purchased profitably here.

To avoid this, instructions have been developed that will help you perform installation correctly.

Preparatory stage:

At the first stage, acclimatization of the material is carried out. To do this, the product is removed from packaging and remains indoors for several days.
Waterproofing must be installed, since wood products do not like excess moisture. It is better to use glassine, but other products with similar characteristics will work. Installation is carried out overlapping using aluminum tape.
Installation of sheathing. For this purpose they use wooden block at least 3 cm, which is installed on the walls using self-tapping screws or nails (for a brick or concrete wall, use a frame dowel). When installing thermal insulation, the thickness of the bars must be no less than the thickness of the insulation. The bars are installed in increments of 1 meter.
Wood processing. This item is required to be completed at the preparation stage and upon completion of installation. Regular maintenance ensures long-term use of the cladding.

Installation stages

Installation is carried out from bottom to top. The first boards must be laid very carefully using a level, which avoids uneven installation.
Fastening is done with the groove down. This measure will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the wood. During installation, do not forget about the correct gap: 2-3 mm, which is necessary as insurance against deformation of the product when exposed to temperature changes. There is also a gap left under the bottom and above the top board.
The use of self-tapping screws and clamps will keep the coating smooth and hide the fasteners, however, this approach does not allow space to be left, which can lead to the appearance of cracks in the event of a sharp increase in temperature. To avoid this, it is recommended to use nails that will allow you to leave the necessary space.
Sawing. To achieve a joint that is as inaccessible to the eye as possible, it is necessary to make a 45-degree undercut on both sides. You need to cut the boards in different directions. If the walls are too long, then a large number of joints appear, in which case it is necessary to arrange the boards in a checkerboard pattern.

myogorod.ru

several common mistakes. Part 2

Installation of imitation timber: several common mistakes. Part 2

There are a certain number of articles on the Internet about how to work with profiled lumber when covering walls. If you try to look for photos or videos of the installation of imitation timber, you can also get some clarity. However, in both cases, this does not guarantee us a problem-free expected result, since the information will not always be correct and comprehensive.

We already have a number of publications on eurolining, blockhouse and imitation timber, including current installation issues. But we decided to work on the mistakes. The first part of the article is already on the site, this is its continuation.

The casing after assembly bends greatly under load

This type of problem only arises when the proper balance has not been maintained between the scope of the material, the thickness of the planks and the size of the spans between the posts of the supporting frame. In order for the resulting plane to be absolutely reliable in difficult conditions, you need to buy imitation timber with a thickness of 28 or 35 mm. Such massive material is sometimes placed on facades. It also makes sense to use it on walls in high-traffic areas (for example, on a wall near flight of stairs), or when creating wooden fence Location on.

On the walls inside the house, an imitation of timber with a thickness of 20-18 mm is used. And for the ceiling it is worth ordering the lightest material – 16 mm thick. Under imitation timber 20X140 mm, 18X190 mm on the wall (and 16X140 mm on the ceiling), it is recommended to install load-bearing frame elements with a distance of no more than 600 mm.

Installation of a house using imitation timber

Internal installation of a house using imitation timber

Facing with imitation timber on the back side is wet

Each board of modern profiled lumber (primarily, here we include lining, blockhouse and false beams) has special grooves or grooves at the back for ventilation. However, if the walls of the cottage are made of “breathable” material, and the flow of water vapor from the premises to the outside is not stopped by anything, then moisture can fall out in the form of condensation on the back side of the façade cladding, moistening the insulation as well. Therefore, in such cases, after attaching the wind-hydroprotection sheets, a counter-lattice block with a cross-section from 40X40 mm to 50X70 mm is stuffed onto the frame.

The optimal size of the ventilation gap is determined by the size of the wall, usually from 35 to 70 mm. In any case, for normal convection it is still necessary to install supply (bottom) and exhaust (top) vents on the ventilation façade.

It is difficult to choose molding material for framing the outer corner

If the external walls were sheathed with imitation timber 35 or more millimeters thick, and adjacent planes were connected end-to-end, then, indeed, not everyone wooden corner will completely cover the resulting technological seam. We have for sale a corner with shelves of 50 mm and 60 mm, but not all sellers have such moldings at their disposal.

That is why sometimes the imitation timber cladding on the outer corners is adjusted to each other by cutting the boards at 45 degrees. If everything is done correctly, then additional work will be completely unnecessary, although this process is labor-intensive and slow.

