Fuchsia does not gain color. What kind of care does fuchsia need to bloom? Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

IN last years fuchsia has become one of the most popular indoor plants. They love it for its lush, very beautiful flowering, variety of species and colors. Proper care of fuchsias at home is the key long flowering and high decorative value of the plant. Creation of favorable conditions, temperature regime, the correct watering schedule - all the details are described in detail in this article.

One of the most beautiful representatives of the fireweed family. evergreen shrub originally from South and Central America. Feature- stems of a reddish hue and small oval leaves. As a houseplant, fuchsia is a hybrid of various colors and shapes.

Breeders have developed interesting varieties with regular and double flowers. Two-color varieties are highly prized. The flowers are held on long, thin stalks, shaped like Chinese lanterns.

Grown as compact bushes, as an ampelous crop or a standard tree. Fuchsia looks beautiful in the garden in compositions with other flowers. The flowering periods of individual varieties vary - making up collections of different varieties, achieve flowering from early spring to late autumn.

Important! In winter, fuchsia enters a dormant phase. During this period, the plant’s strength is restored and flower buds are laid. For abundant flowering in next season create favorable conditions recreation. In mid-autumn, watering is gradually reduced and fertilizers are stopped. Closer to winter, the flower pot is moved to a cool place 10-15°C. In a city apartment, the flower can be placed on a glazed, insulated balcony. Further decrease in temperature is harmful.

Varieties and varieties

All varieties of fuchsia have pronounced characteristics. They differ in colors, shapes of leaves and flowers.

  • Fuchsia trifoliata. Compact, low bush. The height rarely exceeds 50 cm. The branching is abundant, the branches are pubescent. Round, jagged leaves are collected in several pieces. The flowers are not large, deep red.
  • Fuchsia is elegant.
  • The plant is a shrub type, grows up to a meter. The branches are reddish. The flowers are shaped like bells. The variety includes dozens of artificially bred varieties. It is distinguished by increased decorativeness and a variety of colors. Various hybrids are designed for growing indoors or in open ground.
  • Fuchsia Boliviana. The shrub is no higher than a meter. The leaves are oval, relatively large, with a pointed tip.
  • Fuchsia Magellanica. They are called conical and multi-colored. In nature it grows up to 5 meters. Branches with sparse purple pubescence. The flowers are axillary, solitary or forming inflorescences.

Advice! I love it indoor variety fuchsias can be planted in a flowerbed for the summer. This benefits the plant. In autumn, when the temperature drops to 15°C, the flower is carefully dug up and replanted in a pot.

Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

The decorative effect and intensity of flowering depend on how to care for fuchsia. Location, lighting, and watering schedule are important.

The soil. A mixture of compost, peat, humus and coarse sand is recommended. Sand is taken twice as much as other components. From personal experience ! For friendly and lush flowering in the composition add horn or bone meal. Per liter of substrate - a tablespoon of flour.

Formation rules

Formation begins at the earliest stages of development - after rooting and the beginning of growth of the cuttings. You can use one of the most common forming methods.

  1. Upright bush. Bush varieties of fuchsia are suitable. Formation involves pinching the shoots after two pairs of leaves appear. All subsequent side shoots are pinched using the same pattern. If the distance between the nodes is small, pinching through 3 nodes is allowed.
  2. Standard tree. Bush varieties are used to form a trunk. A support is stuck into the ground next to the cutting and tied up soft material. The young trunk does not need a period of rest. Side shoots of the first order are not removed, but their growth is limited by pinching after 2-3 pairs of leaves. As they grow, they are transplanted into containers bigger size. At a height of 0.5-1 meters, pinch the top. The crown is formed according to the principle of a bush. Regular pinching makes the crown thick and even. To grow a standard tree, it is not recommended to choose varieties with large flowers.
  3. Ampel form. Only one node is left on the first shoots. Side shoots are pinched after 2 pairs of leaves. Subsequent growth is not limited.

Fuchsia is easy to shape and quickly recovers after pruning. The only negative is the delay in flowering.

Advice! It is useful to feed young plants with organic matter and fertilizers with increased content nitrogen. Adults fertilize with potassium and phosphorus for lush flowering.

Reproduction methods

At home, fuchsia is rarely grown from seeds for the purpose of propagation. Seeds collected independently in most cases do not carry characteristic features mother plant. Use better seeds purchased in a store.

  • Seeds.
  • Sow on a moist substrate without embedding, cover with film. Fuchsia seeds germinate quickly - shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. 2 months after germination, the grown seedlings are plucked, and after another two months they are transplanted into separate pots. Carefully monitor soil moisture and protect from the sun. plastic bottle. The roots appear quickly - after 4-10 days. They do not wait for the development of the root system; they are planted in the ground immediately after the first roots appear. Some gardeners prefer to root cuttings directly in the soil.

