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Imitation of valuable wood species. Changing the color and tonal shades of wood. Imitation walnut wood. How to paint wood "walnut"

The structure of pine, birch, maple, aspen and linden wood is very similar to the structure of mahogany, walnut, oak, and beech. For many years now, this observation has allowed cabinetmakers to create true masterpieces from inexpensive wood, which is always at hand, by modifying available material in a noble and respectable way with a tassel. The main thing for imitation is to choose the right dye.

Hard nut to crack

Walnut wood attracts with its richness of shades and wavy patterns. To imitate the pattern of walnut fibers, you need to have several basic shades of stain: rich taupe, light brown (“café au lait”) and yellow-brown.

Walnut wood has a dark brown core with gray undertones. This color fades through light brown and dark to yellow-brown sapwood.

It often happens that the fibers intertwine and dark stains form in the light layers. All three shades are applied without drying, with one brush, alternating and intertwining with each other. You should not go through the same places several times.

Red tree

Mahogany comes in a wide range of shades, from pale pink to purplish or walnut red. It is not difficult to imitate this breed. The texture of mahogany is simple and, as a rule, fairly evenly colored, with smooth transitions of tones. But there are exceptions: some types of mahogany have a special texture, with strictly alternating bright paths, which is difficult to confuse with others.

To imitate, you need to divide the stain color into two solutions so that one is brighter than the other. First, a light tone is applied to the wood, then a second, more saturated shade is applied with a brush over the raw surface. It should be applied in parallel stripes at short intervals. If the workpiece has been well sanded, the layers of texture will shimmer and look real under the varnish.

On that oak tree

Oak wood can be imitated using a tangential cut of pine (the plane of such a cut runs tangentially to the annual layer), where the texture is more twisted and there are no straight layers that give away the species.

First, you need to process the workpiece along the fibers with a hand-held metal brush with a sparse pile. On soft layers a tubular microstructure is formed, like oak wood. The desired shade is given by a solution of iron sulfate or industrial stains of the desired shades.

For coloring wood "dark oak" you need 50 parts of Kassel brown paint, 5 parts of potash and 100 parts of distilled water. This composition is boiled for an hour, the broth is filtered and boiled again until a thick syrup is obtained, then poured into a flat metal box, allowed to harden and ground into powder. One part of the powder is diluted in 20 parts of water and boiled for several minutes. The wood is coated with this solution.

For imitation "walnut" you need the following composition (in parts by weight): 3 parts of Glauber's salt, 3 parts of potassium permanganate and 100 parts of hot (60-80°) water. This composition is applied with a brush to the wood 1-2 times. To obtain veins, a solution is applied and, after allowing it to dry, it is applied a second time in the form of veins. You can cover some areas with black mordant: 2.5-3 parts of nigrosin, dissolved in 100 parts of hot (60-80°) water.

To imitate birch and maple "walnut" use the following composition: 30 g Epsom salts+ 30 g of potassium permanganate + 1 liter of water - cover as with the previous composition.

For imitation "mahogany" solutions of the following composition are used (in parts by weight): a) 3 parts of aniline cherry paint dissolved in 150 parts of hot (60-80 °) water - this solution is used to cover the wood, and it acquires a cherry-red color; b) 2.5-3 parts of aniline paint "Ponceau", dissolved in 150 parts of hot (60-80°) water - this solution is used to cover the wood, and it acquires a dark red color.

Imitation of birch and beech "mahogany" is carried out by treating the wood surface with two solutions with an interval of 10 minutes: a) 50 g copper sulfate+ 1l of water; b) 100 g of yellow blood salt (potassium iron-cyanide) + 1 liter of water.

Imitation of pine, spruce, birch and beech wood to resemble valuable wood species(staining in Brown color) is produced with the following composition in parts by weight: 3 parts acid chrome brown dye + 3 parts vinegar essence + 10 parts aluminum alum + 1 liter of water.

Wood imitation "old oak" is made with a solution of the following components: 16 g of potash + 20 g of dry aniline brown paint + 20 g of dry blue paint + 0.5 l of hot (60-80 °) water + 1 teaspoon of household food grade 9% vinegar and covered hot with brushes

When surface dyeing, the depth of impregnation is up to 2 mm, horizontal surfaces are painted along the fibers, and on vertical surfaces the dye is applied from top to bottom. The solution temperature should be 40-50°. The solution must be applied several times until the desired color is obtained. The time gap between each application of paint should not exceed 5 minutes. Remove excess paint with a dry cloth.

After the dye has completely dried (2 hours at a temperature of 18-20°), the surface of the wood is wiped along the grain with a tuft of horsehair or sanded. The dye consumption is 2-4 g/m2. wood surface.

Painting oak and oak veneer “gray oak” is done in several steps: a) the surface is coated with black alcohol varnish; b) after drying, dry aluminum powder is poured onto it and rubbed into the pores of the oak with a swab; c) the dried painted surface is wiped with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings along the fibers; d) coated with colorless alcohol or oil varnish.

Mordant (deep) dyeing carried out in two steps: first, the wood is treated with a mordant solution, and then painted. The following metal salts serve as mordants: copper sulfate, iron sulfate, potassium dichromate (chrompic), etc. The mordant and dye are chosen depending on the type of wood and the color in which it needs to be painted. Solutions are prepared by dissolving salts in hot water, filtering and cooling.