There is another option when outside corner imitation timber is covered with a pair of fitted boards. The board used is planed edged, 90-100 mm wide. They are hiding her paint and varnish materials with the same shade as the planes, or clearly distinguished by color from the main, lighter skin.

Cladding a house with imitation timber

Framing the outer corner of the house

Nails and self-tapping screws do not hold the planks well and prick the imitation timber

First of all, you need to pay attention to selecting the length of the fasteners. According to the unwritten rule, the length of the hardware should be twice the thickness of the part that is under load. To fasten the sheathing (such as imitation timber), nails or self-tapping screws 50-60 mm long are suitable.

To prevent hardware from pricking the imitation timber strip, you should use nails/screws designed specifically for fastening sheathings. For example, these should be so-called “finishing” nails, which are equipped with a relatively thin shaft with a relief knurl and a very small head that can be easily sunk into the material with a hammer.

There are also special finishing screws that have a small head, a thin shaft, and a special thread and tip shape. The well-known “black” screws are not suitable for such purposes. In any case, fasteners must be selected with corrosion protection, for example, galvanized, copper-plated or galvanized.

It should be noted that the supporting frame must also have sufficient holding capabilities. If you use a very wet block to create the sheathing, then when it dries out, the fasteners will not have the same performance characteristics as before. Therefore, lumber for a frame for imitation timber must be, at a minimum, atmospherically dried, and perfect option– well dried in a chamber to 12-15 percent.

The purchased imitation timber was not enough to cover the walls

This happens when calculations of the required material are made only based on the general quadrature and the order is made with virtually no reserve. Practice shows that it is possible to take into account all the design nuances and minimize non-business waste only after calculating the quadrature on each specific plane separately, and, preferably, this should be done with the creation of drawings and a detailed cutting map.

You can also buy imitation timber in insufficient quantities due to the difference between the working width of the planks and the declared width. Imitation timber, like lining or blockhouse, has a tenon, which is hidden in a groove during work, so the data of 8-10 millimeters of each plank should not be taken into account.

Scheme of fastening imitation timber

Internal wall cladding with imitation timber

elka-palka.ru

8 secrets of imitation timber - "LESSHOP" LESSHOP

Imitation timber is a board made of various breeds wood (usually Angara pine or larch), planed on both sides, at the ends of which there are grooves and tongues that serve as fasteners and allow you to create smooth coating without visible gaps.

In fact, an imitation timber board can be compared with the well-known lining, but its size will be larger: thickness from 15 to 45 mm, width from 90 to 190 mm.

Photo of imitation timber:

Imitation of pine and larch timber: features of choice

Before purchasing building materials, the consumer is faced with the question: what type of wood to choose? To get the correct answer, you need to identify for yourself the characteristics that are appropriate for the construction of a particular engineering structure.

Imitation larch timber is ideal for exterior decoration of a building because it has a number of advantages, the main ones being strength, resistance to humidity and temperature changes, as well as protection from mold and mildew.

By choosing imitation timber (Angarsk pine), the consumer gets the most a budget option for interior decoration, has an attractive appearance, but is more susceptible to humidity and temperature fluctuations, so it is ideal for interior decoration.

Oak, linden, ash and other types of wood were not left out. Their positive properties are due to the characteristics of the tree itself. Thus, oak is the most durable material with a long service life; linden is ideal for decorating baths and saunas, as it does not heat up and does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture and heat. Therefore, before choosing one or another product, it is necessary to determine the type of engineering structure and its operating conditions.

What are the different types of wood?

When choosing wood building materials, you should pay attention to the varieties whose classification is indicated in GOST. They all differ in appearance and the presence of defects (knots, pockets with resin, cracks, and so on).

Thus, imitation timber from larch “Extra” is the highest quality product, practically free of defects and has an attractive appearance. However, such material is more expensive (the price of imitation larch timber per square meter is presented in the price list), since its production takes a lot of time, because not a single tree can completely eliminate all kinds of growths, therefore, only a small part of it becomes an elite class board .

The more visible defects, the lower the class of wood.

Features of caring for imitation timber

Every consumer wants the purchased building material to retain its quality characteristics for as long as possible. However, when it comes to natural materials, they often forget about proper care and preventive measures.