Growing problems

Fuchsias contribute bright colors to apartments and flower arrangements in the flower beds. They have earned the love of flower growers around the world for their beautiful colors and abundant flowering.

Many people think that growing fuchsia is not at all difficult, because the plant is quite easy to care for. But this seems only at first glance; as practice shows, fuchsia is quite capricious.


Fuchsia often loses leaves and buds if it is disturbed, rearranged or rotated during flowering.

IN winter time in bright light it may also shed its leaves. To prevent this from happening, it is shaded and the buds that appear are removed, i.e. do not allow the plant to bloom.

Fuchsia does not like high temperatures, as a result of which it can shed its leaves and form long thin shoots.

Leaves may fall if there is too little humidity, poor watering and high temperatures.

It is extremely dangerous for fuchsia if the soil in the pot overheats (it is better to plant plants in light pots, they heat up less). This can even lead to the death of the plant, because... it has very tender roots. You can correct the situation by placing the pot in a flowerpot to create an air gap.

Pests that sometimes appear on fuchsia (whiteflies and mites) can also cause leaf fall. In this case, the leaves on both sides and the ground are treated with fitoverm, actellik or actara according to the instructions included with these preparations.

In order for fuchsia to grow and develop well, it is necessary to maintain favorable conditions for it.

1. Wintering is very important for fuchsia. The plant should overwinter in a cool room at a temperature of 6-12 degrees.

2. Considering that fuchsia loves an abundance of bright but diffused light, it is better to place it on windows facing east or west.

On a south-facing window, fuchsia should be protected from direct sunlight. When it is located in a northern window, and even shaded by trees, the fuchsia stems stretch out, it blooms sparingly, the leaves and flowers become smaller.

3. Watering is probably the most important thing for fuchsias. Water it regularly with settled water. room temperature. In this case, the water should not stagnate in the pan - it must be drained.

From March to September, fuchsia is watered after the top layer of soil has slightly dried out. From October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November it almost stops. This promotes more abundant flowering in the future and does not allow the shoots to stretch.

4. Fuchsia is very responsive to spraying. From May to August, it is advisable to spray the plant twice a day in the morning and evening, and in the fall two to three times a week.

5. This capricious beauty does not need feeding from October to March. But in other months, fuchsia is fed every two to three weeks with fertilizer for flowering plants.

6. Fuchsia usually blooms from May to November. During this entire period, faded flowers are removed, which promotes the formation of new buds.

7. Given that flower buds are formed only on young shoots, old bare stems are cut off, and young stems are pinched after the second or third internodes. This also contributes to better tillering. If the density is not enough, the shoots that have grown back after the first pinching are shortened again (after the second pair of leaves).

The last pinching is done no later than the end of April. If this procedure is carried out later, flowering will be pushed closer to autumn, since fuchsia usually takes about two months to form buds and bloom.

By observing all of the above conditions, you can not only protect fuchsia from leaf fall, but also form an original tree. To do this, vertically growing shoots are attached to a support and all side shoots are cut off until the trunk reaches the desired height. After this, the top is cut off and three to five side shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree.

Fuchsia is a very beautiful indoor plant. It is of great interest due to its abundant and long flowering from spring to late autumn. Moreover, breeders have developed a huge number of different varieties. There are ampelous and bush varieties.

Fuchsias can be grown in hanging baskets and formed from them. standard trees or beautiful bushes. With just a little effort, lush flowers with beautiful skirts will delight you with blooms and bright colors.

Fuchsia prefers bright, diffused light. Able to tolerate evening and morning sun rays. Suitable for growing near windows with western and eastern exposure. Windows with southern exposure should be shaded from direct sunlight. Near the northern window, the plant may bloom weaker and stretch out more. Keep in mind that a blooming fuchsia should never be rotated or rearranged - this may cause the buds and flowers to fall off. Exhibiting fuchsia in the summer open air remember that the plant should be accustomed to the new level of illumination gradually to avoid sunburn.

Fuchsias die in the heat from overheating of the roots, so it is recommended to grow fuchsias in ceramic pots rather than in plastic ones, in which the roots become hotter.

To prevent plants from dying, remove them from bright sun. Try to keep the pot itself protected from direct sunlight. It can be wrapped in light paper. On a hot afternoon, it is best to move fuchsias to the back of the room or in the shade.

