The principle of constructing a high-quality staircase to the second floor in a bathhouse with your own hands. Wooden stairs for a bath: through fire, water and copper pipes Wooden stairs in a small bath space

The bathhouse is a place of relaxation that is loved by many. The construction of such a structure has become very popular both in private homes and for organizing a small but very profitable business.


As a rule, the building is made small, one-story, without additional rooms. However, those who want a bathhouse to not only take a steam bath, but also sit during breaks with friends or, if necessary, stay overnight, equip it with rest rooms, special rooms for storing necessary attributes, etc. In such cases, more often In total, the area for construction is very limited and it is necessary to construct a building of several floors (more than two are extremely rare). Then, among other things, the building requires the design and installation of stairs.


The process of designing a staircase for a bath

In the case of bath stairs, just like any other, it is important to determine suitable type designs. Not any of them will be able to satisfy both the needs for use and comply with safety regulations in such a room.

The main stages of selecting a ladder for a bath:

  1. Decide on the purpose. The structure can be used to access the second floor or to reach shelves in the steam room. In the second case, everything is simple - you can limit yourself to a small ladder, the main thing is that it is not slippery and not too rough, which will prevent you from falling or getting hurt.
  2. In the case of stairs to access the second floor, it is very important to understand the purpose and frequency of use. If it is used simply as an attic space, then the design will be quite simple and without particularly strict requirements.
  3. Select material for the stairs.


These three stages contain the answer to the question of which staircase is best to use in a bathhouse.

Requirements for stairs to the second floor of the bathhouse

To access the attic, which will be used as a rest room, more strict requirements than in a simple attic. In this case, the design must ensure safe ascent and descent. Bear in mind that guests often don’t mind relaxing in a bathhouse while drinking alcohol, and this is not entirely compatible with dangerous stairs. The optimal solution it will be classic marching staircase, performed in compliance with all norms and requirements. Despite its convenience, there is not always room for it in the space of the house, not to mention the bathhouse, where there is much less space.


Often, in the case of this room, it will be most organic and reasonable to install a staircase " duck step", as in the photo. It belongs to the marching type of structures, with increased steepness. However, due to unique design An angle greater than 45° is not so noticeable, since the location of the steps allows you to stand on them with your full foot and maintain balance. It will take up much less space than the classic one.


In terms of saving space, spiral staircases are also often in demand. However, security suffers in this case, and it is better to consider other options before installation.

If you plan to rarely go up to the second floor, and its use ends in storing unnecessary things, then you can completely get by with attic types of stairs, for example, retractable or folding ones. For the purposes described, such a ladder will be sufficient.

Selection of material

After all the issues with the room and the type of suitable staircase have been resolved, you should pay attention to what it is best to make it from. In the case of baths, additional requirements are put forward for the material from which the structure is made:

Many people are interested in how to make a staircase to the second floor on their own. There is nothing complicated about making a wooden staircase with your own hands. Making a flight of stairs from metal or concrete is quite difficult; working with wood is much easier and more pleasant. The staircase must be beautiful, strong, safe and durable, so you need to try and do everything right.

Then you need to find out how much the material costs. If possible, you can order ready-made elements for the staircase from the manufacturer - steps, balusters, risers. This will cost more, but you can skip the manufacturing process and start installation right away. If you decide to make all the elements yourself, then you need to purchase the following materials:

  • timber for steps 4-4.5 cm thick;
  • boards (dimensions depending on the calculations performed);
  • beams for treads and risers from 3 to 4 cm;
  • timber for stringers 5X2.5cm;
  • stainless steel screws;
  • handrails, balusters and railings (it is better to purchase ready-made ones, without professional tool they are difficult to make yourself).

You need to prepare the following tools:

  • simple pencil;
  • meter;
  • square;
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw.

Manufacturing process

Using pre-prepared templates, you need to cut out all the elements. Everything must be made in top level so that the quality is not questioned. First the side bases are made. To do this, you need to measure the angle of contact with the floor and carefully draw a line horizontally. They start from this line further and measure the width and height of each step to the very top. The same is done with the other stringer. At the bottom, the stringers are fixed using a support beam, and on the ceiling they are inserted into pre-cut gaps. Periodically check the evenness and horizontality of the structure. If you allow inaccuracy, this will create additional inconvenience in the future, and the quality of the staircase will suffer.

