Do polishes with natural wax give shine? Comparison of wax compositions: wax varnish, Stamperia wax, mastic. Waxing materials
Application wax compositions Decoupage of boxes and other things is becoming increasingly popular. There are many compositions, but they vary greatly in price, and the properties have not yet been widely explored in wide circles. I hope this article will become a useful addition to Elena Popova’s article About stains, waxes and oils.
I have handled 4 wax compositions, and I want to compare them.
Product No. 1 - Colorless floor mastic with orange aroma from Bitumast
Retail price: about 80 rubles
Smell chemical, not very pleasant, medium strength. Doesn't look like an orange :)
Melting: not required, soft, easy to apply.
Drying: It stains your hands a little during the first hours, but only slightly after rubbing and polishing. It catches dust and lint. A coat of shellac varnish may be needed.
Color change untreated wood: slightly darkens, slightly yellows.
Glossiness: matte, after polishing matte, slightly silky.
Scuffs: Suitable for creating abrasions.
Product No. 2 – Wax varnish Maimeri 721
Retail price: 209 rubles
Smell chemical, closer to weak, a mixture of white spirit and honey. As it dries, more and more honey.
Melting: takes a few minutes under warm water, can be warmed in warm hands.
Drying: up to 24 hours, depending on the thickness of the layer, it may stick even after (a layer of shellac varnish solves the problem)
Color change untreated wood: adds a slight honey tint, increases the intensity of the colors.
Glossiness: silky matte/semi-matte. After polishing it is more matte.
Scuffs It is not convenient to create it - at work, abrasions are more likely to arise from sandpaper or from scratching with a hard sponge. It cannot be said that this varnish greatly facilitates the process of peeling paints.
Product #3 - Stamperia Clear Finishing Wax
Retail price: from 360 RUR
Smell
Melting: Not necessary, some are melted in a water bath. After melting it looks like “muddy water”.
Drying: does not stain your hands after just a few minutes.
Color change untreated wood: minor. Emphasizes colors.
Glossiness: matte before and after polishing.
Scuffs It's easy to create on it.
Product No. 4 – Stamperia Dark Wax Polish
Not much different from its transparent brother :)
Retail price: from 260 RUR
Smell chemical, pleasant before melting, intense chemical after melting. After drying it is pleasant again.
Melting: Not necessarily, some are melted in a water bath. Once melted, the consistency and color resemble thick hot chocolate fondue sauce.
Drying: After just a few minutes it does not stain your hands.
Color change untreated wood: greatly darkens the surface. (by the way, if you apply it over clear Stamperia wax, it doesn’t give the shade as intensely)
Glossiness: matte. After polishing it is silky, the most shiny of all 4 options.
Scuffs It’s easy to create on it + it slightly stains/aging light paint when working with a hard sponge.
Well, photos of my experiments:
Summary:
1. Due to the long period of drying and stickiness, I consider it the most inconvenient option. wax varnish Maimeri 721.
2. “Floor mastic” - I consider it a quite tolerable substitute for professional waxes. Its advantages are low cost and ease of use (no need to prepare for a long time before application). Cons: smell and dirtiness.
3. Stamperia waxes are an option for those who are serious about waxing and are not too lazy to go through the tedious procedure of warming up in a water bath every time (however, the comments suggest that this is not necessary). But this wait pays off with the speed of drying and the result. They do not require any additional coating.
4. Dark wax polish “Stamperia” - interesting option replacing stains and staining compounds. It polishes well and shines beautifully. I recommend trying it.
Wood has been used by humans for a long time for the construction and decoration of houses, the manufacture of furniture and interior items. This material remains popular today due to its environmental friendliness and decorative qualities. However, wood products require protection from external damage, minor scratches, moisture, and dirt. To protect the wood and to emphasize the texture and beauty of the natural pattern, various coatings are used.
Among possible options When processing wood, waxing has the advantage of being an environmentally friendly method that uses natural products. Thus, many wooden products coated with wax can be safely used even in children's rooms.