Thus, when interior finishing with imitation timber, the consumer must not only treat the wood with antiseptic agents and wax oils, but also maintain an optimal level of humidity in the room, which will significantly increase the service life of the product and maintain an attractive appearance for many years.

When exterior cladding of a house, the product must be treated with varnish in order to prevent rotting processes and protect against negative influences. environment.

Installation features

Guarantee long term service of the product is to comply with all rules of preparation for installation work, which are as follows:

Carrying out acclimatization of imitation wood boards. To do this, the building material is freed from packaging and left in the room where the work will take place in the future for at least one week.
Installation of a waterproofing layer. Wood does not like excessive moisture, which is why this measure is mandatory. For waterproofing, glassine (or its analogues) is used, which is overlapped using aluminum tape.
Installation of sheathing. It represents bars square section, made of wood, measuring at least 30 mm. When installing thermal insulation, the thickness of the bars must be no less than the thermal insulation layer. These products are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws or nails (provided that the walls are wooden), but if the walls are built of brick or foam concrete, then frame dowels are used. The fastening step should not exceed 1 meter.
Treatment of boards with antiseptic and protective substances. This measure will help increase the service life of products and protect against fungus and mold.

Now let’s look at the features of installing imitation timber lining:

The arrangement of the material is carried out from the bottom up. Required condition is to maintain the strict horizontality of the first boards, since the appearance of the entire structure depends on this. A level is used for checking, after which installation begins.
The boards are attached with the grooves down. This is done to prevent moisture from entering. The product is installed taking into account the deformation gap, which guarantees the safety of the coating during fluctuations in size due to exposure to moisture and temperature changes. The gap width is 2-3 mm, it is also left under the bottom and top boards.
Using nails at high temperatures. A smooth coating without visible fasteners can be obtained using self-tapping screws or clamps. However, these materials are fastened “tightly”, which can cause cracks when exposed to high temperatures. The way out of the situation will be nails, thanks to which some freedom is provided in the attachment points to imitate timber from pine or larch.
Sawing boards at a 45 degree angle at the joints. If one board is not long enough, it can be joined to another by filing the edges of the material, but please note that the boards must be cut in different directions. If there are a large number of connections, they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern - this will make the wall look better.

Buy imitation larch timber from the manufacturer

If you want to buy imitation timber in Moscow, then you should contact the LESSHOP company. We offer the product highest quality and, being a manufacturer, we guarantee low prices for imitation timber per m2 without the extra charges that intermediary companies are forced to make.

We use modern technologies and we handle the full production cycle ourselves, including drying and processing finished products, which ensures proper product quality without defects.

www.lesshop.ru

Painting and installation of imitation timber Finnish House

The imitation timber arrived in time for the May holidays and was stored inside the house. We also purchased 5 liters of Teknol 1881 primer and 20 liters of Nordica Eco 3330 paint.

I decided to prime and paint the first layer of paint on the ground. To a certain extent, this is more convenient, and besides, you are not dependent on the vagaries of nature.

Thanks to the lack of partitions inside, the entire house turned into a huge paint booth. An unpainted imitation was stored against one wall; in the center there were trestles on which boards were laid for painting and then transferred to the other wall, where they were stored for final drying.

8-10 boards were painted in one “batch”.

Primer 1881 was tinted to match the paint color to make it easier to understand where the surface was already primed and where it was not yet.

The 1881 primer itself, according to Teknos instructions, was diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. The sellers recommended not to dilute it, for better coating quality, but in this case the soil would have to dry for a very long time and with good summer temperature air at least +20g. And it's May outside.

After the primer had dried, the imitation timber was painted in the same way with Nordca Eco 3330 paint.

By the way, painting with paint is much easier than with primer. The entire imitation was painted in just 1.5 days, including smoke breaks.

The main painter was my wife, and I joined her only periodically.

In total, priming and painting took about 3.5 days of leisurely work by 1 person.

Facade sheathing and ventilation gap.

While my wife was painting, I was installing the sheathing. 25x50 bars obtained from 25x100 boards sawn lengthwise were used as lathing.

Some people think that such a gap is too small for normal ventilation. But the Scandinavians don’t think so, and lathing of this size is normal.

The most important thing when organizing a ventilation gap is not to forget about the principles of ventilation. The air must enter the gap from somewhere and go somewhere.