Next, the risers are cut out and nailed to the already installed base. The risers should be level, without distortions or cracks. The staircase can be made without risers, so it looks lighter and weightless, but not everyone likes this option. Now it's time for the steps. It must be remembered that the treads must have rounded edges. Steps are often made from one solid board or from two narrower ones. The treads are fixed with nails and screws.

According to safety rules, if there are children in the house, using stairs without railings is not allowed. Therefore, railings are not only decorative, but also safety. Moreover, if there are small children in the house, there should be two balusters for each step.

If it is not possible to purchase ready-made balusters and railings, you can make them yourself from bars. To ensure that homemade balusters stand firmly, you can cut grooves in the steps. After installing the balusters, a handrail made of timber is fixed on top. The railings do not have to be wooden. The combination of wood looks original flight of stairs with forged or metal railings. Sometimes they even order tempered glass railings, although this is difficult to call practical solution. You can make a staircase without railings, but this is quite dangerous.

From time immemorial, the bathhouse was a very specific structure, the materials of which had special requirements. In the old days, bathhouse buildings were very often located on the edge of vegetable gardens near the river, in swampy low-lying areas, which, moreover, were flooded every spring. Currently, the situation has changed dramatically.

In villages, bathhouses have become an indispensable attribute of household farming, and in cities, the arrangement of buildings occurs in quite normal conditions. But there are elements in the bath interior that are still fully experienced Negative influence sudden temperature changes, high humidity and severe mechanical stress.

And one of these elements is a wooden staircase for a bathhouse. It's worth taking a closer look at it.

Classic Russian bathhouse, as well as Finnish sauna, has always been a kind of embodiment of the triumph of wood. The frame itself, the shelves, the piping of the steam room and dressing room, the bath utensils - everything was made of wood. An exception for well-known reasons was the stove and chimney, if the bathhouse was heated white.

Turkish and Roman baths have traditionally been a stronghold of stone, and very often not just savage stone, but noble marble and slightly less noble granite.

Modern mass city baths, primarily commercial ones, are as utilitarian and pragmatic as possible in their design. In them, metal and artificial stone-concrete often coexist quite normally as separate structural elements.

If the owner is richer and does not lack aesthetic taste, then the banal black metal is replaced by much more presentable stainless steel.

Let us, when choosing a material for a future bath staircase, consider all the pros and cons, after weighing which, we must give unconditional preference to wood.

A lot about the advantages

What we have in positive balance:

  • Stairs to a wooden bathhouse give an indescribable feeling of general comfort and coziness, an immutable feeling of fulfilling the canonical rules that are so important in the bathhouse tradition.

  • Wood, in the vast majority of standard cases, is very environmentally friendly material. It is not worth clarifying how important this is in an environment of elevated temperatures and humidity.
  • Wood has good positive indicators in terms of heat capacity and overall thermal conductivity. Keeps it long enough comfortable temperature upon contact with open areas body, in particular the feet.
  • Wooden stairs for baths fit perfectly into the overall outline of the bath interior, which is mostly wooden, and create a feeling of a holistic and complete image.
  • Working with wood is more comfortable, less labor-intensive and costs less general- both directly during manufacturing and during subsequent installation.
  • Making stair systems with your own hands requires the use of much less practical skills and abilities than when carrying out a comparable amount of work, say, in stone processing.
  • Wooden structures are much lighter than stone ones, and in some cases lighter than metal ones, with disproportionately more flexible and wide possibilities for installation.

The installation and assembly of the structure itself requires a small nomenclature hand tools. Assembly and installation of a comparable structure from of stainless steel will require either time-consuming application bolted connection, or costly in financially method of electric arc welding of metal in a protective inert gas environment.

A little about the disadvantages

But for the sake of objectivity, it is worth considering the negative aspects when choosing a tree as the basis for construction or acquisition finished stairs to the bathhouse:

  • Wood is a flammable material. Considering the increased fire danger baths, this argument should not be at the bottom of the selection criteria.

  • Wood has less durability compared to stone and stainless steel products.
  • In the case of using a wooden staircase in a bathhouse directly in the area high temperatures and extreme humidity, the durability criterion becomes critical and requires the use of special types of wood.