The advantage of wax over varnish is not only its naturalness, but also that, while covering and protecting the surface, it does not clog the pores of the wood, the wood breathes. Unlike varnishes, which create a film. At the same time, the appearance only benefits, the water-repellent properties of the wax are good, and the coating is durable.
Scope of application of liquid wax
Depending on the consistency and composition, wax is divided into liquid, solid and water. Each type of wax has its own area of application.
Thus, liquid wax is especially convenient when it is necessary to treat a surface with a complex relief shape. For example, furniture richly decorated with carved elements. Hard wax is applied with a piece of soft cloth, and in this case it will not work.
Liquid wax is applied with a brush, easily spreads over the surface of any shape, and is used to cover the most complex and delicate decorative elements. It is possible to play with the color saturation depending on how many layers of liquid wax are applied. There are options to make the surface shiny or matte.
As a rule, liquid wax for wood contains beeswax and a natural solvent – turpentine.
Making liquid wax at home
This wax can be prepared at home. To do this, you will need beeswax and turpentine in a 1:2 ratio to obtain a liquid product. The wax is crushed and melted in a steam bath or in microwave oven. Then carefully and constantly stirring, pour in turpentine. If the mixture turns out to be too liquid, the procedure is repeated, heating the solution and adding more crushed wax.
Sometimes a small amount of "carnauba wax" is added. It is not a bee product, but a hard tree resin extracted from palm leaves in Brazil. Thanks to carnauba wax, the coating becomes stronger. 
Depending on what kind of wax is used, a waxing composition of different shades is obtained. So, to preserve the natural light color wood, it is recommended to cover it with a composition based on bleached wax. Other options give rich honey tones.
When working with turpentine, you should follow safety precautions and ventilate the room well.
Liquid wax based on linseed oil. Cooking at home.
Vegetable oils can be used as solvents instead of turpentine. Thus, it turns out absolutely safe remedy with a pleasant smell, which even covers children's furniture or wooden toys.
To prepare this product at home, take natural beeswax and linseed oil in a ratio of 1:4. Flaxseed oil should be boiled first. Sometimes it is replaced with olive oil. But flaxseed is absorbed much better, so it is preferable to use it.
Beeswax is crushed and combined with vegetable oil in a glass container. Then it is heated in a water bath. You can use the microwave. Ready mix stored for a year without losing its properties. Store in a closed container in a cool place, avoid exposure to direct sunlight.
Industrial liquid wax
Into liquid wax industrial production substances are usually added that accelerate the drying process - driers, rosin esters to enhance adhesion, and various others to improve the elasticity and wear resistance of the coating.
Therefore, it is sometimes more convenient to use, and the waxing process takes less time. Liquid industrial wax is also tinted. After applying tinted wax, surfaces of different color shades. From brown and bronze to mahogany and ebony - there is something for every taste.
You can prepare a coating composition at home that is ideal in consistency on the first try. experienced craftsmen, beginners will have to experiment. Therefore, ready-made industrial molds are more convenient for beginners.
Applying liquid wax
It is more convenient to apply liquid wax to the product with a hard brush, especially if we are talking about embossed decorative elements. Before the first use, a new brush must be cleaned - remove excess hairs that are poorly attached and will immediately end up on the surface, which will not decorate the coating. The most suitable brushes are made from natural bristles; brushes for oil painting are suitable. There are also special brushes for liquid wax on the market. They are distinguished from ordinary brushes by the bristled bristles at the ends.
Liquid wax on a new wood product homemade applied in one layer. Then wooden surface leave for at least 1 hour. After the composition has been absorbed, its excess is removed with a piece of clean cloth. Otherwise, greasy stains may remain on the surface. Any non-lint soft fabric, even a waffle towel, is suitable for these purposes. The result is a beautiful, noble matte surface, texture natural wood becomes manifest. If desired, you can apply another layer of wax, then polish the product using a cloth or a roll of thin metal wire. In this case, the surface will acquire a characteristic shine. For the second layer you need very little composition, since the main part has already been absorbed into the pores of the wood.
Surface preparation before applying liquid wax
If wooden product not new, but we are talking about restoration, for example, then the surface must be carefully prepared before applying liquid wax.