Staining wood at home can be done using the following recipes:

Cherry and then brown wood can be achieved by exposing the wood to a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Yellow veneer from light wood is obtained in a solution of potassium chloride, prepared at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of boiling water.

Gray-blue and black colors achieved by soaking sliced ​​veneer in an infusion of oak sawdust and iron powder (or sawdust) for 4-5 days.

Blue black color of bog oak possible by infusing oak veneer in a solution of iron filings and vinegar.

Raven color at the oak and grey for other breeds it can be obtained using the following composition: add 1/6 part (by weight) of iron filings or shavings to an aqueous solution of nitric acid (ratio 1:1). After dissolving the sawdust, add water to the solution in a ratio of 1: and leave the solution in a warm place for two days. After settling, only the light part of the solution, which is the coloring composition, is poured into a glass container with a ground-in stopper.

Black tone wood can be obtained in a solution of acetic acid with the addition of rust (iron oxide). The veneer is soaked in this solution for 24 hours. Before drying, the veneer sheets are immersed in a solution of baking soda to neutralize the acidic environment.

Silver or gray The coloring of sliced ​​veneer can be obtained by placing the veneer in a solution made from iron filings filled with rainwater, and the veneer is placed in the solution so that the sheets do not touch either the walls or the bottom of the dish.

Bluish-green tint is achieved by soaking veneer from ordinary birch in a solution of iron sulfate (at the rate of 50 g per 1 liter of water) for 1-2 days. After soaking in the solution, the veneer sheets are washed running water. In this case, the tone saturation is controlled visually. Bog nut in this solution becomes smoky gray, and beech becomes brown.

Beautiful brown color Ammonia vapor is added to the wood, for which the part to be painted is placed in an enamel or glass container. Place an open jar of ammonia, after which the dishes are tightly closed. After a few hours, the “staining” process ends. With this painting method, the parts do not warp and the pile does not rise.

Reddish yellow Spruce and ash veneer is given by aging in a solution of nitric acid in water in a 1:1 ratio. After drying, the veneer surface is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper and treated with a tuft of horsehair, sea grass, bast or dry non-resinous shavings.

Unexpected shades of color are obtained by soaking sliced ​​veneer in coffee broth with the addition of baking soda after preliminary pickling in a hot alum solution.

The following natural (vegetable) dyes with the addition of some chemical ingredients, with the help of which wood can be painted in the colors we need, are no worse than industrial dyes, and most importantly, they are light-resistant and do not decompose, and their use eliminates the formation of spotting.

The intensity of the color of wood with solutions of natural dyes increases when added tosolution of 2% aluminum alum.

(based on the book by A.M. Konovalenko)

WOOD DYING

Process technology. Wood of different species takes on different colors. It has been noted that hard, dense rocks are painted better than soft ones. So, oak is painted better than linden, and birch is better than beech, etc. Usually light wood is painted in more saturated colors; sometimes, wanting to enhance the tone, it is etched in special solutions. The material to be painted is freed from stains and dust.
Wood coloring can be superficial and deep, and in intensity - rich and weak. Mosaicists mainly use deep dyeing, because when drying and sanding, part of the surface layer is lost and the texture becomes lighter.
Since most chemicals used for dyeing are toxic, when working with them it is necessary to take certain precautions: wear rubber (surgical) gloves, protect your eyes with goggles, etch veneer in special baths, away from food and in a ventilated area. Etching utensils should be enamel, glass and plastic trays. Usually, for this purpose, photobaths of various capacities are purchased (recommended sizes are 50X60 and 50X100 cm).
Several sheets of material of the same rock are lowered into the solution. Put various breeds wood in one solution is not recommended. For better wetting in the solution, the veneer sheets are washed with water at room temperature before lowering them into the bath.
Usually painted in a cold (room temperature) solution. Sometimes, to speed up dyeing, the solution is heated or even boiled. Basically, soft rocks are stained this way (for this they use galvanized dishes with a lid), which are kept in the solution over low heat for 2 hours.
With the cold dyeing method, the colors are stable and monochromatic; When boiled, some dyes decompose and their color changes. When hot etching, it is easy to make a mistake in determining the boiling time. To accurately determine how deeply the veneer has been colored, remove it from the solution with tweezers, rinse it in running water and, breaking off a piece, inspect the color of the cut.
When using the cold method of coloring wood, preference is given to natural dyes. Coloring pigments of natural dyes are light-resistant and do not decompose; When using such dyes, the formation of spotting on the surface of the wood is eliminated. Decisive factors High-quality coloring depends on the time the wood is kept in the solution and its concentration.
If the solution is of low concentration and the veneer is not etched, it is necessary to increase its concentration and reduce the time for impregnation.
For both cold and hot dyeing methods, it is recommended to place veneer sheets in a bath on a metal stand (mesh), since the bottom of the bath usually contains dye sediment and impurities that veil the texture of the veneer.
The purity and uniformity of coloring is greatly influenced by the preliminary preparation of the material. To obtain the purest and most bright colors Sliced ​​veneer sheets and some parts are bleached and deresined before painting.
After dyeing, the veneer is washed in running water and dried, periodically turning the sheets over clean room where direct sunlight does not penetrate. When the veneer is almost dry, it is placed under a load to relieve internal stress. To find out the final color, before cutting out the elements for the set, a piece of etched veneer is coated with varnish and allowed to dry. Used solutions are filtered and stored in a dark place in a closed glass container.
Effect of tannins on color. Coloring takes place intensively only when the rock has enough tannins, from which tannin should first be isolated. So that wood can take on color, it is saturated with tannins. By combining with metal salts, tannins give it a certain color. Sometimes low concentration pyrogallic acid (0.2...0.5%) is used to saturate wood with tannins.
A lot of tannins are found in willow bark. Wood of such species as oak, beech, walnut, etc. has enough of these substances. Oak bark is richest in tannin at the age of 20 years. Tannins are collected in the bark of the trunk and on the branches, but there are especially many of them in growths on oak leaves - galls. In such balls with a diameter of 10... 15 mm, up to 60% of the tannin is collected. The presence of tannin in the tree is indicated by the color of the leaves acquired in the fall.
To saturate wood containing little tannin with tannin, use enamel dishes, where veneer and crushed galls (1/3 of the wood weight) are placed. Pour everything with water and boil for 10 minutes. After this, the wood is removed from the water, dried and moistened with a mordant. If you use the bark of a young oak, then it is boiled for several minutes over medium heat, then the solution is allowed to cool and the wood is dipped into it. After a few hours, the veneer sheets, rinsed in clean running water, are placed in a solution of metal salt, which is necessary for painting the material in desired color. At certain intervals, tone saturation is monitored visually. The wood that best accepts color is maple, birch, hornbeam, pear, apple, and chestnut.
In its pure form, tannin is a yellowish powder, easily soluble in water and alcohol.
Like young oak bark, tannin is sold in pharmacies and stores, etc. In the same stores you can buy most of the chemicals recommended for painting. Some of them can also be purchased at stores and hardware stores.