  • The use of highly stable special types of wood is associated with quite serious financial expenses.

One of the ways to increase the durability of ordinary wood is its processing. protective compounds. Such compositions with high protective qualities, as a rule, have restrictions on use in rooms such as bathhouses.

In this case, the only option left is to use imported, primarily Finnish, mixtures based on modified linseed oil, which can also cause serious damage to the budget.

Oak is the head of everything: or which wood is preferable

So, if a conscious and final choice is made in favor of wood, then it is worth taking a closer look at the types and varieties of wood raw materials that will be used in the manufacture of stairs for wooden baths.

One of the most serious enemies of a tree is high humidity. It is moisture that becomes a catalyst for the onset of destructive processes and triggers the mechanism of fungal infection.

As is known, there is whole line tree species that are sufficiently resistant to the harmful effects of water. Their list is small, but relevant. This is ash, white acacia, larch, teak.

In the European part of the country, oak and ash are relatively available; beyond the Urals there are no particular problems with purchasing larch; in the South, you can consider purchasing acacia material.

Any interfloor staircase in the house - a compromise between safety, convenience and space saving. Even in a fairly spacious room this is not easy, and finding a place for a ladder in a bathhouse is much more difficult. The premises are usually small, which means you have to solve a problem with many unknowns. Therefore, the stairs in the bathhouse require a balanced approach.

Typically, several steps are required and there are no strict restrictions due to lack of space. Therefore, we can do as GOST advises:

Since baths are most often built of wood, stairs are usually made of the same material. You need to choose species that are resistant to climatic influences. Larch is best; pine will work well. Be sure to treat all components with antifungal and protective impregnations (for example,).

Foundations for entrance stairs to the bathhouse

The foundation for stairs is usually made of piles or columns. The fastest and cheapest to manufacture is . Even faster, but more expensive to install screw piles, but their cost is higher. All work on the construction of the underground part of the porch occurs after the foundation of the building has settled.

If the soil is heaving (clay or loam), the piles should be buried below the freezing level of the soil. It is advisable to make an expansion in the lower part (TISE piles), then there will be a guarantee that the porch will not be pushed out during winter heaving.


Entrance staircase If necessary, you can make a shallow laying. Then they use columns rather than piles. Their depth is at least 40 cm below the fertile layer. But then during heaving the stairs will rise. To prevent it from blocking the doors, you will need a high threshold.

If you don’t want to make a threshold, you can make the upper platform attached to the wall of the house. To do this, during construction, beams are laid on which the upper platform will be assembled.


Shallow entrance wooden staircase (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

In this case, a transverse support for a stringer or bowstring is nailed to the beams mounted in the wall. The same beam is made on “bulls” - shallow support posts. In this case, it turns out that the stairs can be skewed, but the upper platform will remain in place.

Stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor

If the second floor of the bathhouse is used seasonally—no one will live there in winter—it makes sense to move the lift out of the room—to the veranda or an extension. This way, firstly, you will save space in the bathhouse itself, and secondly, you will not have to cool through the hatch to the second floor of the room.


Planning an "L"-shaped staircase

If the second floor will be used in cold weather, you will have to fit the structure. In this case, you will have to consider many factors:

  • You need to position the staircase so that it not only fits well on the first floor, but also on the second floor, when you go up, you don’t rest your head on the sloping ceiling: often in bathhouses they don’t build a full second floor, but make an attic with the help of a sloping roof or kick it out, as they say, 1.5 floors, and then comes the roof.
  • It is advisable to make the exit on the second floor near one of the walls: this way it is “eaten up” less area. It is very inconvenient to have a hole in the middle of the room: organizing the space normally is problematic.
  • Select the parameters of the stairs so that it is both convenient and safe.

Types of wooden stairs

The staircase in the bathhouse to the second floor can have straight or curved flights. It will not be possible to calculate and build curved stairs on your own, without experience: it is too difficult. That’s why basically everything is done by straightforward people.

When choosing a model with straight flights, it is not necessary that there be one flight (these are single-flight stairs) - along the wall. You can design it in the form of the letter “G” or “P”. The straight sections are connected by platforms or winder - turning - steps.


