Optimal temperature for growing lemon at home. Soil acidity and its importance for citrus fruits Which soil is better to choose for a citrus plant?
Properly selected soil for citrus trees and shrubs plays the same role important role, like regular watering, compliance temperature regime and illumination. The soil in which any citrus crop develops must have good air and moisture permeability and be saturated with useful substances and mineral components. It is equally important to consider the pH level. Ready-made soil can be purchased in specialized stores or you can prepare a soil mixture at home.
Each type of citrus requires a specific soil
The need to replant citrus fruits
Systematic replanting of trees improves fruiting: the procedure makes it possible for fruits to become tastier and juicier. It is not recommended to replant the plant during dormancy.
Despite the acquisition useful properties, a noticeable disadvantage of replanting fruit trees is less fruiting.
The main mistake novice gardeners make is pouring soil into the pot in layers. Before use, mix the soil mixture thoroughly and then begin replanting the plant.
Soils absorb moisture differently. It may happen that the top layer is wet and the bottom layer is dry, so the plant will die.
The plant needs to be replanted in early spring. Some require larger pots, but if the container is suitable, the top layer of soil should be replaced. It won't be difficult to prepare soil mixture at home. To do this you will need:
- meadow chernozem;
- compost;
- thorn ground;
- ordinary peat.
Mix all ingredients in approximately equal quantities. To kill bacteria and insects in the mixture that can harm plant growth, you need to place the mixture in the oven and keep it for 20–25 minutes at a temperature of 150–200 °C. Let the cooled mixture stand for 2-3 weeks. The soil is ready.
Soil requirements for citrus fruits
The largest percentage of land purchased in stores consists of peat. This is not bad: light soils allow moisture to pass through without problems, which is beneficial for the development of the root system. However, it should be taken into account that manufacturers add fertilizers to soil mixtures, therefore, after six months, the soil is depleted and the crop may die. Usually it is written on the packages which fertilizer is suitable for the mixture in order to equalize the balance of substances needed by the plant.
Too light peat mixtures are also not ideal for growing lemon tree for one more reason. The occurrence of rot in the soil prevents oxygen from reaching the root system, creating unfavorable conditions for full growth.
Heavy soil compositions are undesirable for the growth of citrus fruits at the initial stage. Chernozem tends to get confused, which later becomes a barrier to the full development of the root system.
The roots continue their development along the walls of the pot, and the main micro- and macroelements remain outside the accessible zone. Root development in chernozem is especially poor in crops such as grapefruit and pomelo. For lemon and orange bushes, a black soil base is more acceptable. As the tree grows, it becomes more accepting of the heavy, nutritious soil base.
The basis of the soil is black soil
Soil made from black soil and forest soil (preferably an oak grove) is suitable for favorable growth of citrus fruits. By combining them in equal quantities, you can get an airy and nutrient-filled mixture that does not require additional fertilizers.
For city residents, it is problematic to get “easy” land. Any existing heavy compositions can be diluted with purchased leavening agents: perlite, vermiculite, coconut flakes (not culinary).
Expensive professional peat-based soils are good for those who do not have the opportunity to make soil mixtures themselves, but cheap ones can damage the plant.
Soil acidity
Experienced gardeners regularly monitor soil acidity. The main reason for incorrect acidity is watering the bushes with hard water. Here, the density of the soil is taken into account, on which the impregnation of water depends. An acceptable acidity level is considered to be 7.0. Above is an alkaline environment, below is acidic, which is favorable for the citrus plant. You can acidify the soil different ways . The best option is lemon acid (1 tsp is enough for 1 liter). This proportion is not capable of harming the plant. Upon reaching desired value
pH (6.5) will promote the growth of new healthy shoots.
In heavy soil, salts accumulated on the surface make it more difficult to reduce acidity.
There are many options for testing acidity yourself. One of which is litmus paper; the alkaline number is determined by the color of the indicator strip. To do this, pour a small amount of soil with purified water and bring it to a paste. After some time, a liquid forms on the surface, to which you need to apply litmus paper. Results:
- pronounced red color - high level acidity pH 5.0;
- orange color - medium acidity, pH level 5.1-5.5;
- yellowish tint - acidity level from pH 5.6 to pH 6.0;
- saturated green indicates an alkaline environment with an acidity of pH 7.1 or more.
In summer, the acidity level can be easily checked using leaves from currant bushes. Place a small amount of fresh blackcurrant leaves in a glass container and pour boiling water over it. Dip a lump of earth from the pot in which the crop is growing into the cooled infusion. Reddened water indicates the unsuitability of growing a citrus tree under existing conditions.
Ideal soil mixture for citrus fruits at home
According to experts, nature has not created soil suitable for growing indoor lemons. This is due to the limited volume of soil in the pot, which prevents the plant from receiving nutrients for full development, therefore it is better to prepare the mixture for indoor citrus plants yourself. To prepare the soil mixture, components such as garden soil, humus, turf, sand, peat, and compost are useful.