To determine whether there are tannins in wood, drop a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate onto a separate piece of it. If there are no tannins, the wood will be clean after drying; if tannins are present, a black or gray stain will remain on the wood.
You can speed up the drying of painted veneer by ironing. To do this, set the iron temperature regulator to the extreme right position and iron first one side, then the other, through gauze, and so on until the sheet is level. Do ironing without unnecessary pressure, but confidently and quickly. When the edges of the veneer begin to lift, turn it over to the other side. If you miss this moment and the veneer sheet curls into a tube, then to straighten it, wet it in water and continue ironing.
Recommended under ebony imitate maple, hornbeam, pear, plum, mahogany - birch, beech, elm, pear, alder, maple, chestnut, Walnut, cherry, walnut - birch, white maple.

DYES AND CORDANTS

Dyes and stains are used for transparent finishing of joinery and semi-finished wood products. They come on sale in the form of powders, soluble in water or alcohol. To varying degrees, dyes have light fastness, bright color, high penetration into wood pores and easy solubility. Dyes for transparent finishes are of artificial and natural origin.
Synthetic dyes. Artificial (synthetic) dyes are complex organic substances obtained from coal tar. They can be water- and alcohol-soluble. For transparent finishing, acid dyes and nigrosins are mainly used.
The water-soluble dye is prepared as follows: to the powder in required quantity(according to the instructions on the package) add hot (temperature up to 90 ° C) boiled water, mixing the contents and making sure that no clots of powder remain in the solution. Then boiled water is added to the mixture to the specified volume and everything is thoroughly mixed. If the dye has poor solubility, the solution is heated (without bringing to a boil), softening it by adding a solution of 0.1...0.5% soda ash. For more even and deep dyeing, it is recommended to add a 25% solution of ammonia (ammonia) into the working solution in a volume not exceeding 4% of the total volume of the solution.
Among the water-soluble dyes, we can distinguish those that imitate wood like valuable species. So, for dyeing to match mahogany, acid dyes are used - dark red, red-brown No. 1,2, 3, 4, as well as red No. 124. Dyes No. 1 and 4 give the wood a red-yellow tint, the rest - the color of natural mahogany light and medium tones. To dye the tone of light walnut, the following dyes are used: light brown No. 5 and 7, giving the wood golden and yellowish shades, respectively; acid yellow, giving a lemon tint; yellowish-brown No. 10 and orange-brown No. 122, giving yellowish and orange shades, respectively. The average tone of walnut is given by such dyes as acid brown (reddish tint), walnut brown No. 11, 12,13, 14, 16 (from reddish in the first to yellowish in the last number), etc. For coloring walnut in dark tones dark brown dyes No. 5 (grayish tint) and No. 8, 9 (reddish and lilac shades, respectively) are used.
Alcohol-soluble dyes are intended for dyeing wood and coloring furniture varnishes. By appearance These are brown and red powders of varying saturation, which dissolve in alcohol and acetone. The most commonly used are red light-fast dye No. 2 (gives a pure red tone), reddish-brown No. 33 (brown tone with a reddish tint), and nut-brown light-fast dye No. 34 (even dark brown tone).
Acid dyes produce pure and lightfast colors. Without coming into contact with the cellulose fiber of the wood, the dye colors the tannins and lignin present in it. When dissolving the acid dye powder, a small amount of acetic acid is added to the aqueous solution. Before staining, the wood is treated with a 0.5% solution of chromium or copper sulfate. The acid dye solution should be 0.5...2% concentration.
When painting wood, it should be taken into account that during sanding upper layer coloring is removed. At the same time, the dye veil is also removed. The disadvantage of water-soluble synthetic dyes is the raising of pile on the painted surface, which requires additional sanding of the surface after drying.
Synthetic dyes produce bright and pure colors, so their use in wood mosaic work is limited.
Nigrosins color wood black and bluish-black. They are mainly used for the preparation of coloring alcohol varnishes and polishes.
Mordants include dyes and metal salts that come into contact with tannins. When etching, wood is stained to a significant depth in a solid mass of wood and gives through staining of the veneer. The color tone of the wood depends on the type of stain and the presence of tannins in the wood (see table). Thus, birch is imitated to look like gray maple; ash, beech, elm, cherry, alder, pear - mahogany; apple, hornbeam, plum, walnut, white maple, oak, beech and pear - ebony, etc.
Breeds that do not have tannins must be saturated with them. For saturation, tanning extract is used, as well as resorcinol, pyrogallol, pyrocatechin, etc. If there is no tanning extract, prepare a solution from oak sawdust and young oak bark