Different types stairs to the second floor (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

Please note that marches can be closed or open. Closed flights have risers - parts that close the gap between two steps. A turn in the staircase can be made with a rectangular landing (the option on the far left in the picture) or with winder (triangular) steps (there are two options in the picture).


This is a staircase with a closed flight - with risers

In one place it is better not to make many winder steps, as in the picture in the center - you will have to climb “along the wall,” that is, where the steps are wider. The most optimal number of them is three to four. But it is not always possible to fit this option into the existing conditions and then you have to make a compromise.

U-shaped staircases to the second floor are usually poorly built into small rooms: when designing, shafts are specially left for them or space is provided. It is much easier in this regard with the placement of “L”-shaped ones.


L-shaped stairs It’s easier to fit into small rooms in the bathhouse. The marches here are open - there are no risers

The staircase in the bathhouse to the 2nd floor in the shape of the letter “L” can, as in the photo above, run along two walls, or it can adjoin only one of them.

A little about steps, sizes and terms

We have already talked about what winder steps are - they are triangular or trapezoidal in shape turning steps. But these are not all the terms. To calculate the stairs for the bathhouse yourself, you need to know some standards, terms and tolerances. With the height and width of the steps: this is already clear. But there is such a thing as a lifting step. This is essentially the height of the step, but must take into account the thickness of the material. Since the materials may be different, the lifting step may vary significantly.

The following step sizes are considered the best: width about 30 cm, step up 15-16 cm. But these are average figures. For people of average height with average long legs. And these parameters, as you know, are different for everyone. If you are planning for yourself, you can calculate based on what is most convenient for you and your family members.

The width of the step is determined by the length of the foot. It is more convenient when the entire foot rests on the step, and not just part of it.


But this, unfortunately, is not always possible. If the reduction is insignificant and you will not have to use the stairs very often, as in a bathhouse, for example, then they go to reduce the width of the steps. If the bathhouse is residential, or used as a guest house, you can find a way out of the situation by making a “duck step” staircase. It is distinguished by steps of unequal width: on one side there is a cutout. In this case, you have to start the descent or ascent from a certain leg. Look at the photo of such a staircase and everything will become clear.


You can make a “goose step” staircase to the bathhouse. It has figured steps. You have to climb it with a certain foot in order to get to the wide part

When going up and down these steps, you are forced to change your gait. That's why this name arose. But at the same time, it allows you to make a very, very steep climb, and without any particular threat to safety.

How to calculate the stairs to the bathhouse

When calculating, they do not use the height of the room, but the distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second. To do this, add the thickness of the ceiling to the height of the ceiling and finishing materials floor of the second floor. This is the value needed in the calculation.

The number of steps is found simply: the found distance from floor to floor is divided by the recommended lifting step - 15-16 cm. The resulting figure is rounded (up or down, see for yourself). For example, the distance from floor to floor is 280 cm. Divide by 15 cm, we get 18.6, round up, we get that our staircase should have 19 steps.

Now let’s determine what the lifting step will be: divide 280 cm into 19 steps. The result will be 147 cm. Not enough. If there are no children or elderly people in the family, you can consider the option of installing 18 steps. In this case, the lifting height will be 155 cm. This value fits into the recommendations. This will be more comfortable for a person of average height.

Another point that requires checking: the size of the opening for the stairs on the second floor. To avoid hitting your head on the opening when descending, the distance from the step below to the opening must be 200 cm (minimum 190 cm).

To avoid hitting your head when descending, check the distance from the step to the edge of the cutout. This, by the way, is an example of a one-flight staircase. But there is a very steep ascent here, apparently neither small children nor elderly people go to the bathhouse

If the resulting height is less than 190 cm, there are two options: increase the size of the passage through the ceilings (make it longer). If this is not possible, increase the ascent step, making the stairs steeper. But it cannot be made larger than 210 mm. The solution is to increase the clearance a little and at the same time make the rise a little higher.

The finished parameters of the stage must be checked using the convenience formula. If you add the lifting step multiplied by 2 and the width of the step, the result should be in the range from 600 to 650 mm. So, if the lifting step is 155 mm and the step width is 300 mm, we get 155 mm * 2 + 300 mm = 610 mm. We're getting back to normal. If not, an adjustment is needed.