To grow indoors, the soil acidity should not exceed 6 pH
garden soil
Light and nutritious, the most valuable top layer (up to 10 cm), is collected at a distance of half a meter from the fruit tree. Harvesting is most successful in the summer. The collected upper layer is sifted through a coarse sieve. The soil near mole holes is favorable, it has light friability and neutral acidity.
Leaf ground
As a result of humus of tree leaves, leaf soil is formed. To speed up decay, the collected piles of leaves are watered with water and diluted manure. This type of soil has high acidity, it is reduced by adding lime in a ratio of 500 g per 1 cubic meter. Rotting lasts 2 years.
The soil mixture is collected from perennial herbs growing on neutral soil. There are heavy (prepared for clay soils) and light (harvested at sandy soils) turf ground. Preparation of turf: the turf composition cut into layers (thickness up to 15 cm, width - 25–35 cm, length - 35–40 cm) is evenly applied in layers up to 1 m in height. For productive stimulation, dry droppings are placed between the layers. A small depression is made in the middle of the upper part to retain water. In the summer, the stacked layers must be randomly turned over, watered and manure added.
Large stacks are covered with a dark film to prevent heavy overgrowth by weeds. After 2 years, the turf soil is ready.
Before use, the turf soil must be sifted. The soil composition prepared with your own hands becomes porous and has a significant supply of nutrients.
Turf soil is under a layer of grass
Sand
It does not contain any nutrients for plant growth. Its immediate role is to impart lightness and looseness. Added sand to the general mixture prevents the appearance of fungal diseases, thereby preventing the citrus root from rotting.
Only sand collected near fresh water is favorable for the growth of citrus fruits. Before adding to the general mixture, it must be thoroughly washed. The ability of sand to retain heat and moisture is beneficial for accelerating the growth of cuttings.
young plant
Peat land
Peat is collected from high bogs, diluted with manure, thereby increasing the nutritional properties of the component. The pure form of this type of land is not suitable for use. It is added to general mixtures to reduce density and increase acidity. Thanks to its components, peat soil prevents acidification. The addition of peat mixtures prevents rapid soil decomposition.
Compost
Humus collected from leaves, grass clippings, thin branches, and straw is a good raw material for citrus fruits. The final result of the decomposition of plant residues is rich in nutrients. Composting soil is prepared in dug small size
pit. Regular watering with slurry is necessary for stimulation. A damp state promotes active rotting. Aging of the mixture until it is completely ready lasts 2 years. Ready compost has a darker shade, a uniform structure, and the ability to crumble easily. If the mixture does not reach the final result, it will have a detrimental effect on the life of the plant.
Conclusion
They are no exception; we will describe our experience based on their example.
The pot should be taken a little larger than the previous one
If you miss the moment to transplant a citrus plant, it will start to hurt, its leaves wither, growth decreases, the roots weave a web around the entire earthen lump, forming the so-called “felt”. To improve the nutrition of plants from the soil, they must be replanted periodically. Replanting indoor and house plants, including citrus lemon and tangerine will be useful if done correctly and consistently.
It's time for this plant to increase its pot size.
Transplanting indoor and domestic citrus fruits requires abundant pre-watering of the plant. This is necessary for the earthen lump to soften well. We begin the actual handling of the plant by holding the plant stem between the ring and middle fingers, pressing the palm to the ground, and turning the pot over. Gently tap the pot and shake out the plant, roots and soil. The room must have good lighting in order to be able to carefully examine the roots of the plant. If, as a result of the inspection, you determine that replant a plant It’s still early and the roots are in order, alive and there are no pests on them, then they do a “transshipment”.
When transshipping, keep a ball of earth around the roots of the plant
Transferring lemons and tangerines to a new pot is preferable to replanting. Leaving the earthen lump untouched, the plant is transferred to a larger container (4-5 cm) and soil is added. Transshipment, if necessary, can be done during flowering. If everything is done carefully and correctly, the roots are not damaged and this does not delay the development of the plant.
Citrus fruits grow best in ceramic and clay pots
If necessary replanting a houseplant, the earthen lump must be carefully “disassembled” with a sharp wooden stick. Inspect the root system carefully, remove diseased, damaged and dry roots. It should be replanted into a new container, which should not be much larger than the previous one. Sand, pebbles, broken shards and soil (substrate) appropriate for this plant must be prepared in advance.
Lemon roots without earthen clod
Which soil to choose for homemade lemon?
The choice of land for replanting a plant must be approached with special care. Its further development significantly depends on this. The soil mixture, in its main characteristics, should be similar to that in which the plant lives in its natural environment.