Table. Wood etching solutions

*Second application - 2...3 hours after the first.
**Potassium dichromate is applied twice; second application - after 10 minutes. after the first
*** The entire pack of veneer is soaked in the solution.

Mordants are prepared by dissolving crystals chemical substances in water temperatures up to 70 °C. When staining with stains, wood (or planed veneer) is dipped into a solution. If the surface to be painted is large, the solution is applied with a brush. Mordant dyeing of wood does not create a veil, and the thickness of the paint is uniform.
Natural dyes. Available for sale under common name stains or stains. Beitz is a powder, and stain is a ready-to-use aqueous or alcohol solution of the required concentration. The coloring agents here are humic acids, which color the surface of the wood to a depth of 1...2 mm. Stains and stains are classified as surface dyes.
Natural dyes are resistant to light. They have a calm, noble shade, do not darken the texture, are unpretentious in preparation, easy to store, and non-toxic. They are prepared from plants, tree bark, sawdust etc. in the form of decoctions.
All natural dyes can be used for solid wood mainly hardwood- oak, beech, maple, ash, birch, etc. To do this, the product is well sanded and positioned with a slight slope to the plane. The dye is applied with a flute first across the fibers, then along. The dye is reapplied only after the previous layer has completely dried. Dry products or objects away from batteries; they should not be hit by straight lines Sun rays. After drying, the product is wiped with cloth and coated with wax mastic or varnished to fix the color.