This is especially true for sheathing around openings - windows and doors. Often the sheathing there is made continuous, blocking the paths of air exit or inflow. Thus, we do not get a ventilation gap, but simply an air cavity.

When installing the sheathing, I checked the evenness of the plane using the 1.5 meter rule, following approximately the following rule - 3 adjacent slats should lie in a single plane, with a permissible difference of no more than 3-5mm.

This method, on the one hand, will allow you to avoid excessive perfectionism (well, I’m not a supporter of the fact that everything should be perfectly even down to mm 🙂), on the other hand, it will allow you to get a wall that is smooth enough for installing imitation timber.

Around the time the imitation timber was painted, the sheathing was ready. After a break of a couple of days to dry, I began installation.

Installation of imitation timber on the facade

It was decided to start installing the imitation timber from the bottom. At the same time, a dimensional model was previously drawn on the computer in order to understand where to nail the first board so that the last board would fit evenly under the rafters.

Roughly speaking, so that it doesn’t turn out that at the very top I have a space where the whole board no longer fits and I’ll have to cut it.

Below is the first row, approximately 20cm from the bottom edge of the foundation trim. This height was chosen rather for aesthetic reasons for the future lining of the basement space decorative panels.

The imitation timber was secured with 50mm galvanized finishing nails. 2 nails in the face of the board for each batten of the sheathing. 1 nail per top part boards, 2 at the bottom. Since it was planned to paint a second layer after installation, the paint will cover the fasteners, making them almost invisible.

The horizontal joining of boards may be of some interest. In order to make the joint more invisible, the edges of the imitation timber were filed at 45 degrees as follows. The joints were painted and thanks to this they are minimally noticeable.

The joint turned out almost perfect

But here it’s not very good :)

The boards were joined in a checkerboard pattern, that is, in the 1st row the joint was in one place, in the next row in another. This makes them even more invisible.

Before installation, I spent a lot of time figuring out how to attach the imitation timber at height. Because I really didn’t want to make forests. In practice, everything was decided simply. It turned out that 2 ladders and 1 assistant were enough. Which the wife also acted as. The advantage of a 1-storey building.

Ladders are placed along the edges of the board, we take the board, we each climb onto our own ladder, and put the board on. It’s difficult to explain in words, but in practice everything is very simple.

In order to prevent the boards from moving along the rows, when moving from wall to wall, I used my laser level to transfer the installation level of the first board to all walls.

Calculation of the number of rows performed on computer model unexpectedly turned out to be true. The last board fit neatly under the rafters.

As a result, in about 4 person days, the entire house was sheathed with imitation timber. Which took 1.5 human power.

At the end of summer, in August, the imitation timber was painted with a second coat of paint. Before painting, I coated the vertical joints between the imitation boards, where there were some cracks, with MS polymer (I like it).

After painting with the second layer, the joints became completely invisible, and traces of fasteners can only be seen from a distance of a meter from the wall.

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How to build a house with your own hands: IGidStroy.ru Your personal assistant

Hello, dear readers! We are glad to welcome you to our website. And if you came to us, it means you are interested in reliable information about the construction of a private house. Here you will find everything: from the process of laying the foundation, carrying out work related to the roof and ending with the final stage of any construction - finishing.

Surely you have already realized that individual construction is not an easy task. It is simply impossible without a certain amount of valuable knowledge and skills. Our website contains all the current recommendations from people for whom construction is a profession, vocation, and way of life. All materials are supplemented with detailed step-by-step instructions. Many construction nuances are considered to avoid pitfalls or reduce their occurrence to a minimum. After familiarizing yourself with the details, you can build a house with your own hands, which for a long time was just your cherished dream.

What kind of information is our site filled with?

We offer the reader a large amount of information in the field of private construction, thanks to our articles and instructions. After studying them, you will be able to independently draw conclusions that will be used for your further construction.

For convenience, the site consists of several sections. The basis of this classification is individual species construction work, design features.

IN Lately private construction has become increasingly popular. That is why you first need to know which design will be acceptable and suitable for you. Information must be analyzed before the necessary conclusions can be drawn. You can familiarize yourself with the necessary material in several sections.