If the root of the plant is in order, then simply add soil to a new pot
The soil must be both nutritious, must allow air to reach the roots, be moderately loose and have needed by the plant acidity, so-called (pH). IN garden centers already widely represented ready-made soils for plants. But you shouldn’t always believe just the name on the bag; be sure to read the ingredients. Under the guise of soil, they may sell you simply peat enriched with microelements.
Be sure to read what the soil consists of
For citrus plants also sold ready land, you can use it if it has a good composition. The soil for citrus fruits should consist of a mixture of turf soil, humus, leaf soil and sand. If the bag of soil for lemons says that the composition contains only peat, then it must be mixed with river or lake sand and leaf soil, taken, for example, from a birch tree in a forest or park.
How to properly transplant a plant?
Replanting indoor lemons It is best to produce in the spring (March-April). In no case should you replant flowering and diseased ones. Unless there is a suspicion that the disease is related to the root system. When replanting, it is advisable to treat the plant root with a solution of a substance that promotes root formation; we use Kornevin. It is necessary to strictly follow the instructions on the packaging; the principle “more is better” does not work here.
Be sure to put dredge at the bottom
At the bottom of the new pot we place a layer of shards and pebbles for drainage so that the roots do not become flooded in the future. Sprinkle some prepared substrate on top of it. Place the plant with the treated root in the center of the pot and add soil to the pot. It is important that there are no voids left in the ground; to do this, you need to lightly compact the substrate around the plant. The soil should be two to three centimeters below the top edge of the pot.
Replanted in a new pot
After transplanting or transshipment, the plant is well watered with settled water. After which they are sprayed and placed in a warm, draft-free, shaded place. There is a misconception that if you transplant a plant immediately into big pot, then it will grow more intensively. This does not work, because the soil in the pot, which is not penetrated by roots, quickly turns sour, which leads to plant disease. The transplanted plant should not be fed at the root for a month after transplantation.
After a properly transplanted plant shows good growth
Earth.
In practice, over the years, it has become clear that land does not have that much influence for citrus cultivation. The biggest influences are light, heat and humidity; in comparison with them, the composition of the earth has no significant significance. The purpose of the substrate in a flowerpot is to create sufficient conditions for plant roots to small space
take water, nutrients and air.
Briefly, when growing citrus fruits, you can follow the following rules:
1. The flowerpot should not be large. Soil that is not used by the roots, especially wet soil, causes rot and turns sour. The plant withers and drops its leaves. (My experience - I planted a small lemon in a 15-liter flowerpot. It stood on the veranda all summer - in the wind, rain, sun, even hail broke the leaves. I watered it quite abundantly, with the addition of a weak infusion of chicken droppings. So I watched the plant and gave him what he lacked. The lemon became so strong and big - everyone was surprised. It’s not scientific, but it’s true in small flowerpots, and the growth is also small). 2. An abundance of water is harmful to the plant. Good drainage is needed. When replanting a plant, select a pot that is a couple of centimeters larger in size. The shape of the flowerpot should be such that there is room for the root ball and it can easily “slip” out of the flowerpot when needed (my experience is that the same plant in large flowerpot
there is no need to replant, the plant is not stressed: there is enough land, it is spacious and good).
3. In between waterings, let the soil dry out (not dry out).
When growing a plant in an apartment, you need to spray it every day (just not in the sun). Drying is very dangerous for a young plant. But even if it drops all its leaves, there is no need to throw it away, the leaves can grow back.
A moistened bag is placed on the plant, and the leaves will not take long to appear. The plant accepts not only water but also fertilizers well through its leaves.
If there is any doubt whether it is necessary to water it or not, it is better to spray the plant, adding not only fertilizers to the water, if necessary, but also pesticides (just not in the evening or in the sun). Watering, of course, depends on the growing and growing conditions. Lemon is ideally placed outdoors, where the plant enjoys dew, fog, and raindrops. The plant really likes it. And also for practice - sometimes the plant is overwatered and water flows over the edge of the pan; To prevent this from happening, you can water through a tray and pour into it as much water as the plant absorbs. If necessary, this procedure can be repeated after several waterings. Some gardeners thereby promote the growth of roots, which need to reach water (my experience is to water only with rain or melt water and always with a small amount of the fertilizer that the plant “requests”). 4. Vases. Clay containers allow air to pass through, but they dry out quickly.