Light wood can be painted red-brown with a decoction of onion peels, yellow with unripe buckthorn fruits, and brown with apple bark and walnut shells. If you add alum to each of the listed decoctions, the color tone will intensify. Light wood (mostly hardwood) can be painted black using a decoction of alder or willow bark.
Sliced ​​veneer made from light wood can be painted yellow by applying a decoction of barberry root. Strain the broth, add 2% alum to it and heat it again to a boil. The cooled broth will be ready for use.
The orange color is obtained by using a decoction of young poplar shoots mixed with alum. To obtain a decoction of a poplar branch (150 g), boil it in 1 liter of water to which alum has been added for 1 hour. Then filter the decoction several times and leave to settle in an open glass container. Leave it in a bright room for a week. After this, it acquires a golden yellow color.
To obtain a greenish color, add a decoction of oak bark to the decoction of young poplar shoots with alum (see above). A greenish color will be obtained if fine verdigris powder (50...60 g) is dissolved in vinegar and the solution is boiled for 10...15 minutes. Soak sliced ​​veneer in a hot solution.
To obtain a black color, juice from privet fruits ( wolf berries) mix with acids, for brown - with vitriol, blue - with baking soda, scarlet - with Glauber's salt, green - with potash.
In a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate), the color of the wood will first be cherry, then brown.
Yellow color is obtained from light wood veneer in a solution of potassium chloride (10 g per 1 liter of water at 100 °C).
Gray, blue and black colors can be obtained by soaking sliced ​​veneer in an infusion of oak sawdust and metal powder (or sawdust). Prepare the solution according to color saturation. Keep the veneer in it for 5...6 days. If there is no sawdust, you can use oak and metal shavings.
The blue-black color of stained oak is obtained by infusing oak veneer in a solution of metal shavings in wood vinegar.
Pour nitric acid or (a mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids) and water into a glass container. First pour in the acid, then water in a 1:1 ratio. To this solution add 1/6 part by weight of iron filings (sawdust). The sawdust should dissolve over time. Add 1/2 part by weight of water again. Place the solution in a warm place for two days, after which pour the light part into a glass container with a ground stopper. In this solution, the oak will turn gray, and all other species will be gray.
If you coat birch or maple with a solution of pyrogallic acid and, after allowing it to dry, cover it with an aqueous solution of potassium chrome, you will get a blue color.
Add metal filings to wood vinegar. Close the container tightly with a ground-in stopper or lid and place in a warm place. After some time, the solution can be used as wood-acetic acid iron. When mixed with sulfamine, such a freshly prepared solution gives the wood a green color, and with cobalt acetate - a yellow-red color.
Dilute nitric acid with water and add copper filings. As you heat this mixture to a boil, you will notice that the sawdust has dissolved. Dilute the cooled mixture with water again (1:1); you will receive the finished dye. Sheets of sliced ​​veneer will turn blue in it. After soaking, the wood should be neutralized with a solution of baking soda.
Grind 50...60 g of copperhead into powder, which is then dissolved in a small amount of vinegar. Add 25...30 g of iron sulfate to the solution and add 2 liters of water into it. Boil the composition for 0.5 hours. You will obtain a green solution that should be used hot
Dissolve crystals of potassium dichromate in sulfuric acid and add water (1:1). In such a solution, the species will turn yellow, and if there are tannins in the wood, they will turn brown.
Dissolve copper sulfate crystals in water and add potassium chromium to the solution. The wood will turn brown, and if tannins are present, it will turn black.
The golden-brown color of birch veneer can be obtained by using a 3.5% solution of potassium permanganate. If birch veneer is etched with yellow blood salt in a solution of the same concentration, you will get mahogany-like birch. A 0.1% solution of nigrosin paints ordinary birch gray.
Place pieces of steel wire or nails in vinegar and after a few days you will get a dye with an effect.
Walnut wood contains a sufficient amount of tannins, so it is often used to obtain (by staining in solutions) other color shades, including black. In a container large enough to hold veneer sheets of a certain size, pour rainwater along with iron filings covered with a layer of rust. Soak the veneer in this solution for a week, otherwise stable, see-through dyeing will not occur. After soaking, rinse the material in clean water, washing off the unnecessary veil, and pat dry with newspaper.
To dye walnut black, you can use solutions of synthetic dyes mixed with metal salts (for example, copper chloride).
Most quick way To obtain a black tone in wood, you need to dip the veneer in a solution of acetic acid (or vinegar) with added rust. The veneer should be soaked in this solution for 24 hours. Before drying, neutralize the veneer sheets with a solution of baking soda.
In some cases, for mosaic work it is necessary to select a silver or gray color for sliced ​​veneer. To do this, fill the iron filings with rainwater. Place the sliced ​​veneer on its edge so that the sheets do not come into contact with the bottom or walls of the dish. It is best to obtain such shades on light-colored rocks rich in tannins.
To obtain a silver-gray color for mordant dyeing, add vinegar (1:1) to rainwater and place rusty nails or wire in this solution. After the solution has settled, lower the veneer into it. Check the desired color visually.
A silvery tone with a bluish-greenish tint can be obtained by soaking ordinary birch veneer in a solution of iron sulfate (50 g per 1 liter of water) for 1...3 days. After soaking, rinse the veneer sheets with running water. Check the tone saturation visually. Bog walnut in such a solution has a smoky, grayish tint, and beech has a brown color.
A beautiful brown color can be obtained by staining wood with ammonia vapor. Place the part to be painted in an enamel or glass container and place an open jar of ammonia in it. Close the top of the dish tightly. In a few hours the process will be completed. With this painting method, the parts do not warp and the pile does not rise.
Some types of wood acquire a stable color when exposed to acids. For spruce and ash, a solution of nitric acid in water (in equal parts by weight) is recommended. After being in this solution, the veneer acquires a beautiful reddish-yellow color. After drying, sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper and smooth it using horsehair, sea grass, bast or dry, non-resinous thin shavings.
Completely unexpected shades color combinations obtained in a decoction of ground coffee beans with the addition of baking soda. Before soaking in such a decoction, pickle the sliced ​​veneer in a hot alum solution.
Plants are sources of many natural dyes. To dye veneer in them, a solution of strong concentration should be prepared. In order for the color to be stable, the veneer is first etched in some kind of saline solution. For this purpose, light soft wood veneer is selected.
If you soak veneer in a solution of alum and then dip it in an infusion of onion peels, it will turn yellowish-red.
Veneer soaked in a solution of iron sulfate will turn olive green. If you then dip it in an infusion of birch leaves and fruits, it will acquire a dark gray color with a greenish tint, and after infusion of rhubarb root - a yellow-green color.
If you first etch the veneer in bismuth salt and then soak it in an infusion of sawdust and wild pear bark, you will get a pleasant brown color. Ash bark will give the veneer a dark blue color after bismuth salt, and alder bark will give it a dark red color.
Veneer kept in a solution of tin salts and then in an infusion of potato leaves and stems will turn lemon-yellow, and in an infusion of hemp leaves - dark green.

