Drying oil: varieties and scope of application. Drying oil: wood processing using natural materials and oils (110 photos) Types of drying oils for wood and metal
Drying oils are liquid film-forming compositions, which are products of processing vegetable oils or fatty alkyd resins with the addition of driers to accelerate drying. Drying oil is intended for the production of thickly grated, ready-to-use oils, alkyd paints, as well as for diluting these paints and bringing them to working viscosity before use. Drying oil has some uses for impregnation and priming of wooden surfaces before painting.
Production of drying oil.
To improve the properties of drying oils, rosin, low molecular weight rubbers, and other additives are introduced into them, which explains their name - “composite”.
Since vegetable oils are valuable food raw materials, and the properties of drying oil as a film-forming agent are not so high, the main directions of development of the varnish and paint industry involve replacing drying oil with more advanced materials.
Production of natural drying oil.
Natural drying oil is produced by heat treatment (compaction) at a temperature of 270-280°C (with or without air blowing) of drying oils with the addition of driers.
To make natural drying oil, linseed, hemp and other drying refined oils are used. Lead-manganese or manganese-lead-cobalt linoleates, as well as naphthenates, are usually used as drying agents for natural drying oils. Oil polymerization is carried out in stationary steel reactors equipped with fittings for introducing liquid drier.
Natural oxidized drying oil is obtained by compacting linseed, hemp or other drying oil by heating and blowing air in the presence of a drier.
Production of combined drying oil.
Combined drying oil and drying oil "oxol" different brands is obtained by sequentially heating the oil (drying, semi-drying or a mixture of both), oxidizing the oil by blowing air at a temperature of 150-160°C in the presence of a drier to the required viscosity and diluting with white spirit to a given content of non-volatile substances.
Making castor oil.
Castor drying oil is made by dehydration and polymerization of castor oil, followed by esterification with glycerin (to reduce the acid number below 10) and dissolving the resulting prepared oil in white spirit with the addition of a drier. Castor drying oil contains ~46% (wt.) of prepared castor oil, ~50% (wt.) white spirit, ~4% (wt.) (in terms of metal) drier - a mixture of linoleates: lead 1.4% (wt. .), manganese 1.6% (wt.) and calcium - 1.0% (wt.).
Preparation of alkyd drying oil.
Alkyd drying oils (glyphthalic, pentaphthalic and xyphthalic) are obtained by diluting the corresponding fatty alkyd resins of a certain viscosity with white spirit and introducing a drier.
Production of other drying oils.
Other drying oils are prepared different ways. Thus, rubber drying oils are obtained by heat treatment sunflower oil and modifying it with liquid rubber of the SKDP-N brand, diluting with white spirit and adding a lead-manganese drier.
Synthetic drying oils.
There is a group of materials that are conventionally called synthetic drying oils. These are various by-products of petrochemical production that can form films when dried. As a rule, these are low-quality materials, which, however, can be used for non-critical work, impregnation of porous surfaces, temporary protection, etc. Such materials include, for example, polydiene drying oils.
Due to the lower quality of synthetic drying oils compared to natural ones, a negative attitude towards all synthetic materials as inferior substitutes, surrogates. Therefore, chemists involved in the development, production paint and varnish materials, must, based on an in-depth study of the properties of raw materials, objectively evaluate their positive and negative aspects and give the consumer recommendations on the use and operation of these materials. Consumers should strictly follow these recommendations, since synthetic drying oils are less versatile. The scope of application of synthetic drying oil is limited.
Introduction of drying agents (driing) into drying oils.
In the process of obtaining drying oil, it is necessary to introduce optimal quantity driers. In this case, a small amount of drying agent may be ineffective to ensure the required drying rate, and an excessive amount of drying agent may not only not speed up, but even reduce the drying rate of the oil. In addition, the use of a drying agent containing 2 or 3 metals (polymetallic drying agents) increases the drying rate of drying oils.
At oil and fat industry enterprises, lead, manganese, and cobalt linoleates are most often used in the production of drying oils.
Precipitated naphthenate drying agents are most widely used in the production of drying oils, as they are more economical than fused resinates and linoleates.
Drying oil drying speed.
The rate of drying oil drying is determined both by the quality of the starting raw material and by the type and quantity of the introduced drier.
Drying oil containing polymetallic drying agents has a drying speed much greater than drying oil containing monometallic drying agent. For example, when lead or manganese drier is introduced into linseed oil, it dries in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively, and when lead-manganese drier is introduced - in 7.5 hours; with the introduction of calcium drier or lead-manganese-calcium drier, linseed oil dries in 32 hours and 6 hours, respectively.