Plastic holds moisture, but does not allow air to pass through. Wooden containers have both
positive properties , but they are short-lived. The roots of the plant breathe air that passes through the bottom of the flowerpot, so drainage of the flowerpot is required, and no water should remain in the pan after watering. The flowerpot is selected according to the size of the plant, the composition of the substrate, and the place where it will stand (the black flowerpot heats up in the sun). In a large plastic flowerpot, you will have to drill side holes so that the plant can breathe (my experience is that I did not drill holes in a large flowerpot; however, I periodically stick thin wooden sticks into the flowerpot). If you use a wooden flowerpot, you cannot treat it chemical compounds
Over time, the roots of the plant rest against the walls of the flowerpot. In wooden flowerpots, it is these thin roots that suffer from drying out - then the edges of the leaves dry out (this is often the reason for the drying out of the edges of the leaves). When growing citrus fruits, gardeners most often use square containers - they save space and provide a microclimate (nearby plants protect each other from overheating and moisture loss, and it is convenient to spray the leaves). In large flowerpots, the top layer of soil is periodically replaced. Any flowerpots must be protected from sunlight.
Place.
Choosing a place for citrus fruits is one of the important tasks. It is dangerous to place a plant on a windowsill in an apartment, both in winter and in summer. In winter, radiators are heated, and they are most often located under the windowsill. Cold air from the window cools the substrate and roots, which causes them to rot. Dry and warm room air dries out the leaves, and we water the plant more often. Where the plant stands, the batteries need to be covered with something or a humidifier installed. The flowerpot needs to be raised so that its bottom does not cool.
Lemon is a plant that loves a warm and fairly sunny place; loves the greenhouse very much. (My experience is that after spring frosts and until autumn frosts, lemons stand on open place- steps of the veranda). When the nights are cold in the fall or the temperature difference between day and night is large, I cover the plants with agro-film at night. They stand on the south side of the house, covered from the north by a wall.
Citrus fruits are very resistant, if you are accustomed to this from an early age, you just need to look at the leaves - they indicate the problems the plant has.
When a plant is taken outside after winter, it is necessary to gradually accustom it to open sunlight - out of habit, there may be burns on the leaves.
Light. Sufficient lighting intensity is one of the the most important conditions
Still, in winter, problems arise - you need to reduce the temperature and watering, otherwise the plant begins to grow unhealthy: due to lack of light, the branches become elongated and the leaves become smaller. This is a problem for apartments. The plant, although growing, may later shed its leaves and even die, having lost too much reserve energy. The only way out is to find a balance between watering, air humidity, temperature and lighting. This is when additional lighting may be needed. By the way, direct lighting is not necessary for citrus fruits; they do well in diffused bright light, but they cannot tolerate long shadows.
In the summer, when the plants are standing outside, at noon sometimes you have to cover them and create temporary shade from the intense rays of the sun.
Temperature.
Beginning amateur citrus growers often imagine that in their homeland citrus fruits grow in very warm conditions that we cannot create. It's true - citrus fruits love warmth in our climatic conditions everyone gets caught Sunbeam
. After all, on native plantations the average annual temperature is 16-18 degrees, the average fruit ripening temperature is 9-15 degrees. In places of natural cultivation, the average temperature of the coldest month is 7-14 degrees. So what temperature is acceptable in our conditions? Citrus fruits are hardy; in the absence of flowers or fruits, they can remain in sub-zero temperature , as well as up to 50 degrees of heat (this can happen in a greenhouse or on a windowsill). This, of course, slows down plant development , and with longer exposure it can destroy them. Just as a difference in temperature of irrigation water and substrate of 8 degrees can put a plant in a state of shock, so can a quick transfer of a plant from a dark place to bright light
- from the house under direct rays of the sun - it can destroy the plant.
Temperature influence:
Vegetation and fruit growing: 22-24 degrees;
- Flowering: 14-16 degrees;
- Setting fruit flowers: 22-24 degrees
- The ovaries fall off at a temperature of 30 degrees;
- Fruit ripening: 14-18 degrees;
- Seed germination: 20-25 degrees;
- Wintering: 5-10 degrees;
- Active spring growth: 12 degrees;
- Growth stops below 12 degrees and above 38 degrees;
- The water temperature for watering and spraying citrus fruits should be 1-2 degrees higher than the substrate temperature (if the water is 8 degrees warmer or colder than the substrate, the plant will get stressed);
- The air temperature should be 1-3 degrees higher than that of the substrate.
Transpiration is the evaporation of moisture by a plant through its leaves; 98% of the water passing through a plant is lost to transpiration. This is of great importance when growing citrus fruits. The leaves of the plant must be clean, free of dust, without spraying with leaf shine, etc. At high temperatures and wind, the intensity of moisture evaporation increases 6 times compared to normal weather. Sometimes, it would seem that all conditions have been created for the plant, but it begins to shed its leaves. One of the reasons is a failure in the balance of fluid passage in the plant.
Air humidity at 22-24 degrees: 60-70%;
Air humidity in winter: 40-50%.
The water should be soft, without chlorine. Ideally, soft, fresh rainwater (it contains air, is slightly acidic, pH 6-6.5). Clean rainwater collected 15 minutes after the start of rain.