DEGRINING AND BLEACHING OF WOOD

Deresining wood is necessary to remove excess resin accumulations (especially in coniferous species ah), removing grease stains from the surface, etc. Degumming and bleaching are often carried out simultaneously.
Typical compositions for degumming are various solvents. So, for pine, a 25% solution of technical acetone is used. The composition is applied with a brush. After deresining, the wood is washed with warm water and dried or bleached. Sometimes the wood is detarred with alcohol.
The following composition is common (g per 1 liter of hot water): baking soda - 40...50, potash - 50, soap flakes - 25...40, alcohol - 10, acetone - 200. Deresin with a hot solution using a flute. After degumming, the wood is washed clean water and dry.
With the help of bleaching, you can not only prepare wood for painting, but also achieve expressiveness of tone, weakening it to the required level. When bleached, some types of wood sometimes acquire the most unexpected color shades Thus, a walnut, which has a uniform surface texture with a violet tint, when bleached in hydrogen peroxide acquires a pure scarlet-pink hue, and with further bleaching - a pale pink hue.
Various solutions are used for bleaching. Some of them act quickly, others slowly. The bleaching technology depends on the composition of the bleach. It is recommended to bleach the surface of the product before cladding or before cutting into a mosaic set, since bleach solutions (mostly acids) can affect the bonding strength, and the cladding will peel off from the base. Bleach solutions should not be used hot; they must first be cooled.
In the practice of amateur carpenters, a solution of oxalic acid (1.5...6 g) in boiled water (100 g) is traditionally used. This solution bleaches light woods well - linden, birch, maple, light walnut, white poplar; other breeds develop gray spots and muddy shades. After bleaching, the veneer sheets are washed with a solution that simultaneously lifts the pile and deresinates the surface. Composition of the solution (in parts by weight): bleach - 15, soda ash - 3, hot water- 100. First dissolve soda, then add bleach when the solution has cooled. After using the solution, the wood is washed with water.
For many species, with the exception of oak, rosewood, lemon tree and some others, an effective bleaching agent is hydrogen peroxide (25% solution), which is sold in pharmacies in the form of a solution or perhydrol tablets. After bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, the wood does not need to be washed.
If a 25% aqueous solution of ammonia is added to hydrogen peroxide to activate the process, the bleaching rate will increase significantly. This composition bleaches species such as birch, maple, beech, walnut, wavona, etc. within 15...30 minutes. In this case, the solution sometimes heats up to high temperature. In this case, bleaching is carried out in thick-walled bakelite baths, in thick glass baths or in enamel dishes. Photobaths cannot be used in this case, as they may warp or melt.
Wood must be bleached in a ventilated area. In this case, clothes should be covered with a rubberized apron, rubber gloves should be put on your hands, and your eyes should be protected with goggles. Solutions should be kept away from children, in a special cabinet, locked with a key. The pieces of wood in the bath should be turned over, taking them out and putting them back in again. The bleaching process is controlled only visually.
Hydrogen peroxide bleaches mainly fine-pored wood and ash. Species containing tannins are difficult to bleach in hydrogen peroxide or cannot be bleached at all (for example, oak). To speed up the bleaching process, the surface of such rocks must be moistened with a 10% solution of ammonia.
For accelerated bleaching, you can use a composition of solutions of sulfuric acid (20 g), oxalic acid (15 g) and sodium peroxide (25 g per 1 liter of water).
If 40 g of potash and 150 g of bleach are dissolved in 1 liter clean water, then you get another whitening composition. Shake the mixture before use.
Titanium peroxide is considered the best whitening agent.

After bleaching in a 3...5% solution of oxalic acid, birch wood acquires a greenish tint.
Oak and ash veneer are bleached with oxalic acid. For other types of wood, use lemon or acetic acid. To do this, acids are diluted with water in a ratio of 50 g per 1 liter of water.
To obtain gold veneer, soak Anatolian walnut in hydrogen peroxide, visually observing the appearance of the desired shade. Hydrogen peroxide must be at least 15% concentration. In the same way you can get pink color, bleaching some varieties of walnuts in hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 30%.
To get blue on a white background, bleach walnut with contrasting tones in a solution of hydrogen peroxide.

Imitation valuable species wood

Imitation of valuable wood species is usually carried out by impregnating the surface with an aqueous or alcoholic solution of various stains, aqueous solutions of aniline dyes or special chemical compositions - aqueous solutions of various substances. To process mahogany wood, you can also use a mixture of black and red ink (the required proportion should be selected experimentally). Imitation of walnut wood can be done with a 2% alcohol solution of iodine.

Finish:
“mahogany” lends itself well to alder, elm, ash, beech, cedar, birch, cherry and pear,
“ebony” birch, oak, maple, hornbeam, apple, plum and cherry,
“walnut” alder, birch, linden and beech.

Table: Aqueous solutions for simulating valuable wood:

Solution number: 1 Potassium dichromate
2 Potassium permanganate
Concentration, g/l: 1: 25
2: 25
Imitation: “Walnut”
Technology: Apply the second solution 10 minutes after the first

Solution number: 1 Copper sulfate
2 Yellow blood salt
Concentration, g/l: 1: 10-50
2: 100
Imitation: “Mahogany”
Technology: Apply the second solution after the first has dried

Solution number: 1 Aniline chloride
2 Copper chloride
3 Potassium dichromate
Concentration, g/l: 1: 50
2: 50
3: 25
Imitation: “Ebony”
Technology: First apply a mixture of the first two solutions, and after 10 minutes the third solution

The solution is applied to a carefully sanded surface with a swab of gauze folded in several rows, a rough brush, or a spray bottle. You can immerse parts in the solution. In order for the composition to lay down in an even layer, the surface of the product should be pre-moistened. If 15-20 minutes after the first coating the color of the desired tone is not obtained, the treatment should be repeated (possibly more than once), but try not to over-moisten the wood, so as not to cause it warping and cracking.