The drying of drying oil is greatly influenced by temperature and relative air humidity. When the temperature increases from 17 to 25 °C, the drying rate of drying oil with cobalt drier increases by 1.3 times, and with manganese drier - by 3.9 times. Drying oil containing 0.05% (wt.) manganese dries at relative humidity air 70%, twice as fast as at 97% humidity.
Wood is often used in the construction and decoration of houses, because it is one of the most environmentally friendly pure materials. However, in order for the wooden elements of your home to last as long as possible, so that they are not destroyed by fungus and insects, they need to be protected. A product such as drying oil can easily cope with this task.
Application of impregnation
The use of drying oil allows you to increase the service life wooden elements designs for decades. This is especially true for rafters, because they are constantly exposed to moisture. Drying oils can be synthetic and natural, purely homogeneous, polydiene, synthetically modified, slate, coumaron-indene, etc. The use of this product will not harm either people or animals. After all, it is based on vegetable oil (up to 97%). Impregnation of facade wooden elements with drying oil allows you to protect them from changes in temperature and air humidity and, of course, from atmospheric influences. When treating a wooden surface with this composition, it forms a hard, but at the same time elastic, which protects the wood from external influences, including from fungal infection. Natural drying oil is made from sunflower and soybean oil. The best product is considered to be one based on linseed oil.
Currently, there are many impregnations that have a chemical basis and, by the way, have excellent characteristics. But at the same time, drying oil has not lost its relevance. The use of natural impregnation, in addition to being environmentally friendly, has another important advantage - the low cost of such material. Basically, drying oil is intended for interior decoration; its use in exterior work gives only a temporary effect, requiring further coating with oil or varnish. Drying oil is also used in the manufacture of putties. The use of such means protects wooden surfaces from rotting. The use of drying oil as a pre-treatment reduces the amount of varnish when performing paint and varnish work. Usually the product is applied in two or three layers, and after that the surface is painted. It is also recommended to heat the impregnation to a temperature of 80-90 degrees Celsius, and then apply it hot to the wood. In this way, higher quality and deep penetration composition into the pores of wood.
Drying oil: characteristics of impregnation
Nowadays, three types of drying oil are common: natural, “Oxol” and composite. Natural impregnation consists of 97 percent natural oil, the remaining three percent is a drier (a substance that promotes rapid drying). Drying oil "Oxol" contains only 55 percent oil (linseed or sunflower), forty percent white spirit and 5 percent drier. This impregnation is cheaper than natural. Composite compositions are characterized by a pungent odor; they contain petroleum-polymer resins, which serve as substitutes for natural resins, as well as other petrochemical products. This type of drying oil is the cheapest. Composite impregnations are not recommended for use in residential premises, even on balconies, because even after drying these compounds still have a strong, characteristic odor.
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Which drying oil is better - choose from 4 options and put it into practice
It is not known exactly when, where and by whom drying oil was invented, but several thousand people use this composition. In ancient times it was made from different types oils, technological progress has made its own adjustments and now there are 4 types of drying oil, specifications which we will examine further. And practitioners will learn how to dilute drying oil and how to apply it with their own hands.
What is the difference between the 4 types of drying oil?
In ancient times, “boiled oil”, which is what drying oil was called, was used as an impregnation for wood and as a base for paints; now priming of metals and manufacturing have been added to this list. various kinds putty compounds.
Option number 1. Natural compositions
The natural group consists almost entirely of natural oils. Production and composition are regulated by the Soviet GOST 7931-76, according to this standard this good impregnation should consist of 97% natural oils and only 3% is the so-called drier.
Oxides of manganese, iron, cobalt, etc. act as a drier. This additive is needed to enhance the film-forming effect, in other words, so that the impregnation dries. Without a drier, the impregnated surface will never dry out, but at the same time, if you increase the dose, the coating will become brittle and eventually develop cracks.
In fact, drying oil can be cooked from any natural vegetable oil, but most often linseed, hemp, sunflower or tung oil is used for these purposes. Linen impregnation is considered the best; it dries in about a day, followed by hemp, and drying oils made from sunflower and olive oil take the longest to dry.
Although formally natural drying oils are classified as varnishes, in fact they are closer to a primer. These compositions can be considered universal, they can be used everywhere, but since their price is quite high, such drying oils are used only for impregnating elite wood, restoration work and the production of expensive paints.
Natural impregnation is not able to withstand heavy loads, so when processing wooden floors it can only be used as an intermediate, preparatory composition. But for decorative wooden products this is a great option.
Option No. 2. Semi-natural impregnations
Semi-natural drying oils are better known as “Oxol”. For serious amounts of work, they are considered an excellent alternative to natural compounds.