Some tips for growing citrus fruits in an apartment.
Many examples show that growing citrus fruits indoors is quite possible.
Of course, they need to pay more attention, especially in winter. All problems of citrus fruits when grown in apartment conditions increase significantly, but citrus fruits tend to adapt.
You can grow citrus fruits in an apartment:
Whole year;
- take it out into the air;
- if you find a place for wintering (about 10 degrees). Positive side
- plants are less prone to fungal diseases, because fungi do not like dry air, unless we ourselves bring these diseases home from somewhere.
In apartments, the temperature is too high (sometimes the same day and night), low humidity - this is also harmful for humans. When caring for plants, it is advisable to bring the air humidity to 60%; this is beneficial for plants and humans.
All citrus fruits require a winter rest at low temperatures. In an apartment, plants enter a dormant period due to a lack of light intensity, which can kill the plants. Wintering takes place in a cool place (10 degrees) with minimal watering, because dormant roots do not accept moisture and will begin to rot. The leaves are sometimes sprayed. Wintering conditions depend on the type of citrus fruit. Citrus fruits can be stored for three months dark room - in the basement, garage, on staircase
In a cold room, when plants hibernate, watering and spraying stops, since at low temperatures they get enough moisture from the air.
Of course, fertilizer also stops. Plants should not be left to overwinter in areas with chemical fumes. When checking plants, they should not be allowed to dry out.
Warm winter.
If the plant overwinters in a warm room, place it in the brightest place and reduce watering. We shorten young immature branches, since in the spring they will be lost anyway, and in winter they will burden the plant.
We isolate the plant from the batteries; We organize everything in such a way that warm air currents do not reach the plant. We also protect the plant from cold air currents; a cold flowerpot and dry, warm leaves will lead to the death of the plant. IN winter time
We spray the plant through the leaves more intensively than we water.
The solution can be made slightly nutritious.
Plants spend more resources in winter than they can take. If they grow, they stretch out, because they want to get more light and moisture. We have to do additional lighting. In the spring we add moisture when we see that the plant is waking up; Little by little we begin to feed. Citrus fruits do not like the same temperature night and day. At night you need to either ventilate the room or turn down the heating. Still, these are unnatural conditions for citrus fruits -
heat wintering and dry air. In winter, the more dangerous thing is not the overdrying of the substrate, but the general decrease in plant fluids.
If the leaves
citrus fruits in winter
begin to dry out, there is no need to rush to water the plant, as the resting roots will begin to rot. All attention should be focused on air humidity, spraying and spraying water around the plant. You can place the plant in an aquarium or next to another plant (but not on another flowerpot); you can attach a plastic bag over the plant.
Planting and transplanting.
Transplantation is an inevitable process, after which we look at the plant as if it were a critically ill patient, for whom any stress can result in death.
Citrus fruits are replanted in early spring before the beginning of the growing season (during the dormant period).
Then the plant is brought into a lighter and warmer room, gradually increasing the heat and light. When the first signs of growth appear, increase the moisture and only then fertilize.
If the plant will overwinter in a warm place, you can replant it in the fall, if the soil is warm enough and rooting occurs before November. Summer replanting is possible only without damaging the root ball, between two periods of growth;
then keep the plant in the shade. In winter, citrus fruits can be replanted with the destruction of the earthen clod, since the roots are inactive at this time; this is unacceptable for plants without leaves at temperatures below 12 degrees. Plants are replanted if they were purchased in a store and if necessary (diseases, soil contamination, etc.) at any time, after replanting, taking all measures to save the plants. The rules for transplanting citrus fruits are the same as for other plants. If the roots are damaged, they are disinfected. Planting is done in a moist substrate, since the plant is watered only the next day. When transplanting, a certain amount must be left on the roots.
old land
, since bacteria live in it, facilitating the absorption of nutrients by the roots. If this is not possible, you need to take some soil from a flowerpot of another citrus.
The plant is planted at the same level, preventing the base of the neck from falling asleep.
After transplantation, the plant is shaded; There is no need to change other conditions to avoid stress. Citrus trees need quite a bit of attention; mistakes are not easy to correct. The critical period after transplantation is 6 months.
If the volume of roots decreases during replanting, take a smaller pot. Then we trim the crown in proportion to the roots. Pruning the crown does not harm even with minor damage to the roots.
If after replanting the plant has unwanted branches with leaves, let them grow, let the plant breathe - this will promote root growth.
The rules for pruning citrus fruits are similar to the rules for pruning fruit trees. There may be different purposes for pruning, so there will be differences in timing and methods. The main goal is to form a crown and keep the plant in good shape.
Pruning is carried out during the life of the plant to rejuvenate it, stimulate the growth of lower branches, thin out the crown, during transplantation, to obtain a bountiful harvest, etc. The opinion that pruning has
direct influence
for the harvest, erroneously; it only rejuvenates the plant.