First, remove the old varnish or polish. A solvent is used for this. A single treatment will not be enough; the procedure is repeated several times until the old varnish is completely removed. The residues are carefully washed off with warm water, and the most solvent-resistant areas are rubbed with sandpaper.
After this, the wood is rubbed with a stiff brush in order to remove the old coating even from the pores and grooves.
After drying, the products go to final stage preparation. Sand the wood with a sharp carpenter's knife - a scraper or sandpaper. All manipulations are carried out strictly in the direction of the wood fibers. Moreover, there should be no protruding fibers left - everything is cut off and sanded. The result should be a perfectly smooth matte surface, now the wood is ready to be treated with liquid wax.
The further application procedure is the same as in the case of a new surface - cloth or brush, in one or two layers, in the direction of the grain.
Application of industrial liquid wax
Ready-made industrial forms of liquid wax are applied in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. Manufacturers include various substances that affect drying speed. There are products that, after applying the first layer, are not recommended to be left on the surface for more than 10 minutes, after which they should be immediately wiped with a cloth to remove excess coating. Some compounds take longer to be absorbed.
Some manufacturers offer liquid wax in spray form. Its composition does not differ from its analogues applied with a brush, but is available in the form of a bottle with a sprayer. Just shake the can and apply the composition to the surface from a distance of 25 cm. After a while, wipe with a piece of soft cloth, evenly distributing the coating. After drying, the product can be polished to a shine if desired. Liquid wax in the form of a spray is produced both colorless and tinted.
In any case, it is always worth doing a test painting. small area before starting to process the entire surface of the product.
According to safety precautions, all materials soaked with liquid wax during work, such as rags and sponges, should be thrown away or stored in airtight containers. It does not spontaneously combust, but is flammable. The room should be ventilated during and after work.
Features of the use of waxed products
With all the advantages of the method of treating wood with liquid wax, it should be remembered that wax is a material sensitive to high temperatures. Under their influence he “floats”. Therefore, you need to take into account the characteristics of the room in which it will be used. future furniture or wood products. Although the heat resistance of some modern industrial samples of liquid wax reaches 100 0C. However, workers should not be treated with wax. kitchen surfaces. If you accidentally spill hot food or place heated dishes, traces will remain. Which can only be removed by repeated waxing.
Wax is not compatible with products containing alcohol. When choosing a care product for waxed furniture, you should carefully read the composition and instructions. In general, it is enough to simply wipe it with a dry soft cloth, and to remove dirt or remove fingerprints from time to time use special cleaners with the obligatory mark “for waxed surfaces.”
Subject to application technology and proper care Coating wood products with liquid wax will ensure a long service life and a noble appearance.
For various reasons, there may be a need to replace one protective composition with another after their application or after some time of operation of the already treated surface. The desire or need to treat a surface with Oil and wax that was previously varnished or to apply a harder and wear-resistant varnish to the surface instead of oil and wax may be required due to an initially incorrectly selected protective coating for a particular surface of a house or bathhouse or due to a selection error protective composition handler. And also if the customer overestimated protective characteristics composition chosen by him, made mistakes when using the treated surface as a result of not regularly updating the applied protective finishing coating or in cases where there is a need for restoration damaged areas wood, which is only possible by impregnation of a different class.
lookapplying Oil and Wax to the Varnish.
The choice between varnish, paint, wood oil and wood wax is best made right away. This will avoid additional costs and some difficulties that may arise when changing the protective coating. different types.
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In order to apply oil or wax to a previously varnished or painted wooden surface, the varnish and paint will have to be COMPLETELY removed. These requirements will have to be met, because Through a hard film of varnish or an oil film, even if cracked and partially, it will be impossible to evenly saturate and correctly apply wood oil, much less thick wax. The only thing that makes the task easier is that the varnish lies directly on the surface of the wood and can be applied quite easily cleared using a sander, grinder, sanding logs or timber, or sanding floorboards or parquet. Once the layer of varnish or paint is removed from the wood, wood oil and wood wax or hard wax mastic can be applied to the wood surface.