During the growing season, fuchsia prefers temperatures around 18-25C. The plant feels great in the fresh air.
It can become a decoration for your balcony, just try to protect it from wind and direct midday sunlight. In winter, it is best to find a bright and, if possible, cool place for the plant. The optimal temperature at this time of year is 5-10°C, which is almost impossible in city apartments.

Fuchsia is able to overwinter at room temperature: in this case, it partially or even completely sheds its leaves, and the shoots stretch out. The plant does not tolerate stagnant air. When ventilating the room, especially in winter, make sure that there are no drafts - fuchsia does not tolerate them.

From spring to autumn, fuchsia is watered abundantly with soft, settled water as the top layer of the substrate dries. The soil in the pot should be slightly moist at all times. To get abundant flowering in summer, watering is reduced towards the end of the growing season, and almost stopped in October - November. In winter, when kept at cool temperatures, they are watered rarely; if kept at room temperature, watering is carried out somewhat more often.

During the growing season, fuchsia prefers high air humidity and responds gratefully to spraying with soft, settled water (twice in the summer on hot days - in the morning and in the evening). Spraying is stopped in the fall; spraying is avoided in winter.

For successful plant growth during the growing season (from spring to autumn), complex fertilizing should be carried out. mineral fertilizers Once every 2-3 weeks. Nitrogen fertilizers(more precisely, complex, but with a high nitrogen content) can and should be used, but during the growth period: in early spring or when you grow cuttings. And after the buds appear, you need to switch to floral ones (i.e. with a high content of phosphorus and potassium). In winter, the plant is not fed.

With good watering and feeding, fuchsias bloom luxuriously starting in late spring. Flowering occurs profusely and continues until late autumn. The fruits are juicy and berry-shaped. U blooming fuchsias It is necessary to remove faded flowers to stimulate the formation of new buds. To prolong flowering until late autumn or winter, fuchsias are kept indoors until June, then taken out to the balcony or front garden and pruned several times during the summer.

Up to 3 years - every year, after - every 2-3 years During the period of active growth 22-24, during the rest period 5-12 During the period of active growth - when it dries out upper layer soil, in winter 1-2 times a month On hot days - morning and evening every day. During the dormant period - do not spray Western and eastern windows During flowering, you cannot move the flower to another place.

Lighting

Fuchsia is a light-loving plant, but it does not tolerate bright sunlight at midday.

That's why optimal place for her - windows facing east and west. The gentle morning and evening rays of the sun will be just right.

If the flower is on a south window, shading will be needed, for example, using a transparent curtain. On a windowsill on the north side, fuchsia will also not disappear, but it will become very elongated, the flowers will become small and pale, and their number will be significantly reduced.

For a flower, it is better to immediately decide on its place. It is better not to rearrange fuchsia during flowering., because this can cause it to drop buds and even leaves. IN warm time year, fuchsia can be taken out onto the balcony or into the garden. However, she needs to be accustomed to new things gradually to avoid burns.

Temperature

During the period of active growth and flowering (spring and summer), fuchsia feels best at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. In the summer, especially in August, it can be taken out Fresh air. However, when temperatures rise above 30 degrees, the plant may begin to shed flowers, then leaves, and may even dry out.

High air temperatures are detrimental to fuchsia

Therefore, under such conditions, the flower must be protected from sunlight and try to be placed in a cooler place. In hot conditions, sensitive roots need to be protected. Large ceramic – the best option, since its plastic counterpart heats up very quickly.

in winter optimal temperature for fuchsia 5-12 degrees. Such conditions can be on a cold window sill, a glazed and insulated balcony, or near balcony doors. At this time, the plant is dormant, and the low temperature ensures abundant flowering in the subsequent growth period.

Fuchsia can tolerate room temperature in winter. But then the flower sheds some of its leaves and becomes very elongated, and in the spring it will bloom weakly or not produce any buds at all.

Fuchsia loves fresh air, but does not tolerate drafts well. When ventilating a room, it is important to take these factors into account.

Watering

In spring and summer, during active growth and flowering, fuchsia requires abundant watering. However, you cannot overdo it - the roots may begin to rot and the plant will die. Watering should be done when the top layer of soil in the pot has dried out a little.. The water should be settled, soft, and at room temperature.

As flowering comes to an end, watering is reduced. In winter, if the room is cool (up to 12 degrees), you need to water the plant 1-2 times a month.

Fuchsia is very demanding when it comes to watering and does not tolerate drying out of the soil. Complete drying of the earthen coma leads to the death of the plant. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil in the flower pot. With a lack of moisture, the leaves droop and look lethargic, and the plant itself may drop flowers and buds.