Fertilizing and pruning plants have a close relationship. A well-fertilized plant requires less pruning and will produce a larger harvest. On the other hand, pruning can reduce the yield so as not to overload the plant. Excessive pruning slows down the growth of citrus fruits, so you need to find harmony between pruning and harvest. It also depends on the type of plant; Some citrus fruits have a tendency to thicken the crown.
You can consult a specialist about the specifics of pruning citrus fruits. Fertilizer.
Fertilizer helps the plant develop, but it is not a way to “pump up” the plant in hopes of a miraculous result. Fertilizer is selected carefully so as not to harm the plant; especially since the plant has a rest period, which may be disrupted.
General rules
fertilizers:
Do not fertilize dry soil;
- Take into account temperature, growing season;
- Frequent watering or rain washes away fertilizers.
The plant itself says what it needs. There are many rules for this that experienced flower growers know. (If you spray a plant with beer, it not only nourishes, but also shines. Some citrus pests really don’t like beer).
With constant care, plants usually feel quite good. After transplantation, citrus fruits do not need feeding for two months.
What does citrus do for your health? Its smell kills bacteria and viruses; have a positive effect on a person essential oils. Plants, not just citrus fruits, absorb harmful emissions emitted by environmental devices. Plants have a positive effect on the psyche and health of their loved ones.
So... If we want to propagate our citrus fruits:
We sow citrus seeds and then graft, propagate citrus fruits by cuttings.
If the plant does not bloom, you can graft a sprig of flowering citrus onto it;
the fruits will be like those of the mother plant. Types of citrus fruits are recognized by their leaves.
All about citrus fruits on the website website
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All about exotics on the website website When growing citrus fruits, along with the organization proper watering, lighting and fertilizing, the composition of the soil is of no small importance. Properly selected soil is the key to a generous harvest
exotic fruits
. For citrus sprouts, it must be nutritious, have excellent aeration and moisture absorption. Soil mixtures Almost all ready-made soil mixtures are declared as being made on the basis of peat. Peat soils have excellent aeration and water absorption and are an ideal environment for the development of the root system of citrus fruits. By cultivating citrus fruits in such a soil mixture for the first time, you will enjoy the riot of greenery and the intensive development of the bushes, but a few months after planting you will notice that they have lost their taste for life and are beginning to wither. The whole secret is that some unscrupulous manufacturers often take ordinary soil and generously season it with fertilizers, which are enough for a certain time. After this time, the crop experiences an acute shortage of microelements, its growth begins to slow down, and its color loses its former brightness. However, this is only relevant in relation to cheap fake soil mixtures, real peat soil- This
the best option
for citrus fruits. Chernozem Soils that are popular for growing standard soil crops in our area, such as chernozem, are extremely undesirable to use for cultivating young citrus fruits. Over time, the black soil begins to compact and become an insurmountable obstacle for the tender roots of citrus fruits, and therefore, without space for full formation,
root system
Citrus fruits feel comfortable in leaf humus. Even a “lazy” clementine will demonstrate real miracles of growth in such soil. Overseas guests feel great in a soil mixture consisting of one part deciduous substrate and one part black soil. Growing citrus fruits in such soil can even be done without additional fertilizers, which is especially important for those who want to get an environmentally friendly harvest.
If you have black soil, but there is no way to get light soil, then it is recommended to use vermiculite, coconut shavings or perlite as a leavening agent. On such soil substrates, citrus fruits will also grow and bear fruit well.
The most common mistakes
When growing exotic pets on mixed soils, you should not pour them into pots in layers; it is much more effective to thoroughly mix the components and only then use the substrate for planting. Different soils have different densities, aeration, and water absorption, and therefore dense layers can begin to sour, which will certainly lead to a deterioration in the growth of pets. Another common mistake made by newbie plant growers is adding soil to the pot containing the sprout, which is very different in composition from the soil in the pot, which can also cause uneven drying with all the ensuing consequences.
Growing citrus fruits is a real art, and therefore knowledge and sensitivity to the sprouts will allow you to get bountiful harvest fragrant fruits.
Lemon is subtropical plant, which has firmly entered into the life of Russia. Initially, lemons appeared on the territory East Asia, but as a result of geographic expansion, cultural plantings of this plant can be found all over the world. Surprisingly, it is almost impossible to find wild lemons.
An elegant evergreen tree can be easily grown from the seeds of store-bought fruit, which, coupled with the active air purification by phytoncides released by its leaves and the stress-relieving aroma of flowers, makes lemon an ideal houseplant.
Of course, you shouldn’t forget about a loading dose of vitamin C, which helps with flu and vitamin deficiency. It is not surprising that growing lemons at home is gaining popularity every year.