Houses made of timber. This category contains all the information related to the construction of houses made of timber. Their varieties, design features are described, valuable advice, having familiarized yourself with which, you can begin building a house from timber.
Houses made of foam blocks. The information presented in this section contains many tips, design features, nuances regarding the construction of a house from foam block. The information presented will allow you to find out everything you need before starting construction, before erecting a foam block structure.
Canadian houses. This section describes their main specifications And technological features construction of houses according to Canadian technology.
Engineering Communication. No construction can be completed without this section. It is extremely important to familiarize yourself with it in detail, because communications will certainly be installed and placed in your future home. This includes the drainage system, water supply, ventilation, and heating. The section of the site of the same name is devoted to the study of these details of the work.
Additional buildings: dachas, log baths. This information will be useful if you plan to build additional buildings near the house.
We are building a house. This section can be called perhaps the most necessary on the site. If your task is to thoroughly prepare for construction and collect maximum information on this topic, then this section will be simply irreplaceable. It describes in detail the preparatory, thermal insulation work, features of the construction of the foundation, zero cycle and walls.
Construction materials. For a durable, easy and convenient construction of your future home, you need high-quality and, most importantly, correctly selected building materials. This section presents an extensive list of materials used in construction, their description, scope and methods of application, as well as, importantly, expert opinions.

What else is useful?

Construction calculators. You will save a lot of time on calculations when designing your building. There are a large number of calculators to choose from;
Video archive. You will be able to see in practice the stages of construction and the use of tools. Training is conducted by experienced professionals.

You will certainly receive the information you expected to find. All that remains is to decide on the section needed for this and decide for yourself the question of how to build a house with my own hands.

Frame houses have gained great popularity both in our country and abroad. To build this type of house does not require a lot of money and time, but despite this, they have excellent performance characteristics and are completely environmentally friendly.

igidstroy.ru

Sheathing a house with imitation timber: detailed instructions

Cladding a house with imitation timber can be used for cladding walls made of a variety of materials, both external and internal, including for winter caracas houses.

The building, lined with imitation timber on the outside, looks like a solid wooden house, built from real solid timber with a flat surface and rounded edges.

What is imitation timber

Imitation timber (false timber) is a facing material in the form of wooden panels, similar to lining, but wider and thicker. To fasten adjacent boards during installation, a tongue-and-groove system is used. The thickness of the panels is most often from 1.6 to 3.6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm and a length of 200 to 600 cm in half-meter increments. But other dimensions may also occur.

This material can be used to cover walls made of:

Trees
Brick
Brusa
Foam blocks
Gas blocks
Cinder blocks
Monolithic concrete

Installation

Having skills in repair and construction work, you can install the imitation yourself, provided that all technologies for covering a house with imitation timber are followed. It is recommended that the facing material be kept for about a week in the atmospheric environment where it will be installed. This is necessary to ensure that the humidity of the panels is equal to the humidity of the local environment.

Installation steps for cladding external walls:

Attaching the vapor barrier
Installation of sheathing
Laying insulation
Fastening wind and moisture protection
Installation of counter-lattice
Installation of cladding
Cladding processing

Vapor barrier

It’s not scary if the material does not fit tightly to the walls - it will subsequently be pressed against the lathing structure. To ensure the integrity of the insulation, breaks and joints are taped with tape.

Lathing

The bars are attached:

Or with frame dowels - to concrete, foam concrete, brick
Either with self-tapping screws or nails - to wood

Insulation

The insulation is installed between the sheathing elements. It can be secured in the following ways:

Special dowels-nails for thermal insulation
Knitting wire
Nylon twine

Moisture-proof membrane

An important stage in construction is the insulation of a house made of timber. Familiarize yourself with all the nuances of a particular type of thermal insulation in advance.

An equally important element of construction is a strong and reliable floor. This article will help you install the floor correctly.

Counter-lattice

Another sheathing (counter-lattice) is installed above the moisture protection. For it, a beam 2-5 cm thick and 4-5 cm wide is taken. It must be processed in the same way as the sheathing. The counter grille is necessary for ventilation of the outer skin on the moisture protection side. It is attached to the bottom sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Some builders do not make a second sheathing, citing the fact that the planks have back side ventilation recesses. However, they provide insufficient ventilation and water can accumulate on the moisture barrier film.

Installation of cladding

Boards of imitation timber are attached to the bars of the counter-lattice. You can start from the top or bottom. The main thing is to level the first board horizontally. The board should be oriented so that the tenon is on top, while moisture cannot get into the groove. The next board is applied to the first so that the tenon fits into the groove, then it is driven through the intermediate board.