During cool wintering, the soil in the fuchsia pot should remain moist. Reducing watering is due to the fact that at low temperatures and excess moisture, pathogenic fungi quickly multiply, leading to root rot. But excessive dryness of the soil in winter is just as harmful for the plant as in summer.

The soil for fuchsias should be fertile, contain enough humus and retain water well.

You can buy ready-made slightly acidic soil in the store - suitable substrate for flowering plants. Or cook it yourself. Composition examples:

  • Peat, deciduous soil, sand (2:3:1);
  • Greenhouse soil, clay- turf land, sand (2:3:1), some peat chips;
  • Peat, sand, leaf and turf soil, humus (1:1:1:1:1).

Among the best soil mixtures for fuchsia peat should be no more than 1/5. This material tends to dry out in the upper part of the pot and retain moisture in the lower part. Therefore, a large amount of peat leads to stagnation of water at the roots of the plant, which is invisible, since the top layer of soil quickly dries out. This leads to disease of the root system and even death of the plant.

During the period of flowering and growth, fuchsia needs regular feeding, especially with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Purchased fertilizers are suitable for flowering plants or specifically for fuchsias.. Nitrogen is relevant for young plants - it stimulates growth, potassium and phosphorus - for adults - they enhance flowering.

Mineral ones can be alternated with organic ones. Sometimes it is appropriate to carry out foliar feeding - spraying along the bottom of the leaves - with a weak fertilizer solution.

Feeding is carried out once every 7-10 days in spring and summer, and is stopped during the dormant period.

Humidity

High air humidity is ideal conditions for fuchsia. Therefore, especially on hot summer days, it is recommended to spray it with a spray bottle in the morning and evening.

You can place a container of water near the plant. This will also increase the humidity environment. If the plant does not have buds or flowers, you can give it a warm shower.

During the dormant period, high humidity can be harmful. Therefore, from autumn to the end of winter water procedures stop.

Spraying on hot summer days in the morning and evening.

Diseases

Let's look at how to care for fuchsia at home during illness. The main ones that attack fuchsia are whitefly and spider mite. To get rid of them, the plant needs to be “bathed” in a warm soapy solution. If this does not help, then three times treatment with Fitoverm or Aktara with an interval of 7 days is indicated.

Diseases that affect fuchsia are black leg on young cuttings, rust on leaves. It is better to get rid of affected plants.

Due to excessive soil moisture, the plant can be affected by root rot. The first symptom of this disease is loss of leaf elasticity. The leaves droop as if there is a lack of moisture. Therefore, inexperienced gardeners tend to water the plant, aggravating the course of the disease. Usually, a flower affected by root rot cannot be saved. It is recommended to cut cuttings from healthy shoots and root them.

Problems

Reproduction

Now let's study the propagation of fuchsia at home by cuttings. The simplest and effective method propagation of fuchsia - cuttings. It is propagated by apical and stem cuttings. They are harvested in early spring during planned formative pruning. But you can cut and root the cuttings you like at any other time of the year except winter.

Cuttings are taken from healthy strong shoots. They must be at least 7 cm in length and have several internodes. They are rooted in water or soil.

The easiest way to root is in water. The cuttings are placed in a shallow glass with boiled water at room temperature. After 2-3 weeks the first roots appear. When they reach a length of 4-5 cm, the cuttings can be planted in separate pots.

For rooting in the ground, you can take washed river sand or a mixture of garden soil and peat in equal parts. The cuttings are dropped into a moistened substrate and placed in partial shade. The substrate is moistened as it dries. Cuttings take longer to root in soil than in water. Sometimes it takes 1 month or more for them to develop a root system.

Root growth stimulants are usually not used to propagate fuchsia. Up to 100% of cuttings take root in water and soil.

Rooted cuttings are planted in small pots with fuchsia soil. It is recommended to plant several cuttings at once in one pot to get a decorative and lush plant. They are watered regularly and kept in partial shade for the first 2 weeks. Then the seedlings are gradually accustomed to bright, diffused lighting.

Below you will learn how to propagate fuchsia at home using seeds.

Transfer

Fuchsia is replanted in early spring before the growing season begins. Young plants, the root system of which develops quickly, are replanted annually. Adult flowers need every 2-3 years and even less often. Fuchsia does not tolerate transplantation well, therefore, until its roots have outgrown the pot, this procedure is not carried out.

To transplant fuchsia at home, you need a small and low pot. It should be 1-1.5 cm wider than the previous one.

You should not replant the flower into a spacious pot - problems with flowering may occur. Until the roots of fuchsia have mastered the entire earthen ball, it will increase leaf mass, but not bloom. Therefore, it blooms best in cramped pots.