Oxol is produced according to GOST 190-78, according to which the total mass must contain 55% natural boiled oil, 40% white spirit (organic solvent) and 5% drier. Theoretically, they can be used anywhere, but the solvent gives off a strong odor, so oxols are often used for outdoor work.
Unlike the previous option, an increase in the amount of drier does not entail a decrease in quality; on the contrary, such coatings dry faster, they are much stronger, and most importantly, they are much cheaper. Plus, the consumption of oxols is about a quarter less than the natural group.
According to the rules, the packaging of high-quality oxol should contain instructions, and here you need to carefully study the composition. The fact is that in semi-natural impregnations the use of mineral and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited; the base must be natural.
Option No. 3. Combined drying oils
The combined group is quite wide; these impregnations can to some extent be called improved oxol; the composition and general production technology are regulated by GOST 19007-73. The base may contain several types of oils with different technologies processing. The solvent is present, but not more than 30%.
But the main difference combined drying oil from everyone else is that here, along with traditional driers, synthetic modifiers are used. All this together significantly improves the performance characteristics of the coating. In addition, these compositions do not have such a strong odor as oxols.
The combined group is marked with the letter “K” and a numeric code, for example, “K-3” or “K-12”. So, compounds with odd codes are used for external work, and the even line is used for internal work.
Option number 4. Synthetic drying oils
Synthetics are considered the lowest quality product. These drying oils can only boast of a low price; all other parameters leave much to be desired. Moreover, these compositions do not even have their own GOST, they are produced according to specifications (technical conditions) and each manufacturer has their own conditions.
- Synthetics are made from waste from petrochemicals and other similar industries;
- The smell of such products is, to put it mildly, “wildly” unpleasant;
- In enclosed spaces, the smell can persist for up to several months;
- The color is dark, so synthetics are not suitable for making light paints and putties;
- The consistency is thick, often such drying oils need to be further diluted.
Synthetic drying oils are mainly used in the production of dark, thickly rubbed paints, pastes and putties, but exclusively for outdoor work. In the synthetic line, relatively good quality Only alkyd compositions differ; they represent a new development based on modern polymers.
FAQ
| Question | Answer |
| In what proportion are thickly rubbed paints diluted? | Thickened paints are made on different bases, so the instructions for each case are different. Personally, I use a universal recipe - slowly add “Oxol” to the base and stir until the consistency becomes like liquid sour cream. |
| Is it possible to dilute silver with drying oil? | Yes, you can make good paint with drying oil, but just keep in mind that such silver will not be heat-resistant. On average, the proportions are 1:3 or 1:4. Below in the video in this article you will find relevant information on this issue. |
| How to dilute drying oil |
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| How to make paraffin impregnation on drying oil. |
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| Is it possible to make drying oil with your own hands? | Yes you can:
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One of the main advantages of drying oil, which consists almost 100% of vegetable oils, is the absence of solvents, due to which there is practically no characteristic pungent odor. The rapid drying of this material is achieved by the fact that its main component, that is, oil, is subjected to heat treatment, which can last up to 12 hours at temperatures reaching 300 degrees. In addition, the content of this basic component is still not 100%; 3% of the total mass comes from driers, that is, metals introduced into the composition that promote the oxidation of oils and the formation of a quickly hardening film.
Let's find out why natural drying oil is good for painting, the technical characteristics of which are very different from combined and alkyd solutions - all those liquids, a considerable percentage of which is white spirit. Firstly, it has a specific smell, corresponding exactly to the oil that forms the basis of the liquid. There are quite a few types of drying oils, each of which contains one or another natural vegetable oil. Linen drying oil is considered the best; it forms the strongest and most durable film on the surface of the processed material.
How do drying oils based on one or another oil differ?
Wood impregnation or processing metal surface(priming), adding to paints for better hardening and to plasters - only suitable for all this. Interestingly, not all natural oils form a solid film when exposed to air and heat; some remain a viscous substance. Flaxseed oil dries faster and better, and the reason for this is the highest content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, as evidenced by a high iodine number (175–204). Hemp oil with an iodine number of 145–167 has almost the same indicators.
Drying agents added to drying oils are compounds of the following metals: lithium, cobalt, iron, lead, strontium, zirconium, manganese.
As for drying oils that contain nut, sunflower or poppy seed oil (this also happens), they would take an extremely long time to dry without drying agents. It is logical that the content of fatty acids in these pomace from the seeds of plants with the corresponding names is relatively low. The situation is even worse with rapeseed and olive oils; they practically do not dry out, only gradually thickening. And castor drying oil would never harden at all without the addition of driers, the iodine number of its component is so insignificant. In addition, it should be borne in mind that this indicator decreases as it dries.