Description of lemon varieties and photographs of them
Centuries of selection have led to the emergence of a huge number of varieties.
One of the most popular varieties in Russia. An unpretentious tree that grows up to one and a half meters, bearing up to 15 fruits per year already from the third year of life. The average fruit weight is 200–300 g.
The photo shows the lemon variety Lunario
Also called four-season, the variety is considered a medium-growing variety that does not require special care. The fruits are small, no more than 170 grams, and have a mild taste. Due to its early flowering and minimal care requirements, it is very popular in Europe.
Rarely growing more than a meter, the variety nevertheless boasts large and juicy fruits. The disadvantage of the variety can be called early flowering and a small number of fruits - no more than 5 pieces. Clone Canadian variety is the Skierniewicki lemon. The difference is fewer seeds and better germination.
Popular tall variety(1.5 m) with pronounced spines and tasty large fruits. Flowering begins in the third year of life. The yield of the variety is up to 15 fruits per year.
The tree grows up to 1.3 m. Due to its high yield and ease of care, it is extremely popular in the Krasnodar region.
In the photo there is an anniversary lemon variety
The variety is considered one of the best for growing in an apartment, as it tolerates dry air well and does not require special procedures for the formation of a neat crown. Rarely grows more than one and a half meters and has good productivity. The fruits have a thick skin and a mild taste.
The variety, also called Chinese Dwarf, is a hybrid of lemon and orange, which explains its unusual taste. The plant is short (50-70 cm) with high yield. One of the most common varieties on sale, this hybrid, unfortunately, is weak and capricious to care for, requiring mandatory lighting in the autumn-winter period.
An exotic variety whose fruits are popular in making candied fruits. It grows up to one and a half meters, produces no more than 10 fruits per year.
Before planting, you need to decide on the location of the lemon.
The location of the lemon should be clearly determined before planting, since this plant does not tolerate changes very well, starting to shed its leaves. It is strictly forbidden to disturb the tree during flowering and fruit set, as this will negatively affect the yield.
Lighting
Lemon - light-loving plant, but it will easily tolerate a lack of lighting. For normal development, he only needs a couple of hours a day. Moreover, an excess of light leads to increased growth of the trunk, which instantly inhibits the onset of flowering and fruit set, so it is advisable to shade windows facing south with gauze or translucent film.
The absence of light will provoke increased acidity fruits and poor leaf growth, so windows facing north are absolutely not suitable for growing the plant. Experts consider windows on the west and east sides to be the most suitable for growing lemon in an apartment.
To form a neat, even crown, the pot should be rotated a couple of centimeters daily.
Optimal temperature for growing lemon at home
In spring and summer, the plant can be placed on balconies and terraces, carefully monitoring temperature changes. When autumn approaches, the plant should be removed indoors in advance, since with sudden changes in temperature, the lemon sheds its leaves and begins to ache.
- In winter, the temperature should be maintained within 15–18 C.
Watering and air humidity
Lemon is one of those plants that need more wet air around the crown than water-saturated soil. Therefore, the plant will gratefully welcome constant spraying both in hot summer and in winter, when due to the heating being on, the air in the room becomes dry, which provokes the development of spider mites. Placing the pot on a tray filled with wet gravel will also help increase humidity.
Since any citrus fruit loves moisture, but cannot tolerate stagnant water, you should water the lemon:
- in winter - once a week,
- in summer - generously twice a week.
Dry soil causes plant leaves to curl.
Primer for lemon is best purchased at a specialty store.
Soil for home grown Lemon juice is preferably neutral, containing enough mineral and organic substances.
- ready-made soil for citrus fruits;
- universal flower mixture;
- soil enriched with humus;
- a mixture of equal parts of turf and deciduous soil, with the addition of humus, charcoal and a small amount of calcined river sand.
Watering is very important for citrus fruits, so the soil should be fluffy and light so that the water does not stagnate. top layer, as this leads to rotting and loss of roots. It is important to remember about good drainage - the layer should be at least 2 centimeters, consisting of expanded clay or pieces of brick. The correct container also plays an important role - pots made of unwatered clay are ideal for lemons, allowing you to get rid of excess moisture. If soil rot cannot be avoided, all soil should be replaced.
Lemons are fertilized more often than most houseplants. In summer, it is advisable to fertilize once a week, but in other seasons to ensure continuity of fruiting - at least once a month.
The main thing when growing lemon indoors is to achieve dwarfism, since the branches of this plant grow very long and powerful. Uncontrolled development has an extremely undesirable effect on productivity, and is simply inconvenient due to the loss of usable area.
You can start pruning after the appearance of 6 leaves - this will help both reduce the volume of the crown and achieve greater strength of the entire plant. It is best to prune in the spring, before the flowering season begins. Branches are removed to 4 leaves.