There should be a gap of about 3 cm at the top and bottom of the facing layer for ventilation of the imitation timber. The boards are strengthened with a small technological gap of 1-3 mm. This will provide them with some freedom of movement to avoid warping of the sheathing layer when the air temperature and humidity change.

Panel fastening methods

The mounting option depends on the width and thickness of the board.

Anodized self-tapping screw screwed into the front part. To prevent the caps from being noticeable, a countersunk one is made: 5-10 mm recesses are drilled, with a diameter slightly wider than the diameter of the screw cap. A wooden insert is inserted into the hole using PVA glue and sanded with sandpaper. As a result, the surface becomes smooth, and the screwing point becomes invisible. You can also fill the recesses with a special putty
Into the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees - with a screw or nail. It is recommended to pre-drill a hole to avoid cracks
Nails driven into a groove. Nails allow the material to move slightly, but screws hold it “dead”, so the boards can crack
Using climbers

Nails and screws must be long enough to penetrate 2/3 of the sheathing.

The joints of the boards in the corners are made different ways.

Using cuts at a 45 degree angle
Decorative wooden corner block. They can be purchased together with the cladding
Using two dry planed boards connected by the letter “G”. You can take platbands for this purpose

Connecting boards along the length, when one board is not enough for the entire length of the wall, can be done

Using a 45-degree cut, the joint is barely noticeable
Through a strip of the same thickness as the sheathing

Surface treatment

Upon completion of installation, the exterior of the house made of timber must be treated with a deep-penetrating antiseptic primer for external use. This layer provides the main protection for the wood.

Then a two-layer decorative and protective coating for exterior use with the desired shade is applied. You can also apply varnish, wax or paint. It is preferable to choose both materials from the same manufacturer. The choice of material should be taken seriously; the durability and beauty of the facade depends on its quality. At making the right choice The coating will need to be renewed after 6-8 years.

Frame house

Imitation timber is an excellent material for cladding a frame house that is being built for permanent residence. In this case, to cover a frame house with imitation timber, it is necessary to use boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

A vapor barrier film is attached to each frame post. The upper panels overlap the lower ones by 15 cm or more and are glued with double-sided tape.

Insulation for a frame house is installed inside the frame. It is important to secure it firmly. Poor quality insulation can lead to unpleasant phenomena - over time, walls and ceilings will rot.

A vapor barrier film is mounted on the inner surface of the frame. In this case, special care should be taken to ensure that the insulating layers are continuous.

Otherwise, the procedure is the same as described above.

After covering the house with imitation timber, you can work on other elements of the exterior. Perhaps you wanted to make a polycarbonate canopy? Correct installation Using polycarbonate with your own hands will help you make a strong and safe canopy.

Having finished with the exterior of the house, you can move on to the interior. Read about all materials for interior decoration of the house here.

And if you are still dreaming of your own large and cozy home, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the chalet houses made of timber in this article. Find out all the advantages of such structures.

Imitation timber - interior finishing

When finishing the interior, insulation may not be installed.

Lathing bars can be used with a small thickness. They are installed at a distance of 60-70 cm. You can also use a galvanized profile, which is used for installing drywall.

In principle, indoors, if the base is flat, you can do without lathing and save interior space. But with the help of lathing you can:

Hide communication wires
Achieve some insulation of the room due to the air layer between the wall and the cladding

You cannot paint false beams in a heated room immediately after installation. You need to wait 3-4 weeks. After the panels dry out, small cracks may form in them, which will damage the varnish or paint.

If the imitation timber is installed in compliance with all technology requirements, it will provide an excellent appearance to the lined surface and will last for many years.

Video on how to sheathe a house with imitation timber

Today, the construction market offers a large number of finishing materials that can be used for both interior and exterior decoration. As great a variety as there is a great gap in product quality. After all, it is the quality and characteristics of the material that determines how work with it will be structured. And the service life of the finish will depend on the quality of the work performed. In order not to go through various options and not waste time on this, the company LesoExchange offers you high-quality and environmentally friendly material made from the best types of wood, which can be used for interior and exterior decoration of various buildings, as well as for construction in general.

We will talk about a very popular option for finishing with imitation timber and its correct fastening. This board gained its popularity due to its fairly easy installation method, unpretentiousness and, of course, visual effect. To understand this in more detail, let's look at how to work with boards and how to attach imitation timber in different finishing options.