The use of natural oil drying oils
IN to the greatest extent Drying oils, both natural and alkyd, are necessary in paint and varnish production, since this is the component needed for the production of thick oil paints. The reason for this is both the composition of the above-mentioned liquids and the requirements for the rate of hardening of coloring products. At the same time, it is alkyd drying oils that are more popular, as they are cheaper, which is why during finishing works you have to inhale the pungent odors of evaporating solvents. More expensive paints used by artists are made from natural oils.
For processing various surfaces, for example, priming wood and metal, drying oils are ideal. Actually, it was for this purpose that they were invented in ancient times, however, the component compositions of these “boiled oils,” according to ancient recipes, also contained amber, as well as other resins, which are more similar to varnishes. Natural drying oil is intended especially for interior work, from the outside it can be used to cover wooden parts under awnings and canopies. In this case, regardless of the place of treatment, it is advisable to then cover the surface with paint or plaster.
“I want ships not to sink in the blue sea.” The desire of the hero of a Soviet-era song is not enough. In the old days, it helped ships stay afloat drying oil. It was used to coat the boards of ships, protecting them from the destructive effects of water.
What is drying oil?
Drying oil- oily liquid. It forms a film on surfaces, like oil on water. The color of drying oil can be yellowish, brown, or cherry. The tone depends on the base of the substance.
Depending on the color of the base substance, drying oil comes in different shades
It is created during the oxidation of vegetable oils. Only those containing linolenic acid are suitable. It determines the ability of oils to dry.
Pour a little into a saucer and leave it there. fresh air, here comes the thick lubricant. Applied to the surface, it dries completely, becoming a hard but elastic film.
80 percent maximum linolenic acid in flaxseed oil. 10% less in hemp. 30-50% of the linoleic compound is found in nut, sunflower and poppy oils.
However, without stimulation natural drying oil from them it turns out over many months. Industrialists have learned to speed up the process. The sources are boiling. It’s not for nothing that in the old days drying oil was called boiled oil.
When heated, the components of oils that inhibit drying decompose. At the same time, the oxidation of liquids accelerates. The heating here is insignificant. Metal salts, such as manganese, added to oils help. They thicken mixtures within 6-36 hours.
Flaxseed oil It turns out light, almost transparent. A dark composition is formed from hemp oil. However, these drying oils dry the same way, about 24 hours. The sunflower mixture takes the longest to harden. In addition, it is inferior to others in moisture resistance.
Drying oil can also dry out in containers. Typically, the mixture is packaged in glass or plastic bottles. In them, the thickening process of oils is minimized, but does not stop.
New portions of oxygen enter the container when it is opened. Using one bottle for a long time forces you to decide how and with what to dilute the drying oil. Let's write down the answers: castor oil, turpentine, white spirit, organic acids. Paint thinners are also suitable. Usually, for 10 parts of drying oil take 1 solvent.
It is not recommended to experiment with drying oil thinners. The oily mixture is flammable. When reacting with “suspicious” solvents, drying oil can ignite and cause a fire.
Where is drying oil used?
Drying oil for wood– the main application of the heroine of the article. By impregnating the cellulose fibers, the oily liquid not only protects them from rotting and insects, but also decorates them.
The color of the mixture is transferred to the wood, emphasizing its structure. In other words, buy drying oil Can be used as a stain. The only difference is that the classic ones are water-soluble and were invented in the 19th century. Drying oil is not diluted with water and has been known to mankind for millennia.
Metal products are also coated with drying oil. Alloys, like wood, protect against moisture. It oxidizes metals. This is the cause of rust. Some alloys are not subject to it, for example, the noble group, aluminum and zinc.
But non-galvanized steel deteriorates from atmospheric moisture. By forming a waterproof film on the surface of the metal, drying oil extends the service life of products made from it.
In interior decoration premises drying oil consumption is laid down as . This is the name given to compositions applied to walls prepared for a finishing coat, for example, painting.
By covering the plastered surfaces with a dense film, drying oil blocks the penetration of pigments into the walls. As a result, the whiteness of the finishing plaster is maintained and paint consumption is reduced.
True, the savings are imaginary. Natural drying oil road. For each square meter plastered walls use 80-150 milliliters of oily mixture. This is when priming in 1 layer. It is recommended to apply drying oil in 2 layers.
Before painting with drying oil, you can cover any porous surfaces, even a sponge. Paints adhere better to an oily film. The problem is that the final coating does not hide the acrid smell of drying oil.