The roots of the plant should also be trimmed when replanting, since if the root system develops abnormally, growth stops and the color of the foliage turns pale.
Lemon transplantation at home
The young tree must be replanted annually, since in the first few years of its life the roots completely envelop the earthen ball. When transplanting, you need to very carefully handle the lump, since the young roots are very vulnerable. From the fifth year of life, lemons are replanted every three years, in early spring.
Lemon propagates by cuttings, seeds, layering and grafting
There are several classical methods propagation of indoor lemons: seeds, cuttings, layering.
Reproduction by layering and grafting
It is practically not used at home due to its high complexity and unproductivity, since the first flowering of such seedlings usually occurs at 4-5 years of age.
Lemon cuttings
- cutting a semi-lignified cutting about 10 cm long and 5 mm thick from a high-yield plant. with 2–3 viable buds (cut lines should pass under the bud from below, and above the bud from above);
- treating the cuttings with a root growth stimulator;
- placing the cuttings in water or a moistened soil mixture to form roots to a depth of 2–3 cm;
- to ensure constant humidity, the cutting must be covered with polyethylene;
- after two weeks, the cuttings that have taken root should be carefully transferred to a small pot and placed in a place with diffused light with a constant temperature of at least 20 C;
- due to the small development of the root system at this stage, the plant must be sprayed daily;
- final rooting is achieved after a couple of months; only after reaching this period can the lemon be moved to permanent place residence.
Many people grow lemons from seeds; this is the easiest way.
Growing lemon from seed attracts many novice gardeners due to the ease of obtaining planting material. To do this, select a ripe lemon fruit of an even yellow color, without dents or darkening.
Stages of growing lemon from seeds:
- soil preparation (mixture flower soil and peat in small long pots with drainage), since the seeds must be planted immediately after being removed from the fruit;
- selection of well-formed, undamaged seeds (it is optimal to plant seeds of several fruits at the same time in order to subsequently select the most viable ones);
- planting seeds to a depth of 1 centimeter at a distance of 5 cm from each other and 3 cm from the walls;
- to ensure constant humidity, the pots must be covered with polyethylene until shoots emerge and placed in a place with a constant temperature of at least 20 C;
- after a couple of weeks, you should select the strongest shoots and grow them, covering them with jars to create a microclimate;
- seedlings should be placed in a well-lit place and ventilated once a day;
- after the first pair of true leaves appear, the best shoots should be planted in separate containers;
- after reaching a height of 20 centimeters, it should be transplanted into a larger container.
lemon blossom
Owners of citrus fruits are looking forward to the flowering time of their favorites. Lemon flowers are very fragrant, but if you want to get a good harvest, gardeners should follow three rules:
- do not move or disturb the lemon during flowering;
- pollinate the plant yourself, transferring pollen to the stamens with a cotton swab;
- remove excess flowers in time.
The latter is necessary so that the plant does not become depleted. Good harvest is possible in the first year of flowering of the plant only on the condition that up to half of all buds are removed, and no more than 4 are selected from the formed ovaries on different branches. It is optimal if there are at least 10–15 leaves per fruit.
Diseases and pests of lemon
In the photo there is gommosis on a lemon
Unpretentious in care, lemon is nevertheless susceptible to a number of diseases.
Infectious diseases
Gommoz- a disease in which the bark at the bottom of the trunk loses its elasticity and becomes covered with cracks, through which a dark sticky liquid begins to ooze. Over time, the damaged areas begin to rot and the plant quickly withers. Treatment consists of cleaning damaged tissues, treating them copper sulfate and immediate cleaning of the roots, followed by replanting in a new pot with clean soil. In a quarter of cases, plants still die after treatment.
Root rot- a disease leading to massive damage to roots. Often the first symptom is sudden leaf drop. Treatment consists of a thorough examination and removal of damaged roots, treatment with a growth and rooting stimulator, and a complete change of soil. The plant requires good lighting and cleaning of the leaves. wet wipes. Watering will have to be kept to a minimum for some time.
Viral diseases
Leaf mosaic is the most dangerous for lemon
Tristeza- death of the bark on the trunk. It cannot be treated, but does not damage lemon hybrids.
Sheet mosaic- the appearance of patterns on the foliage. It cannot be treated and is not dangerous for the plant.
Cancer- the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves and the rapid death of the plant. It cannot be treated, it is contagious.
Pests
In addition to diseases, lemons are also susceptible to attacks by insects, such as spider mite, scale insects and aphids. Symptoms of pests include curled leaves and small but abundant cobwebs. Barely works well against these insects warm shower and spraying leaves in hot weather.
At good care and attentiveness of the owners indoor lemon lives for a very long time, up to 40–45 years. Mature plants can reach three meters in height (at garden plot) and achieve a yield of several hundred fruits.
Many more useful information You will learn from the video, if you have any questions, ask.