It is better to check the color and tone of the dye first on paper, and finally on a piece of wood of the same species, prepared in a similar way. Raw, treated wood gives an almost correct idea of ​​the future brightness of color and tone under varnish. The dried smear coated with varnish matches the final color and tone of the future coating.

Paint adheres better to wood if you add a little (up to 3%) wood glue to the solution. When processing coniferous wood, it is recommended to first clean it of resin deposits, and then rinse it with a 10% solution of caustic soda, gasoline, turpentine, alcohol or a 10% solution of table salt. Possible finishing and metal cases plywood veneer.

Here is one of the technological methods:
A smooth, flawless sheet of organic glass with a thickness of about 3 mm and other dimensions, 30-50 mm larger than the largest wall of the case, is thoroughly washed from dust and dirt, dried, greased one side with Vaseline and wiped dry. In this case, Vaseline remains in the micropores of the glass. Then the sheet is placed on a flat horizontal surface greased side up and pour some prepared epoxy glue onto it. The glue is carefully spread over the glass in a layer of 1-1.5 mm and a sheet of veneer cut with some allowance is placed on it with the front side.

All air bubbles from the adhesive layer are carefully removed by squeezing them to the edges. Bubbles can be easily detected by viewing the bag from the glass side. The veneer is then coated with a thin layer of epoxy glue and a case is placed on top of one of its sides. Before this operation, the case must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased. After 6-7 hours organic glass removed. To do this, a sheet of glass is carefully bent at one edge, and it gradually moves away from the layer of hardened glue.

The surface is smooth, with a mirror shine. Any glue leaks along the edges are filed off immediately, without allowing it to completely harden (after a few days it will become brittle and will chip during processing). After this, the next side of the case is processed.

Wood processing methods: oak, walnut, rosewood, mahogany, rosewood, gray maple, ebony. Wood waxing, wood bronzing

Oak wood stain

A mixture of 0.5 kg of Kassel soil, 50 g of potash in 1 liter of rainwater is boiled for an hour, then the resulting dark broth is filtered through linen and boiled until syrupy. After this, it is poured into completely flat tin boxes (tin lids), allowed to harden and crushed with a pestle into a coarse powder, which after boiling with water (1 part powder to 20 parts water) for a few minutes gives an excellent mordant. to imitate oak wood.

Walnut wood stain

Ordinary walnut wood has a light brown tint, which even after polishing does not look very beautiful. Therefore, natural walnut wood should be given more dark tone, which is achieved by treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate. As soon as the wood dries, this solution is applied a second time, but only to some places, so that veining is obtained, and they try to ensure that it has natural look. Walnut wood, along with dark veins, has almost black veins; such places are best imitated with black mordant (see ebony). The quality of the imitation will depend on the skill of the worker.

Stain for imitation rosewood

Rosewood has a dark brown color with characteristic reddish veins. Since walnut wood is closest to rosewood, walnut is used to imitate the latter; other types of wood do not produce such a beautiful fake.

The walnut tree is first sanded with pumice, and then evenly coated with a sponge or cotton wool with paint of the following composition: 3 parts by weight of brown aniline and 100 parts by weight of alcohol. After drying, the operation is repeated if necessary. The dark veins of rosewood are outlined using a flat brush adapted for this purpose with a decoction of logwood. After drying, the wood is wiped with a sponge soaked in a weak solution of potassium dichromate, then a small amount of oil is rubbed into it and finally polished. For polishing, use a solution of red shellac in alcohol to which is added such an amount of Orceli alcohol solution so that the red color characteristic of this polish has the proper strength. Then, from the combined action of the coloring substances contained in the wood and the polish, the reddish veins and dark brown color of rosewood are obtained, and other places take on a reddish-brown color, which is also observed in rosewood. Depending on the amount of orceli solution taken, a lighter or darker color of rosewood is obtained.

Mordant for imitation mahogany

The wood intended for mordant must be well dried, and the mordant is best applied using a brush, which must be immediately washed and dried after each use.

1) A very beautiful and durable mordant is prepared by mixing 500 g of finely ground sandalwood, 30 g of potash and 1.5 liters of water in a bottle. The mixture is left to stand in a warm place for a week, shaking frequently. The liquid is then filtered through cloth and stored in a suitable container until consumed. In another bottle, dissolve 30 g of alum while heating in 1.5 liters of water, filter and save. The object intended for etching is treated with the heated first solution several times until the desired color is obtained, after which it is coated with a second, also heated liquid. You should not mix both liquids into one. After drying, wipe the etched item with linseed oil using a cloth.

2) Recently, sandalwood is often replaced with aniline dyes, soluble in water. The advantage of aniline dyes is their high covering power. Ponceau paint is very suitable for simulating mahogany. 100 g of Ponceau aniline is dissolved in 3 liters of water. This solution is applied to the wood to be painted once or twice, depending on the color you want to achieve.