To the bottom flower pot drainage needs to be installed for drain excess water. In addition to pebbles and expanded clay, you can put pieces there charcoal to protect the root system from rot.

The plant is replanted by transshipment in order to damage the roots as little as possible. It is carefully removed from the pot along with the soil and placed in a new pot.

To fill the volume, use fresh earth mixture for fuchsias. The plant should not be deeply buried. It should be no lower after the transplant than before it. After the procedure is completed, the flower is watered and placed in partial shade for 1-2 weeks.

Plant care in winter

The most difficult thing in caring for fuchsia is organizing a cool winter for this plant. Depends on further growth and plant flowering. The main task of keeping fuchsia in winter is to slow down its growth. Therefore, the air temperature is reduced as much as possible, but it should not fall below 5ºC. It is also important to timely moisten the soil and good lighting.

Fuchsia overwinters best on insulated and glassed balcony or loggias. Here in winter the temperature suitable for its wintering is established. Also, under these conditions, the plant can be provided with good lighting, which is also important for maintaining powerful shoots.

How to water fuchsia in winter?

During the dormant period, fuchsia is rarely watered. At low temperatures, the soil in the pot dries out very slowly, so water it no more than 2 times a month.

Overmoistening in such conditions is detrimental to the flower, since there is a high risk of developing pathogenic fungal infections. During cold wintering the flower does not need spraying.

If it is not possible to move the flower to a cold room, you can organize wintering on the windowsill.

To grow fuchsia, choose the coldest window sill, far from the radiators and facing southeast. It can be quite cold in such a place in winter. To reduce the temperature, you can open the window for light ventilation.

It is impossible to install enough on the windowsill in the apartment low temperature, so the flower will grow. But its increase will be much less than at room temperature. And good lighting will prevent the shoots from stretching, which will ensure abundant flowering in summer period.

Now you know the features of caring for fuchsia in winter at home.

Growing fuchsia from seeds

Consider growing fuchsia from seeds at home. Fuchsia can be propagated by seeds, although this is extremely rarely practiced in indoor culture. This method is very labor-intensive, it is much more complicated vegetative propagation plants. However, some gardeners still grow varietal specimens from seeds.

Fuchsia seeds can be purchased at specialty stores or garden centers. However, it is advisable to take them from trusted suppliers. You can often buy expired seeds, the germination rate of which drops significantly over time.

You can also get fuchsia seeds at home. To do this you need to have 2 flowering plants. The flower is pollinated artificially, after which a fruit grows from it. Fully ripened fruits are removed and cut to allow the seeds to dry. Then they are removed and stored for no more than 1 year.

The best time to sow seeds is the end of March or the beginning of April. Sow them in small containers filled with moistened peat soil. To prepare such soil, you need to mix peat and coarse sand in equal parts. Seeds should not be covered with substrate. They need to be placed on top and lightly pressed into it.

Cover the container with seeds transparent film or glass and kept at a temperature of 15-20ºС. Every day the film should be removed for 10-15 minutes for ventilation. The first shoots in such conditions appear after 2 weeks.

When the first leaf appears on the seedlings, the film is removed daily for more than long time, accustoming them to new conditions of existence. After 1-2 weeks they open completely. Seedlings are kept in bright, but diffused light and periodically sprayed with water at room temperature.

When the seedlings have 3 leaves, they can be planted in separate pots. They are replanted with a clod of earth, adding soil for growing adult fuchsias into the pot. After transplantation, they are placed in partial shade for adaptation for 1 week.

Photo of fuchsia in the process of care at home and in the garden:

Video

We recommend that you watch a useful video on the topic of the article:

Now you know everything about caring for and growing fuchsia at home, as well as replanting and propagating the plant.

Fuchsia is perennial, native to Central and South America and New Zealand. Indoor fuchsia is a hybrid plant and has many varieties and forms. It has been cultivated for more than 200 years, and flower growers call it “Japanese lantern” or “ballerina”.

IN natural conditions fuchsia has the appearance of a shrub with flexible branches. The leaves of the plant are green or reddish, have an oval, slightly pointed shape with jagged edges. The flowers consist of a calyx and a tubular corolla with curved edges. The plant blooms for a long time and profusely with drooping flowers. The stamens are longer than the calyx, the calyx lobes are longer than the petals. Fuchsia flowers appear on long stalks and come in colors of white, pink, orange, red, cream, lilac and violet.

Fuchsia does not require in the house complex care, but the gardener needs to know some nuances in this regard. There are recommendations for choosing seedlings, caring for the plant during dormancy and flowering, replanting and pruning.