Its “aroma” dissipates within a few days. Buckets of water placed around the room can speed up the process. By the way, a pungent odor is characteristic only of composite drying oil. We will explain what the concept means in the next chapter.
How is drying oil used as an additive? oil paints and putties. The latter can be made at home using crushed chalk, plaster and wood glue. You will get the most natural and reliable composition.
Drying oil protects wooden surfaces from moisture and rotting
Drying oil in it is a bonding agent. By binding the loose masses, the oily substance facilitates the application of the putty and its adhesion to the surface. Plus, drying oil blocks the development of mold on the layer of chalk and gypsum. Fungi attack plaster and putties, just like wood.
Types of drying oil
- Natural drying oil was the one and only until the 20th century. But, with the advent of more effective and accessible alternatives, the heroine of the article faded into secondary roles. In the 21st century, for example, glaze primers are more often purchased.
They contain polymers derived from petroleum products. However, drying oil is not all natural. “Fighting” for market share, the oily mixture has become multifaceted. Let's figure it out modern types:
- Composite drying oil. Its composition is dominated by petroleum-polymer resins. Their evaporation is the cause of the strong smell of drying oil and, at the same time, harm to the body. But composite mixtures are available and compete in price with alternative ones.
Only the latter have GOST standards. For composite drying oil state standard absent. Manufacturers rely only on technical condition. Therefore, the “recipe” of mixtures in the category is “a pig in a poke.”
To prevent it from “scratching”, composite drying oils are prohibited from being used indoors. The compositions are intended exclusively for outdoor work, for example, protecting courtyard gazebos.
- Oxol. A counterweight combined drying oil manufactured according to GOST number “190-78”. Vegetable oils in mixtures 55%. Most formulations, however, include sunflower. Linen drying oil-oxol takes up only 25% of the total output.
About 40% white spirit and 5-10% drier are added to the oils in the mixtures. The latter concept hides metal salts that accelerate the hardening of drying oil. In other words, Oxol is an improved version of the usual mixture of oils.
The new product dries faster, is easier to apply, and costs less. The smell of Oxol is a little sharper than that of the natural one. The solvent is white spirit. It contains aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons. That is, there is an oil component in Oksol.
Natural drying oil. It consists of 97% vegetable oils. Use flaxseed, sunflower or hemp pomace. There is only 3% of drier in mixtures of the group. Regulates proportions GOST
Drying oil“submits” to regulations numbered “7931-76”. It also spells out restrictions on the use of natural mixtures. They are suitable only for interior work.
Let's return to the discussion of synthetic drying oil. It has subspecies, just like the natural one. Not only resins are used as composites, but also naphthenic acid salts and shale oil.
Therefore, polydiene, ethylene, synthol and shale drying oils are found on store shelves. Only the latter provides a weather-resistant film. We are talking about a coating that can withstand aggressive environments.
Maintaining aesthetics and performance characteristics. Therefore, it is slate drying oil that is most suitable for outdoor work, although it is not natural.
Drying oil price and reviews about it
All-natural drying oil is a rare offering. Production has been reduced due to minimal demand, which, in turn, is due to the price tag. So, for a 1.8-liter bottle of flax mixture they ask for at least 700 rubles. A similar volume of Oksol costs 300-400 rubles, and for synthetics they ask for only 180-230 rubles.
You can save on large volumes. So, a 10-liter flask with Oxol costs 1,000-1,300 rubles. But, as you know, savings can be imaginary. Let's find out if it's so good drying oil Price– this is the second question.
Let's start with a review of natural drying oil based on linseed oil. A certain Kiev resident took advantage of this. His comment can be found on the Drying Oil forum. Who can say what?
So, the Kiev resident writes: “I processed country windows. The first layer was coated with a hot mixture. The second one was placed cold. Looks like varnish. 4 years have passed, and my shutters in the sun and near the sea are like new.”
The father of a formum resident with the nickname TT covered the lining with linseed oil wooden house. What remains is disappointment. TT writes: “For 5 years it still hasn’t dried out, I personally peeled it off with a spatula and varnished it. Now, ironically, I sell drying oil, and I realized that my father took bad synthetics. Now I know which one to take).”
In the old days there was a composition of drying oil that is not available to contemporaries. The oils were boiled together with molten amber. The result was not so much a drying oil as a varnish.
The precious covering was common in Russian villages, especially near Kaliningrad. It is no secret that amber deposits are being developed there.
There is debate as to whether they are the largest in the world, but we cannot dispute the fact that this is the only place where the gem is mined using a quarry. Outside of Russia, amber is collected in placers, usually along the banks of rivers and seas.