The minimum width of the stairs to the bathhouse is 80 cm, the optimal width is 100 cm. Plan somewhere in this area.

Don't forget that everything wooden surfaces It is advisable to treat it with protective impregnations in the bath. How and what, read.

How to make a ladder in a bathhouse yourself

In addition to the parameters of the steps, you also need to decide how exactly to build the staircase itself. Wooden stairs made on bowstrings or stringers. The string is the boards between which the steps are attached. They have smooth edges, and the steps are attached precisely between them, using corners and bars. Special grooves are also cut into them.


Methods for attaching steps to the strings of a ladder (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

The stringer is distinguished by the fact that it has a sawtooth profile. The steps are laid on the molded ledge.


How to make a stringer for the stairs to the bathhouse (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

It is easier to make a ladder on bowstrings: a much lower level of carpentry skill is required. This is especially true for mortise steps or when they are mounted on corners. The skills required here are generally minimal.


How to build a staircase to a bathhouse on a bowstring (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

How to build a staircase to a bathhouse on a string: it all starts with installing a string and support pillars, if any. support pillar- usually timber square section at least 150*150 cm. The bowstrings and steps use boards with a thickness of at least 4-5 cm. They are needed good quality without knots or cracks. Bowstrings are attached to the wall using long nails or wood screws.

Then steps are installed on the corners or support bars. If there finished project, it must have a complete layout of the dimensions of each step. If there is no project, difficult places You can first make patterns from cardboard, then outline them on wood and cut them out accurately. This will definitely be needed with winder steps(rotary). All others should be standard sizes.

If you still want to make a staircase on stringers, watch the video. Everything is told very sensibly.

If the design of a private bathhouse provides for the presence of a full second floor or attic space, in this case you will need to install a ladder.

This design is relevant if the bathhouse is located in a residential building or an extension. Taking into account the features and specifics of the structure, the staircase to the bathhouse must have a practical design and be made of reliable and durable materials.

Types of bath stairs

Bath stairs can be classified according to several parameters. By type of construction they are:

  • Single march. The most affordable and practical option, requiring sufficient space for installation.
  • L-shaped. They are designed for installation along walls and are suitable for large buildings.
  • U-shaped. They require preliminary design and installation of the shaft.
  • Screw. Designs with installation angles ranging from 260 to 360 degrees. Installation of elements is carried out counterclockwise.
  • Moths (samba). Compact products with a small number of elements, suitable for small buildings.

According to the method of arrangement of the structure there are:

  • external - entrance from the street (for use in the summer);
  • internal - entrance from any functional room(for use all year round);
  • transitional - from a separate building or extension.

The material of manufacture is no less important when choosing a bath staircase. It can be made from:

  • wood;
  • artificial or natural stone;
  • metal;
  • concrete.

The most popular is a wooden staircase structure with curved and straight flights.

The marches have a closed and open configuration. Closed flight stairs are provided with special risers - elements that close the existing gap between the individual steps.

If the staircase has a turn, it is equipped with a geometric-shaped platform (square or rectangular) or triangular steps.

Staircase to enter the bathhouse

The entrance staircase for saunas and baths is a marching straight or rotating design. It is made from a similar material that is used to build a bathhouse.

Entrance stairs require the preliminary construction of a pile or columnar foundation. The most practical and affordable option - pile foundation on bored piles. Work on arranging the foundation is carried out after the base of the bathhouse has settled.

  • The foundation is laid deep. Bored or screw piles are installed below the soil freezing level to prevent deformation of the porch.
  • The foundation is shallow. Concrete pillars are installed to a depth of up to 55 cm, and the finished platform is fixed to the bathhouse structure with beams and crossbars.

If there is an entrance to the second floor from the street, the same design requirements are met:

  • the angle of inclination of the stairs is up to 50 degrees;
  • tread width - from 30 to 36 cm;
  • riser height - from 16 to 21 cm;
  • the length of the steps is from 75 to 100 cm.

The platform is fixed using bowstrings or stringers. To mounted in wall structures a crossbar is attached to the beams under a stringer or bowstring.

Interfloor staircase in the bathhouse

For quick access to the attic, attic or second floor, a separate staircase is provided in the bathhouse.