Did you know? Fuchsia selection has been going on for more than 200 years. During this period, approximately 15,000 varieties and hybrids of this plant were bred.

How to choose the right fuchsia seedlings in the store

In stores, fuchsia is sold singly or in 3-4 cuttings. This depends on the size of the pot in which the plant is grown. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the following points:


If the seedlings look good, but the leaves are small, the plant will not take root as quickly. decorative look. Small leaves may indicate insufficient watering and fertilizing.

It’s bad if the seedlings in the store are in a dark place and are poorly watered. The buds of such plants may fall off and the leaves turn yellow.

When purchasing fuchsia seedlings, it is important to make sure that they are free of pests. To do this, you need to inspect the underside of the leaves, and if there are no spots or dots there, then everything is in order. Also, after shaking the plant, whiteflies should not fly out of it; it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Caring for fuchsia at home

Caring for fuchsia at home is easy. There are few secrets to caring for fuchsia, and they are all simple.

Fuchsia loves cool rooms; in summer the temperature should not exceed 20 degrees. A northern or eastern window sill is suitable for it. In summer, the plant needs to be saved from stuffiness; if possible, he needs to provide a place on the balcony or in the yard, where the sun's rays will only fall in the morning. The rest of the day, it is better for fuchsia to be in partial shade. If there are no options for placing the plant in the house in light with diffused sunlight, fuchsia also feels good in artificial light.

Watering the plant should be regular, which is especially important during the period of growth and flowering. The water needs to be filtered or settled. Spraying with water in the summer is also very useful; it refreshes the plant. Air humidification can also be achieved by placing the plant pot in a pan of water.

Important! If the leaves of a plant are withered, it needs not only to be watered, but also sprayed with water. After these procedures, the fuchsia is covered non-woven material- this is done to restore the elasticity of the leaves.

From spring to autumn there is a period of active growth, reproduction and flowering of the plant. It is necessary to take care of what to feed fuchsia in the spring, as this will play a huge role in the active period of the plant’s life. During flowering, fertilizers containing a lot of potassium and phosphorus are preferable for the flower.

With proper care, indoor fuchsia will delight its owner with its delicate flowers for many years.

Features of care during the flowering period

When fuchsia blooms, there are some special recommendations for caring for it. During the flowering period, watering should be sufficient and regular. Stagnation of moisture in the roots is unacceptable, but the plant must be watered after the top layer of soil has dried.


Fuchsia is sensitive to changes, so especially during the flowering period, you should not rearrange or rotate the plant.

Such actions are fraught with the falling of flowers and buds. Many plants cannot be replanted during flowering; this rule also applies to fuchsia. As for feeding, for example, the Kemira Lux fertilizer contains nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, manganese, boron, copper, molybdenum. It is very suitable for feeding fuchsia. From the moment the buds appear, you can water the fuchsia liquid fertilizer

Did you know? for flowering plants once a week.

If flowering weakens and new leaves become small, this indicates the need to feed the plant.

Replanting and pruning fuchsia Fuchsia is replanted as needed. It occurs after purchasing a plant, and also as the pot becomes small. The soil for fuchsia consists of turf and leaf soil , sand, peat and humus, which are taken in equal parts. You can use ready-made purchased soil

for a plant. It is very important to place drainage at the bottom of the pot. Ordinary expanded clay can serve as drainage, with soil placed on top of it.

The plant is placed in a new pot with a lump of earth in which it grew. The remaining voids are filled with soil mixture.

After transplantation, the fuchsia is placed in the light, the length of the stems is cut by one third, watered and sprayed well. If the procedure was carried out correctly, the plant will produce many flowers.

New fuchsia owners often have a question about when to prune fuchsia. It is recommended to prune fuchsia twice a year: in early October, when the growing season is over, and in early January.

During the first pruning, all faded stems are removed. It is worth cutting 2 cm above the dormant buds. The second pruning is intended for the final formation of the crown.

Important! When a plant first gets into the house, it needs to adapt. Flower growers often wonder when and how to pinch fuchsia after purchase in order to shape it as desired. After adaptation and rooting, the plant produces new leaves. At this point you need to pinch the top of the plant. To make the plant more floriferous and leafy, new shoots are also pinched. It is very important to form fuchsia correctly hanging varieties

. They can form long shoots if you do not pinch them off in time. Such shoots bloom only at the ends. If you shorten them, new flowers will appear no earlier than after 3-4 weeks.

IN Optimal wintering conditions for plants different seasons fuchsia is worried different stages

your life and development. In addition to periods of active growth and flowering, you need to know what to do with fuchsia in autumn and winter.