If for some reason you decide to apply a protective layer of varnish to a wooden surface that has previously been treated with oil or wax, then the possible result will depend on:
- The type of oil or wax previously applied to the surface,
- Operating time of the oil-treated surface,
- Number of oil layers during surface treatment,
- How many times did the mandatory renewal of the protective layer occur?
- Time that has passed since last update protective layer with oil or wax.
Wax and Wood Oil penetrate quite deeply into the capillary structure of wood and it is usually very difficult to completely remove it, as is most often recommended by many manufacturers, including manufacturers of varnishes and paints.
So we can assume that you will have two options possible solution assigned task:
- If the oil or wax layer is dense enough, then you can try to scrape the surface with a scraper or grind it with a grinder with abrasive attachments with different grains. Looping and grinding can occur to a depth of up to 2 mm. Next, it is recommended to treat the cleaned, sanded or sanded wood with a primer. The primer will bind any remaining oil that has penetrated more than 2 mm into the wood. As a primer, you can use impregnating primers that are recommended by the varnish manufacturer or that you have chosen.
- You can try using a universal one, which quickly polymerizes, i.e. The plastic residues of oil that have penetrated and are located deep in the capillaries of the treated wood will become thick and hard.
We recommend that you carefully select a protective coating depending on the conditions of its use and purpose, and do not forget to periodically carry out the recommended renewal of the protective layer of the protective impregnation you have chosen.
Find out in detail about the advantages and disadvantages of different impregnations for treating floors on the individual pages of our website by clicking on the links at the bottom of this page or by selecting a ready-made answer to your question in the " " or " " section in the site header. If you encounter any difficulties in selecting the necessary impregnations, call the numbers listed on the website and receive a 24-hour FREE consultation from our specialists.
Find out in more detail everything about finishing protective impregnations, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and glaze on wood:
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Concentrated varnish from the Vernenskaya manufactory is used as a topcoat (for example, for Shabby paint) and independently for any decorative work. Protects and enhances the natural color of wood.
Odorless, non-toxic, safe for health and the environment.
Tara
250 ml, 500 ml, 1l
Consumption
30–40 m2/l, depending on surface porosity
Application method
Apply with a brush, roller or sponge.
Working conditions
Before use, the varnish concentrate must be diluted with water in a separate container in an approximate proportion of ⅓–¼ (where one part varnish, three parts water). Apply a thin layer to a completely dry surface. Liquid varnish has a milky tint, but when dried it becomes completely transparent.
Usually one or two coats are enough, but surfaces that are constantly used (for example, a tabletop) can be coated with three layers of varnish. To apply each subsequent layer, the previous one must be completely dry.
Wash brushes and tools with warm water and detergent immediately after use.
Attention: Do not use lacquer concentrate undiluted.
Drying time
20–60 minutes
The varnish coating reaches its final hardness after seven days.
Storage
Store at a temperature of +5–+40ºС.
Waxes
Vernensky wax is used both as a finishing coating (for example, for SHABBY paint) and as a protective layer for wood. Emphasizes the natural color and texture of wood and creates a water-repellent surface with a light satin shine.
Based on natural beeswax.
Tara
250 ml, 500 ml
Consumption
60–80 m2/l, that is, a small jar of wax is enough to cover an area of 15–20 m2
Application method
Apply with a bristle brush or lint-free cloth
To achieve a vintage effect, you can use colored waxes over clear waxes. To do this, you need to leave the colored wax only in the recesses of the wood, removing the excess with a soft cloth. To make this easy, the layer of clear wax must be tightly applied.
Drying time
The surface is ready for use almost immediately.
Complete hardening of the wax takes from five to thirty days.
Storage
Store at a temperature of -10–+40ºС.
Every owner who thinks about protecting natural parquet faces difficult choice: what to prefer - traditional varnish, natural oil, or perhaps wax? Let's consider the advantages of the last candidate.
What are the benefits of parquet wax?
Parquet wax is a rather dense composition, in appearance reminiscent of candied honey. The product is of organic origin and is made from natural wax or paraffin. Its environmentally friendly properties make it an ideal candidate for flooring in bedrooms and children's rooms.