When choosing and installing a structure, the following factors should be taken into account:

  • The staircase to the second floor must provide reliable ascent and descent from the lower floor to the upper one. The right decision there will be a traditional staircase made of marches of a suitable design.
  • To save space, the exit from the stairs is made along a free wall.
  • If the rooms on the second floor are rarely used, then it is more profitable to install attic ladders of a retractable or folding design.
  • Rotary and spiral staircase in a bathhouse on the second floor it is less practical and functional for constant use, but in a small building it will save money usable area. In this case, the design can have various modifications, the main thing is to take into account the dimensions of the bath.

Calculation of the size of the stairs

The basic calculations take into account the distance between the floor levels of the first and second floors. The height of the ceiling and the thickness of the materials used to finish the floor on the upper floor are added to the ceiling height.

Determining the number of steps: the distance between the floors of the first and second floors is divided by standard height rise - 16 cm. The resulting value is rounded.

Example: the distance between the floors is 285 cm, the lifting height is 16 cm. Total: 285 / 16 = 17.8 (18) cm. Finished design should consist of 18 steps.

Determination of the lifting step: 285 / 18 = 15.8 cm. This is an acceptable value for a person of average and above average height.

The resulting dimensions of the steps for the stairs are checked using the following formula: lifting step × 2 + step width.

Example: step - 158 mm, step width - 320 mm. Total: 158 mm × 2 + 320 mm = 636 mm. The value corresponds to the norm in the range from 590 to 655 mm.

Otherwise, it is necessary to correct the sizes of individual elements.

Minimum allowed width staircase design- 0.8 m, standard - 1 m.

After all the calculations have been made and the finished dimensions of the structure have been obtained, you can select materials, prepare tools and begin self-production stairs.

Manufacturing technology for bath stairs on stringers

Installation of steps on stringers is carried out on a special ledge wooden profile, therefore requiring minimal carpentry skills. Work on assembling the structure is carried out as follows:

  1. A template is prepared from cardboard for the future step of the required size and slope.
  2. Stringers are made of dense wood.
  3. To connect the stringers with the ceiling, notches and markings for the step template are applied along the edges.
  4. Protrusions are made according to the markings and carefully cleaned with a grinding tool.
  5. An additional recess is made for fixation to the beam, and metal supports are installed.
  6. The beam is fixed using anchors strictly along the line of the lowest step.
  7. Installation of stringers at an angle, additional fixation with anchors.
  8. Production of steps from boards with a thickness of 3.5 cm, risers - from 2.5 cm. Careful grinding of blanks.
  9. The lower part of the stringer is treated with wood glue to fix the risers.
  10. Additionally, each part is fixed with self-tapping screws, and steps are mounted.
  11. Finally, railings are installed decorative elements. The handrails are fixed in compliance with the general slope of the stairs.

Technology for assembling a bath staircase on bowstrings

Assembling a staircase structure with your own hands using bowstrings is done as follows:

  1. Conducted necessary measurements to determine the dimensions of the stairs and its individual elements.
  2. Brass stair gauges are installed in a carpenter's square. The line of the riser and steps is drawn.
  3. With the help of a calibrator and marked lines, the contour of the future bowstring for each step is marked.
  4. The calibrator is removed after drawing the final element. Edge cuts are made using a circular saw.
  5. The middle is cut out hand saw, the finished part is placed on the material with the outline indicated.
  6. Three bowstrings are made - middle and edge.
  7. The height of the lower riser should be less than the thickness of one step.
  8. A sheet of plywood is mounted at the junction of the platform with all the steps.
  9. The places where the bowstrings are fixed to the plywood are marked.
  10. Risers of the same size are made and mounted to the strings with screws.
  11. Next, the steps are fixed to the structure with glue and screws.
  12. A stand is installed under the railing, respecting the inclination of the stairs. Handrails are mounted to the structure using nails.
  13. The finished staircase is cleaned of dust and varnished.

Below are diagrams to help with installation.

It is important to make the stairs as safe as possible, since in conditions high humidity and sudden changes in temperature, you can slip when going up or down. And, of course, you should not skimp on protective solutions, otherwise the structure will not last long.

The bath staircase is stylish and practical design, which should be reliable, durable and at the same time harmoniously combined with any interior style of the premises.



 
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