Mordants for imitation rosewood

Rosewood is distinguished by dark red veins. To imitate this tree, maple is taken as the most suitable in its structure. Maple planks or plywood should be sanded thoroughly before going into

processing, since only in this case they are well painted.

1) To imitate rosewood, two paints are prepared: one for lighter red veins, the other for darker ones. These paints are solutions of aniline in 60+ alcohol. The paints are prepared according to the following recipes.

1) Light red:

1 part by weight coralline,

1 part by weight roseine,

2) Dark red:

1 part by weight coralline,

1 part by weight roseine,

0.1-0.2 parts by weight of brown aniline,

100 parts by weight of alcohol or vodka.

Using a brush divided into several parts, paint the veins with paint No. 1 so that there is a space of 10-12 mm between each two. As soon as these veins are dry, some of them are reinforced here and there with the same paint. After this, the veins are painted using thin core brushes so that they do not appear sharply defined. Finally, the darkest veins are painted with No2 paint. The entire drawing must be executed so that natural maple veins pass between the drawn veins.

If the maple tree comes from dark varieties, then to lighten it, immerse it in a solution of 1 part bleaching lime in 20 parts water and, after the tree is immersed, add 1 liter of strong vinegar to the solution, which makes the tree lighten in half an hour. Then it is placed for a day in a solution of 1 part soda in 10 parts water, after removing it, wash it and dry it. Wood treated in this way can be painted with the most delicate tones that penetrate deep into the wood.

2) For a rougher imitation of rosewood, without painting the veins, you can use the following mordant. To do this, prepare two liquids: 100 g of sandalwood is dissolved by boiling in 300 g of water; 100 g of Kassel earth and 10 g of potash are dissolved in 300 g of water. Then the two liquids are mixed together, filtered and poured into different tin vessels.

Mordant to imitate gray maple

As a gray mordant for wood, it is good to use water-soluble, durable and lightweight aniline paint nigrosin. A solution of 7 parts nigrosin in 1000 parts water paints the wood a beautiful silver-gray color, which is so durable that even after two years it does not change at all.

Mordant for imitation black tree

Smoothly planed black (ebony) wood has a pure black color without shine and has such a fine fiber structure that the latter cannot be seen with the naked eye. Specific gravity this tree is very large. Ebony is polished so well that its polished surface looks like a black mirror. In order to achieve a good imitation, you should take dense, hard varieties of wood with a delicate structure. This condition is satisfied, for example, by beech and pear trees.

1) Objects with carefully smoothed surfaces are etched with sulfuric acid, after which they are washed with water and dried. After treatment with this acid, the objects are etched with a solution of logwood or iron mordant.

In the first case, having prepared a 10% solution of logwood in water, cover objects with it, then allow them to dry and then treat them with a 1% solution of potassium dichromate in water.

In the second case, they use an iron mordant, which is prepared as follows: treat the old iron for several weeks with strong vinegar, taking 10 parts of vinegar for 1 part by weight of iron. Then boil 1 part by weight of ink nuts with 10 parts by weight of water. The object to be painted is placed for several days in the resulting solution of ferric acetate (1st solution), then dried in air, after which it is also placed in a decoction of ink nuts for several days. If the size of the object is inconvenient to immerse in liquid, then it is treated with a brush several times with a decoction of ink nuts until a dark yellow color is obtained and then coated with a solution of ferrous acetate or a solution of ferrous sulfate until a black color is obtained. In both cases, the operation is carried out until the color of the desired thickness is obtained. It is even better to cover the object alternately with an infusion of ink nuts, then with an infusion of iron acetate or iron sulfate, and each time you need to let the surface of the object dry and then cover it again.

2) An extremely beautiful black color of wood can be achieved by treating it with black aniline dye nigrosin, which dissolves in water. For this purpose, dissolve 8 parts by weight of nigrosin in 10 parts of water and cover the object with this solution. After drying, a solution of copper in hydrochloric acid is applied to it, which is prepared from 20 parts by weight of hydrochloric acid and 1 part by weight of copper. Immediately after applying the copper chloride solution, the wood takes on a beautiful matte black color, very similar to the color of real black (ebony) wood. Polishing gives it a strong shine.

Waxing wood

There is the following simple method, quite suitable for preparing wax for expensive waxing: wooden furniture. Take 100 g of good yellow wax, chop it finely and add 12 g of mastic or 25 g of rosin crushed into powder. These substances are placed in a clay vessel and dissolved on coals. When the entire mass has melted, remove it from the heat and immediately add 50 g of warm turpentine. Mix everything thoroughly and pour into a tin or mason jar. The composition is stored in this form until use. To polish furniture, take a small amount of woolen cloth and rub the wood, which quickly acquires a very beautiful and soft shine. Furniture waxed in this way retains a beautiful polish for a very long time.

Bronzing wood

Diluted solution liquid glass They evenly coat wooden objects with a brush, and then they are sprinkled with gold bronze from a jar, the neck of which is tied with muslin. After drying, bronze sticks to the object so strongly that its surface can even be polished with agate. This method is recommended for bronzed frames for paintings and other items.