Photo 1. Interior finishing with imitation timber

For interior decoration there are two types of panel installation:

Monolithic- this is when the walls and ceiling are completely covered with panels and a blank monolithic covering is created.

Combined- this is when various parts of the room are finished and combined with other finishing materials that are suitable in style, texture and color.

Photo 2. Wall covered with imitation timber

How to attach imitation timber to the wall?

Before attaching imitation timber inside the house, be sure to determine the microclimate of the room. This will help you choose the right type of wood. Depending on the characteristics of the species, wood behaves differently in rooms with different temperatures.
For interior decoration, medium-sized panels are better suited, for example, the width is 140 mm and the thickness is 21 mm. They will not visually “eat up” the room and will allow you to additionally save extra meters.
Sanding and processing panels is one of the very important stages. This is usually done after installation is completed, but knowing from experience, we recommend that you carry out both grinding and processing at the very beginning. While the boards are not mounted, they can be easily painted on the end sides, which will help to avoid the appearance of untreated cracks on your wall or ceiling during further use, which will affect wear resistance and aesthetic appearance.
After the panels are delivered to you from the warehouse, they must rest for 7-14 days in the very room where they will be installed. Any tree simply needs to “acclimatize” to new conditions.
Carefully prepare the walls (ceiling) of the house before attaching the imitation timber. The surface must be smooth, free of dirt and dust. If necessary, they need to be leveled or sheathed with sheet material. Then a vapor barrier is attached to the base, without tension.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from 30/40 timber, in increments of 50 - 60 cm. If you plan to insulate the room, then you will need a thicker cranial beam. The sheathing is attached perpendicular to the future location of the imitation beam. All sheathing bars must initially be treated with antiseptic solutions.
Installation of the panels begins from the floor, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm for free circulation of air. Also, when approaching the ceiling, do not forget to leave the same space. This will allow the tree to breathe and change its geometry.
The board is positioned with the tenon facing up and leveled using a level, which allows you to lay out subsequent panels evenly and easily. It is not recommended to join imitation timber end to end - leave 2-3 mm. When finishing all the walls in a room, it is recommended to lay row by row along the entire perimeter of the room, rather than each wall individually. When performing monolithic finishing, fastening the imitation timber to the wall is done first.
When laying horizontally, the question often arises - how to join imitation timber along the length? Experienced craftsmen advise cutting boards at an exact 45% degree. The joints need to be filed in different directions. If there are likely to be many joints on one wall, it is better to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. Of course, to be on the safe side and for more accurate joining results, it is better to entrust the undercuts to professional installations in the workshop.

Photo 3. Brushed imitation timber

We examined the general process of installing imitation timber in great detail using the example of attaching it to a wall. This process applies to all other planes. If you are wondering how to attach imitation timber to the ceiling or how to properly attach imitation timber to the outside of a building, then all of the above information will help you.

Photo 4. Self-tapping screws for fastening imitation timber

There are only a few differences for the exterior decoration:

outside work is carried out only in the warm season, or if work needs to be carried out in winter, then it is necessary to purchase a ready-made, painted imitation timber, protected from rapid loss of humidity or its gain;
for external finishing, a layer of thermal insulation is always laid between the sheathing after the vapor barrier;
The fastening of the panels starts from the ground with the tenon facing up. This will prevent natural precipitation from getting into the joints between the panels.

There are three ways to attach imitation timber:

"into the face" (front part of the panel). When the self-tapping screw is screwed in using a screwdriver and a specialized bit, it goes straight into the board. This method is very reliable and during external decoration, a prominent element - the screw head - creates an original design on the panels;
"into the groove". This is when the self-tapping screw is screwed into the groove of the panel, going deep into the wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This method allows you to securely fasten the panel and leave the groove space free, which allows the tenon of the next panel to be freely fastened;
fastening with (reinforced) clamps. This is a fairly easy method to implement, very reliable, but carpenters often don’t like to do it, believing that using screws will be faster.

Photo 5. Reinforced clamps

If you have any doubts that you will be able to install imitation timber yourself, then our experienced craftsmen are ready to help you. We fasten the imitation timber with clamps and professional screwdrivers. We sand with high-quality machines and do painting work in the workshop.

By phone you can find out about the wider range of services that we provide in the field of wood finishing and construction.

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