If during periods of active growth and flowering soil moisture is necessary quite often, then in the fall the frequency of watering is reduced, and in winter it is watered 1-2 times a month.

In winter, the air temperature in a room with fuchsia should be up to 15°C. The plant will be comfortable at 8-10 degrees. Wintering fuchsia in an apartment is possible on a balcony or loggia, but you should make sure that the temperature there is not too low. By the way, you should not fertilize fuchsia in winter.

During wintering, it is important that the plant rests properly. Having regained its strength, in the new season fuchsia will produce abundant flowering that will last a long time. To gain strength from the plant, it must be pruned and all pests removed before winter dormancy.

Two methods of reproduction


Fuchsia is usually propagated in two ways - by seeds and cuttings. Propagation by seeds.

Propagation by seeds is mainly of interest to breeders. This is due to the fact that fuchsia grown from seed does not retain the characteristics of the original plant (it extremely rarely does).

After the fruit ripens, it is cut to extract the seeds, which later need to be dried.

Fuchsia seeds are sown on a moist substrate without planting. Greenhouse conditions are created for the container with good lighting and room temperature. In a few weeks, shoots should appear. After a couple of months, the sprouts are planted, after which after another couple of months they are planted in separate pots.

TO external environment Seedlings need to be acclimated gradually, since without adaptation to non-greenhouse conditions they may wither and die.

Fuchsia known to flower growers as a charming plant with flowers called who " Chinese lanterns ", Who " ballerinas", a very popular and unpretentious plant. But this one indoor flower, nestled comfortably on an ordinary windowsill, was a mighty tree that grew in abundance in New Zealand and Central America in time immemorial.

In indoor floriculture, hybrid fuchsia is mainly grown ( Fuchsia hybrida), numbering a huge number of varieties, both double and semi-double, white, burgundy, red, purple.

Fuchsia - home care

Content temperature

In the warm season, the optimal temperature for fuchsia will be within +20-25 degrees. In principle, higher temperatures are allowed, but not too much. When the temperature rises to +30 degrees, fuchsia can shed its leaves. This should be especially taken into account if you plant it in the summer open ground, which is not only allowed, but also has a beneficial effect on her. But in this case it must be planted in a place where heating to a critical temperature is excluded. In the summer, many gardeners treat fuchsia as if it were a plant, that is, they dig it into the ground along with the pot. This will allow you to quickly change its location without damaging the plant.

In winter, this indoor plant must be given a rest. Accordingly, the temperature during this period should be significantly reduced (about +8-12 degrees). But severe hypothermia is just as dangerous as overheating. This especially applies to the root system. To maintain optimal winter temperatures, fuchsia is placed on the windowsill at this time, where the required temperature is most likely. In order to avoid hypothermia of the roots from a cold window sill or, on the contrary, overheating from a window sill heated by a radiator, the flower pot must be isolated from it. This is easy to do - place the pot on a suitable piece of foam.

Lighting

Indoor fuchsia is a light-loving flower, but the light for it should be, although bright, diffused, without midday sunlight, which poses a danger to most indoor plants. At home best place for the absolute majority indoor flowers, and fuchsia in particular, these are windows oriented to the east or west. Even if a certain amount of sunlight hits the flower in the morning or evening hours, it will only benefit it. The same rule should be used if you plant fuchsia in open ground.

Note. During flowering, you cannot rearrange or rotate the flower! This can trigger the shedding of flowers and buds.

Watering, air humidity and fertilizers

Fuchsia, which is essentially very simple to care for at home, is still demanding proper watering. During the period of active development, which occurs in the spring-summer period, it must be watered regularly and abundantly. But regularity does not mean continuous watering and waterlogging of the soil. Here it is necessary to follow the rule of the “golden mean”. The smartest thing to do is to water the fuchsia as soon as the top layer of soil in the pot dries.. This way, you will protect it from drying out and overflowing.

In winter, watering is significantly reduced. Some seasoned gardeners recommend not watering it at all in October-November, but I would not recommend novice gardeners to do this. Let the soil dry (not completely), and then water it. In general, it is recommended to water fuchsia once or twice a month if it is kept cool. It would be enough. For watering at any time of the year, use settled water, preferably soft and, of course, not cold.

In summer, try to spray the flower regularly. Fuchsia loves it. Others can also be used. During the dormant period, the flower should not be sprayed.

Fuchsia is fed only during the growing season. Starting from March and until the onset of autumn, it can be fed with any complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants weekly (fertilizers for). From the end of summer, fertilizing should be gradually reduced, and with the onset of the dormant period, it should be stopped altogether.