Penetrating deep into wood fibers, the product gives them strength and water-repellent qualities. The wear resistance of wax is recognized as the standard among all existing coatings, at the same time, one cannot help but be glad that there is no need to sand the parquet before each updating session. Wax effectively protects the floor from minor scratches, and when it gets into the joints between the planks, it prevents the appearance of squeaks.
You can use the product in two ways. On the one hand, it copes with protective functions on its own, on the other hand, it perfectly consolidates the result achieved by its predecessor: wax is often applied directly on top of the oil to increase the floor’s resistance to aggressive cleaning “chemicals”. Such an event has a beneficial effect on appearance parquet, making the texture more expressive.
On a note: In addition to “pure” wax, you can increasingly find formulations in stores that combine the product with parquet oil. A universal remedy will save you from double hassle and guarantee reliable protection wood from various household troubles.
Why is parquet wax better than varnish?
Varnish for processing parquet it is rightfully considered the strongest and most durable coating. However, it is still far from ideal:
- The varnish must be applied as thinly as possible, very long and carefully distributed over the floor surface. For beginners, the procedure will clearly not seem easy;
- the varnish film prevents the natural “breathing” of the wood;
- parquet treated with varnish should be vigilantly protected from scratches - furniture legs will have to be equipped with soft pads, and moving around the room in street shoes is out of the question;
- it is very important to beware of caustic detergents, as well as any alcohol-based liquids;
- the varnished surface does not tolerate excessively high or low temperatures;
- in case of damage glossy finish It’s not always possible to get by with “little blood” - most likely, you’ll have to sand the entire floor, cleaning old layer, and then repeat the varnishing again.
On this background wax looks much more attractive:
- It is an environmentally friendly product. Unlike varnish, it is not harmful to health, which will be especially appreciated by allergy sufferers;
- distributed quickly and without unnecessary hassle. Does not emit an unpleasant odor;
- reliably seals the pores of wood, while at the same time not making it difficult to natural circulation air;
- does not lead to gluing of parquet planks (which is often the “sin” of various varnishes);
- the velvety waxed surface is pleasant to the touch, waterproof and retains heat well;
- the oil-wax mixture perfectly emphasizes the chic of an aged board. The surface does not lose its matte shine even during intensive use;
- local restoration is possible without completely updating the layer. The affected area is re-impregnated with the composition without any sanding, which saves not only effort, but also time;
- the coating can be periodically refreshed - just wash off the old wax special means, and then distribute the new portion evenly. The parquet will get rid of accumulated dust particles and take on an even more solid appearance.
The only drawback of wax compositions is that they require attention much more often. If the parquet has been pre-treated with oil, it must be refreshed every two years, and in the case where wax is the only, and not the finishing, coating, then even once a week.
What is wax like?
Parquet wax can have different consistency, color and release form.
- Solid The composition has a fairly dense structure; it must be diluted with water before use. The shade of the treated parquet will depend on the thickness of the final product.
- Liquid wax does not require special preparation. The advantage of this product is that it allows you to cover even the most difficult to reach areas of the floor.
- Wax in the form pastes gained the greatest popularity. For ease of application, you can use a spatula or a wide brush.
Based on their composition, wax-based impregnations are divided into 2 categories:
- Polishes additionally contain water and polymers. Depending on the type, they give a matte or glossy shine; the parquet can be refreshed every month.
- Hard wax oil characterized by a denser form and an accelerated rate of hardening. Impregnated parquet becomes matte, with a barely pronounced sheen. The coating layer is renewed approximately every six months; there is no need to prime the surface before applying impregnation.
On a note: Hard wax-based oil increases the elasticity of wood, prevents it from drying out, has a dirt-repellent property and increases the strength of the floor. Among the best manufacturers funds allocated brands “Osmo”, “Bona», « Lobasol" And "Saicos».
The shade of wax is also chosen arbitrarily:
- Colorless the composition does not affect the color in any way tree species — color design the parquet remains the same as it was before treatment.
- Brightening The wax is white or silver-gray. It is selected for light wood (such as maple, ash or birch) to further emphasize the nobility of the texture.