Transfer

At home, replanting fuchsia is a mandatory and annual event, regardless of the age of the plant. It is carried out in the spring, before the start of the growing season. During the same period, other manipulations with the plant are carried out that accompany the transplantation. Be sure to prune the plant before planting. Remove dried, weak or, on the contrary, elongated (fatten) shoots completely. Cut the rest by a third. Taking the plant out of the pot, be sure to check the roots. Remove damaged areas, if any.

The best way to plant fuchsia is ceramic pot. It will better protect the root system from overheating and hypothermia than plastic. With each transplant, take a pot slightly larger than the previous one, about 1-2 centimeters in diameter.

Unpretentious fuchsia does not make any special demands on the composition of the soil. There are many soil mixtures on sale that are suitable for replanting. This is usually light, loose soil. If you want to make your own soil for fuchsia, you can mix the following ingredients:

  • Leaf soil - three parts;
  • Peat - two parts;
  • Sand (or perlite) - one part

It is highly advisable to add wood ash to the mixture.. It can also be added to purchased mixture, if it is not contained in it.

Be sure to provide.

Fuchsia propagation

Three methods of reproduction are used: seeds, leaves and cuttings. The first two methods are used much less frequently. But this does not mean that they are less effective. They are simply more labor-intensive and take much longer to get results. Beginner gardeners (and experienced ones too...) prefer propagation by cuttings. That's where we'll start.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

This can be done both in spring and autumn. Autumn propagation (August-September) is used mainly for slow-growing varieties. Most often, cuttings are taken in February-March, in which case flowering may occur in the same year.

  • Cuttings for propagation are taken small (6-10 centimeters long) from the top of the plant, cutting them off under the lower bud.
  • The lower leaves must be removed, leaving 3, maximum 4 pairs.
  • You can root cuttings in loose (peaty) soil, in wet sand, and in water. For beginner flower growers, I would recommend the last method, for clarity.
  • After about 20-25 days (possibly earlier), the cutting will produce roots sufficient to be planted in a pot. For young fuchsias, the composition of the soil should be as nutritious as possible. A mixture (in equal parts) of leaf, turf, humus soil and sand is recommended.

Propagation of fuchsia by leaf

  • In this case, you need to take not just a separate leaf, but cut it off with a small piece of the stem.
  • The petiole with a piece of stem is buried in the ground (about 1 cm). To do this, you can take the nutrient mixture described above.
  • The soil and leaf are moistened and covered with a transparent cap (jar, PE bag, etc.).
  • For better rooting, the leaf should be sprayed daily.
  • After the young rosettes of the plant appear, they can be replanted.

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds

This process is quite complicated, so I would not recommend it to novice gardeners. Just as an experiment. The difficulty is to properly pollinate the flowers of the plant. Self-pollination of the mother plant is unacceptable! Requires artificial pollination. If not all flowers are pollinated, then the pollinated one must be isolated from the rest by placing a protective film cap on it. After the flower bears fruit and it has matured, you can collect the seeds and begin sowing.

This procedure is simple and not much different from obtaining plants from seeds. The only thing I would like to note is that there is no need to bury the seeds in the ground, it is enough to scatter them on the surface of the moistened soil.

This method, despite its complexity and labor intensity, is quite interesting. After all, in this process you can truly get YOUR flower, with a unique color. So, even novice flower growers can feel like real breeders.

Pruning fuchsia

Proper pruning of the plant will not only give the bush a neat appearance, but also stimulate more abundant and lush flowering. In addition to pre-transplant pruning, there are other types of pruning.

Pruning is carried out throughout the summer. Long shoots are selectively pruned, which will subsequently produce new flowers in the fall.

Krona correct form can be formed by evenly cutting off the shoots, leaving two to four pairs of leaves on them.

Looks very nice standard form fuchsia. It's easy to get. It is enough to remove all the side branches of the plant to the desired height. For stability, the central stem of the flower is attached to a support.

And, of course, immediately after rooting the cutting, you need to take care of the future type of the plant. Once established in the permanent pot, be sure to pinch off the top.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

This question comes up most often. And the reasons may be different.

The most common reason is a warm winter. If at home you cannot provide the plant with the necessary winter temperature, then in the spring, carry out a more radical pruning of the shoots.

The second reason is that the pot is too spacious. Fuchsia, like many flowering plants(, for example) will not bloom until its roots completely entwine the earthen ball.

Lack of light is another reason. It can be easily removed...

Despite all the love for watering, it is excessive waterlogging that can be the reason that fuchsia does not bloom. Organize your watering.

Be sure to feed the plant. Lack of necessary nutrients may cause this problem.

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