- Dark wax impregnation adapts well to the natural colors of oak and cherry. This product is often used to treat exotic breeds.
To restore damaged parquet, special wax crayons– they retouch small scratches and chips. Soft or hard wax fills wood cavities well, while the composition is safely held in place even during wet cleaning. If you choose the right tone (if necessary, plastic pencils can be mixed with each other), the restored areas will be completely invisible.
How to make wax yourself
There is no need to purchase polishing wax from finished form- if you put in a little effort, high-quality composition It’s quite possible to cook at home.
Method 1 - popular
Grind and then melt the beeswax in a water bath. Measure out the turpentine in the same volume and start adding it to the hot mass in parts (while stirring it continuously). Wait for the product to cool completely, stirring it occasionally.
Method 2 - hypoallergenic
Crumble 2 tablespoons beeswax. Pour in half a glass of olive oil and send the mixture to melt - you can do it in the microwave, or you can water bath. If desired, plant fragrances and aroma oils; To bring the mass to a suitable consistency, it is allowed to introduce additional portions of the main components.
This composition is absolutely harmless - the recipe is ideal for treating the floor in a children's room. The finished mixture is stored for a year (provided it is in glass or metal container), so you can safely prepare it for future use.
How to wax parquet
Parquet wax dries much faster than varnish - the process usually takes 40 minutes. It takes about 12 hours to completely harden, but the coating must be protected from all kinds of stress for another 2-3 days.
Before starting the procedure, you need to make sure that there are no cracks on the parquet - if necessary, they are covered with a special grout. Remains of varnish or other polishing are removed using solvents, rinsing off with plenty of warm water. Cleaned parquet should be thoroughly sanded and dust free; if desired, for light tinting, the floor is covered with stain.
If you plan to apply wax over oil, make sure they are compatible with each other beforehand. This will be indicated by the same type of solvent in the composition, or both products should not contain this component at all. In the case where the solvent is used only in wax, there is a high probability of destroying the structure of the oil coating.
The product must be distributed very thinly, otherwise the floor will be sticky and vulnerable to mechanical damage. To rub in thick wax, use a wide spatula - either plastic or of stainless steel with smoothed edges.
On a note: Remember that a sponge is absolutely not suitable for waxing parquet: the composition forms foam, applies unevenly and, moreover, looks dull.
It is recommended to polish the hardened coating well - mechanically, that is grinder with a polishing attachment, or manually, carefully rubbing with a cotton cloth (no lint should remain on the surface). This step can be skipped; it is only needed to make the parquet more shiny.
Then the impregnation is repeated again. The second layer of wax will have the same thickness as the first, allowing at least 8 hours to dry. The optimal drying mode assumes a temperature of +18 to 22 degrees and air humidity of 60 percent. After a few hours the floor is polished again.
Hot impregnation
Along with the above " cold"the way they practice" hot» impregnation. This procedure requires special equipment - polishing machine and temperature drop:
- The first thing you need to do is heat the wax - bring it to 80 degrees by placing it in a water bath. The hot composition will be absorbed instantly, without releasing excess.
- Now you need to increase the temperature of the parquet. Treat the surface with a thermal pad to improve the adhesion of the wax to the wood.
- Spread a thin layer of product using a spatula.
- At the end of 2 hours, the composition can be reapplied. Rub in the wax mixture using a hot pad.
- After another three hours, using the same mechanism, a thorough polishing is carried out. The wax will completely harden after a couple of weeks.
On a note: do not rush to lay the carpet on the treated parquet: at least a month must pass from the completion of the work.
During the first ten days, caring for treated floors should be limited to dry cleaning only - it will be quite neat to collect dust. At further exploitation The parquet is washed with a damp cloth once every 7-15 days. Of the cleaning “chemistry” it is permissible to use only a special concentrate ( for example, brands "Coswick», « Adesiv" or "OSMO» ), and even then no more than once every 2-3 months.
Experts advise not to experiment with the use different types wax to renew the treated surface. It is much wiser to select a permanent “favorite” and not change it until the next sanding, since a floor that combines several different products at once will most likely acquire an uneven color.
